Ford F150 6R80 U0100 U0101 Limp Mode: Bulkhead Sleeve Install Tips

[@aentrekin35]

Changed fluid, filter, and connector sleeve. It ran fine for a couole of days then got the wrench and traction conttol warning. Truck went into limp mode. I pulled over and let it sit and ran just fine. Double checked the connector and had about 1/2 inch gap. Again I remove fluid and pan and pushed it in to where there is no gap. I had to push really hard. So far so good. Do it right the first time or do it again. Thanks Brian for making these videos

[@uncledoug9934]

Replaced the sleeve 2 days ago with no issues using the Motorcraft LV fluid and filter. Shifting seems better. Thanks for your help!

[@jefffegenbush1185]

Great Video, my 2010 F150 with 140,000 miles just started leaking. Showed video to my local mechanic buddy and he was able to take care of it a lot cheaper than going to dealership.

[@Robob]

Thanks for the helpful videos, just changed the o-rings when doing first fluid & filter @ 95k miles in my 2010 F150, I wish I had done it sooner. Seating the bulkhead connector sleeve was the biggest issue I had. What i did was use a socket that just fit inside the sleeve with a 6" extension on it to help push firmly on the sleeve evenly as I could not get the locking tab to return to the locked position while pushing the connector by hand, the release tab will not go back up until both "ears" are depressed. My dipstick is somewhat different with crosshatches labeled "A"and dots right above labeled "B" above that, I assumed that the dots would be overfull and hope that was correct!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Rob K If it was room temp fluid it should be anywhere in the "A" range. The "B" range is for full operating temp.

[@Robob]

FordTechMakuloco Using my trans temp gauge in dash I waited til it was in normal operating range and checked again, had to add about 1/3qt, thanks for updating so I would know!

[@fawaz200]

this transmission are originally from ZF 6hp26 6hp28 and 6hp32 they are on BMW, jaguar, Audi, and few european automakers , bmw used them first in 2002 in 7 series , those seals are known for leaking and they are the same from all those automakers , the transmission itself is beast and cant be killed but the valve body or ( mechatronics ) are the only problem and ford did a very good job with them , thanks for the video :)

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Fawaz Al This is true.

[@austincollier14]

Wow five years later this video put an end to a long battle with my truck lol I’ll start by saying in December 2019 my starter starting going bad( it would intermediary long crank on cold start, sometimes the starter wouldn’t disengage the flex plate at all and I’d have to turn the key back. One day it didn’t do anything no crank no start so of course I immediately get under the truck and inspect starter, I arched the solenoid and it started but would only run in limp mode, that’s when I first guessed maybe something else was wrong too.. I decided I might as well and swap the starter because it was already going to need replaced (mind you at this time it’s an entirely original 4.63V with 219,000miles). Swapped starter , no crank no start, I was entirely stumped for two days as I researched my problem because I didn’t want to bring it anywhere until I knew what was wrong, that way I could determine if it was something I could do in my driveway. I stumbled across this video and slid under the truck and I looked at the area and omg the grime the fluid leaking and then dirt flying up and sticking to it caked the entire underside section was caked, I had no idea about it because no fluid ever made it to the ground underneath the truck. This video saved my ass and I didn’t even know it lol THANK YOU!

[@lindapoworski2597]

After my 2009 f150 with the 6R80 was sitting for over a week, I went to open the transmission filler cap and fluid poured out the top. Must have been crazy overfilled, about a quart poured out on its own. Why I didn't have a code or problem is beyond me. I did notice prior that there was a fluid leak bringing me to this video to change the bulk sleeve which seemed to be the leak problem. Im just at the part to put the new sleeve in but can't get the sleeve in enough to push the lock clip back up. Ill get some man power today.Its interesting though that even though the clip won't go up that the connector goes on great and the lever when turned goes all the way to where it should be like in your video. Is this not an indicator too that it is in all the way? Apparently not. Thanks for all you've filmed. I've learned so much from you and have replaced/repaired many parts of this engine.

[@tomderosa4882]

You have the best auto mechanic videos.

[@SierraDenaliAWD]

I just bought the sleeve assembly today. I guess it was old stock since you say you can only get the o-rings now.

