Ford F250 F350 Super Duty 4X4 Brake Job Video

Replacing brake pads and rotors on a 2008 Ford f350 Super Duty 4X4. This process is similar to 1999-2013 Ford F250 and F350 Super Duty 4X4 trucks. Be sure to consult your repair manual for proper torque specifications for your specific application. Watch this video for more information.

[@GradyElla]

This man should be giving lessons to others on how to make great KZbin instructional videos. No goofy background music, no phones going off, not plugging someone's product lines, just well filmed, concise, accurate information presented in an orderly sequence that makes sense. Thanks Car Doctor! I am ready to do our F350 now. Just hope those rotors come off as easily for me as they did for you, but I have a sledge and know where to bang!

[@kenbrake2828]

Best video I've watched yet on how to do these brakes. Love that you have included the socket sizes and torque specs. I'm about to tackle this today.

[@mikejaxn]

Great video; I've done a ton of car/light-duty truck brake jobs and this helped me see what I needed to anticipate for an HD brake job - other than a larger torque wrench, I was good to go. Thanks very much for taking the time to put this together. Only thing I do a little differently is taking the brake fluid reservoir cap off in the engine bay before I push the caliper pistons in, and also pumping the brake pedal up as soon as I finish up and before I even put the vehicle in gear so I know I've got a firm pedal; maybe don't need to do it, but I had a drum brake job bite me for that reason many years ago.

[@AZNIGHTMARE21]

I don't know what I would do without the Car Doc's. videos, I've kept my F-250 on the road because of a lot of the videos. Thank You.

[@erikniemi1977]

Great video, to the point and very clear instructions. Good refresher if it's been a while since doing your last brake job.

[@ratherrapid]

Much appreciated, sir, which I watched prior to jacking up the 2008 Super Duty for the same work!

[@CharlesSmith-vf4hd]

Great video, has been a few years since I did brake pad job on my 1-ton. Was a great little refresher course!!

[@briankeller1908]

Man I tell ya, I've watched tons of these brake videos on here,,but by far your explanation and easy understanding of the job at hand was very useful..Thanks

[@ThecardoctorTV]

brian keller Thanks for the complement!

[@rustybaxter9606]

Oh wow, a video that mentions Torque specks. Amazing.

[@dasteufelhund]

See, this is how a video demonstration should be. Ideal lighting, angles and everything! AWESOME JOB AND THANK YOU!

[@stephaniegrow2001]

Compression of caliper barely shows just how compressed it should be. Nor does he address it verbally. Completely skips the part about installing hardware on the pads. Nor how to install the pads to the caliper mounting bracket. Nor does he discuss the importance of installing the pads to the bracket BEFORE installing the caliper to the bracket. Nor does he discuss the option of installing the caliper to the bracket before installing the bracket to the car - this is an important option for those concerned about getting the caliper to mount over the pad safety pins. Completely ignores alignment of the triangle head of the slide pins with the caliper. Fails to discuss cleaning the pad slide troughs in the bracket - this is a source of stuck caliper.

[@dasteufelhund]

@@stephaniegrow2001 I guess you needed those explained. What you listed is essentially one or two routine steps, those experienced would do it without breaking it down.

[@stephaniegrow2001]

@@dasteufelhund Theres nothing routine when making an instructional video.

[@dasteufelhund]

@@stephaniegrow2001 If you are not familiar with automobile brake change procedure, then I understand how it would be anything but routine for you. What should be routine, is safety and tool knowledge. If you still want to argue, take it to someone who knows the routine and pay them.

[@paulmaxwell8851]

The one thing I would add is to carefully lube the eight holes that the studs pass through, and the main hole that meets the hub. I like to use Permatex anti-seize compound. I'm always thinking ahead to the day I might want to remove that rotor again. Rust is our ever-present enemy, especially where road salt is used.

[@jeffwiles1744]

Tim, I miss Right Way Automotive. I'm going to be doing a brake job on my F350 this week. You taught me everything I know!

