Poor Automotive A/C Cooling: Do You Have a Low Refrigerant Charge Level?

In this video we go over how to recognize a low charge level in your vehicles A/C system.
Basic R-134A Manifold Gauge Set:
amzn.to/32JTGCc
My Company BSG Automotive offers Auto Repair services in the greater Chicagoland area.
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Disclaimer:
The information, demonstration and any content contained in this video is for informational purposes only. The user and BSG Automotive (hereinafter “FordTechMakuloco”) makes no warranty, express or implied, regarding the effectiveness or safety of the contents of this video. In no way should the contents of the video, including the tools used, be repeated or tried by anyone. Viewers should only seek the help of a trained professional located at a licensed auto repair shop for any fix, modification, alteration, or any change to their vehicle. FordTechMakuloco shall not be liable for any injury, damage, or loss to any person or property that may result from use of the tools, equipment, or any content contained in this video. In addition, there is no way to guarantee that the video is not altered or modified or is not in the final form submitted by FordTechMakuloco and therefore, FordTechMakuloco does not warrant that the video is unaltered or not modified. The links on this video to products are for informational purposes only and in no way are an endorsement of the safety or effectiveness of the particular product. Viewers understand that anything contained in this video or linked to or from this video is the sole responsibility of the viewer and in no way provides an express or implied warranty as to the safety or effectiveness of any linked tool, product, or video. Therefore, viewer agrees to release, waive, and discharge FordTechMakuloco or anyone affiliated with FordTechMakuloco, from any and all liability, claims, demands, actions, and causes of action whatsoever arising out of or related to any loss, damage, or injury, including death, that may be sustained by the viewer, or to any property belonging to viewer, regardless of whether the loss is linked to the use of the contents of this video, or otherwise and regardless of whether such liability arises in tort, contract, strict liability, or otherwise, to the fullest extent allowed by law.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Basic R-134A Manifold Gauge Set: amzn.to/32JTGCc

[@richieschmidt6225]

FordTechMakuloco is this set any good? I was thinking of getting yellow jacket brand in the future but I’d like a cheap set too.

[@shimes424]

Nice! I bought a set at a garage sale and it bent my low side valve 😒 Still using the AutoStoned manifold and vacuum. Free to rent with a $300 deposit. I'll have to get that set and a vacuum, maybe next year. I diagnosed a bad low-side switch with a multimeter...I found out that the switch contacts are normally closed when the compressor should be running. After making sure I had freon in the system, I jumped the terminals together, system ran great, recovered the freon, replaced the switch and valve, pulled a vacuum, and filled it up. Fixed for -$30- $40 after freon (that damn needle valve)

[@drome010381]

Can you tell me if tid codes for mode 6 are publicly posted or where I can get them for 99 expedition 5.4. Got what I believe to be a misfire but it is faint and only felt in drivability posing as a transmission slip. I have a few tid codes that i need to onow what they hex 41 for example.

[@weldingjunkie]

drome010381 code 6 codes?

[@drome010381]

@@weldingjunkie yeah I will probably murder the proper explanation but I believe it is a type of diagnosis protocol and not all scanners/software are capable of determining what the manufacturer meant by a certain test #. For example, I was looking for $21 which is hexadecimal 21 with ford I found it is a vacuum pressure code. I was able to reach out to Forscan and they pointed me to a Ford website that has their descriptions.

[@Paul1958R]

Brian, Great video! Both my 2002 and 2005 Focus have FOT systems so this video was very explanatory. I completely re did the 2002s AC system last summer (new compressor, condenser, dryer, and orifice tube). All new o-rings as well. I get 40F outlet air at 97F ambient. Got to do the same to the 2005 soon. Thanks! God bless Paul

[@timothycc711]

Brain I wanted to thank you again for all your awesome videos. I've used your videos to do work on my f150. You go into such detail and show us everything we need to know to do it ourselves. Again thank you.

[@waldorfslocalceleb]

I have been doing a/c work for about 10 years on heavy equipment and automotive.. you are spot on! 👍👍

[@mike325ci]

Perfect! I searched all over and couldn't find my answer, and remembered I subscribed to your channel and searched your videos and found the exact same symptom I'm having with a 2003 Navigator that I recently bought. The low pressure side goes from 10 to 55 psi and back repeatedly and I hear the compressor clicking on and off. Although I'd like to figure out why it's low on refrigerant (leak or failing part somewhere?), I'll assume for now that the car is 20 years old and maybe has never had an A/C service, so I'll recover/vacuum/refill the system. Thank you so much, so glad I remembered you! A must have channel for any Ford/Lincoln/Mercury owner/DIYer!