[@elmosgarage9845]

Hi, can you help me, I changed the the bulk head and didn’t touch anything Iike you said. filled trans and now it’s limp mode code U0101 no Communication with TCM. I check to make sure wire harness in plugged in correctly and so on. Can you help me. The truck was fine before I changed this part.

[@ricardomarquez6243]

I have the same problem

[@ricardomarquez6243]

lo solucionaste?

[@MikeFarowe]

So do I

[@MikeFarowe]

Did you fix it?

[@Jordan-fg7ek]

Lol no one knows a solution to the problem ?

[@jaebowen2866]

Any idea where to purchase the new version lead frame with the foam cover for the 6r80? Or is there a way to modify the older version as those are available. Ford wants to charge a diagnostic fee if the pcm doesn’t have any specific store codes that would satisfy the recall

[@chelseaa1712]

Question* I have a 2010 4.6 3v that is throwing the U0100 code. Number 48 relay in passenger interior fuse panel was replaced and allowed the vehicle to start but when I turned the vehicle off it will not start again. The relay does click. Thanks

[@CasperTheFriendlyGhost777]

Can you clean the inside with CRC electronic cleaner instead of a rag to eliminate static??? Fordmakemeloco this is driving me loco HOMiE

[@Jim-re3sr]

I installed it on my 2006 explorer, thanks for the video

[@scottwebber652]

I have a 14 f 150 with the 6 r80. Do I have the bulkhead in mine ?

[@mactoyscb]

yes. you may also run into issue with the lead frame in the transmission.

[@kansascityshuffle8526]

Have you ever done any vids on the lead frame replacement?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Yes I have one shot I just need to edit it.

[@johnnywalker5635]

QUESTION Spray the black plastic bulkhead sleeve with brake cleaner? Brake cleaner has many aggressive solvents including Acetone. Are you sure we should be spraying a plastic part? Metal I understand but plastic makes me nervous. Thoughts? THANK YOU FOR YOUR 6R80 videos!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Johnny Walker the plastics used in automotive applications are very strong brake clean is no match for them.

[@sSkillaz336]

I can't get the connector to connect to the bulkhead in order to twist it down to lock it in place spent 2hrs on it turned into a nightmare

[@jesusjimenez2702]

Hello I have a 2009 f-150 that doing this I have I was driving and it went in to limp mode the wrench went on I drop the pan and took the connector out in side the trans it the pins were full of oil how can I clean it ?

[@juliotrejo25]

So I had this problem fixed it. How ever my truck won't go into gear. And the wrench line is still on. Codes are for lost connection and module 5 malfunction

[@weldercamaro]

just had a single pin on the plug push out of the connector while trying to reinstall connector. had to push it back in with a very small Allen wrench while it was pluged in. could not get the individual pin to lock into the connector. just bought whole connector at amazon.

[@tims_4x4_garage]

On my 2010, the dipstick is white and has A and B hash marks. Should I fill to the bottom Of the A (lower hash marks) or to the bottom of B (upper hash marks)

[@jasonkornega3437]

to clean where the comnector is just shoot brake clean or wipe with paper towel? dont use a rag near the pins? need help asap

[@larrycantu3908]

Question after changing sleeve o rings is it possible to check for check engine light or wrench light. Before reinstalling pan and trans fluid. Like turn key to on position but not start... Thanks

[@Mi_Haggs]

!!!!HELP!!!! All was going well except now the retainer wont push back up into place. I even tried to remove the new sleeve and try to move without a sleeve in at all. The retainer wont budge. I compared old and new sleeves and they are the same with no missing pieces off old sleeve. Any idea why the sleeve wont go back up into place?

[@Mi_Haggs]

Thanks for the help. Was freaking out. It MUST be seated all the way to go back in. Will not go back in with No Sleeve inserted for testing. O ring lube worked better than Fluid did. Take your purse off and push on the new sleeve harder and the retainer will slide right up. Thank Fellas

[@anneryan7911]

Awesome videos on this repair. Thank you very much for posting. I just dropped the pan and drained fluid and went to attack the replacement of the of the pass through sleeve. The tab/lever on the collar broke off when I tried turning the collar counter clockwise. Any suggestions for getting that collar off and back on??

[@camerongomez115]

Where is this located On the transmission??

[@normansmyth2969]

Is it possible to push the bulkhead more with out dropping the pan and filter

[@danehyer413]

You ever find out if you can or not?

