From Enamel to Acrylic, Humbrol to Vallejo - Let's talk about my experiences with PAINTS!

[@ednitram]

Never in the field of scale modelling was so much made available by so many (brands) to so few (modellers).

[@ModelMinutes]

very true! We shall paint them on the workbenches, and on the kitchen tables, and In the living room . . .

[@ednitram]

@@ModelMinutes we shall never surrender ( our pots)

[@thomaswin5535]

The opening of Aces High starts playing.

[@henryblake-hatton9190]

and even if which I do not for a moment believe this island or a large part of pigment was subjugated and blocking and the finish beyond the seas armed and guarded by the varnish would carry on the struggle until in gods good time the new paint with all its power and might steps forth to the rescue and the liberation of the model -winston Churchill

[@henryblake-hatton9190]

@@ModelMinutes I think this is the best thread ever

[@kennethjames9416]

As a brush painter I have tried all the paints on your video and more besides. They all have their pros and cons but for me Humbrol enamel is the best overall, it covers well and leaves less brush marks.

[@ModelMinutes]

Yeah, thanks to that long drying time. I’ve found that acrylic paint correctly thinned can be just as good too 😊

[@mh53j]

Never had problems airbrushing Humbrol, always use Humbrol thinner with it.

[@Rundomguy]

@@ModelMinutes hello.Do you know how to thinn tamiya’s acrylic for no brush marks?

[@ModelMinutes]

use tamiya acrylic thinner and when applying it just make sure it self levels on the model before it dries

[@Rundomguy]

@@ModelMinutes very,very big thank you!I was looking for answer,and i finally found it)))

[@Ratel90IFV]

Thank you this is probably the best paint guide on KZbin I've seen

[@ModelMinutes]

I’m glad you think so…. It was just me talking about my experiences. I could probably edit something better with more information in the future

[@neilhaas6024]

That's interesting stuff Matt, all the kinds of paints for kits models.

[@ModelMinutes]

I'm glad you enjoyed it :D

[@greggregson9687]

Thanks for the great video. The older Humbrol pots (the screw top one you showed is an example) went to rubbish. They were made in China, and many people I know gave up on them during that era. The taller, newer bottle (where you describe them being better) was the new UK made stuff, and is much better, same with the paint in their new dropper bottle range. I myself started with Humbrol enamels too, and still use them for most of my projects (along with Revell, Colourcoats and Tamiya enamels). I know them extremely well by now, and can get the best out of them. That being said, I flirt with acrylics, and enjoy using them for interiors, figures and so on. I almost converted to acrylic fully once, but was stopped by circumstance. When I found Polly Scale acrylics, I couldn't believe how good they were, and started buying and using them for everything. If anyone has used these here, they will know what I am talking about, and this is during the days when Humbrol enamel was still incredible paint (I still use Humbrol enamel, and I know how to get good results from them, but seriously, they aren't a patch on the ancient stuff, lord only knows why). Pollyscale could be brushed over bare plastic, left nary a brush stroke, covered brilliantly, and stuck like something nasty to a blanket. Of course in the modelling paint world, if something is awesome, it inevitably gets killed off. Testors bought Polly scale and then quickly killed off the line so that is couldn't be a competitor to their own paints (which were inferior). Acrylics I have since tried; Revell Aqua (excellent once thinned, but poor range), Humbrol (original ones that started in the 80s and went till the late 90s/early 2000s were pretty good. The new ones at first sucked, but came ok once the new tall pot and dropper bottle paints came out), Vallejo MC (great range, fairly good to brush, separating issues, bubble issues, weak adherence to the model), Model Master Acrylic (like a somewhat crappier Polly scale. Pretty good with a brush, but weaker coverage and poor range), Tamiya (good paints, good coverage, easy enough to avoid brush strokes, adhere well, poorish range, let them dry enough before painting the second coat, and don't over brush otherwise the bottom layer can re activate and lift off), Citadel (good paint and brushes well. Range is terrible for historical models. Price is skyhigh), there are a few others, but none worth mentioning really. If only Polly scale returned, everything would be perfect in paint world again...

[@ModelMinutes]

Thanks for the fantastic info! Yes, new humbrol paints are much better than the old ones

[@douglasw.7864]

Thank you for mentioning Polly Scale. Those were the first acrylics that I truly liked. A shame they’re no longer around.

[@ShuttleFactoryScaleModels]

Man, that sucks you caught a summer cold; get well soon Matt! On the subject at hand, I have used a few paint brands motioned in this video (like Vallejo, Tamiya, Humbrol Enamel). And a few other acrylic brands not seen in the video (like Citadel, The Army Painter, Italeri and Scale 75). Long story short, I love acrylic paint….and try to avoid enamels. Like you Matt, I started out on the Humbrol enamels as a kid. And had to clean my brushes in turpentine. Wish I had access to odourless thinner to clean back then. The late great Bob Ross was right when he said “Be sure to use odourless paint thinner. If it's not odourless, you'll find yourself working alone very, very quick” ………no one wanted to be around when I had to clean my brushes! I love acrylic paint since its much less toxic to work with (since I don’t have to use the turps!). Vallejo Model Color & Vallejo Color is my go-to. But sadly, there I can’t always get the colours I want. So, I’ve used Italeri Paints (which are meant to be repacked Vallejo Colors), Citadel, The Army Painter, and one or two Scale 75 paints. Which is very brush friendly. I like Tamiya paints, (love the metallic colours) but in order for them to work with a paint brush. You need to add a few drops of Tamiya Paint Retarder. Since in certain room temperatures, they will dry out too fast. Tamiya acrylics are more for airbrushing. Anyway great video Matt!

[@ModelMinutes]

Thanks! Those are some very good points :D

[@thejoseph69]

AK Interactive paints are actually pretty good. I recently bought the MERDC set, and I'm pretty impressed (coming from using Testor's (Model Master), Tamiya, and Academy paints.) Vallejo paints are good, but fairly expensive here in the states (20 USD for 3 paints in a set.) If Rustoluem hadn't discontinued the Testor's and Model Master paints, I'd probably still use them, however.

[@ModelMinutes]

Good to know!

[@Tony-ip3mo]

Rustoleum is still producing testors paints, they just discontinued Model Master

[@leddyzee247]

Just started using an air brush, this is so helpful, very tempted with the Vallejo range, many thanks 👍

[@ModelMinutes]

Glad it was helpful! I enjoy the model air range from vallejo for airbrushing, but on occasion they may require a little extra thinning

[@leddyzee247]

@@ModelMinutes That’s useful to know, many thanks, love the channel

[@MOS6510Models]

Yes mate.. Hataka all the way.. Incredible paints

[@ModelMinutes]

Apparently so!

