Ford 3.5 Engine Failure, What Debris Will We Find in the Oil and Filter?? It's NOT Good!

#ford #edge #cars #rodknock #rodbearing #fail #failtastic #youtubelearning #withme #diy #doityourself #youtube #youtuber #jrzcarz
In this JrZ CarZ video, I'll be dropping the oil out of the Ford Edge, cutting open the oil filter to see what's in there and opening up the top end to see how hurt this 3.5L engine is being that it's rod knocking. What did we find? Do you think the engine is salvageable? Will I burn it to the ground? If you have a Taurus, Sable, Edge, Flex, MKX, or MKZ, you need to take a look at this video and the others that I have below on the Edge to prevent this happening to you!
Other videos on this Ford Edge:
Rod knock video: • Rod Knocking Ford Edge...
Replacing water pump: • Ford Edge, Taurus, Mer...
When the water pump failed: • Blown Head Gasket, or ...
Valve cover gasket replacement: • Ford Edge and Lincoln ...
Ownership Review: • 2007 Ford Edge In Dept...
Hyundai Sonata Engine Failure series:
Engine failure: • 2013 Hyundai Sonata Bl...
Replacing Rod bearings Part 1,2 and 3:
• 2013 Sonata Rod Knock ...
• 2013 Sonata Rod Knock ...
• 2013 Sonata Rod Knock ...
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[@enajenaj6841]

What milage was on that Edge when you had this problem. Do you think it was caused by it sitting too long.

[@JrZCarZ]

It was about 150k. And it's possible because it sat for a bit, but after fixing the water pump and driving for over 1000 miles, I thought I was in the clear.

[@Hendogg28]

@JrZCarZ Yeah the reason it looks like that was because the filter was doing its job. Most of the metal shavings went to the bottom of the pan right out the side of the bearing cap. And the oil comes up though the oil pump then thought the filter then to the rest of the engine.. It may or may not stay together if you polished that one journal. And just done a set of bearings. I’ve seen them last and I’ve seen them not. It’s just a gamble, but worth it for the cost difference if it lasts and makes it anther 5k or 50k miles on down the road only time will tell..I bet if you would have pulled the main bearings all of them would have still looked new. Other than the ones on each side of that rod bearing that failed. Those would have had some markings from the metal that flowed from that bearing to the next one.. But otherwise will last a long time if the rod stays together..

[@Rebmetpes4]

Had the same thing happened to me; had to clean it all off and replace the rod bearings on one of the pistons; sand papered it smooth, put everything back together, girdle and all, and am hoping for the best bro; sorry that happened to you fam but blessing are everywhere!

[@hummerguy]

How did it go

[@Rebmetpes4]

@@hummerguy not well @ all; a total loss!

[@hummerguy]

@@Rebmetpes4 That sucks

[@redflintspark1376]

Ive got one 3.5 with a bad freeze plug, and another that has started to leak water... presumably from the timing cover. Not looking forward to this, and the shop wants 3k to do the job 😂

[@JrZCarZ]

After doing the job, I can see why a shop would charge that amount..... It was a LOT of work.

[@robertkadids379]

Damn man that sucks! My thought is that from it sitting there was rust in the engine and that's what is in the oil filter. If it were me, I'd replace the engine and keep it! That roof is something I couldn't give up.

[@JrZCarZ]

I very well may be replacing the engine at this point. Just have to find a good used one which is going to be 'fun'.

[@keembrown5658]

same issue with mine ran into this issue earlier morning was oil starved it’s knocking like ice cubes in a blender now

[@JrZCarZ]

When I took the bottom end apart I found that only one bearing was hosed and even that one wasn't completely destroyed. The others had some wear but nothing crazy for a 172k mile motor. The bad bearing journal wasn't horrible so it was fairly easy to polish it up and put in new bearings. The rest of the 5 journals were pristine.

[@keembrown5658]

@@JrZCarZ I’m trying to replace my crankshaft on my vehicle but apparently there are 2 different forging numbers either 7T4E or AA5E and I don’t want to get the wrong one. Is there a way to tell without viewing the crankshaft?

[@JrZCarZ]

@@keembrown5658 the only way to be sure is to have the crank in front of you to see the casting number.

[@keembrown5658]

@@JrZCarZ Thank you that’s what I thought I appreciate your information best of luck with your repair if you pursue it

[@Hendogg28]

@keembrown5658 The AA5E is for the rear wheel drives like the F150 and Mustangs. The 7T4E is for the front wheel drives.. Both use the same rod and main bearings and seals. That’s the difference between the two crankshafts if you’re still needing to know.