FOOT PEDAL SERIES #3: Upgrading Your Vintage Sewing Machine With An Electronic Foot Pedal/Controller

[@shieldsvalley]

It would have helped me a lot if you had shown the actual wiring up of the electronic pedal while you had it opened up, because that is what I need. Maybe I can find a video of someone doing that.

[@jss3018]

The mystery of foot pedal operation is now gone. Thanks. I've learned a lot.

[@ecay]

I've done some research in sewing machine repair centers and Tulsa Oklahoma has several of where I live in Pryor. There are none. There are none in around me. Tulsa is the closest place so I've kind of considering learning to do this to get the two machines I need running, running to kind of learn, pick up some others to kind of learn and maybe start doing some repair in the local area. I don't know how busy I'll be but I should be enough to stay busy kind of and maybe pick up some vintage machines and get them serviced. And restored and put them up for sale just kind of a thought that I've got and it's videos like this channels like this. That's kind of making me think that direction. I'm trying to be realistic. There's not going to be that much business, but if there's a little bit it'll be something to keep you busy

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Wonderful to hear about your plans. Let us know how you make out!

[@ecay]

I had no idea that there was so much replacement parts for the vintage sewing machines. I started this venture of learning all of this because I inherited three sewing machines a Kenmore 158 which runs great. I Kenmore 385 which today got broke free and a newer singer classic. That's frozen and has some rest on it. The 385 and the classic was my mother's classic was her last sewing machine. She purchased just a few weeks before she passed away with it's never been used. The Kenmore 158 was my grandmother's. But I'm finding out that there is lots of parts to keep these things running

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Yes, there are a surprising number of both vintage/used parts as well as reproduction parts for some models. The more popular the brand was, (such as Singer and Kenmore), the more parts you will come across.

[@pizzabil]

I have used that pedal as a knee operated pedal for a Necchi BF. It works great. I popped the top off, drilled two holes and secured to the side of the cabinet with 2 screws.

[@barbaralevel7225]

Thanks for information. I just placed an order from them for accessories for 201-2. Reasonable rates.

[@stopthephilosophicalzombie9017]

I wish there was a way to put the electronic board in the body of the old style foot pedals, one because it's keeps the appearance for vintage machines and two because sometimes the action/feel on those pedals is superior to the cheap plastic housing on these electronic foot pedals.

[@sandy-rr1by]

wish i had found this video beforegetting sew senter to order one for 70s kenmore. he got the rheostat one. gets hot to my bare foot. would have preferred the plastic updated version. very good explanation process you did, thanks!

[@amalias8888]

Sew very helpful. I need to change my rheostat to something else that will allow me to sew slowly. We need a link to that one...there are so many available...it's confusing.

[@NordicDan]

Looks like my old Singer 247 is getting a new pedal..... To add something to your comments about how sensitive these are to rough handling, while you wouldn't want to swing them by the cord and slam them into walls and trees or make a habit of dropping them, the small number of components on the board and the fact that they're a (for the most part; taking into account the moving button) solid state setup, makes them impressively rugged. Me being who I am, I would still inspect solder joints and likely replace the capacitors with known long-life caps before use, but that's just one of my obsessive quirks from working in electronics.

[@ProfoundConfusion]

Those rubbery mats (the kind you put under a rug or doormat to keep them from sliding around) do a pretty good job of keeping foot pedals from sliding all over the floor.

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Great idea!

[@ro6742]

I’m a modern sewing machine tech and a vintage machine enthusiast. I wouldn’t charge anyone more than $20 to wire an electronic pedal. The pedals run about $30 so $50 “installed” seems fair. Provided the existing cords and outlets aren’t crispy critters.

[@davidjohnston4240]

EE here.. Those electronic bits are not particularly sensitive. the resistors caps and connectors are bulletproof. The mostly likely thing to creak if you are rough with it is the plastic. The transistor is fine as long as it's wired in since it's protected from static discharge from your fingers. The lightweight type you showed is relying on the coils in the motor in the sewing machine to smooth the switched supply. More advanced ones that contain more substantial energy storage components are acting like a voltage controlled inverter. I prefer the simpler style.

[@emmah6045]

If you do have carpeting in your sewing room, sticking strips of self adhesive velcro on the bottom of the foot pedal would keep it from sliding around.

