Yeah. There’s a couple was to do this or maybe improve the method.

I think you’re going to love them. I use mine everyday when I know I’m going to be running tools. Even just an impact driver it helps so much. And listening to a podcast with the active hearing is pretty cool. You can still hear if someone says something to you while your listening to something

Yeah you can do that. They should make a PVC threaded end you can put on your PVC pipes and then connect your flex lines from the water source to the unit.

I could do some videos on the metal conduit and boxes. But unfortunately I don’t currently have any projects with that coming up. There are some connections to transition over. They may be able to accept the same types of arms and conduit with the nut and washers. I don’t know if I’ve seen a plastic to metal transition video out there. Could be a good one to do

Thank you ! I really appreciate that

I would upgrade both honestly. If you have two I’d assume you have two doorbells ? Or two different things in your home using the transformers? So I’d upgrade both or just identify which one is being used for the doorbell you’re trying to upgrade and just upgrade that one.

@FortKnoxCo wow,thank you so much. I'll try that

Yes. It’s metered. You set it for your water hardness level and your gallons usage you’d like it to regenerate at.

Thx

Technically the ground bar and the neutral bar are “bridged” or connected at your main panel. So yes they are both touching the same bar at the end of it all. At this sub panel the two are not “bonded” or bridged. Code says the sub panel should not have the ground and neutral bonded. Only at the main panel. The ground is a redundant connection making sure if the neutral for some reason fails the ground can let the power go where it needs to. So even with the breakers you may see a push on connection with a pigtail and it’s just redundancy

Thank you 🤙🏼

Cutting through the drywall is very easy. Obviously this is way different if your dealing with stucco or solid concrete

Mine just had speed 1 or 2. And the clutch is over all the way to “drill”. Like not set on a number but full strength. You need it not to stop on you and hight speed

That’s awesome! We love ours. In my opinion one of the best for the money for sure

Your very welcome 🤙🏼

I could make that I guess. This video was mainly how to wire and install the service box and the wiring at panel. What would you want to see in the part 2?

Yeah I’m not a fan of the forced subscription models. If you’re buying a doorbell for a couple hundred bucks it should have the features you were advertised. And only have to pay for cloud storage. Not to pay to “unlock” it’s capabilities

There was only a couple spots where they had rebar vertical a few feet and come concrete around it. But since the two sides weren’t tied in the whole wall pushed over with some force. I still had to cut the rebar off to get it out since it was tied into the foundation that ran across.

Your welcome

It is pressurized by what I believe is the water pressure in your lines? But it may have some type of small pump in there to clear the line so water doesn’t sit in it after it runs its drain cycle. It does pump out a lot of water but nothing I have seen a regular drain handle. Usually the laundry drain for your washer is perfect because it has about a 24” drop to the p-trap. Don’t can handle it. I haven’t seen what it would do in a regular sink and small drop to a p-trap.

@ thank again

Not really. More of and install video and review. This isn’t sponsored, but I wish it was. Wouldn’t mind getting a free doorbell

You are correct. This is just the first step in going from your 2” main drain down to your 1.5”.

You don’t need a chime if you’re using a video type doorbell. Most video doorbells show you how to bypass the chime. The power just needs to go straight to the doorbell technically. And it will either notify you on your phone and/or connect to a plunging chime that it comes with. All through the WiFi.

So you can set the 4 pin code on the switch but can’t find the 4 pins on the remote itself?

Thank you ! I appreciate that 🤙🏼

That’s great to hear. Happy I could be of help

Thank you I appreciate that. Yeah I really do enjoy these earbuds. I throw them in on the regular now when I know I’m gonna be using almost any tool.

That could very well be true. I’ve seen aquasure at Home Depot and more commonly at Amazon. But not 100% sure on if their resin is any different or not. I felt like my water was softer with the aquasure system compared to the one I had previously at our last house. But either way being able to install it yourself is gonna save you a bunch of money 🤙🏼

No. It softens the main water line before the water splits off to the cold feed and hot water feed to the heater.

Thanks. Yeah I hear what your saying. I’ve explained this a few times in the comments. But all the sheathing you see missing a stud is just me trying to save some time and not make a bunch of special cuts, but in areas that aren’t marked to be shear walls. There were about 5 sections on the build scheduled at shear and they all lang on studs and are nailed to a specific schedule. I went above and beyond with just sheeting the whole structure and not filling in anywhere with foam board to support the stucco. I sheared the entire structure but did have a couple spots where it landed inbetween and I just left it. I applied some blocking in some spots. But on the shear wall sections it was all solid and blocked out. Wouldn’t have been able to pass my insulations if it wasn’t. 🤙🏼 I appreciate the feedback. I know everyone seems those floating ends and it makes them cringe

It records as long as the movement is happening I believe or during the ring and while there is someone there. As far as how long does it store I think it’s as long as it can until your memory starts to over write.