[@PeteCourtier]

Hataka lacquer 🥰 or Tamiya XF with levelling thinners, also 🥰

[@ModelMinutes]

@@definitelymabe2311 please don’t spam your questions, I’ve already answered this on the first video you commented it on

[@definitelymabe2311]

@@ModelMinutes thank you for your help

[@calvinl5726]

No

[@felicerobertofontanive4881]

Proud to listen the best englisch spoken from a real Englisch voice

[@ModelMinutes]

haha thanks :D

[@felicerobertofontanive4881]

@@ModelMinutes please: it' s not a joke! Airfix, stay together since I was six year old and during the night i fright the dark.myfirst Airfix box was CSA infantry...during the night they Watch my room...old contemptibles

[@rickymorgan4829]

Hey Matt, thanks for sharing ur thoughts with us. For me as an airbrush painter the Vallejo colors are consider to be a option in the future. Actually I tried the ak real colors and I m very impressed. These colours are drying so fast, I can't believe it.

[@ModelMinutes]

I think AK are Lacquers and having tried the SMS lacquers they do dry really fast :)

[@epicforger12345]

The real question is which smells better? I would have to go for enamel

[@ModelMinutes]

probably vallejo acrylic :)

[@stevesstuff1450]

Yeah...but it takes SO long to fully dry and cure! Acrylics for me everyday.. now! When I was a kid back in the early 70s all we had was enamel paints, and turps to clean-off the brushes...jeez it used to stink!! But now, even as an adult, I don't want to wait 24-48 hours for the thing to fully dry (unless modern enamels dry quicker now!), before moving on and continuing the build/painting... ;-) When I was a kid, that never mattered:- Just slap it on, wait till tomorrow maybe to put the transfers (as they were always called back then) on, and then job done!

[@hanssmidt12]

@@stevesstuff1450 i think vallejo is the Best im using it on my Channel and vallejo paints dry fast with airbrush 15m or a bit morr

[@theblytonian3906]

I used to like the smell of humbrol polystyrene glue (metal tube) as was when I was a kid. Involuntary shiffer, all part of plastic modelling in the day. Can't say I miss it though. As I've aged I find I am affected by the odour or inadvertent dermal application of solvents, fuels or chemicals now. Tamiya Regular and Thin brush liquid brush on adhesives for me now, with Revell Contacta Pro with its needle applicator when I want/need poly.

[@theblytonian3906]

@@stevesstuff1450 Thin Humbrol (or Revell or Tamiya) enamels with enamel thinner and spray it, then they won't take nearly as long to evaporatively dry. Of course, they need to harden. Vallejo water based acrylics take longer to dry IMO, & forever (hyperbole) to harden. That's the singular thing I dislike about Vallejo and its ilk. Conversely, Tamiya acrylics are the middle ground. Easiest to spray and obtain a perfect result, dry quickly, don't take too long to harden. Remember all too well the childhood days of Humbrol tinlets and a brush was all we had, and any refresh thinning and all cleaning done with Turps. No low or no odour Turps back in those days.

[@mikesmith2905]

Storing the paint tins upside down allows paint to dry in any gaps to the thinners do not evaporate. Just doing 200+ 'knights and knaves' and getting fed up with having to go over them where the acrylics have not given a solid coat, so Humbrol enamels are my go to for toy soldiers! I find that acrylics seem to give a slight satin finish, not as flat mat as the enamels. I just tried some motor car spray paint for some 'desert' tanks and the results were fine, much faster than brush painting. The motorcar aluminium wheel paint from the pound shop gives a very nice silver finish, I used it for some flying saucers and it might be worth looking at for WW2 US bombers (but practice before applying it to an expensive kit).

[@ModelMinutes]

interesting idea!

[@BennyCFD]

Great video.............I wouldn't be surprised that Humbrol and Tamiya in those pots are made at the same factory. I think Humbrol acrylic and enamel are pretty good paints.

[@ModelMinutes]

Could be, thanks for watching

[@glencwilson]

Interesting comparison. It is easy to say brand x is better than y but really does depend on what you are doing and if they suit your style of painting. The Vallejo range are pretty good and the box sets good value especially the basic colour set. I really like Tamiya lacquers for both brushing and airbrushing.

[@ModelMinutes]

Yeah, that’s why at the beginning I do say this is just my opinion, I’m not trying to convince anyone to swap brands, just commenting on my experiences so far with them

[@Emdee5632]

My model paint collection started in the times that only a handful of brands were available in my local toy stores (when toy stores were in the habit of selling plastic model kits in stead of selling computer games). In my case Humbrol and Revell and I believe Tamiya. Only later, when I started visiting specialized shops selling model kits, the whole RC thing, etc. etc. did I find paints by other manufacturers. Vallejo has a large collection in most shops, unfortunately AK and Ammo MIG are a bit underrepresented and many other brands I've read about online, but have rarely seen them. I don't live in the US or the UK. Yes of course I can order from other brands online and occasionally I have done so but why bother. I have over a hundred Humbrol, Tamiya and Revell tinlets (tin, glass or plastic) so I don't feel the need to buy significant quantities from other brands. I still mostly handbrush my models, I know none of them will win prizes. Vallejo is great by the way.

[@ModelMinutes]

Thanks for sharing 😊

[@brianartillery]

I made my first model aircraft, the Airfix Walrus, in 1970. The only paints then were enamels, and I hated using them - I still do, except for the metallic colours. Then acrylics came along, and I've stuck by them ever since. I mainly use Citadel, as if you can ignore the weird names, then they are great paints - 'Mithril Silver', for instance - it's a perfect match for the alumimised dope used on inter-war RAF biplanes. Including an Airfix Walrus, I made a few months back.

[@ModelMinutes]

Awesome! Thanks for the info!

[@ryburnsjr]

Hello thanks for the review....I use Vallejo paints...and prime with tamiya fine primer

[@ModelMinutes]

Good to know! Thanks for watching :D

[@r.srailfilms2559]

Can't wait for it - I need some input on my penn central u25c scheme

[@ModelMinutes]

:D

[@wafflyfox7550]

Interesting opinion Matt! I respect it! Tbh I would use enamels for vehicles a lot of the time, however I would use acrylics (AK, Vallejo, Revell) for figures! And I would use a bit of both on dioramas! Once again, interesting video and I met some new paints and manufactures in this! Cheers 🍻

[@ModelMinutes]

Awesome!

[@bugler75]

Alclad II metallics are superb and come in a wide range and shades. They are the most realistic metallic that I’ve used. Great summary of the paints available. Tamiya and Vallejo are my primary brands but I’ve a little of everything ! All the best, Ian

[@ModelMinutes]

Thanks for the info!

[@danytalloen]

Hello Matt, maybe someone already mentioned it, after all I haven't read every single reaction. But it is possible to use the Vallejo brushpaint in an airbrush, I do it all the time, you just have to thin it enought (their own thinner works better than water for airbrush). Also, some of the Vallejo Air colors need a few drops of "flow enhancer" to prevent dry-tip.

[@ModelMinutes]

yeah, i use normal vallejo paints in the airbrush

[@birodude]

Nice one, Matt. It'll be good to see your view on each.

