*UPDATED 2024* How To Polish A Car For Beginners - Paint Correction Guide

[@stephenwoodward5780]

Ive been watching John for years and years.... he stirred the beast within (and also Pan the organiser another youtuber)... always always my go to people for information and research... wouldnt consider any others ... top quality basic insight .... well done John

[@FragGile]

To be honest i think FD keeps things much more grounded and less of the you must have the biggest and best

[@AlabamaTree]

⁠I can’t watch Pan, his accent does me. John all the way for me 😎

[@southbrit]

Same here bud. John and Pan. All you need, both deliver excellent no nonsense advice and content. It's a fab rabbit hole to be in!

[@jarmago7750]

New subscriber here and I can tell that John really knows his stuff. Amazing job, John!

[@Admszki555]

Forensic is a very good source. On the other hand I've heard that Pan is not really a professional detailer and what he does is mostly youtube content(sellout) rather than actually being a pro and teaching others . Just wanted to give you a heads up ! 😀

[@sevenbelow7]

This is the kind of video that really helps someone looking to learn the basics.

[@BionicRusty]

Absolutely. And because I’m a weekend warrior, I do like to watch Jon’s vid’s to get a handle on new products and refresh myself of the finer details.

[@karlhulme8014]

I watched your early video on machine polishing a few years back and gave it a go, it was the biggest leap forward in my career cleaning regime I have ever experienced. 👍

[@ForensicDetailing]

cheers karl

[@VantoSaloonWashandGoDetailing]

Just did my partners car the other day. She got her dream car a wee range rover evoque and I told her I'd give it a good going over. Took me 10 hours for decon wash, cut and polish then super resin polished it. Looks great but been a good few years since I did any of that. Forgot how much work it can be but happy with the results. Great Video, thanks for the info.

[@andycorb]

Brilliant, down to earth video John. Thanks for actually running in real time the polish set rather than skipping to the end. You are a legend.

[@milorde7669]

Great video Jon. The one thing you haven't done yet as far as I can tell is the next level up on polishing. I.e. 2 stage. I reckon loads of us following you would love to see the process and product recommendations for a 2 stage process. Still with a DA but the next level up. Great video as ever.

[@YeCannyDaeThat]

The way I stop myself rushing and make sure every panel gets a great thorough job is by just doing 1 panel per day. Really well. In a weeks time the car is done and I know its perfect and I didn't rush it.

[@justfasial01]

That's what I'm planning on doing as well, last couple of times I felt like I rushed it.

[@amateresu6708]

But what about when you have to drive your car every day, you gonna clean and clay it every day ?

[@YeCannyDaeThat]

@@amateresu6708 You can wipe down and clay 1 panel in very little time.

[@harrybrown4626]

I followed your older guide a few years ago to tackle my Mini in one day. Unbelievable results and I learnt so much just from the video. Look forward to doing my Subaru soon!

[@Almost_Made_It]

I’m not a beginner and not a pro. This was very comprehensive and would definitely be a great starting point to anyone new to this hobby

[@pyebs69]

Just started detailing about a month ago, only done family cars so far but have a few people at work asking for me to clean there cars🤙. All weekend I’ve been watching your videos and a few others but your content hits the spot and this video was perfect to watch while I ate breakfast haha. I have this kit saved in my basket for payday on Wednesday. And a huge thanks for not mentioning the price haha. Thanks again and keep it up.

[@justingrainger6627]

Great video john, simple, straightforward, and to the point! My das 6 polisher must be 10 years old and still going strong!

[@ShaneC2788]

So good looking forward to spring time to do my car! Thanks

[@clewis5220]

Great tips Clean it twice is your best tip for me as it’s down to proper prep that I guess makes the most difference cheers!

[@garysmith6994]

Excellent tutorial John

[@RoadmanRides]

just purchased this kit yesterday as a mate recommended this channel and this kit. I can't wait to use it. extremely well priced

[@ForensicDetailing]

Best of luck

[@RoadmanRides]

@ForensicDetailing thank you. Your videos are extremely helpful. I've been binge watching them.

[@iandiplock3338]

Just purchased a dual action machine polisher and a one step polish and this video was a great help with institution on how to perform a polish for a beginner. Will be watching it a few times before I attempt my car. Luckily its not as bad as the car in the video.