[@vanessajones3508]

I enjoyed the video.

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Awesome, thank you!

[@beepbopboop3221]

Where can I find a foot pedal if I have a vintage machines with a motor but no pedal?

[@henrilebovic5229]

This is exactly what I was looking for! Do you mind sharing the link to buy it? Can't find it on website for whatever reason

[@philfrydman2576]

Hello, I got the foot control Type FR300 for Husqvarna Viking 19E and I'm looking for a maintenance manual and resistors/capacitors values. If anybody could help !

[@terrigelbaum8066]

I have a Kenmore 95 in a cabinet. Need to replace the cabinet knee pedal for a foot pedal. Do you know how to do that?

[@renevanwyk4053]

Please advise how to open a foot controller held together by springs, not screws.

[@flowerchild777]

Excellent information, thank you.

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Thanks for watching!

[@m0rg0n]

I have a beautiful white 77 series integrated into the cabinet with a knee pedal. I really would like to replace it with a foot pedal and make a portable box for the machine. How do I replace the knee pedal with a foot pedal?

[@amc16744]

I have the same issue. Did you ever find a resolution?

[@sherrieller6523]

I am having the same problem. My daughter bought me a wonderful Slantomatic 401a for Mothers day and I LOVE IT. It came with all the original attachments, manuals etc. I and it's in a beautiful wooden cabinet. I the only thing that I want to do is to add a foot pedal along with the knee pedal. Did u ever find a solution ladies? I know this gentleman is very knowledgeable but also long winded and never did tell how to wire it. I bought an electronic one and I did learn how to open it!

[@KJ7JHN]

A variable hall effect would work well here. 555 timer and PWM motor control. I like the idea, thanks!

[@ashi8172]

Can I change my speed on this foot-pedal?

[@matthewdegraffenried2771]

I love the ergonomics of a Singer button style foot pedal. Have you ever considered converting an old pedal case and put an electronic control inside it? I would love to see a video of that!

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Hi Matthew. As a matter of fact, I have imagined how it might work but have as yet not found the right components that would fit into the Button style housing. If you come across anyone who has found a way to do this, please share!!

[@matthewdegraffenried2771]

@@VintageSewingMachineGarage I was thinking of doing it myself. What I need is a button pedal that is junk, which I can use and a cheep electronic pedal. Then I could tinker with it to figure out how to make it work.

[@VonGeggry]

It actually looks like you could get fairly close with the hardware that's shown at the end of this video. Basically use the old button case and shove this hardware into it, if the old button style cases are metal you would have to be very cautious not to short anything though. use the bit that the lever is pushing down as the button?

[@debodonnell8987]

I watched your vintage sewing pedal video and it really helped me. My knee/foot pedal porcelain is cracked (mercury electric) and when I plug it the motor runs without pushing on the level. It’s a Kenmore ZZ 117.740 would the pedal in this video work?

[@genehalpern3049]

Is there any way to reduce the spring strength? I am going to be using these EZ-168 pedals as KNEE controllers in several sewing machine cabinets. I would rather not have to apply so much pressure to the side with my knee. If I could access the spring, I'm sure I could find a "weaker" spring to replace it. I've fiddled a bit with one of the EZ-168, but cannot seem to acces the actual spring.

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

The springs on these were not designed for cutomization and if you tried to alter it, you could damage its ability to perform. One alternative might be to try using one of the Singer "Button Style" foot pedals. They were designed to be used as both foot and knee control and are very easy to control speed with considering they were non-digital in nature. Be sure to check the Amp rating of your machine motors so that the amp rating for the motor matches that of the foot pedal.

[@chrisnixon2179]

could you put the internals from the new pedal on you original pedal to keep the original look but get modern functionality

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Great question Chris. I have wondered that myself, but I've not found a way do to so.

[@marielaurencebelhomme1059]

La pédale et le panneau de commande de ma machine à coudre ne fonctionne quelqu'un pourrait m'aider à la réparer s'il vous plaît ? Bonjour!

[@brandimr23]

I have a knee bar in my cabinet, it has the button style pedal. What would be best for that. My pedal seems to have a delay when I push the button. I think it might need to be replaced.

