Ford External Voltage Regulator Test & Replacement

[@billmoran3219]

I worked at a generator and starter repair shop in the 80’s and we used piggy back regulators on older fords that the customer didn’t want to get into the cost of repairing the wiring harness. The worked great and made the alternator a one wire hook up to the battery. I’m pretty sure the are still available at local rebuild shops, most of the older vehicle aftermarket oem parts produced today are junk .

[@laloscarrosyfamilia]

Thanks brother ! My truck has been sitting since 2020 ! And just started to wrench on it again! One reason it sat was it kept draining my new battery but regulator never crossed my mind I replaced the alternator before it sat and then the world took a crap and I started a family lol but I wanna get my 81 f100 back on the road to cruise with my lil boy in the summer . I will be using this method to test the regulator thanks !!

[@rednecklite]

Glad the video helped! I have my great-grandpa's 80 f100 I'm working on myself. Gotta keep these survivors on the road.

[@KennethLloyd-j1k]

Thanks so much! I have a 71 mustang a that had no power and you saved me a lot of headache.

[@antonybrennan8863]

Thanks!

[@fivedogsranch9288]

Dude. I was just in the side of the road and something between last week and today happened in my 85 Ford F250 w 460 charging system. It’s possible my ignition didn’t close all the way and drained my battery. I tested battery and it was 8. I had to use jump box. Started and checked voltage. It was around 12.5. Started to drive to town to put a little charge and go buy a battery. Truck lost power on the way and that’s that. Charging the battery now, hopefully it takes the charge. I then will do your voltage regulator test to see if it’s that or the alternator. Thanks for posting this man. I asked the parts store if there was a way to do this and they said nope!

[@rednecklite]

Glad it was helpful! Yup this is straight out of the Ford factory service manual, so totally legit test!

[@fivedogsranch9288]

@@rednecklite follow up. I performed the test. It didn’t go shooting sky high, but it began at 12 and then 12.2, 12.4 and climbing but it didn’t jump up to 13 or 14. Continuing to charge battery and purchased a new volt reg. $45 Standard. Made in China of course.

[@nesone6520]

@@fivedogsranch9288 Did the new voltage regulator fix the problem? If you did the jumper wire test and it didn't go to 13-14, that would seem like your alternator is bad, no?

[@fivedogsranch9288]

@@nesone6520 it fixed the battery charging issue. But the fuel problem ended up being the relay in the firewall under the master cylinder. It makes me think the voltage regulator going out maybe threw an over volt and then died? It’s really odd both problems emerged at exactly the same time. But we’re good to go now.

[@kevinmonday522]

Thank you very much! 70 mach 1, Windsor-im on my 3rd regulator, 1st one new China, last 2 off ebay (used vintage). I may look into a custom vintage style the way things are going. Thank you again!

[@garymahon1955]

Thank you very much! This helped me a lot with my 83 F150.

[@mbaineric7185]

Thanks man the detailed explanation was so helpful

[@Paulstrongbear]

I have a 65 Mercury Comet Caliente this is exact what I needed to watch. I was going to replace the alternator then I did some wire tracing and my voltage regulator looked like a melted 💩. Thanks again for the video. 🙏🏽

[@parkerazz4385]

How long ago was a replacement regulator $15-$20 That's shit is $40 to $50 now

[@nickestrada355]

Very good video!!

[@BennyTheHandsomeBoy]

Good stuff!!

[@RayLocklear-e9b]

I have a 97 f150 it had a 4.2 l in it I'm trying to hook my alternator up but they took the pigtails off the end of it I need to know where the wires go on a a 97 alternator

[@geraldtruesdell9930]

I’m wondering if I have the same problem. If I plug in my alternator on the solenoid I can’t put the battery in because it shoots heavy sparks

[@StephenScherr-eq9wp]

It's a good ideal to solder and tape the wires crimp ones can cause problems

[@Sasparilla400]

Good crimping tool and pull test with heat shrink connectors will have less stress on the connection.. soldering car wires isn't great for small gauge where there is lots of vibration..

[@jeffnorbert1871]

Exactly. That's way airplanes use crimp connectors and not solder.​@@Sasparilla400

[@erickmcdonald98]

Hey brother this question is about the starter solenoid, I figured you would be able to answer my question. My positive cable from battery to starter solenoid is heating up and not starting the vehicle. Is this a bad ground?

[@rednecklite]

Heat is high resistance, often a bad connection. Do you hear any clicking or thunking from the solenoid when you try to engage the starter? If you don't hear anything the solenoid may be siezed, you can try whacking it a couple times with a hammer or something or just replacing it. Also make sure you have good, tight connections.

[@erickmcdonald98]

I’ve replaced it twice now. I know the bolt that holds it to the side wall has become loose from replacing it. Should I run the negative cable to the negative bolt on the actual starter? Thank you so much for responding.

[@carsonalbrecht4290]

Why when I jump the terminals battery goes from 12.2 down to 11 why would it go down rather than stay at 12.2 if alt is bad ? Thanks

[@rednecklite]

That might indicate a short circuit- voltage goes down when a load is placed on the system, still an indication of a bad alternator.

[@roiceborruso8120]

*promosm* 🙂