Front CV Axles, Full Assembly Struts & Outer Tie Rods on a 1998 Nissan Maxima

[@telluride4017]

Well done! Thank you very much you earned my subscription

[@MegaMilesBen]

Thank you for watching!

[@lowkeydee4387]

I have this same exact car. If u have anymore videos please upload of this 98 maxima please. I wish I can love the video instead of liking , just by watching I can replace my outer-tie rod plus struts thanks man. ( I subscribe btw) keep up the awesome content

[@MegaMilesBen]

Thank you for watching!

[@mkrp4]

7:00 On my 87 Camry while changing axles I started with breaking the nuts loose; 8 mm Craftsman Allen wrench inserted into the gap between the brake rotor ribs and resting on the caliper bracket was strong enough to hold axle still during this procedure as well as during removal of axle nut

[@MegaMilesBen]

Yea, I often slip a phillips screwdriver in there. Youll see that when I torque the axle nut. These arnt nuts. Theyre bolts in a stationary bracket. Some of those toyota passenger cv axles are the hardest to do.

[@mountainbiker4450]

Thanks for this video. I need to do this on my Maxima. Question, do you have to disconnect the tie rod and lower control arm to do this? Seems folks do this both ways and as a DIY'er I'd rather not mess with something I don't necessarily have to. Many folks say just disconnect from strut, swivel to release the axle, and that's it. At best, they only seem to remove the strut for easier access. Also, I didn't note you replaced the grease seal on the transaxle. I have a MT. Is this recommended and do you need a set of drifts to drive in the new seal?

[@MegaMilesBen]

@mountainbiker4450 you dont have to disconnect the lower ball joint, no, you can do the upper strut bolts. I disconnect the tie rod to give the knuckle more play. For the seals, you really just need something that fits flush with the outer edge of the seal and then tap it in. I find myself using different tools for different cars on those.