Ford EEC-IV No Spark Diagnostics

In this video I will walk you through a no-spark diagnosis on this old school EEC-IV ignition system, but don't let the age of the truck lead you to believe that the tests shown are no longer relevant. The techniques I use on the system, I am still using on todays cars!
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Disclaimer:
Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. ScannerDanner LLC assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. ScannerDanner LLC recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of ScannerDanner LLC, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not ScannerDanner LLC.

[@marchantdj3307]

Doing electrical part of my course, this helps so much thank you mang 🙏🏾

[@jeffreywilsonrubikscubeonb2428]

Merchant DJ there is no better teacher than Scannerdanner for getting thru the electrical part of any automotive course. Even his oldest material is light years ahead of modern curriculum as far as detail and clear easy to understand approach. Thanks to Scannerdanner, I was eventually hired as a diagnostic trainer and had to go back to my old trade school and do a seminar on labscope diagnostics to all of my old automotive instructors 😎 pretty hard to beat that feeling lol. Thanks again Paul!!!

[@ScannerDanner]

Thank you so much guys!

[@bartsarton2212]

It's amazing how Caleb can now anticipate what you are going to say and point the camera where it needs to be without you even telling him. Great job guys!

[@ScannerDanner]

This was an editing gem my friend. He definitely is getting better at keeping up, but we both think of the editing and what we need while filming and Caleb then works his magic afterwards. You have no idea the level of expertise he now has. Your comment proves it as you couldn't even tell the amount of editing that went into some of those captures. 😉 Props to my son! Thanks for the comment, I'm going to share this with him.

[@farmermiyagi1338]

Aw hell, now you're in my early days. When I started in auto repair, there were more carbs on the road than there was fuel injection. Actually Gm went to TBI in the Silverados the year I started my career. This is the stuff I cut my teeth on. ;)

[@billrimmer5596]

Man the good old days when we used to go to LaTours garage and you’d b out in the parking lot with your truck backed up to the car. Tripod for a lot of the vid. But we would get the shot of the burned O2 wire laying on the exhaust manifold. I love all those old vids!! And I go back and watch them regularly. There’s gold in them there vids!!

[@paulfiebke3909]

Love watching you do what you do. Hope you and your brother and son and his baby is all well. Keep me in your prayers I'm having having heart problems again and I'll be going back to hospital for heartsergry again. God bless you all and keep up the good work

[@isalmankhan1]

Our well wishes are with you & pray for your good health🙏

[@OvertheHills]

Nice. I recently fixed an intermittent hesitation/no start in my 1988 Bronco II (that I bought new in 1987) by replacing the distributor. I used a break-out box and oscilloscope to monitor the PIP and SPOUT voltages, and the primary ignition current at the coil. When it died the PIP voltage decreased and took out the SPOUT and primary ignition completely. One of your earlier videos clued me in to the likelihood of the distributor Hall effect sensor being the likely culprit, so many thanks for that.

[@Paul1958R]

Paul, Great diagnosis/explanation on the good old EEC-IV - thank you! Those PIP units are such a pain to replace as you need to remove the distributor gear which is pinned and pressed on. Probably replacing the entire distributor is the most cost effective solution. Paul (in MA)

[@tracydiller9378]

Great diagnostic video on a good old Ford.Never get tired of these diagnostics videos.Stay safe everyone.

[@exmotorsports]

It's been awhile since I've seen you work/diag on one of these old trucks. Great stuff bro. Done many of those pick up coils..Had a feeling that's where this was going when you said a new coil and IGM already been shot at it. 😄 Surprisingly these PIPs are still available yet from Ford (E9TZ12A112A) I have found a few things that are getting hard to find tho. Thanks again Paul and of course..if she's still reading all the comments. "Hi Mom"... Hope your doing well. Wanna see you in another video again soon. take care. ☺

[@kd7cwg]

Had this happen to a friends 95 mustang. #1 injector will also not be commanded when the pip fails.

[@grabovg]

When I was 16 I used to have to start my 88 Ford ranger by jumping the solenoid connections with a screwdriver. It was a manual. one time I left it in gear and it drove into a telephone pole 🤦‍♂️

[@khatokhato9350]

Yes cars are extremely dangerous when caught someone on surprise. Any individual is exposed to risk of injury when mishandled.

[@throttlebottle5906]

LOL 🤣😝

[@kd7cwg]

I had to that to my 83 mustang gt. Grabbed the linkage to give a little throttle while cranking….. got a decent jolt 😬.

[@johnhicks2277]

Truck sitting for 2 weeks, replaced all you mentioned, now distributor. Thanks so much!

[@ScannerDanner]

did you fix it then?

[@johnhicks2277]

@@ScannerDanner going to do distributor today. Just gotta get on it! I let you know, pretty confident after watching your video, Thanks again 👍

[@johnhicks2277]

Thanks much scanner Man, put new distributor in and fired right up. I know who I'm looking up on next mishap. Thanks much!