[@ModelMinutes]

:D

[@lesthiele4921]

Hi Matt, another great review, I at one time only used enamel and it was mainly Humbrol, and now I have changed over to using acrylics, either Tamiya or Vallejo and all through the airbrush. With the Tamiya paint I get two jars and thin one down, and Vallejo I will put a little thinner in first, I prefer Tamiya but their range is not as big as Vallejo, at time I do use Tamiya rattle can to undercoat/prime, take care and keep safe.

[@ModelMinutes]

Great to hear! I do enjoy the odd spray can as well :)

[@badbotchdown9845]

Exactly what I do and thought.

[@MrTelecasterIV]

I'm a brush painter and prefer to use Tamiya acrylics for the smoothest result. Revell acrylics are also very good for brush painting. I have tried Vallejo Model Colors and the Blue Line from Hataka which are not my thing. I've been painting for over 10 years with a brush and tested various brands, mostly its a personal preference.

[@ModelMinutes]

Thanks for the info!

[@TonyJ86]

Nice video Matt. I've never liked Humbrol at all, I've always found them way too grainy and here in Australia are just as expensive as other brands. Of all the paints I've used I find Mr Hobby lacquers to be the best but the fumes and clean up are a huge downside to them so I find myself using Vallejo quite a lot. I even spray Vallejo model color through the airbrush from time to time with pleasing results.

[@ModelMinutes]

Thanks for sharing!

[@BOABModels]

Interesting to hear your opinions on all of these - I never ventured far into enamel paints myself but did start with diddy Humbrol pots from starter sets. Funny that you didn't mention Revell aqua as I love brush painting with those paints. A little bit of water helps them go down level.

[@ModelMinutes]

I’ve only used a couple of the Revell acrylics so don’t really have much of an opinion on them at the moment

[@BOABModels]

@@ModelMinutes as someone who does a lot of brush painting too, I'd recommend them.

[@patricpeters9716]

Scale 75 paint is what I'd recommend you go for when painting figures, but be sure to use a good primer when painting figures, something like Krylon or Rustoleum.

[@ModelMinutes]

thanks for the info! Might have to investigate that brand

[@Kconv1]

@@ModelMinutes Scale 75 is really really big in the fantasy figure scene, D&D types, especially with 3d printed resin!

[@bobidit5886]

Vallejo all the way, cost, convenience, range and most go down well. An all round great product!

[@ModelMinutes]

I am quite happy with vallejo so far

[@makoajohnson2341]

The thing ive found with tamiya (my favorite paint) if you use like 90% isopropyl alcohol it dries extremely fast. I stick with their x20A thinner these days as it seems to help the paint level itself and dries smoother. Great video

[@ModelMinutes]

I also quite like using X-20A, seems to have the right balance of thinning and drying time

[@normansmith8184]

What ho, I'm new, I caught one of your videos by chance and thought it very easy to watch and listen so here i am! Anywho I am a Vallejo fan although I can still find a use for good ol' Humbrol. But being an authenticity freak I do find it a tad disturbing with colour converter sites being woefully misleading and have a few pots that at best will be used to mix in with others (hopefully). Nice video and am about to watch some more. Cheers.

[@ModelMinutes]

Thanks and welcome :)

[@Aardvark-dk]

I use a mix of Tamiya, Vallejo and Hataka acrylics, they are excellent. I used to, like you matt, use Humbrol enamels....they were bad, and difficult to work with..and quite smelly.

[@hanssmidt12]

I use vallejo tamiya, ammo, revell and i like vallejo and ammo most

[@hanssmidt12]

@Jonáš Prušek yeah vallejo is good i never tested hataka

[@megawave79]

I absolutely hate the tamiya paints.

[@hanssmidt12]

@@megawave79 why?

[@definitelymabe2311]

@@hanssmidt12 Can anyone help I'm just getting into doing model planes I'm using brush to put the paint on using humbrol enamel I'm doing a spitfire but instead of the usle dark earth and dark green I want to paint it with the dark green but don't know what number or colour for the blue/grey would appreciate any help thank you

[@jamdiversified9698]

New subscriber here, love your style of model making video, it has inspired me to get a few models and give them a proper go after the few abominations I attempted as a kid 20-30 years ago. It's a great time to be into model building with all the free and easily available information as well as now being an adult I actually have money to spend on this stuff! I do have one question though, where or how do you display all of your finished kits? It would be great to see an overview video of your finished models. Cheers mate keep up the awesome work!

[@ModelMinutes]

Currently, space is a problem. Some of my kits are displayed on a shelf whilst others are sadly in storage :(

[@jamdiversified9698]

@@ModelMinutes ah well, just like being away from the mrs for a while, it’d be fun to see them again!

[@Steelbackuk]

Being hairy stick devoted . I would recommend the blue line serries from hataka as they are designed for brush . Top video as normal.

[@ModelMinutes]

Thanks! Yes, I would be interested in checking them out at some point

[@tomroland2315]

Hi, I like Hataka Blue Line too but can't find a stockist who sells individual bottles rather than sets. They seem to be hard to get hold of. Any ideas? Thanks

[@iprovedthem5527]

I wish I'd found this video before I tried Tamiya paint on the model I'm brush painting right now. I didn't thin it and had to sand the area back and repaint it because it was really clumpy and rough. Saying that, I'm glad I got back into the hobby during the KZbin era because the number of mistakes I've made due to a lack of knowledge is so much lower than when I was building models in my teens. I did, however, bite off slightly more than I could chew by trying to light a model as well. Hopefully it'll work out.

[@ModelMinutes]

yeah, tamiya paints are alcohol based and need thinning with an alcohol based thinner for best results - otherwise they will clump

[@adandap]

A couple of comments from me (also a brush painter). 1. I find that the Vallejo Model Air paints brush very well - in fact, I prefer them to the Model Color paints. They usually need two or three coats, but that's fine. 2. I really like Humbrol acrylics, but I think it's well worth getting the dedicated Humbrol acrylic thinners. That works much better that water in my experience.

[@ModelMinutes]

Thanks for the tips!

[@davidhinkson8856]

I haven't used Tamiya paints, but I have found Testors, Revell and Vallejo quite good and never had any real issues with them. I have used Humbrol in the past, and I found that their gloss white turns a shade of yellow over time (that was some time in the 1980s, don't know whether that is different now). But it is an interesting video highlighting the different brands on the market and your experiences with them.

[@ModelMinutes]

Yes, their gloss does yellow sadly

[@valleyforge1]

I used to paint with Enamels and was never happy with the finish. I started modelling again after 40 years and experimented with different things. Not on the kit; of course. I use Vallejo sets that are pre-mixed and they are a joy to work with. The black primer is really good to. I have used Tamiya and thinned it with IPA to use in the airbrush. This can be hit and miss; with certain colours. Especially with metallic. I have used enamels in the airbrush and thinned it with white spirit, that works really well. I have thinned the started kit paints and used them for the invasion stripes on one plane; just cant remember what I thinned them with, but it went on great. I also find that Vallejo matt varnish works well with Vallejo airbrush cleaner to give a really nice finish to aircraft.

[@ModelMinutes]

thanks for the info!

[@reefhog]

The best thing to use to thin Tamiya acrylics is Mr Colour Levelling Thinners.

