How To Recharge an AC System - EricTheCarGuy

This video can show you the basics of recharging an AC system. I would urge you perform safe practices when working with AC and avoid venting refrigerant into the atmosphere. That said, with a little time and patients, you may be able to recharge your AC system yourself.
For more information on HVAC Problems.
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Finding leaks video: • How To Find and Repair...
Basics of AC: • AC System Basics - Eri...
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As I said in the video you need to be responsible when dealing with refrigerant, also in some locations it's not legal for you to perform your own AC work so keep that in mind and observe your local laws.
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Stay dirty
ETCG
Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, it cannot guarantee against unauthorized modifications of this information, or improper use of this information. EricTheCarGuy assumes no liability for property damage or injury incurred as a result of any of the information contained in this video. EricTheCarGuy recommends safe practices when working with power tools, automotive lifts, lifting tools, jack stands, electrical equipment, blunt instruments, chemicals, lubricants, or any other tools or equipment seen or implied in this video. Due to factors beyond the control of EricTheCarGuy, no information contained in this video shall create any express or implied warranty or guarantee of any particular result. Any injury, damage or loss that may result from improper use of these tools, equipment, or the information contained in this video is the sole responsibility of the user and not EricTheCarGuy.

[@theherbstep]

When you hook up the refrigerant canister YOU MUST PURGE THE YELLOW HOSE BEFORE CHARGING! It is done simply by the following: step 1: hook up yellow hose to refrigerant can. step 2: turn the can upside down and open the valve on the can so the refrigerant fills the yellow hose. step 3: at the manifold assembly briefly loosen the yellow hose until you get a small puff of liquid come out and seal it back. Then you can charge the system.

[@theherbstep]

If you are adding refrigerant to a system that has some refrigerant in and you don't need to vacuum you must also purge the suction hose (blue in color). because the blue hose will have air in it as well. Simply purge the suction hose with the refrigerant in the car by briefly loosening the hose at the manifold. There will be no liquid flash because at that stage in the refrigeration cycle the refrigerant should be superheated vapor. So make sure you give it a couple of seconds to remove all air out of the hose. Failure to purge the air out of an ac system will cause premature failure and poor performance of your system.

[@jasonbarner466]

Joseph Scheibmeir So when exactly do you purge the blue hose? Would I do this after purging the yellow line? (with the recharge canister hooked up?) Or do you do this after hooking up the high/low side and opening the schrader valves to where the pressure starts to be read? Little confused :p

[@theherbstep]

Jason Barner if you are low on refrigerant and do not vacuum the system because it will still be under pressure but need to add some refrigerant, When you hook up your gauges (full of air) the air must be purged out of the hoses that will be used in charging. You connect the hoses and turn the knobs so that you see the pressure. Proceed to the manifold and loosen the connection between hose and manifold for a couple seconds and the close it back. You do not have to purge the blue hose if you vacuumed the system because it will be under a vacuum, but must still purge the yellow hose when connecting to the refrigerant canister. Just think about the path the refrigerant is traveling and make sure it wont push air into the ac system. If you have anymore questions let me know, I work on AC's for a living.

[@DENicholsAutoBravado]

Joseph Scheibmeir Hey. Thanks for setting the record straight. A lot of guys commented about this, but you're the only one to fully explain it right. :)

[@gamerepair2020]

in this video he put dye in the hose so he couldn`t purge it.

[@Lockemeister]

Because of the small molecule of R134a, the refrigerant can commonly leak past the Schrader valves, especially the high pressure Schrader valve. The "dust caps" are actually an integral part of the entire system (per the EPA), being the last line of defense, so to speak, between the refrigerant and the atmosphere. There is a seal in the inside top of the cap that seals the top of the Schrader valve to theoretically seal the valve if/when the actual valve insert leaks. The "dust caps" need to be inspected for cracks and hand tightened to secure the system. Just wanted to mention that in case some folks think they are optional.

[@flybyairplane3528]

Lockemeister hello, not sure where you are but in NJ& some other juriststrictions , if I SERVICED A UNIT ( residential, ), I would have to LEAVE THAT UNIT WITH LOCABLE SCHRADER CAPS, OR I could be sued, because of HUFFING. CHEERS 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸

[@mikemartorana3522]

Cap are suppose to have a oring in them to seal the cap to the valve!

[@MisterRisk]

Thanks Eric. I have been repairing my own cars for 25+ years. Engine rebuilds, drive-train, suspension, even body and paint work now and then. There were a few things that were voodoo to me, welding and A/C. 10 years ago I started taking welding classes at the local community college and now I can weld anything I want. I've been watching your videos for a little while now and finally decided to get a set of a/c gauges and a vacuum pump. This video was my guide to my first home A/C repair and recharge. You are bringing knowledge to thousands of people and the comments enhance that by bringing in even more thousands of knowledgeable people to add to and acknowledge the information you impart. It is amazing.

[@pennsylvaniahvacproduction6658]

awesome teach me i am 18 years old and i would love to learn more about cars

[@olenaerhardt7725]

Sir, please could you tell how to purge the car AC system with dry nitrogen after solvent flushing? Is it very complicated procedure? Probably it is, since nothing on YT on this subject (including this rather detailed film, purging w/N_2 was not done though. I've read that if the AC system was opened to the air it should be purged w/N_2). Thank you in advance.

[@Arbitrageur_]

Nobody likes you

[@guestguide2544]

What I found by listening to ac experts is low side pressure is ballpark of 1/2 ambient air temperature and for high side 2x ambient air temp. So adding refrigerant at 80 degrees ambient temp low side would be about 4o and high side 160. At 100 degrees low side 50 high side 200. They have stainless steel injector plungers that allow adding correct oil right at low side hook up. When I charged mine last 5 yrs ago I believe I added just under 2 oz oil with the oil injector, could have added some leak detector with it but hadn't thought to do it.

[@mrfixit454]

And 12 years later this video is still helping. I had watched a few videos a couple months ago, bought all the gear and just lost interest in getting this done. Eric, you made this so much more simple than others. My daughters have A/C again. Thank you!

[@patbrock7961]

Great video, the center hose is called the charge hose, I noticed that when you introduced freon through the charge hose you didn't bleed the trapped air inside the hose, usually you need to bleed just a minor amount of freon to remove any air in the line. But great job all around.

[@jo300hn]

It's called the yellow hose, and those gauges have compound scales, positive pressure is in PSI and vacuum is in inches of mad hatter's juice

[@Hootysdad]

Yes!!! That's exactly what I noticed as well.

