Ford F-150 & Expedition Front Stabilizer Link Replacement

[@JasonSmith-qx3zh]

This guy is good his step by step is phenomenal. A high school, Jr college would be blessed to have him !!

[@bbay1977]

Your the MAN!! It doesn't matter what issue I have with my ford. I come to this channel and I ALWAYS find a video on how to fix my issue and you have links as well. Thanks again for the help I needed so much with.

[@blwnvtwn]

This is the great thing about old automotive videos, they are almost always relevant to someone, no matter how old they are. As much as I'm capable when it comes to this stuff, the "Tips-n-Tricks" are pretty invaluable, in all your videos. -one thing, my "cheapo" ball joint tool was actually too short for the upper tie rod, I was about to simply cut the bolt shorter to get it to fit (since the part is I throw away, doesn't matter much anyway) but instead I was able to get it to break loose with a hammer and some heat from a MAP Gas torch, on the sway bar itself. Just wanted to put this out there for anyone else that may read these comments.

[@fsmendoza5]

I have watched your videos and managed to do all repairs on my 2005 f150. You are detailed en every aspect of the repair and I really appreciate all the torque specs. I had no previous experience in automotive mechanics a d you walked me step by step on rebuilding my 06 explorer 4.0 engine which has been running great for the last 9 months. Thank you very much for everything you do that not only makes us understand how everything works past the ignition key you also help us save money.

[@felipegrille8082]

2 1997's and currently own a 05 f150 and i wanted to thank you. You saved my ass many times. Couldn't be more thankful. The beers on me

[@brandongouge9922]

These videos have saved me so much time, money and frustration when I work on my 09 F150. I appreciate what you’re doing!

[@justintime8445]

You ever thought about being a professor/teacher at an automotive school? Very thorough, very knowledgeable and good at explaining to all audiences. I really enjoy your clips.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+none ofyourbusiness I have thought about it yes

[@Dudemieser]

Hes making too much money turning wrenches,lol

[@mstchiefa7892]

He pretty much already is except he is teaching the world instead of just a school. Professor FordTech

[@kanekanic3940]

He already is to about 636,000 students

[@stickytourbus]

@@FordTechMakuloco *Eight years later…* _825k grateful students._ Love ya brother. 🔧

[@J5productiins]

I just wanted to say thank you for showing me the hex. I spun the 18 mm bolt for half a hour then I watched you video and had victory. God bless you and your family.

[@robertdouglasmusic]

Once again, @fordtechmakuloco saves my but. Can't thank you enough for sharing your knowledge and helping me keep my 20 year old ford humming along. PS The tie rod end removal tool is the real hero in this.Knowing these things really shows your experience, sir. I thought I was going to beat it into submission with a hammer but that proved futile. so I ended up going to Napa and getting the tool. kind of pricey but made quick work of that top bolt and the job was done within minutes..... THANKS AGAIN!!!

[@passionsrundeeply]

I don't even have a ford truck. 😄 I just love how he teaches us step by step. I'm a woman , so... yeah 💅🏿 Thanks young man 🙌🏿🙌🏿

[@morgancaflisch-peryk1326]

Hey Brian! I want to say thank you for making these videos. With your help I have been able to do a number of jobs on my F-150 5.4 3v including replacing hubs, ball joints, pinion seal, spark plugs etc... Thanks for all your tips, and keep up the good work!

[@morgancaflisch-peryk1326]

@Cliff Mccrady well my old man owned the truck before me and he had them changed at a friends shop and they put the champion ones in. His buddy said all 8 of the factory ones broke when he took them out. I'm lucky I didnt have to deal with the factory plugs. I wish you luck!

[@the.disrespected.sports.gamers]

The pry bar on the sway bar was the trick, thanks man!

[@landlordchannel]

I just came here to say a big THANK YOU for the tips. It was the "nightmare" type of job for me for sure, everything what could wrong - went wrong, haha. This information helped a ton with replacing the front stabilizer links.

[@michaelmurray121]

Still watching after 5 years love your video’s ❤️

[@commercegil]

The video really helped us as we changed the links last week. I will say we had a bit of an issue as the last guy to put the links on used an impact wrench and likely did not torque the upper link to the sway bar. They were so tight we couldn’t get them off. So here is a tip: when you get the bottoms off just remove the sway bar and use a hydraulic press, worked great and we should have just started that way. The mechanic said in his twenty years he has never seen a link like that so tight it wouldn’t come off. All good now, thanks again.