[@normansmyth2969]

Nope you have to drop it

[@bummallery748]

changed my fluid last month but didn't do the rings , they didn't leak before . now that ive leaked out a half a quart I took it in dropped the pan changed the filter and rings and its still leaking , I'm 250 into this now and not a happy camper , gonna crawl under it in the morning and disconnect and give the sleeve a tug that's the only thing I can think of , it felt like everything was snug .when we put it back together .wtf

[@jjcjshelts]

Mine has apparently leaked around the sleeve before and someone put a white sealant around it. The wire connector must have some sealant in it so I can't get it to turn. If I force it, is it possible to break something else such as the pins inside if the sleeve itself rotates? Or is the plug replaceable and I should cut it off somehow? Afraid to force it so I don't screw something else up that is costly.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Pull down on the locking mechanism after it is released as shown in the video the sleeve is not connected to anything anymore so you can pry out the sleeve evenly at this point without damaging anything.

[@jjcjshelts]

I can't get the wire connection off to expose the sleeve, are you saying leave the wire connection connected and pull out the sleeve that way? Thanks

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Oh no I thought they glued the sleeve in.

[@jjcjshelts]

So is it ok to leave the wire connected and try to pull the sleeve and wire out together once I have released the locking mechanism? Then with it out I thought I might be able to twist them apart and not take a chance of damaging the interior pins. Thanks

[@jefferari]

Thanks for doing such a good job on your videos! I have an intermittent no crank no start on my 2007 Expedition with both the wrench and traction control lights on, as well as the U0101code that indicates loss of communication with the TCM. The sleeve and plug on the transmission look like they’re all how they should be, locked in with no leak, so I’m wondering if there’s anything else to consider? This started on its own, without me ever touching the harness, which looks good all the way. Any more light you can shed on this issue would be appreciated!

[@Mark-fg9pf]

Hi Jeff, did you see his other video regarding the ignition coils? Are you getting a misfire code as well?

[@stever5373]

only question i have is what is the part # for the sleeve having a hard time finding this part

[@FordTechMakuloco]

All the parts needed are linked in the video description

[@johnnywalker5635]

I just bought it on ebay from a ford dealer. Authentic ford part in a ford clear sealed baggy. I see this is a year old, but maybe someone else can benefit. I found that the new bulkhead sleeve "with" the new black O-rings was cheaper as a whole unit on ebay than it was buying JUST the 3 O-rings. GO FIGURE! Part number I purchased for a 2009 Ford F-150 4.6L V8 with 6R80 21-bolt pan is part# 6L2Z7G276AA.

[@tomahawkjo8574]

Will the static discharge you speak of happen even if the negative cable is disconnected from the battery?

[@brucejones2354]

Tomahawk Jo YES

[@smokeu600]

My 2011 f150 has two hashmarks on that dip stick, which hashmark do I use?

[@druklk42]

Hello, I need your help my truck throw me a code 09 ford f150 5.4 4x4 P0735. I talked to the the transmission specialist at the ford dealership and he told me that I could spend $5000 and the problem not be solve . So what should I do if they are telling that. Help I'm only getting that code nothing else

[@salrivera1]

how do i kno what transmission i have on my 06 ford f 150 whith 5.4?

[@morganleblanc730]

My Father has this problem with his 2010 Ford F-150 right now. Ford dealer said the part is 1800.00! And the shop is charging 600.00 to install it. 😮

[@BG-zc2iz]

I have my truck going into limp mode with the 2 codes, but only seems to happen when it gets cold outside. I live in south texas. So it doesn't get that cold. But why would it happen when it gets cold.

[@Jordan-fg7ek]

Mine does the same did you find out the problem ?

[@Mark-fg9pf]

​@@Jordan-fg7ek I have 2010 Sporttrac 8Cy Intermediate limp mode, traction light, engine light with TCM lost connection code. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

[@Jordan-fg7ek]

@@Mark-fg9pf mark mine still does it after I installed the new bulkhead connector sleeve I still don’t know what’s causing it

[@kennetht7523]

Would you know if this will be the same part numbers for a 2016 Mustang GT?

[@plowtruckdriver]

trans fluid , is LV to be used in all of the 6R60 and 6R80's instead of SP

[@FordTechMakuloco]

No the 6r60 they are sticking to SP as of just recently the published an article on this.