[@ad7514]

Hi Brain ! First and foremost, I want to thank you for all your time and effort to make these videos. Its alot of work. You have saved my A$$ many times over the years with my Ford vehicles. I'm currently chasing a problem with my 2011 Taurus SHO A/C system. My wife drives this car everyday and tells me that at idle the A/C temp in the car starts to blow noticeably less colder air...not hot but warmer air. So, I charged the system first with PAG 46 and then followed with the R134-A. Initially the clutch wasn't coming on even though I turned the A/C turned on in the cabin to MAX with full speed on the blower fan. Within a few minutes,6-8min, the clutch switched on...as did the engine fan... At this point the 134 was able to be sucked into the low side....but only for about 1 minute, because the comp clutch switched off again. Again, a few 6-8 min later the clutched kicked on again and I was able to get the entire can of 134 into the system and the clutch stayed engaged from that point on until I turned off the car. When I went in the car to turn if off, it was super cold inside. Just to note, the gauge on the can of 134 stated about 40lbs was the pressure by the time the can was empty. Figured I was good to go. Although, the next morning, the system was acting like I never did anything to it. Acted like it did before I did the work. I drove it awhile and I could tell when the compressor switched on because the air got a bit cooler, but seconds later the air got much warmer. It was like the comp was switching off and on....like in this video. Do I have a bad low pressure switch or did all the 134 leak out of a bad seal. I am going to get a good manifold gauge set so I can get a better handle on whats happening in the system real time. How can I tell if its the switch(high or low) or a leak ? If the comp stays on it gets cold. Clearly, my limited discovery is that for some reason the comp shuts off for a while(minutes) and then switches back on again(for only a few minutes) Not sure where to go. I kinda think its the low side switch. is the low side switch down low near the comp. On this 2100 SHO I do I work on this comp area from under the car ?

[@j.d.martinez153]

Thanks for adding the symptoms for the txv “expansion valve” system and some break down how how those compressor works. Good stuff

[@luisbenitez3428]

Mr. you have the best video out there explaining the AC system on a car , straight-to-the-point very well explain thanks a lot

[@mikecont9742]

Really like ac videos. You make the best step by step videos. Thanks for taking the time.

[@mikechiodetti6737]

Nice Work! This is the weather for A/C problems! A lot of people don't know that the A/C system comes on in the winter during defrost, so if the struggled through the summer, definitely get it fixed in the fall!

[@summerforever6736]

If you turn it on I turn it off!!

[@billyyoder8171]

Thank you Brian. Good job. Have a blessed and safe week.

[@chadvanderpool6501]

This man is a damn good mechanic and super smart. His videos are always helpful

[@baitse7676]

My 2005 F150 has a fixed orifice tube as well. Btw, the dryer and tubes going into the firewall were a bear to reinstall after doing the valve cover seals. Thanks for all the great videos!

[@TheRnwood]

As always another great video! Thank you!

[@jimyep9971]

Nice. As a DIYer learned rhis with allot of homework and a passion for fixing cars. great video.

[@donaldt7764]

Thanks for explaining with detail.

[@AlazarAnbesaw]

Oh wow! I never about knew/noticed the crimp on the lines. Love your videos! 👏👏👏

[@oldbloke100]

Middle of winter here in Australia, love your channel

[@wobblysauce]

I use mine more now than in summer.

[@Resistolitin]

Great video, as always!! Thank you.

[@user-ec5oe7qy4v]

Thanks for the great video! I'm looking forward to the rest of this video series.

[@johnbaker1039]

Just the correct information I was looking for. My 2018 F-150 output temp is only about 50 degrees and it takes a good 15 minutes to get there. Thanks!

[@pedrogadea4926]

another great video, knowledgeable and clear, great help!

[@hoosiered471]

Very informative video! Thanks!!

[@beastlyendeavour9184]

Good refresher. Been awhile since I've done this.

[@Theferg1]

Thank you bro!! I have learned SO Much from you and your channel!! 👍💯

[@marksmith8877]

You do awesome videos and I do one heck of a talented mechanic thanks for all the videos appreciate it

[@Johnny53kgb-nsa]

I enjoy watching your video's. Thanks

[@uponthemesa]

Thanks for the video. You're the best ford tech i know.

[@rclarke2456]

You helped me thank you so much my Freightliner cascadia big rigs is running cool now

[@pto200]

Good information, well presented. Thanks for your videos.