[@BassinProf]

One trick that no one seems to mention in these videos is to take the cap off of your brake fluid reservoir prior to using the c-clamp to push back the caliper pistons. Doing so makes it a LOT easier to push back the pistons. You do have to watch the reservoir to make sure the fluid doesn't pour over the top.

[@StephenWood]

Good point, thank you.

[@robertgeorge4064]

Open the bleeder valve instead. Fluid dumps and no fear of triggering brake light. Then top off res.

[@BassinProf]

@@robertgeorge4064 Yeah but then you're gonna risk getting air in the lines.

[@robertgeorge4064]

@@BassinProf just have someone step on the brake pedal when finished then close with pedal down. I’ve done dozens of times no problem. Or you’re right. Could get air.

[@topcat5777]

Nice video and thanks for sharing...when I do a brake job, before compressing any of the brake caliper pistons, I attach my pneumatic brake fluid bleeder hose on to the bleeder screw on the wheel I'm working on; and with the air compressor regulator set at about 100 PSI, I open the bleeder screw, purging- by vacuum the old brake fluid from the caliper reservoir until the fluid is clear. After closing the bleeder screw, I then compress the caliper pistons- thereby avoiding sending the old contaminated fluid back into the hydraulic lines, ABS module, and master cylinder. I hope my comment is found helpful.

[@krstoner53]

For the ones asking about the spring clips installation in the comments, it is best to separate the caliper from the anchor mount bracket and install clips already attached to the pads on the outward side of the caliper instead of trying to install from the inside of caliper. Also it is a lot easier to access the caliper and bracket on truck if you’ll turn the rear of the wheel and tire outward away from truck after jacking up the front end in case your 1/2” impact is like my HF and you need room to use a 3/4” breakdown bar with cheater pipe for the 166 torque spec of the anchor bracket bolts. Torque spec on caliper is 46 lbs on my F-350 and 26 lbs (some spec 35 lbs; mine stopped seeping at 31)on the flow bolt with the 2 copper washers and 133 inch lbs on the bleed screw

[@ThecardoctorTV]

26ft lbs on bleeder screw? Seems excessive.

[@krstoner53]

@@ThecardoctorTV Yes I corrected. I meant to say the flow bolt. Thanks

[@jimthecarguy]

Hi Tim ,Great video very professional brake job.Tim I like the view from your shop with the mountains in the back ground a lot better than mine.Keep up the good work.Jim

[@ThecardoctorTV]

+jimthecarguy Thank you sir. I am lucky to live in such a beautiful place.

[@gml326]

I always clean the oil off the rotors before i put them on so the new pads don't get oil on them i lay the rotors on a cardboard box not the cement spray them with break cleaner and they are ready to go.

[@glenross4958]

Thanks for showing me how to change brakes

[@shawncanada4365]

Really wish somebody would put out a video showing the clips installation on the pads

[@bsoutdooradventures9541]

My 2008 250 right front started binding and a very hot 275 with laser. I had to pull over smelled like burning brake pads. Limped into Ford dealer after a Search Rescue. Thanks for share so I can understand the components of brake system. Peachy B 👍👍🍑🍑❤️❤️.

[@BigTex347]

Hello Car Doctor - I wanted to watch your video to see how you install the metal clips that come with the replacement pads for my 2008 F250.. The last shop that replaced my break pads did not install the clips, and the breaks rattle when I hit a bump. I'm replacing the break pads myself and I see how you installed the clips - thanks and I'm finishing the job today.

[@vart7767]

great job my friend

[@HankAttack89]

Thank you this helped me a lot

[@brianmalboeuf5416]

Great video Car Doctor, thank you. Do you happen to have a video on a F-350, F-450 dually rear brake job?

[@mmc3051]

Thorough! Excellent!

[@ETryan90]

@the car doctor - hey question at first I noticed the lock out hub was removed then when the camera came back it was on again? Does that have to come off to remove the rotor? Thanks!

[@StephenWood]

Helpful. Thank you.

[@AlexDuncan-h8l]

Is the rear brake and calipers done the same? I was told I would need to pull the axle to do the rear.

