Ford Focus MK1 - What you need to know about the Cooling System

Another blog in the world that is MK1 Focuses... this time I take you through the cooling system and what to look out for!
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#ford# fordfocus #coolantleak

[@ahmadderi4219]

Thanks for the great information.👍

[@usuallyfixingtinkering]

Thankyou sir!

[@andrewwalsh5837]

Just come across your channel recently, just suscribed , i have a mk1 1.6 focus zetec on a y reg, bought it 3 years ago for £300 lol with 6 months mot, still have it, just passed the mot again but advisories about the common rust issues, the only things ive replaced is the water pump, bearings went and was noisy and leaking, and coil pack leads and plugs, did have a fuel pump issue last year, turned it off then it wouldnt start, only parked up 5 mins, the pump 15a fuse was blown, replaced fuse and it was ok, it happened a couple of times but been fine in 10 months , never done it again, it does need the front controls arms replacing as its knocking over little bumps in road, the bushes i guess, but overall a bargin car, done nearly 50,000 miles in it now

[@andrewwalsh5837]

The only thing i have no history on is the cambelt, car on 128,000 miles now, but it cant be original cambelt, must of had a couple off changes in its 22 year lifetime

[@callumdgibson]

@@andrewwalsh5837 I would be quite worried about having a car with no documented camblet history. I would get a garage to inspect it and see what the condition is like and change it a lot sooner to prevent a worse-case situation. My car is 04 plate 1.6 petrol on 60k and the belts were only changed 2 years back! Extremely lucky that did not snap as they need replacing every 10 years or 100,000 as according to manufactor

[@TheMcooper17]

really useful info, as far as im aware the AC compressor is at the front of the engine, Condensor is infront of the wider , accumulator is behind the front right bumper with high side line going from compressor to condensor, lowside line going from condensor to evaporator which i read is in the same place as the heater matrix hence the mention of AC drain but i dont see any ac lines in the back of the engine bay

[@usuallyfixingtinkering]

this is news to me, most AC systems are very similar but having an accumulator instead of a dryer (named so because of where it's placed in the system apparently)

[@TheMcooper17]

@@usuallyfixingtinkering Yes your right it is a Dryer, but i dunno if you have a video on how the AC is routed for those looking to add it

[@SonofChurchill]

Great info thanks

[@usuallyfixingtinkering]

No problem! :)

[@playcrafter27]

Hey nice video. I recently switched from a manual to the automatic heating and let me say it’s not that easy you have to switch everything all the wires behind the Dashboard and also the complete heating element behind the dash it is only worth it if you really want it/ or if you have the parts already if not don’t do it. 😅

[@usuallyfixingtinkering]

Thanks for sharing this information as it's exactly the trouble it sounds unless you have the know-how and parts, I have to say well-done because very few have fully achieved this!

[@oliverpowell3141]

Thanks for the info, though would like to know more about draining and renewing coolant. Haynes and other sources say there is a plastic plug somewhere on the bottom of the radiator and for the life of me I cannot find it. I am not sure I even have one. Am I missing something or is it okay to drain from the large bottom hose?

[@usuallyfixingtinkering]

there is a plastic plug below the bottom radiator hose :)

[@oliverpowell3141]

@@usuallyfixingtinkeringcheers. Actually discovered I don’t have a drain plug, perhaps the radiator was replaced or just different, so will have to drain by disconnecting the pipe at the bottom. Also just discovered my expansion tank is leaking, so good time to swap both that and the coolant.

[@IntoTheWonderfu11]

Like your videos, keep up the good work. I have a great condition 60k Focus 1.6 Lx recently the temp gauge reads slightly to the right of top dead center, is this ok ? The car runs perfectly and is fully serviced, just unsure about the guage reading.

[@usuallyfixingtinkering]

Thanks buddy I'll do my best! The gauge is rubbish, basically as I said the ECU controls the gauge, it should sit in the middle so for some reason it's getting a littler hotter than usual. This could be an air lock as they can happen but rarely! Sometimes the thermostats get old and stick shut or partialy shut/getting lazy. I'd personally drain the coolant, change the thermostat and flush with a hose and refill with fresh oat coolant for peace of mind long-term.

[@IntoTheWonderfu11]

@@usuallyfixingtinkering Thanks, berore I replace is there anyway to test the thermostat is working, what would happen if I left the engine idleing for a while to get hot ? I only do short journeys pehaps it needs to get hot ?

[@aftermath844]

@@usuallyfixingtinkering At what degrees does the fan open on the focus 1.4 2002 hatchback?105'C???

[@usuallyfixingtinkering]

@@aftermath844 correct!