[@josephs9268]

Thanks again for another informative video. Sometimes I already know how to do half these thing but just like watching the videos any way 😂 am I the only one

[@AntonioClaudioMichael]

Great informative video Ford tech

[@williamserver4332]

Very helpful . I do HVAC but never messed with my cars AC. Now I have an idea of how to charge it

[@xiao-nanli3016]

Very nicely explained, good job!

[@georgeolt654]

As always, very educative!

[@bruno8241]

Great informative video!👍👍👍

[@stevewilliams6354]

Great job very helpful you made me smarter thank you

[@SteveStoltz]

Great Video, Looking forward to seeing more.

[@emmanuelgregoriocasiano6933]

So Educational, I can relate that because that is what I have experienced it too in one of my work last week. When you charge or add the refregerant at low side, I experience reverse effect, when charging, giving higher RPM, the low side gauge pointer rise instead of going down to indicate suction of the refrigerant, and also notice that high side gauge pointer goes down.

[@theANGRIERone]

Your videos have helped me out with my Nissan Armada, so thank you. Also, we're in the same freakin' town. Small world!!

[@jrobertfreeman990]

Thanks my friend. This help me get cold air but my 01 town car only blows cold now. Hot air is now the problem, it's not blowing out from the dash vents only the floor and rear and not very hot. If you can give help I'd appreciate it. Keep up the good work Sir. Thanks for everything, John

[@gopaulsalick507]

Liking the videos Brian, keep the videos coming

[@jasonkolacinski6065]

Thank you, very helpful!!

[@johncasor9698]

Another Great Video... Thx...

[@genarogomez9535]

Great video, thanks! I have exactly what you described with my 2005 f150. What are your thoughts on these DIY air coolant cans you can buy almost anywhere?

[@theintake8961]

Great video thanks👍

[@melaniememe7519]

Hello and thank you for this video very informative and helpful :-)

[@marv.mon.9845]

Very informative as always! One of my best subs for sure. Have a quick question. I own a 2006 Mercury Milan 3.0L. What type of system would that have?

[@mtucker3401]

Most likely a 134a system.

[@OZD-mb2bs]

Good video. My 04 fl50 is doing that exactly guess it’s time to get recharged.

[@nickayivor8432]

KNOWLEDGEABLE FordTechMakuloco Brilliant video tutorial great thank you God bless you and all your family around you FordTechMakuloco From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧

[@michaelburtin3457]

Great video I was told to replace my compressor and that’s it I haven’t put Freon in there since I bought it did the symptoms makes it feel like a rough idle

[@laiky71]

It took me waaaay to long to realize what the channel name actually meant. Spot on! I like driving Fords, i hate fixing them.

[@alphaomega8373]

Ford Tech Make you crazy

[@gregoryvenable3944]

62

[@anthonyjcarolan3161]

Good 👍 to know about the AC work I love ❤️ your video 📷 the are amazing job I can't wait for the next video 📷 #ACWork

[@josephmalinowski6817]

I have a 2004 Dodge Ram 1500 5.7 V8 Hemi and I just replaced my AC compressor the dryer and a bunch of the rubber O-rings and I tried to recharge the system myself obviously I didn't wrong and that's the problem I'm having with mine the compressor kicks on and off so I'm going to bring it to a professional to have the system vacuum rated and charge properly because I have the gauges also and they were both sitting on the low side thank you for the video it helped a lot

[@peterstone4547]

Big thanks to all your fantastic educational videos. I have an erractic reading on my high pressure guage. Could that mean the refrigerant control valve needs replacing on the compressor. I have garages here ( in the Philippines) wanting to just replace the whole compressor.

[@mikebenson8698]

This is a great series of videos ! This one in paticular got me going on the AC system in my 2006 F150. It was text book low on coolent. I charged it up based on your instructions, cabin air dropped down to 40 F I thought I was set. took it for a ride, 5 minutes down the road the air was back to ambient Temperture. What do think is my next step in troubleshooting? Thanks for your help Mike

[@andydulosa8571]

Awesome! My 2004 150 is leaking oil on the high side tubbing and hose connection and need to replace the ac manifold. Was really hoping you have the tutorial video on how to remove and install new ac manifold on 2004 5.4l f150

[@clutch5sp989]

I bought an F150 with many-many probs JUST so I could follow Brian and fix er up. Mechanically she's perfect. The body is severely faded and screams I AIN'T GOT NO INSURANCE look about er. THANKS BRIAN

[@junrodriguez8639]

Thank you 4the info

[@johnknox5692]

thks for the info need that

[@Eslamizar]

God bless you sir.