[@ForensicDetailing]

thank you ian, any questions mate just make a new comment here on this video and i will see the notification and should be able to help.

[@sadsismint]

As always "We could have gone into more detail about X Y or Z", But this is a really good primer for people with some great tips! Sometimes the hardest thing is to give LESS or enough information, rather than too much and making something way too long to watch/enjoy. Great vid and, as a weekender, this was a good refresher!

[@simonhesbrook1761]

Great video, interesting and straight to the point I like the point you make about improvement not perfection which is achievable for weekend warriors on daily driven cars.

[@xxHydroponicxx]

Everything you’ve said is absolutely spot on! Research & prep is the key for us beginners!

[@gnawty4662]

I’ve literally just finished watching your original video on this topic which was recorded 2(?)years ago, and no me this pops into my feed! 😊love it!

[@ForensicDetailing]

That's awesome!

[@neildonkin1767]

Just done mine but used cartec 5000 with lc blue pads then cartec 12000 with lc black pad put gyeon wax on had all wheels off and polished and put mint rims wax on them. This was a big job and took 3 days to complete

[@TruckerMatty93]

I've been watching you for years and years, you're known for waffling on 😂. But this video was really informative and no waffling! I've shared it with my dad who wants to have a go and I have all the kit so hopefully he will follow your tips too. Keep making awesome vids!

[@SabeTheApple]

That advice on cleaning the pad with a brush is genius. I wish you'd mentioned it in your really old videos haha 😂. But amazing video! Consistent with my knowledge from you before and a good refresher course. Haven't polished my car in 6 years but the first time I did was after watching your videos. The amazing this is that the car still looks amazing since I've only ever washed it myself using the two bucket method. Also that wash method of using touchless again over the car instead of a two bucket wash is a great tip too! Will use that next time. Really need some Bilt hamber tbh!!

[@ForensicDetailing]

thanks Sabe

[@edward877]

Thanks for explaining this, I am new to detailing and have not done a great deal of polishing. A few days ago I thought I would like to cut and polish my van, it's a VW T6, I am now thinking it will be quite a big job. The roof on its own is big and there are lots of recesses in the panels, I think I will have to do sections at a time over a few days. I will keep looking at videos and get all the right equipment together, thanks again, Eddie.

[@ForensicDetailing]

s20 will be ideal mate.

[@edward877]

@@ForensicDetailing Ok thanks, so that's like an all in one compound, that's what I need. I certainly don't want to go over it more than once. 😂👍

[@paulquickmire4140]

Great update Jon, I watched your first tutorial and got everything you suggested. The only things you've missed this time but have covered in other videos are Tar & Glue remover, Fall out remover and after polishing some sort of panel wipe to remove any remaining polishing oils. Other than that another great tutorial 👏👏

[@ForensicDetailing]

indeed yer. suggesting for this one no chem decon just clay. And no panel wipe down after polishing. Put the wax straight on the polished (but buffed) surface. Paste wax does no bond as such to the surface, durability is not really compramised. its really just a starting point.

[@johurulali]

Great video 🤩, Been using green hex with fg400 for over 13 years as a 1 step it's done wonders for me

[@VishalVoraUK]

A very informative video. Thanks J.

[@rossbethell4187]

I notice the speed of your passes has immensely increased since you did your last version of this with the same pads and polish from about 8 years ago. Great video again.

[@ForensicDetailing]

yer I think if you go really slow arm speed it helps with these DA. it really ensures the machine gets a chance to do its thing. So you can slow down your arm speed a bit more than I am here if you want. But these DA's are a bit more powerfull now than a few years back.

[@wasrio1403]

I'd be using iron remover in combination with a decontamination towel, thanks for the video.

[@JetsetFilibuster]

Very well done Sir. I have been watching so many videos trying to gain industry knowledge. Good show chap. Subscribed.

[@ForensicDetailing]

Thanks and welcome

[@chloescars1]

Great video 👏 I'm still a beginner at polishing so will use some of these techniques next time.

[@Dj_Ganty]

Excellent video very well explained and very much appreciated

[@stevewasilow5556]

Really appreciate the lesson Cheers from Pennsylvania

[@imprezaworks]

I've used the Green Hex pad for years, it's ace.

