Fulfilling my Obsession - Starfield Rattler Prop

Since the game's release, Bill has put over 100 hours into Starfield. There are dozens of things he wants to make, but the Rattler was an easy choice for the first build. Follow along in this build as he sets some lofty goals, tackles a bunch of 3D design, and sands a lot of 3D printed parts.
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Tools and Materials:
Anycubic Photon Mono X 6K - Amazon
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Siraya Tech Fast ABS-Like Resin
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Metric Drills and Taps - Amazon
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M2 Metric Tap - Amazon
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Shapeoko 4 - CNC Router
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Needle Files - Amazon
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Nail Files - Amazon
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Digital Calipers - Amazon
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T-Handle Allen Wrenches - Amazon
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Rotary Tool - Amazon
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Our Fancy Rotary Tool - Amazon
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Scotch Brite Rotary Bits - Amazon
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Double Stick Tape - Amazon
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Spot Putty - Amazon
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[@Meloshski]

This feels like a return to form from the old days

[@punishedprops]

I sure do like making space blasters.

[@theSilentWill]

I've been designing my props like a designer, but after watching your videos I've realized I need to design like an engineer! Absolutely amazing - you're a master!

[@punishedprops]

Thank you so much! =D

[@TheGrimmindustries]

I think some of the issues you might have had with the resin is that you're using a semi transparent. Resin that clings to the part because of surface tension is getting over exposed as the rest of the model cures. I suggest trying a white of light gray resin and make sure to do a resin calibration test to get the exposure time perfect.

[@punishedprops]

I experimented by mixing some opaque resin in with the transparent resin and the results seemed to improved. Definitely need to do some more tinkering to get my resin printing game on point.

[@colemanhansen206]

Love the Starfield quest overlay when going over what your goals were for the build! Happy to hear this might not be the last Starfield weapon you bring to life 😊

[@punishedprops]

Thanks, those took me a long time to make. 😂

[@codybgamin]

I don't know what I'm happier about - how _incredible_ this prop is, or the fact that someone else actually really likes Starfield. It doesn't deserve all of the hate it's gotten - it isn't perfect, but I got my money's worth and then some.

[@dillonjames00]

I love how relatable the sticky note with the credit card due dates on the monitor is! It is the 23rd, hope Chase got paid!

[@PeterKNoone]

Dude, that's amazing. Your patience for attending to the tiny details is heroic. Beautiful results. Thanks for the video!

[@punishedprops]

Thank you so much!

[@stuchly1]

Omg I've missed SO MANY videos! KZbin has finally decided to drop a notification even though I've got the bell clicked! Gonna binge all the things I've missed, amazing build!

[@punishedprops]

Buckle up! It's gonna be quite a ride! 😂

[@Sewf184]

I've actually been planning to 3D Model and render this exact Gun as a personal project. Now you've given me the satisfaction of having done it without having to do it myself haha. Thank you for that!!

[@jonr6680]

Such dedication, patience and skill... Fantastic attention to detail. But dam the random thrash metal audio mixed in with quiet conversation, we're not all delinquent teens, or deaf!

[@punishedprops]

\m/

[@coopervanbonn7525]

This prop has a higher quality than a hero prop from a triple-a action film. Truly, the best level of detail I’ve seen.

[@Finchyboi14470]

One thing that’s important to remember about resin printing is that it can be significantly less accurate than FDM. Depending on your resin, the parts might shrink, be warped, or otherwise inaccurate. If you need parts with a small tolerance between them, you might have better luck with a well tuned FDM printer.

[@jackpaxton9391]

I have been waiting for this moment for ever. There needs to be mroe starfield props!

[@punishedprops]

Yes! I'm doing my part! =D

[@peterclegg2609]

The best prop video I have watched bar none, cannot wait to build, already printing.

[@propsityourself8859]

Thank you for using the ingame model as a reference, i always do so in my designs, takes a while but it's so much more satisfying when you know you're going in the most accurate direction ! Gonna grab your model right away !

[@soiltek2015]

This is such a cool idea!! Love it!

[@MrMaximushaydos]

It would be awesome to get more tutorials like the ones that I got from the store with you Bill, I love supporting you guys for one but you are such a brilliant teacher. You started me learning Fusion 360 and I love it.

