2013 Ford Taurus HVAC Mode Door Actuator Replacement

Customer complaint was “A/C only blows out the defrost and floor vents”. The scan tool showed the HVAC control module was commanding the actuator motor to move when I requested it but no movement was seen. Diagnosis-bad actuator. In this video I will go through the steps to replace the mode door actuator without removing the full instrument panel.

[@PursuitMode2011]

Exceptional video. I just tackled this job but I had absolutely no choice but to remove the steering column with the 4 bolts and electrical connectors. This advanced step gave me a huge advantage to access the 3 screws and have arm room access freely to remove that actuator and work comfortably. Horrible spot all around. Hope nobody ever deals with this repair. Started at 10:00AM and finished at 9:00 PM.

[@mareks360]

Outstanding Video ! I did the same actuator replacement on 2008 Taurus Sedan. Noticed 2 differences: 1 - there is no gap on top between air vent duct & metal frame (behind instrument cluster). I had to wedge pieces of wood to make a gap to access the top actuator screw. Thanks to your video, I knew where to access from the top ! 2nd difference is there is no metal frame to be removed behind knee bolster in 2008-9 models. Otherwise everything else very similar. Even how to remove brake pedal sensor (90 degree rotation) was Brilliant ! It created much more room ! I also unclipped the wiring harnesses "Christmas tree" pins in at least 2 locations. That made a lot of difference for 2 actuator screws access from the bottom. Having large hands makes this job very difficult in such narrow spaces. Another tip: If your screw does not stay attached to socket bit (when you have magnet), just tape the screw temporarily to the socket bit. Once screw catches the thread, tape can be removed (scraped off with a long wire bent at the end). Only the lowest screw was possible to be placed by hand for me. Swivel sockets and long extensions are a must. "Finger ratchet" was also useful (with variety length extensions) when screw was still going in easily. Final torque needed with a ratchet wrench. I did replaced in the past also 4 different actuators on Ford Taurus X (Driver Temp, Passenger Temp, Outside Air/Recirculate and this Mode one), this Mode one is the worst ! I guess cursing the Design Engineer(s) is expected. I wish they at least once tried to replace the actuator themselves in fully assembled car. Otherwise there will never be any accountability. I guess Professional Mechanics may not care, they will just charge more hours for the job at fixed rate per hour.

[@nicholasolafson9758]

Great Video, 2015 Ford Taurus here. Only difference was the brake switch was facing forward and easier to remove to gain better access to the actuator. I will say, having a 1/4 inch racket, 14 inch extension, universal to the 5/16 made a world of difference and was the only way I got all the bolts out and in. I did not put the "hardest bolt (Most forward)" back in as others suggested its not worth it. Im a big dude with big hands and got it done under 3 hours. Appreciate the video!

[@RedeemedMechanic]

Glad to help! The funny thing was that the “hardest” one wasn’t the one missing in the video. I’ve seen a few actuators get canted and break when they don’t get the third bolt on other vehicles, not sure if that will be an issue on the Tauruses. Even if I find it that way, I really dislike reassembling things with bolts missing, because I’m being paid to do it. I’ll spend a ridiculous amount of time trying to find a replacement fastener before I do that. But if someone is doing a repair on their own vehicle and wants to leave a bolt out, I figure that’s their call.

[@queenellieperez7915]

Thank you so so so so much!!!! My husband and I fixed our ac today we followed your video step by step and conquer it!!! You really saved us some money! Thank n you!!!!!!

[@RedeemedMechanic]

Glad it helped!

[@adamboydus]

Thanks for this excellent video. It gave me the confidence to do it myself. Took me just under 6 hours.

[@RedeemedMechanic]

Happy to hear!

[@jasonredepenning]

It's a beast

[@dragonrestss]

Great video followed it and made my job easy as pie thanks for the great vid

[@michael47lamb]

Hands down the best video on this i have ever seen on KZbin! Thanks. I still hate Fords though. Never again! Some decades ago Ford had a slogan "Ford has a Better Idea". That idea was to buy some other makers car. Any other is better, or at least not as much a PoS, usually. ;-)

[@RedeemedMechanic]

Thanks! I’m glad it helped. Ford definitely keeps me in business, so it’s a love/hate relationship with me and them.

[@michael47lamb]

@@RedeemedMechanic I was wondering if you could answer me a question about this car. I own the same car and there is a noise like a squeaking/ squealing door coming from the dash near the actuator you show replacing. The sound is non-stop. Is the noise part of the actuator or something about the blend door itself? Have you come across this noise yourself? If so, would oiling something stop the squealing? Thanks.

