From Humbrol to Tamiya - Let's talk about plastic model cements! (and my experiences with them)

I get asked quite often what my opinions are on certain brands of plastic cement. Whilst I do tend to talk about the glues or cements I use during any particular build video, I realised that I didn't have a stand-alone video where I discuss my current experiences and favourite brands!
So here it is!
Join me in this video as I talk about my experiences with model plastic cement, discussing the different brands I've used, highlighting what I think are the strengths and weaknessess of each of them.
Whilst I haven't used that many brands so far, I do primarily talk about Humbrol, Tamiya and Revell. I also give examples of some of the plastic model kits that I have painted with these specific cements - including my first kit the Airfix Hawker Hurricane and a few others yet to be featured . . .
See my thoughts on my first ever model, the Airfix Hawker Hurricane MkI/IIb in 1/72 scale here:
• Airfix Hurricane MkI/I...
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This video is intended for adult scale model enthusiasts.
Model Minutes holds no responsibility for any accidents, damage or injury that could occur as a result of attempting to replicate any steps depicted in this video.
Unless specifically indicated, all products have been independently purchased.
All music used from the KZbin audio library.
#modelkit #scalemodel #cement #cements #polycement

[@stevesstuff1450]

An easy way that I figured out to stop the Revell Contacta from drying out in the needle applicator when not being used, is to tip the tub forward on it's 'stand' so that it now points down, and rests on the tip of the plastic needle cover. This keeps liquid cement all the way down the length of the needle, preventing it from drying up! When you want to use it, tip it back, and when you remove the plastic cover, the glue doesn't rush out everywhere; It just works as it should! :-)

[@ModelMinutes]

thanks for the tip!

[@bartomiejwiatr5612]

Sir ! Excuse me, sir. Do you want to talk about our lord and savior- Tamiya Extra Thin ?

[@ModelMinutes]

It's certainly a great cement :D

[@andersdenkend]

Yeah, my favourite. Use it for basically everything, except large sheets of PS when scratchbuilding.

[@plastic_models_antonio]

@@andersdenkend better cement is MR.cement s by gunze

[@andersdenkend]

@@plastic_models_antonio I gotta try this as well.

[@sonicwingnut]

@@plastic_models_antonio I found the Mr Tool Cleaner R from those guys is basically the same stuff as Tamiya Extra Thin, except you can get a 400ml bottle for £14. Got some at a hobby fair the other day and a quick test bonded a few bits of sprue together brilliantly. I plan on topping up my Tamiya bottles with it.

[@bk109]

Anyone else getting PTSD flashbacks from the toothpaste-style Humbrol glue , or that's just me? :D

[@ModelMinutes]

:P

[@DavidLee-im8tg]

Memories of breaking off the metal tip only to bend the top half the tube and squirting/oozing everywhere

[@dotdashdotdash]

happy days. leaving melted gluey fingerprints on your model

[@bk109]

@@dotdashdotdash lol - melted fingerprints I could live with... the 4 to 8 weeks waiting for the mail-ordered massively overpriced (like 4x excluding shipping, because growing up in a post-communist cleptocracy is amusing like that) replacement to show up... crushed and crumpled, however :D

[@michaelspitz9151]

I’m glad I don’t, I’m not that old, gladly all I know is revell and Tamiya, oh and model master.

[@1hackmodeller557]

The Tamiya extra thin cement is a lifesaver.

[@ModelMinutes]

:D

[@Ryan_hs123]

my first glue was the revell needle glue as a man in the store recommended it and i’ve never used any other

[@bk109]

I used the Revell exclusively, I must say that the Tamiya's got it beat when doing long welds like a ships's hull or an airliner or dealing with warped parts. Basically, as it cures way faster, it allows you relatively easily to pull together the warped parts without marring the surface and with a lesser chance of having a seam pull itself/deform itself, because it wasn't actually fully done ( *glares* at HMS Victorious). TLDR - the Revell's pretty nice, but having the Tamiya (especially at

[@ModelMinutes]

It is a good product

[@LRBerry]

Going back to the 70s, in my much younger days, the poly cement tube was a staple to my model building. I have recently got back into model building and I am using the Revell contacta pro. As you say in the video, this is really good for the precise placing of the glue.

[@ModelMinutes]

It really is!

[@TheNavalGuy]

Yes can’t wait for this! Now that I have quite a bit more experience in modeling, I now understand that different glues and cements are crucial. As of now, I use the Revell contacta, Tamiya cement and extra thin cement and the academy cement. Out of all of them the Tamiya and the Revell ones are the best in my opinion.

[@ModelMinutes]

Great to hear!

