Frigidaire / Electrolux Front Load Washer Not Spinning - Door Lock Assembly

In this video, I show you how to test the door lock on your Frigidaire / Electrolux front load washer. This lock is also used in many Kenmore front load washing machines as well.
If you have a washer that does not spin or will not start, the door lock assembly may be defective.
Sometimes the washer will buzz when the door is trying to lock. This is normally associated with a door that is not closing properly.
After watching this video you will know how to remove the door lock, how it works and how to test it.
Here is a link to order a new door lock
amzn.to/1Rf1IZy
Here is a link to sign up for the monthly contest
www.applianceoutletservice.com/
Thanks for Watching and Make sure you Subscribe to my KZbin channel to get the latest repair videos.

[@carpenterant11]

Thanks Bill, You and I think alike, keep it running. I have an Frigidaire FWTR445RFS2 Washer, yep it's old. Like you I keep them running. Your Vid was the only one on the web that saved me the time of troubleshooting. My plunger was so bad even the casing was broken. The terminals were not even attached any more. To get it going until the new part arrives I bent the contacts so it stays on... saved me from going to the laundromat, you know what that would cost. I'm a happy man, Thanks again: John S.

[@erinslack5405]

Thank you so much for this video! I un-clipped this part and prongs and springs went everywhere. You allowed me to put it back together and learn what everything does. I really appreciate it!

[@Icetigris]

This video and the comments helped me fix my Frigidaire affinity washer. It was stuck on pause and wouldn't start a cycle. I took out the door lock assembly and found that the coil had corrosion on the solder joints and the fine copper wire had broken off on one end. The solder joints were corroded enough that I couldn't desolder them with my soldering iron and desoldering braid. I unwound a turn of the wire and soldered it above the old joint. Not my finest work, but the washer works now and that's what's important. The fix was actually really quick; it took much longer for me to get the door boot back on!

[@MrBblhed]

Thank you for posting the only video I could find that showed how to remove the latch from the top, also the only one to show how to open the latch and show that it can be done, and what it looks like inside. I was getting 0K Ohms on the magnet coil so I found the end of the coil wire, that was where mine had broken, and I uncoiled a few turns. I then cleaned off the varnish and tested the loose end of the coil wire to the other connector and got 1.3XX K Ohms. Once I knew I the coil was good I fired up the soldering iron and resoldered the wire to its solder pad. Honestly it took less time to diagnose and repair it than it took to heat up the soldering iron. It appears to me that at the factory when they make the connection the pull the wire tight and eventually it breaks. If you are going to make this repair I highly recommend taking photos of the latch end of the assembly as I was unsure of how to reassemble that when I was done.

[@prodigy1922]

Thank You ... Thank You ... Thank You ... on a Fixed income - husband is not the handyman type. Turns out with your help I'm a handywoman!

[@robertsears2762]

Excellent video, professional production, concise, audible, and correct technical terminology. You should be doing ALL KZbin videos. Well done. Thanks for the help.

[@echoknight9663]

This is a great video! I've had this part go bad twice now on my 2012, once it was covered and I just had to pay a service fee, and this time I did it myself and just paid for the part! I wish more videos were this thorough!

[@serineprotease]

I was able to diagnose and fix our front loader with this video. $20 and 20mins is all it took. Thanks.

[@williamreed7572]

Hi Bill - thanks for the informative video - when I took my latch apart pieces DID pop out and yours is the only vid that shows the inners. all together now.

[@howellfelsenthal625]

Very helpful. I replaced the wax motor in my GE branded front load that wouldn't spin. Worked like a champ!

