Ford F150 6R60 & 6R80 Transmission Fluid Leak Bulkhead Sleeve Repair

[@nickrobinson9690]

Sir, if I could I would give you a giant hug right now! 7am found a puddle under the truck after I started it, found it leaking from this connector and thought it was going to be a huge job! Thought it was going to be one of those days. Thank you for all your videos on the 2010 Fords (F150). She getting old and needs some TLC and your videos really help me out! THANK YOU!

[@michellehatfield1633]

You've taken the words right out of my mouth. Love these easy low priced do it ourselves repairs and yes, his videos are sooo helpful.

[@colehaverhals7544]

I'm going to emphasize on the step where you are putting the new sleeve in, make sure you are putting good pressure on it while pushing clip up. It can be a bit tricky to find that spot so work with it. NEVER try and hammer or force the white clip in. Also white clip will not go in if the bulkhead sleeve isn't inserted. Great video as always!

[@camerongomez115]

Having a problem with my pin going back in , how hard did you have to push it in ?

[@PoisonJarl71501]

Mine is stuck open…Awesome lol

[@larrysalisbury9750]

00amwhy can I not get the new sleeve to go all the way in to lock but the old one slides in easily

[@tb990]

I pushed the soft handle side of a hammer against the sleeve and tapped it with another hammer a few times and the white tap went in

[@lesljr]

In my opinion, this should be done when doing a fluid & filter change. The part is only $20 and the pan has be dropped anyway. Wish I had known this before I did my fluid change. Great video. Very helpful.

[@dennishodson990]

I wish I had seen this video sooner. With a large trans puddle found under the Expedition, I pulled up my favorite "go to" Ford repair video -FTMULOCO and did the complete Trans fluid drain, replace filter and fluid. Went Perfect with your Videos. Only a slight burn checking the final fluid level after warming fluid. (I failed to follow the OvGlove recommendation. The leak I'm almost positive, was from the bulkhead sleeve, but with 120,000 k, the fluid and filter change was definitely needed. No leaking now though. Probably a cleaner and cooler running trans helped. You are "the Man" for FORD Repairs!! I also did the complete Phaser changeout "per your instructions this past June. No problems and running SILENT. Thanks for the videos

[@johnhengen8734]

This video saved me a lot of money, thank you for making it. One thing I did was to make sure I had the sleeve in correctly before putting the pan back on. I'm really glad I did because it was not all the way in the first time. I was so sure it was that I almost didn't check. Glad I did or I would of had to take the pan off and redo it. I checked by turning the ignition on and looking on dash for error codes, which there was. I then went back and pulled the sleeve out and tried again, second time no codes. Then I put the pan back on.

[@j-dirty5615]

What codes did you have

[@joshuavasquez8025]

Was quoted $800 bucks and a three day turnaround by the dealer... did it myself for $150 over the course of a morning. Sleeve wanted to be a pain but some patience got it in place. Thanks for the video!

[@JimBronson]

They quoted me 4.5 hours labor plus the part and the fluid. I didn't ask how much that would be, I'm going to do it myself. The dealer's parts department sold me the part for only $5 over Amazon's price and genuine Mercon LV fluid for $6.11 a quart, which incidentally is $0.11 cheaper per quart than the Walmart Supertech LV fluid I saw at a Walmart near me.

[@fordmanmark6632]

Easy Peasy,,, Went as smooth as you showed,,, Huge Thanks. I measured the fluid that drained out. 9 quarts for a 2010 f150 5.4 6r80.... 100 bucks parts and fluid.. Great video series.

[@less5406]

Couldn't get new connector to lock in so I swapped the orings to the old connector and it worked. No more leaks. yayyyy. Thank you for your tech videos.

[@SexyTexas]

How could you tell it was leaking

[@EFX21853]