[@davidhinkson8856]

I've used the tube cement most of the time I've been in this hobby, mostly the Humbrol product and Testors. I first encountered the Revell Contacta when I bought a gift set with the Ford Escort RAC Rally car in 2006 and I found out that works well - thanks for clarifying the issue that crops up with it, because I was curious about that. Never used the Tamiya products before.

[@ModelMinutes]

I'm glad you found it helpful!

[@NoLieIm51]

I really like your channel I’m glad I subbed. Youre very informative and helpful as I’m just starting out and I appreciate it

[@ModelMinutes]

thanks very much! Glad I could help

[@brianartillery]

One of the oddest things that i remember about Airfix tube cement, was that, in about 1972, the formulation was changed, and the odour went from an extremely solvent smelling fluid, presumably to dissuade glue sniffers, to one that far from being off-putting, smelled very pleasantly of oranges. Does anyone else remember that? I won an ebay auction for a 1970's Airfix Ford Trimotor, recently, and when it arrived, I opened the box to read through the instructions. Imagine my surprise, and joy, on finding an unopened tube of Airfix cement in the box. I think that pleased me more than the kit, to be honest. I'm not opening it, though. I generally use EMA Plastic Weld, and the Tamiya Extra Thin.

[@ModelMinutes]

how interesting!

[@bradster1708]

I have memories of using a very aromatic glue when I was a young teenager some time in the late seventies.u memories are vague except I do remember absolutely loving the smell, opposite of the normal airfix glue smell. I did eventually throw it away, was worried I would spend too much time smelling the lovely aroma although this glue did not smell of orange.

[@NealDench]

Good luck finishing the jar of liquid poly, Matt. I’m still using mine, bought about 40 years ago! It still works though, so I’m going to finish it as well, but after that I’ll give the Tamiya a go. (To be fair, there were many years in between where I did no modelling, but it takes a while to use up!)

[@ModelMinutes]

haha yes, it might take me a while - i managed to get through a bottle of tamiya ET cement in about 2 years though

[@julianmhall]

@@ModelMinutes It probably depends on the volume of models.. My guess is you probably do more so get through glue faster.

[@gartsherriejunction4643]

Useful video. In answer to your question about other glues to use then the following spring to mind: Tamiya Cement; EMA Plastic Weld. Mind you these 2 glues are used primarily with gluing polystyrene sheets from Evergreen, Javis etc and are useful for scratchbuilding but also for kit models too. All the best. Mike

[@ModelMinutes]

thanks for the info!

[@LouisArnold_]

what about the other types of tamiya cement, the white/orange one and the extra thin fast setting

[@ModelMinutes]

Great suggestions - will have to see if I can dig some up

[@slipknotfan2217]

the fast setting one is very good for small parts and cleaning up tiny imperfections

[@sonicwingnut]

The white one I use for larger parts like gluing vehicle panels or terrain together. It's a bit more gloopy than the extra thin but it's still really good.

[@psychopenguin3821]

thanks for the tutorial just what i ws looking for i am revisiting model building after a hiatus of over 25 years i started with the testor tube thick glue and was looking for a thinner "neater" cement thanks for letting me know how each is used and how they perform ill be picking up Tamiya extra thin and thin

[@ModelMinutes]

glad you found it helpful

[@deaks25]

I started out with the Humbrol tubes as a kid and I used so much back then that 25+ years later, my oldest models are more or less fully intact and essentially indestructible, so it's damn good glue but my most used glue is the Revell. I haven't really dipped my toe into the Tamiya thin/extra thin, mostly because at times in the past, budget meant it was a luxury I couldn't justify, but I've never felt like the Revell cement couldn't do what I needed so for me it's the perfect all-rounder.

[@ModelMinutes]

yes, sadly the cost of these products can mean that you are "locked in" to a specific type for a while

[@timgermain881]

I started modeling using Testors version of the Humbrol Poly Cement. I squeezed it out onto a piece of paper or a 3x5 card then used a toothpick to spread it on the model. Now I like using Tamiya extra thin cement.

[@ModelMinutes]

That's a great idea!

[@SimbianMinistry]

The Contacta needle - I fit a piece of wire (I use the trimmed end of a guitar string) into the lid, through a hole I make in the end of it. Inserts into the needle when I put the lid back on - so I never get blockages any more.

[@ModelMinutes]

good idea!

