Ford Taurus - PASSENGER TEMPERATURE BLEND DOOR ACTUATOR Replacement / Removal (2010-2019)

This video applies to DUAL ZONE Climate Control Ford Taurus. No heat or a/c on passenger side?It blows cold or warm? Step-by-step guide on how to remove / replace HVAC passenger side heater temperature blend door actuator. ( 2010 | 2011 | 2012 | 2013 | 2014 | 2015 | 2016 | 2017 | 2018 | 2019 | SE | SEL | LIMITED | AWD | 3.5L ).
If climate control doesn't work on passenger side of your taurus and blower is stuck on either warm or cold air, this is the video for you.
I am showing what the replacing process of right side blend actuator which is located behind the glove box. Two 8mm screws are holding it and there is one connection which has to be disconnected. This is not the easiest task because it is very hard to access top screw due to wiring harness being on the way. But it is doable.
New actuator is quite cheap and if you can replace it by yourself this will be an easy fix for you. It is very uncomfortable driving in the winter with no heat or in the summer with no A/C working.
Good luck.
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⚠ DISCLAIMER:
While QuiteAlright strives to make the information provided in this video as accurate as possible, it makes no claims, promises, or guarantees about the accuracy, completeness or applicability of the content. The videos are intended for information only. Follow the manufactures repair procedure and use appropriate safety procedures. No information contained in this video shall create any expressed or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. All do-it-yourself projects entail some risk. It is the sole responsibility of the viewer to assume this risk. QuiteAlright is not responsible or liable for any loss damage (including, but not limited to, actual, consequential, or punitive), liability, claim, or any other injury or cause related to or resulting from any information posted in this video.

[@JayyBird93]

Got it out the same way by turning an 8mm deep socked by hand after breaking it loose with a 1/4 ratchet. Not that bad of a job once you have a path. Thank you for the upload! This fixed my issue of passenger side temp being stuck in one spot. 2014 Ford Taurus SEL

[@QuiteAlright]

Nice work and thanks for commenting

[@CourtneysAuntSara]

OMG WE DID IT!!! Took two day, but we got it done. Thank you for this video and thank you for the encouragement!!

[@QuiteAlright]

Good job :) . I know it's hard, I did lots of swearing while doing it.

[@rileyv6707]

Thanks so much for this. You were right about the second screw, but an even bigger pain was plugging the wire back in! Also dropped one of the bolts in the dash so I had to get another. All done now and the heat works great! 2013 Taurus SEL

[@QuiteAlright]

No problem and I'm glad I was able to help

[@tortus15]

Thanks for the video, replaced the passenger side door actuator today Nov 17/23 used a large flathead screwdriver to turn the gear inside the heat box to see if the heat comes to the PS vents, found it easier to use a 8mm socket with an adhesive inside to hold the screw from dropping on a 1/4 in universal with a 8 in extension on a ratchet it's a bitch getting the wire connector out and back in and the new actuator out and back in.

[@QuiteAlright]

You're most welcome. I'm glad you were able to do it and thanks for sharing your story. It will definitely help other people to do it

[@TheOgre]

OMG! This is the same style as the 2009 Mercury Sable I'm having issues with. That black box in front of the actuator was preventing me from doing anything and this video shows it is possible! I now have faith I don't have to take apart the whole dash!

[@QuiteAlright]

Thanks for the comment and good luck fixing your Sable ;)

[@CourtneysAuntSara]

How do you get the damn black cover off

[@TheOgre]

@@CourtneysAuntSara @COURTNEYS AUNT SARA You actually don't. You have to take an extended 8mm socket and contort your hand around behind the blower and black box to reach the rear bolt, get it started out, then turn it by hand.

[@CourtneysAuntSara]

@@TheOgre I was able to get the screws out however I can’t seem to unplug it. It’s embarrassing how long it took me to remove the screws.

[@TheOgre]

@@CourtneysAuntSara Not embarrassing at all! It's in a ridiculous spot. To get an idea of the taking the plug off, it's the same one that is on the blower by the foot area facing you. The push tab on that plug is the same. You just have to fiddle with it with one or two fingers up there to try and get it loose. Also, there is a slight bit of extra length in the cable so you can move the actuator out of the hole to get a better attack on the connector. Just keep at it, you'll get it!

[@ericmcclellan6753]

I can’t get the second screw out due to the plastic wiring cover. I’m about to start drinking. A lot.

[@QuiteAlright]

I know what you mean. It took me half hour or even longer. Maybe try removing that plastic cover if you can. There should be 2 clips, 1 on top and 1 on the bottom

[@ericmcclellan6753]

@@QuiteAlright I ended up getting a micro ratchet from Auto Zone and it was no problem. I don’t know how long I tried to remove the plastic cover, but I never could get the top clip unfastened. Thanks for making the video! It took a while to get the actuator changed but you helped me save $400 that I would have had to pay a professional.