Did the repair this past weekend. No lift; jacked up the front. First I drained the fluid. Bought Airpower America FloTool 5060TSMI Topsider Extractor to do the job, but upon further review the HORUSDY Multi-Use Siphon Fuel Transfer Pump Kit for Gas Oil and Liquids would have worked just as good for $50 less. See below. Dropping the pan was the most difficult part, as the six rear pan bolts were tough to get to; you will need a u-joint adapter. Also, if I was doing this again, I would go ahead and replace the 21 pan bolts with new ones. They were pretty rusty, and while in there do it right so you won't have problems if you go in again. Since the fluid was already removed, taking the pan down was not that messy; i had a large flat drip pan propped up on a milk crate to catch the pan and the little fluid as I was removing it. Releasing the while clip and pulling out the connector was a breeze. Prior to removal I verified the depth of it as shown in one of the other vids with a 6 Inch 15 cm Pocket Ruler Flexible Precision Stainless Steel Ruler with Detachable Clips Stainless Steel Pocket Clip Scale Gauge Ruler Metric British System, it was 15mm on the ruler. As many others have noted, it was tough to install the new connector. I had to cover the connector end with a metal cap and use a pry bar to seal it. Verified the depth of the connector with the ruler, and the white clip snapped up into place. I installed a new filter while it; when removing the old filter the orange seal on the stem from the old filter was stuck in the hole and I had to pry it out. When I went to fill it up, I started pumping fluid in with a LubriMatic 55-001 4CC Fluid Pump for Quart Size Bottles. As others have noted, it doesn't fit the qt bottles, and quite honestly it was very time consuming and difficult to do laying on your back. I ran a piece of hose from the engine area into the tranny, fitted a funnel to it, and filled from there. I unfortunately spilled my bucket of old fluid before I had a chance to measure it, so I put in 6 qts. No check engine and it ran smooth. The next day I checked it and it was way overfilled; I ended up removing 1.25 qt with the hand pump which was easier and quicker to use than the Transfer Pump Kit. I have the Summit Racing aftermarket tranny fill tube kit ordered and will install as this will make checking the fluids and any top offs way easier. I hope this helps someone.

[@jeremiahjohnson9908]

Just got through with this repair in the driveway on an '09 f-150 109,000 miles. Fordtechmakuloco, without you taking the time to make this video, this repair would likely have cost us $300 to $400 at the mechanic shop, thanks a million. Only problem we had was the backside of the seal, (the black and white clip part) was a little stubborn to get back in, needed a little extra convincing that it belonged there. Thanks again.

[@mijarez72]

Super great info, Thanks so much. My mechanic (ex-mechanic) wanted to drop the trans and disassemble it. He said it would be between $800 and $1000 to fix.

[@Macknifica]

I just wanted to say thanks for posting this video it saved me a ton of money amd also another thanks to all the commenter's that said you have to give the gasket a tap to get it to seat correctly to get the tab in.

[@dunkletx]

Did this procedure on a 2010 Ford F150 and this video was perfect. The new bulkhead sleeve needs a good even push top bottom and sides because the new Orings actually fit snug forming a tight seal. After that the locking mechanism locks in place perfect with ease. I had noticed the bulkhead weeping a drop of oil when I was replacing my O2 sensors. The O2 sensor video was another great video by FordTechMakuloco that I watched having no problems changing out my 2 up and 2 downstream sensors.

[@cochiloco2010]

Very helpful video,I just replaced it on my 2004 BMW 545i and the leaks stopped ,you help me to save at least $1200,thanks a lot.

[@ShadeTree_Certified]

This came in super handy on my 6L80 gm transmission. Just got it back from rebuild and shop won’t warranty it. This saved me having to take it back in!

[@chuntz64]

I disconnected the connector and pushed the sleeve hoping it would sit better and reconnected the connector. Still had the the check engine light on the console but cleared the code with a code reader. Its been working fine ever since. Thanks for all the help

[@ED-jf6mb]

Just got done doing this job on my 09 f150. I ran into the same problem with the clip not going back up after inserting the sleeve. Don’t try to force the clip, if it’s not going up it means the sleeve isn’t in fully. What I did is with a long narrow peice of wood and a mallet I gave the sleeve a few taps carefully and that did it,Up went the clip. I put everything back together and just like that saved 500 bucks.

[@jeffreyallen3777]

I had a real problem getting my clip back up and I wish I had read your post. I pushed pretty hard on the sleeve while pushing on the clip (I have pretty strong hands) and it wouldn't budge, despite the sleeve appearing to be fully seated. I finally pressed the clip a lot harder than I should have and the pressure must had nudged it just enough to line up the slot, and it finally went up and I didn't break anything. I think your suggestion would have worked for me, so anyone else looking for help with this issue definetly try it. I guess they made the new o rings a lot fatter and that's ok with me because I don;'t want to do it again.I wanted to insall a new pan with a drain plug at the same time but Dorman only makes them for 6r80s 2011 and after. I contacted Dorman and they said the later ones won't fit the o9, which is what I have, and I can't find a stock pan with a drain anywhere else.