[@glencwilson]

Returning to building models about 3 years ago after a 40 year gap the main differences were glues and paints. Extra thin was recommended to me and was a revolution and I probably use that most. Tamiya white top cement is a good alternative to the Airfix starter kit glue but has a thick brush. Anything structural like wings or wheels on aircraft do need a stronger glue. The only glues I would add to the list are CA and PVA. CA is good for holding something in position and then using one of the others to get a 'proper' bond between parts as it is just too brittle on its own. PVA, even the cheap craft store stuff is useful for clear parts and can have produce surprisingly strong join.

[@ModelMinutes]

very true!

[@CycolacFan]

Been using the Revell Contacta for over 20 years, used various other glues but I still come back to the Revell. Clear the nozzle with fuse wire. I keep about three inches of it wrapped around the neck.

[@ModelMinutes]

cool tip!

[@TheBattleRabbit860]

What are your thoughts on the Testors liquid cement in the triangular black bottles? I have used that one for many years and recently started using the Tamiya Extra Thin and I've fallen in love with it. The Testors brand cement is a lot like the Revell with the metal needle tip. As a backup I have Insta-Cure + (the purple bottle).

[@ModelMinutes]

Testors is quite difficult to find here in the UK so I don't have any experience with them sadly

[@bk109]

4:20 - pressure buildup in those buggers is an issue, especially in warmer months, so I'd suggest first unscrewing the yellow cap a bit to 'vent' things before first use for the day, same goes for the occasions when the needle gets unblocked with a lighter... Also - when the glue runs out, that same yellow cap allows for either refilling with glue (ie from the Contacta with a brush applicator) or for various washes and DIY panel liners ;)

[@ModelMinutes]

thanks for the info!

[@julianmhall]

@@ModelMinutes never having used one I did wonder if the Revell top could be unscrewed so bk109 answered that. Ref blocked nozzles, how about paint thinners / strippers poured in the unscrewed cap and left with the needle pointed down? That may work its way through the needle and break down the hard glue.

[@sayeager5559]

The Contacta bottles are refillable and I like to refill mine with tamiya thick cement (orange top). I use this for large parts like turret or hull halves and wing surfaces. Also I like the slow setting Mig/Ammo cement for track links to give more working time.

[@ModelMinutes]

awesome idea!

[@trainsontuesday]

I use different glues for different projects and different parts of a single project. PVA will work quite well on some components if you pre-paint the parts with matt paint.

[@ModelMinutes]

cool idea!

[@mikemodels928]

Revell was the first glue i ever used. I switched onto Tamiya ET cement but i still use Revell one for heavy duty work or attatching big parts.

[@ModelMinutes]

nice to know!

[@justarandum7959]

Hi Matt. Another good video. Have you had any experience with MIG by Ammo cements? I use their extra thin as I couldn't get Tamiyas here in the UK and it is very very good. I will be switching from the Revel needle cement to MIGs slow setting cement when the Revel runs out.

[@justarandum7959]

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Mig-Ammo-Extra-Thin-Cement-polyester-plastic-glue-30ml-A-MIG-2025-/265197302419?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

[@justarandum7959]

www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Ammo-by-Mig-Medium-Density-Plastic-Cement-Slow-Dry-30ml-Bottle-A-MIG-2038-/265197302553?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0

[@ModelMinutes]

I've not had a go with those yet

[@lesthiele4921]

Hi MM, I have gone through most of the glue types, I used to have four litre of MEK and that worked the same as Tamiya Thin, I do use the Revell contacta, but now I only use Tamiya Thin, and at odd times I use their white top, thanks again for the review, keep safe and well, best regards from a Kiwi living in Australia.

[@Reactordrone]

Yep, MEK is a good stand by and easy to find in the plumbing section of hardware stores as PVC pipe priming fluid.

[@ModelMinutes]

thanks!

[@sandtable8091]

Revell blockages can be cleared by taking a wire tie, say from bread bags and such, stripping away the paper from half to two thirds of its length and using the resulting fine wire as a ramrod. It works a treat when I forget to cap the glue overnight.

[@ModelMinutes]

thanks for the tip!

[@andrewwoods4281]

I use the Revell Contacta needle cement for the tougher jobs but i have used Plastic Weld by EMA for years. I have just been recommended Mr Cenenr S which seems like the Tamiya Extra Thin... larger bottle brush though!

[@ModelMinutes]

Thanks for sharing!

[@verabolton]

I'm doing my first model kit and had no idea what I was to do with this tube (Poly Cement) 😂 Thanks for the help 👍

[@ModelMinutes]

Glad I could help!

[@scalesmodellingmagic5883]

I do use a lot of Humbrol liquid poly but I do have the fine applicator one as well as revell contacter now I am looking for some different gules like tamyia

[@ModelMinutes]

very cool!