[@Ken-ez3gb]

Very professional indeed, thanks to your info regarding testing I realized the coil was toast so now I know I need a new door lock

[@mandalitten]

This is a great video (I wish more KZbinrs had this kind of quality videos) and thanks to it I think I found the problem with my Washing machine where the motor won't agitate or spin on a cycle (motor won't move at all) although it will fill and pump out water. I first thought it was the spin control board, but found out I wasn't getting any voltage between pin 5 and 6 on the 6 pin harness so I thought the problem might be the door latch. I get about 1.3k ohm between the two terminals that lowers/raises the fork. However, I get no resistance on the wax motor (the one that delays opening the door at the end of a cycle), so I figure this is the problem. It is in the withdrawn position now. However, I noticed that when a cycle is "on" the door is locked and it won't open so it's not fully broken. It wasn't fully clear to me from the video what position this little motor should be in (extracted or withdrawn) to send power to the spin control board so I was hoping you could maybe explain this part.

[@johnschaefer6358]

Toolmakerjack.I was pulling my hair out trying to get the washer main motor to run. I found your video how to test door switch. your a life saver. the wax motor was shot. would have purchased the whole switch mechanism for like $90.00. found the part local for under $20.00 online for under $10.00. Thank you so much. Happy wife= happy life!

[@luiso.rivera2100]

Awsome video! Helped me finding my front door washer/dryer problem. My washer never fill with water or do anything. Water inlet was ok and the main electronic board was good. This saved my from buying a new mashine. Thanks!!!

[@_JerryLopez_]

Great informative vid! Very detailed and precise hands-on approach!

[@charliebrady3751]

Great clear video, thanks. I was able to find an open circuit in the coil of my interlock, and will replace it tomorrow.

[@piqua793]

One of your best Bill. Thanks

[@davidashline2122]

Outstanding tutorial, excellent video quality. You have a subscriber!!

[@puppy_pause]

Still helping in 2018, thanks so much, I had to pull mine appart to see that a spring had popped loose from the clamp teeth and the solenoid clamp wasn't able to properly engage which led to buzzing. The family got so rough with it because once in a while you could bounce the clamp out of the way that they broke the striker. I was able to reprint one on my 3d printer thanks to some one else. Again many thanks.

[@puppy_pause]

put it back together now and it's working like new, well almost new :)

[@travisp6218]

Thank you for putting this together. Very helpful for me.

[@steveocvirek6671]

Great video showing how the switch works. Thank you - I have one at work I need to diagnose.

[@MichaelDrebert]

thank you man I felt like I just got out of 3rd Period Shop! your awesome

[@mr_j83]

Excellent video,thank you very much!

[@popsmccartney435]

Great job on the video, thanks.

[@louisedickson3965]

WOW! Extremely helpful Thanks

[@SriniVas-uk3jp]

Thanks for this great video. Detailed and clear explanation.

[@nickonthafly1]

Very helpful, showed me exactly what i needed to know!

[@JeremyDWilliamsOfficial]

Excellent video. thanks for posting!

[@ericstults1796]

Needed to get laundry done today, but couldn’t get a new lock for 3 days. Thanks to the info here I was able to get the lock to engage with some tie wraps and lineman pliers. Had to take it apart and redo it for the second load as well, but didn’t have to shlup on down to the laundry mat… lock coil had infinite resistance, or was open, so it would not engage.

[@piotrfilipczuk8001]

Great video, you helped me. Thanks.

[@sparkyr22]

Hi many thanks great video. And. Correct me if I'm wrong, my wax motor had the correct resistance but a short travel, I bent the contact so it short sooner in the travel and it worked. Can we assume we can test the travel by checking the time it takes to unlock the door after unplugging it?

[@dancicero]

Thanks for a very helpful video. I got an E41 code, removed the door latch assembly, tested the resistance on the wax motor and got 200 ohms. Figuring that was bad, I ordered a replacement part. We'll see how that goes. For the connection to the wax motor, does the polarity matter? I pulled the connector off and didn't pay attention to which way it was initially installed. It looked like it could go on either way. Thanks!

[@andyx7687]

Thanks for a great and informative video.! I saw another one before yours which only showed how to test the wax motor. According to that, my door lock was good. I would have replaced the control board instead, and wasted lots of money.