[@gimmefuel7268]

Oh man thank you SO much for making this vid. I have a 2013 Lincoln MKS, so I’m “assuming “ it will be very similar (if not the same) procedure as the Taurus.

[@southstreetbarbecue7875]

I'll be tackling this tomorrow. I'm not a mechanic, I'm just cheap. I'm expecting it to go badly so I have someone who speaks Spanish and another friend who speaks French coming over to help me with fresh curses after I exhaust my English ones.

[@RedeemedMechanic]

I’ve heard the Portuguese people have some creative ones as well. But honestly, all of you won’t fit under the dash. So maybe take turns?

[@theone3210the]

On my 2015 Ford Taurus HVAC Mode Door Actuator the 3 screws are 8mm and might I suggest using a Endoscope, comes in handy for that second top screw near the firewall that you can’t see also used Rigor Universal Joint Swivel Socket Adapter and Neiko Flexible Extension Bar and thanks for the help

[@HUEDACHIEF310]

You’re the real MVP

[@EdgarGarcia-ty6vn]

I just did one of those, thanks for the video. 👍

[@orlandogarcia2340]

Thanks for this video made it so much easier

[@RedeemedMechanic]

Glad it helped!

[@hdgunco]

Thanks for making this bud, mine just went bad!

[@RedeemedMechanic]

You’re welcome! Hope it helps.

[@hdgunco]

Just got mine out, will note mine had a third bolt in it. Used a thumb wrench, 3/4" extension, 3/4" swivel, with a 8mm head to get it off along with some choice words.

[@RedeemedMechanic]

Yes, late in the video I discovered there was supposed to be a third screw. I had to scrounge up a similar screw to properly secure it.

[@infinitewho]

For the third screw did you get to from underneath or behind the instrument cluster like the one shown in the video?

[@hdgunco]

@Botlane Fiasco yeah I had to get up underneath there with a thumb wrench and use a lot of choice words haha

[@topc5826]

Can you or anyone else reading this tell me which mode, either the Floor, Dash or Defrost Vent outlet is the position of the actuator gear key showing when it, the gear key, is aligned with the arrow on the case of the actuator motor? When the mode is stuck in AC Dash position when the servo is removed which position is the keyway in the drive gear pointing in relation to that arrow depicted on the side of the servo motor housing? Does anyone know this information?

[@eamonnmcsweeney7141]

Great video, thank you. I was able to follow the directions and everything went smoothly until I needed to install the new actuator. I can't line up the teeth/cogs of the actuator with the teeth/cogs of the mode module. The module teeth/cogs are jammed and I can't adjust manually. Anyone else have a similar issue? Thanks

[@RedeemedMechanic]

When I have that issue I usually try to index the door to match the actuator. I’ll use a tool like a stubby screwdriver to turn the door. A mirror or camera helps a lot to see. Whatever you do, don’t try to power up the actuator and turn it. You’ll break the actuator.

[@eamonnmcsweeney7141]

@@RedeemedMechanic Finally got the door teeth/cogs of the door to move and I was able to install the actuator. Thanks so much. Cold air from the dash again. Appreciate it!

[@HeatherIsrael]

Im tired of gerting screwed on my car repairs my dricersude and back due ac is still blowing stright hot air jos can i fic it on a ford Taurus x

[@dante65195ify]

Still curious on how you turn the whole thing when there’s no room to do anything

[@RedeemedMechanic]

Let me upload a short video I made for tiktok. It’s a trick I do when nothing else works.

[@RedeemedMechanic]

Check the shorts in my video feed. I just uploaded a tip video I made for that.

[@RobertDickens2002]

Would this be the same for 06 five hundred

[@13thundercracker]

Is there a chance that recalibrating the module will get it working?

[@RedeemedMechanic]

I don’t think so. Calibration just tells it when it should stop. It won’t hurt to try doing the calibration first, but I wouldn’t get my hopes up.

[@isaacparsons6486]

The 3rd screw must have been missing?

[@RedeemedMechanic]

Yes! I mentioned that at the end of the video. I ended up having to scrounge for a similar screw. Funny thing was, whoever left that screw out forgot the easiest one to get to.

[@jasonredepenning]

@@RedeemedMechanic none of them are easy unfortunately some engineers are laughing at us.

[@thomasdement7885]

What is the part no. for the part?

[@RedeemedMechanic]

Dorman 604-228

[@jasonredepenning]

How much did lady pay ? ... it was worth it lol.

[@RedeemedMechanic]

I honestly don't remember. It wasn't much. Maybe $200ish parts and labor.

[@jmnjmn69]

Beware Dorman brand not exact fit Get motocraft or waste time and be pissed