[@walterkersting6238]

Yeah, great job except for that. But that sucked…

[@walterkersting6238]

My neighbor is a crack head and he is an ac tech. I do my own repairs…

[@johncasor9698]

WOW induced air into the system??? must purge the service [ yellow line ] [ charge line ] first Hello...

[@tomboytomgirl5356]

Excellent video, Eric. Retired aircraft mx/engineering tech here. I like that you address the seemingly 'obvious' details. It's the little things that get you! You're absolutely correct: a/c systems are not for the faint of heart. Consequently; this should always be an "A/C for Dummies" course. You've done that. That's what makes you so good as an instructor. (BTW; I love "for Dummies" books/vids.) Remember; always keep on addressing all those little things (like the O-ring missing on a fitting; NEVER open the hi-press valve; safety glasses,etc.) that guys/females are too shy to raise a question about. Thanks and keep up the excellent work!

[@clausgraf]

Replaced the condenser in my Dodge Durango last week, pulled a vacuum and recharged it. It is working now! Watching your video made it very easy! Thanks, and keep up the good work & videos!

[@eirannehooie5951]

Single mom diyer mechanic here. I noticed I didn't have an oring on mine and was told I didn't need it. I knew I was right! 💁🏼‍♀️ Now just waiting on the sun to come up so I can try to vacuum it again and check the pressure! I inherited an old broke down 04 mustang. Everything was wrong with it. Electrical to suspension to major engine work. You name it, I did it I swear. I did all the work myself and fixing it up. Got it running, inspected, and registered! Then the AC stopped immediately after in Houston weather. 😭 Replaced all AC components and could only vacuum to -22 psi on low side. I pray this is the fix (o-ring) and I can ride with AC again! God bless KZbin and guys like you! ❤️ I cannot spend more money on Uber anymore! In a few hours, I hope to update with good news! Lord knows I need it! 🙏 Thank you again!

[@eirannehooie5951]

It wasn't the o-ring. 🥺 I have a leak. I've been researching how to find the leak when I have 0 freon in the system. I don't have an air compressor or nitrogen that has been suggested. My thoughts are could I possibly pull a vacuum and after turning it off, could I spray soapy water at the fittings to hopefully see them bubble? Idk if that will work or not since it's the opposite of adding pressure. Anyone please help 🙏 Thank you!

[@mikeashford9240]

Eric The Car Guy, Thank you for the info you make it look all so simple ... I got my Ford Ranger down to -25 and it held vacuum for several hours so I put the R-134a in the system and it went smooth ,, so no more driving around with the windows down ......

[@shadetreemechanic01]

Slugging the compressor, AKA hydraulic lock from liquid refrigerant can break the reed valves if not worse. Shaking the can at a 45-90 degree angle is safer. Though this too will feed slugs of liquid refrigerant, the slugs will likely be small enough to sufficiently gasify before they hit the compressor. After one connects the refrigerant bottle, one should purge the air from the center hose by cracking the connection to the manifold and leaking out some gas refrigerant. BTW, this particular type of purging is legally allowed. If you are topping off w/o vacuuming first, purging must be done instead at the car end of both the manifold hoses - before the valves to the vehicle are opened. Not purging hoses introduces moisture & incompressible air to the system. Introduce too much moisture and you are going to eventually sludge/acidity the refrigerant oil and this can lead to severe internal consequences such as "black death" that can ruin entire systems. Air raises pressures and decreases system performance. You also put an idler bearing back into service with what appeared to be pretty-new belts. You admitted these idlers are weak links - you are likely to have to go back in unnecessarily soon for that one. If I see an idler that spins as loose and free from thick grease as that old one did, I replace it - especially if I already have the part removed (though in the past when money was tight I did have luck popping off one of the seals, cleaning and regreasing them). BTW, in terms of top performance, the responses of the gauges to the compressor cycling tells me that air conditioner system was slightly undercharged (though with the air and moisture you introduced, it's hard to be sure of anything). A top-rate mechanic will have cleanliness concerns much like a doctor. Drives me nutty that you often don't clean the parts you are assembling better. In today's video, it appears you left dirt near the compressor shaft seal. I would have tried extra hard to get any potentially abrasive dirt out of there, as the compressor shaft seal is already a weak point prone to failure. Also, oftentimes your dirty gloves appear to be shedding dirt into critical areas without you recognizing it. For example, I try to keep the ends of my manifold hoses as clean as possible by handling them only with clean hands and keeping the ends connected to the manifold's storage fittings when not in use. You are clearly excellent at creating videos. Unfortunately, like many commercial mechanics, you have a few bad habits that in the long term, could end up leading to more breakdowns. Being that you are a leader in videos that cater to DIY mechanics that care more about their equipment than the average hack mechanic trying to make a buck, I expect better from you in this regard. But thanks for the excellent videos. And sorry to dog you.

[@fourstarrjim]

Great video, Eric! The yellow hose commonly referred to as the “Service Line”, because this lets you service the system. The adapter on the can is commonly called a “can tap”. Now there is a blue adapter for the can of refrigerant to prevent leaks, because the cans of refrigerant have their own shrader valves.

[@DIYWithTheRichardsons]

0

[@jamesworsham2312]

The yellow one is the Sun it's in the middle it's the Sun haha

[@d1sternagle]

Too bad we are the center, sun moon stars revolve around us. But you keep believing we are on a spinning space ball going thousands of mph in several different directions.

[@JohnRBooth]

Dude, You have fixed so many of my car problems. Thank you sincerely john

[@joeg.cintron4226]

I viewed your video last week several times and took notes. Saturday morning I replaced my Jeep's A/C Compressor that took, surprisingly, one hour - remove the old and mount the new. Taking a break from the exhausting heat (we live in Florida), I once again viewed your video. An hour later, back into the heat and following your time line, I was finished in 1 1/2 hours. Thank you so much for an excellent, well throughout and easy to understand video. BTW, I saved $225 in the process including the gauge manifold set. [I was quoted $422 for the job, including tax.] I am now looking over some of your other videos - just in case. God Bless!

[@shelbyandmargaret]

You're a very good instructor. I took notes and soon I'll buy the equipment needed to find links, repair and possibly recharge the a/c system on my 1989 Ford E150. After eighty dollars for a recharge and twenty dollars for a hose replacement I had a/c for four days. Two weeks of running back and forth because there was problems with getting another unrelated repair right the mechanic simply wanted to send me somewhere else to spend more money. At this point I figure I have nothing to lose by trying to figure things out myself versus going blind on the word of others and paying whatever they demand and coming out no better off.