[@robertgeorge4064]

That locking hub just vanished. Pure magic. Does the magic wand come in the kit?

[@ThecardoctorTV]

Extra cost.

[@kenhuff8493]

Thanks

[@fiveoclocksomewhere7404]

Great video! I DO NOT LIKE MY NEIGHBORS DOG!!! Therefore will be an accident because I 'forgot ' to pump my brakes before backing out of my driveway. Thank you Car Doc!

[@skipperga]

Great video. Wonderful detail. Thank you!

[@williamwheeler9708]

Thanks, Doc! Doing my F250 tomorrow!

[@ThecardoctorTV]

Hope it goes well. Take care

[@AhPhoey]

I was waiting to see him steaming mad at dirt....but I guess that's the Rug doctor.

[@frankvacanti5277]

What about the brake pad spring clips do they not need to be installed keep the brake pads pushed back away from the rotor

[@brendawoody6495]

Thank You your video help my son

[@FISHH00KS]

Thank you

[@ThecardoctorTV]

Thanks for watching

[@dameronlyon6740]

I usually open the brake master cylinder before compressing the piston,but I didnt hear him say that.I take he just compresses them with the cap still on?

[@howardhorne464]

Why did you skip the part of installing the brake clips?

[@davemitchell3558]

most excellent.....every situation is different.....it would be a way to get the neighbors dog to stop barking....chuckle

[@pcdtrucking7536]

Ultimate dumb ass I am Been working one side two hours before figuring out that I need to pry brake cylinder to get caliper off and only after watched a fucking KZbin video Thanks Alot.

[@rodrocha5683]

Awesome video as usual, question ive got though, my '01 250 4x4 has 2 different slider pins per caliper. 1 round and smooth and 1 with 3 slight flat spots. Does it matter which side of the bracket they go or are they interchangeable.

[@hotrod8670]

hi great video .. quick question do you add that lube on the caliber ears and pistons ,where the pads contact the caliber ?

[@wtbm123]

I am going to have to try the ceramic lube sometime . I see a lot of people using it.

[@ThecardoctorTV]

wtbm123 It seems to hold up well. give it a try.

[@spencerfenton]

Thanks so much for the video, really helped out

[@matthewb1601]

Very helpful video, thanks!

[@ThecardoctorTV]

+Matthew Bailey thanks for tuning in!

[@phillipmcfarling6356]

Thanks for the informative video. I realized from the video intro and ending that you recorded from the Cabelas parking lot that you are local in Anchorage. Easily recognized that storefront and mountain view. I appreciate the videos, but unfortunately, your great video and easy explanation takes business away from you.

[@MrGrummangoose]

Hi Tim, is there much difference in this process with a 2008 f450 superduty 10 lug 4x4? I have warped rotors on the front and am getting ready to replace with new ones and new pads!

[@CARMACALV]

thank you Sr. I appreciate. love your videos

[@ThecardoctorTV]

+CARMACALV Glad you like them. Thanks for watching!

[@gc7967]

Any idea how to replace the steel brake line that goes behind the front drivers coil spring on a 2008 F350 Super Duty?Looks like it goes between coil spring bracket and frame.

[@dasteufelhund]

If someone doesn't have a shop lift set up like what you have there, what would you recommend in terms of jack and stands? I've got a '03 Excur.v10 with lift too. Bottle vs. floor?

[@craigelrod6434]

Isn’t there usually 2 bolts holding the caliper to the bracket?

[@gerardoescobar3241]

Good morning doctor can you said the size of the tools disculpa mi mal English writing

[@rebeccasproule1255]

What a view in the background at the beginning of the video damn...

[@ThecardoctorTV]

Anchorage is an awesome place to live!

[@robertgeorge4064]

“First we’re gonna pop off the wheel”. Maybe first you should jack it up.

[@nakedgoatlastnamesarelame8868]

Iv watched like 8 videos trying to find out how to install those coat hanger type wire bits(Return springs?) for the front brakes on my 2004 f250. I cannot find anyone doing them. Does anyone know what there called or who shows how they go on?