[@cullenmiller8170]

Nice video. That fan without the shroud can ruin your day quickly. Specially for all the people wearing hoodies and draw strings swinging around. I worked with a guy that was putting a fuel filter on a crane and was holding on to the radiator shroud to support himself and the operator pushed the starter button. I was really impressed with the guy not choking the operator with his other good hand. His nick name was big Al and he was a hand to hand combat instructor in the Marine Corps. 😁😁

[@JoesAutoElectric]

Nice brother., Like you, I have worked on tons of the EEC IV systems. You can change the pickup on them, but the time involved to take apart the distributor isn't worth it. I think the puller kit is still someplace at the my shop for these.

[@billrimmer5596]

Nice to c another super tech Joe’s Auto Electric comment. I never missed any of your vids. Watched them all. Miss your content. U always had good stories to tell.

[@alb12345672]

Never use aftermarket distributor caps :lol:. I bought a wells one when I first got the 85 crown vic in the mid 90s to do a full tuneup and I had nothing but problems. Then I pulled the center post and the whole terminal came out of the distributor. I fixed it with wire ties to get home. I put the old motocraft one back and returned the POS. Learned my lesson about aftermarket parts.

[@petar443]

Hey Joe. Liked your videos a lot. I remember that most of them were very interesting because were tricky to diagnose or because somebody already "worked" on them . 🚬

[@erikkirby1]

ah the ford module!!! was it a 7/32 socket or a 9/32 socket? and you had to grind it down all the way around to fit in the hole!!!!... never forget dy-electric grease between the module and the heat sink!!!

[@kd7cwg]

Kept one of the module tools, a spare module, and a tube of arctic silver in the glove box in the mustang 🤣

[@isalmankhan1]

WoW amazing SD, you made it look so easy to fix, Superb as usual👍 I've never worked on these, bcuz when I started as a Tech most of these were probably parked permanently, but I've always wished to master these previous gen systems, they're fun to work on😉 Special Thanks to Caleb & James Danner👍 Stay Safe Guy's❤

[@thogevoll]

That's handy, a ratchet hammer. That electrical diagram brings back memories of when my son had an ignition problem with an old Ford Ranger 4-banger. It would not start with the SPOUT wire connected but it ran fine if you first started the engine and then connected the SPOUT wire. Never did figure it out he ran the truck like that until some lady fell asleep at the wheel on the DC beltway, t-boned his truck and totaled it.

[@jessemedina4482]

I have an 89 F250 and 89 Lincoln Mark VII. I'm becoming an expert in these systems quickly.. both vehicles had a habit of just quitting unpredictably and then coming back to life after cooldown. Considering a remote mount kit for my ignition modules if they fail again.

[@woodyk5127]

Hello, Thank you first of all for posting all these excellent videos. You are clearly an expert mechanic that is very hard to find these days as most mechanics these days don't have the knowledge of how things work and all what they do is change parts. I have a real good one for you. I have a 1991 F150 5.8L engine with 123k miles on it that I bought from a chief pilot at United Airline. Anyway, I drove the truck over 800 miles and drove like brand new. I parked it for a week and when I tried to start it, it wouldn't start. I watched your video and I said to myself I can follow your method to figure out the problem. Note that About 2 months ago, the ECM went bad and I took the ECM out and was able to fix it and it was the same issue with the capacitors going bad. Anyway, I followed your approach looking to decide whether I have spark at the coil. To my surprise, there was a spark at the coil but not much at the spark plugs so I replaced distributor cap and rotor but to my surprise, the engine still wouldn't start even though I have a spark at spark plugs end. So now I am thinking I have a fuel problem but giving that I have dual tank, it is highly unlikely that both pumps are bad. Hence, I replaced the fuel filter and again the truck failed to start no matter how much I cranked it. Next , using a new fuel pressure gauge, I measured the fuel pressure and it was around 41 PSI so fuel is no longer a possible problem and I am out of options till I disconnected the 2 hoses to air filter and noticed that intake is completely closed. So now I started to think that may be the fuel mixture and spark plugs are flooded giving all the attempts to start it for the last 7 days. To make the story short, I pressed on gas pedal all the way which forced intake to be wide open to outside air and not going through air filter and after few attempts, the truck finally started. It ran rough for the first 30 minutes of drivings and after that the truck is back now running like brand new, idles and drives beautifully. I am glad the truck is running again but have no idea what caused the no start problem in the first place. This only happened to me once before but the truck started back then after letting it sit for few hours but not this time. One thing to note is when the truck was sitting for a week outside we had very high humidity for few days but not sure if humidity is a factor. I would very much appreciate your input on what really was the problem. Again, thanks to you, not only i was able to get the truck going without having to wait 10 days for the dealer to look at but I am sure I also saved myself over $1000. The dealers in Chicago area charge extra 25% if your vehicle is old and many don't want to work on it. Look forward to your reply, ANJ P.S. Are your classes available online to take? If not why not? I would live to take your classes. Also, do you do remote consulting for a fee?

[@ScannerDanner]

Was there a difference in the spark at the plugs after the cap and rotor was done? Weak spark could definitely cause a flooded condition and the clear flood crank was what you needed to do after restoring proper spark. Hard to say. What did you say was in the intake??

