Ford Aerostar Actuator Rod Repair

[@cornerhorse]

There is a notch in the steering shaft that allows the switch end of the sliding piece to be pulled out far enough to get the actuator pin engaged without sanding or filing

[@BigjamesKY]

I’m at a loss help lol

[@razy7609]

Doesn’t go out far enough for me.

[@razy7609]

@@BigjamesKY if you don’t mind me asking, how did you end up going about that? I cannot grind mine enough to get it in, probably going to have to pull the shaft.

[@shaygleason3585]

Had to completely rebuild a steering column in a ranger. Same setup same problem. Had to replace the shift tube also. The ignition cylinder gear was the hardest part. It really whooped my tail. This video helped me a lot. Thank you for posting.

[@Brandonwillis110]

13 years later and you saved me the $500 the mechanic was charging for my 05 ranger. Definitely one of the bigger jobs I’ve taken on so far but this video really helped guide the process. Thank you Capt🫡

[@wjcarter1032]

Thanks Capt. America. A note on my go at this. The upper actuator arm on my 95 F150 lost the little metal pin. It just worked loose over time. When I took the column apart it was laying right there in the housing to the right of the arm end. I bought the new arm but never used it. I lined the hole up in the old arm with the slot and put the pin back in from the left. Was not easy but I used the yellow grease (a blob of it) to hold the pin in place while I started it, put a screwdriver on the right side of the arm to steady everything, got it started, and pushed it home with an awl. Lastly, I cut a piece of plastic milk carton and placed it in the right side of the arm housing to make up for any wear that may have occurred over time. It is held in place not only by the arm but by all the extra yellow grease (when you start the job you'll know what we mean) I collected and applied it to both sides of the plastic. I did not want to grind or shave anything down on the arm. Just thought this might be better. Your choice. It is do-able my way, just really difficult. Thanks again to You'rePrettyGood & Captain America. Thanks to the other posters too.

[@DanielCO719]

i have a 96 ford F150 with the same problem. This was the first place i found with a walk through on how to remove the housing to replace it. You saved me hours of trial and error. much appreciated.

[@noothernameisavail]

This is one of the better videos on this fix. I did find that the PVC pipe can be hammered rather than bolted to get the snap ring seated. The air bag nuts to hold the "claws" down while seating the housing is genius! I also found that placing the steering wheel retaining bolt back in the column gave a place to pull the shaft into the upper housing after having little luck with the screwdriver in the side method. United Technologies, the actual mfg of the assy, blew it with the ign rod!

[@TheBeeGuy85]

Great vid! Thank you for not spending 20 minutes babbling on and on about nonsense and telling people your life story (no I'm not being sarcastic). There are other vids on replacing this actuator that just waste 30 minutes of your life because the person recording wants to talk about BS and show 50 million angles of parts that don't matter. Great idea with the PVC pipe, I'm doing this repair on an 01 Mustang tomorrow and this will definitely be useful.

[@user-bg8dt7ip4t]

Used your tips on a 96 Taurus. Thank you so much for the time saving tips. You tube needs more people like you. Thanks for sharing!!!!!

[@CaptainAmericaYoutube]

When I made this I didn't have the money to afford a mechanic to do the repair. Plus, for how cheap that part was, I really didn't want to spend the money getting that repair done. I still want to eventually remake the video as I have better camera equipment now and I would rather make it more concise, better language, include feedback from comments, and show the process of putting everything back together.

[@CaptainAmericaYoutube]

Thinking about it, when removing the gear piece from the key cylinder housing I would recommend marking both the gear and the actuator rod (the broken one) with a black permanent marker to show which tooth you are supposed to line up in the on position. Then when you take the rod out set it next to the new one and mark the new one in the same spot. This should make realigning the teeth easy.

[@frontman3046]

thanks

[@fbama73]

This video helped me changing out the linkage in a Taurus for a friend's son. One thing I did differently- instead of sanding the new upper actuator (the weakest area of the part that broke) to be able to get it into the lower actuator, I used a pneumatic band file to put a notch in the aluminum housing enough to get the new upper actuator in. The housing is plenty beefy enough to withstand it.