[@Madz_1912]

This helped a lot thank you

[@ModelMinutes]

Glad to hear!

[@rochedl]

Plastruct is a movie effects standard and give a super strong bond, Not sure about prices in your area but it is alot cheaper then Tamiya brand cement. I have been using it for 30 years now and while it is best for styrine plastic it can also be good for plexiglass as well.

[@ModelMinutes]

thanks for the suggestion!

[@heavyruben]

I remove the needle first Then i take a lighter and burn it ust for like 4 second And the wipe of the soot from the needle And then putts it in back on revells bottle...... Love to watch your channel by the way allways learn more and more!

[@ModelMinutes]

Great tip!

[@Rosshannah1695]

I use a length of 15amp fuse wire, rolled flat to clear the needle nozzle. Fuse wire being soft bends easily, but never had any problems so far. Love the revell glue and Tamiya extra thin, though have noticed it tends to soften the joint and it'll pop back out, or a tail fin droop or fall off. Patience pays as always....except when the carpet monster eats another important part that pings off my "good" model tweezers. God bless and keep up the good work.

[@ModelMinutes]

thanks for letting me know :D

[@chuck9987]

Humbrol Liquid Poly is the same formula as the Revell Contacta Liquid Weld, Butyl Acetate. Tamiya Green is 50% Butyl Acetate and 50% Acetone. Tamiya Orange is 40% Butyl Acetate, 40% Acetone, 7% Cyclohexane, 11% clear polystyrene resin, and 2% 3-Methoxy-3-Methbutyl Acetate. The resin makes it considerably thicker than it's green cousin. The tube stuff tends to be Toluene and polystyrene resin mixes.

[@ModelMinutes]

love a bit of chemistry - thanks :D

[@bradster1708]

That is very useful information.

[@Corsario-ud1du]

I use other Tamiya cements with good results: the bottles come with a white and orange caps. I also like to use Testors liquid cement, the bottle is black with needle-type applicator.

[@ModelMinutes]

nice!

[@doublenickelbob]

Great video. Tamiya has a white top liquid glue also a bunch more. Could you do a comparison of all the ramiya brand glues? Thank you .

[@ModelMinutes]

Great suggestion!

[@keithwasntbarrumsing483]

I’m considering buying some vallejo paints for the 1/48 spitfire i’m going to build soon, thanks for the video

[@ModelMinutes]

No problem 👍

[@LaMOi1]

Hi - I bought revell contacta professional …. I’m new to minatures. Bought some (plastic - Games workshop/ Warhammer) off eBay an, and a sword snapped off in the post. So I used the glue. Firstly it seemed like ages to get hard enough for me to leave it. Then came back to it at the end of the day, and it snapped off pretty easy. It didn’t stick it well. Games worship minatures are plastic I think. Do you need to shake the glue before use or something? Am I not understanding some crucial step??

[@ModelMinutes]

the plastic glue melts the two surfaces together, it won't work properly if: * there is not enough surface area on the contact points *not enough cement is used * there is paint (or something else) acting as a barrier between the plastic and the cement * the plastic is not polystyrene (it can work on other plastics but not always)

[@alfepalfe]

For an even thicker cement get an old bottle of extra thin that is beginning to run out and dissolve as much sprue as possible into it, I don't think it makes as strong bonds but it sure is thick. (It btw dissolves very slowly so just know that and also the built in brush might not work for this so you may need to use a toothpick)

[@ModelMinutes]

ah, yes i have heard of this!

[@silaskuemmerle2505]

Sprue goo is great for filling gaps

[@DavidLee-df888]

I find myself alternating between Revell Contacta Pro and Tamiya Extra Thin. Judging by the thumbnail, so do you...

[@TheNavalGuy]

Extra thin good for like seeping into smaller gaps, and Revell is best for like those bigger surfaces

[@ModelMinutes]

yup

[@SimbianMinistry]

A couple worth looking at: Citadel plastic glue - comes in needle bottle similar to Contacta. Noticeably thinner than Contacta... pretty good. - E.M.A Model Supplies Plastic Weld - Comes in a brown bottle with child-proof lid, a bit like a pill bottle - VERY similar to Tamiya Extra Thin - You get about twice as much in a bottle but no brush - I decant it into an empty Tamiya jar... I tried both during lockdown when my LMS was closed - Ran out of Tamiya extra thin and was desperate for something similarly runny.

[@ModelMinutes]

thanks for the suggestion!

