Ford Focus Mk1 - 1.4 & 1.6 Water Pump Change Quick Instruction video!

A quick guide for someone who needs a hand asap, I hope this helps :) For 1.4 and 1.6 Zetec-SE (Sigma) engines only! Sorry for the bad lighting and rushed demeanour of the video but needs must when help is needed!
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[@oliverpowell3141]

Why is it whenever I find a decent mk1 info video from you, it then needs to be done to my car! Absolute pain this job is, but thanks for the pointers they were a huge help today. Haynes manual is very wrong for this task as the timing belt cover must be removed and although I decided it would be a good chance to get a new thermostat in, I did find it easier with the alternator off. New ford pump came with vague gasket refitting directions that didn’t quite match the pump, but used gasket logic and followed furthest opposite pattern and worked outwards. I did take my time with this job, as there was a lot of challenging steps I haven’t done yet, such as with the engine mounts. Hopefully done everything correctly, not tested yet as I ran out of time today to put the alternator and cam belt back on. Thanks again!

[@usuallyfixingtinkering]

Fantastic job! Well done for taking your time and when people say they followed each step logically my feeling is your all ready 90% of the way there! Its a funny job but well worth it!

[@oliverpowell3141]

@@usuallyfixingtinkering cheers mate. Next time I can do it quicker, just the fact there were a few bits I hadn’t touched before. Although the Haynes manual informs better for the other jobs like engine mounts drive belt thermostat and coolant renewal etc all those things combined make it massive job really for something that’s actually relatively simple. Annoyingly, I renewed my coolant a couple months ago but can’t reuse it because a lot of it sat out exposed and got contaminated whilst it was sat leaking on my drive.

[@usuallyfixingtinkering]

the haynes manual makes everything feel like it should be much easier than not - the manual was done on a relatively new car! these are not obviously and there are many age-related challenges that get thrown up! I should write my own book lol!

[@oliverpowell3141]

@@usuallyfixingtinkering Yep! I usually cross references forums videos to the manual and 9 times out of 10 there’s a better way. Probably should to be honest!

[@KJM.72]

Good informative vlog Andrew enjoyed the livestream last night keep the vlogs coming 👍

[@usuallyfixingtinkering]

I certainly will Kev cheers!

[@hyperjon3903]

Does the water pump housing not go underneath the timing belt idler pulley requiring timing belt replacement on these engines?

[@usuallyfixingtinkering]

Not on this engine the idler pulley is at the top, not obstructing the water pump so no need to remove the belt. I've done it before on mine.

[@alexlovelady6310]

Thank you very much.

[@usuallyfixingtinkering]

Forgot to mention, to get the pulley back on - use the technique of two spanners that I showed you. You don't have the belt to help you put it back on :)

[@alexlovelady6310]

@@usuallyfixingtinkering Thanks mate :)

[@roxy806]

Really wish someone will give us diyers some good advice on refitting and torquing the water pump pulley on mk1s

[@usuallyfixingtinkering]

Torque settings are stupidly low on each of the small 8mm bolts, 7NM! Just hand tight and give a slight nip - basically!

[@roxy806]

@@usuallyfixingtinkering that was quick. Thanks. Basically what I did. Haynes says 25 nm but I cant check cause of lack of space and even if i make space for one at a time at the top i cant stop the pulley from spinning. I also tried with the belt on which allowed an extra marginal bit of torque but not sure if they made it to 25 nm as per haynes

[@usuallyfixingtinkering]

@@roxy806 sorry I misread the earlier post - the pulley bolts - put all the bolts in as much as possible before the pulley starts spinning. Then place/hold a spanner across two of them bolts while tightening the bolt you want to tighten, don't bother with torque settings, just as tight as you can :)