[@woodyk5127]

@@ScannerDanner There was nothing in the intake. I was referring to the metal plate that sits on the inside of the intake and opens and closes with the depressing of the gas pedal and functions like choke I think. I am very much interested in taking your classes if you have them online like KZbin or using zoom. Thank you again, ANJ

[@woodyk5127]

I forget to answer your question and I don't think there was a big noticeable difference in the spark after changing distributor cap and rotor. I am planning on doing tuneup as it has been a while since existing spark plugs and wires have been replaced.

[@ScannerDanner]

@@woodyk5127 oh okay, that makes more sense. Thanks! My classes are all available on my website at www.scannerdanner.com I have over 450 hours of training available for $11 a month. Hope to see you there!

[@ScannerDanner]

@@woodyk5127 okay, there are other causes for flooded conditions too, one in particular to pay attention to is the engine coolant temp sensor. Google how to get flash codes from your truck, it was a really weird procedure and involved using a test light and a jumper wire but I don't remember how to do it. See if you have a code for the ECT

[@jarvishill1007]

A very appropriate teaching with experience and safety. To augment (Naval Aviation Electronics Advanced Maintenance) working radar, experienced a common FAILURE caused by a weakening magnetic FAILURE! With an elderly motor, it's likely the same weakening of the magnetic field of the distributor rotor shaft is getting below the engineered limits of the HALL EFFECT (a semiconductor) to perform. That limit would be sensitive and influenced by a variety of varying influences, creating the "confusion" of intermittent! (Heat of varying mechanical spacing, heat effecting magnetic strength, heat effecting the sensitivity of the HALL EFFECT semiconductor AND the COMBINATIONS, etc.)

[@williamreed1493]

Bro, I don't know jack about auto electrical but your changing that! Freakin love the videos!! Keep the amazing job!!

[@ScannerDanner]

Thank you William! Glad you're here

[@dennisthomas4766]

I did a 92 f150 5.0 no spark 2 years ago no spark. The first thing I did was pull the distributor cap and the inside of the distributor was alot of rust inside so I replaced that it started and ran but with 200,000 miles on it I replaced module and coil so there wouldn't be any problems.

[@tarandeiniol3092]

Thank you I'll check mine having same issue on foxbody I relocated ignition module behind strut tower but had my bolted down lol

[@throttlebottle5906]

ignition module not cleanly mounted on heatsink(with thermal transfer grease) will overheat and die in mere seconds to minutes, depending on ambient temps. overzealous screw tightening, can warp the heatsink and module both, making them not have good contact except at the outer edges and yet again self kill in short order! been there done that, long ago. many of the GM setups had the same issue, with module on heatsink near coil and internal distributor mounted ones, both. after the factory module died, a "yinyang" often repaired and caused the replacement to fail quickly(did that once also), but being into electronics and most all mechanicals, I figured out my err real fast :)

[@jeffreyyoung4104]

I would pull the fan belt for troubleshooting as it should not get hot in 3 to 5 minutes of running, and you can pull on wires and pound on modules safely. Of course, reinstall it once you are done!

[@jeffreywilsonrubikscubeonb2428]

Love it when my notification has a blue dot glowing on SD 😎 Can we hope for a Saturday vid also?? 😉😎

[@PistonShack]

Seems like we might see new 2020 Ford Bronco models on your channel guys as well, probably soon) Great video!

[@joeidaho5938]

They have the same name...and it ends there. These old guys are trucks you can fix and maintain on your own....with a few tools in the back of the truck. Blatantly not the case with anything new. Same name....but that's where it really ends.

[@joetuktyyuktuk8635]

Sometimes the connection to the ignition module, the Pip connection can be corroded... placing your tester in the connector sometimes scrapes just enough of the corrosion away to allow it to run... just a thought.

[@richardcranium5839]

the sad truth is the parts are still available and so cheap its almost worth it to shoot the parts cannon because most of todays techs never worked on these and the diag labor alone will be the same as the parts

[@xephael3485]

I'd have probably looked at distributor first... always seem to be the issue.

[@Lambros_Stefaneas]

In some cases, it's absolutely true what you are saying.....

[@alb12345672]

@@xephael3485 I had a similar issue with a wells aftermarket distributor cap. Not hard to diagnose though, the center terminal just pulled right out

[@jamesd6247]

It's true, those old mustangs have that system and it's parts galore. New high performance parts being made, replacement computer systems being built for the user to program and tweak. An automotive community in its own.

[@alb12345672]

@@jamesd6247 On my 85 crown vic CFI I remember how complicated diagnostics were. You could have a bad EGR solenoid and the car would stall intermittently, etc. No datastream either. You really had to know your electronics and voltages. I really learned a ton from that car, many years ago but solid basic skills that you could use today.

[@TheBadasspony]

Awesome!! Same problem with my 88 ford tbird..great video!!!

[@CANDiagnostic]

Brilliant thought process as always

[@murraykriner9425]

Rudimentary electric knowledge is required for type IV systems. Great job waking up that old girl. Sure she'll be better than new after the Hall-effects is replaced.