[@cyberkiller83]

Eric. I love your videos, i am not a mechanic by trade, but your videos some years ago gave me the little push that i need it to work on my own AC and get the tools. Now i work in my AC and my friends AC, i had changed compressors, valves, hoses, and obviously recharges. Now regarding the pressures that you get, my little experience had shown me that, the high side compression depende on various things like your said. * The AC Compressor power or status, i mean, a bad compressor will give your lows pressures on high side and some noises * The condenser debris or clean status, if its not too clean, the temperature will rise, rising the refrigerant pressure more than nominal values (i had that case on my fathers car)) * The charge quantity, if it is overcharged, you will see higher than usual both high side and low sides pressures * Finally the ambient temperature. On various cars i found there is a table with related the high and low side pressures in function to ambient temperature, i use those to diagnose my charge, i want it to be close, and, the weird part with your video is that i think is a little too low on the high side, like there is missing refrigerant still, because normally you will see on very chili days (about 18 degree) a low Side of about 30psi to a high side between 130 to 160 psi. Maybe your day was colder that 18 degree, this way, that pressures will be pretty perfect. Here in Medellin Colombia i have a ambient temp of about 30degree and that gives me a nominal low pressure of 40 to 50 psi to a high pressure of 250 to 270 psi. The chart is easily findable on the net. www.acprocold.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/11/Temp-pressure-chart-33776F1.jpg Another tip that you maybe forgot to mention is, when you apply die or oil or ven the R134a gas to the system, you should purge a little bit the INPUT HOSE (i think that is the name jeje), so there is no air, moisture aggregated to the system. Again. Congratulations on your videos, i love them very much, i used this video as a start on the AC world, and i love every minute of it, i used too the brake pad change video, i even used my vacuum pump to vacuum by brakes while charging, i love to learn all about this and do your self a lot of stuff. Thanks Eric. P.S: Pardon my english, my primary language as i mentioned in another comment is spanish, so... i love english but i am nowhere an expert on it.

[@jeffpoppert8344]

Eric is an excellent instructor. I used many of his videos successfully. I replaced a compressor in a 2003 Elantra back in 2019 and used this video to learn how to vacuum and charge a system. The ac is still blowing cold. Thanks Eric.

[@havoc010101]

Eric, great video! It's called the service hose of the manifold gauge set. Keep the content coming!

[@troyken9960]

I just did this this morning according to the video. I had the exact same symptoms and added R-134 as shown outlet temp dropped from 46 to 39-40 degrees F. Feels much better. Thanks for the helpful video!!!

[@Chris-im4rd]

Eric. Know that your old AC videos are still helping people like me today.

[@consaka1]

The reason your pressure was low was likely because you weren't putting any heat in the system with the interior fan on low. Also the low ambient temps probably helped too. Now if it's hot and your fans are on high inside the car and you still have low pressures it's probably the compressor has worn out pistons. I love AC work and enjoy tearing down old compressors. It's very enlightening especially when you know the symptoms it had.

[@zyxnix]

Another great video Eric. Thanks. Note: Make sure your seal on your gauges good. I thought I had a big leak in the system and it was a bad low pressure seal on my gauges. My set was about 10 years old. Went got a new one and bam. Good to go.

[@roberthaynie5957]

Thank you Eric. You are the gift that keeps on giving. Love the clarity and the amount of detail you include in your explanations. That really helps with hacks like me. I have never been unsuccessful repairing anything after watching your videos.

[@DjJtown]

I can't tell you how many times I've used your vids, especially this one as a reminder of the steps. With that being said --- see what I did there --- I just noticed your high tech audio. I cassette to CD adapter. Well, at least I'm not the only one. BTW, good luck on whatever you are doing and enjoy. You've been a great help and I shall say; in some cases; a great instructor. Thank You very much for sharing your knowledge with ALL of us.

[@AceABCDN]

Hi Eric. I'm actually a professional career pilot, but my hobby has always been restoring cars, especially the older ones. Your videos are great. I maybe a little bit more of a perfectionist, but you definitely come across as knowing what your doing, and most importantly, you show and talk about even your mistakes or errors in your first judgements calls that makes you a really do it yourself kind of guy that all home mechanics can connect and relate to. Great work Man. And just a small plug, the only other repair videos that I watch on a regular basis it are Kevin Tetz, Hands-On-Cars. By combining not only both of your knowledge, but also common sense and attitude, there isn't anything I can't fix on a car or truck, in budget, and do it right the first time.

[@nandor690]

Just observations here. 1. When you didn't purge the center line you added air into the system. 2 never operate a compressor in a vacuum. 3 you could have started by charging vapor into the high side while the car was off. After it equalizes turn the high side off, start the car and charge the rest into the low side.

[@chucktittl3090]

Why is there a stem valve in the end of the supply/vacuum line then? Doesn't that seal the hose when removed from the vacuum pump...

[@DGOfTheCentury]

@@chucktittl3090 He took the line off to add UV dye, because there is no valve on that end. *facepalm*

[@StrykerWolf92]

Make sure you read the labels on the r134a bottles completely because a lot of times it'll say 19 oz and you read the labels and it will really be 17oz and 2 ounces of "Additives" and pag oil.

[@jamesbureau9968]

Eric, if everyone is such a professional and is criticizing your videos and knows exactly what to do, why are they watching your videos ? great info. thank you.

[@macleancreek1544]

Just a few notes from an AC GuyNEVER introduce liquid refrigerant into the system as bearing washout can occur and equal compressor damage or failure.ALWAYS weigh in you charge with an accurate scale, never trust what the can says.Run your fan on HIGH to move more air across your evaporator coil, thus ensuring sufficient evaporating of the refrigerant and less likely you slug compressor while charging.Make sure to PURGE the common/yellow hose after connecting the refrigerant tank. ALWAYSDon't let your compressor short cycle like in video. Jumper the LPC (Low Pressure Control) Switch if needed till enough refrigerant is in the system to maintain an adequate suction/back pressure to overcome the LPC setting.Test both LPC AND HPC (Low and High Pressure control switches before starting the new compressor (must be a reason why it failed in the 1st place)Add the refrigerant slowly. Its not a race. The low & high side pressures are relative to AMBIANT temperature so try using a PT (Pressure Temperature) Chart for the exact refrigerant you are using. R-134a/R-12, ect...