[@samb2052]

I suppose ranking your paints depends what the model will be used for. Acrylics are much better on gaming figures and models that will be handled frequently. Otherwise enamels. Next I’d consider how you want to apply the paint. For brush painting I like Vallejo and AK Gen 3. For the airbrush, Tamiya is definitely my favourite. I can’t remember where I got the tip, but topping up the pot by adding X20A when you first buy the pot thins it perfectly. Never have a problem with it. All the other paints I’ve tried have caused me a problem sooner or later, including Model Air. I’ve just discovered ICM paints which seem pretty good so far, although not tried through the airbrush yet. Great video.

[@ModelMinutes]

thanks for sharing!

[@lewistaylor1965]

Tip...Buy some small cheap ball bearings and pop one in all your paints for mixing by shaking...Re-use them too...Great to see the difference in the Hurri and P40...The P40 looks very professionally made....I bought a spray kit and used vallejo polyurethane acrylics for the first time with homemade thinners...Big difference from brushing Humbrol enamels....Thanks for the video...Very informative...

[@ModelMinutes]

Great tip!

[@christosswc]

I've come back into scale modelling after some 37 years, I built literally hundreds of them when I was a kid. Back then I used revell enamels, didn't know what acrylics were. On my return I purchased a bunch of Vallejo acrylics and they are quite nice but I found myself drawn back to Revell enamels and so I am looking to use those for large surfaces and use the acrylics for the smaller surfaces and quick touch up work. Though I can still use the enamels for this, detail work I do not need to thin the paint and can work right out of the pot, still it is so much more convenient to just use a drop of the Vallejo and close the cap and not have to worry about it drying out. Or accidentally tipping it over and spilling everything👀 I only use brushes so,at the end of the day, it's not pro work and it doesn't matter what type of paint you use so long as you use it efficiently.

[@ModelMinutes]

thanks for the info!

[@Joesoe06]

Looking forward matt👍👍

[@ModelMinutes]

Thanks 👍

[@deaks25]

My most recent kit I used Vallejo Model Colour paints on and was reasonably impressed and it wasn't overly expensive either. I normally use Humbrol paints, mostly because I know and am comfortable with the colour range and get results I'm happy with, but I do try to keep an open mind. I've found enamels thinned with white spirit do airbrush really nicely (At least from the perspective of a relative beginner). Tamiya paints I avoid as they seem to not go with primers/thinners/lacquers that aren't also Tamiya and I use mostly Halfords rattle cans for that kind of thing.

[@ModelMinutes]

thanks for the info! I really enjoy my Vallejo paints at the moment

[@raytheron]

I grew up with Humbrol, then the occasional Testors (all that was available in South Africa in the 60s and 70s), but since returning to the hobby about seven years ago, my go-to paints have been Vallejo, then Tamiya and after that GSI Creos (Mr Color and Hobby Color) and I really like the latter two. I have a few AK paints which are also good, and MRP which is fantastic, but they are lacquer based and smelly and expensive, but absolutely amazing.

[@ModelMinutes]

thanks for sharing!

[@doczoff5655]

I don't like buying paints online because they look different on screen, so after my last local model store closed down my only choice was Citadel paints from Game Workshop. Very thick straight from the pot and I found that thinning with water gave inconsistent results, but then they added Lahmian Medium to their range which for me was a total game-changer. I suddenly felt the paint worked for me rather than against me... I just find this combination an utter joy to use for brush painting and the results are fantastic. Yes Citadel paints are very expensive, but they use very good quality pigments, so one pot of paint will go a very long way when thinned with Lahmian Medium. Usually I just need to buy the medium, it's pretty uncommon that I actually run out of a colour. Not an objective viewpoint as I have nothing to compare against (though the fact that I binned my Humbrol paints speaks for itself) I just really like it! (which is lucky!)

[@ModelMinutes]

I dont tend to buy citadel paints, even the big wargaming modellers tend to use other brands :P

[@davidcole8268]

Taking the longer view: Humbrol flip tops have poor seals and dry out. Tamiya screw top jars - lids stick and become impossible to unscrew as well as drying out due to solvent volatilisation. Humbrol screw tops - lids also stick solid. Humbrol tinlet enamels - I have some where the pigments separate out to the extent it is impossible to remix them. Agreed - Vallejo the tops. They can’t dry out and the dropper allows you to dilute accurately with water if you are hand painting. Thanks for a useful guide 😊

[@greggregson9687]

The newer Humbrol flip tops don't tend to dry out (so far) but the first new ones were terrible. Tamiya jars do get stuck when you shake them, but as I never shake, only stir, I don't get this proble. If you DO get this problem with the tamiya lids, immerse them in fairly hot water, and after a few minutes, you can twist them off. Clean the lid after this by either scraping it off, or using alcohol to clean the tamiya paint off. It is always possible to remix the Humbrols. I have had especially bad cases that took upwards of 10 minutes of stirring, so I understand how someone might think it was impossible, but trust me, it can be done. Anyone that wants to stick with them and not have an occasional stirring workout, buy a small, battery operated coffee frother. Take the frothing bit off the end, bend a small L in the wire, and use it as an electric paint stirrer, after prying the paint thick from the bottom and sides of the tin.This speeds the process up and helps to keep away any RSI. Vallejo has a wonderful range, and their paint is fairly easy to brush. However, I am not a fan of dropper bottles, and I like to stir my paint, not shake it and fill it with air bubbles. I also find Vallejo to be very easy to damage once it is on the model. While I am usually an enamel guy, I have found Revell Aqua, Pollyscale (defunct), Model Master (also defunct) to be excellent acrylic paints. If Pollyscale had continued, I would have eventually converted to them from enamels, but they were bought by Testors and subsequently destroyed to stop competition.

[@mh53j]

I used Humbrol enamels that had been sitting for years... some still had the old letter/number system... mixed them up and they were just fine. Just have to keep the lid/opening clean so it seals properly.

[@ModelMinutes]

Thanks for the info!

[@ernestgalvan9037]

Screw-top bottle lids stick because the threads get liquid left on them, and dry out. Clean the threads COMPLETELY (bottle & lid), and no sticking. And a tip for screw-thread maintenance… When you first open the bottle, COMPLETELY clean the inside of the lid. When done dispensing the liquid, COMPLETELY clean the bottle threads, place a piece of thin plastic sheet (think cling-sheet, wrapping stuff, eg Reynold’s Wrap) over the opening, and cap off. The plastic sheet keeps the liquid off the inside of the lid, so it’s always clean.. just the bottle threads need cleaning. And notice I said ‘liquid’.. this is not unique to paints… most all liquids will cause lids to stick if not cleaned off.

[@KapiteinKrentebol]

Thanks, this is very helpful. 30 years ago when I last build models I used revell enamels mostly. Hated those tin jars, you'd lose most of the paint cleaning those damn things.