[@theblytonian3906]

1960s Humbrol Polystyrene cement was all there was. As a kid, Soviet style assembly line. Open Airfix header bag, build in an hour with poly ...who cared about overruns, apply decals, 10 minutes later into 'combat'. I got more sophisticated by the time I was 10½ when I started painting my models before applying those decals when Humbrol tinlets and a modelling brush also challenged my 3/- pocket money every other week instead of a new kit. Move on to 2022. Having tried most out there over the years, my three plastic glue staples today are 1. Tamiya Thin (Green cap), 2. Tamiya Regular (Orange or Clear cap depending upon size) & 3. Revell Contact Pro with its needle applicator for when I need it. Honourable mentions to Zap Thin CA (Pink) for PE, Plasti-ZAP (Orange) for a myriad of misc. plastic assembly purposes, ZAP Formula 560 Canopy Glue (former R/C flier) or Weldbond for canopies and PE all of which are also in my glues inventory.

[@ModelMinutes]

thanks for sharing

[@Incrediblebowlesmodels]

I have used the revell glue testors Tamiya and I love the Tamiya glue for small parts and filling seams the testors is very thick so I use that for large parts or for parts that will not move

[@ModelMinutes]

thanks for the info!

[@thekinksfan5102]

Tamiya extra thin cement and Tamiya airbrush cleaner are practically the same stuff. Extra thin is 50% Butyl Acetate and 50% Acetone, airbrush cleaner 49% and 51%. There's no difference when welding parts together. Once you have bought the first extra thin bottle, you can save money by pouring airbrush cleaner in the container. It comes in a 250ml bottle.

[@ModelMinutes]

thanks for letting me know!

[@bradster1708]

Very useful information, thanks

[@johnhammond6423]

If you want to glue transparent cockpit parts and are worried about the glue causing 'misting' then all you have to do is to apply the glue and wait about 60 seconds before attaching the parts. The fumes from the glue which cause the misting have gone but the glue still works.

[@ModelMinutes]

thanks for the info - i've found that tamiya extra thin can be used with no real adverse effects too (although sparingly)

[@markcherriman6136]

I can't get some aftermarket resin parts to stick . What would you recommend ?. Ditto etched brass parts .

[@ModelMinutes]

isn't CA recommended for those?

[@markcherriman6136]

@@ModelMinutes I'm new to this . What's CA ?

[@ModelMinutes]

@@markcherriman6136 cyanoacrylate, more commonly known as super glue

[@dukejohn2898]

there is a video on youtube that shows you that tamiya airbrush cleaner is the same as the tamiya extra thin

[@normiukkeli3739]

It works well as glue, but its definately not exactly the same because they do smell different.

[@ModelMinutes]

interesting!

[@deanburn3400]

Good evening have you tried sprue glue yet I made some with extra thin glue and I think it's plastic card or card it's supposed to be good in filling straight forward small gaps rather than a variety fillers. Or tiny parts of an old sprue piece cut into tiny pieces mixed with the extra thin. You leave it a few days in a small sprat bottle and you should be able to use it. I have an FW190 Edouard not used it yet but will do on this I think.

[@ModelMinutes]

Thanks, I have heard of making that kind of fluid, but yet to try it :)

[@duckyouall3225]

I'm buying the orange cap cement from tamiya and also the contacta I should be good right?

[@ModelMinutes]

yeah, should work ok

[@artsenne34]

Which one would you recommend for general model use?

[@ModelMinutes]

If, for whatever you could only get one, I'd recommend the revell contacta because it is easy to use and the needle makes it accurate. Tamiya Extra Thin is pretty much a necessity though . . . It makes assembly so much easier and tidier

[@hermanhandbrush4402]

I've been using Testor's tube glue (usually the non-toxic version) for years, but I keep thinking I should try something thinner like Tamiya extra thin.

[@ModelMinutes]

good idea :D

[@lancerevell5979]

I still use the red tube Testors. Tried the less toxic blue tube as a kid decades ago, but it simply didn't perform.

[@ja37d-34]

Tamiya Thin and Tamiya Extra Thin and an old Humbrol like yours, but the longer non-starter version, is what I use for your same reasons. :) I guess Mr Hobby has some too which i presume is of similar quality as Tamiya´s. I might try theirs too, next tiem I buy new glues.

[@ModelMinutes]

Yeah, I want to try other cements but have quite a lot to use at the moment lol

[@grahamhutton3129]

Hi there. I have been using the revell glue you have here on show. If you apply too much to fit something, will it never dry and burn the plastic? I tried to fit my landing gear down, used lots of glue and the never dried or went solid and the legs snapped off 🙁🙁🙁🙁

[@ModelMinutes]

The action of the cement is to effectively weld the plastic parts together. Using an excess of cement can prevent the 2 surfaces from contacting each other and then just melting those areas

[@grahamhutton3129]

@@ModelMinutes Ah thanks. That must be what happened then. A poor fit between the wheel struts and the undercarriage, using too much glue and never setting. Oh well, another model for the dustbin!