[@danstock7660]

Lol it took me over an hour to reseat the bulkhead lol !!! ( the white clip did not want to push up ) U make it look so easy lol then when I went to start the truck the gears wouldn’t move !! Thank god I saw your other video ! Bottom line I removed the harness and reinstalled it again and it worked !!!!! Thank you ! I thought I was going to have to drop the pan again :(

[@rolandgutierrez4555]

I just want to say that this video is one of the best videos out there it helps with a very expensive looking problem that is really simple to fix so thank you guys so much for the info!

[@chucvadj]

Dude! Thanks so much for making this video and the other supporting videos. I would not have even tried and would have just paid the dealer to the job, but your video was very clear and demystified the process. Hopefully setting the fluid level to the bottom of the cross-hatch area like you said when the engine is running and not at full temperature works. Again, thanks for taking the time and effort to do these videos, Mike

[@ScoundrelOffRoad]

Thanks for the vid. I just did this and the Filter change on my 2010 F150 FX4 with the V8 5.4L. I had to add almost 10 quarts of fluid! :o It's now shifting hard in 4 low. But it's fine in 2wd and 4 high. Hoping it settles down after I drive it a bit more.

[@Redman_30]

Dude I’ve changed my trans gasket twice and a pan…..it’s the plug bro ain’t no way thanks for the video!

[@Redman_30]

And now my truck won’t crank and doesn’t show me in gear

[@leifer20]

FYI anyone who comes across this, replacing solenoids solved my problem, so far. I had slip on 4-5 upshift, jolt on 5-6, and 2-1 downshift bump. Codes came up 4f8A and also 4f86 for 4-5 upshift but no other codes. Originally i just attempted with the bridge and finger seals, but that did not solve the problem. I have been able to test the car on at least one road trip and a few high load shifts, and so far so good. If anyone buys a car with a higher mileage ZF automatic transmission (over 120k miles, 200k km) at the first sign of transmission issues I would recommend this service. I would recommend disconnecting the battery during this service. When putting the car back together make sure the sliding arm on the valvebody is aligned with the shift selector on the trans housing.

[@JimBronson]

What vehicle was this done on? FordTechMakuloco has a video on servicing the molded lead frame on 2011+ Fords with the 6R80. The molded lead frame interfaces with the solenoids. I would have to think that is cheaper than replacing all the solenoids, if yours is a 2011+ anyway. Mine is a 2010 and doesn't have the molded lead frame.

[@18winsagin]

wow,that's where the leak is on my truck. Thank you, I'll replace in the spring or when it quits raining. This video is a big help,I saw the harness and the oil but wasn't sure how it came out, now I know thanks again.

[@yoster77]

Note (in case this helps anyone) - video says 2009 or newer for mountaineer however this 6r60 transmission started in the explorer/mountaineer starting in 2006 for the 4.6L

[@brucewayne5470]

Thank You.

[@ralphrodriguez1583]

Thanks a lot I needed to do this and you helped. I’m replacing that same part on a 2010 f150

[@Lineman12.4]

Did you have any issue with the retaining clip going back in?

[@rudsaki]

is it always this bulkhead sleeve that leaks? Dealer is saying my Lead Frame is leaking on the wires and out this bulkhead. I have 2010 Explorer and you explained in your other video it is all integrated and expensive!

[@aaronsexton6434]

My lock tab won’t go in regardless or the sleeve being inserted or not. Help?

[@michellehatfield1633]

Thanks for the video! I'm changing mine out now while new tranny filter and fluid on my 2010 f-150.

[@alfrench2155]

I replaced the sleeve in the back of the transmission but still looks like I am getting fluid around the wiring. There is a quad ring on the pigtail and I was wondering if that quad ring can be replaced without replacing the whole pigtail and wires?

[@sespi8286]

Your are the best, short well presented, Better than the rest, easy to understand, i got educated and saving on labor can’t ask for much more!

[@ED-jf6mb]

Shop wanted to charge me 550 for this job, now I’ll be doing it myself. Thanks

[@BradKing1975]

Ford dealer called this and rear seal, Ford here in Ottawa called $1300- f*ck1ng crooks. Called my local tranny shop, $180 + parts.