[@terryg2160]

Thank you very much, great vid! Most of them dont show you diagnostics like yours, which i was looking for. Mine has an open relay coil between contacts 2 and 3. WTH is a wax motor?? I remember hearing about one on my GFs Dodge Dart carb choke many years ago. Thanks again!

[@ravraid]

Great explanation!

[@sagelinngrace]

Thank you for your video! It was very helpful to see what the inside of the door lock assembly is supposed to look like, and how each part can be tested. Mine is a rather old Frigidaire front load washer, so I'm not looking to invest a whole lot more into it. In your experience, is it possible/worth changing out the wax motor only, rather than the entire unit? The second lock is the one which is malfunctioning. The machine will not enter the spin cycle.

[@ormaloon]

Great Video Bill! One question though, I have an older Frigidaire that shows this exact lock as the replacement part, but the machine itself has a completely different wiring harness. Any ideas?

[@jimbola77]

very good job love your video's!!!

[@DEN1SO]

obviously the best videos )) thanks

[@senthilshunmugam685]

Thanks for videos

[@maryrobertson6772]

I think I commented to your cleanout-the-pumpfilter video. So I checked that and there was no object-filter (there was a friend on it before me but she said he would not leave that out), and also no crud and hair-pins anywhere and the pump seemed okay other than an a mildly uncomfortable amount of vibration when I hot-wire it on the bench. So next I went here and the wax-motor tested OPEN and heats up when I hot-wire it but no action. So I figure this is the whole problem and replace it..but there's still no spin. So I check the motor and its 4.6 all 3 windings and 185 ohm resistance on the tachometer leads; also when I felt the motor to see it it was hot, the body gave a mild, very mild shock. And I didn't think to test it for shorts to ground. So when I saw what you said, about doing that, I started thinking maybe - based on close reading on the 3 windings - maybe its the motor-speed control electronics. Anyway, this lady wants me to get the motor and control board and install them and get her washer going, that's all! I'm about to refund her 50 for the door-lock and walk away. Any thoughts? (I have always hated stack units..but thanks to you, and others on youtube, I understand them a little better.) -c.

[@bernardsoule396]

Thank you!

[@MrJuanChiChi]

I have a Frigidaire affinity FAFW3801LW5 washer that won't spin. I pulled the latch out and it tested at 1145. I assume the latch is not my problem right? Thx

[@obey2dmax]

I have the same issue, it skips the spin / rinse steps even after the door lock mechanism had been replaced and water doesn't drain due no final spin. Error Code reads E21 Frigidaire Affinity. What's E21? Thanks in advance.

[@joseluisrodriguez8586]

Thanks, you shure did help me with this video.....

[@josephpuchel6497]

Hey Bill nice tutorial can I purchase just wax motor. I see ones for other brands ? Thanks

[@hiramrodriguez7258]

hey bill I have a Frigidaire affinity dryer that shows "door open" and it wont start? what would be the problem?

[@JohnsCustoms]

Curious ... I am running some tests via the tech sheet. Where is the "Air Trap" located ?? I need to check for a clog. I am getting an "E38" code

[@erfannosrati-pf6ck]

Thanks

[@bardoperez3426]

Thanks bro!!😎😷👍🏼🍗 info helped out a lot! During Thanksgiving Covid! Sucks! Lol But had to get it working!

[@jerryvansickle7783]

Hey Bill. Can you help me? I have a Frigidaire AF6000ES1 and getting a PAU error. This washer has been sitting in storage since 2012. It worked fine before. The door lock may have even been replaced once before about a year after we bought this washer. We started it up yesterday and it started to fill and then we went back later to check on it and it had a PAU error. I took the lock off and was trying to test is as in your video. I don't have a good setup to test with 120v, but I did finally get it to click once before it scared the crap out of me. LOL. I also tried the ohm meter on it before and after and I couldn't get anything. I tried the ohm meter on the slow moving secondary lock and I got 1.315 ohms with that. Is my lock just not working? I would appreciate any help you can give.