[@jetfan6129]

Mac it is his wife's car, and he decided to fix it finally instead of giving up his Honda Element which has working A/C. The Subaru had a massive cut in one of the lines which he finally replaced. There was nothing wrong with the compressor. He should have purged the Service line as you said but otherwise was a great video. Why is it that Cobblers have holes in their shoes and Mechanics drive crappy vehicles?

[@MichaelBorne-rh8co]

Cuz we know more or less exactly what we can get away with with our own vehicles so we can "wait" longer than most non mechs. We drive crappy ones cuz we can get pretty close to accurately knowing when absolutely needin to replace somethin, u know, when something isnt perfect but we can still get away with not replacing it for a while. Cuz it's not a customers car, we can do shit quicker and use less perfect parts when some jobs do HAVE to get done to ours cuz it's our own, should something fail. We don't like blowin money on parts that we know are still good(enough), we can use used, free and cheaper parts on our own vehicles so they're not always the best ones. Since it's ours, we know it WELL and know when our last mile is coming. We usually get shitted out of good money workinn for someone or somewhere else, hence, we rarely ever make enough most of the time to spend a lot on our own even if we wanted to. Jet Fan, those are just a few off top of my head. Good question too, Jet Fan! Love to hear some ,more reasons from some other auto mechanics!

[@hotrodrebel855]

How about... because we get greasy and turn wrenches all day long so we're sick of that shit and would rather do "anything" else! Plus most mechanics don't have the option of working in a controlled climate so we're looking to chill out or warm up for a while! In my particular case... I don't mind working on my Hotrod but it seldom needs attention!!

[@rogercharles4164]

Thanks to my Mentor Eric.I bought my tools vacuum pump,gauge,die,oil etc and fix my own A/C.So great Cudos to Eric🙏🏾💯🤠

[@RossLomonaco]

One of the better videos on this subject

[@JusTryNc]

If your fan was on high the compressor wouldn't cycle on and off. This is how you want to do it when charging. When your fan is on low the evaporator core is getting so cold that the thermostat is cutting off the compressor. We were always taught to turn fan on high when charging to prevent unwanted clutch shutoff..

[@MIKESWILDWORLD]

Totally agree.

[@quaddawg]

It's the Service Line.. I love your vids Eric.. pro shop here, and we still go to videos now and then for hints!

[@messybench]

Just a few nbservations. When you attach the refrigerant to the yellow hose bleed the air out at the manifold before opening the low side valve. Also the inner scale is inches of mercury below 0 psi then the scale becomes psi and the outer 134a scale is temp corresponding to the pressure shown in Celsius not Fahrenheit. Otherwise really well done. Thanks for posting.

[@flybyairplane3528]

Carl Brunberg wher hell do you ever got a pt chart on the gauge in CELCIUS, UNLESS YOU ARE IN SOMEWHERE WHICH USES METRIC SYSTEM, THEN YOUR PRESSURES ARE PROBABLY IN BARs Cheers 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸

[@johnbartram3775]

im a heavy equipment mechanic, recently got job with company that has lots of equipment w/ac have not use my ac taining in many years your ac videos and explanations are excellent.

[@scottskofield2746]

Great video learned so much. I have replaced all ac components in a 2008 Honda an had to pay someone to vacuum and charge system. Now I am working on a 2004 Lincoln Town car. I bought gauges and pump and plan to do the entire job and have learned so much. Thank You, Scott

[@sarachambers9100]

good info -- as for subaru the service manual for filling after evacuation says to fill through the high pressure side without engine running then to go to low pressure side with it running. start up compressor is done by cycling the ac switch off and on several times to prevent shocking the compressor - leave ac on/engine running then go to low side to top off pressure

[@Archifx]

Just found Eric's channel yesterday (go figure) some of the best vids I've seen on YT.

[@cheskagonzalez304]

[@HelloKittyFanMan.]

_

[@MM0SDK]

you been missing out with loads of catching up to do. ;) Don't tell me you haven't been watching scanner danner's vidz either. ;)

[@35057]

I like ETCG better than Scotty... Best repair videos on the net... :D

[@animalcorvair]

Bayer-Z28 scotty has some good ideas too

[@CCWSig]

DO NOT TURN THE CAN UPSIDE DOWN WHILE CHARGING. By doing this you are introducing liquid refrigerant into the low side which can potentially sludge the compressor by washing out the oil in it. Keep your cans upright and take your time while recharging. In this demonstration it should also be noted it doesn't really matter, but if you are reading pressures, the fan should be set to high. Temperature on the components create different pressures, and air movement creates a exchange of these temperatures. Pretty good video though, thanks for posting.

[@liljthedude]

+CCWSig I wish that was written on the instructions of the can! I may have damaged my compressor now! :(

[@sprockkets]

+CCWSig Cans tell you to alternate between liquid and gas charging by saying hold the can at 12 o'clock and a few seconds at 3 o'clock. You can't do it solely via gas because the temperature of the can will drop to saturation and it barely will come out. Controlling the amount of liquid charging to a minimum is fine - it's continuous liquid that kills compressors. A simple way to check if you are overdoing it is feeling the low line and how ice cold it gets when you dump liquid. Heck, when charging R410a on home a/c, you must charge via liquid - otherwise you mess up the blend of refrigerant in the process.

[@CCWSig]

A few seconds at a time likely isn't a problem.

[@ranchview3470]

+CCWSig you're right sir the can should stay right side up so only vapor goes into the system.

[@chuckferraris8489]

Not on blends (of which R-134a is) UNLESS you are using the entire container. Otherwise, the blends will separate and you will not get proper cooling. What you do is meter the refrigerant so it is boiling off through the gauges before it gets to slugging your compressor.

[@bordersw1239]

Excellent vid, scared myself when I tried to do it myself years ago, found a local aircon expert - most was the same techniques as yours. Last recharge he found a very small leak but suggested a buy a leak sealant and add it myself, showed me where to buy and how to do it. It worked brilliantly for the next 3 years, then I sold the car.

[@roystewart8695]

I was a certified licensed ac tech for autos in the 90’s and I liked your video a lot! Very clear very precise very detailed! Thanks for the refresher! Need to charge my big rig ac thanks!

[@dojmike]

I always bleed the feeder hose by opening the Schrader valve at the top of the yellow hose for a few seconds before charging. Otherwise, you will add the air from the hose (including ambient moisture) into the system. I know it is not a lot, but I prefer perfection.