[@bernardom]

Solution to stuck retainer clip.................... I just did this job today and I had the same problem many are having with getting the white retainer clip to go up after installing the new bulkhead adapter. It just would not budge, no matter how much I wiggled or pushed the retainer clip or the new adapter. When I re-installed the factory bulkhead adapter, the retaining clip went up without much work (just a little wiggling). Here's what I did to fix this. I installed the new bulkhead adapter, then I took a long thin piece of wood (long enough to rest on the plastic adapter and long enough to hang out the back, and wide enough to rest across the entire plastic adapter) and then I tapped the wood lightly with a hammer to seat the new adapter properly. When I did this, the white retainer clip went up without much trouble. I think the new adapters are so tight (with new o-rings) that you can't really push them in far enough with just your hands, especially when they are in an area that is tough to reach. Just make sure you tap lightly and seat the plastic adapter evenly. I hope this helps others who are having the same issue.

[@Jim-re3sr]

I found fluid in with the pins, is there a gasket I can order and is it accessible. The pass through sleeve solved the dripping on the ground. Great Video

[@WrenchtilDeath]

Thanks for the help. For some reason my clip got stuck down and wouldn't budge even with bulk head connector out. Had to hit it with a hammer for it to go up.

[@crackerjack4105]

That’s where I’m at right now Won’t clip,

[@SF-rl7hl]

You can't push white clip up unless the black sleeve is all way in. Do Not try push white clip up without black sleeve in place. It requires black sleeve in to free white clip so it will move up. it will not go up (locked) without sleeve in place. Never hit with hammer Never!

[@Davewertzjr]

Got a 6r80 that had what I though was a leaking pan gasket. Come to find out it is the bulkhead. So we dropped the pan, pulled the white clip down and replaced the outer bulkhead. Well after about 200 miles it still leaked a tad. Worse part is it went into limp mode and stayed in 2nd gear, lost speedo, wrench light came on and Trac control. Pulled the code and got U0101. Which is connection lost to TCM. What's the deal? I'm assuming it has to do something with the bulkhead we replaced? Bouncing my head here.

[@mosdiy8096]

Can you spray electrical connector cleaner on the plug pins to clean it?

[@mattmartinez6392]

Great video. Very helpful. Replaced the sleeve on my 2010 yesterday and this video helped out a lot. Thanks.

[@IDontKno215]

The new sleeve refused to let the clip slide back up. The old sleeve allowed it to slide up no problem. Currently putting new orings on old sleeve hope it works

[@EFX21853]

Can you do this repair with the truck on ground level, or do you need a full lift, or at least have the front up on wheel jacks?

[@rivas1ful]

What is that white peace is not going backup even without the new plug

[@dreroy599]

Just bought a 2010 f150 got a leveling kit installed a week later and the mechanic told me I have a really bad transmission leak at the back of the transmission hopefully this works. I just ordered the part

[@Mi_Haggs]

Help!!! Any idea when my lock clip will not slide back up? Even tried removing new bulkhead connector and sliding it back up with no connector in place. It wont budge. 2010 Expedition

[@Fabes002]

2012 f150 4x4 ecoboost., Got a hard slam when shifted into gear and then the wrench symbol popped up. It was in limp mode. Crawled underneath and found fluid all around this plug....not dripping but it was wet. Pulled the wires out, sprayed everything with contact cleaner, then blew it out with air. Like magic the wrench went away. Still had a check engine light so I cleared that with my obdII scanner and all is good. Not sure if the lever part was loose allowing trans oil into the harness or if I need to pull the pan and replace the bulkhead.

[@nhoj1106]

how about the Transmission range sensor of 2017.ford.transit xlt, do you have a part number for this..?

[@Bawb2002]

Do you recommend replaced the o ring on the male portion of this set? Looks like you can buy that plug for 50 bucks or so but you're having to splice all the wires. Just seeing if it's common for the plug to leak as well.

[@toddstarker8448]

Great video. I need your help. I sprayed the connector with brake fluid to try and clean out some the transmission fluid and grime. The truck now wont start. My sense is i shorted the pins to the lead frame. Is it possible the main computer is shorted as well or should i start by replacing the lead frame?

[@jewermank8536]

Dude great job on the video. I don't own a Ford, but enjoyed it

[@ftavarez86]

Would a bad bulk head connector cause codes (P0706, P0707) I have a 2105 f150 ecoboost.

[@shaungapinski407]

Is this good preventative maintenance at @199k it's never been done before and you can see it leaking

[@golightly209]

You have helped me a lot the third brake light the water pump and now this.