[@MonkeyBabba]

i recently got one of these kits and i have polished my cars for years with cheaper machines, i recently got a hyundai tucson with more tar on it then my local council buys in a year lol, anyways this kit is awesome i had one hiccup though i came back today to recheck jon's videos as its not something i do day in day out and i was wondering why the pads was gunking up so fast and getting warm i have realized unlike the cheap polishers i don't need to put the speed on full lol also the kits a polishing kit not a compounding kit for deeper scratches i also bought the polisher with the extendable arm and 2" pads which i will be using today on the bumpers the last 2 parts i have to do but this kit is awesome and clay bar well im well impressed it left only a little bit of marring unlike the cheaper 3m ones i bought years ago which left tons of it the only thing i need to remember is the s20 is more like a polish i keep using it as a compound but was getting disappointing results where as the maguirs compound is taking out the finger nail scratches near the handles with ease.

[@ForensicDetailing]

You can use S20 for Sanding mark removal but not really with that pad. Yer if pad gunks like that you can do full blast out with hose squash then in drying towel spin out on machine cheers mate

[@ynothump2566]

Thank you so much for this great video and instruction. Just purchased my first ever buffer and will be following your instruction. Much appreciated. Subscribed.

[@ForensicDetailing]

thank you and welcome to the channel.

[@173customdetailing9]

Hi Jon, good video, But I do take issue on:- Decontamination, what about tar and glue remover, and iron fall out remover before claying, Polishing:- All ways wash out a new pad before use, yes I have a lake 4000 pad washer and never use a dry pad what ever one you use, personally I only use scholl products thanks to you (I have tried others but found they don't do what they say ) and yes I have done your course some years ago and I only use a rotary "shock horror " thanks Jon :-)

[@ForensicDetailing]

fair play I hear you m8 but you have to factor in its a beginners guide. TG and FR make claying more effective totally agree. But I just thought to try and get it simple for first timers. polishing. scholl concepts does not work well with any water. It doesnt "take" water into it like some products which are easily water miscible and can benefit from being loosend with some water (meguiars stuff for example). You dont want to be working wet with it in the sense of recycling wet pads and spinning them out. you need bone dry pads at least thats what I do. Ive tried that whole wash after each set thing and its a nightmare and no one I know uses that method (bodyshop or detailer)you will just make a mess. washing a brand spanking new pad is actually a good shout you often find lots of the factory foam from the cutting process in the pad. but a good whack and spin tends to be alright. theres lots of other things missing in this video as well mate. lots of love though my friend.

[@173customdetailing9]

@@ForensicDetailing cheers Jon, you was the one who got me in to this industry( I'm over 60 year young) and thanks for that but I see a lot of people think that it's easy when watching your channel, but to skip want is the most important things is not right as to regards dry pads well ........ask d I y detail man Thanks Jon love what you got me into

[@ForensicDetailing]

60 years young m8!!!! :) your as old as the women you feel. That what I say!

[@173customdetailing9]

@@ForensicDetailing and to that my wife is 17 years younger than me :-)

[@willmould3971]

Greetings from Texas. Thank you for posting this video. Very helpful! Cheers!

[@ForensicDetailing]

thanks Will greetings to you and the beutifull state of texas.

[@DryUrEyesMate]

I did a vw yesterday and as you detailers know German cars have a very hard clear coat and I had to use the s2 extreme cut with a wool cutting pad to remove the light scratches with some 2000 wet sanding, end result was a mirror finish and only took me 8hr.

[@ForensicDetailing]

s2 black you mean? did you finish it out afterwards with foam and a finishing polish?

[@noofynumbskull]

Recently brought d9 nice little tool not much vibration which is great for arthritic hands , quiet good resluts

[@johnhopkins7614]

Regarding paint thickness, have you ever done a review of paint thickness gauges? Useful to have before and after measurements. Also detects vehicles panels that have be repaired.

[@henrylynch9437]

Hey! What are your thoughts on DIY detail polishing system?

[@gibbolp7618]

Another brilliant video. Thank you John

[@ForensicDetailing]

thx u m8

[@milesgreen9705]

Thanks really good, perfect to pique my interest.

[@BigHeroSix-123]

Amazing vid John! You should become a salesman... I've just spent £350 at In2Detailing 🤣

[@anthonyworthington6495]

I detailed my van and then put on a wax,but it streaked. I did not think it was that hot, but I can not get the streak out will it come up with a polisher it's only my bonnet 😊

[@MedicalNeptune]

Great video! Do you need to apply a panel prep before putting on the wax and after you polish? Thanks!