[@joew9392]

On a humid day you would put a lot of moisture in the system by not bleeding the hoses..

[@davidparks901]

Depending how close the low side connection is to the compressor will determine if you can invert the can of freon and for how long. I was taught to taught to turn it upside down until the needle moves then turn it back upright for a 20 or 30 seconds to allow the liquid freon that just went in to turn into a gas hopefully before it gets to the compressor. If the low side connection is real close to the compressor and you invert the can the liquid freon might not have enough time to turn into a gas and you could actually be putting liquid refrigerant right into the compressor and that could damage the suction valve. Use common sense. If the connection is real close don't try inverting the can. It will take a little longer but you can shake the can up an down and back and forth or dip the can in and out of a pot of hot water. Wear gloves the can gets real cold. PS: Before you charge the system after the can of freon is connected to the service/suction hose DON"T open the low side manifold valve until you loosen the connection at the manifold to PURGE the air that is in the service/suction hose. Loosen the service/suction hose fitting for a few seconds at the manifold and let freon gas flow out pushing out the air in the hose. Wear gloves you can burn your fingers if liquid freon touches your skin. Also wear safety glasses!

[@goognamgoognw6637]

Good info. When i saw him invert the refrigerant can the whole time, i immediately thought , mistake ! He should not do that. liquids are uncompressible, and he might just have damaged his compressor lifespan. Your trick about flushing the air in the hose is a bit overkill and hazardous without leather gloves, but it's actually smart.

[@JoseOrtiz-im5wu]

Thank you for answering a question that I have had for years. The connection ends on the side of the ac hose system . Always wondered what they were for.

[@mtsflorida]

Well done Eric. The center line is called the auxiliary line and goes between the auxiliary port and vacuum, containing tank or refrigerant.

[@latemodelclassics]

I wanted to comment that the AC should only be charged when the ambient air outside is above 70 F. Below this, refrigerant has a hard time coming out of the can. Another thing I do to speed up the charge on cooler days is to set the can on top of the engine so that the fan blows hot air on it. This raises the pressure in the can and the freon flows better/quicker out of the can. As freon evaporates from the can to charge the system, the can temperature drops, thus slowing down the charge. Don't get the can too hot to hold. 80-100 F is plenty. Also, it is not a good idea to flip the can upside down while charging from the low side if you don't know what you are doing. If conditions are right, this can send liquid into the compressor and potentially harm the compressor. If you know what you are doing, you can also charge the system from the high side by flipping the can upside down to introduce liquid AFTER the compressor. When removing the connections from the charging ports, remove the high side while the system is off. This is the lowest pressure the high side will encounter. Remove the low side while the compressor is running. This is the lowest pressure the low side will encounter.

[@halleffect1]

great tip on the oil fill in the center hose Eric. Can't believe I never thought of that..

[@billhill839]

Hi Eric. Turning the can upside down means you were charging the low side with liquid refrigerant is not good as you can slug the compressor. A compressor is meant to compress a gas, not a liquid. What i used to do to make charging a car's AC system go faster was set the can in a container of hot water. This speeds up charging safely. Anyone else want to weigh in on this? Thanks!

[@jontowers4841]

So what happens to my ac now since I introduced liquid first? Is my compressor shot? I am getting really cold air.

[@billhill839]

@@jontowers4841Hi. I said it "can" damage the compressor. If your AC is nice and cold now you should be ok. automobile compressors are more forgiving that your standard Ac compressor as far as slugging.

[@f14tomcataocretired95]

Once again Eric, OUTSTANDING instructional video in detail. Saved to my Things-To-Do on my Audi this weekend. You should be paid for these and for all the things you have helped people accomplish. The amount of time you spend making and editing your instructional videos should be recognized. You have helped me more than 10 times accomplishing automotive tasks. Have a great day and again BIG THANKS for all you do.!! This Natural Light's for you.

[@rjsmith7170]

Best Damn channel for Automotive help in my opinion. Thanks Eric 👍

[@jinglejazz7537]

HOWDY ERICTHECARGUY...I have a 92 crown vic lx, with 280,000kms on it. had the throttle sticking problem, didn't know what it was causing it to hesitate and even stall on the QE2 in Alberta. Saw your vid, man that throttle was completely covered in thick gunk, cleaned it out like you showed, and it works great now, now I have to change the belt, followed your instructions, another triumph, thanks eh!

[@eatont9999]

The worst mistake you made was not charging the supply line. Always crack the supply line open at the manifold set to get the air out of the line before you start charging the system. As of now, you have an entire line's worth of air and moisture in your AC system.

[@billycook5688]

+eatont9999 Correct...

[@RC-Heli835]

+eatont9999 How do you get the air out from the manifold to the AC line at the car? Maybe crack your fitting on the hose at the quick coupler? Or will the needle valve open and let the air out on the quick coupler? It sould coolant has to come through there.

[@eatont9999]

+ILTSYC The manifold set would have been under vacuum and no air should be in it. The supply line was not under vacuum during the process, so it still has air in it. Purging the supply line at the manifold is as good as it gets.

[@RC-Heli835]

eatont9999 Ok thanks for the info.

[@BernardBethea6339]

+eatont9999 i was going to say that lol he should have bled the line first to get rid of air

[@The94Bullet]

Eric thank you, I love the way you explain the process of repairs and services. You go into such detail and go through every single step by step process that one must do.

[@merkur8777]

Turning the can upside down and charging liquid is not a good idea. It can slug the compressor as mentioned by some and damage it by blowing the valves out. It won't hurt to turn it upside down for a second or two but for safety's sake it should be moved upright again. This can continue to be alternated in this fashion. If the can won't empty fast enough palm it. Body heat can help. There are also can warmers and my favorite is a pan of hot water. When charging, try to keep the RPMs elevated (1800 or so) as that will drive the low pressure side down and in turn empty the can faster.

[@billsmith7673]

Merkur87, thank you. That was informative.

[@consaka1]

Meh, you will only slug it if everything is so cold it doesn't evaporate. It still has to go through the evaporator and with the fans on high putting all kinds of heat into it you should never be in danger of slugging it. That being said I usually just shake the can or hold it upside down for short periods. Can't monitor pressures accurately with the can upside down.

[@joew9392]

Sometimes mechanics do that to save time but like you said it's not safe for the compressor...