[@jakewrxdrift]

Pretty good video. I will stress that the only way to know how much is in the system is to evacuate it with an a/c(like you did), static pressure does not indicate anything other then something is in the a/c system.

[@cbmech2563]

Thank God, my 97 f250 OBS the evaporator is completely in the engine bay. The evaporator took a about an hour to change.

[@__WJK__]

Great vids... how I wish you were also a Dodge Tech too!!

[@doubleeranch169]

Great videos, new subscriber here. Basic AC question here... AC’s are a closed system? So if you have low pressure there must be a leak somewhere? And if you repair anything on an ac system you need to pull a vacuum since the “closed” system was opened? Thanks! Love the videos

[@matthewmonson4340]

Brilliant!

[@dannyl2598]

Thank you.

[@user-el9iv2mc9f]

Very good 👍👍

[@justinw4277]

Thank you for breaking it down and for all the information. Do you by chance know if the compressor has a scroll valve on 2005 Ford Explorer 4.6L? My low side static pressures are around 55 and my high side pressures are at 135. The dynamic ranges are around 28 for low and 240.

[@willefixit]

explained well ,yester day had45l265h it was 100 out .fot 78 caddy 134a conv.

[@josephwhite6033]

New subscriber after a few videos. You seem pretty knowledgeable about fords. Here’s one for you man. I have a 2013 f150. 5.0. When my ac is on my fans sound like a jet engine. I’ve had it at the dealership, other guys have looked at it. Nobody can figure it out. One shop finally settled on the ac drier and expansion valve. But what I’ve read it’s a sensor. Any thoughts?? A computer strictly for fords was hooked to it while it was roaring loud and nothing was found. Thanks man! And enjoy the video!

[@wildbill23c]

The radiator cooling fan should run at full speed when your AC is on, that's completely normal. The condenser is in front of your radiator, in order for your AC to work you have to have very good air flow through that condenser/radiator, thus your radiator fan will be forced to run at much higher speeds than when you are not using the AC. If your radiator fan is mechanically operated via the old style fan clutch and driven off the engine, same thing happens, the excess heat causes the clutch to engage forcing the fan to spin at a much higher rate of speed.

[@ebrahimfix8539]

Hello thank you so much my brother... Can you show me how to change grand marquis 2010 evaporator temperature sensor??

[@scotts4437]

Great video thank you! My 04 F250 6.8 V10 AC compressor is short cycling. I ordered a set of gauges and vacuum pump. When I recharge system should I add pag oil or does the r134a have it already ? The sticker says 2lb 10oz r134a and 9oz pag oil. Any help would be great thank you

[@tonycruz.5516]

Yama... hama...its raining cats and dogs out there 🤣😅😂 thanks for the fast, and informative troubleshoot on this.

[@billyr9840]

Nice!

[@dennisissenhuth3325]

Brian, I would really like to have your opinion on whether the 3.7L engine in the Raptor is reliable and relatively trouble free. I value your opinion very much. Thanks.

[@RobertKohut]

Nice!!

[@rrmech11]

Stay Cool Brian I got my MACS certification two days ago. Can't wait Till you make some 1234yf videos 👍👍

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Eventually, Ford has been slow to adopt 1234yf. I just had a 2018 Explorer still R-134A.

[@rrmech11]

@@FordTechMakuloco so far I've only seen them in hybrids Brian

[@heyitschinoable]

FordTechMakuloco New Fusions use it at least here wt fleet we have mostly hybrids that use 1234yf and POE lubricant. Expeditions i think are now 1234yf New Ford Ecosport as well.

[@watershed44]

@FordTechMakuloco The 2017 Escape we have as a company car uses r1234yf. Surprisingly the car only has about 23,000 miles on it and the A/C failed to cool above ambient temps of 83 F or so. Took it to the dealership and they diagnosed "weak compressor", not encouraged with the new systems.

[@rrmech11]

@@watershed44 hey buddy does it have service ports

[@mfslyphantom8811]

Hey you are a great instructor ive watched other vids of yours for some time now. My question is concerning a 2001 TD Excursion with dual a/c, is there any unique procedures to this thing? Its a FOT up front (it was, I installed a VOV when I had the system opened but may go back to stock if it makes diagnostics too complicated) and a TXV in the rear unit. My problem is I will apply vacuum for a hour at 29 inches, find no leaks, then charge to specs and the system cools poorly like a low charge, no excessive cycling though. Another thing worth noting that I have never experianced before is when its running for enough time to be stable at full cold the compressor gets icy cold to the touch! Usually most cars the compressor will get hot. Do You know what I'm doing wrong? So you know I've done a/c enough to know more than the basics but it hasnt helped me here.

