Fork oil seal replacement - Yamaha Tenere 700 -

Hi guys!
- EDIT -
I misspoke at one point.
624ml oil per fork leg.
85mm air gap
Top cap is Rebound
Bottom have compression adjustment.
Some misspoken things, terminology etc, and also mentioned 426ml, should be 624ml of oil
Please read the service manual for further instructions, some text edit I did, did not come on the final video :/
-
Made a video on how to replace oil seals, bushings and servicing you T700 forks.
Special tools needed depends on how far you want to go.
Just for seals and bushings a fork seal driver is a must.
If piston and or the rebound valve needs to come out, the. I recommend that you get a piston removal tool (Rally Raid has them).
You could manage with a impact wrench, but it’s not always it’s a 100% success.
Other tools that’s nice to have is.
Measuring cup and air gap tool.
Hope this helps in getting you more confident in trying it out.
If in doubt, hand it to a specialist :)
I’m no expert, but it’s not that complicated.
Cheers
Marcus

[@NomadSweden]

Fantastic walk through! I would never attempt this alone without this video. Good work!

[@everythingtenere]

Thanks Robert!!

[@pat18141]

Great video!! Had my laptop in the garage listening and pausing. Thank you.

[@LookattheBiggerPic]

Finally someone addressing this - though I would have liked to have seen the reassembly with oil! Much thanks for all you do!

[@everythingtenere]

Glad to help!! Try to make videos of stuff I can’t find on KZbin. Started with the preload spacers lol, putting together the cartridge kit install now. Really need a laptop to sort all the video editing on 🤯

[@everythingtenere]

Sorry about the no oil fill. But as i was going to replace the cartridge kit, I couldn’t do the full assembly with fill. I would say it’s very very easy on the oem one. Everything goes in from the top :), then just work the piston up and down until air bubbles stop. Then measure the gap and install spring guide, nut, spring and finally the cap.

[@SPARKYMAN1979]

Skipped the hardest part! Keeping the piston/dampening rod assembly up after installing the spring so you can install the cap. I just did mine last night on Ténéré 1200 (very similar) and that was the harder part by far.

[@scottmoss8823]

Thanks for the video. Question, you fringed was in the way. Do I measure the air gap from the very top of the threads or the gold lip just below it? Thank you again!

[@markphillips9651]

Great video, helped me massively and I've now done one side successfully. Unfortunately I missed the correction about the amount of oil and only ordered 2 x 500ml, so now I have to wait for more to be delivered before I do the other side!! Really helpful video, everything comes apart and goes back together exactly as you describe. I've never done oil seals before so this gave me the confidence to have a go.

[@everythingtenere]

That’s awesome 😊 sorry about the oil, I always write corrections in the text about the video. Wasn’t able to re edit it, I guess I could download it from KZbin and fix it now, when I get time 🤪

[@tonillorenslloret6085]

Hello good afternoon, thank you very much for the video and for how well you explain it step by step, thank you

[@nomad8160]

very nice and clever video now is everything clear 👍👍👍👍👍👍

[@samhill3496]

I like this. I have the Ohlins internals to put in this winter. Have some tools bought should be able to do it. Changed several since the 1970's. Yes, I had a pet dinosaur.

[@everythingtenere]

😂 hahaha Check the other RallyRaid open cartridge kit installations. I have one full install, might cover more of the process for you 💪🏻

[@skeelo221]

For the washer: I normally do it opposite with the curved portion touching the oil seal. That leaves the other flat side of the washer to mount flush the machined flat surface on the fork tube. Likely not a big deal but that is what I do.

[@everythingtenere]

I seen it booth way around, I just did it how it was from stock. But yea, doesn’t really make a big difference I think 😇

[@alainmaurice1271]

Thank you very much for showing how to do this. Very good video.

[@everythingtenere]

Thank you, you are wellcome.

[@grimjokerwhitey]

Best video guide for sure!