[@ForensicDetailing]

not really no a wax does not bond as such. sealant or ceramic yes

[@josmith3565]

Hi John, Very Informative. Same again please for piano black B pillars !

[@ForensicDetailing]

We done pillars m8. It's the only honest one on the net. The rest don't want to show you the results peoperly

[@NickLaslett]

This is such a great concept and I really enjoyed the video. I’m just at this stage, but want to take advantage of all the 18v Makita batteries I have, so will be going with their polisher. What struck me is that Bilt Hamber need to develop an application friendly reasonably priced Ceramic coating. It was really disappointing to see you pull out the wax after all the effort with the correction. I appreciate that waxes are a bit more forgiving for a beginner, but surely wax is dead in 2024. From all the videos I’ve watched, I felt like giving Gyeon Mohs a try as the coating has a very obvious sweating effect to show it can be buffed off.

[@ForensicDetailing]

I'm not sure if a beginner will want ceramic coating M8 but maybe a sealant? Ds wax will beat most sealants on durability.

[@mrjosephDJ]

Thank you so much for this. I’m about to give this a try this week

[@glintautodetailing830]

Nice one, John. Thanks.

[@secretbrad9259]

What a cracking video thank you

[@fester.]

Looks good. I’m just getting into polishing. Why would I buy this over a mcguires. Thanks

[@ForensicDetailing]

Cheaper

[@jamesrees8876]

Hi, really good video. Should I be using panel wipe before applying Fusso? Thqnks

[@ForensicDetailing]

I will get killed for saying it but if you have just polished the car. I would put the fusso on. other wise your panel wiping and breaking down all the polishing oils. In the theory you are getting a better bond. But in reality I think you get a good chunk of the polishing oils up but not all of it.. I suspect you would need to wash down a car with hot water and detergent, then dry and then panel wipe pre to give the perfect squeekly clean panel for the sealant to bond to. ive done some testing on this I need to do more testing. I will do more.

[@yazctr]

Do u have a link to the pad cleaning brush plz John, Thanks 🙏🏼🙏🏼

[@ForensicDetailing]

I dont make rupes claw tool

[@mushymi5680]

Very educational video, appreciated.

[@patfalvey30]

@Forensicdetailingchannel. Brilliant information for a totally new bloke trying to have pride in his motor. I don't have a garage, but I do have high walls that should keep out most of the wind. Obviously, my question is, as a newbie would I be able to polish my car outside. If so what extra precautions do I need to take. Maybe it isn't possible? Great work thank you for all the valuable information

[@ForensicDetailing]

Yes m8 pick low wind day with cloud cover and no rain and it will be fine

[@gabberbart6595]

You should do a review of the "new" menzerna Cut Force pro. Used it saturday. Great product

[@MischaGielen]

Very, very nice update. I started on the hood of the car, but was pretty disappointed with the result. I probably just made a mistake somewhere in the process. Is it possible to determine the "agressiveness" of the pad by the colour? If yes, please eleborate the order. My car looks pretty mich the same as the Audi you have there (VW Golf 6 2009 black).

[@1963wattie]

Great video John, and very informative. What advice would you give for doing camper van, with graphics on it.

[@ForensicDetailing]

be carefully cutting over any stickers or vinyl. soft pad and finishing polish you can get away with but sometimes with cutting compounds you will damage the vinlys... so polish around stuff. get a mini polishing for the tighter bits mate

[@bobcambridge8870]

Hi I machine polish Audi vehicles every day of the week, the clear coat is rock hard Ive not found a sponge pad that works yet , and get far better results with a wool/ microfibre pads, using 3 D 510 compound completely dustless

[@ForensicDetailing]

spot on yer and this was heavily scratched up audi paint. coarse wool maybe even 2 sets cut and good finish polish with foam. This one really was also viable for wet sand or matting compound But really the car was just a means to demo the polishing for beginners video. Good improvement. once it was polished and waxed it did look pretty sharp from a few meters back.

[@bobcambridge8870]

@@ForensicDetailing yes I appreciate that you did it for beginners mate, 👍 sometimes takes a whole day for me to get looking as they should be, but as I said I’ve tried many times with foam pads just get to hot and soft, 3 d wool and microfibre work well also half the cost of the Rupes similar pads .