[@markinvt]

Great video. I replaced the broken door latch (top prong) but fear the broken piece is still inside the assembly as the washer makes an "arrrrgh" sound when I try to turn it on. However, as I watch your video, there doesn't appear to be enough room inside the assembly for the broken piece to have gotten stuck. I hate to remove and open up the assembly but looks like I'm going to have to. Thanks!

[@bustermcginn]

bill. i guess i would use the same process to get a broken latch out of the locking unit.( top part) I'll try that first, don't need to buy a new locking unit if i don't have to. Thanks for the video

[@elchaka1515]

I have a crostley front loader and has a le error and also the door hatch

[@appleimacdude]

I would like to see added to this the problem I have had over the years, with my GLTF1040 Frigidaire door getting "tweaked" somewhat, and will not engage the catch - right now a tried fixing it by tweaking it back, got door to latch, but now it leaks at the bottom - after this load will look at seal again - not easy for me to tweak the door to get the washer to operate again when this happens -

[@nestorvalenzuela8494]

Thank you for such great video it's very informative and professional. I tried all your tests and I have no ohms reading on the coil. Everything else worked fine. Is there a way to fix this before I buy the part? Thank you.

[@EhWassAmattaU]

I had the same problem. The coil wire (very fine copper) had broken from the solder connection. I took one wrap off and re-soldered it. Now it works.

[@MrBblhed]

I agree with FunWithPaul, I did the same exact thing. I was getting 0K Ohms on the magnet coil so I found the end of the coil wire, that was where mine had broken, and I uncoiled a few turns. I then cleaned off the varnish and tested the loose end of the coil wire to the other connector and got 1.3XX K Ohms. Once I knew I the coil was good I fired up the soldering iron and resoldered the wire to its solder pad. Honestly it took less time to diagnose and repair it than it took to heat up the soldering iron. If you are going to make this repair I highly recommend taking photos of the latch end of the assembly as I was unsure of how to reassemble that when I was done.

[@IrisOrnig1]

Hi Bill, I watched your video and my Frigidaire Washer ATF6000ES1 shows no code only ERR when the dial is on spin and I press start and cancel. Could this be the same error? Looking forward hearing from you.

[@patrickcunningham2121]

I have a frigidaire affinity washer. It fills with water then when it starts to spin/agitate it does a partial turn and stops. Any idea of the issue?

[@algeriajohnson9023]

What did you use to send that 12 volts… I need one

[@christopherleslie4374]

Bill I hav a machine like this wen I press the start button then press the cancel button to start it all the lights turn off on it wat can caus that

[@gizzmo8860]

Thank you good video I have bought 3 of these and all were bad.

[@tungle2854]

Can you share the model # for this Frigidaire / Electrolux Front Load Washer? I have the same one but the tag was gone.

[@henrytovar4863]

Hi Bill, thank you for so complete explanation. Just a question, if I'd like to bypass this device, should I bridge both contacts, the one of the wax motor and the one of the magnetic coil?

[@brandon6574]

Just Zip Tie the two copper contacts together and it bypasses the wax motor works fine. Just dont open the door early with the power off :)

[@dphanks]

Thanks Bill Great video! I loved the tour of the inside. Looks like I have a bad coil.

[@kevinwhite4101]

Great video. By far easy to see and understand you. But I have done a outter door panel a hinge and a door striker. I checked the function of lock. It latches on door when door latch is off washer. But when back in place, the door shuts but it will not latch shut.. I have moved door hinge try different alignment. Still no latch.. I'm out of ideas

[@rabbbie99]

Does the door lock send a signal to the circuit board to then enable the drum motor to run?

[@jimwood6125]

Does anyone know how I get the control lock light off on my new Frigidaire top loading glass door

[@tboss6689]

If i inject 120v and the door lock switch does not switch on the downward position , or lock door position is the switch defective ?

[@ufartface]

whats the purpose of contact points in the middle of the fork?