[@CaptainAmericaYoutube]

+fbama73 Thanks for the idea. If I get time I plan on trying to make a new video (I have better equipment/software and I dislike the flow of speech I had while making this video). I also hope to incorporate all the feedback and improvements, like yours, so that everyone can better benefit (plus show the full reinstall). Thank you!

[@9631612]

I want to thank you for taking the time to make this tutorial. It was a huge help to me today. I didn't change my actuator but my shift shaft broke so I was able to use a lot of your information for my job. THANK YOU!

[@insolentstickleback3266]

This is clearly Parker for "Gold Rush." Thank You Parker, the steering wheel in my 95 XLT became a little floppy, yes it was quite alarming let me tell you. Your video was a very nice preview to get me started on the repair.

[@IroncloudMetalworks]

Great video -- my actuator rod won't go all the way out and my key is stuck. I'm guessing it's time to tear this baby down... hoping it's just the interlock solenoid or something easier than the full teardown -- but this video is absolutely worth its weight in gold. Thank you!!

[@CaptainAmericaYoutube]

Do you keep a lot of keys on your keychain?

[@Dwolfson22]

@@CaptainAmericaKZbin no but I left this van out without the doghouse on for like 3 years - I think the corrosion worked it’s way into the column!!

[@CaptainAmericaYoutube]

Glad to help, I have honestly wished I could have seen my own video before starting as I would have gotten the job done much faster.

[@alexhatcher8812]

I just did this repair today on my 1995 Mustang. this video was super helpful. I could not replace the spring however for the tilt adjustment. i'll attempt that later.

[@CaptainAmericaYoutube]

alex hatcher I never did replace mine and never notice any issues.

[@alexhatcher8812]

It just drops to the lowest setting. i used 5 zip ties and compressed the spring. it slid right in and then i snipped the zipties. This video was extremely helpful.

[@marcjomini8281]

Thank you for the video. The zip ties on the tilt assist spring worked great. Wish I had read the comments sooner!!!!!

[@noothernameisavail]

Forgot to mention that the tilt spring can be compressed quite nicely with zip ties! Have to evenly tighten them as you go or they will slide to one side. Had five zip ties before I got it compressed evenly and tight enough to easily go in place. Cut the ties and pull them out...

[@colinmccubbin4010]

Thanks for that tip, The zip ties worked nicely!

[@CaptainAmericaYoutube]

If your lucky then the ignition switch is the problem (much easier to fix). The metal pin connects to the actuator rod. Also, make sure to read the comments on this video as there has been some great tips for the repair (especially in terms of getting the actuator rod back on that pin during the repair).

[@adrianofariselli7186]

You are the best ! Thanks for the video it help me a lot to get mine done and learn how to do it right the first time .

[@Flies2FLL]

I'm replacing the bearing at the very top of the steering column on my '97, and this video is invaluable! My only question: How do you get the top plastic covering of the steering column off? I guess you have to pull the lock cylinder first-

[@aJEEPforthebirds]

First off, great video. Just did the whole procedure and everything seems to work now. But I have no crank

[@CaptainAmericaYoutube]

One of my regrets is not doing a reverse video as it isn't as straight forward as I thought back then. I assume you did put the switch back in that goes under the dash (great for manually starting and stopping the vehicle when actuator rod is broken). If you did, or didn't, can you crank the vehicle from it? Otherwise, as noted in some of the pinned comments, getting the key cylinder housing put back exactly as it was before you took out it is really important and could also cause issues with cranking. Let me know if it starts by the switch though and also if the steering wheel unlocks via the key.

[@aJEEPforthebirds]

@@CaptainAmericaKZbin I'm just about to leave for work, but i will try that first thing in the morning. Ill message back with what I find out. Thank you for getting back to me so quickly!

[@lesterabram5546]

Thanks Bro. A great help indeed.

[@SPLATBAM1]

This video was a great help.