[@ModelMinutes]

I can imagine! I'm glad you found it helpful

[@Tormento98]

What is the best? I really dunno. You can paint very nice results with Revell and Humbrol Enamels. For brush painters as well. Actually i use Acrylics from Tamyia and Enamels from Humbrol and Revell. I am still happy with them :-)

[@ModelMinutes]

Thanks for sharing!

[@tomroland2315]

I really like Hataka Blue Line but it's hard to get hold of if you just want individual colours, they actually had the exact shade for the cockpit interior of a MiG 21 I was building. I use Vallejo fairly extensively. One thing you can do is add a metal ball to the dropper bottle to improve mixing, I bought some recently for that purpose. I found out that the agitator in spray cans (the rattle) is shaped like a flying saucer rather than just a metal ball. Have to see what's inside the Hataka bottle when it's empty.

[@ModelMinutes]

I've known some people to add bits of sprue to their bottles to act as agitators

[@kenhanson1819]

Great video, Matt! Your P-40 looks fantastic! My favorite paints at the moment are MRP and Hataka Orange range (both laquers). For acrylic brush painting I'm still using Pactra Acrylic enamels, which is a water based paint that was bought out by Testors and then discontinued. These paints are from the late 80s and are still going strong. I also like Model Color for figure painting, but haven't tried Model Air yet. I like the Tamiya paint and if I'm going to do chipping, I thin with X-20A. If it's something I need to be more durable, I thin with Mr. Leveling Thinner. The only newer paint I didn't get along with is Mission Models. Really was not happy with how it airbrushed, even after following the recommended mixing ratios and using their thinners. Too much faffing for my liking. It does brush paint wonderfully, though, so I'll use up the few bottles I have using it for brush painting.

[@ModelMinutes]

Thanks for the info! I'll have to keep these points in mind

[@leewhite2195]

I got a brilliant finish using the supplied humbrol acrylics on a 1:48 spitfire.I lightly grey primered first with an acrylic auto aerosol,then brushed three or four watered down thin coats of the colour.Lightly 1000 grit wet and dried and then polished with black car polish.Theory being that the black wax would highlight the panel lines,which did work but to a lesser degree than I would have liked.Used a matt black auto aerosol for wheels,props etc.People can't believe it's hand painted,unless they're just being polite. The 109 that came with it didn't come out quite so well becase I ended up applying too much paint trying to get the mottling looking right,, but still happy with it. I bought a cheapo set of acrylics from The Works for blending and small details which don't really justify buying a whole pot of a rare colour.Actually,the nose on the messerschmitt looks far too light a yellow and I always meant to repaint it with a bit of red added to the yellow that came with the kit.Needs to be more mustardy.Oh yeah,a silver auto aerosol comes in handy too. I would never go back to enamel paint. Shout out for Quick Kits who taught me about the most important thing.Diluting the paint.😄

[@ModelMinutes]

Sounds pretty cool!

[@hartleymartin]

Paints have come a long way in recent times. 20-something years ago your choices were usually Humbrol Enamels and Tamiya Acrylics. I always had better results brush painting with the Humbrol enamels, which also tended to dry very close to their colours when wet. I find that Tamiya tends to darken when drying. Nowadays you can find loads of stuff about model paints on the internet, and frankly, I was missing out by ignoring wargamers and mecha modellers. Started using Tamiya Lacquer rattle cans - one colour I need is ONLY available in rattle can - and I really like Tamiya's primer. Just tried my first air brush and I think it is a game changer

[@ModelMinutes]

yeah, airbrushing is a whole other world lol

[@ukaszbadura5670]

I am still looking for a good white paint and haven’t found it yet. I use Revell acryclic, humbrol and Tamiya. Recently I bought a couple of Vallejo and Hataka.

[@ModelMinutes]

I've used tamiya and vallejo with some succes, but yes, white is a really hard paint to do right

[@theblytonian3906]

I've used all you have there except the Kcolour and Hataka. 1. Not an enamel guy, although I do have some old Revell and Humbrol tins which for brush detailing only these days. 2. I'm an airbrush only man except for the obvious hand detail areas or small component on the sprues like cockpit parts. 3. So my preferred acrylics are Vallejo and Tamiya. I think Tamiya spray better than anything else, and fit the availability and price criteria. I use their dedicated X-11 thinners. Downside, they don't brush at all without their proprietary retarder, and are limited in their range of camouflage colours so you have to mix. 4. I also like Vallejo Model Air. I thin with Vallejo Reducer as necessary. Great for spraying. Thinned Model Color is OK for spraying, but great for brushing. I stick generally with Tamiya and Vallejo.

[@ModelMinutes]

thanks for sharing!

[@angelreading5098]

The secret of good painting with any brand of paint is a good surface primer,this will bring the full tonal values of the paint to light especially with difficult colours like yellow which these days does not contain the vital cadmium as it is now no longer used as considered dangerous,a first class primer surfcaer is Tamiya it goes a long way and you just need to give the model a quick dust coat after a bit of masking,then you can brush or spray as required,another tip is to throw away those useless pointed brushes and buy a decent set of artists quality flat squirrel hair or even sable,clean out every session by running through some baby soap between the bristles and they will last years and give a superb finish with little effort.Before you paint any model run it over with a tack cloth you can buy these from any colourmen and they last ages,the tack cloth will get rid of any surface residue from sanding and fingermarks as well giving the applied paint a good chance.So all of those paints are fine providing that you prepare the model first,incidently I love those Hataka sets they are very convenient and the colours are very accurate too and they brush out nicely as well,finally remember two thin flowing coats are better than one thick one.

[@ModelMinutes]

Yes, I think I need to start looking at primers. I do use them on occasion but have found that certain colours dont work quite as well straight onto the plastic. Thanks for the info :D

[@ernestgalvan9037]

Pointed brushes are not “useless”.. They DO have their uses, mainly for fine details…

[@epicforger12345]

I enjoyed this video I’d love to see this type of video for other modelling tools

[@ModelMinutes]

Thanks! I could certainly see about doing something else like this

[@AreeyaKKC]

Gotta try mr hobby mr color. Great paint. Hataka are some of the best.

[@ModelMinutes]

thanks!

[@TheClutchCraft]

Great video, I’ve just recently thought that you must have a big collection if you’ve been doing it for some time now, do you think we could get a tour of all your sets if they’re displayed?

[@ModelMinutes]

Sadly most my models are in boxes in storage

[@TheClutchCraft]

@@ModelMinutes ah okay tbh, I thought you would be someone to have a full wall of them, on display in neat cases, I was wrong 😂

[@ModelMinutes]

@@TheClutchCraft sadly I just don’t have much room to display things 🫠

[@TheClutchCraft]

@@ModelMinutes ah right, oh well lol. Also I really need to thank you, you have inspired me to buy/ build my own models and it’s one of those hobbies that I will really enjoy, also your too in mixing left over plastic with poly cement to make a filler really helped, once again thank you (I subscribed ages ago btw lol)

[@ModelMinutes]

@@TheClutchCraft glad I could help 😊

[@MOS6510Models]

I dunno if K colours are expensive really.. the size of the bottle you get will last a long time

[@ModelMinutes]

yeah, bigger bottle, costs more, it just feels expensive I guess, especially when you are used to buying paints around £2 haha

[@MOS6510Models]

@@definitelymabe2311 which brand of paints are you using

[@definitelymabe2311]

@@MOS6510Models humbrol enamel matt it's for the camouflage instead of the dark green and earth brown I was wanting to do it dark green and not sure if it's ocean grey or sea grey so the camouflage should look dark green and a blue kind of colour

[@ModelMinutes]

@@definitelymabe2311 this is the third time I’ve seen this comment

[@burgundypoint]

I think that Humbrol super enamels were super easy to use, gave very good results with just basic preparation. Good for begginers.