[@shawnwilliams4254]

5 years later, thank you for this video and I do not understand people's obsession with everything be greasable vs sealed joints. I've tried both and it's unnecessary maintenance greasing them every oil change or so. Love your videos, have really helped me with my Ecoboost f150, been getting the parts for the timing chain replacement and I feel confident with the install with your videos on that subject.

[@robertmobley7678]

Just changed the sway bar links on my 2004 f150, I had the same problems as you mentioned like the shaft spinning, mainly I had trouble with getting the top stud out. I managed to get it out but it would have helped if I had watched your video then I would have found out about using a tie rod removal tool. When I did the upper and lower ball joints I watched your video to make sure that I did it right, thank you for your videos, they are a great educational tool for people to watch and fix it on their own and save hundreds of dollars in the process!

[@WatchyertopknowAhhhGrizz1964]

This is the most outstanding insructional video I've ever seen on KZbin. This man is an exceptional instructor. Not that it truly matters, but it wouldn't surprise me that he's prior military.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

USMC

[@chinaman420_]

Nice vid! Just did my 2003 expedition today after watching the video a few times, borrowed a tie rod end puller from autozone for under $40 (you get it all back once its returned) and definitely glad I did because it's a must to knock it loose. Thanx a lot.

[@jb1995]

I can’t tell you enough how thankful I am I found your KZbin page. I’ve done so much work and saved so much money. Because of your step-by-step videos when I’m working on my 07 Ford F-150 5.4 FX4. PS I just bought a t-shirt

[@tannersmith2774]

I owe you numerous beers! Started out watching your 4 pt vid on replacing timing on 5.4, had to watch oil pan drop vid, stripped stab link, had to watch stab replacement, .....next up will be exhaust manifold replacement, broken stud removal, and then figure why AC quit....you’ll get my....I mean, I’ll get my truck working like new again! Haha

[@cableguy43309]

Thanks for the video, I just did mine today on an 04, wasn't as easy to get them off and new ones on. I have a heavy duty strut that also levels truck 2 inches, had to drop that to get stab bar in and out.

[@jasonstoker4861]

This is by far the best Ford mechanic channels ever. I used your video to diagnose and change out my front driver side hub and bearing on my 2010 Expedition. My only problem is that I'm still getting the same road noise sound I was hearing before the change. Any ideas why I'm still hearing the noise? Thanks.

[@rejmonwilson]

I did mine today in my anyway to make your life easy remove the whole stabilizer bar assembled and remove the stabilizer link bottom bolts, I remove the whole assembly and the removal of the stabilizer bolts was easy to remove. Thanks for the video, help me attack this job my self save me a lot of money.🤙🏾👍🏾👏🏾🇯🇲🇨🇦✌️🏾.

[@js891ster]

Great vid - thanks! After following your guidance, even if I did have cheap'ees that needed replacement in 6 months this procedure was not too bad at all- frankly, about as painful as changing my oil. Im sooo thankful it worked out as easy as it did for me- not my usual experience and expectations. I did'nt even have to take off my tires,,, wh'oh- safer and awesome! I jacked my truck where your jack stand is in the vid to relieve the tension on the suspension and link and I was able to get them out with just minimal persuasion. You are a very reliable source!

[@randybrooks7660]

you do the absolute best videos if it weren't for you I may have much Chevy LOL thanks for a good job appreciate you

[@jeffreykreft5442]

Hi Brian, love my Milwaukee 18 fuel impact, only drawback is it is so dam hard to handle with one hand just from it being so heavy, but still wish I had one 30 years ago. On my 2005 expedition the lower control arm completely encloses the nut and stud. I found the best way is to instead of trying to get the lower nut off, I set my impact to forward and tighten the nut till it snapps off. Have not had any problems with damaging the lower control arm, and is a hell of a lot easier than trying to zip these off. Great videos as always. Thank you, learned allot from watching your channel.

[@brandonsilva9311]

Brother, thanks for the tips. I’ve done these on an 07 explorer and 98 F150that were straight. But my truck had the angled ones. Got all the way to getting the top out but it would not come out. Two taps with my little sledge and they popped right out. Thanks again!!!