[@itsaulgoodman9980]

Why did you take the locking hub off?

[@T_210]

Orientating the damn pad spring clips are the hardest part and you skipped it man. You're killing me... Thanks for the video though, I'm stuck as these Bosch pads don't have instructions on orienting the clips either)

[@jackiefreeman8239]

Great video doctor!

[@ThecardoctorTV]

Thank you!

[@jeffwilbourne384]

I know how to do what you showed its the removal of the 4wheel drive part ineeded to see

[@ministeriopalabraenaccion4584]

buen video saludos desde texas

[@JeremyMost73]

Car Doctor - This will be my first brake pad replacement on a heavy duty truck (2007 F250 4WD). I also would like to replace the brake fluid when I do this. Do you have a video for that? Or, any guidance to prevent making a mistake? Special tools, procedures, etc. I have a vacuum pump and bleeder bottle that I use on my motorcycle, but nothing further in the way of special tools. THANK YOU!

[@ThecardoctorTV]

I don't have a video yet for that. The vacuum system should be effective but the proper way would be to use a scan tool and the auto bleed procedure. Some air may be trapped in the ABS valves and you may need to safely operate the vehicle on gravel or snow and activate the ABS system between bleeding to allow air to pass to the calipers where it can be bled. This of course can be an unsafe situation if the brakes don't work right from having air in them so be careful.

[@dugfern]

didn't show clip install

[@seeyaoutdoors2day]

Hey Doc On to more pressing issue with this truck For the last two years I've had an intermittent problem with the motor. It first showed up when pulling a 31 ft boat to and from the beach 3 hr trip one way. Into the third hour of the trip, the turbo refused to spool up once to the destination and time to cool the truck ran fine. I sold the boat and as long as the trips were under three hour the problem did not show. But then about a month ago while driving on a shorter trip, it began to show the same problem and then it would lose power not run more than 30 mph and very little throttle response . But stop, even for a few minutes and it would restart and run for longer periods , until finally, it will not run more than 45 mins without losing power . The shop is run by a long time Ford mechanic, he replaced the fuel pump claiming it was worn out, but after the installation of a new one it only ran another hour before the same symptoms showed up Motor has 200k and has never been modified. I have in the last two years replaced the following high pressure pump injectors and fuel pump Your thoughts?

[@helljumpersargent1008]

It's been a month since you posted but my truck had a similar problem and it turned out to be a few temp sensors in the engine and turbo radiator.

[@kentagion]

bud coil packs, just get enough to change them all and change all of the plugs

[@eduardomelgar4954]

What brand rotors younused for this project?

[@paulyancey68]

Nice to the point video ..

[@ThecardoctorTV]

Thanks so much.

[@glennlienhop342]

Great vid Doc I wish I would of watched this vid before I ran over the neighbors dog , just kidding Ha ! Very informational

[@ThecardoctorTV]

hehehe

[@Thatwackytech]