[@ModelMinutes]

Totally agree!

[@nheather]

When I started years back, enamels were the only option. In the UK I had a choice of Humbrol or Airfix - no contest, the Airfix enamels were terrible by comparison. I still think enamels are the best paint overall, they airbrush and hand brush very well and the finish is very smooth and durable - but I don’t use them any more purely because of the smelly and potentially harmful solvent for thinning and cleaning. Most of my acrylics are Vallejo and Tamiya but I do have some Hataka, Humbrol, Revell and Mig Ammo. I find Tamiya airbrushes very well but brush painting is very difficult as it dries so quickly so any overbrushing can damage the paint you have already put down. Most of my Vallejos are Model Colour but I do have some Model Air too. I do wonder whether Model Air is essentially the same as Model Colour just pre-thinned or whether there are other differences such as smaller pigments. I do find that Model Colour separate quickly in the bottle and take a lot of shaking to get useable, even with the ball bearing agitators that I put in all my bottles. I now have a paint shaker that helps a bit. The paint sets are nice but one thing that stops me buying more is that they often have duplicates across the set or worse have standard colours to fill out the set like black or white. For example I recently bought the French Napoleonic Infantry, then went to buy the British Napoleonic Infantry but found that there was so much commonality that it was better just to buy individual bottles. One inconvenience that, like many, I suffer, is that I don’t have a local hobby store that stocks decent paint. It would be great to be able to pop in and buy single bottles when I need them. Instead I must by online and to make the shipping cost effective I prefer to buy a number of bottles which often delays my purchase and project while I research what other colours (or other products) I can add to the order.

[@ModelMinutes]

thanks for the info!

[@johncater7861]

Now I don't know much but I think it depends on what you are painting and what kind of finish you are trying to achieve. I'm new to airbrushing and so I thought I would try Vallejo model color on a cheap car kit. In short, I shall not be using Vallejo on a car body again. So far as car bodies go, it seems solvent based acrylics or lacquers are the way if you are airbrushing. On a slightly different tack, some people are now using aerosol spray cans.

[@ModelMinutes]

I use spray cans all the time, it's easier to use than an airbrush and gives consistent results

[@alexanderk.8601]

while waisting time surfing older vids, i came across your paints-video. Doing modeling now for quite over 45 years i started back then with Revell enamel paints (the good old stinky ones :D), ending up now using Vallejo, AK Real Colors, Tamiya, still the Revell (both lines, enamel and acrylics), some Ammo of MIG and Mr. Hobby. As i do most painting with my airbrushes i prefer for most projects solvent based paints or lets call them hybrid ones like AK Real Colors and Tamiya. Never got in touch with Humbrol and Airfix paints as they are not to get here where i live. Also my usual online shops don't sell them. So don't know anything about these two brands about the qualitiy. Ranking them to my favourite brand, i would say AK and Tamiya first, then the Vallejo and Revell Enamel. For the Revell acrylics i can say, they have a really good quality, but are sometimes difficult to thin them down for the airbrush. But the pigments are great.

[@ModelMinutes]

thanks for sharing!

[@marcoramos5284]

Great review! How do you find vallejo for brush painting? Im considering to use them on my zero.

[@ModelMinutes]

I love it!

[@wadejustanamerican1201]

Thanks for the information. Get well soon!

[@ModelMinutes]

Thank you!

[@DavidLee-im8tg]

Nice summary of some of the basic paint ranges available in the UK 👍 I like the Vallejo ranges, both model and air, since the local Antics in town carries them. One question... Do/will you build helicopters? I got the 1/48 Hind from Antics last time I was there and it looks lovely, I'm not too bothered by the "lack of details"

[@ModelMinutes]

I've got some helicopters in the stash (check out my shash video to see which ones) that I wholeheartedly intend on building . . .eventually

[@binkbonusgbr]

Very interesting video. I'm relatively new to modeling but I found the Tamiya XF paints thinned with Tamiya X20A to be very good to use. I thin it quite a lot, so apply 5 coats or so. I currently brush paint, and the results so far have been pretty good - in my opinion of course! I'd be interested to know what varnishes you use with each type of paint you've shown. I've been using, the slightly strange choice, of the Pledge floor gloss. It's worked well so far with the above Tamiya paints but I would like to know of a good spray varnish (Gloss & Matt) that works with Tamiya XF. So much coflicting and confusing advice out there. Thanks again for your efforts. Always enjoy you videos..

[@ModelMinutes]

Thanks! Currently the Kcolors gloss varnish is my go-to pre-decal layer, and I'm quite enjoying the vallejo matt varnish (70.520) at the moment for the final layer. The humbrol satin and gloss varnishes are fine too, but their matt varnish tends to leave a white residue . . . Mixing with hot water will usually avoid it, but it's not the best

[@binkbonusgbr]

@@ModelMinutes Thanks very much for the extra info. I will take a look at the Kcolors paints and Vallejo varnishes. My only experience with Vallejo was trying to brush paint with the white colour and it was difficult putting it mildly!

[@sayeager5559]

Ive settled on Mr Hobby lacquer. I still use Tamiya but I imagine I will switch over to all Mr Color in the future. Their 1500 surfacer/ primer is amazing. It smells like Hell, but its worth it.

[@bk109]

Their disolved putty's is somehow even worse than the surfacer, but it's worth every whiff when you're dealing with poorly fitting/warped parts ( *glares* at a freshly painted Italeri UH-60). Come to think of it, outside of their acryllic thinner somehow producing a worse result than the Tamiya X20A (at least when it comes to brush painting), I can't really say anything bad about any Mr Hobby product I've gotten so far

[@ModelMinutes]

Mr Hobby paints seem difficult to get here in the Uk - at least I've never seen them in a shop that I can recall sadly :(

[@sayeager5559]

@@ModelMinutes I had been wanting to try the K brand for a long time, but was unable to find it anywhere over here.

[@bk109]

@@ModelMinutes I don't think I've seen them in a shop here in Ireland either, but luckily they are readily available online. If you shop around a bit, they can be found as low as 2 quid minus shipping, which usually gets spread out among multiple items. Speaking of multiple items, I may've thrown your 'stash' video under the bus as a justification to my wife that ordering 10 1/35 tanks is still "fine in comparison" XD

[@ModelMinutes]

@@bk109 haha that’s hilarious 😂

[@greggregson9687]

Just a little addition. I have read a number of comments complaining about the bad smell of enamel cleanup. I switched from white spirit/mineral turps to water based turps. I use the Bondall brand, but there are others. The best thing about the water based turps is that you can clean your brushes out in it whether you use enamel or acrylic. I have two jars of it handy; one for initial clean, and the other for final cleaning of the brush. No more jar of smelly white spirit sitting around.