[@gr0wler147]

It’s always great to go back over the detailing process that you inspired me with a few years ago. I think there is a tendency to rush the polishing process because it can up to a day to do a car correctly. One question… I am using Autoglym HD wax, and on top of this i apply autoglym rapid ceramic spray as a sort of detailing spray. Am I wasting my time?

[@sbuzz5889]

great learn ur a good teach

[@theredscourge]

a water spot remover step, or leaving some all purpose cleaner or any car-safe acidic snow foam on it for a few mins, might be a good idea for cars that have not been maintained well, or which have been regularly hose washed with plain tap water without following up with a rinseless wash or drying aid. Also, clay is out, synthetic clay towels are in - they typically don't mar the paint and sometimes you can use an iron remover as a clay lube with it!

[@ForensicDetailing]

they all marr paint. or the act of pulling contamination off the surface and dragging over the paint under pressure marrs up the paint. Clay also pulls contmination more thoroughly than the synthentic stuff. The first time you need to clay off overspray you will notice this. But yer clay bar takes longer so I do like having both. synthetic clay media is being sold because of margins. You can buy the synthetic cloths direct from manufacturers for about 3 pounds a unit and some are now reselling those for 20-40 pounds. Clay you can get for 10 pounds for 200g. Using an iron remover with clay requires some technique changes or your rubbing on the FR lube before its had a chance to disolve the oxide layer of the fallout. Its generally better to pre treat the entire car with FR so its removed the embedded FE203 layer completly. then when you go in and clay the iron thats still remaining (note FR does not disolve iron just the oxide) is then easier to remove, so you get more off with less effort. This is quicker, more effective and more efficient and you dont have to breath in all the stinky FR when claying.

[@theredscourge]

@@ForensicDetailing Tried to reply but it gets insta-removed. Yvan at DIY Detail claims you can do 1 spray of his iron remover on the panel and 1 spray on the towel. If valid, it would save a lot of iron remover. I ordered a super cheap clay towel and had to throw it out as it was some hard plastic trash with sharp corners, but the more expensive ones are a lot better.

[@theredscourge]

In theory a clay bar or towel should be able to remove certain sized pieces of iron, maybe using iron remover as a clay lube makes the remaining iron more likely to be dissolved or dislodged after the rinse.

[@ForensicDetailing]

they dont disolve iron. they disolve iron oxide fe2o3. When you see the purple bleed thats the TGA reacting with the FE2o3 to form iron theoglycolic oxide which is a purple oxide thats soluable in water. as soon as you see purple the product is literally shrinking the outer rust layer which shrinks the embedded ferrous particles and they are easier to remove. About 5 years ago we talked about the pros and cons of using FR as clay lube. Generally its not done a lot for the reason I gave you but sure lots of guys might like to use it as clay lube for various reasons.

[@theredscourge]

@@ForensicDetailing Makes sense, thanks!

[@POBMTB]

Hey Followed you for a while now .. love the content This vid inspired me to have a go on my octavia and the results arent perfect but theyre night and day .. super happy with it .. used diff products but the same das 9 and technique .. clear and easy to follow directions .. cheers bud👍🏼👍🏼 Quick question ? Is there away to fix gloss black trim thats scratched .. theyre not deep but look pretty grim in the sun .. mainly door trims and my centre console panel

[@ForensicDetailing]

you can polish gloss trim yes. some gloss trims can be bare plastic some can be clearcoated. so just be carefull if its clearcoated.

[@gnawty4662]

Is there a reason you use Wax after a polish vs a ceramic coating?

[@ForensicDetailing]

See coating negatives video m8

[@gnawty4662]

@@ForensicDetailing will do thank you!

[@coachBux]

some great tips cheers🙌

[@RS_Frankie]

Another fantastic video John. Once you have corrected the paintwork and applied rupes uno advanced, what process is then needed at a later stage to either top up the rupes uni advance or change to another protection, such as ceramic. Obviously don’t want to keep chopping away at the clear coat. Thanks for giving us all the information and confidence to improve our detailing skills 👍🔥🔥

[@ForensicDetailing]

yer so then you have a big choice of how to maintain. If you see my recent video on all the available LSP and their pros and cons (like best of the best title a few weeks back). But yes wash it carefull and put a topper on it like collinite beadcoat when you want to for example.