[@locomanalex]

Just notice a pool of tranny fluid under my truck and looking around I think this is the cause. Seems like a simple fix, thanks for the video

[@MattyP406]

Great video, just replaced the O-rings on mine. The only problem I had was not able to twist the connector off of the sleeve. Done broke the tab but still cant get this damn thing to twist out of place. So i just dropped the pan, pulled the release tab down and the whole thing came out, the sleeve and connector still attached. STILL couldnt get that damn connector to release from the sleeve. I used some electrical connector cleaner to get all of the fluid out of the pins and now its not leaking or throwing the money light at me.. does anyone have any idea on why this is stuck on.

[@LPerez]

My bulk head connector pig tail wont go in, looks like it shifted or something, any ideas?

[@SF-rl7hl]

I tried but even will a lot of pressure, I could not get the sleeve all way in so that I could push up white tab. I noticed the two very small tabs mid way up black sleeve do not match my original part not sure that matters. Also I have red O rings on OEM and the new part are black o rings. I watch your video and you looked like didn't have push hard to get black sleeve all way in? I don't get it you made it look easy? help!

[@frankiemedina4258]

When I go into the store I’m asking for “ bulkhead connector “ or does it have a official computer name

[@PoisonJarl71501]

Doing this right now and my locking tab is stuck. Won’t go in with or without new one

[@law67yan]

Thank you very much for taking the time to make this video, you are saving me a lot of money and I appreciate it. I'm going to perform this procedure this week, my question to you is will disconnecting the battery prior to the work being performed protect the ecm from damage from any static discharge that could be caused by human touch?

[@JacesOwnWorld]

Okay, I’m going on a whim writing this comment in hopes I get a reply knowing this is an old video: I have this same exact sleeve-connector operation on my BMW E60 525i. I was just given this car. The previous owner couldn’t get it to start after replacing all the mechatronics solenoids. I just went to work on it today, and noticed the sleeve the previous owner installed, was not seated all the way in. As I got to the old sleeve to remove it, I noticed the connector that supposed to twist onto it, was a little loose too. So I installed a new OEM sleeve, and I’ve been having the most frustrating time twisting the connector onto the sleeve. It will not twist onto it! After trying for 2hrs, I gave up, took a break, and then went back underneath the car to figure out why I couldn’t twist it on. I realized then that the tabs inside the twist part of the connector, that falls into the slots on the sleeve, we’re broken. All three of them are broken! So that’s why the connector won’t twist onto the sleeve! To say the least I’m pretty upset. Previous owner definitely broke them, and there is such little space, and the connector wire harness isn’t that long, that I now have to drop the entire transmission to access this connector! So I’m coming here to ask if anyone else has had this issue and what they did to remedy it? Do I need to drop the transmission to do this? If so I’m just going to forget it tbh. I don’t have that kind of time right now.

[@golightly209]

Would this be the same as transmission fluid change?

[@davesmith8265]

Be very careful NOT to bend the pins. Very delicate!!

[@gabrielcoloma7791]

can a bad connection in that piece throw a fault U0101?

[@williampargas8461]

Great video but unfortunately it is still leaking for me after the new o-rings. Granted, it's no way near as bad as it was, but still leaks about a pancakes worth of fluid every time it sits for a couple of days. I'll attempt another fix in the spring but this time i'm going to use hi temp RTV on the outside of the connector. I knew I should have used it to begin with. Live and learn.........

[@FordTechMakuloco]

You should never have to use sealant there are two o-rings keeping the fluid in one of them must of been damaged or rolled upon install.

[@omarvega5771]

Great video , but the locking mechanism I can't make it go back up for some reason. Can you help. Pls. Thank you.

[@railroadin77]

Did you ever figure out how to get the connector to come loose? Mine will not turn, please help!!

[@railroadin77]

Did you ever figure out how to get the connector to come loose? Mine will not turn, please help!!

[@danielr172]

Any luck

[@jasonnormandeau5434]

Like your videos, Good job. I don't know if you noticed but the casing was cracked around the pass thru. I'm thinking it was leaking there also.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

That is a shadow line not a crack.

[@MrFerrill]

Mine looks like the fluid is coming from the bell housing, looks pretty dry all around the pan, could this be it?

[@SM0R3S]

Have you made a video on the 6R80 Output Shaft Seal replacement?

[@codydukes7503]

Is this the same concept with 6r140 in a 2017 f250?

[@flyurway]

Well done. I can't believe that with the reputation of that great German engineering that they can't make a pass through like this with finely machined parts, 2 O-rings and a ribbed quad seal that doesn't leak!!! I serviced the same trans on my '04 Jaguar and while I was in there I replaced this too, even though it wasn't leaking. 6 months later, the car is laid up for the winter, hasn't been started in weeks, just like that the POS just starts leaking all over the place!! Wtf! Gotta be a better way to seal these up!