[@MARIACLAUDIAESCARENO]

Thanks very well explaint, I whish I would it seen this video before, now muy truck doesn't want to start!!!

[@jasonman1515]

Hey I kinda have a similar issue but the thing is, I checked bulkhead sleeve and its dry there. I have a 2010 f150 4x4, and it seems to me it looks like its leaking between the transfer case and the transmission. Trans pan is wet in the back and there is tiny bit of trans fluid on the trans bolt pan. its not the pan leaking, its leaking little bit above the pan. any suggestion?

[@The_huge_pen]

What was your issue? I think mines same issue.

[@Loudlevin]

Back when mercedes and chrysler where merged they had the same issue with there 5 speed autos, it even got so bad that the trans fluid would wick up the wire harness and contaminate the TCM contacts mounted in the engine bay.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Yeah I remember doing these sleeves on the Chrysler 300

[@Darkhalfcustoms]

But did anyone check the trans vent that is normally the problem that is pushing fluid out in the first place.

[@Hamchuck112]

Do I need trans grease or does the fluid usually work? I'm renting a lift at 9am tomorrow to do this. It's clearly leaking around the connector but to be safe I'm also replacing the pan gasket along with the filter of course.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

I always use trans grease

[@Hamchuck112]

@@FordTechMakuloco Is there a Motorcraft product? Have never seen trans grease but I'm not a mechanic. Just mechanically capable thanks to your videos.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

I use this grease that is safe to mix with transmission fluid- amzn.to/3qOdxhJ

[@Hamchuck112]

@@FordTechMakuloco Thanks for the link. Unfortunately I didn't see anything specific at Autozone this morning on my way to the shop so I just used some Mercon on the o-rings, but now I know for the future. Finished the job a couple of hours ago and was good for the 20 minute drive home so fingers crossed. Did gasket, filter, fluid, passthrough connector to solve my shuddering/harsh shifting due to a fluid leak around the electrical connector. Thanks so much for all you do. I did exactly per your 6R80 fluid change video and everything went smoothly! One of the few people on the internet I 100% trust.

[@paullongley8580]

does this have any control of reverse lights

[@donaldcogdill5679]

I removed my fill plug on my 6R60 ice cold and fluid came pouring out, is this normal? Or is this seriously overfilled?its been coming out for about 3 minutes now.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

The engine must be running

[@donaldcogdill5679]

I wasn't filling it I was dropping the pan to Change the filter and change the seals on the bulkhead connector. I did message you on FB with some issues I was having but have since figured that with a call to ford parts.

[@70carlton]

what is trans gel? and what year f150 has this problem?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

09-14 F150's and trans gel is an assembly lube for transmissions.

[@micahnease5038]

Thanks for all the videos. They have helped me out several times. I've got a 2009 f150 5.4 with the 6r80 transmission I believe, I recently changed the bulkhead sleeve and changed the filter. And had driven the truck several miles (200 miles or so) after having done so with no problems at all, and now all of a sudden, I'm getting a "no communication with tcm" code intermittently. Sometimes you can clear the code, and it'll run normal for a few days without throwing the code and going into limp mode, and sometimes it throws the code as soon as you clear it. Do you think I didn't get the sleeve in far enough, or is there another common mistake I could've made. When I changed the sleeve, it was extremely hard to get the white clip to push up, but I pushed in on the sleeve, and up on the clip and wiggled it, and finally got it to go in. I pulled the plug back off and cleaned the pins with contact cleaner and checked the pins, they don't appear to be bent or out of place, but I did notice a really small amount of trans fluid inside the plug. Any advice you could give me would be much appreciated.

[@03blasteryfs]

I have the exact same problem goin on

[@03blasteryfs]

have you found a solution?

[@GaryRing77]

+Micah Nease Did you ever find a solution to this issue? I am having the same problem.

[@365rallydailyracing]

Same issue here did anyone find that doing the install again with lube was the solution?

[@hearSUBLIME]

How have people resolved this problem? Running into the same exact thing...

[@eformance]

Funny that the Viton seals leaked and the replacements look to be Buna-N. Usually it's the other way around, Viton beats Buna-N!