I have one point on contention, & one difference of opinion in a world where there is a mile-wide "grey-area" of different ways "to skin a cat".... Contention: I see many guys here mentioning an issue with the under-hood mess from overflowing the Master when re-compressing pistons... Your vehicle is TRYING to tell you something, that being, that you're pushing old, heat/crust/debri/corrosion-laced contaminated brake fluid BACKWARDS into your almighty ABS control module at the same time that you're pissing brake fluid all over your under-hood components, & paint. Potential plugging of the flex-hose, & the very RUIN of the ABS module become VERY REAL possibilities.... YUK!... SO!... WHILE the caliper is Still on the bracket, (to keep the bleeder @ the TOP of the caliper) Crack open the bleeder as you squeeze the piston(s) in.... Only crack one side @ a time, & if you really wanna cut down on the MESS, plug a vacuum line to the bleeder-head, & poke that hose into an old (empty) quart bottle of oil to catch it. Right B4 you finish squeezing, pop the vacuum-hose off, & WATCH whats coming out the bleeder to verify it's JUST fluid, & NO air-bubbles... Got it? GOOD! Crank that bleeder tight, & SMILE, knowing that YOU know MORE about doing a PROPER brake-job than 90% of the tire-store-Hacks out there... Then, check the condition of the brake fluid in the bottle to decide if further bleeding is warranted... maybe even pop the resouvoir off the master cylinder, & wash IT out too. (LEMMEE KNOW if you guys need a play-by-play on bench-bleeding/flushing/cleaning a Master-cyl.) Or pop the whole M/C off & flush, or even replace if there's bunches of black "silt" in the resouvoir, `cuz that's what USED to be the M/C seals..... OK, Now for my personal opinion... I rip the "Anti-Squeal" shims off of EVERY single brake-job that I do, for the EXACT reason that they do the OPPOSITE of what their named for... (They come in GREAT for quicky-cheap repairs on sagging front plastic bumpers w/the mounting tabs all destroyed, for folks not concerned over asthetics. 4 drill-tip screws, a trimmed piece of shim, & a shot of color-close paint... I get 100$ for a "Tight-n-solid" bumper-skin, instead of Thousands from a body-shop)... Look at the TOP GRADE pads, such as WAGNER Thermo-Quiets. NO cheap-assed steel shim to creep out of position or rust, CAUSING the squeal there... TRY squeezing SMALL dabs of "RIGHT STUFF" SUPER-silicone on the insides of the caliper jaws, & even on the edges of the caliper pistons where they make contact with the pad... MY "squeak-comebacks" have dropped to literally ZERO since adapting this change in brake installation procedure... Oh, & BTW for you guys who get your rotors turned @ the parts store, IF IF IF you hear that lathe MOANING, or making ANY noize other than "Shhhhhh".... they're RUINING your rotors! Get on their ass, & TELL them to put some $%^&&*^%$ SHARP BITS in that lathe!!! (& maybe even attach the rubber silencer band around the rotor, instead of using it to hold the bathroom door shut..LOL)

[@mdemory]

yup never push dirty fluid back through your abs system

[@Heslip01]

Will these fit older f350s (1990)

[@orion6622]

Hi Tim, did you open up the brake master cylinder to relieve pressure when resetting the caliper pistons?

[@ThecardoctorTV]

+Ryan Ballance I did not. It will vent out the top but after pumping the brakes I cleaned the master cylinder, removed the cap and made sure the boot under the cap was properly situated. If it's been a while since the brake fluid was flushed and you have the capability it's a good idea to open a bleeder valve before compressing the caliper piston so that the old fluid is not forced back into the system then the system is flushed and bled properly.

[@orion6622]

Perfect, thanks.

[@JoseRamirez-ie2bk]

Price for front brake job?

[@filibertovargas8354]

i love your air gun

[@ThecardoctorTV]

Thanks, its a real workhorse. Appreciate you dropping by!

[@SerenoOunce]

Didn't show where the squealer tab goes which is the only reason I watched this video. FYI, it goes on the bottom OUTER, not the inner like you would expect. Also, the design of putting the abutment clips on the pads and not the bracket itself is just dumb. Leaves the cast metal exposed. Regardless of how well you lube them up this is just gonna accelerate rust jacking.

[@seeyaoutdoors2day]

when replacing the caliper, does the new one come with fluid in it? If not how much should be added prior to the install and if so should I top it off before connecting the line?

[@ThecardoctorTV]

No fluid. Just need to bleed the system after. Probably need a QT or two of fluid to properly bleed the system

[@seeyaoutdoors2day]

Thanks for the reply. Its working perfectly

[@nguyentuan1990]

where you buy your parts?

[@CARMACALV]

what rotors yoy recommend for my 05 ford excursion? thanks

[@ThecardoctorTV]

+CARMACALV If its rear wheel drive and you have access to an advance auto parts or carquest I would go with PER54129 for the front rotors. NAPA also carries the same performance rotors for that application. If you have a 4X vehicle you may have to go with a different brand. The wearever frontline rotor is decent if you have a 4X application. Check with your local parts supplier or look at ebay and amazon for performance rotors for your application. Good luck

[@kevinoneill41]

👍👍

[@tampiquenaenhouston3701]

what is the temperature for this rotor on normal use i have overheating

[@DanWebster]

You da man

[@ThecardoctorTV]

Thanks Paw Paw.