[@nvwlsnvwls2785]

great video, this will be helpful for years to come

[@adrianwysocki1086]

Hi All, in my 2008 they were so rusted that they had to be cut out with the grinder there was no other way to take them out. Im glad that I went to the mechanic. The total job of changing the front 2 Wheel Bearings, 2 actuators and 2 Tie Rod Ends, 2 Sway Bars, and 2 lower ball joints took literally 8 hours at the mechanic shop and cost 700 plus a small tip and tax. There was no way I would be able to do it my self. In my car, everything was so rusted that the torch had to be used everywhere

[@jasonontherez6668]

Thank....You!!! I have always found what I needed from you for my Fords

[@tinkerscorner54]

On a 2006 Lincoln Navigator, because ot the way the A-Frame is made, the lower bolt is in a cup that is recessed deeper than the bolt is long. It ended up being a genuine Royal PITA. The 18mm nut had come out about 1/4" but wouldn't go any further. I couldn't get a hold of the 10 mm hex end with the 18mm socket on, and couldn't get a wrench on the nut due to the bolt being recessed into the A-Frame. The Final solution was inserting a 6" long, 1/4" extension through the center hole a 3/4" Spark Plug Socket, with a 1/4" 10mm socket. With the Spark Plug Socket, I was able to hold the nut (not the same size as the nut but close enough) with a 7/8" open end wrench on the Lands and turn the 10 mm hex end to get the nut out. Where there's a will, there's a way, even if it's a bit unorthodox. Thanks for the video! Later

[@MrRayDupree]

Thanks for the informative video! That was exactly the problem with my truck, and when I had taken it off I found that whoever had the vehicle before I bought it Jimmy rigged it! The bar had broken from both the top and bottom and they tack welded both ends together 😕

[@CaptRABriggsJr]

Excellent video: audio and visuals. Will compliment my efforts as a Scouting MERIT BADGE Counselor for Automotive Maintenance and to educate my children and Home School students. Appreciate your attention to details with emphasises on cleaning and using the right tool to accomplish the task. Aye! Capt Rick in Central Texas. Acadahm Briggs de Killeen (ABdK).

[@leonardgilbreath9004]

Your repair videos are very helpful you should be teaching an automotive repair class again great information about this 👍

[@alb12345672]

Sometimes a sawzall works best for those. Maybe it depends on the application. I did one on the rear of a continental and the nut binded up. Hex was in very bad shape. Took out Mr. Sazwall with a diablo demolition blade. The aftermarket ones come with flats. The OEM ones were actually a type of plastic, not such a great idea.

[@Dirtyharry70585]

+alb12345672 ....I've used a 4" cut off grinder, super fast

[@afjrotc20041]

I used a mini torch, worked wonders. Everything always looks easy on video.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+afjrotc20041 Wow never seen one stuck that bad.

[@afjrotc20041]

+FordTechMakuloco yep. Good ol Navigator. What's the model of that Milwaukee impact?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+afjrotc20041 It's their latest 1/2" monster-amzn.to/1pxOPQ3

[@n310ea]

On my '05 Grand Marquis, you have to take the brake cal and rotor off to get to the upper part of the sway bar link because it is attached to the steering knuckle.

[@ghostinthetreeline]

Great video. Thank you for providing such detail to include the torque specs.

[@etripp111]

I have a 2005 Expy Eddie Bauer. For some reason my stabilizer bar link nut is about 1" inside a well on the a-frame. The nut just spins as you mentioned. However the offset wrenches I have don't reach. Is that a special wrench for this application or did you 'modify' that one. Thanks again. You rock!

[@Wherep]

Hi Brian, thanks for putting out some of those helpful videos that you provided they really help me a lot. But I got a little issue with my 2007 Ford Expedition Eddie standard size 2wd my abs light came on and it’s my left abs speed sensor with code C1155. Now the reason for that I wanted to replace the old one and the wire some how got melted but that one was working before I had replaced it with a new ford abs sensor that I got from the ford dealership. After installing the new abs sensor my abs light comes on and I tried to reset it a few times and the abs light just flickers like once or twice. I really hope it’s not a defective and wire. I would really appreciate it thanks.

[@togodbetheglory9725]

I have the same annoying problem...on Ford 2004..I changed everything except this part..thank thank you for the video

[@albertlabrada7213]

Great tips.. Hamerred that top stud off. Like new. Front noise gone.

[@HP-hm3pn]

I used your reversal technique to replace the links on my daugter's 2006 Five Hundred and it was so decayed it actually broke. I had to cut the bolt off from the other side. Rust sucks!

[@prathenallen6378]

I have a 2004 f150 4x4 and I guess with the oems from way back when and they had a allen wrench hole for the bottom nut instead of the hex head. Pain in the ass

[@kmibuilding906]

I had the clunk noise on my 2004 so I replaced the lower ball joints because I replaced everything else 30,000 miles ago. clunked noise still there on drivers side, time to replace the moog stab links with only 30,000 mile.