[@priapillay737]

Bill Smith how to replace the air con compressor bearing

[@theherbstep]

I charge all blended refrigerant in liquid form. Yes you need to be careful not flood the compressor with liquid. When I open the low side to the service hose I *barely open it so I can slowly charge the system.

[@oscarmontes2066]

Despite the fact you didn’t purge the service line, the information is very useful, thank you much, keep going!!

[@plumcrazee7525]

Mention that while vacuum pump is "sucking" air out of AC System, you might see a "fog" coming out of the vacuum pump. The "fog" is moisture that is being removed from AC System. When no more "fog" is coming out of the vacuum pump, you've removed most of the moisture from the AC System. Great video!!

[@speardeeply]

Eric, I really can't thank you enough. All your videos are good. Very well filmed, very clear explanations, and I always watch them again before I repeat a procedure I have done many times. It just avoids mistakes. I'm very grateful for your efforts. Tom

[@nickmoore8428]

You have introduced air into the system. You should have purged the line between the refrigerant can and the manifold by loosining the hose end at the manifold and letting some gas flow out and pushing the air out, then retighting the hose. That amount of air will mess with the pressures and may also have water in it.

[@WasimAkram-dv1ch]

Exactly what i was thinking.. Plus he also turned the refrigerant upside down while charging in the low side that introduced liquid gas in the low side instead of vapour charge.

[@MichaelMosesHammer]

Wasim Akram you can put liquid refrigerant into the low side when the compressor is not running. let someone certified do the job correctly.

[@WasimAkram-dv1ch]

Michael Hammer​ and the compressor was running when he liquid charged the sytem. See properly before you make comment about something.

[@arvanleany2578]

Y

[@ShardsOfNarsil]

Wasim Akram Hack job. Lol.

[@hartland749]

I like the way this guy's explains things. really easy to understand.

[@kevindavis3351]

Lol I'm in the process of recharging my a/c right now but I found it funny and convenient that you have the same manifold gauges and vacuum pump that I'm using.

[@jumpercable20]

I spent 15 years as a ASE certified master and Chevrolet certified. Back in the 80's we used R12, then R134 came out and was referred to as "OZONE SAFE". What happened? now you are killing children if Ozone safe R134 leaks out. I remember when you could no longer go to an auto parts store and buy R12 unless you had some type of certification card. Why can you now go into an auto parts store and buy R134 without any proof that you know what you're doing? I retired in 1998 so every now and then, I come to your site for a little reminder to help me along the way. Thanks Eric.

[@michaeldavis4746]

Great video Eric. Question... After evacuation, is it proper to air purge the yellow center hose by opening the refrigerant can valve and cracking the yellow hose fitting at the manifold until a small amount of refrigerant exits at this fitting so that any atmospheric air is purged from the line?

[@BrandonSmith-zr8jm]

Yes sir, this is because there is air in the yellow hose, and you definitely don't want air inside the system. So you do a small purge with refrigerant to get rid of any air in the line. The blue and red hose would already be under a vacuum after evacuating the system.

[@tonyrunyon375]

How do you purge the supply(middle) hose when you have dye/oil in it? Great video as always.

[@UdoVali]

Awesome presentasion. You're really good with those DIY's. Keep up the good work!

[@ramirotinajero1401]

dont forget to make a video on R134a refrigerant breakdown and how to spot it before it ruins your air compressor something i see alot during them midsummer months even though im already experience ac service tech myself i still enjoy watching your videos people could learn alot from you Eric "the service guy"

[@MichaelMickelsen]

It's great to find a video that is explained clearly for the common man.

[@anthonymichaels2275]

Great Video Eric! it refreshed my memory :) This along with your other videos are always packed with easy to understand info.

[@ronaldlehmann6935]

Good teacher-u maded it easy to follow-Thank you

[@joserotary9636]

Eric, thank you por always putting good content and explaining it, great video 👍👍👍

[@garywinkel1831]

Love your videos! I just replaced the compressor and condenser on my son's car today. I bought my vacuum pump and gage set at Harbor Freight. I'm not a big fan of HF stuff but for this application, it seems adequate. YOU helped me through this. The money I saved versus taking it to a repair shop paid for the pump and gages. Keep posting! Your videos are the best! Thank you!! Winkel

[@Clearanceman2]

Doing this for the first time replaced my accord compressor and drier and now I'm ready to add freon. Watching this and Chris Fix. Hope I don't screw it up. At least it holds vacuum. Held overnight didn't move a bit.

[@kristoffleys7253]

the yellow hose is called the sevice hose

[@macleancreek1544]

+Kristoff Leys Or I have always called it the COMMON Hose

[@milop6471]

You my friend deserve a Nobel prize in ac repair

[@flyurway]

I was thinking it could be called the "yellow hose"! :)

[@mrcool1116]

It's also called a vacuum gauge, vacuum line, or vacuum hose. As to not confuse this line with the other 2 lines. The other 2 lines will be called red hose and blue hose.

[@flybyairplane3528]

Maclean Creek ALL OF MY gauges are the BLACK YELLOW JACKET BRAND, THEY ARE HEAVY & costs much more, & they are not leaky as the braided RWB hoses . Cheers 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸

[@jameshoward433]

It's a pretty good idea to set your refrigerant can in some warm water to make sure and get the most charge out of the can and into the system, especially when you are on the last can.

[@WILSON.1]

Every car repair forum or youtube channel on the internet insists on taking the car/truck to a professional service center to have the refrigerant drained so that you don't "drain it into the atmosphere." I called three shops around me, and none will do it unless they're doing the entire a/c job. Welp, I have not choice but to drain it myself it looks like.

[@ernestorillion665]

+WILSON! you are right, they will do it only if they are doing the a/c work

[@AlkalineGamingHD]

+N MC riiiight...

[@spy8464BB]

My understanding is that the refrigerant is heavy and moves staight to the ground where it continues to break down into inert compounds . So much for the ozone layer high up in the atmosphere . Maybe we could get AL Gore over to the house to collect it. I know just where he should collect it.

[@mauricecardinal6352]

NASA. Yup. We can trust those guys who never went to any moon anywhere, anytime in history. LOLOLO

[@u02jgc9]

Yeah, when you use a pump to evacuate the system where do you think it's exhausting to? Even on his previous video he points to it exhausting water vapor into the air. Well, where do you think it pumps refrigerants to?