[@RS_Frankie]

@@ForensicDetailing Thanks John, much appreciated. 👍🔥

[@victoryensured7137]

Hi there John! A good video, I'm not a beginner but I'm faaar away from being a pro, still I learned something watching this, always good to go through the fundamentals! I have a question though, when I polish after 3 passes (I use two machines a 9mm and a 21mm the problem is on either one) I always get a,,dry polish" left no matter if I do 2 passes or 4, no matter the speed (I use 4 on 9mm, 3 on 21mm) I used different polishes (sonax ultimate cut, koch h9, zvizzer hc9000 - mainly cutting compounds) but i always use the same pads (NAT blue cutting pads) maybe it's the pads? I rather change my pad and clean them at the end of work, usually 5-6 pads on a car. Some help would be great thank you!

[@scope5545]

Good video pal, do you ever have to measure the clear coat thickness

[@ForensicDetailing]

yes mate if your doing it professionally you should really

[@Playingwithsettings]

What are a few S20 alternatives? Something perhaps for a car without that much damage? Anything from Koch or Menzerna you would recommend?

[@ForensicDetailing]

Ok mate so Scholl 20 black or Koch F6 or Sonax Perfect Finish or Menz 2200 or Rupes DA fine those are all really good. Menz and rupes I think are a little bit cheaper. Angel Wax regenerate also very cheap is a good shout.

[@scgordy1212]

Great video, Jon! Do you have and recommendations for polishers, etc. for those of us in the states?

[@ForensicDetailing]

in the USA mate you can still get the chinese polishers. theres will be a DAS6 pro or DA9 equivalent the clue is the 9mm offset and the machine specs. If they match then it will be the same machine.

[@blazinmonsta]

Love this! Thanks so much! Got some bird poo etching on my car, you think going at it was something like this would be best or is there steps that can be taken before hand?

[@ForensicDetailing]

Can try m8

[@MissionKid]

What’s better to use as a stage 4? Ceramic beading or wax?

[@ForensicDetailing]

Ceramic coating is the option for durability if you dont enjoy the burden of maintaining the cars finish. If you enjoy looking after the car then get the wax on mate.

[@stephenjames6534]

I have that polisher after watching your video about 2 years ago and does a brilliant job at a great price. When you decontaminate, would you use fallout remover before claying or the other way round. I normally use koche chemie M6, then M2 and had a great finish with them. Im tempted to try something different but koch have never failed to impress me. Thanks jon👍

[@sn3prwarrior]

Usually, fallout remover and tar before claying if needs be so there's less work for the clay to do.

[@stephenjames6534]

@@sn3prwarrior 👍thankyou

[@tombromhead9213]

The Bilt hamber clay it does say water is enough for lubing the surface quite cost effective

[@guppylove7200]

What's the best technique for finishing 😅

[@ForensicDetailing]

soft pad mate and soething like scholl S40 or Menz 4500 and a nice consistent set letting the machine work the polish. nothing like a car that gets finished properly. thats the name of the game.

[@guppylove7200]

@ForensicDetailing Cheers John!!

[@jonnyb4271]

You’ve missed the chemical decon John 🤔plus Bilt hamber recommend a damp applicator with speed wax. Great video as always.

[@ForensicDetailing]

I think if 7 are starting out 7 can skip and just clay

[@jonnyb4271]

@@ForensicDetailing I have no idea what this means but I’m sure you’re right somehow 🤦‍♂️🤣

[@MiteshParmar]

Great timely video. Thanks. I read somewhere the hog hair brush can scratch paint? I assume not then?

[@ForensicDetailing]

I guess anything is possible. cheap ebay rattle can clearcoat maybe.

[@MiteshParmar]

@@ForensicDetailing thank for the fast reply! I've got a veletpro one so hope it's all good then. 👍🏾

[@MuahMan]

Hmmm. I have the orange (heavy cutting) and black (finish polishing) Hexlogic pads, hope they don't cut too much.

[@ForensicDetailing]

they dont mate the orange is a soft pad trust me. you can use the orange with the scholl S20 no problems. even the CG yellow pad is pretty soft

[@salbelushi9152]

Great video John, thank you for step by step process. Do you recommend a chemical decontamination prior to the clay bar step?