[@Onel4me]

so that is the clank I hear from the driver side of my 06 expedition when I pull out of my driveway? I checked ball joints, shocks, and boots, and couldn't find anything out of the ordinary thanks

[@jdtractorman7445]

How do you like your cordless impact? I'm thinking about getting the Dewalt model comparable to your Milwaukee. The torque specs for both are very close.

[@fredbach6039]

You are a great complement to other videos on this subject. I like your presentation and the way you clean off your parts before you reuse them. Your comments on Ford original parts being better than aftermarket was very useful. Which Lock tight are you using?

[@mick5740]

My 06 blows threw links Does a bad link or links cause pulling to one side of other

[@Jacobb97_937]

You definitely helped me out much love king 👑

[@anthonycassata5152]

Another awesome video.

[@richardlewis7471]

Love this video. Watch all the time.

[@ozzstars_cars]

fairly simple job that can make a big difference in handling. good vid

[@chrisgraham2904]

When your discussing the F-150 and the Expedition, you might include the Lincoln Navigator, which is the same vehicle under the skin. Navigator owners would be able to find your videos in a search.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Yup I would think most know a town car is a vic and a nav is an exedition and a aviator is an explorer etc.

[@chrisgraham2904]

@@FordTechMakuloco I'm sure any Lincoln owner is well aware of their Ford equivalent. Just means they have to search for Ford solutions to problems or upgrades, because nothing will come up under their Lincoln brand. You certainly not alone by not mentioning Lincoln. lol

[@Simonphoenix1300]

Use the jack on the top you releave alittle pressure and it slides right out

[@spidermangaming8769]

Great video 👍🏻Just completed this job today

[@chrisabcdefg8171]

For F150 and Expeditions with welded steel lower controls arms, plan on buying new lower control arms and links since they are almost impossible to remove. The 18mm nut is buried up in the control arm...

[@johnnyyankee8604]

The holes in my truck's sway bar ends are facing down not sideways like that one is. I probably going to have to remove the lower balll joints and strut nut to mount new ones!

[@fortunatedad7695]

Do you think replacing these would stiffening the steering? I have the air suspension and the steering feels a little loose when going over bigger bumps.

[@michaelsa892]

Have you ever done Ford Expedition body bushings/mounts

[@FordTechMakuloco]

no

[@danielpaulson3631]

This is a great video... and I think this is one that I'll take to the pros.

[@thesillyquestions]

The economy is so trash. You've seriously saved my family from being bankrupt. ty

[@edwardhealy7285]

Top one on my truck was stuck....used heat around threads and popped out with hammer....careful not to burn brake line and abs wire

[@sunburninaz]

I have a 2004 Expedition 2WD and it has a different LCA than in this video. I do not have access to get anything other than a deep socket on the sway bar end link nut. There is no way to have a wrench of any type on both the nut and the end link at the same time. Do you have any suggestions?

[@chinaman420_]

I used vice grips for the top portion to keep it from spinning, did the trick for me.

[@aaron123112]

Can’t thank you enough good sir.

[@williamchristian53]

You are that guy I would trust to touch my F-150. Blood, sweat, and Gears!

[@cliftonwilliams35]

Can you please get a hold of 07 Lincoln Navigator and load some videos. There are no videos of 07 - 15 Lincoln Navigator videos

[@richardwolske2015]

What’s your view of Detroit axle parts ? Love your video’s 👍

[@FordTechMakuloco]

I never touch them

[@richardwolske2015]

@@FordTechMakuloco thank you for the heads up .

[@dylanbeauregard5078]

What brand of wrenches are these offsets? Pittsburgh doesnt seem to fit on the 03 4x4. Thank you

[@imadsyrian]

I learned a lot by u man 😃 thanks alot 👌🏻 🙏 💯

[@APOOLE86]

The sway bar end links you recommend are “no longer available”

[@amaturevlogghour5568]

You saying Moog go out sooner than motorcraft? I need to get some but do want quality ones. isn't moog like "the best" per say? Amazon is out of the MEF195. but i found some MEF335 . are those better than the moog k80279?

[@samled9768]

Do you have any suggestions if the stud free spins? I cant cut it off because of the location on the control arm.

[@jondog9]

How do you know you didn't over torque both nuts with the air gun? You're torque wrench clicked immediately. I didn't see it move at all before the click...