[@YarnieGirl]

I have a Vintage Elna (Super) and about 10 years ago, the foot pedal was replaced and it basically would work when it got ready. I'm at a lost for replacing it. Do you think this pedal would work for my machine? The original foot had a second speed. Boy do I miss it.

[@jojosewist8921]

Thank you for this i information, but how do you know if your machine foot pedal can be upgraded or use the generic electronic pedal.

[@familyandconsumersurvival9727]

The wiring has gone out in several my classroom pedals. The thing I am having the most trouble with is removing the wire stress relief clip from the side of the pedal where the wire comes out. Is there a trick to make this easier?

[@lanceblume1626]

Hi i have a necchi supernova and the electronics underneath are fried but the motor is good, could i wire the motor to a new pedal setup? Cheers Lance.

[@sherriharris6142]

I realize this an older video but hoping for your input. I recently purchased a 1923 99k singer in a Brentwood case that has a hole for the knee pedal. However it was missing. When I opened up the side where mechanism that moves knee pedal is, the ceramic had pretty much disintegrated. I'm thinking it must be rheostat. Coming from the motor are two wires with large plugs that go into mechanism. How can I identify this? How do I restore this?

[@SuperGokuSon]

I need a 2.5 Amp and it is crasy trying to find it. Any Recomendations?

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

I have not a clue Michael. Let us know if you do find one.

[@twilightzonepinball]

I have a Pfaff Hobbymatic 807 without a pedal. Will an electronic pedal work with it? THX

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Hello Tom and thanks for your question. European brands such as Pfaff can be a bit trickier to get the right controller for because 1. They were always changing/updating their cord and pedal designs 2. Often, the part you need exists but the model number of your own machine is not always listed. Here is a link to a pedal/cord combo that you could investigate. FYI, BE SURE to ask the seller if your model might be included. I do see the 807 model listed under their list of compatible models, BUT it fall under the "Tiptronic" model label. Now, its certainly possible that it also fits your machine since the number of models they produced is remarkable. Take a look at your male plug end and compare it to the cord plug in the photos. Next, see if you can find the amperage rating on your machine's motor. Then look at the amp ratings on the pedal. If you check with the seller first and they say its a fit, then you should be good to go. Also , double check the seller's return policy given the rather princely sum they want for this. (Don't be surprised as most European brands have silly parts prices compared to US and Japanese brands. ) I have no connection to this seller but simply found this on an Ebay search. Good luck and let us know how you make out. Here is the link I found: www.ebay.com/itm/FOOT-CONTROL-PEDAL-W-Cord-Pfaff-Select-2-2-3-0-3-2-4-0-4-2-362-6085-6091-6112/273233222305?hash=item3f9df81aa1:g:Dg8AAOSwnVRbqRsx

[@jerrytecklin9135]

Jerry Tecklin Easy installation, but I have a question. When the pedal is not depressed at all there is still a buzz in the motor, although it does not start until the pedal is depressed, and it then operates just fine. The pedal thus seems to be passing current to the motor even though it is in an off position. I can't see how this could be good for the motor, and I am careful to disconnect when I am not operating the sewing machine. Is the pedal defective? or Is this just normal for an electronic pedal?

[@eyeonart6865]

I thought you were going to show the installation.

[@prsy]

I just purchased one of these to replace an old carbon disk rheostat pedal that was worn out. The plug on the old pedal is unpolarized and I don't see any markings on the pcb silkscreen for polarity, am I good if I wire it either way? Or should I get out the multimeter?

[@cosmicmatrix6238]

Hi! I have a Davis Rotary (i.e. National R40) from 1949.....can't find the original foot pedal (the kind with the rotating sideways metal thing)....can I retrofit a different kind to work with it? I'm trying to sew masks and this is the only machine I have! Thank you

[@cmsmith92]

There’s so much room in those pedals, you could probably adhere some weights inside to give it some weight 😀

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Hi Cristina. Weights might be a possibility though I would not put them inside. I might try finding a way to weight the pedal down on the outside though!

[@jojosewist8921]

@@VintageSewingMachineGarage in that case, Id just glue the weights to bottom of pedal, making sure the glue can be used on plastic. Wouldnt that work, I would search thru hubby's piles of junk for weights (of course, he doesnt care).

[@VonGeggry]

​@@VintageSewingMachineGarage You absolutely could put them inside though. There's very little on that chip that could be shorted out. so absolutely could stick a flat sheet of lead in there as long as you kept it from rattling around.