[@tobynobel5671]

Phenomenal job!

[@dennismour5204]

This is absolute incredible. Truly a masterclass in propmaking. Couldnt look any better!!

[@punishedprops]

Thank you so much!

[@mrbob0822]

The oil washes over the Tamiya metallics as well as the care put in to the wood hardware make this look so legit. Congrats on such a gorgeous build! Definitely worth all of the sanding and all of the detail work on the model.

[@punishedprops]

Thanks so much Kevin! 😄

[@TheIcemanModdeler]

Awesome, thanks for sharing.

[@MichaelBogaMusic]

Stellar work as usual!

[@DarioVidili]

Love the videos!

[@dragomirbaut]

Turned out very nice.

[@punishedprops]

Thanks!

[@Illztothathrillz]

This is so cool to see! Looks amazing

[@OMentertainment]

I assume I wasn't the only one to give this advice, but I'm glad that you are able to extract the model. Makes everything easier

[@AlbertoMartinez765]

Great Job!!

[@punishedprops]

Thank you!

[@joeschmoe76]

That's a fantastic piece!!!

[@punishedprops]

Thanks!

[@blackvx]

Well done 🙌

[@punishedprops]

Thanks!

[@johnwjensen]

Your attention to detail shames all other makers I've ever seen. Amazing work!

[@punishedprops]

Thank you so much!

[@ian3314]

Great job Bill and Brit. That looks beautiful and ya the wood parts with their matching grain is so satisfying. Great video!

[@punishedprops]

Thank you! I'm super proud of how the wood parts turned out.

[@donbrough6386]

Fascinating process - thanks for sharing

[@punishedprops]

You're welcome!

[@chuckthemaker]

Excellent build! Your attention to detail is inspiring, and a little intimidating... Can't wait to see what's next!

[@sirskeptic]

Your channel is like Hobbiton for me. No politics, no violence, just happiness and they joy of building.

[@punishedprops]

I like that! Hobbiton is one of my happy places. 😄

[@philabot]

That turned out amazing!!

[@punishedprops]

Thank you!

[@kennyH20]

So awesome. Really appreciate you sharing all your hard work with us. Learn something new each video.

[@kinslersrccustoms6945]

Love the work that you do and this gun looks awesome. What I am looking for from the game is a smaller size of all the ship parts from each of the major ship makers in game. This way we can paint each part and can make the same ships that we made in game but ones that we can hold in our hands. This way we can make a ship on the table and come up with something completely different and then do it in game. Thanks for sharing your videos with us.

[@matthewkapala9243]

Amazing work! The amount of engineering and time you put into designs really shows in the final product. Looking forward to seeing what y'all come out with next!

[@Zayllyaz]

Wow that looks so good, so much detailed work and it was super worth it

[@punishedprops]

Thank you!

[@CatsDontBark]

Fuck bro, keep your head up. You’re a value to the art community 100% here on YT. 🙏🏼 your way.

[@punishedprops]

Thank you so much!

[@pompompom2018]

Great video, great pedagogy, great subjet, great result!

[@punishedprops]

Thanks so much!

[@SpivJams]

SICK!!! It's really cool to see you implementing CNC in your build!!! I'm def not an expert but I used to design and mill molds (guns, knives, axes, etc) for a holster company and we would do adaptive clearing with a bigger bit (1/2 or 1/4" depending) to remove the bulk of material and then finish it with a couple parallel passes using 1/8" round bit. Might help remove some of that texture you were talking about but I'd probably still sand it manually either way lol. The lips on grip could be something goofy like if you have Fusion cut on the inside or outside of a contour edge, or if the geometry is too small for the bit you're cutting with it gets ignored entirely. Not real sure on that one. It's killer either way and so sick to see. Thanks for making this vid! 😁

[@punishedprops]

Thanks so much! I’m having so much fun with CNC.

[@MrPorten]

Hello! I’m new to the channel here, and really enjoy the content. I’m an artist, and make all kinds of junk and always enjoy learning a new process. - This lip issue can be fixed by expanding the bounding area on the part you are milling, while also throwing in a box or plane under your part with the top of that box being at zero on the z. The bounding area for the part only need to be large enough for the end of you mill (ball or taper) to pass the part and kiss the box underneath. Another method I use depending on the parts, still using a large bounding area, is to tell the machine to skim the clearance plane with clearance plane being set to zero. I’ve only ever worked in rhino cam, but I imagine there are some similar parameters in your cam. Anywho, hope that helps smooth them lips out for ya!