[@nyazillagojira7079]

Thanks for great video.Hard to find exact make n model for what i need. I replaced my 94 Ford Aerostar ignition lock cylinder. It was hanging up. Easy to pop out. After replacing it. Now i have the same issue. The steering wheel locked in the Auxiliary Position. No matter what i try. What else can i try to unlock this steering wheel.

[@steveo434]

At 8:30 of the video, lowering of the column, be extra carfull not break the string that goes to the gear shift indicator, if that breaks the red indicator will not move with your gear shifter hence you wont know what gear the vehicle is in.

[@CaptainAmericaYoutube]

Steve O definitely sound advice

[@CaptainAmericaYoutube]

That would be a correct reflection. Did you make a video of what you did as I would have loved to seen that as that particular step was very tedious. Nice work!

[@LiLHank]

I have the same issue. I believe it is the Actuator Rod. What exactly does the ignition switch do and how did you manually start your car? I need to know this so I can drive it until I can afford the repair. Thank You so much for your video!

[@CaptainAmericaYoutube]

If you look under your dashboard directly where the steering wheel comes in there is a beige/tan box with wires going into it (you can see it out in the video at 00:07). That metal pin sticking out of it is how you start the vehicle. It is attached by two hex screws (if I am remember right). Get those out and you can put it how I have it in the video. Then insert the key and unlock the steering column, and I recommend pliers to move the pin.

[@Flo-xh8uz]

Hey, great job on this video! This helped me putting back the ignition switch where it belongs. haha I'm having problems though putting the 3 pieces into the ignition cylinder housing though. Which position does the little gear need to have? Thanks in advance

[@CaptainAmericaYoutube]

+Florian Brett Sorry for the slow response (hopefully you already have this figured out) I do remember having difficulty with that step as well. I almost want to make a new version of this video with better camera angles (my kids are old enough to help now). As for your question, the most I remember of that step is noted in the video at 13:40 (The text part there is not credits but a note about the exact issue you are having). That being said, it will take a little fine tweaking to get it right. I apologize for not having video of that step.

[@Flo-xh8uz]

+Captain America, thank you for the response. I did figure it out, after all. especially the gear setting right was difficult. But I figured out that on the bottom of the searing column there is a little mark on the metal part, that indicates where the whole of the actuator is supposed to be when putting the ignition cylinder in. since there is only one way to insert the cylinder the gear can be se to that position. took me a second to step back and think about it a little more. also important is, that the gear retainer (the little plate) needs to be put in that it can be rotated into position counterclockwise. I was trying to make it work the other way first. thanks again for this awesome video. I did this repair on a Mercury Grand Marquis 1999. Great work. I avoided a big bill and even better learned a little bit on the mechanics. I had my fun with it.

[@LarryGoggins000]

Hey man!!!! Really good stuff and I love how youre posting on everybody’s comments to help them diagnose their problem. I usually don’t even attempt to ask questions on a KZbin vid but since it looks like you’re responsive and educated.. I gotta question!! One day hopped in the danger ranger and nothing. It would show power to dash. But as soon as I went to crank, it would click and nothing. Lose power. And power won’t come back for a bit either after an initial try. So anyway. I replaced my starter, got my battery tested, did my ignition switch and start relay/fuse in the distribution box. I started to do my key cylinder but I have to get the new programmed and that’s a bitch to get it towed to the locksmith to do it.. so before I go through with that.. I wanna know if it’s possibly the actuator rod like you showed? What symptoms did u have? Sometimes too after a “try”, I’ll hear a stuttering coming from the inside the head unit that usually goes away in seconds. This is kicking my butt as it’s a first but I am mechanically inclined. So any help would be awesome! Trying save some money like you did.

[@LarryGoggins000]

It’s be cool to know which direction to take, ya know? Key cylinder and gets keys programmed or go ahead and get a steering wheel puller and go for the actuator rod

[@CaptainAmericaYoutube]

So when you did the ignition switch (and before putting it back in) did you try to start it from the ignition switch? Also, do you have a lot of keys on your key chain?