[@dibraniuk]

I spend 3 days training on a workshop and spend over £2000 to get the ac ticket many years ago and learned less than what you can learn here from Eric. Rather awesome stuff @as always' but this tutorial it really strkes the neil on its head; one can learn here and then can go and do the training just to get the ticket. Over here is called "safe handling of refrigerants" or F- Gas (its new name) one needs it because without the ticket the ""gas" (refrigeration) shops are not authorized to sell refrigerant (the cooling stuff! you know which is to blame for the thinning out of the ozone layer - on which the earth's protection from radiation depend upon) I find a bit funny that some diy shops do sell gas cans to the general public! thank you Eric

[@josephdeacon7774]

Did it myself felt great and not to brag but i got a perfect vacuum-30. That is after i fixed my leak in the evaporator lines. Awesome video thank you

[@aaronbritt2025]

Don't turn the can upside down. You want to charge gaseous refrigerant, not liquid. Leaving the can right side up insures only gas enters the system. You'll notice the can gets very cold. This is caused by the liquid it the can turning into gas. Once the can gets very cold, the liquid won't turn to gas very quickly. To speed the process, you can stick the bottom 2/3 of the can in hot water.

[@flyboy2610]

WARM water, not hot.

[@Frank289100]

THE FIRST THING YOU DO BEFORE YOU EVER ATTEMPT TO CHARGE ANY AC SYSTEM BOTH CAR AND HOME TO COMMERCIAL IS TO CLEAN YOUR CONDENSER. A DIRTY CONDENSER CAN RAISE THE HIGH HEAD PRESSURE 100lbs. SO CHARGING YOUR DIRTY CONDENSOR CAN READ HIGH SIDE PRESSURES UP TO 275-300 LBS OVER WORKING YOUR COMPRESSOR WHICH WILL LEAD TO BLOWING IT. CLEANING YOUR COMPRESSOR IS A EASY PROCEEDOR. SPRAY SOME FANTASTIC CLEANER ON YOUR CONDENSER AND LET IT SOAK FOR 5-10 MINUTES. RINSE IT DOWN WITH A HOSE AND NOW YOU ARE READY TO SAFELY CHARGE YOUR SYSTEM. SOMETIMES JUST CLEANING YOUR CONDENSOR WILL RESTORE THE AC UNIT WITHOUT EVEN NEEDING A CHARGE OR JUST A VERY SMALL TOP OFF TO THE SYSTEM. BY CHARGING WITH A DIRTY CONDENSOR YOU MY OVERCHARGE THE SYSTEM TO THE POINT WHERE IT DOESN'T WORK BLOWING THE COMPRESSOR OR RUPTURING THE AC HOSES. AS A RULE OF THUMB "CLEAN THE CONDENSOR FIRST". I CLEAN MY CAR CONDENSOR EVERY 2 YEARS..

[@alberthammond6981]

Do you really know what you're talking about? Dirt ?? there should not be any dirt in the system and by putting liquid soap in the system you've just contaminated your A/C system at most I would blow it out with air nothing more I'm surprised you didn't screw your system

[@Frank289100]

ALBERT, ARE YOU REFERRING TO MY POST? IF SO HOW IS THE SOAP GOING TO GET INTO A SEALED SYSTEM? BY THE WAY ALBERT. BACK IN THE 1980'S I INSTALLED THE FIRST PROTOTYPE MITSUBISHI SPLIT TYPE UNIT WHICH WERE CALLED MR. SLIM WHICH DROPPED INTO A 2X4 DROP CEILING TILE WHICH YOU SUPPORTED WITH THREADED ROD TO THE UPPER CEILING FOR WHICH TODAY HAVE BECOME A STANDARD IN THE WORLD.

[@LucidAutowerks]

He doesn't mean the inside of the condenser, he means the outside. If air can't pass through because of dirt build up, the system won't work properly.

[@Frank289100]

NOT ACCORDING TO HIM.

[@CubasAutomotive]

+Michael Fixit hahaha... some people have no clue. Of course Frank was talking about the oustide, & I totally agree. ..not only cleaning the OUTSIDE of the condenser but also the radiator. Check coolant levels too. The AC system needs the cooling system to work well also... fans, good fluid, & circulating pump. @Frank thanks for the added info, even if some people didn't understand. :)

[@aarontapatio2257]

You can rent the vacuum and gauges etc. From Oriellys 👍👍

[@bjr2379]

And Auto Zone as I just did...

[@chadbailey8152]

U can , it's free, but they want a 320 dollar down payment, when you bring it back, 100 percent refunded

[@chadbailey8152]

@@bjr2379 what they charge you?

[@bjr2379]

@@chadbailey8152 You have to pay for them like you were actually buying them. I think it was around $100.00. When you return them you get a full refund. I think you can keep them for 30 days.

[@NightSky777]

Thank you man! I had to replace my Heater Core on a Nissan Frontier 2001, and what a job.....! had to remove the passenger seat, front dashboard, center console, steering wheel cover, radio, ....AND A/C lines. while there found the "cabin filters" ..YUCK! They were like your house air filter that should be replaced every 3 months, so you can imagine what they looked like after 15 yrs!! Anyway, your video here was very very helpful, saved me a bundle. Good timing for the Season. So, Thanks Again!

[@poppiarlin5612]

The scale on you can valve actually works good. Just adjust it to the outside temperature and it will compensate for the low side reading

[@Ghost-ob1mo]

The yellow hose is "malcolm" because it's in the middle

[@Eli_is_a_Lauver]

Hi I have a question can you tell me if when I do the vacuum to the AC they oil came out too or just the air? thank you

[@e4mafia_tn]

The oil is acting as a lubricant for the compressor. The "freon" or r134a escapes the system as a gas on the low side (blue). If you are getting a liquid then you probably opened the high pressure side (red). To answer your question as simple as possible, no. No, you should not be getting a liquid when evacuating the system.

[@guitargeorge1874]

R-134a is not a CFC. R-134a does not deplete the ozone. However, It does create tropospheric ozone (ground pollution). So still should be properly evacuated.

[@boggy7665]

R-134a is a powerful greenhouse gas. Both an infrared absorber/re-emitter, and long-lived in the atmosphere.

[@travisli-rufus1949]

they said R-12 kills the ozone, that's why they changed to R-134a. Properly evacuate refrigerant, lol. Take a look how many car get into accident and hit by a rock. Do those ppl properly evacuate their refrigerant before the accident?