[@lazaroperez5224]

Nice video!!! A cuestion what type of refrigerant you reccoment to used on, ? Thank you !!

[@mtucker3401]

The type your car takes. Most likely 134a

[@mcrowley8460]

Helpful video even if you don't own a ford.

[@raymondjackson6069]

Great video, but 1. How to responsibly vacuum and dispose of refrigerant, and 2. A side by side of the gauges for before and after comparison. Thanks.

[@jims146]

Looking at the static pressure I read 93 PSI which also is the same as ambient temp as well. This only holds true if the system and engine has not been run to as to increase it's temp. On 80's and 90's Fords the low cutout switch was adjustable, when the system was working fine but the customer still complained about cooling output I would adjust the low side to 28 PSI to give that extra cooling.

[@alsimeone7662]

Great video. Where did u get that work list u have strapped unde r the hood. I would love to get one. Thanks

[@ProjectZGarage]

Thanks for the info I need to check the system on my 2010 f150. The AC does not blow cold untill you get to high way speeds.

[@cruisepix]

Make sure the condenser has good air flow, no debris like bugs, leaves, paper and grass for starters.

[@leo28a]

Thanks Brian, Ive got 2010 explorer with rear ac Vehicle came in for no a/c cooling issue. Ambient temp is like 110F. Hooked up my gauges engine off And found 250psi low side. Started the system and the readings were: 110 low side and around 250 high I knew right away the compressor is shot. Flushed the whole system and Replaced the Compressor, condenser, orifice tube, high pressure line & cooling fan as well. Recharged the system and rechecked my readings and they were: Low side 60-70 High side around 250-300 And no cooling whatsoever.. Right away i knew there's a blockage in the system. Evacuated & Unhooked everything and flushed again "twice" Recharged and rechecked, Low side around 60 and dead slowly going down to 40's neighborhood. And cooling started coming out of the vents between 60-50F The thing i don't like about this is the new compressor doesn't cycle off..! Its running non stop.. I drove the car highway for about an hour, watching my thermometer in the center vent with my scanner showing the compressor clutch pid. And guess what, The compressor kicked off on 31F degrees coming out of the vents. I felt good coz my canin temp sensor at least works. 😃 Right away I suspected the low pressure switch mounted on the accumulator, Replaced with OE part and rechecked the cycling, but no change. My question now : Why my low pressure reading is moving dead slow to go down. ?? One thing I did not change is my receiver dryer/accumulator becoz its not available and I didn't wanna use aftermarket. Does a bad accumulator cause the system to be sucked down ever so slowly like this..?? Why is my com not cycling on and off..???? its brand new OE. ??? Do you think a partially blocked accumulator would cause such condition..?? Pls. Share your thoughts. Love your channel man 🌷

[@metalhalide4043]

I had this same issue, turns out I was overcharged which can give similar symptoms as an undercharge. The compressor frequency cycle is dependent on evap heat load and engine RPM which is controlled by the low side pressure switch or evap temp sensor. If you are overcharged you will have higher pressure at the TXV, increased load on the engine which will use more fuel, could damage the compressor, higher pressure = higher vent temps. If your compressor does not cycle on recirculate with low to medium fan speed after the cabin has cooled most likely you are overcharged.

[@leo28a]

Metal Halide thanks man for your share I think i do. I think its overcharged yes. But the tag says 44oz and do i did. But then i look at the ambient temp and said to myself thats too much.. Engine off, static pressure I'm reading 166psi Tomorrow I'm gonna reduce that to 120psi static, close enough to ambient temp. and recheck my readings and cooling If the compressor started cycling like it supposed to be. Then you're the man 👍 I'll be posting what omes out.

[@leo28a]

But how come..? The tag sticker says 44oz. How could that possibly be too much..?? 😟 Could that be related to blockage in the system in anyway..? If i do still have blockage, its gonna be in the accumulator..coz like i said, I did not change it..i just flushed it with 401 like 4 times to get it to clrar out. But before it was CV ompletely blocked.

[@metalhalide4043]

@@leo28a Static pressure is no indication of current charge, even with a few ounces you will read the same pressure. You have to adjust pressures with the windows down, out of direct sunlight, A/C on recirculate, fan on high, let stabilize for 5 minutes.