[@LarryGoggins000]

@@CaptainAmericaKZbin I did not! What’s the process for that? Just take switch out and engage it forward on its own? Key in the ignition and everything? And yessir I do actually have a lot of keys

[@CaptainAmericaYoutube]

@@LarryGoggins000 Just as you described, take it out and and engage it forward on it's own. If that works then it really suggest it could be the actuator rod. The more keys you have the more likely you can shorten the lifespan of the key cylinder. Which also could be causing an issue with the chip in the key being detected. I would start by removing the ignition key from the key chain and trying to start the vehicle. After that likely doesn't work then try the ignition switch with the key in the ignition. Good luck!

[@LarryGoggins000]

@@CaptainAmericaKZbin thank you captain!!!!

[@MauFer-]

Nice video, thanks for explain it to us. It seems a pain! does someone knows where the switch control wires are? this models are quite different and a lot harder to fix, i wanna bypass the key, switch, etc. in order to add an starting button system. it would be even cheaper.

[@OnMYm1nd]

this helped me a lot thank you did the job yesterday. I have one question tho when you finished was your steering wheel tight to turn, mine is. Is it possible that I tighten the steering bolt to tight

[@CaptainAmericaYoutube]

Glad it helped and I apologize for the delayed response, my phone wasn't able to see your message. Strangely enough that actually could be the issue and in terms of affordability that is definitely the best place to start. I wouldn't torque them passed 6-8 lb./ft. and after loosing (possibly with the front end jacked up) see if the steering is easier with the bolt loosened (with the battery still disconnected). As this has already been 2 days hopefully you already tried loosening it?

[@68tlacuache]

Thanks for sharing 👍

[@nathaneaton6178]

So how did you get the tilt spring back in safely

[@CaptainAmericaYoutube]

There is a comment below about using zip ties to do it which is what I would recommend. In my case I never put it back as I really didn't need to adjust the tilt and honestly I didn't think of zip ties.

[@aladdim007]

preciso trocar a mesma peça do meu Ford Taurus LX 1994.O processo desmontar é o mesmo do vídeo?

[@niclitman7612]

will this keep you from cutting the car off? i have to disconnect the battery to cut the car off, but i can crank it up.

[@CaptainAmericaYoutube]

If your actuator rod breaks you likely won't be able to turn off (cut the car off) when on or (if it wasn't on) be able to turn it on. The ignition switch I talked about is a small off-white box held in by two torx screws and if you pull that out (like it is in the video) you can manually turn the vehicle off and on without having to disconnect the battery (I got by for over a month with the rod broken that way before I finally got to the solution the video shows). You do still have to have the key in the ignition turned to on to unlock the steering wheel but otherwise with that box out you start and turn the vehicle off (or put in aux mode) with that box only. Once the actuator rod is replaced you just replace that box and the key will work as it did before (all the rod does is move the metal pin sticking out of the switch to the location determined by the key). If I didn't answer your question let me know :)

[@danh2449]

What size pvc pipe was used?

[@CaptainAmericaYoutube]

3/4 inch diameter (at 12:24 in the video it briefly flashes on the top of the video). I will note this in the description to make it easier for anyone else in the future.

[@clementetsegbe7326]

I need your help to put my van back to work , we are stuck in trying to put in the actuator after removing the broken part my tech guy was unable to fix in the new one

[@CaptainAmericaYoutube]

Did you file it down? The way I did it in this video doesn't show the work that goes into making it fit. Or are you having another issue? Also, did you get the entire broken part out?

[@genemyers834]

good video,will that work for a 96 ranger

[@CaptainAmericaYoutube]

gene myers - Not sure how I didn't see this but for anyone else with this question the answer is yes as I based part of the repair on a guide for a 1996 Ford Ranger. There could be minor differences but nothing major.

[@german69692007]

Thank You!

[@jmb92555]

A couple of key things are missing. 1. The removal of what you called the bearing retainer. The part that is a lot like a snap ring but w/o the holes for snap ring pliers. I didn't see you remove that and I'm stuck at that point. 2. The things you held down with the airbag nuts. Those are held in place by some type of spring pressure? I was thinking I'd have to remove the pin they rest on when the thing is fully assembled. Oh and one more thing... how did you end up getting the teeth on the actuator in the proper cogs on the gear?