[@verizonwireless8339]

Thank you for these very detailed videos. You mentioned drag shifting in the morning. I have a 2013 f150 3.5L EcoBoost. 6r80 Trans. 165000 miles. In the morning I experience what sounds like the transmission is struggling to shift from 3 down to 1st for about 15 minutes of driving. No issues shifting up. After about 20 minutes on the highway the problem goes away. I have been extending my warm up to about 15 minutes with no improvement. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks

[@consealedhecklers]

we’re can I get the bulkhead connector and o rings

[@louisboliou7432]

I have a 2008 Expedition with (I assume) the 6r75 transmission. I have a transmission leak, which seems to be around the rear transmission gasket. Does the 6r75 transmission have a similar bulkhead connector? If so, where is it located? It does seem to leak when sitting for several days, in cold weather. I bought the Expedition a year ago with ~120k miles, and it had a clean / dry trans pan, etc. About 25 days ago, the leaks started, and at that time I assumed gasket -- considering the age and mileage. I had the transmission looked at, and had the fluid /filter / gasket changed. Since then, we went on a 2600 mile trip to AZ and back, and all was fine. Then, after returning to WA state, I noticed it was leaking again after sitting for several days. This seems to leak only when sitting, as there is no indication of fluid streaking on the frame areas. I initially considered the pan screws might need re-torquing, but now I wonder. BTW, your videos are excellent, I do appreciate your time spent on creating them. Thanks for any input you can provide!

[@sandytakaki7476]

I have a 2001 f-150 i took the transmission out and had it rebuilt had a problem putting it back in had to shim the starter for it to work now when i went to start it made a loud noise and the power steering line came off and it looked like tranmission fuild was coming out of the back of the torque converter please help me

[@NotHarry-er3wg]

Have you had any 2010 f150 6r80 with converter shudder until totally locked when hot at 0 and still at 78000 miles but more frequent ford has said is normal. does not do it all the time converter apply is very slow. How can converter apply be made firmer? I feel this slow apply just adds heat to the plates and frictions thinning the LV oil more than it already is. Oh this educational video was great. im on my 3rd drain and fill already

[@mustangjake1]

Exactly what's leaking on my '08 SportTrac 6R60. Thanks!!

[@ckennedy9901]

I got my 09 f150 a transmission service done last week at my local dealership then this past Wednesday i took it back because it was still leaking, they said it was the bulkhead sleeve and changed it. Well now after the bulkhead change ive had nothing but problems, check engine light, wrench light, had ford run codes and said i lost connection to almost everything and cleared the codes and updated my PCM, once clear the truck is fine then after overnight being turned off i go out to crank up the motor and all the codes come back.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

They did not seat the bulkhead sleeve into the trans all the way you must set it just right and I even measure them to make sure they are fully installed or concerns like these arise. See here- kzbin.info/www/bejne/r4fclmuCnMdlg9U

[@bobmontgomery3465]

I replace the pass through sleeve as your video instructed yesterday. Today the tcm isn’t communicating with the DTC. I hoping I failed to insert completely. That’s sucks for me but any thoughts I should consider before dropping the pan again?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Yes see here- kzbin.info/www/bejne/r4fclmuCnMdlg9U

[@jdubu004]

Question. '08 Expedition 4x4. No known problems or slips with transmission prior to this. Possibly not fully stopped when place in park. Now it wont engage into any gear, reverse or forward. The linkage all works and moves the arm on the outside of the case. It can be placed in park and neutral with park and neutral working as they should. Any idea what to look at next? Thank you in advance, and thank you for the helpful and informative videos. SAW

[@nathanisaacson3345]

Shawn Wright brake control switch needs repaired. Like $15 on amazon

[@waynedempsey5760]

Helllo.Thanks ,very informative.Just wondering ,do you have a video of dropping the trans pan on Transit van?If not,can you sugest an article?Thanks

[@82lowe36id]

I have a 2007 Expedition EL and I changed the pan gasket a couple years ago when I did a filter change used a Ford EOM gasket. Well discovered it was all wet with trans fluid under the truck recently. I changed the gasket again and keep getting leaks. The house I live in now has a rather steep driveway and it seems to leak worst when I park forward. I keep checking if bolts are loose. This is driving me crazy. Does my 2007 have this problem in this video?! That may explain it leaking worse when parked with rear of truck lower.