[@QuiteAlright]

I'm glad the video helped. Usually with the right tools this kind of things are easier. But I always end up not having that "right" tool :)

[@mattyc5697]

The back screw is seemingly impossible to get to. After an hour I just took the front screw out and used a flat head to bust the white top open to reveal the circle gear (near the back) that controls the blend door. I used the screwdriver to turn the gear and viola! HEAT! Now I just have to turn the gear back to cold as summer approaches to open the AC. Simple enough. Reply

[@TopekaRealEstate]

Thanks for the video. Exact problem as my 2014 Taurus. Passenger side as well.

[@QuiteAlright]

Glad it helped

[@johnmelser73]

Thank you so much this helped tremendously!!! Now my daughter doesn't have to ride with the back window down thank you

[@QuiteAlright]

You are so welcome!

[@ozzy627]

great video. thank you for posting!

[@QuiteAlright]

My pleasure!

[@Justanothertekguy]

Thanks Man, perfect instruction. I did have to use my 14yo son's tiny hands to reach that rear bolt.

[@QuiteAlright]

Thanks for watching and I'm glad my video helped you out

[@TheSnatchbuckler]

I've had to do it twice. Ended up using like 3 swivels connected together. Lol. It's no wonder some shops quote like 500 bucks to do it. Because it's worth it. Never cussed so much in my life.

[@Ngcron215]

So i have a question what is the thing called that you plug the actuator in to that’s broke In my car but idk what it’s called

[@TKPLTD]

Hi and Thanks for this awesome video... I have a question... What is the part called this Actuator goes in? I changed this out and it still blows cold air... I believe the thing the actuator goes in is broke and will not open and close like is supposed to... Any help is appreciated... Thanks

[@QuiteAlright]

I think it is called air plenum chamber. Check out the schematics: parts.ford.com/shop/en/us/climate-control/ac-repair-parts/motor-assy-7836065-1#sectionId:4195726 There is schematics pics down left, under the main picture. Did you make sure the new actuator works before you installed it in? If not, try to plug in just the wire connector, then try changing the temperature and see if the white knob turns

[@jeffsgarage1969]

Thank you 🇺🇸

[@QuiteAlright]

Very welcome

[@russellwaters9273]

The computer states that you should pull fuse 46 which is the body control module for at least 1 min this will reinitialize and calibrate the actuator stop points then reinstall the fuse turn the key on calibration takes about 30 sec then you can verify correct temperature blend door operation

[@mattyc5697]

Great video... The back screw is seemingly impossible to get to. After an hour I just took the front screw out and used a flat head to bust the white top open to reveal the circle gear (near the back) that controls the blend door. I used the screwdriver to turn the gear and viola! HEAT! Now I just have to turn the gear back to cold as summer approaches to open the AC. Simple enough.

[@gballa2730]

Plz could you tell which wheel you turned,I know you said the back one but it's several...Plz help,this is so frustrating after replacing the wrong actuator...

[@michael47lamb]

I worked on the exact problem yesterday. Passenger side air blend damper was stuck on full hot. It is July and 95F outside the car! Not fun at all. To get the second screw out (the hidden one) I used a long 1/4" ratchet extension, 1/4" univ joint and a 8mm socket (also 1/4" drive.) Nothing larger will fit in there! It was also tedious getting the socket on the screw since it is very hard to see. I also used a large flat screw driver to lift the plastic box up as far as it would go and then I had enough room to slowly unscrew the screw. Dont drop the crew as you pull it out. It will roll under the blower motor and be hard to find again. The new problem now is how to get the wiring connected on the actuator and then get it all into that tight slot again. There is NO ROOM. Either this or put the actuator in the hole first and then blindly fumble around the stupid plastic box that's in the way and somehow get the wire connector to snap in. I am thinking I need to remove the entire blower assembly first. Damn FORDS! TIP: DO NOT try this repair if the engine has been running within the past hour. There is a heater core pipe RIGHT next to where you are trying to stick your fingers and that pipe gets REALLY HOT!

[@QuiteAlright]

Thanks for the comment and good tip on heater core pipe. Yes it is right there. I connected the wiring once I installed the new actuator, I was able to squeeze my hand inside somehow to get it done. I had more problems with getting the hidden screw back inside

[@michael47lamb]

@@QuiteAlright It's nice to know it can be done. I will tackle it myself soon as I get the part.

[@MaCiEl720]

Mines not having this exact issue but couldnit be that maybe its jumping gears inside? If i have it full hot, both sides will start to get colder unless i shut off the heater and start it back up again

[@QuiteAlright]

Hmmm could be that the blend door actuator is slowly failing, sounds that way.

[@tortus15]

Doe's anyone have a video on replacing the drivers side actuators sound like more work than the Passanger side, having to remove the dash??

[@nationalwheel1]

The main gray connector up on top if you can get your hand up on top you can push the barb connector down and that will give you enough slack where after the actuator is pulled out you can bring it down and easily unplug the connector at the actuator

[@nationalwheel1]

Also the wire that comes down from the black plastic box, there is a barb connector in the metal bracket which you can push out then you can move the wire a bit over. And there is another tiny barb connector on the same brace. Anything you can move gives a bit more room. Leave it to Ford to

[@nationalwheel1]

Did you have to synchronize the motor to the door?