[@CaptainAmericaYoutube]

Do you happen to have the video times? Then we can work on getting the answers you need plus with others having just completed this recently there are fresher memories we can turn to just in case. On the teeth I don't remember having to do anything fancy as it was the alignment of the key ignition cylinder as it came out that has that alignment. Once the new actuator rod is in it ends up at the same position the old one was in. I also recommend reading some of the old comments as there are some good tips.

[@jmb92555]

Thanks for the reply. I'm taking a break from it today but I'm in the middle of doing this. The retaining ring just needs to be unseated from its groove using a screwdriver and then slides up the taper of the shaft and comes off. That wasn't in the video so I don't have a time for that. 2. the time is 8:41 for what you called the lock jaws. I found they (in my case there is just one) are indeed under spring tension. I used a screwdriver to move mine down so there was no snap. I've got mine apart now and have the new actuator so I'm at the reassembly point. I found a vid where a Mustang owner removes the entire column and replaces both actuators. Not sure why he replaced the rear actuator but if anyone ever needs to do that, that vid is also helpful. He gets to the bearing retaining ring here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rHO9p358n7uHl9Um11s

[@CaptainAmericaYoutube]

I have definitely thought about finding someone local with a need for this repair and remaking the video. When I made this there was nothing else on KZbin on the subject and it was based on a few different things including something similar (but described in text) on a Ford Ranger. I spent at least 24 hours over 3 days figuring everything out (including having to go get things). After all this time and feedback I definitely wouldn't have skipped over as much as I apparently did (including the reassembly). The filing part alone would have helped others to show exactly how far I had to file to get the rod back in. Glad you got passed it and thanks for the link!

[@CaptainAmericaYoutube]

I would also make it in 4k and use multiple cameras to provide multiple angles without the jerkiness there is in spots (or the speed at which it leaves a segment).

[@jmb92555]

Hope I didn't give the wrong impression because your video was the only helpful thing I found on youtube or searching through forums. I'm beginning to wonder now if I didn't imagine that other snap ring. I took another look at the vid I linked to and that wasn't a snap ring, it was that "tolerance ring." I hope there wasn't another snap ring because I couldn't find it tonight when I went out to install the actuator. I haven't had much sleep the last couple days. I'm doing this job on my 96 F150. I've repaired so many things on this truck that I could have made a few movie length vids if I'd been filming the work ;)

[@Carlsthoughts]

I have everything back together other than getting the lock cylinder back into its hole, it’s stupid that I don’t remember how I took the piece out, I know what order they go in and I have the last piece with the gear on it in but I can’t figure out how everything lines up for the key switch to slide in

[@CaptainAmericaYoutube]

I don't know if this helps (I really didn't like that step and wish I would have done more video footage on it) but did you see my note at the very end of the video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jaiTh5WGes17Y80

[@dromendoza]

My car doesn’t have tilt so it’s just two rods holding it in place. Cannot figure out how to get them out so I can slide the top of the housing off.

[@CaptainAmericaYoutube]

What is your vehicle's year, make, and model? Ford is also known for having the tilt be hidden by usually pressing down on the turn signal.

[@dromendoza]

@@CaptainAmericaKZbin it’s a 1997 Ford F150. Base model. No tilt, no cruise control. Super basic.

[@CaptainAmericaYoutube]

@@dromendoza When I made this video I used a lot of logic from Ford Rangers so this might be applicable: kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y6qzm2mIfLWMhcUsi=FkIqFW1z5Sn9vgd7&t=582

[@niclitman7612]

Will the part you're replacing keep the car from turning off? I have no problem starting it, but I have to disconnect the battery to turn the car off

[@CaptainAmericaYoutube]

Sorry that I responded to your newer comment and didn't see this one. Are you still having this issue?