[@ModelMinutes]

@@grahamhutton3129 don’t through it away, save it as a paint mule to try out new techniques or as a basis for a diorama in some way. There are always ways to use ruined models

[@lancerevell5979]

I still prefer to mostly use the classic Testors tube cement (red tube). I have lately found some limited use for Tamiya fine, and various CA glues for special needs. The old tiny tubes supplied with some kits still have the classic smell from my childhood decades ago. For clear parts, I have begun using Mod Podge (after seeing another YT modeler use it) as it is thick enough to hold well, and dries clear without fogging the clear plastic. Have used Testors Window Maker, but it is thinner and harder to work with.

[@ModelMinutes]

I find that if i mask clear parts then use a bit of extra thin cement, it leaves little marks where the tape was

[@Aardvarkdk1]

In my teen years, I used the Humbrol starter set -like glue, it was terrible. Now a days, I use 2 combos. 1. Revell Contacta (to when I need to manipulate objects until it dries. 2. Tamiya Extra Thin, Quicksetting. Nr 2 is my favorite glue. Its excellent !

[@ModelMinutes]

Thanks for sharing!

[@leveneo2731]

Hi Matt, would you ever consider getting an airbrush if you dont have one already? It really has transformed the look of my models!

[@ModelMinutes]

I might consider it XD kzbin.info/www/bejne/i2rRdo17r9mBg6c

[@ET42Driver]

My best glue so far is the one I've made myself from an empty tamiya extra thin bottle, tamiya aibrush cleaner (same thing as tamiya extra thin glue just in 250ml bottle) and added some cut up plastic sprue into that for some extra reinforcement.

[@ModelMinutes]

Thanks for sharing

[@hanssmidt12]

I saw also ammo cement will you test it later and did you use Mr cement s

[@ModelMinutes]

i'll have to see if I can get some to try them out

[@jplstudios6507]

I use steel guitar strings to clear my revell cement applicator, works great.

[@ModelMinutes]

interesting tip!

[@epicforger12345]

I know your not supposed to but the revell model glue smells the best

[@ModelMinutes]

I think my sense of smell has decreased over time so I don't really notice anymore

[@stevehuffman7453]

Back in the 1960's and 70's when I built plastic models ($1.50 to $2.00 for a 1:24 or 1:25 scale AMT/REVEL/MONOGRAM car kit), I used Tesror's (red). It was the best available in my area, also quite common and affordable. I tried the Testor's (blue) ("sniff-proof") when it came out, but it did not work as well. After time, the model fell apart, because the glue failed. The red "welded" or if you prefer, "melted" the parts together. The blue didn't. With thecost of model cars today, I have less than zero intenton of buildng another. The "same" kit I paid $2 for back then (usually had the option to build "1 of three ways"; stock;custom; or race) is over $20 today - and at mosthas stock or custom or race build options - not all three. Hence fewer parts.

[@ModelMinutes]

apparently $1 in 1965 is the same as about $10 today, so realistically the models haven't actually increased in price, the money just doesn't have the same spending power

[@costaricanzebra5475]

Not long ago I built a 1/32 scale hawk with just the humbrol glue you can get out of the starter sets, due to my Revell contacta running out.

[@ModelMinutes]

i hope it worked out ok for you

[@costaricanzebra5475]

@@ModelMinutes It surprisingly worked out ok, nearly ran out getting towards the end of the build

[@ModelMinutes]

@@costaricanzebra5475 awesome!

[@charlesqc9272]

I use Tamiya and Model Master (8872) (Testors) for plastic and some CA And also one Testors (3515) for clear canopy. Humbrol are difficult to get here

[@ModelMinutes]

yeah, i have the same problem with other products, being in the UK they aren't so easy to get

[@Model_Junkers]

I take the needle off the revel when I ran out of it then put it on the Humboldt cement so it has a thinner tube I also wash it with warm water after using it it’s genius

[@ModelMinutes]

cool idea!

[@TheRabit11]

Hi could you please comment on the one that smells the least this is a major problem for me as my partner is really affected by the smell of certain solvents. I'd appreciate any advice as this is the only thing that's stopping me getting into building models thanks.