[@metalhalide4043]

@@leo28a If you have any kind of restriction both your low and high side will have lower pressures because there is less pressure at the compressor, its possible to even pull a vacuum on the low side if the restriction is bad.

[@LSmiata]

Loved this video and very detailed for refrigerant. How does your system evacuate the PAG oil? If it does, do you not have to replace the oil? How much? Does your unit separate PAG oil from r134a by weight/volume? Please advise, Mr. P

[@austinh1028]

Just changed out the fan clutch, A/C clutch (just the plate), and idlers on my '05, which helped a lot, but still not where it should be sitting at lights (on a 97 degree day). but now I notice it kicking on and off too fast like that, time for a can of A/C Pro

[@olenaerhardt7725]

Thank you so much, that is exactly what I needed if I can connect the Set (I have Pittsburgh A/C Manifold Gauge Set) somehow to see exact reading, what is the current pressure on both sides without starting the car. For some reason no one else explains this part (including instructions). Please can you also tell why there is a Schrader Core on Blue and Red hoses (though on one side but still). On Yellow hose I understand, bcs one side can go into that 2nd hole, which is below the Observation Window, and that hole has a Schrader Valve, so the end w/Schrader Core can depress it. But Red and Blue connect to Manifold or Manifold Couplers, and there are no Schrader Valves there. Manifold coupler also has one Schrader Core with which it will depress the Schrader Valve on the port of Low or High Pressure. In instructions all the hoses are shown with Schrader Core Ends being on the manifold, where there are no Schrader Valves. Thank you again.

[@garrettstevensen2467]

Thank you again brian! I have this exact same problem on all 4 fords! Curious... Do you advise 5W-30 engine oil on the 2006 F150 4.2L V6 and 4.6L V8, and E-150 4.6L V8? Factory spec is 5W-20. Mileage is 150k+ x4 vehicles.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

yes

[@DLITINTHEHOUSE]

What do you think of the recharge kits at auto parts stores?

[@wasimedoo7994]

Nice job bro 👍 keep up the good work God bless

[@miketeeveedub5779]

Great video - I've got a Ford Five Hundred , and now I have an idea of why my AC is not as potent as it should be. Bought myself some gauges - off to my garage I go... BTW - ensure that your Compressor Control Valve is not sticking. Had this problem with my car originally. Car had a full charge, but very poor A/C performance. I replaced the valve and it worked 100% better.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Yeah your vehicle is one of the few Fords that have that valve.

[@edbrandt8972]

Thanks a lot for making this video. I am seeing the same issue on my car. I think my leak is from the low side Schrader valve. I need to find the tool to replace the valve core that fits the valve in a Volvo. I am not going to recharge knowing that I have a leak. And I think the leak additives are not the way to go.

[@evangentry6210]

Any chance you’re swapping out any schrader valve cores any time soon? Would love a video on that! Is there a way to do it without evacuating the entire system? The core swap tools I see out there don’t seem to fit the huge cores that Ford uses.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

Most cores do not come out the get stuck

[@thomasrossi31]

Great timing! I see you linked a set of manifold gauges... do you have any experience with them? Are they good enough for a DIYer? I don’t mind spending a little more if necessary.

[@FordTechMakuloco]

They are just fine, the next step are gauges over $100.

[@thomasrossi31]

Great! Thanks for the reply.

[@europana7]

Solid ... what about PAG oil? When to add PAG ?

[@SpenceStan888]

Love this channel and other videos have been so helpful for us DIY'ers, but this video doesn't seem aimed for home maintenance but for beginning professionals, as who at home has a vacuum pump set?

[@FordTechMakuloco]

The recovery machine has nothing to do with this video. It is literally an example video of what it looks and sounds like when you have a low system charge and then how it looks in that same system with a proper charge, nothing else.

[@SpenceStan888]

@@FordTechMakuloco 10-4, thanks for follow-up

[@Blazer02LS]

Many parts stores have vacuum pumps and gauge sets as loaner tools. Unless you decide to get into AC work a lot buying them isn't a great idea.

[@user-zp8mh7jg2n]

Please your help & advice I have ford expedition 2012 with an issue on the rear AC not cooled like the front side. The rear side only pushing air like a Fan.

[@markwilliams2620]

Nice work! Will one of the future videos cover the 00-05 Taurus/Sable? Should be short: Replace compressor. Edit: And dryer and orifice tube.