[@rodgerbarnett5826]

can't find the for less than $30. Where can I get it cheaper. Thanx

[@UnoriginalUserNameV2]

Long shot for an answer but what was it doing before you did this job, My ignition is really loose and is not cranking anymore

[@CaptainAmericaYoutube]

In my case I went to turn it off and nothing happened. The van just kept running. At the very start of the video it shows a tan colored box with wires coming out of it (black base) and a metal colored pin sticking out the side. That is pretty easy to find and is held in by two hex screws. That metal pin connects to the actuator rod and you can try cranking the vehicle by moving it over to the side (pliers help but aren't needed). If it cranks from there then the issue is likely the actuator rod broke. I was able to drive for, I think, a few weeks by just unlocking the steering column with the key and manually cranking that box.

[@CaptainAmericaYoutube]

Just to note, taking that box out and cranking the engine does not require disconnecting the battery. The repair itself does require the battery to be disconnected.

[@UnoriginalUserNameV2]

@@CaptainAmericaKZbin I see. Would you think it's my actuator rod with what I'm experiencing? My key made a break sound when i went to turn it on and it stayed at the 3rd stage of ignition but won't turn off or turn on.

[@CaptainAmericaYoutube]

@@UnoriginalUserNameV2 so you can't get the key out of the 3rd stage or can't turn the key out of the 3rd stage?

[@UnoriginalUserNameV2]

@@CaptainAmericaKZbin No i can get the key out but after i turn it back down to the off position, Anything in between The key is inside, Car doesn't feel like it's going through the stage clicks.

[@elise02ma]

How much did you have to file it down? I can’t squeeze mine in there, the more I file I worry it’ll just break once all is back in place

[@CaptainAmericaYoutube]

Melany A I had to file it a decent amount but not too much. I didn't use any power tools so it was a decent amount of work. Once I got it on I never had another issue with it despite the filing. In the video the actuator rod looks flimsy on there but once everything is reassembled there was no issues. Can you give me a link to a photo of your filing work?

[@JonnyAutomotive]

What size pvc pipe did you use ?

[@terrenceforbes5935]

When reinstalling all parts does the green plastic piece inside the ignition cylinder have to "snap" back into place? Or can it just sit there as you reinsert the lock cylinder?

[@CaptainAmericaYoutube]

When I did I didn't have to mess with that green plastic piece. If it looks out it may have popped out a bit (as compared to @4:37 in the video which is where it should be) make sure that it didn't rotate (There is a green tab at the top). If it didn't rotate than you shouldn't have to worry about it unless the lock cylinder isn't going in all the way.

[@terrenceforbes5935]

@@CaptainAmericaKZbin Ok now my issue is putting the little gear wheel back in and its giving me the most trouble. For some reason it's not lining up correctly and when I try to put the cylinder back in it either doesnt want to release my key or not doing a full turn allowing me to put the key in aux position, take out the key or turn forward like I'm going to turn on the car. I need help NOW!

[@CaptainAmericaYoutube]

@@terrenceforbes5935 I apologize as I have meant to highlight a few more comments including ones that talk about the issue you are having right now. When I did the repair I missed out on a few things that would have made the repair easier and thus they are not in the video. One of which was to mark both the gear and the actuator rod (the broken one) with a permanent marker to show which tooth you are supposed to line up in the on position. Then mark the new one in the same spot to make realigning the teeth easier. Another commenter, Flo, posted this which is more inline with where you are at: Flo 4 years ago +Captain America, thank you for the response. I did figure it out, after all. especially the gear setting right was difficult. But I figured out that on the bottom of the searing column there is a little mark on the metal part, that indicates where the whole of the actuator is supposed to be when putting the ignition cylinder in. since there is only one way to insert the cylinder the gear can be se to that position. took me a second to step back and think about it a little more. also important is, that the gear retainer (the little plate) needs to be put in that it can be rotated into position counterclockwise. I was trying to make it work the other way first.