[@randyragon]

Hi Brian. You mentioned the Escape rear wiper. Mine (2002) has been corroded and seized up for years with no real tension against the window anymore. I've been afraid of getting too forceful on it and breaking the glass. Do you cut off the top of the arm surface to get the puller to then push against the shaft? I'm concerned with doing that and going too far and damaging the shaft nub. No ones done any type of video for it that I can find. I'd gotten advice to use wood wedges, hitting them against each other until they pushed the arm off, but breaking the window from the pressure seemed like too great a possibility.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Randy Ragon Once the nut is off the puller pushes off the center shaft only. What I can tell you is do it while the glass is cool.

[@randyragon]

+FordTechMakuloco There is no nut, that is the problem. It has a back clip and a fully encased arm. I broke off the clip to be sure it was no hindrance. The aluminum corrosion from the road salt has fused it in place. I'm going to try drilling small depths with increasingly larger diameter drill bits to try and expose the nub center to have something to push against for the puller without damaging the nub and hopefully not shattering the safety glass. I'll update if that works or not. Thanks for replying.

[@alanwatts8117]

I remove mine with a torch .. after burn all the rust the bolt come out super easy ..basically removed with my fingers

[@jasonhughes63]

I just spent all day waiting on parts and replacing a lower ball joint and a strut...only to eventually find the stab link on the opposite side is jumping up and down and causing the banging noises. Im angry and tired. But now i can fix it tomorrow and know what to do.

[@401k_scatpack4]

Have question about setting caster and camber on my 2011 crown vic (not police interceptor). Shop and tech say not adjustable. My "Ford" shop Manuel shows its possible. Whats your input and is there a video of how to. Thank You. Sorry if asking you this in wrong video/place

[@luisaguilar3959]

Cool, but some times they have a Grease fitting. And you’re not able to just pop it out you have to take out the CV axle

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Nope they come right out.

[@mekelly999]

Can the car be driven right away or do you need to let the blue loctite cure overnight?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Mike Kelly It can be driven right away.

[@mekelly999]

+FordTechMakuloco Thanks! Love your video's. I've got a 1994 Explorer and 1999 Expedition. Really enjoy working on them and your video's are an awesome help!!!

[@hatteraslabuf]

2004 F150 XL RWD Ford Links - No Longer Available

[@richardmartin1908]

On my 05 Lariat, the top of the sway bar does not attach at a 90 degree angle, it is straight from top to bottom. Is there any other difficulty for doing it that way?

[@906lane]

Thank you I just did this last week on my 2010 Ford Expedition Limited with 164,000 miles. I do have another question. I have replaced the front and rear struts with KYB GR2, new MOOG upper control arms Left and right, new rotors and pads on all 4 corners, new tires and road forced balanced, 4 wheel alignment, but I have a very rough ride now on street driving or freeway. The steering wheel vibrates over 40 mph and when on rough roads like feeling very groove on the ground, its like driving a tank and my wife is going crazy since it is her car. I have had the truck checked and dealer said its all fine maybe bad tires. I have had 3 different brands in the last 4 months and it still drives the same. only other thing I can think of is bad lower ball joints or tie rod links. It did not have these problems until i changed out the suspension parts. Any help would be appreciated.

[@mrdelaware1]

Did you have any luck resolving your issues? I'm also struggling with my wife's 2011 Expedition. Already replaced the strut assemblies front and rear. That helped a lot with standard humps and dips in the roads. But, it still wobbles a bit when turning or hitting bumps or pulling in or out of the driveway. I am going to replace the stabilizer link bars and the sway bar bushings tomorrow. I'm hoping that will help. Next will most likely be the ball joints and tie rods if this doesn't fix it.

[@906lane]

@@mrdelaware1No unfortunately. The truck now has 216,000 miles. I just replaced outer tie rod end link both sides, new upper control arms both side, new lower control arms both side, I replaced all 4 struts again with kyb for warranty from rockauto, sway bar bushing front and rear, sway bar links both sides, replaced the transmission mount, replaced rear axle mount, new carbon ceramic pads and rotors all 4 corners from power stop, 4 new Michelin LTX M/S2, did the slip yoke, rear differential fluid change, transmission fluid drain and fill, new spark plugs. I now have a small clunking sound if you turn left or right over bumps or if I'm pulling up hill it will clunk, If the truck is on any incline and you shift from park to drive I get a loud clunk then it jumps into gear, if you going 50 mph and start to slow down it will clunk as the transmission is gearing down, timing chain rattle on cold starts I use 5w-30 full synthetic mobile 1 every 5,000 miles. I live in Southern California not that cold, if you driving over 45 mph the steering wheel shakes back and forth up to 80 mph. I have lifetime alignment with Firestone and they don't know why it shakes, I also had the dealership redo my balance and alignment and they can't figure that out either and side everything is fine. I have taken my truck to 3 local dealers and they tell me the motor mounts are fine, they can't find out what the clunk is under the hood. Other than that the truck is very reliable and I still get 20 mpg at 70 mph on freeway for 2010 Ford Expedition. Limited. I really like my truck it has been good to me and my family since I got it in 2013 from with alittle over 60,000 miles. I wish I could find someone local that is good at diagnosis on Ford truck. If I driver over ruff pavement it fills like the truck is loose in the body and steering wheel. I was wondering if I need to change the body mounts next and the motor mounts. I checked the steering rack and nothing is loose. I can't figure it out. I just bought another new home and plan to buy a new truck in 2023. This way I can save up and buy from a dealer only auction since I just got my California Dealer License.

