Ford 2010 F150 4.6 3V ticking sound

[@timteevin4517]

Needed to hear noise before teardown.

[@J.A.Smith2397]

Agreed

[@kellysmith7462]

Finally! Someone who shows and explains these issues. Just wishing to hear sound before fixing. Still great video)

[@sentryfe74]

That is a very common issue for those 3 valve engines. It always seem to start at the #3 intake valve followers. It has to do with the way the oil is routed through the head. Good that you caught it before it destroyed the cam and dropped a valve.

[@colincox1whichnet]

Thank you for your time and skill, to provide us all great information.

[@MLBoyd001]

Thanks for posting this. I think I watched it about 12 times then did the same thing to my 05 FX4 with 253,000 miles on it.

[@ericd6967]

good catch. nice work. internals look like you take good care of it...very clean

[@lawrencecavens5760]

The Part that failed is called a Roller Follower, It was the reed bearing that failed. Good thing you caught that in time. I suggest to give your engine a gentle clean with WD40 - Fill a Detergent cap from a tide bottle full with WD40 and let that clean out the varnish - 2 cap full's should do the trick and let that work through while at idle and also while its hot . Get in to the habit of changing the oil more frequently and or updating your oil pump to a higher volume flow as these engines are known for oil starvation on the right bank which is probably why the roller follower froze. I also recommend do not follow Fords scheduled interval oil change as varnish is the culprit here. WD40 will work with your oil and wont harm the system. I do this with my 2008 F250 Super Duty truck and wow it makes a big difference when the lash adjuster that start to stick they return to normal.

[@alb12345672]

There is a TSB for the 3V engine. All should be replaced if one is bad. testing-public.carmd.com/Tsb/Download/127241/ssm47331

[@lawrencecavens5760]

@@alb12345672 Hey Thanks for the notification bulletin thats good to know

[@elvism684]

I wouldn’t have thought 5,000Mile oil change on synthetic was long. I change mines between that and 7,000 depending on weather/layzness with conventional. Mines is a 3.7L though

[@MrLuisinho90]

@@elvism684 5K on fully synthetic is good. Manual says 5K intervals but the dealer uses synthetic blend which doesn't last as long as fully synthetic. Also, under severe driving conditions (constant towing, stop-n-go traffic) you may want to change your oil intervals to 3,500 miles

[@jpwildcatdaddy]

So if you put the WD-40 in and run it at an idle, how long should you let it run? And did you change the oil right afterwards?

[@rturgeau2295]

I have 2010 f150 4.6 3v 187k just had passenger exhaust manifold changed 900bucks. I also had a timing chain rattle on cold start so I went ahead and did all the timing components and new high volume oil pump 2500bucks. If you plan on keeping your truck your going to have to do timing components. Great video.

[@Jay388]

I think you can get a new engine for around $3,300

[@CHixon]

@@Jay388 I'm thinking the same. At the first sign of trouble, just replace the engine and be done with the time I otherwise would have wasted before I replaced the engine anyway.

[@rturgeau2295]

@@Jay388 3300 for the engine plus labor. Easy 5k for a total engine replacement, but I understand your point.

[@godisgreat5141]

So what happens when u spend 3 grand on a 9000 dollar truck? Just wait for it all to happen again?

[@mr.boostang2064]

@@Jay388 now that you brought that up it really would make sense too replace the entire engine especially since the new remanufactured engines come with updated heads, high flow oil pump and quality timing components all with a 5-7yr warranty

[@Quest4Unknown]

Lifters and especially rockers are more common problems on GM and Ram, good thing you fought that tho.

[@mw4382]

2009 4.6 3v Same problem, 394,000 miles Runs Great.

[@henrygomez7128]

Hello M W, I have thr same exact year...what type of oil are you using? Any tips for mine to get to that type of milage? Ty

[@mw4382]

@@henrygomez7128 I use Amsoil 5w30 Recently switched to Rotella 5w30. I use only MotorCraft Plugs. Chevron or Shell Fuel. If your truck sounds loud at Idle it may be the Rocker arm. Mine was sounding like a Diesel, 1 was bad. Quiet as ever. Also No Fram Oil Filters!