[@Jewett-nj5qm]

Does this apply for a 2011 Ford Taurus

[@QuiteAlright]

Yes it should

[@Boogiebagflipper]

Do you know which actuator I would need to replace if my system is not switching over from the dash vents to the forward vents? My 2015 Taurus is blowing cold AC like it’s supposed to but when I tap on the forward circulation, it does nothing and remains coming out of the dash. Worst time ever for this to happen. It’s 110 degrees daily!

[@QuiteAlright]

Most likely Mode Select Actuator. I've never replaced it on Taurus, but should be behind the instrument cluster. Before replacing or digging deeper, try disconnecting the battery for 15 min and see if that helps. Sometimes this actuators reset that way

[@Boogiebagflipper]

@@QuiteAlright sure was! I took on that tedious project yesterday. That actuator was BURIED way back behind the dash and damn near impossible to get. Fixed the issue but shit I never want to have to do that again.

[@lewisstockwell6967]

@@Boogiebagflipper this is what have to do right now do you have any good videos in doing this?

[@jasminplavi1451]

What is under black plastic hiw remove.Please explain.Thank you vor video

[@miked202069]

I think it is a channel that the instrument panel harness runs through.

[@jasminplavi1451]

@@miked202069 thank you

[@noahtate8914]

Tips on putting it back?

[@QuiteAlright]

Uhhh it's a pain to be honest. I remember doing that and it wasn't fun. Just make sure the spinning pin on the actuator is aligned properly before trying to get it in

[@tortus15]

HVAC Heater Blend Door Actuator Replaces OEM 8G1Z19E616B, 8G1Z19E616C 604-253

[@tortus15]

Copy and paste this in your browser.

[@hananiahridge6621]

Mines is a 2012 Taurus nd when I start my car heat blows on max nd can’t turn it off. How do I just turn the heat off? or where’s the fuse?

[@QuiteAlright]

Hard to answer your question without inspecting the vehicle. Could be a faulty blower motor resistor or maybe even climate controls themselves

[@hustlemadeent1601]

You might not want to do it, but I just unhook my heater core horse ("bypass") and attached another horse to the heater core line on the motor not the actual heater core itself now when I start my car I don't have heat I have cold air coming out the same way the heat was coming out before I unhook it

[@joemiller2057]

How many miles was on the car when this goes bad

[@QuiteAlright]

around 80,000 miles

[@TheSnatchbuckler]

I've done this twice on my 2011 Taurus. First time was replacing the factory actuator. 2cnd time was because I didn't get the hard-to-reach screw all the way in the first time. It is a huge pain in the ass, which is likely why mechanic's estimates can run anywhere from $300-$700 to do the job.

[@QuiteAlright]

I know it's a pain, designed like it will never have to be changed. Or designed to force people to take their vehicles to the shop

[@TheSnatchbuckler]

@@QuiteAlright I'd like to think otherwise, but I bet it's the second one. I think I ended up using like 3 swivels and an extension to reach that screw, and it was still a major pain. Anyways, great video, man- as you can see in the comments it's helped a bunch of people out, and that's awesome.

[@QuiteAlright]

@@TheSnatchbuckler Well I'm glad the video is helping people out and that you were able to replace it in the end 👍

[@Jewett-nj5qm]

Me me doesn’t blow heat on the passenger side

[@QuiteAlright]

Try removing the actuator and manually switching the setting from cold to warm. If it starts blowing warm, you need a new actuator

[@CourtneysAuntSara]

Anyone know how to remove that damn black box.

[@QuiteAlright]

You don't have to remove it, but is definitely not an easy task reaching that screw behind it

[@dstadt71]

I saw on another video that it just covers a wiring harness. They guy got it off....don't know how but didn't replace it. Without it on it's an easy fix. He just secured the wires up a little higher so they wouldn't move. I need to fix mine now and am thinking about attempting it....or is this something worth paying for....it's currently below 0 here near Chicago.

[@nivek7695]

@@dstadt71 take a saw and cut the black box off...

[@thepassivecashflow1768]

I have had 2 of these fail in my 2010... These oem parts suck...

[@QuiteAlright]

Yea they are not the best quality and often fail

[@mareks360]

It is not always OEM or replacement part fault that it does not last long. If the mechanism the actuator moves has an extra resistance due to: dust, debris, warping from heat, etc., etc., it will wear out plastic gears soon. Problem common across many Brands and Many models (e.g. C5 Chevy Corvettes): Solution ? Try to: 1) move many times the mechanism with that white knob from old failed actuator (like in the video), 2) try to lubricate (grease) the hinges of the mechanism (e.g. HVAC door) if you have access to them.

[@johnanderson1149]

I cut that plastic box with aviation pliers, serves no purpose, just careful with the wires.... I have a 2008 sable, same crap. Pain in the but. Got to wonder what the engineers are smoking, or need to smoke, to come up with this crap. Terrible design.

[@QuiteAlright]

I agree the design is absolutely terrible

[@sambrannan7550]

I was looking to see if anyone had tried that. That is my plan but I was worried about the wires