[@FordTechMakuloco]

I hated when they went from copper to Viton impregnated seals on the 6.4L fuel lines they always leaked.

[@h2nms533]

Any thoughts why the white bulkhead locking mechanism will not push back up?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

H2NMS Yes the sleeve is not fully pushed in, lube the sleeve rings and wiggle it in till tight and hold while pushing up on white tab.

[@Robob]

I used a socket that just fit inside the outer part of the sleeve, ensuring that it wasn't contacting the pins and used a 6" extension to help push evenly on the sleeve. It shouldn't take much pushing pressure to make the locking tab go back up.

[@hawaiianf1504]

H2NMS had the same issue. Pressed really hard to get it to lock without success, almost to the point that i was worried i was going to break the white locking tab. Finally succumbed to using the old adapter with the new O-rings after i cleaned everything. Figured it was the original way it was done and the adapters locking grooves were in great shape. For sure i had it positively seated correctly - was just a serious pain to use the new plastic piece. Been three weeks without any leaks, no error codes and shifting is just as smooth as it was when new. BTW, i too know what LV tastes like. (forgot to relieve the pan pressure by opening the dip stick plug)

[@Mi_Haggs]

Thanks for the help. Had same issue. Was freaking out. It MUST be seated all the way to go back in. Will not go back in with No Sleeve inserted for testing. O ring lube worked better than Fluid did. Take your purse off and push on the new sleeve harder and the retainer will slide right up. Thank Fellas

[@lindapoworski2597]

@@hawaiianf1504 I did the same thing. I could not push the new sleeve in far enough even though it felt like it. I pushed the old sleeve back in thinking I broke the locking white clip but it went in perfect and locked so I took the old sleeve and put new orings but I still could not push it in far enough to engage the locking clip even though it felt it was. I lubed it and tried with a glove and with a socket but still can't get the locking clip up. This calls for man strength I guess. I feel so defeated. Thanks for all the great videos Brian. You are the best. I've pretty much rebuilt my 2009 F150 5.4 with all your videos.

[@Raydarman1]

I bought a new bulkhead sleeve with black orings from Ford

[@arthurknight8205]

Ford tech can you do a video on the sunroof of a F150 ? My 2010 F150 would not close and it seems to need a new sunroof rack so I have been told but guess what ? The parts can be purchased from ford and the sunroof Dr. on ebay. Can you do an instructional video ? By the way I did have my transmission done at the dealer and the trans is fine now.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Arthur Knight I will never likely see one of these. Best I can do is send the procedure from the workshop manual. You are replacing the whole sunroof track?

[@arthurknight8205]

FordTechMakuloco Thanks for the reply ! I am going to remove the entire assembly and install a repair kit I am getting from the sunroof doctor which has all the rails and connecting parts and rivets to reseal the assembly but yes please send info on the replacement. Most people say to remove the front passenger seat but what I am going to do is to just drop the headlinner with the seats layed down and let the headlinner remain inside the cab and just take out the sunroof assembly and do the repair kit on a bench thats the plan. If its gets complicated I can always take the assembly to a shop for help. By the way ! ALL of you videos are really good for us ford 150 guys so thanksa bunch !

[@arthurknight8205]

FordTechMakuloco Hey man ! Got the sunroof done and all went well the headlinner was really easy to remove just take out the visors and the two coat hanger clips on the B-pliller and remove the two rear inserts at the back of the linner just above the back slide window. Remove the track assembly but please take out the passenger seat and it will come out. Remove the glass and drill out the 3 rivets on both rear side of the track. Remove the old track parts and install the new per the instructions. The reinstall could take two guys but if you raise the driver seat upright it will assist you puttting assembly back in place. Do a manual test and them re-cal the motor !! done deal

[@JasonMcC]

Your videos are very helpful. They have saved me time and time again. I changed out the range sensor in my 2011 Ford F150 today. It will not crank or come out of park. Where should I start first? I really do not want to drop the pan again. Thanks again.

[@jeffg2866]

The measurement of the fully seated connector was 16mm? The reading on the tool was at about 40mm from case to edge of connector. Did I understand this wrong?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

You are reading the wrong side the bottom is the mm reading every 1 equals 10mm

[@jeffg2866]

@FordTechMakuloco Thanks

[@justhaulincars]

Can you clarify regarding the amount of trans fluid measurement on the dipstick. Do you fill to the bottom of the cross-hatch cold or after you've warmed the transmission fluid. Thanks.