[@ModelMinutes]

Sadly I don’t have an amazing sense of smell as it is, but I think you can get low odour versions of some of these cements. Unfortunately, as far as I can tell, they all pretty much smell pretty similar. Tamiya made a spiced pumpkin scented cement once upon a time, but I’ve not experienced that one. Deluxe Materials make a “Roket low odour cement” - might be worth googling that but I’ve never used it

[@TheRabit11]

@@ModelMinutes Thankyou for your reply it was very helpful by the way your videos are great keep it up👍

[@ModelMinutes]

@@TheRabit11 thanks 😊

[@georgvanpelt811]

You can use a cat whiskers to clean the cannula of the contacta glue. Works fine!

[@markcherriman6136]

Do you remove the whisker from the cat first ?

[@georgvanpelt811]

@@markcherriman6136 No, Im using the whole cat. Its a little bit difficult, and you have to wear heavy leather gloves, but after the 145th time or so the cat will understand whats going on, and even begins to purr! ;)

[@ModelMinutes]

Not sure my cat would let me . . haha

[@julianmhall]

I've seen lots of videos on YT - and also originally his TV programme - of an artist called Bob Ross. He achieved a thin point from - sometimes even two inch - brushes by rolling them to a point. May help with otherwise untidy brush ends.

[@ModelMinutes]

interesting idea

[@scalesmodellingmagic5883]

In my way of cleaning revel contacta use the pointed end of the knife and wind it on the tip of the needle

[@ModelMinutes]

nice!

[@arni7810]

Nice!! The Tamiya can it be use for cross RC trucks??

[@ModelMinutes]

if they are made of polystyrene plastic it should work fine

[@arni7810]

@@ModelMinutes thanks

[@LuisFlores-cx8py]

Thoughts on citadel brand plastic cement?

[@ModelMinutes]

can't say i have ever used it, i imagine it would be similar to the humbrol stuff . . .

[@LuisFlores-cx8py]

@@ModelMinutes definetly reccomend it! Also hiii I love love love your videos they're absolutely wonderful

[@Reactordrone]

For what it is, tube glue is probably the most expensive glue out there. Fairly expensive on a per ml basis and with a much higher loss from the method of application. Ok to have if you get it in a starter set but if you're spending money the Tamiya and Mr cement options are much better value.

[@ModelMinutes]

yeah, i never buy tube cement (mostly because I have loads from all these sets anyway)

[@wernerbrits5860]

I have started using the AK quick cement. Initial thought, it is comparable to the Tamiya.

[@ModelMinutes]

interesting

[@Supermarine-Spitfire-mk-IX]

I prefer Testors gel glue, and acrylic/plexiglass glue, as it works well for windows.

[@ModelMinutes]

vcan't say i've seen that one

[@kentstansberry9748]

Do you refrigerate them?

[@ModelMinutes]

no, why?

[@toddalexander5015]

I must be the only one that regrets getting Revell. I've never been able to keep the needle clear, it drips like crazy on war gaming minis, and the cure time is excruciating. Trying to build a skeleton army was aggravating and it sucked the fun out of it.

[@ModelMinutes]

sorry to hear about your struggles with that cement

[@APlaneGuylol]

I have never used tamiya glue as it is slightly harder to find in store. i use the humbrol equivilent it is thicker but not as good finish and not as good brush

[@ModelMinutes]

Yes, tamiya extra thin can be hard to find at times but I have been fortunate to see the odd bottle here and there. Humbrol liquid poly does work ok but can be a little messier

[@APlaneGuylol]

ahh thanks@@ModelMinutes

[@16jan1986]

What about locktite glue ....build plenty of sets with that

[@ModelMinutes]

That’s not a plastic cement though… it’s cyanoacrylate

[@MrPDoff]

Extra thin and Contacta for me everytime they are my go to cements

[@ModelMinutes]

yeah same!

[@julianmhall]

In summary, the right tool for the right job but at a pinch any tool is better than no tool :)

[@ModelMinutes]

yup :D

[@RupeshSaxena]

unfortunately none of them is available locally in India.. 😢, its quite costly as most of cost is of import duty

[@ModelMinutes]

that's a shame

[@DriplordVR]

Only if the Revell titanic 1:570 scale model came with paint and glue 😂

[@Coolcatzz2323]

Can you wash your hands after using cements

[@ModelMinutes]

Why wouldn’t you be able to wash them?

[@Coolcatzz2323]

Oh ok will I got a model I got some cement on my hands

[@Dabeast984]

I didn’t understand the difference of the differents tamiya cements

[@ModelMinutes]

basically the same, but some are thinner than others

[@Dabeast984]

@@ModelMinutes ah thank you

[@hanssmidt12]

Hello an other uselful video

[@ModelMinutes]

Hey, thanks :D

[@West_Midlands.Trainspotting]

I doesn’t matter the brand! They all taste the same to me 😋

[@ModelMinutes]

Fair enough!