[@frankmondragon9633]

Any videos out there for 2000 expedition same problem

[@CaptainAmericaYoutube]

I apologize for the slow response as I really don't know if there is but as someone did the repair on a 96 Taurus there is a chance that, if the part is similar, you could get to it and do the repair. Obviously, safety first, make sure to know how to properly remove the air bag for your given vehicle. The closest I could find was this video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ponHdoJtps2Nppo Which, at the end of this video you can see the actuator rod (similar to the one I replaced in my video) hanging out. As his repair is different, you might not need to remove the steering column, but that might be easier.

[@frankmondragon9633]

@@CaptainAmericaKZbin thank you so much for your response! I'll check that video out, and may give it a go at it.

[@CaptainAmericaYoutube]

@@frankmondragon9633 As it isn't specific to that part make sure to take photos (and or video) to make it easier to remember where things go. Plus the comments on the page about making it easier to put the ignition assembly back correctly can save a lot of headaches later on.

[@EurekaRecycler]

Can you bypass this thing?

[@waynejump3263]

what was that wire you removed from the ignition switch

[@CaptainAmericaYoutube]

Do you have a video time that has the wire featured then I can look up what the wire is called/for as otherwise I am not sure which one you mean.

[@jmb92555]

I think he means the one for the chime that reminds you the key is in the ignition

[@LikeSugarWithaT]

What about reinstalling the TIlt wheel spring?

[@colinmccubbin4010]

There is a post abut this earlier. Thread several good quality zip ties through the spring, tighten them all up slowly 'till the spring is held in it's compressed condition, (i needed 8) it will then go in. Then cut the zip ties and pull them out. It isn't easy, but it worked for me!

[@161995alex]

how long did you cut your PVC pipe

[@CaptainAmericaYoutube]

Hi Aaron, the length of the PVC pipe is really based on the length of your extender. Underneath the PVC pipe is the extender and all I am doing is tightening the steering wheel retaining bolt (you can use the old one for this step) with a washer between the ratchet wrench and the PVC pipe with the extender able to go through the center hole (so that as the retaining bolt is tightened (only needs to be partial tightened) the PVC is pushing the snap ring against the spring until it is back to the original position as it was at 6:54 in the video right after removing the turn cam ). Thus the length of the PVC pipe must be cut so that it supports that compression (just enough so that you can start to tighten the retaining bolt but not much more as you want it to push on the snap ring soon after you start to tighting the retaining bolt). After you get the spring compressed you can remove the retaining bolt. Let me know if this answers your question or if I need to clarify anything. I would go with your longest extension available so that you have a decent amount of pipe to cut on.

[@161995alex]

Thanks that was very helpful. And now I am trying to get the tilt wheel spring with not much luck. Any suggestions?

[@CaptainAmericaYoutube]

I sadly did not get that back on but to quote one of the comments below: noothernameisavail 3 years ago Forgot to mention that the tilt spring can be compressed quite nicely with zip ties! Have to evenly tighten them as you go or they will slide to one side. Had five zip ties before I got it compressed evenly and tight enough to easily go in place. Cut the ties and pull them out... Another note: noothernameisavail also noted that using the PVC pipe can be hammered (I would recommend a soft mallet) instead of the bolt on strategy I used. Eventually I hope to make a new version of this in 4k that takes in the advice and experience of all the comments to ensure a more clear path to performing the repair.

[@Bretandmarisa]

This video saved me! Thank you so much. Even with a slightly different van I was able to work through it an come out successful. Thank you for making this awesome tutorial

[@jessereed7410]

What did u file down the rod or the thing it attaches 2

[@CaptainAmericaYoutube]

I think I either used Sand Paper or a cheap metal file from Harbor Freights. Took way longer than I would have liked. Today I would probably use a Dremel with a sand paper bit, or a drill with a sand paper bit, and put the rod into a vice.

[@jessereed7410]

@@CaptainAmericaKZbin ok it in but i cant get the fack back on

[@jaime20001]

Saben donde puedo conseguir ese actuador..!!! Soy de la Ciudad de México

[@CaptainAmericaYoutube]

[phone], [phone], [phone] Pruebe estos concesionarios de Ford o concesionarios de Google Ford cerca de su ubicación.

[@jaime20001]

Captain America gracias por su apoyo