[@ForensicDetailing]

Generally yes m8 the more contaminated the more benefit

[@christopherlucas3563]

Love the vids,because of you ive spent a fortune ,however how would you approach a ribbed roof,Mitsubishi Outlander.?

[@ForensicDetailing]

3 inch rotary prolly gonna be the best on a nice low speed. if its a workhorse how good does the roof need to be? if its like a minter just take your time make sure you got good access.

[@Thegobstopper61]

What's your thoughts on clay bar before polishing.

[@ForensicDetailing]

yer mate you virtually always need to clay. very very rare you dont need to clay. but always test the paint first behind the front wheels is good place to check.

[@amerrushdi5077]

thanks ......good work.......

[@chrisml91]

John I’ve a mk7 golf (Lapiz blue) quite heavily swirled but not as bad as that Audi. I’m gonna two stage it. I’ve got LC microfibre pads and Koch chemie heavy cut for compound first step and m3 micro cut with LC black pads for second step. I’m just wondering; How many passes should I do while cutting? I’m thinking two slow passes then buff off and check and do another two if needed. Also should I cut the whole car and then polish / finish afterwards or cut a panel and then finish straight after? Wouldn’t I need a fresh pad to not mix the compound and finish polishes or is it ok just brushing the pad and then applying the finishing polish? Not 100% sure but I’m think Jim from whitedetails will compound a panel and then finishing polish it after from watching a lot of his videos over the years.

[@ForensicDetailing]

this is down to personal preference. normally 4 passes horizontal---veritical----hor---vert... stop. H9 is fine like that. but most of the break down will have happened quite quickly. but you can work h9 for 2-3 mins if you want to. so you can do 2 slow passes instead. normally you would compound the entire car then refine it mate.

[@chrisml91]

@@ForensicDetailing Thanks John. Will see how I get on.

[@outcastfpv]

Great video Thanks. I need to buff my white car as the white on the left side of it is kind of yellow, will that compound bring up the colour again if you go deep enough or is it just mainly for cutting into light scratches on the clear coat?

[@ForensicDetailing]

It depends m8. If it's the clear coat at fault then buffing will help. If it's paint below then buff can't help. Test set m8 is best thing

[@outcastfpv]

@@ForensicDetailing Thanks, ill give it a try anyway

[@HPAcustomriflesandcerakote]

I like to use 3D Nano Pail Super Pre-Soak prior to correction. It's a super concentrated shampoo without wax that's made to remove sealants and waxes. Also decontamination with clay is very important. I mix my own lube with a little pre-soak with a litlle 91% isopropyl alchohol then rest water all in a spray bottle

[@ForensicDetailing]

I go to the 3d main site and try and find their pails. Comes up with an error. rest of the resellers when I go to find the product ALL I WANT to know is concentration. THATS IT. best I can find is this Foam Guns - Foam Cannons Pre-mix ¼ teaspoon per 32 ounce or 1 liter reservoir Spray bottle Pre-mix ¼ teaspoon per 32 ounce or 1 liter spray bottle ANYONE that buys a concentrate all they want to know are correct usage ratios for different application systems. when I cant find the information I need I dont tend to buy. I got excited when these pails first came out because they are up my street. but when I eventually did all the maths the pails are not competative price wise with what we have in the UK.

[@brunoramos6756]

Hi John, love Ur channel been following for long time, just a quick question as for this paint correction guide, can one do all the steps and just do the bonnet for example and then at a later stage do the full process again and do other parts of the vehicle if that makes sense ? Question due to time and weather constraints , was thinking of getting to the step of clay bar the full car and doing bonnet up to the wax step, and then at later stage full steps without clay bar for the rest of the car ? keep up the great work mate

[@ForensicDetailing]

You can buy not ideal mo

[@VIDEOHEREBOB]

I change wash mitts after cleaning each section of the vehicle. This way the wash water never sees a dirty wash mitt. Yes, I like to have a number of wash mitts.

[@timmumau5942]

Have you tried dampening the pad then adding a polish??

[@ForensicDetailing]

Scholl S20 is not designed to be used with water. Generally speaking you don't want to introduce water to the polishing process with most abrasives. I know some you can.