[@josephwash109]

The wiring diagram shows that the PCM can monitor the coil negative terminal through a 22K resistor. It would be interesting to see if it set a DTC. Also, given the high idle speed, I figure the base ignition timing is over advanced.

[@jamesmiller5160]

I have a 1997 f350 dually 460, I’ve tested the wiring down the grey orange wire to ensure continuity to the computer from the ignition control module, I tested with a test light both sides of the coil -+ sides and have voltage there, i tried jumping the pip wire with the test light as shown in the video and using the coil wire and spark tester i get no spark, when i unplug the icm jumper plug i get spark, the icm has power to it and it is a black module not grey, originally i swapped a distributor out of my other truck that runs and still had no spark nor injector trigger, i did also swap out my eec with the same running truck and still at the same result. I’ve ensured all the fuses have power and the eec computer has power and ground. I’m sure I’m missing something obvious, I’m open for any questions

[@davidessien5465]

Scannerdanner I would love to be like you

[@smoothrelaxation9221]

Hi ScannerDanner Is there any posibility I could get a link to buy Relay jump starter kit.I am living in uk.I tryied Amozon Ebay I couldn`t find the same stuff.I really like your videos.Great stuuff.

[@karlswanseen7526]

Great diagnostics, thank you, but… 92’ e350 5.8l, diagnostics pointed to bad ICM, replaced and same results. Read to pull PCM harness plug and test for spark, it did spark indicating bad PCM. Pulled and opened PCM and sure enough one of the blue transistors(?) corroded and came off when touched.

[@Matthewjo22]

Awesome video, thanks man

[@PaulCTownsend]

Also hooking up a battery charger on medium can uncover a defective hall effect. Charging system voltage versus battery.

[@steveedwards1072]

That’s the stuff I learned on. Oh, good times. Peace

[@nm-qt2hb]

You should always pop the cap off the distributor and verify rotor rotation. It was not uncommon to see a broke or twisted distributor driveshaft or gear fail.

[@kd7cwg]

Seen a couple cases where the roll pin sheared. Had one that ran , just no power. Found out by pulling cap and could turn the rotor by hand. Didn’t have a timing light at the time to know

[@nm-qt2hb]

@@kd7cwg The valve stem seals would get old and brittle. As they broke in small tiny pieces, they collected in the oil pan. Some of them would get passed through the oil pump pick up screen and jam up in-between the two gears. The oil pump hex drive shaft would twist like a corkscrew then break. Sometimes they didn't break and the timing would be way off and run like shit. Sometimes the shear pin would also break and take out the gear drive. Drop the oil pan, clean it out and replace the parts. The permanent fix was to replace the valve stem seals with ones made out of Viton. They were good for up to 600f degrees.

[@shanethissell2136]

I ran all these checks and it was extremely helpful. So glad there are people like you out there to provide this simple yet extremely effective information out there and to do it for free! But I do have one question, I’m testing on a 97 f250 5.8 and was checking with a test light on the coil positive and negative wires for that flicker you talk about, I have flicker on the negative side but not the positive. Does this indicate anything that you know of? Or is this normal? Again thanks for this I’ll definitely be subscribing and following and pass along to anyone else I know, cause this was very basic, the tools used are cheap and the basic knowledge like you said is invaluable and spreads across all makes, models and years. Greatly appreciated!

[@ScannerDanner]

Coil positive should be steady and coil negative should pulse. Is that what you see and you don't have spark?

[@shanethissell2136]

I have coil positive steady and pulse on the negative and the truck seems to be running and starting fine now…I think what happened was when I went to do this test and I shoved the test light probe into the positive side of the coil and attempted to start it, it fired right up and has been working fine now for the last couple hours and several starts and stops.

[@ScannerDanner]

@shanethissell2136 okay, yeah this test is only helpful during the no spark condition. Thanks!

[@moneymikesupplymusic]

Hey Paul, I noticed that when you dropped the paper on the ground at 2:10 - 2:20 the paper was still clean. That tells me the oil spill was dry from a different vehicle.

[@frobles21]

Help trouble shoot issue: 1994 Ford F-150 5.0 automatic. Issue: running rich, allot of black smog coming from the exhaust and strong smell of gas. Does not seem to be switching gears, RPM are almost hitting 4,000 running at 55 mph. Parts I’ve changed so far; - EGR Valve - cleaned out the Trottle body - TPS sensor - IAC sensor - O2 sensor - PCV Valve - MAF sensor - distributor - plugs - ignition coil - ICM - air filter - fuel pump front and rear - canister purge valve - vacuum lines - oil change - Temp Sensor - fuel pressure regulator

[@fulgenciomarcos9350]

Love your videos. Thanks !

[@chriscrusader5412]

What I am really learning here is that your Brother needs to take your class!? I am sure he would be your top student! lol jk. Dude is awesome. Wish you did more work on these old Fords because I am always working on my Dad's 1988 F-150 I6 4.9L.