[@scottgrant6141]

R134a is a greenhouse gas. Pull it out correctly

[@whjerts]

scott Grant the carbon dioxide you breath out is a greenhouse gas, so you better stop breathing.

[@scottgrant6141]

so because we breath carbon dioxide we should just throw R134a into the atmosphere? good one ya muppet.

[@rickpearson2467]

Great video - I have watched at least 10 different videos on how to Recharge my A/C system in my Honda, this video was by far the best! Clear, covered all the bases and explained why you were doing each step! Thank you, nice job!

[@PeterBatah]

Excellent presentation. So good in fact that I have decided against doing this myself. I'll be taking it to my mechanic instead. Thanks for sharing yout time and expertise with us. Much appreciated.

[@akabigo135]

Ok...got my vacuum pump. I'm gonna start to put a vacuum on the system. Wish me luck...

[@TonyButler76]

It should/must be noted that altitude has a large effect on vacuum (inHg) and pressure (PSI) measurements, and what is "normal". Most charts are for "sea level" or 0 ft altitude... At 5000 ft you won't get more than 24 or so on vacuum (29 is literally impossible at 5000 ft). So if you're in Las Vegas at 2000 ft you might get 26 or 27... it's more or less linear. 12000 ft you'd be lucky to see 20 (if you can breathe well enough yourself to even repair cars up there!). Also the static system pressure will be different not only for temperature but for altitude, which is why the labels give you a weight and not pressures. If you find specs from other gearheads on a message board or otherwise who share what their system reads when working awesome, take into account what altitude they were at when the measure was taken, and see if it's different than yours, if so adjust it before trying to match the numbers. Generally and assuming the same ambient temperatures, if you are higher altitude than the reported measurement yours should be higher... if you are lower altitude than the report then yours should be lower. Pressure or vacuum numbers need both temperature and altitude to mean anything.

[@flybyairplane3528]

Tony Butler hello, but sadly your figures are meanlingless, but for automobile, I guess it passes muster vacuum is regardrded in MICRONS , 29” on a gauge does not even begin to be in a VACUUM CHEERS. 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸

[@stepheneasler3959]

YeA u do know this isn't no science class right.(Tony Butler) AKA~THE-TEACH-ALOT

[@ReisterJP]

do yourself a favor and don't use r134a with stop leak.

[@Bobherry]

In residental/commerical/industrial hvac we refer to the small yellow hose as the service hose since you use it to service the system by vacuuming evacuation or adding an refrigerant. Many manifolds will also has a large yellow hose which is just for vacuuming faster as well.

[@stevenlopez9687]

Hey Eric, I appreciate this video and take into consideration that it's 11 years old. I'm sure you have gotten better with automotive AC recharging. Just would like to mention, as a tip, when the system is in a vacuum you could have allowed the refrigerant to enter the system in liquid form on the liquid line side without the compressor running, being that the system only needed that whole can to reach the minimum fill capacity. Obviously when using a larger quantity, a 30lb tank, you would use a scale to weigh in the charge. Overall not bad, and I have learned many things from all your content. Thank you so much bud.

[@purplemartin2233]

shouldn't you purge the service line before?

[@Engineer9736]

Maybe the vacuum is so low, that the air in the service line is too little to make any significant difference. But true, purging it would have been a bit more neat thing to do.

[@TonyButler76]

Yes, except for when you use his method for injecting dye and/or oil, you'd spray it everywhere? Not a significant difference but could lead to contamination, especially if your climate is "jungle". In a desert I'd not be concerned at all.

[@merkur8777]

Yes, you're right. The feed line should be purged before opening the low side valve. Generally there won't be a problem, but.......

[@lexpen9016]

As a certified ac mechanic in r134 & w1234 there is a lot of mistakes in how he is charging the ac. Videos like these is why mechanics like me have steady business after people jack up their compressors. 48* vent temps after a repair and new charge is terrible.

[@jacqueskisling8241]

lex pen I agree 20 years in refrigeration and aircon and mobile refrigeration experience . Tells me he knows something but a lot of nothing

[@marcinmorris]

I have a question. Does the oil also sucked up when you vacuum AC system? How to make sure that there is still the right amount of oil inside? Thanks in advance ;)

[@fredflinstone7939]

It does suck a little out not much, but using a can of freon with oil in it will replace what is sucked out.

[@billycook5688]

The yellow hose is called the gold line cuz it is the most important line.

[@rockytharpjr]

You totally helped me recharge my system after I replaced my leaky condenser. Thanks so much! August in Texas is brutal!

[@BobbyFigliola]

Always Enjoy Erics videos..... old yeah. but on POINT... her in 2021 doin my ole Lexus AC... original compressor ...new high pressure line... dryer.. temp runnin...41 degrees.. im a happy ole man

[@warrenhughes9816]

you forgot to bleed the air out of the suction line before charging

[@mtay65]

uv dye will ooze out if he did that

[@harjeetsashat9314]

It meant moisture went inside... I guess then one should not put dye along with refrigerant.

[@flybyairplane3528]

Harjeet Ashat that is the point to put dye into the system, FYI many years ago. DuPont had a red due already in the REFRIGERANT, their trade name was DYTEL, that was in the 60s on for years . Cheers 🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸

[@jamislow]

I just read in my 2006 GMC factory manual that GM ships their cars and trucks already with dye in the systems... Just a little FYI, I don't know if any other manufactures do this.

[@josho3832]

@@mtay65 poop opinion poop opposition opposition9oooooooooo9oo9oolokklooo on 9koo999oo

[@Mrzizzy69]

Hi Eric, I love your videos! I was wondering if I replace a compressor and added the appropriate oil to the new compressor during install and then evacuated the system, does the oil I added get removed when I evacuate it? And do I then need to add oil to the system when I am recharging it? Thank you.

[@rich1953]

NO

[@joeshmoe781]

No the oil will stay in the system.

[@billycook5688]

Being an old fart I worked on a/c units back in the days when we installed aftermarket a/c units.

[@needhelp2453]

Me too.

[@JohnSmith-mw2hh]

Same here...remember halide detector? Us old farts..😁

[@johnharlan8789]

Hey Eric,Sometimes they call the yellow hose on an a/c manifold gauge set the discharge hose.It's where you discharge and recharge the a/c system.Thanks for your videos,John

[@jadesystem]

Great video with excellent narration. Very informative on the technical side. It never dawned on me to recharge my own vehicle's AC system but I'm a technical DIYer. The manifold gauges are the way to go. Thanks Eric - all the best.