[@PJ-ee5mc]

My wife has a 1 year old Juki that cost over $1,800 and the pedal started acting up. I took it apart and found that the construction of this pedal (the linear resistance assembly in particular) is laughable at best. I have to assume by the gauge of the wire and the type of barrel connector used with this pedal that it is controlling a low voltage circuit in the machine, although I have yet to test for that at the machine to confirm this. While the measurement does break up when testing the pedal for ohms I can still determine that it appears to have a span of around 0-140 ohms (starts at the 140 mark to create resistance so that the machine is OFF and then of course the resistance is lessened as the pedal is actuated to allow the machine to run. Even after cleaning with DeoxIT D5 contact cleaner and using a drop of dielectric grease it's still shot. Question: does anyone know how many ohms the other low voltage pedals are running in their units, if in fact they are low voltage?

[@enjoylife3000]

Thank you for sharing this info. I have a pedal like this one (came with a 150 watt motor) and the motor is soooo quick i want to adjust the speed. With your help i now how to open the pedal but how can i adjust the speed? I hope you can help on that too

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Hi Vivienne. As far as I know, speed control on these cannot be adjusted. Normally, an electronic pedal will offer improved speed control especially at the lower end for slow speed. If you are using one of these pedals and the speed is still challenging to manage, it could be that either the motor has some issue or also, its possible you got a "dud" with the electronic pedal you have. There could be other causes but these are the first possible scenarios that come to mind.

[@qwertyui90qwertyui90]

older style. they will last longer, can be cleaned and reassembled.

[@andrewbigelow1415]

Do you have a video that shows how to wire the leads to the pedal? I purchased a "kit" with the same pedal you have, a power cord and plug block, but I don't see anything inside the pedal that looks even remotely like a place to connect the wire leads (with fork-shaped terminals on the ends). Frustrating!

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Hi Andrew. I have not made a video of that procedure yet. I think there is one that was made by the folks that run a site I purchase a lot of my replacement parts at. She made the video for the generic electronic speed control or foot pedals they carry. Here is the link you might find helpful: kzbin.info/www/bejne/h3-zpZxmnMmga7c

[@MissEAG]

I've searched high and low, and I haven't found any info about if I could just put the electronic board and spring inside an old metal rheostatic case. ... or maybe even the whole plastic pedal inside the old one, if it was small enough of course... This would conserve the look and weight of the old vintage machine pedal, yet give the updated control of the new electric versions. Unfortunately, I don't know enough about wiring and electricity yet to ensure this is safe and to make sure the metal case wasn't shorting the electronics. If anyone has seen this done, please share!

[@davidjohnston4240]

Yes you can. You need to do the engineering to make sure it's all correct. For that you need someone who can design electronics. Fortunately I can and I'm working on a retrofit for old singer footpedal cases. Absolutely no guarantees on how long that will take.

[@henrilebovic5229]

@@davidjohnston4240 This sounds super cool! Lmk if you are able to figure that out

[@davidjohnston4240]

I have designed a retrofit board for the most common singer foot control. The one with the button. But I am travelling and won't be back home for a while. The boards are manufactured and delivered. I will assemble and test when I get home. There will likely have to be a second spin to fix whatever problems arise

[@henrilebovic5229]

@@davidjohnston4240 wow you know what you are doing. Are you an electrical engineer?

[@davidjohnston4240]

@@henrilebovic5229 Yes. Kinda.

[@ghouthqaisar980]

HI... I need your HELP ... Would you kindly send me a schematic diagram for Singer Foot Control Pedal 87532 (YC-485EC) ? I need to fabricate one for my machine. Thanks in advance

[@funmilayoidowu4706]

Good day sir, stumble across your video on foot pedals after searching for ages( a year +), i have an old ''Brother star 40E'' machine that has two separate input points,,, 1st= for AC power cord inlet(only lights up the machine), while 2nd= for foot pedal ( a "jack cord foot pedal)( without this machine wont work)....... Problems is i misplaced the (jack cord foot pedal) while moving houses, and no where to buy such an item... please please can u advice / do a video on how to diy jack to foot pedals,,, so that i can use one of my old earphone ''jack'' to connect with the foot pedal and cord I have.....thank you...