[@aaronmgray]

I'm bumming. I used the C clamp method here without releasing pressure on the bleeder. Now for the last 20 mins my caliper is dripping a drop ever 5-8 seconds from somewhere inside. Not from the bleeder. I have since pumped the brakes to decompress the piston and even used my hydraulic bleeder tool but drip drip drip drip. Hmmmm

[@ThecardoctorTV]

Sounds like a bad caliper. It happens. Probably not because of not opening the bleeder.

[@aaronmgray]

I thought the same thing that it was possible. I went to Napa and bought two new calipers with brackets, $80 each. They are FoMoCo rebuilt, lifetime warranty. The rest of my install went fine. If I have to do it again at any point, I will probably just open the bleeder to be safe and use the same C clamp method. It may be unnecessary, but better safe than sorry I guess. Thanks for the video.

[@darrylt1031]

like the Car Dr said.....it was due to a bad caliper.....not the bleeder screw....the standard procedure is to NOT open the bleeder.......

[@stephaniegrow2001]

@5:03, 6:24, 7:51 - hilarious!

[@CharlesSmith-vf4hd]

Now wont have any of those Oh!! yea ah haaa!!

[@user-rx9ey6rd2d]

Neighbors Dog woof

[@5400bowen]

No one mentions cleaning and checking the bores in the bracket where the slider pins go. Big, big mistake. The old grease in the bores is a really bad idea to leave in there. And how do you inspect the bores when dirty. Clean around the banjo bolt before disassembly. Don’t use a screw driver tip on the face of the rotor if you are reusing it. Who would use the old break pads? All that work? What, you replaced the pads and then went back in to do the rotor? Doesn’t make any sense. A lot is left out and done wrong in this video. Really it’s best practice to clean the whole shebang before you start. And when you drive it you pump the brakes before you drive it, and then test the brakes gingerly and at very low speed, gradually testing them at higher speeds and brake application. Then you get up to 30 mph several times and use the brakes to almost stop with moderate pressure a few times, driving a few blocks in between each time. There’s more, but only the first one’s free....

[@ThecardoctorTV]

thanks Karen!

[@jameswilliams9983]

hu

[@timmytool1231]

Started with a Biden ad, screw this!

[@ThecardoctorTV]

I guess he is trying to reach Ford owners...hehe

[@jeanmajor3752]

Hi Tim, great video, I really enjoyed watching it. I am replacing my front brakes pads & disk on my F350 (2010) with the same hardware you used in this video. I am having trouble finding the proper way to install one of the metal clip’s, it is the one that has a small hole and kind of a straight blade, I was wandering if you can explain how to install or have a picture somewhere. I found only pictures of the Disk Brake Pad Installation Kit but not how it is installed. I am not sure if we are allowed to post a link, but in the following picture, it is the bottom 2 clips (www.carid.com/2008-ford-f-250-brake-parts/carlson-disc-brake-pad-installation-kit-37898165.html) Thanks in advance.

[@ThecardoctorTV]

IM trying to picture it without the pads sitting in front of me and im racking my brain. I think that's the wear indicator but I cant remember how it attaches. Ill try to remember and let you know if I do.

[@jeanmajor3752]

Thanks.

[@brickmason26]

Like how ypu skipped right past how to install the clips great waste of time

[@ThecardoctorTV]

Clips?

[@5400bowen]

And finally (NOT!) all the repair videos that show using brake clean or any solvent, when opening up gas lines...any nasty chemicals (they all cause cancer etc.) you should always wear a VOC rated respirator mask. And until you cannot smell the stuff any more. This facet of virtually every KZbin auto repair video is a really BAD aspect. Wake up.

[@ThecardoctorTV]

I used the product following the recommended precautions and instructions. However nothing wrong with being safe and wearing a good respirator. Thanks for the tip.