[@ModelMinutes]

Great tip!

[@Simon_Nonymous]

Good bit of history here.. I don't use enamels anymore after starting in 1979, tried Tamiya in 1982 and stuck with it but changed to AK and Vallejo last year when I got back ino the craft.

[@ModelMinutes]

Sounds simliar to me :D

[@stuarttempleton43]

So, whilst Tamiya paints and Humbrol/Vallejo are both acrylic, as you picked out, they're not the same. Vallejo/Humbrol are water based and Tamiya are alcohol based - hence why the X-20A doesn't work well with Vallejo/Humbrol and water doesn't work with Tamiya, and hence why you get separation - but I suspect you knew that. Hataka blue and red line paints are pretty good paint for brush painting, I went over to them after I stopped using enamels. Really liking your channel, fast becoming one of my favourites.

[@ModelMinutes]

Thanks! Pretty sure I mention the mixing issues with x20a in the video . . I will use it on the other acrylics but only a small amount

[@hollyruston2444]

I've been very impressed with my results using Vallejo acrylics (airbrushed).

[@ModelMinutes]

Good to know!

[@stephenhowell5611]

Hi, I'm looking for a gloss midnight blue to airbrush BOAC aircraft models, do you have any suggestions ? I would like to avoid clearcoating. it all seems to be a bit of a minefield tbh. Cheers.

[@ModelMinutes]

Each company may make a slightly different shade, so worth checking which one is most suitable for your use. I did find the following: Humbrol 15 Midnight Blue Gloss (Available as enamel, acrylic or as a spray can) Mr Color Midnight Blue Gloss C-071 SMS Premium Midnight Blue PL57 (Lacquer) Night Blue Vallejo Game Color 72.019 Even in the real world there were variances on paint colours so it is conceivable that slightly different shades could be used as a result of what was available at the time

[@stephenhowell5611]

@@ModelMinutes Tell me about it, I used to work in car refinishing and colour variances were a pain, lol.Thank you.

[@ferdy4796]

Thank you for the informative video, I found it very useful and it helped me make up mind about going with Vallejo. I'm looking at brush painting so that means I would be using the Model Color range. In your opinion, which two colours best represent RAF camo (green and brown). Despite their names, I read US Dark Green and US Field Drab work well. What would you recommend? Cheers.

[@ModelMinutes]

I don't currently have those 2 paints (had been using hataka for those two particular colours) but if you look up conversion charts online i'm sure you'll find a close match

[@Al.Sulikas]

I use Italeri acrylics. Water thinnable, about 1,8 euro's for a bottle of them, come with a dropper. Seems consistent enough and good for paint brushing.

[@ModelMinutes]

I've never tried them, perhaps I will for a comparison

[@jangelbrich7056]

Interesting that You also started wiht a Hurricane model - I did too, in ca 1975. But learning that from my father, I only used enamel. And for a long time I thought there were no other paints ... or any other tools than standard brushes. Even today I am using enamel almost exclusively.

[@ModelMinutes]

I used to almost exclusively use enamel, but have discovered the benefits of acrylics in recent years

[@jangelbrich7056]

@@ModelMinutes I do have some acrylic paints now as well, but when You have no one else around You for the same hobby, like growing up in an isolated distant village, long before the internet, it is hard to learn new ways. i.e. change old habits. I am very bad educated about chemicals so I did not even know Acrylics were water based etc, or what the consequences would be when using. And so, my few tries using air brush were disappointing. And how expensive that equipment was to use one ... it is these old restrictions that let me continue enamel: I knew at least what to do with those. And, using it carefully, I think one can create models that can meet high standards like so many others do with Acrylics and airbrushing. I just say I admire all of those results. Greetings from Sweden

[@ModelMinutes]

@@jangelbrich7056 Thanks! Yes, it can be quite a learning curve using different paints. Not all acrylics are water based though, the Tamiya range for example is alcohol based and water isn't really enough to thin them, you need a specialist thinner with more alcohol in it. That being said, alcohol thinners tend to work well on water based acrylics too from my experience

[@jangelbrich7056]

@@ModelMinutes See, these are the explanations I did not have for most of the time, but which one would need to make good use of new ways. Either You need a mentor or some other kind of good reference material to read. And if one lacks both, then any progress is a game of rare random luck. The greatest advantage with the internet i that the world became _searchable_ after all, and that we can enjoy videos like these to get some inspirations.

[@coupergiuliano7486]

Thanks for answering my question during the premier.

[@ModelMinutes]

No worries, thanks for being there :D

[@strickersniper7909]

I ordered the airfix kms Bismarck which I will try oil paint on

[@ModelMinutes]

awesome!

[@Lv-sl3rm]

This video makes me miss PolyScale. Such a variety of railroad colors that I've found useful for aircraft and tanks....

[@ModelMinutes]

Humbrol have recently discontinued their railcolour range too

[@jasonmcdermott9891]

here they sell a lot of the revell paints. i like the enamel paints a lot. but i will try the vallejo now i think

[@jantimmer5558]

Vallejo is much better in my opinion

[@jasonmcdermott9891]

i will try them deffinetly. but i think with handbrush the enamels are really good if u thin them down. but i wil try the vallejo air (with my airbrush) on a 1/72 spitfire

[@ModelMinutes]

:D

[@gerrycoogan6544]

What "rules" are there for using a combination of acrylic and enamel paints on a model? In particular, what's the thinking behind locking in a layer of paint with a matt, satin or gloss varnish? Should you use the "opposite" type for varnish ( e.g. Oil-based varnish over acrylic paint)?

[@ModelMinutes]

as far as my experience goes, enamel and acrylic layers can be put on top of each other provided that they are completely cured. I've only experienced a few rare occasions where they have reacted in any way. I generally tend to keep a build "paint specific" though, and can build a whole model with just enamel, just acrylic or a combination if required. If you have any worries it would be worth doing a test on scome scrap plastic before doing it on a model

[@gerrycoogan6544]

@@ModelMinutes Am I understanding this correctly? Are you saying that I could apply an acrylic varnish over an acrylic paint scheme if I wait long enough for the paint to fully cure? There's no danger that the varnish layer would dissolve the paint layer and muddy the definition between different colours?

[@hynol]

You should try Humbrol before it was "super". I know - it has led, but coverage was amazing. The best paint for hand painting if you don't mind slow drying time.

[@ModelMinutes]

probably a bit hard to find that these days

[@KJ-kn8pg]

20 minutes late :(. Anyways, since I bought an airbrush (unbranded first and now I got a new sparmax) I tried Tamiya colors and I don't think I will use other paints for airbrushing except Gunze. But for hand painting I think Tamiya is bad choice and Vallejo(model color, the air color got bad coverage properties from my experience except black and white) is the way to go. Great video Matt!