[@khatokhato9350]

Some years ago I owned vaz 2109. It had ignition module generating square wave signals upon hall sensor pulses. It was mentioned in the manual to ensure the hull of module securely fastened to the car body. So I sometimes applied multimeter lead to the hull of module and the other to the car body. In case of poor contact with the body it showed some value. And the second, in case of bad contact with the battery the module unrecoverably damaged. So it was prohibited to unfasten the battery leads when engine is running. I remember I touched the insulation sheath of central wire with bare hand while engine running and have some discharge run through me, some moments engine was choking and then recovered. I was wondering that the sheath of a hot wire carries some high potential charge on its surface and could harm someone if exposed or touched.

[@user-xm5qs4dj3p]

معلم يا سكان ❤❤❤❤❤

[@genelineberger2205]

I have no power to cab no headlights nothing had smoke under dash ground wire for windshield wipers burnt down caused issue good battery any thoughts thanks

[@jdtractorman7445]

I think back in the day if the TFI module was deemed bad Ford recommended changing the pick up coil in the distributor as well. I don't remember why, maybe if one fails it takes out the other or something, not sure exactly. At least this one is over near the fender and not mounted to the distributor. Ford had a huge recall on those because of heat failures making them conk out. I think in later years it was moved to where this one is. Those pickups are replaceable but you have to pull the distributor, take the roll pin out that holds the gear on and take the old one off and install new. I can't remember if the gear was a press fit or not.

[@Maples01]

California sued Ford for this system over failures putting vehicles on the side of the road. Earn the name found on road dead.

[@paulward2947]

So what would the problem be if you've already replaced the pickup coil the ignition coil the ignition module and it still has no spark? I can induce spark with a pin stuck into the PIP wire and a test light off the negative side of the battery... I can also produce spark with the old ignition module plugged into the trucks wiring harness and the old pickup coil plugged into that and running my pocket knife blade through the pick-up coil.. but when I pulled the distributor out of the motor and plug that into the trucks wiring harness and ground the distributor to the battery using a jumper cable it gets no spark however I did notice that by touching the distributor housing with the grounded battery cable it creates park in the same way the test light create spark when touched against the PIP wire.

[@rcrobertson9563]

The pick-up is available. You have to remove the distributor gear and shaft to replace it.

[@Trev-fl1oe]

Hi Mr danner I have a ford in Australia 93 model using same ecu 4 in a 6.i done all in vid only thing with mine is spourt only 1.34 v at dizzy connector and at pin on ecu. Every thing else is in spec still won't fire but has spark from coil with lead and plug as soon as you hook it to distributor no spark.down test light on pip fired pump relay injectors but no spark.is it pick up ,ecu.just ask for your opion im trying not to be a part changer.peace

[@fordrolet3983]

What if I have spark at the coil? Any suggestions

[@byrd203]

if its a manual transmission and your worried just make sure your in neutral and parking break set along with wheel chocks or on a wheel stand meaning truck is not on its wheels

[@jedk9523]

my 89 f250 is having the same issue, i havent tested it but vvould it be a distribuator?

[@steveross9058]

Still no start. Still buying parts. I think it’s my coil spark quality. Coil sparks great to ground but will not spark to distributor cap. Maybe spark quality is not correct?

[@waqasazmat81]

Hey Paul, real quick. How do we find out if the hall effect signal is a pull up or pull down? As always appreciate your time and your videos filled with knowledge and humor. :)

[@ScannerDanner]

Unfortunately this information is not really available and most wiring diagrams do not include the ECM internals, so the only way to know is to unplug a known good one and measure the signal wire voltage with the key on. High voltage = pull-down Low voltage = pull-up Watch the videos I linked in the cards too on hall effect testing. Thanks!

[@ArniAtlason]

I have no ground to this module, trying to figure it out why. This video did help but more work is needed. Why no ground to the module is the question.

[@ScannerDanner]

I have more EECIV diag videos that deal with the ignition system. In fact I have a playlist

[@ArniAtlason]

@@ScannerDanner You are amazing answering me Thank you. I will watch them.

[@Pablo_Automotive]

Thank a lot for share team Danner

[@alrifainidal]

lovely video. smart man

[@labrat6910]

Your videos are awesome.Thanx S.D.How often do you work on Mercedes bro?

[@ScannerDanner]

On occasion

[@arthurbright1625]

I'm helping a friend who has the same problem he has changed everything pick up coal Ignation module and coil and still no spark but you can hear the fuel pump run what would you do

[@ScannerDanner]

New parts means nothing. Do some testing, then I can help

[@steveh7108]

I thought the way to test the coil power side was ignition on test lead grounded and probe the backside of the power as you did. But I thought the way to test the negative side was to put the test light on the positive terminal of the battery and then probe the negative coil wire and then turn the motor over and it should flash on and off. Please correct me if I'm wrong. But just checking them the way you did didn't seem to prove anything.

[@ScannerDanner]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/oHvQopeencmojMU Watch this one, then we can talk further. And if you're really feeling like you need more, watch these. kzbin.info/www/bejne/gpXRn3l6a69ri9E kzbin.info/www/bejne/j3OoaJZtocugpLs kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y4uqfaKJiNSqj7s

[@fire7765]

Great video.