[@joseruimoreira9525]

Hello, I have a heating problem with my Focus Mack 1 with the heating. I've already changed the thermostat and the problem persists, when it reaches 93º the fan turns on and doesn't turn off again, and apparently the water doesn't circulate also the water pump is new!! could it be the sensor?

[@usuallyfixingtinkering]

correct, no way should the fan be turning on at 93! Its the Cylinder head temperature sensor and yours is telling the ecu the wrong readings hence why the fan is coming on too soon! It should normally turn on at 102 degrees.

[@paulleggett9735]

Another good vid I'm catching up on. Don't forget the plastic pipe that sits atop of the radiator. Commonplace to crack . It did on my 1.8 and creates lots of steam as the exhaust is at the front on the 1.8. dramatic but a simple fix. Gates make replacement p/n 1108264

[@usuallyfixingtinkering]

Thanks for that number! Metal ones can be sort for the 1.8/2.0. The 1.4/ 1.6 never got any plastic pipe thankfully

[@paulleggett9735]

@@usuallyfixingtinkering I figure the plastic ones last 20+ years I can't ask much more than that.but you are correct , the cooling system is so robust on these.

[@paulridley3184]

Hi Andy have just replaced the coolant inlet plastic pipe on my mark1 1.8 focus zetec genuine ford £42.00 ☹️ not considering its original as are all the hoses by the look of it👍

[@GeorgeV_3352]

Does it matter what coolant I get as long as it is OAT coolant? What coolant brand did you go with?

[@usuallyfixingtinkering]

It doesn't matter what OAT coolant, mine was mannol.

[@GeorgeV_3352]

​​@@usuallyfixingtinkeringSo I just changed my coolant reservoir tank on my Focus, since it was leaking, Now all i need to do is flush the coolant and put new coolant in since I have put in quite a bit of distilled water and the 50/50 balance is definitely off (I could have just added coolant in the first place but since I got it used I don't know what the previous owners put in it, just that it's pink, and I would like to flush it and have it all the same coolant). My concern is, you say that due to the aluminum block the coolant should be nice and clean, and my coolant was, but the tank itself had quite a bit of gunk in it. Should that concern me or is it fine since the coolant itself is nice and bright pink?

[@djVania08]

Does the thermostat actually turn something on, since the pump is directly connected to the engine, or is it just to check the temperature in case of overheating?

[@usuallyfixingtinkering]

No it just regulates the temperature in general. The Engine Temp Sensor which sits between the plugs tells the ecu the temp and the ecu operates the temp gauge in car and operates the fans when 103 degrees is reached (or slightly more)

[@djVania08]

It regulates the temp how exactly? If I may ask. I might have some cooling issue and my gauge is not showig the temp properly. So trying to find out ways how to troubleshoot it.@@usuallyfixingtinkering Thanks for your reply btw. :)

[@usuallyfixingtinkering]

@@djVania08 it's a simple wax capsule that allows coolant to circulate into the radiator part of the system at 83 degrees. It's fully open at around 96 degrees lowing full flow into the radiator and therefore cooling the coolant as it goes back into the engine.

[@djVania08]

@@usuallyfixingtinkering I understand now. So it's directly part of the tubing and works like a self regulating valve. Thanks a lot Do they need to be changed here and there?

[@usuallyfixingtinkering]

@@djVania08 every single often. They can get lazy after so many years. Usually when thermostats fail they stick shut and can cook the engine!

[@sfrskz]

have a question; if sensor goes faulty are we going to see dtc in every situation?

[@usuallyfixingtinkering]

The Temperature sensor? I'm unsure if it will go into limp home mode but will certainly flag a light

[@sfrskz]

As far as I know from 3D printers, even if the temperature sensor is not adjusted correctly, the software measures the temperature according to the adjusted thermistor and the software part cannot detect the real temperature. Now, even if the situation is not the same, let's say the temperature sensor is not completely broken, but it just reads wrong temperature values, can the ecu still see this as an error? Or does it accept the incoming data as it is? @@usuallyfixingtinkering

[@sfrskz]

@@usuallyfixingtinkering In the meantime, I changed everything that could be related to the car starting late. crank sensor, spark plugs, coil, fuel filter, fuel pressure regulator(i have 3 spares now lol), battery. pump is ok. A good mechanic said that the raw fuel smell and hesitated late start may be due to the engine temperature sensor because the fuel-air mixture is not adjusted properly.

[@chris10184]

I bought a mk1 focus cheap a few months ago and found it's overheating. Where the thermostat housing is, the pipe that goes into it (not for the heating), the big one. It seems to remain cold. Basically no coolant is flowing through the system. Any ideas what that could be? I've noticed the coolant reservoir seems fill to near the top when it's overheating. I've not been able to drive it anymore because I don't want to damage it more than it's already damaged.