[@offearth3d]

Freaking killed it!

[@tolkienfan1972]

Love it

[@everett8435]

Awwwse yiss. Masterfully done, good sir!

[@punishedprops]

Thanks Everett! 😄

[@SlytherinReviews]

just a heads up you can hang the plate up inside the resin printer to let resin drip off back into the pool of the resin and then you can take the resin print off the plate to do the whole wash and cure section. Newer Resin printers will allow you to hang the resin print plate in them to let the resin drip back into the pool of resin

[@mikeberry9766]

Bill - glad you seemed to have re-discovered your 'yen' for these kinds of builds. I too have been playing a lot of Starfield and couldn't be happier for these kinds of videos/props! Keep up the great work!

[@punishedprops]

Thanks so much!

[@karenburns3516]

Watched this great channel from the very start I have so much love for this channel ❤loved this build.

[@punishedprops]

Thank you!

[@shymenoroeds7552]

Love it the art bring this stuff to life is amazing.

[@punishedprops]

Thank you so much!

[@versus023]

Looks amazing! Everytime i weatch one of your videos i wanna get into prop making. But gooood damn that loook time consuming!! but it looks soooo good!!

[@jackkuehneman9300]

This is awesome! Nice job bill. Nice job with the wood too. My guess would have been mahogany

[@punishedprops]

Thanks!

[@TheMumbaGames]

Amazing job! I like the look of the Eon pistol ingame, would love to see a build of that one. Keep up the great work!

[@punishedprops]

That’s another good one. Juri over at Workbench 3D made one: cults3d.com/en/users/3DWORKBENCH/3d-models

[@eggchucker1]

I always love looking at the topology models used in games. I find it helps with realising that not everything has to have perfect topology. Thag beening that being said Bethesda needs to fix the scuffed normals on the tip of the wakizashi's blade.

[@3DPrintedProps]

Awesome work as always. Key with resin parts is to really wipe them off after the bath. This way u don't have little pools of alcohol and resin that end up hardening.

[@punishedprops]

Good to know!

[@arkham67]

What a display of pragmatic design and engineering. My dad always told me to chose my battles and this upload is a great showcase for how useful that axiom is. A fantastic final product Bill, thank you.

[@punishedprops]

You’re very welcome!

[@connormatthews522]

man, a skilled maker with some good 3d printers is such a crazy combo

[@DacofAllTrades]

Some personal preferences/tips/tricks for SLA (resin) printing for anyone who might find it useful: - hollowing your prints and adding vent/drain holes uses less resin and helps prevents parts from cracking with age - removing supports before curing in cure chamber makes support removal easier and leaves less support behind, this can leave pock marks though (an hobby knife and tweezers/fine-pint needle nose pliers go a long way for smaller supports) - doing 2-3 wash cycles can help remove pooled resin in tight areas or wells (2 wash on bed with supports at different orientations, 1 wash in the basket after supports removed) - using compressed air can make drying your parts much quicker after wash, before cure - using ratio mixed resins can greatly improve material properties (my favorites are rigid+tough and abs-like+tough mixes) - water soluble resins tend to be easier since you don't have to keep a ton of IPA on hand, but they're typically very brittle and prone to cracking over time. (IPA soluble has more material options and better bond strength) - flexible resins can be very cool but difficult to get the settings right. I've had good success with Resione's F69 Black rubber-like resin. Hope someone somewhere finds these helpful!

[@punishedprops]

Awesome, tips, thanks for sharing!

[@Irlondris]

Bill! make the slide version too! like a revisit when you can fit in the time.

[@punishedprops]

I like the sentiment, but I’ll probably dump my energy into building something else from Starfield.

[@lennartb]

Absolutely incredible! Loooved the video and the build (and the game). I'm still searching for what I want to make from Starfield, I generally like to go with my own take on something and since my skills and tools are still limited, I need something doable that inspires me, I'll find it! Like for Elden Ring I made a modern lamp from wood and resin inspired by the sites of grace, for Morrowind I have the first box you ever lockpick in the game, of course with all my DnD dice in it :)

[@punishedprops]

Those are some really clever builds! I love the creativity.