[@shadowglasstinting9905]

I just replaced my bulk head connector and I went to start my truck. It didn't try to start. The "wrench" came on the dash and no clicking or anything. Made sure the connection was good at the bulk head connection. It is. Any ideas?

[@ghostley8155]

Hey I know this is 4 years old but I’m in the same exact situation as you right now word for word… did u figure it out? Thanks

[@Mark-fg9pf]

I have a TCM code, wrench, traction light, check engine light and limp mode come in randomly. Then sometimes nothing. Anyone have any idea whats going on? I dont have a noticeable leak. I changed out my ignition coils of that side with motor craft coils in case one of the old ones was breaking down and sending electrical impulses into the bus working harness. Should i try this bulkhead connector anyway?

[@Mark-fg9pf]

Since that last post I got under the truck, checked around the connector ( not much of a visable leak. ) I then pushed up the lever and pulled out the wiring harness. I noticed right awat that the connector was wet with I presume tranny fluid. I wiped down the harness and just inside the bulkhead connector being carful not to touch the pins ) I then reinserted and pushed the lever down. It has been several days since and no codes or limp, yet...........I assuming the ribbed seal is leaking into the area where the pins meet the harness and wreaking havoc on the connection. I expect to see the wrench soon when the fluid makes its way back into this area. Considering doing this bulkhead replacement myself in the driveway.

[@CasperTheFriendlyGhost777]

Any update I’m going through the same thing

[@r6moto716]

Isn't there a special socket u use to pull that thing off with if anyone can point me in the right direction of that special socket I'd appreciate it

[@FordTechMakuloco]

They developed a coastal sleeve remover yes but they easily pull out by hand.

[@addisonestes1219]

What happens if the retainer clip gets stuck down.

[@fordmanjb]

I have the same issue right now on my 2010 Expedition. I can't get the retainer clip to go back up and lock the sleeve. I could use some advice right away because I don't want to break it.

[@addisonestes1219]

fordmanjb finally got my. Basically the new O rings are super tight. My advice is to lube it very well. Take one hand and push it in tight while wiggling slightly. Also at the same time our mild pressure upward in the clip.

[@addisonestes1219]

fordmanjb I need to add that I had to put a lot of pressure on the bulkhead seal. Like a lot

[@aaronsexton6434]

My clip won’t go up without the bulkhead sleeve? What do I do?

[@mikezellers8723]

Help! I'm trying to change the output speed shaft sensor and I cannot get the bulkhead connector sleeve out. I believe I have the retainer pressed down as far as it can go because I can hear a click, but the sleeve will not budge. Any ideas on how to get the sleeve out?

[@sternbro]

I'm confused. You show a nice clean connector area in this video. If it's bad wouldn't it be leaking right there?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

This video was "for demonstration purposes only" as stated in the video.

[@sternbro]

@@FordTechMakuloco So one that is leaking will be wet with fluid right? So is the answer to my question, "Yes it will be dripping from there" ??

[@JimBronson]

@@sternbro yes, mine is very wet right where that connector is. I'm 100% WFH though so it hasn't been a super high priority to fix it, the vehicle just sits for now. Hoping to get to it this next weekend.

[@charleslara3470]

Thanks for the video. It helped me do this fix on my f150 today. Now if only the Ford engineer that recommended these trucks to have no dipstick under the hood would be fired. Whoever thought it would be a good idea to have the tiny dipstick next to the catalytic converter should be tortured with hot coal.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Yes I feel your pain, try that in the middle of the summer, not pleasant.

[@rhc43]

I have an 07 Expedition with the 6R75 trans. I this trans essentially the same as the 6R60 & 6R80 and subject to the same type of leak? If so, basically the same repair as your video shows? Thanks!

[@jameshoward8763]

I am probably going to swap the whole sleeve for good measure while i have the pan down, but could I theoretically just replace o-rings alone? Im not sure how durable the plastic is, and I imagine that it warps with the excess heating and cooling over the years.

[@YvesGeniaux]

Is it a big problem over time? I have a tiny leak but Ford wants to charge me $1800 to fix it

[@2962Todd]

Does the 2014 f150 5.0l still have the orange o’rings in it. I have no leaks but want to do tranny service and connector as a preventative? Thanks

[@JoelMotaPhoto]

Hey Brian i Replaced the passthrough on mine but still seems to leak a bit. Pins have oil again. What should i do?