[@mantolaman]

How would you connect this to an old Singer 15 - 30?

[@mantolaman]

@Anthony Charlie Thanks for the info. But where do I find Flixzone?

[@carlagnixon3009]

Hello, I have been looking at your videos and in one of your videos you showed how to lower the feed dogs on a 15-90. I am trying to do free motion quilting on my vintage singer and I am having a tough time figuring out how to lower the feed dogs. Can you show me which video of yours has this?

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Hi Carla. I have not made a video showing what you mentioned. In lieu of that, the owner's manual should illustrate how to do this. Its fairly simple once you know how.

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

FYI, your control screw for lowering the feed dogs may require lubrication to loosen it as many of these were never used.

[@Linrox]

I don't think this will work for a bernina 1010, pedal type 290. My pedal uses 240v and has 3 wires (3 pin plug.)

[@VonGeggry]

So then do the three wire ones just have one 120V line, 1 adjustable, and 1 neutral? I recently got one (free to me) and I don't want to spend 30$ on a pedal just to see if it works. Considering just connecting the plug contacts to a suicide cord. Its a singer 347.

[@vsmetc7305]

Where do you get these electronic pedals? I want to get one for my vintage Singers like 201 and 15-91

[@swtmss]

I've just bought a viking vintage machine that uses a 4 pins entrance pedal, and sadly it wasn't included. Do you think I could replace it with an electronic pedal?

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Hello Ana. It will depend on your specific Viking model. Many machine makers started getting more proprietary by the 1970's and 80's. I would search online sewing parts retailers and see if your model comes up. You might also check with a local Sew-Vac center in your area to see if they can locate one for you.

[@IngridRollema]

For some reason, I was thinking my Kenmore's foot pedal was an electronic one (albeit a very heavy, Bakelite-encased electronic foot pedal - ha!). I haven't figured out how to slide the back off, but looking under where I took out the one screw there is a nice chunk of ceramic! Unfortunately, Google doesn't seem to have any images of one with the back panel removed, but eBay has a few "parts" ones for sale rather cheaply that I might buy so I can cannibalize one and satisfy my curiosity without damaging my working one.

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

Its understandable Ingrid. As companies began to introduce electronic pedals, they did that slowly because they were more expensive at the time and sewing customers were often tradition bound and did not open up to changes readily. Its possible that the styling of your pedal cover may look more "Mod" than some of the old analog style pedals but still have the analog/electro mechanical parts inside. It may also be a form of hybrid pedal since capacitors were used in the early 1950's by some companies to control motor current. Whether yours is or is not fully electronic, they all require gentle handling since all are vulnerable to damage from impacts. Another way to know just how electronic your pedal is can be reflected in how warm it gets. Electronic pedals show a little warmth, but older styles get much warmer. Thank you for sharing.

[@ikifkif]

solid state strictly meant the move to transistors from glass (vacuum) valves or tubes . thanks for great video.

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

I had wondered that but thanks so much for confirming. That term was used on a lot of products.

[@ikifkif]

@@VintageSewingMachineGarage do you know about wiring 3 wire pedals? thanks

[@MissEAG]

So are Solid State Foot pedals all electronic (ie not carbon pile?).

[@chrisprice5806]

electyronic foot pedals are useless. carbon pile is much better

[@rhoodj]

I think the same 👏👏 I Need a large PVC rubber foot pedal. I have been using old metal foot pedal. What is the best could you suggest please?

[@randykoger4646]

Useless video that provides no instruction at all.

[@wesreeves7200]

I have a Pfaff model 332. Would a generic foot pedal work with this?

[@VintageSewingMachineGarage]

As long as your Pfaff cord is a 2 wire and not a later 3 wire cord (I think yours is 2 wire if I recall), then a generic pedal should work. FYI, BE SURE to check the amperage rating on the replacement pedal to be sure it matches the amp rating on the machine motor (often listed on the outside body of the machine or sometimes the motor). The cords/plugs themselves are not generic though so you need a new reproduction cord that will specify that it fits your specific Pfaff model. Some companies like Pfaff tended to change the plug/cord designs a lot more frequently than did Singer or White so the model number matters. Just because a cord is advertised as fitting "Pfaff machines" is not a sure thing that it will fit your model so always ask.