[@ModelMinutes]

Thanks!

[@alfepalfe]

I will just use what I can find, I can for example easily find almost all the humbrol enamels so I tend to use them quite a bit. Also have you tried ak exteme metal? They look amazing in the videos I have seen but they only work for airbrushing so I have not been able to try them.

[@ModelMinutes]

I'd like to try the AK range at some point in the future

[@Rich77UK]

The best results I have had are also Valejo. I tried AK as well but they where not so good IMHO. Larger pigments and coverage was poor compared to valejo. I do suspect that it was user error.

[@ModelMinutes]

thanks for letting me know!

[@311pique]

that P-40 looks great! I don't understand why some hobbyists don't use vallejo acrilycs for base colors

[@ModelMinutes]

That's strange, I haven't really heard anything negative about vallejo yet

[@hattrick8684]

I’m new, I never knew Tamiya was alcohol based. I’ve been mixing with water, haven’t had any issues. I’ll try to find their thinner and give that a try, or maybe give alcohol a try see how it works.

[@ModelMinutes]

I find that using water causes Tamiya paints to clump

[@kevintan7973]

Very nice matt! Try some AK gen 3 acrylic colours, it is imo the best paint for brush painting ever. For airbrushing its not bad but is difficult to find the right balance between to sputtery and too dilute. But still great work!

[@ModelMinutes]

Thanks for the tip!

[@badbotchdown9845]

You need to use plastic drops syringe for dosing elements

[@Ducknuck84]

Back in the day when i was a kid only paints you could get were Testors enamels for modeling which is why i hate them with a passion. was such a breath of fresh air when i got back into model making to have Vallejo available

[@ModelMinutes]

very true!

[@9501599]

Interesting video and yes all I've used Humbrol paints because when I started, a few years ago....ohh 52 years ago..really that long😒? I have a battery mixer that I use prior to painting and its improved the paint. I like Tamya too. Its nice to have a choice. We don't have Velaho (spelling)here that I've seen

[@ModelMinutes]

Thanks for sharing!

[@mh53j]

Started using Humbrol enamels in the late '70s; has worked the best for hand and air brushing for me. Sometimes use XTRACOLOUR OR Colour Coats (White Ensign) if need a specific color like Royal Navy Helicopter Green. Never had much luck or liked acrylics, including Tamiya (Tamiya stinks to high heaven and make me sick... supposedly odorless!!!!) Only use acrylics for washes.

[@thekinksfan5102]

It seems that our brain blocks the strong smells after repeated exposure. I find enamel paints very smelly, as I don't use them. Still, I didn't have any problems using humbrol and revell enamels 30 years ago when I was a kid. First when I started using tamiya acrylics, they were stinky, now they have an almost pleasant fruity odor.

[@ModelMinutes]

thanks for the info!

[@JimmyJohnsCupSeries]

Do you have a method to get dust off of your models? My models have gotten really dusty.

[@greggregson9687]

immerse them in the sink with warm water and detergent, swish them around gently and then rinse them off under the tap. If you have unsealed pastels or weathering powder, you will have to redo it afterwards. If you are feeling lazy, put them under the shower. Dusting tends to break off small parts too easily.

[@ModelMinutes]

Gregs comment (although effective) is a bit intensive, I usually just use a soft, dry brush and remove the dust that way

[@hansjakobli78]

I don't know all of these brands but so far i have been very satisfied with Revell Aqua and Humbrol Acrylics for my airbrush. Don't want that enamel stuff in my house, the smell and the vapors are the reason really. Sidenote: Get well soon!

[@greggregson9687]

You should use an extractor for any airbrushing as the paint particles can and do travel.

[@felixrobert5268]

@@greggregson9687 Thank you for the advice, Greg! I do have a spray booth with a filter.

[@ModelMinutes]

Thanks!

[@maximolotov]

Ho Can i use this enamel revell enamel paint to paint bare plastic bumper of my car in black with sponge brush ? Will it last ? Is primer needed please ? How many hours between coats +17c or about +20 c Celsius

[@ModelMinutes]

I'd probably go for an automotive paint for a car's bumper. Enamel is quite a hard wearing paint, as long as the surface to be painted is clean then it should stick. Normally you need a couple of layers (sometimes one is enough though, if it is a small area) and it can take 12 - 24 hours to dry fully between layers. But as said i'd go for an automotive paint (probably a spray) personally

[@maximolotov]

@@ModelMinutes Thank you Already painted with it yesterday. 4 of them black gloss . Whole front bumper and half of rear bumper as well as it is also from bare plastic. 1 coat . 22 hours of drying already. Automative paints are in spray form only and i am terrible sprayer

[@ashleybishop9937]

I remember the dsys when Humbrol were the best and sometimes only paints avsilable, then Airfix brought out their own paints in a tall screw cap bottle. I still have a few of those tins and they still go on great, whst I have discovered now is that Humbrol have turned to rubbish, I find too many of the matt colours dry a semi gloss or don't go on too well sometimes requiring two or three coats. I've even told humbrol they are poor quality. Always have a Testors matt varnish on hand to fix them. Sad that once the leader they have slipped to 3rd rate. Often use Tamiya now but have been modelling for wargames, now thinking of going back to tge detailed modelling I started doing. This chsnnel has motivated me.

[@ModelMinutes]

thanks! Yes, having grown up with humbrol it is upsetting to see that they are unwilling to grow and improve, if anything they seem to be going backwards

[@julianmhall]

Matt have you done a video on technique? I've noticed in your builds you alternate enamel and acrylic / gloss and matt between paint and varnish.

[@ModelMinutes]

not a specific video on how i paint, but yeah, i do swap about a bit depending on how i feel at the time

[@julianmhall]

@@ModelMinutes sorry, I wasn't clear in my last comment. What I meant was alternating between the two in layers.

[@hansjakobli78]

Are the Hataka and/or Vallejo Modell Air colors thinned down with water or with alcohol? Thank you in advance!

[@ModelMinutes]

Water is better as the alcohol based thinners (although they work) tend to separate the paint pigments if too much is used. I do thin mine with Tamiya x20a but only with a small amount, opting to use water as well

[@MirehManuh]

if you can get your hands on armored komodo those work well (they have both solvent acrylics and waterbased acrylics)

[@ModelMinutes]

interestiing

[@sukhoisu-27flankerbdude92]

Better than my first kit

[@ModelMinutes]

just keep going, you'll get there :D

[@lancerevell5979]

I paint my models primarily by brush. My go to paints have long been Testors Model Master enamels. They had many colors in specific colors for WWII subjects, by nation. Now Rustoleum is killing off MM. Availability has dropped and prices skyrocketed. I am switching to Tamiya and Vallejo acrylics. There is a learning curve, but I am adjusting. My experience with Humbrol has been abysmal. I firmly believe Humbrol sends their old outdated stock to the US. I now avoid them like the plague.

[@ModelMinutes]

There are supposed to be new paints from humbrol coming in the future