[@deanburn3400]

Sorry mix it in a small glass airbrush bottle. It should turn into a white kind of thick liquid may be worth a try.

[@ModelMinutes]

yeah, a glass bottle would be safest haha

[@EPKF]

yo uso mig ultra thin cement , revell contacta clear y revell contacta profesional

[@ModelMinutes]

thanks for the info!

[@Maxtherocketguy]

I use pure acetone

[@ModelMinutes]

wow!

[@Maxtherocketguy]

@@ModelMinutes it dries very quick,but is thin like Tamynia thin glue and is also strong

[@ukdave57]

Well just to be different I prefer Deluxe Materials Plastic Magic. Revell Contacta second.

[@ModelMinutes]

nice!

[@ET42Driver]

As for revell contacta glue with needle. Just pust a piece of wire inside the needle when not used. That plastic cap it comes with is useless.

[@ModelMinutes]

good tip!

[@buysncharge]

Just acetone is all I've used. Cant find anything else.

[@ModelMinutes]

sounds pretty intense

[@buysncharge]

@ModelMinutes government banned a bunch of stuff. Makes it hard to buy things like MEK or butyl ethers. Plus no hobby stores.

[@anthonymitchell3225]

I too used the Humbrol liquid cement and the brush was too large and poor quality, glue is good though

[@ModelMinutes]

glad to hear it wasn't just bad luck on my part then

[@anthonymitchell3225]

@@ModelMinutes certainly wasn't, also the glue is not as effective as it runs out, the Revell glue is good to use I would agree but like yourself I find the needle clogs up, will be trying the Tamiya though, thanks for your video's, liked the recent one on paints and have decided to try the Vallejo colours

[@ModelMinutes]

@@anthonymitchell3225 thanks 😊

[@piotrekszczepanski5125]

there's only 1 thing to know when it comes to cement. never buy humbrol.

[@ModelMinutes]

it's not the best, but it will do the job

[@piotrekszczepanski5125]

@@ModelMinutes yeah true. i never use mine because i have the tamiya thick cement but it can come in handy.

[@JASHVEER22]

for me humbrol> Ak interactive cement

[@ModelMinutes]

really? I've not tried AK so can't say

[@TheInnacity]

Product Safety Causes serious eye irritation. Warning Causes serious eye irritation. Causes skin irritation. May cause an allergic skin reaction. May cause respiratory irritation. didnt mention these issues at all !

[@ModelMinutes]

I think that most people are able to read labels on these products when purchasing them in the shop. Was highlighting these aspects really a necessary aspect of the video? Edit: if you feel I’m not doing a good enough job, I’d be most grateful if you could go back through all of my videos and list all the safety issues with every single paint and modelling product, and tools, so that others might be aware 😊

[@TheInnacity]

@@ModelMinutes Yesterday a acquaintance built there first ever model kit , shortly after there in casualty with a breathing problem , highlighting a hazard of the substances used in the glue one of the issues overlooked :

[@ModelMinutes]

@@TheInnacity I’m sorry to hear that, sounds like they were particularly sensitive to the chemicals in the paint, something that probably wouldn’t have been known just from reading the warnings

[@TheInnacity]

@@ModelMinutes the person didn't paint

[@ModelMinutes]

@@TheInnacity I meant cement product

[@Sgt-lott10]

Testors model cement does the job but will not bond Airfix figures

[@ModelMinutes]

yeah, there aren't many glues that do - it's because they are made out of polypropylene or something like that - a bit more rubbery than normal polystyrene

[@Sgt-lott10]

@@ModelMinutes if these mortar crew break off from the base one more time I’m using a soldering iron to melt the pegs into the base

[@ModelMinutes]

@@Sgt-lott10 get some fine wire, heat the end and push it inside one of the legs of the figures, then use that to stick it into your diorama base 😊

[@Sgt-lott10]

@@ModelMinutes thank you

[@bradster1708]

There are a number of ways to glue "bastard" plastics with varying degrees of success; Tamiya make a primer for bonding PP, PE and POM plastics. Using CA with accelerator will sometimes bond plastics which cannot normally be glued. Thin CA poured onto baking soda can also work very well and cures almost instantly. I also like the idea of omitting the base or replace the base with a plastic you can glue to improve the odds of adhesion.

[@GJCorby2007]

You really shouldn't be "smelling " your cement.

[@ModelMinutes]

i think it's unavoidable

[@That1Redhead28]

Revell is so bad I’m convinced it’s just straight water

[@ModelMinutes]

hmmmm