[@justindurkee1472]

I have a question and need some guidance. When the key is on, engine off, the back side of the ICM where the thermal paste is applied gets so hot within seconds that you’ll burn yourself. 95 ford f150 302, 5.0 Any ideas?

[@ScannerDanner]

That means it is grounding the coil continuously. Not much will cause that except for crap parts

[@geronimoescobedo6960]

Great info!!

[@steveross9058]

I have a coil spark to ground, enough to stop your heart, but nothing to distributor , hence no spark at plugs. Any help? And of course, ty

[@ScannerDanner]

Rotor burn through possibly. It happens sometimes where is grounds through the distributor shaft

[@davidreynolds4684]

On my 90 f150 4.9 liter the ice is mounted on the distributor. I should be able to connect my test light to the pos on the battery and probe to the pip wire(being the top wire?) and with a spark tester between the distributor and coil I should see a spark. Correct? I've been leaning toward the pickup coil being my no spark issue

[@ScannerDanner]

Yes, top wire is the PIP signal that is basically your hall effect signal or pickup. With the key on, measure voltage there first. It will depend on where one of the hall shutters is, as to if the signal voltage is high or low. If it's low, yes, test light to B+ and pull it high If it's high, then test light to ground and pull it low Make sense?

[@PaulCTownsend]

Great info.

[@MitzvosGolem1]

These trucks were alot of weird issues. I found they have to throw a 1 inch hot spark or will never start. Change the module in distributor . One kid replaced everything would not start and it had good spark by not enough to run. Bizarre. Some had to have coil actually grounded and often rust would cause it not to Start in 80s. I hate these Fords. Excellent videos Thanks alot.

[@joeidaho5938]

I've got a 92 and it runs endlessly. Only time I ever had a problem was when the rotor finally wore out and needed to be replaced. The drivetrain is incredibly sturdy on these trucks...and the simplicity is a great thing. Not hard to rebuild anything on these trucks, if one puts their mind to it. I'll be driving my truck for at least another 20 plus years after recently doing a rebuild of both the engine and tranny....virtually everything done on my own except the machine shop work on the core of the engine. That's the real beauty of these trucks. They'll outlast anything new on the streets these days....because no one wants to pay huge repairs when current vehicles get into higher mileage. You won't be fixing them at home....so they'll get crushed.

[@MitzvosGolem1]

@@joeidaho5938 you are lucky . I have so many come in shop. Frames rotted on box section next to front axel strut. 302 v8 was good . 300 l6 terrible EFI issues . Happy you are good.

[@joeidaho5938]

@@MitzvosGolem1 Ya...the frame is the key to longevity. I've been trying to protect mine...slowly applying rust paint or some kind of protection. I know the engine and tranny will always last longer than the frame on these trucks. My engine is also now at 40 over on the bores but just rebuilt it with upgrades. Life has to end at some point...lol. I'm just hoping it's good for another 20 years or so. Thanks for your response. Cheers!

[@MitzvosGolem1]

@@joeidaho5938 the pre efi Ford's are good. We live in salt belt near snow and ocean so Toyotas all frames rotted . I like the 79 Ford's simple . Glad to hear your rig is ok. We spray frame undersides with Krown oil from Canada. It's like a waxy oil never comes off and no rust. Don't use tar rubber undercoating is bad. Holds water behind and hides rust. Use oil grease. Many use bar and chainsaw oil in North . Cheers

[@joeidaho5938]

@@MitzvosGolem1 We're in a bit of a salt belt also here in Toronto....with constant salt on roads, sidewalks, mall parking lots and so on. I've only been back in Toronto for 6 years, as I got my truck out in the Vancouver area where I lived for 25 yrs. There are still so many out there....and they use sand on the roads mostly, thankfully. It's absolutely rare that I see anything pre-1995 on the road here in Toronto. The truck is definitely a rarity here. As far as the efi, mine runs fine, on the whole, although after my rebuild I have a little bit of tuning to do. I think it's the issue of needing to install a spacer on the idle air control to allow more air to get in when first warming up the truck. It wants to stall when the revs first drop off after the initial idling. I end up having to keep my foot on the gas for about 30 seconds and then it's warm enough to have a steady idle. Still surges just a little bit but not a real issue. I also didn't reinstall the pipe coming from the lower intake to the egr valve that then pumps back into the upper intake (plenum). Instead, I installed a small air filter on a pipe from the egr so it pulls in clean air, rather than air from the lower intake. Changes the balance of air a little bit, but that pipe from the lower intake is a royal pain in the ass after I installed an Edelbrock upper and lower intake.

[@sissy99098]

So what is the purpose of pulling the shaft

[@ScannerDanner]

If you have to replace the pickup coil inside of the distributor, you have to pull the shaft out of the housing

[@timothymckern8956]

I have a 1994 F250 7.5 I don't have any Spark I'm coming from the coil I have power coming from the red and green wire but no power coming from them white and yellow

[@Ruskaga]

The ignition module in my 87 T-Bird is on the distributor and over the years I've had two of them fail while driving. Are there kits for remote-mounting them?