[@janaemcl2485]

Can I remove that slow motor so I can open my door? That drives me nuts, like you said. I see you said it gets hot. But can understand why they'd make something that won't open when it's not spinning for an extended period

[@David-pj2ro]

What camera are you using to make this video? Great job of explaining the Switch!!!!!

[@joecox9958]

Thanks alot for detailed info. but you forget to measure the NO contacts of pin 1-4 that's would be the likely problem if it is fail.

[@ufartface]

great video but you didn't explain what the white hinged part does?

[@enzofregonese5014]

My coil ohms reading is 1.32 ohms. Is this within range because a good coil is 1.29 ohms. Is my door latch mechanism fine or not because I bought a new wax motor reading is 1.05 ohms not 1.19 ohms and the final fast speed drying is still not working with having a new wax motor. Is the new wax motor defected or do I need to change out the door mechanism that includes the 3 plugins including the wax motor

[@enzofregonese5014]

So I bought a new one and still the same issue. I notice a lot of vibration from the drain pump, stabilized it by securing it. I also sprayed lithium grease back of motor just behind the belt and motor spin rod. Not sure if the new door lock was necessary. All seems fine now. I have the old latch with new wax motor as backup.

[@williamcattr267]

So an olms reading of 1.745 is bad for this door mechanism?

[@Bm6463]

What if replacing it doesn't fix the drain and spin cycle. And if you think the drain pump dirty stuck or broken that doesn't make any sense because it drains and spins in the wash cycle. Also there a video to drain and spin when it won't do it on its own. That works but in not doing that every time. So to fix do you think the new door lock is faulty and order another one or something else?

[@pammoore8178]

Bill,I can't even open my Kenmore Elite front loader door.Help!

[@amirabduselam9079]

is it dc or Ac power supply of 120v is given to the coil?

[@brandon6574]

Just Zip Tie the two copper contacts together and it bypasses the wax motor works fine. Just do not open the door early before it stops spinning with the power off :) Then you have a fixed working washing machine. Then order the 20 dollar part from Amazon and wait a couple days to get it if you want to be safe. This fixes the clothes still being soaking wet when it says it is done.

[@daminicabrown8658]

I need help I replaced then door lock but if still won't spin help

[@sodhibss]

whats the error code. if the washer is Frigidaire you can find the error code by pressing cancel/pause botton to let all led off and the holding start and cancel/pause botton together. it will display the error code. note mine is Frigidaire gallery series it has a small screen where it display time for all wash and the error display there with E

[@jawharris]

Mine tested good but didn't work. I have a GE, but I searched for Frigidaire's part number and found one for 21 dollars, I wasn't sure it would work, but did. My error was 3 beeps, which doesn't indicate this as a problem, but the Internet did.

[@mrsavedbygrace2569]

Excellent video 👍👍. I subscribed. Very helpful.

[@Joseaguilar-pt4iq]

I always use a couple of flat crew drivers

[@alexquesada2275]

Thought I'd be able to by pass stage 1 door lock because of E43 code and ended up just frying the board I think? Washer won't even turn on anymore...

[@carmac1652]

My washer will not turn on . can I buy pass the door switch ?

[@pedrozarazua7119]

Estos tutoriales en español donde están alguien puede ayudarme?

[@danielrufledt5246]

My washer locks and immediately unlocks the door when I hit start. I replaced the lock and both boards . Still does same thing and wont start. HELP

[@killmore75]

can you just buy the wax motor only?

[@condega9170]

Like

[@razordu30]

I’m very tempted to short the contacts that tell the system the wax motor lock is engaged. On a scale of 1 to 10, how likely is my death?

[@sparkyr22]

On mine, I bent the contact just shy of closed cuz the travel of the wax motor was less than the one shown and it worked, I ordered a new one from ebay though.

[@rook7mile]

i cannot get the rubber off

[@TheMnestroy]

So what's the secret to bypassing this 'feature' so one does not need to spend $60 on a new one?

[@falas_last]

How to bypassing?😥 Please help me.

[@krisztinaf7114]

Thank you!

[@Elwinator3]

Thanks