[@henrygomez7128]

@@mw4382 thanks for the tips!

[@jxxnxn1565]

Hey Dave. Thanks a lot for posting this video. In my case, I have an Explorer V8 4.6 2008 that make a valve exhaust noise after the first start-up and then later disspears. I was suspecting the problem is relate to the valve pusher rocket arm and the hydraulic adjuster. Now, I am clear how to check the issue on my truck. Thanks a lot!

[@daveraymond2265]

You're welcome. Good Luck!

[@Hellondais]

Sounds like you have exhaust manifold leak, another common problem.

[@daveraymond2265]

@@Hellondais if you look closely you will see stainless steel manifold bolts and replacement manifolds I installed

[@Hellondais]

Nice, well I got 10 years out of the first ones. If I get 10 more out of my new manifolds Ill be happy. I don't know a 4.6 that hasn't had this problem. My manifolds were warped by almost a cm.

[@MrLuisinho90]

@@Hellondais agreed, my dad had a 2010 F150 XLT like this one with a tapping noise on cold starts only, then it ran smooth. At first we thought the ticking noise was roller followers but we removed the valve covers and it was all good. Timing set was also good. Then we taped a vacuum hose on the exhaust and ran the vacuum in blower mode just to fin out the driver's side exhaust manifold was leaking. Exhaust manifolds are a common failure point in these trucks, even in warmer climates.

[@alb12345672]

I read a TSB that all the rockers are suspect on that engine. Even up the 2014 when they were last used in the expeditions. Check TSBs for your truck.

[@therealcatstronaut1809]

I've got an 05 with 304,000 on it. I couldn't pinpoint the sounds but I'm pretty certain this is it. Coming from the same area also

[@sergeyt8514]

Where can I find that tool? The one that you used to compress the spring

[@stevenn4393]

Good video. Did u replace Lash Adjuster as well with cam in place? How long was the entire process?

[@davidhoulden5791]

I don't think you can replace the Lash Adjuster with the cam in place on that engine.

[@charlesmahaney5061]

@@davidhoulden5791 Yes it can be replaced with the roller follower removed

[@rollerbearings9995]

Some of the prior comments from guys who take these to a mechanic.... $1500, $2500 in labor is not worth the value. Drop in a rebuilt engine (Jasper, Powertrain Products, Summit, etc.) for a little bit more. A new engine increases residual value of the truck - ---dollars spent for parts & labor fixing problems does not.

[@EntertainmentHub92]

Before I tear down. Should i just hold a stethoscope to the valve covers. My 05 e150 4.6 2v ticks now hot or cold. With our without lucas heavey duty stabilizer. And it ticks at idle and during acceleration. Ford said they don't want to fix it because if they fix the lash adjusters and it still ticks I'd be throwing money away. I thought mechanics were able to diagnose these things. So I figured I'd try myself. Should start with the stethoscope idea?

[@lawrencecavens5760]

If the problem is just starting where you can catch it before it becomes major like mine did then you will be fine. Please note - it will take time for the WD40 to work its way though the upper and lower but it will work as long as there is no major damage. And I also think its helping clean the oil control rings and the carbon from the pistons - I might be wrong but If the oil is still going good where its now 3000 km past the oil change I must say the oil blow by gasses are next to nil - so Something right must be happening. And All seals are fine too I might add Rear and main front seal are not leaking...So - Need I say more?

[@styleauto1025]

What is the clinking sound like?

[@martingoodwin56]

Did you listen with a mechanics stethoscope and pinpoint the noise?

[@daveraymond2265]

No, it was very obvious that it was coming from the right side of the motor so I just removed the valve cover to investigate. It was also pretty obvious it was a valve train tapping and not a crank knocking sound.

[@DRIFTWORKSINC]

Dave so I just bought the tool and a set of rockers and tentioner. When feeling for play I only feel side to side play of the Rocker wheel on both the brand new oem one and the right bank of my engine. However I have ticking, I'm confused at this of this is the same noise everyone says it is for me.