You’re very welcome !

Just depends on if you can get a company to Come out and take your job on. Sometimes it’s might not be worth them to do it cost wise. For small projects this may be an option. It’s a premium for sure but does work pretty well.

The wire in the wall supplying power will most likely be a 12/2 ( yellow casing) with your black, white and bare ground. The power coming off the transformer is a very small gauge, usually an 18 gauge / bell wire / low voltage. It can handle the voltage/amperage coming off the transformer. It’s downgrading the power source essentially and giving you enough but not too much for that doorbell

💯 neva eva eva

It would be just as hard if not harder to run a wire through a rear knock out than a closer to the front pass through. Obviously this method is not to code. You could almost consider it satire content to the educated electrician. Surprisingly there are a LOT of KZbin electricians on here. So I’m thankful for that. I appreciate the feedback

Yes. If you use the battery powered version you could stick this anywhere you want essentially.

@FortKnoxCo thank you! Do you have the link in your bio?

@ there is a link for the battery powered version in the video description. 👍🏼

True. It would be better to just use a copper 90 turn Down and stub out. I was just playing around with options and anything other than the bracket I had tried.

I agree. I’ve seen these AFCI breakers pop under regular load for no reason and then not….and then pop again just because it was a different day. Pretty annoying.

If your home is plumbed for the softener water loop there should be a connection to a smaller diameter pipe that’s meant for the drain line. If you’re not seeing one or need to add one you need to locate the nearest drain line in an adjacent wall hopefully. If you don’t have a drain line in a shared wall that you can run a line to then you may need to explore other options. Running a drain line to a utility sink drain? Run a line up the wall and through the ceiling and to the drain line near by and drop it into that. My line in the wall is not next to or above a drain line the line actually runs up the wall, across the attic about 10’ and then Down into the laundry room and drops into the same drain pipe the washing machine drains into. This is a very common place to have your water softener drains into into

Technically, that is correct. Most homes are built with two different power sources going up to the ceiling for the traditional set up of the older style fans that have a mechanical holster string light and fan function. But nowadays fans come with remotes and it’s all controlled through some type of receiver. So the fan speed and fan light functions are adjusted digitally. So you only need one power source and the remote function controls the rest. If you want to have the two switches control the light and fan separate separately, you would need to purchase an older style fan, which they do still make that has mechanical upholster strings. Because all you’ll be able to control is the on and off not the intensities of each. But that second power source is not of no use. You now have a wire in the ceiling that is controlled at the wall that you could decide to later on add something too. Such as recessed lights as a secondary life source. This is usually an upgrade that people do as a renovation but now you have half the work done with the power already been up in the ceiling for you. I do have a video About how to add recessed lights and I run through how this works by using that power source in the ceiling and then using it to jump across to new lights that you install.

Thank you. I’m happy you found it helpful. It’s the simple things in life that can keep everything moving along smoothly.

sorry to hear that. Not a good way to start off the first apartment experience. But, you figured it out and are already building that DIY mindset. Once you get a home you’ll be ready to handle all the little fixes that come with that. Thank you for finding my channel. Happy I could be of help

That does have a ring to it 🤔

If you can access the outlet or the wall behind the cabinet it can still be done. Just depends on how you want it to look. Either way you could cut a rectangle hole in the back of the cabinet big or small and reach the wall behind. Then cut into the wall and run your wires as you would. Now how you want it to look when finished is up to you. Coolidge have the hole in the cabinet a little bigger than your outlet face and mount your outlet to the wall like normal and it will have a bit of A recessed look. Or you could start with a small/same size hole in the back of the cabinet as you would need for the old work box would need, cut into the drywall and run your wires but you would now be securing the outlet old work box to the cabinet and have the outlet flush with the cabinet. Kinda like using the back of the cabinet as what your drywall would be

I agree

Thank you 🙏🏼

Ring I’ve heard doesn’t have the best track record with giving you data to agencies when asked. Seems like most of them have a certain level of data security until they don’t. Nothing I’ve found is 100% secure, or American made or not owned or manufactured in a foreign country. Usually Eufy has the data/memory stored in the plug in ring chime ( which is in your home) and not the doorbell itself. So you video memory should be safe unless someone is also breaking into your home and taking your plug in chime

I was explaining and showing the type of light fixture you can find, how the wiring goes. But the actually screwing in of the screws I didn’t think people would be confused on or interested in. The fixtures are very straight forward as far as securing them. Most people get stopped when it comes to messing with the wires. Black(hot) white(neutral) & you bare copper ground (green)

Thank you