[@chris10184]

The fan does seem to come on at around 120 degrees c. I have replaced the coolant temperature sensor (the one you showed in this video as a way to test the fan). That hasn't helped. I have flushed the system of coolant twice. I'm just curious, you mentioned that the system bleeds itself, does that come through the cap on the coolant reservoir? ? Sorry lots of questions. Just been struggling to get it to work :(

[@chris10184]

I've not replaced the water pump though a garage says they replaced the thermostat. I had a test done to show see if there's a gases causing from burning up coolant coming from the system and it did come back positive. Though I wonder if that would happen anyway with an engine that gets to 130 degrees c and not necessarily a headgasket issue. I'm not losing any coolant that I've noticed either.

[@usuallyfixingtinkering]

Firstly MK1's with a good cooling system should rarely hear the electric fan kicking in unless an extremely hot summers day idling in heavy traffic for some minutes. I have to say this very confusing but if your not loosing coolant then the head gasket test was done wrong and a false result appeared. What I think is causing an issue is the thermostat is not positioned correctly, there's a jiggle pin which bleeds air into the reservoir part of the system, it has to be a 12 o clock otherwise you'll have potentially trapped air which is what it sounds like, the trapped air in the heater matrix part of the system. Squeeze both the heater hoses thoroughly along their length but I think the thermostat has been positioned incorrectly and causing trapped air during the filling process to remain trapped and causing a higher engine temperature in the first place. Coolant sensor does nothing apart from communicate with ecu and operate the fans, won't control engine temp. The cap does indeed vent out and on a MK1 it should be simple but sometimes air can get trapped and I think it's the issue here!

[@TGameMaster1993]

I just noticed on your car, did you removed the heat shield/fabric, what ever that thing is, located on the back wall of the engine bay(the wall that the break fluid reservoir mounts to)? It looks way to clean to have the original heat shield in place.

[@usuallyfixingtinkering]

Correct - it makes no difference to sound insulation and looks absolutely horrible after years! Had to go.

[@TGameMaster1993]

@@usuallyfixingtinkering but it's for sound insulation or heat protection? Because I thought it's for heat protection, and I was a bit afraid to remove it.

[@usuallyfixingtinkering]

@@TGameMaster1993 it does very little in both senses if you want to remove it. The heat insulation pad is just to deflect heat away from the scuttle but never felt bad effects

[@TGameMaster1993]

@@usuallyfixingtinkering If you didn't notice any bad effects then I think I will remove it too. Because it looks disgusting, and in the corners, where the drains are, is always wet and muddy... Thank you!

[@usuallyfixingtinkering]

Remove it buddy - you will need to be careful and take your time it will get dusty when pulling it apart and you may have to release the 4 brake servo bolts slightly from behind the brake pedal to move the servo forward slightly of the bulkhead to get that material out fully from around it :)

[@aftermath844]

I have a problem with ventiator fan.Can you help me?

[@usuallyfixingtinkering]

which fan are you referring to?

[@aftermath844]

@@usuallyfixingtinkering I dont Know.I have a ford focus 1.4 2002 hatchback model and technician tell me the fan is on at 105'C.Syrange...all ventilators works from 80 to 90'C.Never see the ventilator works 2 years now to buy this car...!!!Sorry for my english.

[@usuallyfixingtinkering]

it may need replacing, pull the wiring off the temperature switch between number 2 and 3 spark plugs and the fans should work with ignition on. If they don't it needs a new one.

[@aftermath844]

@@usuallyfixingtinkering thank you so much!I wii try it alone.Greetings from Greece!

[@usuallyfixingtinkering]

@@aftermath844 I hope it helps! Welcome :D

[@grahameleslie]

a little lesson...my ebay coil pack failed after a few months..misfire on no 3...get oem parts

[@scottykilmer3920]

Oem on these are Bosch. But you can also get another good brand like Champion, Ngk, Beru, cant go wrong with one of these.

[@usuallyfixingtinkering]

Bosch make the genuine 'Ford' ones so you can't go wrong there. Aftermarket coil packs feel very light compared to the heavier OEM ones!

[@davyarthurs]

buy cheap, buy twice :-( Hope new part works ok 🙂

[@justinasvalius]

How fix overheating problem int his model car? I bought this model, but it didn't have a thermostat, I put a new thermostat in it and now the whole system boils in 20mins :(

[@usuallyfixingtinkering]

one thing, the thermostat has a jiggle pin, it should always be at 12 o'clock position otherwise air is not allowed to vent to the coolant expansion tank! It didn't boil before with the thermostat removed?

[@justinasvalius]

@@usuallyfixingtinkering yes, without him it never boiled.