[@aPyroDesign]

This came out so amazing. Always love to see your process.

[@punishedprops]

Thanks so much friendo! =D

[@Ktrayne14]

Unreal

[@Ilzhain]

This turned out fantastic! there's some really fantastic design details in the starfield weapons like the magazine having the cooling system integrated into it so that when you replace the magazine you're also taking out the heat the gun has built up which is essential when it's expected to perform in an environment with no air to passively cool it. Most of the weapons are designed with some form of heat reduction solution and it's cool to see all the different ways they've achieved that

[@punishedprops]

Oh yes, I am in love with all the designs in Starfield.

[@MetalHeadProductions]

I would love to see you make the Deadeye pistol from Starfield. Gorgeous gun that would make a great prop.

[@punishedprops]

That's one of my very favorites!

[@MetalHeadProductions]

@@punishedprops it might be one of the most pretty weapons in any bethesda game. so cool.

[@rosebuddesign635]

Amazing build as usual. As per some comments, I highly recommend removing the supports before curing the resin. Bravo! 😊👍

[@punishedprops]

Thanks so much!

[@TheRealAlpha2]

Games like this and Cyberpunk that have just tons of tiny lootables are perfect for making random clutter items along with bigger items like the actual blasters and knifes and such. If I had a 3D printer I'd be up to my ears in these bits and bobs.

[@punishedprops]

There are so many great bits and bobs! I could spend a month just making all the Chunks.

[@driftscape9260]

awsome

[@Revvek]

Great work! What’s the link for the red tool you are using to do finish sanding in the rotary tool?

[@babaganoosh1969]

Cool idea with the shaft extension..beats sandpaper on a dowel...lol

[@punishedprops]

HA! I've done that too.

[@martinboulianne2360]

a simple solenoid and a spring!!

[@mmcc2852]

amaziong! maybe dont rush thru all the guns yet, would love to see you make all the mods for the rattler gradually, and make a complete gun case that you can swap the parts irl!

[@punishedprops]

I love the weapon cases! It would be a great way to travel with props.

[@vynaltheworld4092]

i am definitely going to buy thee fusion 360 course asap

[@punishedprops]

I believe that was done by extruding a sketch through an existing body and using the "intersection" operation to combine the parts.

[@sidevon6819]

Another brilliant build. I would be happy to pay for a set of those wooden handles.

[@SecularMentat]

I think with resin prints, you want to clean the zits up before you cure it, it's a LOT easier to remove when they're fresh and a little gummy.

[@punishedprops]

I’ll have to give that a try.

[@andrewzaborowski3832]

You can add oil paints to tint your earlier coats of an oil based finish to get whatever wood tone you want, so if you can find a piece with the right grain, you can definitely fudge the color. I made a piece of pine scrap the color of mahogany, no problem. I'm also surprised that a part stamped HSS in-universe looks like brass...but your faithful reproduction is beautiful.

[@punishedprops]

HA! Yeah it definitely isn't high speed steel. 😂

[@Prolitiker]

Beautiful and elegant result! I‘m deeply impressed how much time you invested.

[@punishedprops]

Thanks!

[@PjotrStroganov]

@punishedprops I think I know why the wooden parts had a rim. In fusion you probably had the tool containment set to tool center on boundary. It should be tool outside boundary to get that last bit of material. Absolute great result by the way!

[@punishedprops]

Awesome, thanks for sharing! 😄

[@Chopperdriver]

More Starfield stuff please!

[@punishedprops]

I've got some great new for you...

[@darren990]

sick

[@punishedprops]

Thanks!

[@QuinZelse]

Great build. Tapping is a delicate process and power tools are not recommended.

[@jaffy1048]

Bill if you heat up the supports before you cure (using a heat gun) you can pull them of much easier.

[@punishedprops]

Right on! Thanks for the tip.

[@peterclegg2609]

​@@punishedpropsrun under hot tap water.

[@poooopiepie]

Any chance Britt could show us how she got that model from the game files?