[@mrdelaware1]

@@906lane, wow... that doesn't exactly install confidence in me for this 😞 I'm going to get started on the stabilizer links and sway bar bushings in a few minutes. I just did the strut assemblies (also KYB) a week or so ago. I'm really hopeful this helps, but am resigned to the fact I may wind up buying more parts next week.

[@906lane]

@@mrdelaware1 Sorry I forgot I also replaced the steering column lower intermediate shaft. All 4 wheel hubs. My truck is 2wd.

[@Kennybeachum]

You were 100% right only buy Ford I bought duralast and upon installing them the boot split. Garbage

[@margaretmcginnis4301]

Can you please help me? My 2013 Ford F-150 xlt 4x4 5.0 has a severe wobble at 62-70 mph. The hole body feels like it’s shaking and steering wheel shakes real bad. I’ve asked several so called mechanics with no help. It has 219k miles and I just put new rims and tires with rough country stuts and shocks and didn’t help at all. Any idea? God bless

[@Daniel_5.4]

What hose brand is that I’m looking for an air hose 🥲

[@bthompson1767]

I have a lifted 2010 ford expedition will after market upper control arms ford 2010 ford f150 fit the expedition if not what are the differences please

[@robinduncan9520]

Why don't you do a video on catch cans for f150 ego boost and what's the best catch can to buy

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Robin Duncan I am currently working on this. You want to get the monster can for sure-amzn.to/1S6oobf

[@BryanKephart]

I know my 2006 F-150 the sway end went horizontally where it attaches to the end link versus vertically like this truck, made for a huge pain to replace had to jack up the sway bar itself to squeeze enough room, not the safest thing either

[@FordTechMakuloco]

+Bryan Kephart Yeah late build 2005 models forward went to the design you have.

[@JerryRogich]

Thanks - on my 3rd set of links on '03 Expy..

[@johnjones4096]

since I can't find a single video on replacing the front axle support bushings like the one found on the axle tube, I've decided I'm making a video myself tomorrow

[@Capt.Morgan]

So I have a 2002 f150 7700 and mine don’t look like that? They are just a bolt with bushings

[@Tate_Cunningham]

Man that upper stud won’t come out of the sway bar hole. I’ve tried prying, hammering, sweet talking, and wd-40 and it still won’t. I’m considering putting the torch to it but I’m not sure yet. What do I do??

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Use a tie rod end puller or ball joint puller like did otherwise they really don't come out.

[@Tate_Cunningham]

Ok thanks. Did it come out easily with the ball joint remover for you?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

It will pop hard but yes quick.

[@dougchaffin2608]

I heated them poured water over there stud. Popped right out with a 4 lb hammer.

[@davidblaze1652]

Which brand is that ball joint remover?

[@rickychappell2507]

What do I do if my link keeps spinning when trying to put on the new one?

[@kendrickray7827]

How does that same Milwaukee impact wrench you use cost? I see you use it in just about every video that I watch

[@benson2873]

Can’t get that bottom bolt out at all. Tried an 18: fail. Tried the wrench and 8mm method with an extra set of hands… fail. Talk about living in the rust belt. Think I’m just gonna cut the damn thing off. Gotta replace it anyway.

[@rbbtmackdaddy]

I just happen to notice that truck has 2wd front strut assembly. im surprised that it isnt rubbing the axle shaft.

[@robertzarzycki7003]

Would you have the torque specs for the 2014 F150?

[@deruin78]

I have a 2009 Expedition. Will that or the ball joint make the vehicle vibrate? I put new rims and tires and I'm still getting the vibration going over 60 MRP. Any idea why this is happening?