[@daveraymond2265]

You have to make sure the valve is closed and the rocker is on the base circle of the cam If the valve is being opened by the cam you won’t feel any play at all even if it is the bad rocker in question

[@daveraymond2265]

You might need to rotate the engine slightly using a breaker bar on the crank pulley in case the rocker in question is actually opening a valve

[@daveraymond2265]

Could it be a rocker on the other side of the engine?

[@DRIFTWORKSINC]

@@daveraymond2265 That is a really good possibility. I rotated the engine and same on all 12 valves. I'm going to try to run 10w-30 instead of 5w-20 next oil change. I've been recommended that that may work as well. Especially in the summer months. But next chance I get ill pop the left bank off and check those. I already have the tools and supplies just trying to keep the engine running smooth.

[@andrewstahl3531]

Great video

[@RodneyRoussel]

Yes where can I buy a compression valve spring compressor tool

[@daveraymond2265]

I got mine on Ebay: www.ebay.com/itm/185547657886?hash=item2b3380929e:g:h1UAAOSw4eViazvb&amdata=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0Bj66gBY4%2BM6n%2B1uqgw4ThBRXXYn4Nfdj65pEPQ5fykLDaMVHbHSMR5%2FO6VG5ABRog50%2BHgF4zNiJRfInUdZOKtKcIUs0VYYwxYlhFmzoijcsJtLuHctcEqkcsG3ZHrpH97ZnHOFYrG30VIVihSCCfBhmZRiNodE41vNoh8ZXRGx89GdIiXgrONkJgxntM8KukZfd4PxzwSb%2FR4BK6f%2BuZwqLr5uNHTLqDgbdHbtCXA8FJOUIkBU2XO590xB7naf5weA2HE0yK4rx9cXZgJGlWc%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR6KPxfDVYg

[@markyisser9004]

Cool

[@shermgohn]

How many miles on this truck?

[@daveraymond2265]

This truck has 184,000 mi.

[@shermgohn]

@@daveraymond2265 I'm thinking of buying a 2010 with 153,000 what other problems might I be aware of?

[@daveraymond2265]

@@shermgohn take a look at the exhaust manifold bolts. They have a tendency to rust and break. An early indication is starting the engine when it is cold and hearing a ticking sound, which is actually an exhaust leak between the manifold and cylinder head, which may go away in about 15-30 seconds after the manifold heats up and expands. You can see the upper bolts pretty easily. If you look close at my video you can see I replaced mine with stainless steel studs and nuts but it is a huge job to get the old manifolds off, remove any broken studs and replace the manifolds. That job could cost $2,000, mostly labor. Check the manifold bolts and if they are rusted point it out to the seller and negotiate for the repair.

[@shermgohn]

@@daveraymond2265 thank you very much for the information I will look at that. Again thank you very much

[@MichaelFletcher-to7mm]

@@shermgohn I’ve got 315k miles on my 4.6 3v f150, runs great, started leaking oil just a little so haven’t driven it in a month, hubs need replaced too but that’s to be expected

[@arthuresclamada1805]

does the sound always start at cold startup or only when warm?

[@daveraymond2265]

The ticking was constant cold or warm

[@snap-off5383]

lucky 3 valve guys with the threaded compressor. Pretty much need a buddy to do the 4valve. No wonder it takes me weeks to do what a mechanic can do in a couple days. . . I pack rags in around the cam to capture any emory sand or metal flakes, and don't know which steps I'm taking are smart and which ones are time-wasters.

[@Anon1mous]

Did you have to buy that compression tool or did one of the auto parts stores loan it to you?

[@daveraymond2265]

hey Jon, I was fortunate enough to borough the tool from a mechanic at the nearby Ford dealership. I have since bought the tool and a spare follower and lash adjuster, so if I hear this sound again and it is another follower I can take care of it immediately.

[@brettdillaman5477]

You don't need it. All you need is a beefy screwdriver

[@davidhoulden5791]

@@brettdillaman5477 I think the screwdriver only works on the 2V.