[@jameshaliday1929]

all hail the great dan

[@ScannerDanner]

🤣

[@steamy1225]

Will this test work on the older duraspark ignition on Fords?

[@ScannerDanner]

The control testing with a test light? Yes, absolutely

[@mr.technician4144]

Hehehe!!! I'm waiting if you draw a schematic diagram of what you are doing by that test light sir.....thank you sir for new knowledge god bless

[@steveross9058]

My coil voltage is too low to jump the spark from my rotor to the cap. It jumps about 1/16 of a inch

[@ScannerDanner]

Okay, next step is an amperage waveform on the primary circuit with a scope, but I'm sure you don't have that, so it will be a little bit more tricky to identify to cause. Low voltage on coil positive, high resistance on coil negative, a bad coil itself, a faulty ignition module or a bad ignition module ground can all give you weak spark

[@OzarksBoy-g8n]

What if I can’t get my PIP wire to generate a spark at the coil?

[@ScannerDanner]

Powers and grounds on the ICM good? What about coil + voltage?

[@OzarksBoy-g8n]

@@ScannerDanner I have not checked the voltage at the coil. The ICM is new. I replaced it and the distributor at the same time. Truck started and ran, idled down and then died. Wasn’t able to restart it. Noticed that one wire in the distributor harness was heating up, so I checked coil control again, and it didn’t flash.

[@kgomotsoboshomane3024]

hey where can i get car wiring diagrams for computer or is there any app?

[@ScannerDanner]

eautorepair.adtrk.biz/?a=10817&c=24&p=r&s1= This is the DIY version of what I use

[@XalvaroramosX]

MASTER

[@mbs5328]

Why does Mr. Danner hesitate to set the parking brake on an older car?

[@kd7cwg]

If it is never used in the rust belt, good chance it will get stuck on. Even on my silhouette, from as after being in Ohio awhile started hanging just a bit. Only reason I found this out, is that I had the rear off the ground to work on something else!

[@sanelelukhele4849]

Hi Paul and everyone, I know question is not related to video. Can by any chance a scan tool(cheap) damage pcm I've heard so saying it does any info on that

[@ScannerDanner]

I don't think so my friend

[@markhava6491]

Thanks great info. Got all the goodies. Still no spark. What’s the next check?

[@ScannerDanner]

What does your test light (incandescent) do on coil positive and coil negative

[@markhava6491]

@@ScannerDanner with the key on, and test light on ground, the red wire lights up, the light green wire does not, but it sparked at he connection when i touched it, like it's a bad contact on the coil.??

[@markhava6491]

Watched your video 4 times, making all the checks, just missing something...all the fuses are good, cleaned all the connections, got the spark tester, and the remote ignition, can't trigger a spark by tricking the pip wire with 12v either. going crazy.

[@ScannerDanner]

@@markhava6491 it could be? Both sides of that coil should be lit with the key on

[@ScannerDanner]

@markhava6491 if your connections are good, you have one of 2 things going on. 1. Coil negative is being grounded all the time, making your test light not light when connected to ground. 2. Your primary coil winding is open (bad coil). To confirm, with key one and coil positive showing you that the test light lights and coil negative showing you it doesn't. Switch your test light to battery positive and recheck. Tell me what you see. It's important that the key stays on and you confirm coil positive stays hot so we don't get a backfeed when we check coil negative with the test light to battery positive

[@madfab7132]

I have the same issue in my 85 f150 would it be the same problem?

[@ScannerDanner]

It's possible

[@davidreynolds4684]

Did you feel like Dr Frankinford there for a second when it started? I heard a high pitched squeak and and thud sound like a door slamming. I suspect it was your lower unit slamming shut!

[@ScannerDanner]

Lol don't know who that is or what you're talking about here

[@davidreynolds4684]

@@ScannerDanner the look on your face when the truck started was like in young Frankenstein when the monster came to life. Dr Frankenstein/ ford truck back from the dead= Dr Frankenford

[@calastiels6733]

Hey I have a question, I was recalibration my tps, when I noticed my top wire(blk/w) was acting as my signal wire. So I tested the ACT and ECT to find they were acting as my signal wire. This is on a 1990 ford bronco II 2.9l. Do you have any suggestions?

[@ScannerDanner]

Give me the readings on all 3 tps wires

[@calastiels6733]

Green 5.05v, bk/w 1.07, o/w 0.00. When engaging the throttle the bk/w goes up in value like a signal wire, based on the diagrams though, it should be a ground.

[@BobBlystone]

How did you do the bypass?

[@ScannerDanner]

Test light to ground and touch on the PIP wire on and off with the key on. Test light to power next if the ground test doesn't work. (Depends on where the trigger wheel stopped in the distributor for the pick up on what polarity to use for your test light)

[@joeyv1969]

Great video!!! I have a gremlin in a ‘94 F-150, truck went to a local shop to get running. It didn’t have spark. Distributor was changed, truck started, was running fine, I drove it home. Truck died. Would not start. The mechanic came days later. Truck started about a dozen times or so. We cycled the key on and off (to hear fuel pump prime) about 5 times or so, truck died again, no spark, no fuel pump prime. Any ideas? Everyone baffled, I’m not mechanically inclined. Thanks!!