[@JoelMotaPhoto]

To all who made my same mistake. Make sure its ALL the way in till you can't see the last O ring. Surprisingly tab would still click in the wrong groove.

[@jasona.2293]

I am in the process of changing my filter and thought I would change this now while I'm in there. Currently it's not leaking. I pull down the retainer and the connector will not pull out. I put a little pressure behind it with a pry bar and still nothing. I'm thinking I will skip it since mine is dry and hope messing with it didn't cause a leak... Any thoughts?

[@claytonmatt4334]

Thanks for the video it saved me some $. My suggestions, don't buy the replacement part from amazon. It is made in China, I couldn't get it to fit. You can buy the real OEM from a Ford dealership for $5 more, its made in Czech Republic (Also I got the reusable gasket at dealer for $25). Even with the dealer sleeve, very hard to get it to seat properly, I kept getting traction light and key wouldn't turn. So what worked for me was putting a good amount of Transmission fluid on the gaskets of the new sleeve. Once you think its properly seated, with the battery off, you can connect electrical connection and push the white clip back in place, reconnect battery, then turn ignition halfway and wait to see if traction light or wrench icon (don't worry about engine light) comes up on the dash. If not you should be good to go, turn key back to off and put it all back together. If wrench/traction light comes on the sleeve is probably not seated all the way blocking a good electrical connection. I had to drop the pan 3 times to get this done, what a mess. Part of the problem was not knowing how to test it as I just described above before putting all back together, filling with fluid etc only to find out truck wouldn't start. Also, I found the red/orange transfer pump for sale at harbor freight for $7 to be very effective for filling the trans pan.

[@jodycollins1857]

So if it’s not seated good will the white clip go into place?

[@claytonmatt4334]

@@jodycollins1857 Going off memory here, yes I think it will click into place which is why I strongly suggest testing it before putting the pan back on and filling it

[@dr7477]

I just found out today that the Amazon part is a fake. I went to the dealer and got the right part and it fixed everything. I wish I read your comment before buying the Amazon part.

[@inspiredtofish]

Thank you for the valuable information your channel provides!! Any advice on what type of cleaner or degreaser to use on the harness connector, bulkhead sleeve and trans housing? Want to make sure I clean up the leaking trans fluid before replacing ! Your help is much appreciated 🙏

[@dudeshhhman1425]

I have a question ... with the 6r60 can you get an undercarriage wash in car washes, the reason why i ask this is that I don't want to get water in the transmission vent tube

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Yes you can get the undercarriage was no problem.

[@khanivore313]

Thanks bud. Nobody mentions the damn tab on the bottom of the sleeve and its placement.

[@Mark-fg9pf]

So I reached under and unfastened the connector. The wire and inside the connector was wet but it didnt look like it was leaking from the bulkhead

[@kylecarr6409]

Will the sleeve listed work on the 6R80E? Im no car expert so i haven't a clue. Not sure if there is a difference between 6R80 and the 6R80E. I drive a 4.6L 3v 2010 Ford f150 2wd

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Kyle Carr There is no 6r80e, do you mean 4r70e or 4r75e instead if so no this pass through sleeve is not used on your trans.

[@lastmanxa]

What is the o ring part number for 6r60? I got sport trac 2007 v8 .. 🙏

[@FordTechMakuloco]

You want the built sleeve, everything is linked in the video description.

[@lastmanxa]

@@FordTechMakuloco thank you sir

[@tamilrmx]

Hello, just wondering how much fluid do you need to fill back into these 6R80 transmissions when you do a pan drop. I have a fluid leak coming from somewhere on top and showing up on the back side of the pan along the gasket line. Couldn't really see if its coming from the seal where the driveshaft meets the transmission or if its the bulkhead sleeves because i had it rustproofed before the winter. Sprayed brake cleaner all around that area and will check again where its exactly leaking from. Hopefully its just a pan gasket.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+tamilrmx They seem to take 7.5qts

[@tamilrmx]

+FordTechMakuloco Thanks for letting me know! Take a look at my thread, let me know what you think could be the leak. I can't find any info on bulkhead leaks for the 2011-2014 mustangs anywhere on the net. Most of the F150 owners experience this. For now its cleaned up with brake cleaner and I'm gonna drive it for a week to see exactly where its coming from. www.allfordmustangs.com/forums/2011-2014-v6-mustang-tech/930282-2011-mustang-v6-6r80-transmission-leak-ahh-almost-100000mi.html