[@AllstarproductionsHD]

Not true. Just took one off with a flathead today. 2005 3v 4.6 mustang. Just has to be on the bottom side of the lobe on the cam.

[@YasapYaakov018]

Anyone else had this issue who also have the sound it makes before the fix. I have a ticking sound on my 09 4.6, but it's mostly under load, no check engine or any error codes.

[@daveraymond2265]

@@YasapYaakov018 this tick was easily heard at idle, could you possibly have an exhaust leak? These are notorious for exhaust manifold bolts breaking.

[@YasapYaakov018]

​@daveraymond2265 I watched a video right after this by Fordmakuloco, and yes I believe it's the passenger side manifold. It looked all bolted up, but I touched one of the bolt close to the firewall and it literally fell off. Look like I need a new exhaust manifold and gasket.

[@gk7434]

Hi, what kind of tool you use, where to buy?

[@daveraymond2265]

I purchased a valve spring compressor tool on ebay: www.ebay.com/itm/Valve-Spring-Compressor-Tool-for-Ford-4-6L-5-4L-6-8L-3V-Engines-US-STOCK/392361378917?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 I also purchased a second rocker and lash adjuster to keep on hand.

[@gk7434]

@@daveraymond2265 Thanks

[@lawrencecavens5760]

In addition to the roller follower problem -what starts this whole issue is the lash adjuster start sticking, this is what starts the whole mechanical beak down problem - Slight ticking when the oil is hot then as the wear starts to happen the roller follower bearing starts to fail and collapse then the ticking get a bit louder next thing you know the cam starts to get destroyed and POOF! and before you know it there it sits ... The conclusion that I've come to is the oil now in days doesn't have the same minerals to fight off water contaminants and this is where WD40 plays a big roll in displacing moisture and synthetic oil is not the answer This is just a false statement that helps no one. You need a good quality oil and stop with the cheap brands. Rottella and Castrol seem to be the top picks . Now Another thing must be taken in to consideration and that is sludge that will start to build in the base of the oil pan from break down - this in tern needs to be removed manually or all you end up doing is contaminating the new replaced oil change - which means the pan must be removed and cleaned then reinstalled. So - 1. short trips need to be avoided at all possible and 2. inspection of the oil sump needs to be done from time to time and cleaned if needed - every 2-3 years . Here's a bit of hope to all who read this - Since my last oil change which was due at 228000 Now it's 231431 and the oil is still good shape - and this is where I would not extend this far but I can still read the markings on the dip stick and my engine is running fine even when its hot after driving.

[@Cooptech]

How loud is the noise?

[@daveraymond2265]

Not very loud but you will notice it from inside the vehicle if you are driving around without the radio on, that is when I first noticed it. I am sure it will get louder as it continues to wear.

[@jesseperez3944]

Do you happen to have the part numbers

[@daveraymond2265]

www.ebay.com/itm/Ford-Racing-4-6L-5-4L-Rocker-Arm-Valve-Lifter-Follower-Lash-Adjuster-OEM-M65293V/322001379608?_trkparms=aid%3D1110006%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20200520130048%26meid%3D0d5a17b95aca4cad83ed336341cabbf3%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D12%26mehot%3Dag%26sd%3D201519162438%26itm%3D322001379608%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D2047675%26algv%3DSimplAMLv5PairwiseWebWithDarwoV3BBEV2b%26brand%3DFord&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851

[@shadowsymphony1]

No valve cover gasket?

[@daveraymond2265]

The gasket sits in a channel in the valve cover.

[@shadowsymphony1]

@@daveraymond2265 Ahh..ok

[@GabrielRodriguez-st9sw]

I’m having the same problem with my truck

[@ranger6447]

Good Job!!!

[@rhino6285]

I hope this won't happen on my 2002 5.4 2 valve

[@fredrickclarke2579]

That's a great engine.

[@brettdillaman5477]

Done this job with just a screwdriver easier and faster then you did with that tool.

[@devonthompson7190]

how

[@davidhoulden5791]

Maybe on the 2V not the 3V.