[@punishedprops]

I recommend checking out the Starfield discord server to see what everyone is doing. It’s a super complex process that’s getting easier every day and the folks over there are on top of it.

[@Velocity_AU]

Resin printing always feels less exact then FDM, which is funny since resin printing gets smaller and finer details then FDM printing, but when it comes to getting rails and that to slide, from the age of the resin to any over or under exposure of the UV, it can lead to tolerances being inaccurate. Though same things can be said about fdm printing, from the age of filament to the head of the nozzle. One of the main things FDM has over resin, is the cleanup, plus less cancer, for most filaments anyway And i know you probably know this since its been 4 months, but you do save time and money by prototyping in FDM, and then attempting in resin

[@DonFassbender]

Hey guys, Love these builds! Someday I hope to have a 3D printer of my own. Keep up the awesome builds!

[@punishedprops]

3D printers are a ton of fun! =D

[@OleHolm-sq7yj]

My favorite are the Hard Target sniper rifle. Great for long distance shots.

[@punishedprops]

I just got one of those and it is really incredible.

[@TeslaSpain]

The best props in the world

[@punishedprops]

Awe, thank you!

[@graybacca]

Great work as always. Any chance that you would do the novalight?

[@graybacca]

Had to do this as a reply to my own post since I can't seem to edit a post on a cell phone any chance that you do the Var'uun Shard pistol

[@calebfederico-dyer8837]

❤

[@forby_]

Nice, it looks so good! That's some great modeling work Bill! And all that fusion file organization makes me so happy.

[@punishedprops]

Thanks Forby! Gotta get a handle on those components. 👍

[@michaelwarren3264]

You made a comment about putting the decorative piece on or the hand grips when having the screws too long and hit each other you should try using Chicago Screws and Extention Posts

[@punishedprops]

That’s another clever solution. Nice!

[@TLZ]

this is going to be one of my go-to videos to watch over and over. I love when you mix techniques and materials.

[@punishedprops]

Thanks great! Thanks for watching. 😄

[@MakeSomething]

Walnut is always the right choice. 🙂

[@punishedprops]

Heck yeah my man!

[@seekertosecrets]

2:29 Nice! 23:17 So with these tap screws, how do know just how deep you need to drill? Now, I wonder how it's possible to extract the files from the game like that?

[@punishedprops]

I made the hole 20mm deep and it only needs to have threads on the first 10mm, so I have some wiggle room on the depth.

[@Lubos151]

Love the build but using brittle resin? using mix tough and flexible resin in my opinion would be better with abs resin i was disappointed when i was doing my stuff.

[@punishedprops]

That’s a great idea.

[@justinb2924]

If you release your proto files with all the moving parts for those of us feeling more adventurous that'd be rad.

[@bennydesign]

Hi Bill, I purchased the files and am in the process of building it. Wasn‘t there a shorter „Build-Video“? I cannot find it anymore, did it ever exist or am I becoming bonkers? Kind regards!

[@tiffanysandmeier4753]

When the material failed since it was too thin for the resin, I was wondering if a hybrid approach would work where the base of the gun was made out of a sheet of aluminum and maybe aluminum or steel pins to hold the slide. It may still be too thin for aluminum. I know it is so easy to get stuck in one thought of how something should work. This isn’t a criticism of the finished prop. It is amazing. I really want to see the working slide. 😅 And my thoughts on what might work to solve your issues.

[@punishedprops]

I like that idea a lot.

[@tiffanysandmeier4753]

The issue with having aluminum is how everything attaches.

[@sjmaguirepdx]

Didn't see it listed in the tools but safe to assume the semi-transparent resin you used for the parts that required tapping was Siraya Tech Build?

[@punishedprops]

That was Siraya Tech Fast ABS-Like.

[@GBRyker61]

Really nice work.😊 Did you design it to be printed on a resin printer specifically or can it be printed on a standard 3D printer?

[@punishedprops]

I test printed it on both a resin and FDM machine, so it'll work no matter what kind of printer you have.

[@Astereux]

23:39 Are you using a bottom tap? That should fix any issues with a tap stripping out the threads

[@punishedprops]

That’s a great point!

[@darkflames80]

I would be that one stubborn person who would still try to make the one with the moving parts after doing the static one