[@emmarobbieus9107]

David Greeley did you ever find an answer? Mine is filled between the two, at running temp.

[@justhaulincars]

No, but mine is running in the cross hatch area.

[@joebags2034]

Great detail video i just changed my cooler lines put new filter and fluid wish i knew about this sleeve while i had it open .....after doing cooler lines and filter and fluid I'm stuck in one gear and no reverse wonder if i burnt a solenoid when my elbow touched the ends of them by accident

[@ben.s.castillo]

Very helpful video. Thanks.

[@andresortiz6332]

I can not get my truck out of limp mode. Never shuts off just weaker than what it used to be.

[@Mark-fg9pf]

Did you get it fixed? what was the problem? I have 2010 Sporttrac 8Cy Intermediate limp mode, trction light, engine light with TCM lost connection code.

[@apostolicchris2004]

I make thoughs very orings .here in new bedford mass..

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Nice!

[@DriveShaftDrew]

good vid

[@GearsRC]

I have 2010 f150 6R80 I replaced the bulkhead connector seals and the truck does start but, it displays the wrench and traction control icon. when I step on the the gas a little to 1500RPM and release RPMs go down then jump up to 2000RPM and drop back down on its own (Strange). I put it in reverse and go back 10 ft and it feels fine. I put it in drive and it just slips so I just put it back into park for fear of messing things up more. The distance from the edge of the bulkhead to the transmission case is 20mm is that good enough or do I need to drop the pan and reseat it?

[@GearsRC]

Well I put a scanner on the truck and I got about 9 error codes associated with ABS. So dropped the pan put some trans assembly gel on the sleeve and it slid in all the way to 16mm from flush. Filled her back up and the truck runs great. I will probably siphon/fill another 5 quarts in a month from now. Thank you for this great video.

[@BustinCasts]

I had to lube the o rings up pretty good to get the bulkhead sleeve to seat correctly on mine. Scratched my head for a bit before finally figuring out what my issue was.

[@365rallydailyracing]

Having the issue here too, intermittent wrench and check engine light. I crawl under the truck and disconnect the connection and reconnect and it clears the issue until it happens again.

[@BustinCasts]

You fellas sure that you're getting the connector seated all the way? When I did mine I referenced the final lever position that Brian shows in the video. As far as the sleeve itself, it should sit flush against the case where it goes in if I'm not mistaken. I was unable to get mine right initially, but it seemed like a little lubrication of the o rings got me where I needed to be. Good luck and keep us posted. 👍

[@ricardomarquez6243]

@@365rallydailyracing 16/5000 did you fix it

[@aviciitiesto8076]

👍🏼

[@RogerJavierSosaFernandez]

Español

[@chipete1]

1998 Ford Expedition every winter I experienced a loud winding noise coming from the front of the motor help me out if you can here is a link . Feel free to point out any other obvious problems. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pIq0YmdthatpbNU

[@FordTechMakuloco]

chipete1 In the winter the noise is usually coming from the alternator. Yours seems to be coming from the pcv valve. When it is doing this put your hand on the pcv valve you will feel the buzzing and they can make thing horrid noise like in your video.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Here is the original video I talk of in this video- kzbin.info/www/bejne/aXusnoGAgc-sb6c

[@markholub97]

I need help! My 2009 F150 is stuck in limp mode. I’ve replaced the lead frame, the bulkhead connector, and Purvis Ford replaced the wiring harness and the transmission still isn’t communicating with the truck. IDK what to do.

[@Murdoc_107]

@fordtechmakuloco is there a way to direct message you , 2010 raptor issue with transmission temp reading from 175-250 digital gage works but top right dash gage not working correctly then going into limp mode . Thank you

[@Daddy_and_Bo]

Hi sir Hoping to get some suggestions and recommendations. I have a 2021 ranger with 6k miles. I did some upgrade like BOV and MISHIMOTO CAI and mbrp exhaust. Recently I’ve been having problems with throttle body and turbo actuator wastegate malfunctions with codes P2118 and P2ABD went on limp mode with wrench icon and engine light. I was able to drive it back home. Still waiting for my appointment at the dealership.