[@samiounasti6638]

Good video! Thanks!

[@everythingtenere]

You are welcome 🤗

[@deekox1]

18:23 Wild two-stroker appears ;)

[@MackAdventures]

Good job

[@everythingtenere]

Thanks 😊

[@davel1898]

Thank you for the tutorial. Do you happen to have the length of the dampening adjuster rod (mm). I am in the process of fixing a shops poor install of my Ktech ORVS kit and it states to shorten the adjustment rid by 1.50mm. We are trying to check if that has been performed but I don’t have the stock measurement to compare

[@everythingtenere]

Sorry, i Do not 🙁

[@whatupg1]

Thankyou so much. If just replacing springs I assume it is not necessary to remove fork seal if it's ok and is oil necessary to remove if it is in good condition?

[@everythingtenere]

Correct, just replace spring. Off with the cap, easy peesy. Have another video on that with forks still attached to the bike

[@streetmachine8211]

Good video 👍

[@everythingtenere]

Thanks

[@1jonblaze]

Hi. I’ve got a knocking coming from my front right fork on my tenere 700 I can hear it when I go over bumps in the road I can also feel it with my hand in the fork leg itself when stationary rocking the bike backwards & forwards. I’ve checked the triple clamp & tightened the head stock nut & I’ve also added pre load spacers in the tops of the fork legs & still I have this knocking noise. If anyone has or knows about this please feel free to share your information. Thanks

[@everythingtenere]

Hi Jon! Sound like you might have a loose outer bushing or something. Safest would to have a shop look at it.

[@1jonblaze]

@@everythingtenere a lose outer bush on the inside of the fork? Possible that it could cause the noise. I’m in contact with rally raid uk to see if we can come up with a way of sorting it

[@everythingtenere]

@@1jonblaze so it is on one of their cartridge kits? It could be one of the seal bushings yea, or oil seal that is moving etc (have you checked so the clip is seated under the dust cap?

[@1jonblaze]

@@everythingtenere no it’s not it’s the standard fork leg never been opened. I contacted rally raid as I stay hours away from the nearest garage. I was thinking I might post the forks to them to see if they could help and possibly add a cartridge kit.

[@MsLordbear]

Great video but in the beginning you stated we need 624 ml of oil but during the reassembly you staye that 426ml is need. Which is it

[@everythingtenere]

In the description I wrote 426ml 😬, I was to late to notice the mistake, I think I mentioned in the video as well, or put in a text. Correct is 426

[@dzieburs]

Manual states 624 cm3 per leg

[@tomlee3426]

you said on first 624ml fork oil but after 426ml which is correct.

[@everythingtenere]

624

[@MsIosu]

Hello, the oil is sae 4w?

[@everythingtenere]

5w i think it is

[@michaelsverksted7658]

Hi In this video you say 624ml but in the end you say it is 426ml. What is the correct level?

[@everythingtenere]

624ml is the correct one. Check the video description, I posted all the correct things there 😊

[@michaelsverksted7658]

Thanks 😊 I'm considering buying the open cartridge fork kit-rrp 616 myself, is it the one you have? Great video, ceep up the good work.

[@everythingtenere]

@@michaelsverksted7658 yes, the RallyRaid open one

[@Czyzu183]

Hello. What type of fork oil do you use?

[@everythingtenere]

Yamaha G10 suspension oil in the oem setup, im not sure what it compares too. Now I have a RallyRaid cartridge, so I use different one.

[@Czyzu183]

@@everythingtenere I come from Poland and you can't buy this oil anywhere. I wonder if there is any replacement?

[@everythingtenere]

@@Czyzu183 any Yamaha dealer in Poland should have it, but if I’m not wrong G10 stands for 10w weight oil. So any good quality 19w for oil should be good. Off the road .de have some oils, otherwise any motorcycle store should have a good selection of racing for oil

[@Czyzu183]

@@everythingtenere ok. Thanks for help 🙂