[@timmumau5942]

@ Sorry, what I meant to say was, dampening with Rinseless wash

[@ForensicDetailing]

yer so rinseless wash mate is basically water and some surfactant. the scholl polish dont not work with water so I would not recomend washing or wetting the pad personally.

[@timmumau5942]

@ thanks

[@t14ggo79]

I've just recently bought your bundle kit, I look forward to using it! Can I do the whole car with the 5.5inch pad or should I invest in some 3imch pads? If so which pads would you recommend. Thanks

[@ForensicDetailing]

you can do the whole lot with the 5.5 mate. taking the plate off is a pain in the aris. And the machine is balanced more for the 5.5. But yes sometimes the smaller plate is better. But I think for starting out stick with the 5.5. later on invest in mini polishers if you get the detailing bug :) take your time and try not to speed up. bordem does kick in. but maintain this ninja like mindset that all polishing sets will be done consistently untill the final set. Do that and you will get a good result.

[@t14ggo79]

Thanks for the reply! Funnily enough I tackled the whole car this morning. Got myself a 75mm flex purple pad and done all the bits I could with that then changed over to the 5.5 and did the rest. Results were epic! Thanks once again for the informative videos. 👌🏻

[@jamiesimpson9159]

This is something iv been gearing myself up to do soon. Just bought the in2 da8 a couple days ago just need to get sorted with pads. Been trying to get the zvizzer pads but there largely out of stock at most retailers, so may get these hex logic ones. Only thing is I don’t think time is on my hands to wash, decon and polish the whole car in a day. So my way round this is iv decided I will work panel by panel. Wash and decon a panel then polish that same panel straight after. I don’t see any issues with this method, do you?

[@andygowing9677]

John. Great vid. You referred to another video on how not to go through the clear coat or was it how many times you can polish before damage is caused. Im about to take the plunge and buy a DA machine polisher but wondering how many times I can polish my car before I reach the clear coat limit? Its not damaged like the one in your video so I guess 4 passes would be fine. I guess ince a year is more than adequate but what is the limit? With a reasonably starting paint condition is it worth investing in a machine polisher if you are restricted on the number of polishes a car can take? Thanks and I hope that makes sense.

[@ForensicDetailing]

all here mate kzbin.info/www/bejne/eGOVeYpugseWY6c

[@andygowing9677]

Cheers John. I have digested. So I could maybe do a proper cut on Amy given car perhaps 3 times in its lifetime if needed but an annual wash, decon , clay and fine cut/ finishing polish with a machine once a year could be done many many times? Is that right?

[@enisozdemirli]

Did I miss the panel prep stage? Or it is forgotten?

[@ForensicDetailing]

yer just polish then wax in this guide mate. I think we discussed it briefly why. A wax does not bond so it will make less difference to durability.

[@lejohnbrames]

is it safe to move the polisher over edges ? like the one on the hood

[@ForensicDetailing]

generally less but dont pressure on them and dont polish up and down on the lines. and dont wet sand them obviously.

[@Antaire]

Use a dedicated Tar remover. Use dedicated Iron remover then clay bar as this will last longer .

[@ForensicDetailing]

trying to keep it a bit simple but totally agree sometimes chemical decon prior to claying makes it faster and more effective.

[@McKav]

This is excellent thanx

[@lxstmax]

is it fine to use koch kemie protector wax in the foam cannon after polishing as a wax or no?

[@ForensicDetailing]

after polishing mate. you probably should put down whats called a baseline sealant. a more heavy duty product. the koch PW is more a fast maintainance product. you dont want to get the car wet again after polishing it your nearly home and dry and finished at this point :)

[@lxstmax]

@@ForensicDetailing thanks that’s what I wanted to know if Koch Kemie can do the same. If it doesn’t then yeah I’ll use the baseline sealant

[@yushagoliath2806]

Great video, explains everything a beginner like myself needs to know. Just 1 question, is a toothbrush soft enough to remove the extra polish from the pad?

[@ForensicDetailing]

yer its fine, not as good as the claw tool but its fine.

[@yushagoliath2806]

@@ForensicDetailing okay thanks

[@yushagoliath2806]

MUST i apply a sealant or wax to my car after polishing

[@ForensicDetailing]

Not must but should really m8

[@haikuancheoh2418]

thanks jon, curious, assuming im going to clay entire car, fallout removal is not required?