[@ScannerDanner]

no prime, no spark at the same time? you need to focus on the ECM powers and grounds and 5v reference circuit. I bet when this happens you have no 5v ref on your TPS or MAP sensor

[@joeyv1969]

@@ScannerDanner thanks for the info, this truck has many baffled. Going to check this out. The shop was thinking it was a faulty distributor/pick up coil

[@ScannerDanner]

@@joeyv1969 absolutely not! A faulty pickup will NOT cause a loss of fuel pump prime. It will keep the fuel pump from turning back on during cranking, but the key on initial prime will still be there!

[@joeyv1969]

@@ScannerDanner are you anywhere near Wyoming Pennsylvania? Lol. I need you to figure this truck out. Seriously, thanks for the info. Your videos are great. Love seeing the OBS Fords being worked on

[@feeneysmechanical6215]

Pull the Spout connector see if it starts

[@steveross9058]

Ok Paul, after praying again, I unplugged the idle control valve and it started. If I plug it in it dies. Steve

[@ScannerDanner]

Can you keep it running with your foot on the gas pedal?

[@steveross9058]

@@ScannerDanner no sir! I bought another ic valve from auto zone today and so far it’s fixed.

[@steveross9058]

@@ScannerDanner the spark from the coil is so weak it only jumps maybe a 1/16 of a inch if the icv is plugged in, Unplug it and bang, big time spark,

[@ScannerDanner]

@@steveross9058 how strange!

[@PxssyGalore]

To get to the " Distributor Ignition Pickup" you have to take the distributor completely apart. Believe it or not you can get the part online, really cheap. But I found it to be quicker if you just drop in a new distributor. That's why I love Fords, you can get practically any and every part online. Their parts are almost always cheaper than any other maker, for a comparable part.

[@Maples01]

Being from China the new distributors are a shot in the dark as many are dead in the box.

[@kellismith4329]

Indeed, a new distributor assembly often costs less that the components individually

[@kellismith4329]

If it is a manual trans, you have to block the clutch pedal down

[@ScannerDanner]

If it is a manual transmission it is super dangerous to use a starter jumper tool if that is what you are referring to

[@plowe6751]

It seems to me that the "starter solenoid" on Ford trucks is nothing more than an overgrown starter relay.

[@ScannerDanner]

Exactly what it is

[@caryhuffii7224]

Honestly at high mileage, it's better to replace the whole distributor. That's what I did.

[@StanislausStRose]

Still no start on my truck

[@JoeMama-gs7rd]

Hey, I can't get the spark checker to activate when I tap my test light into the pip wire, and the fuel relay and fuel pump don't cut on either. What would you advise on the next step?

[@ScannerDanner]

Key on, does your check engine light, light up? Do you have power at coil +?

[@JoeMama-gs7rd]

@@ScannerDanner Hey Man! Thanks for getting back to me. The check engine light doesn't come on. Coil does have power. Looks like a no control test result. The test I was performing was trying to bring it to ground with the test light to the pip wire. I noticed on your part 3 class video (on the bronco) that you tried the test light to positive, as well as negative. Should I try bringing it to positive?

[@ScannerDanner]

@@JoeMama-gs7rd okay let's ignore the PIP test for a minute. With the key on, check for a 5v ref to your TPS or MAP sensor and report what you find.

[@JoeMama-gs7rd]

@@ScannerDanner 94' Ford 4.9L. TPS is vertical mounted with 3 wires top to bottom. The top most wire gave me a consistent .02, middle wire kept going between .01 and .00, and the bottom most wire gave me a consistent .00

[@ScannerDanner]

​@@JoeMama-gs7rdokay sweet, now we are onto the problem. No 5v reference (like you have) is an indication that the ECM is not "alive" or you have a shorted reference circuit. Next step, see if you have 12v at one of your fuel injectors. I believe the EECIV Power Relay feeds the injectors and the ECM power (as well as the EGR solenoid and other EVAP solenoids) If no power to the injectors we move toward that power relay and start doing checks there

[@reubenmiller7988]

That beard needs its own zip code!

[@mark98070]

Easier to just drop a new dizzy in it than to change the pip sensor. It will have to be an aftermarket. I've been searching forever for an oe one for my 95 for years ;/

[@jameshaliday1929]

go danner go.

[@andromedusmoat9608]

I am losing my mind... Been chasing the ignition gremlin through a 1987 E150 4.9L. I've got it to the point where a spark plug put on coil wire gives healthy spark, but then if I put the same plug on wired 1-6 coming from the cap? Nothing! I cnnot for theblife of me understand why there would be good spark at the coil wire, bjt not rhe plug wires, as this is a 100% brand new distrubutor........ If anyone reading this has any ideas, please help. I've tested everything else manual H says to. Every wire. Its something with the cap.

[@ScannerDanner]

How far of a gap will the spark jump from the coil? Possible rotor burn through if the coil can fire a 1 inch gap