Mercedes W163 ML320,430,270,350,500 power window repair/regulator replacement

[@bt1493]

That was great, thank you. I was chuckling when you said it was cold..... my replacement regulator showed up and temperature was (-27C). Impressive one-handed work while juggling the camera :). Thanks again for sharing.

[@fupabox]

-27 is too heroic for me to work in .lol .. god luck . Hope the bid helps

[@bt1493]

@@fupabox Beautiful sunny day today at -19C and a Large Double-Double on the cup holder I was able to install the new regulator and all works great. Thanks again for the detailed information. Have a great day.

[@fupabox]

@@bt1493 thumbs up for -19 repair . 👍😁

[@joedowning1698]

Skunk ran by in the yard at 40 seconds in ....LOL!

[@fupabox]

lol.. good eye . Never noticed that :)

[@MMWA-DAVE]

I don't even own a w163, but still enjoy watching these videos, very informative as always.

[@fupabox]

Thanks... you just want to see me suffer.. lol ;)

[@MMWA-DAVE]

I found it slightly saddening that the junk yard just lets the parts cars get filled up with snow, that leather still looked reasonable in that parts car. They must get them for very little to not care like that.

[@MrBignik321]

Very good description. I'm having a similar issue on the passenger side, and this video helped me a lot. My new regulator arrives next week and I will be ready for installation. Thank you.

[@oceanscriminal3109]

Thank you so much for the video I've done mine today.

[@fupabox]

You’re very welcome .. I hope it helped

[@jimbusse7381]

Thanks for the video. You get a like from me, for sure. As I am just starting, I have a couple questions. (I may have more as I go along, sorry). First, your video goes from the foam stuck to the door, to "poof" the foam is off. It took me awhile to figure out how to unplug the airbag, I pried the outer cover of the airbag connector off its lower track (?) then moved the cover away from the airbag, then the connector could be removed from the airbag (don't know if that is the politically correct method or not, probably not). Second, I think I have to remove the rubber bootie from the light plug at the bottom of the door in order to get the wire through the foam, and I think to do that, I have to remove the pins from the connector body, slide the wire out of the bootie, then I can get the wire that's out of the bootie through the foam. I haven't done that yet. The connector looks like a standard Molex, and it may be that a thin jeweler's screwdriver inserted between the pin and the connector body may release a catch holding the pin in the connector body (which I cannot see). That's the way the old Molex connectors used to do it, and sometimes it took a special tool to insert in the connector housing so the pin's not damaged. So any input on this would be appreciated. Lastly I haven't yet figured out how to disconnect the Bose speaker wires. That is a connector design I've never encountered the like before, and I've seen thousands of connectors. So any advice on how to disconnect the Bose speaker would be appreciated! The other question I have is that someone may have worked on this vehicle before me, and I believe one of the plastic door panel pin holders was damaged before I bought the van. I can't find any replacement pin holders (the ones that are glued to the inside of the door panel). I don't know what kind of glue that is, but man, it is amazingly strong. And, any ideas about what kind of glue I could use to repair the pin holder? Basically the part that holds the pin was broken off the part that is glued to the door panel. It is in 2 pieces, and I have them both. But I'm just not sure what kind of adhesive I could use, or if I could grind off the old pin holder and replace it. I'm just not sure what to do here. Thanks!

[@whatsgood4685]

Make a video reply. Too long of a description

[@Charbley]

Excellent video and impressive camera work! When you put the foam moisture barrier back did you need to apply more adhesive? I imagine that whatever adhesive is on will become less tacky over time and with repeated removal and installation.

[@PatrickStar-qb1sx]

Awesome videos! You helped us a lot with all these w163 DIY videos. I have different issue with the front driver side window. Windows up and down without issues but it will not close all the way to the top. I have to manually pull up about 1.5" to close the window. Do you think it is caused by bad motor or need to lubricate window tracks? I haven't open the door panel yet.

[@fupabox]

Could be a bent regulator arm or the slider on the arm needs greasing ….sticky near the end . Also possibly broken teeth on the regulator gear

[@razorblatter]

Hahaha, fifty shades of Batman. Must admit I consulted ebay for a few moments but didn't see your design. Ah well, must learn to live without one. Excellent video as ever but I sure do hope that I will ever have to perform this transplantation surgery. Thanks for your continuous efforts!

[@christran419]

Hi thanks for nice video! I'm working on replacing my still panel window as someone smack it to grab my stuff. Anyways, I'm having problem removing the lining door. You mention to remove something about removal of door lock knob. Can you send a video of how to remove it or maybe explain how it's remove. The lining is hanging but couldn't lift it out. Thanks for your help!

[@se8214]

Great video! Thanks for making it!

[@fupabox]

Thanks .. hope it helped

[@johnh2937]

Please keep your w163...I need the help!! Big Thanks for your vids!

[@Lonnie91a]

Exact same thing happened to mine the other day. I wonder if you can just weld those arms while it’s in the door? Even to cut a hole in the inside door metal to weld it? My window is up right now and solid in place so the arms should be in the correct angle. I’m going to give it a try.

[@fupabox]

Let me know if it works out. I was thinking the same way as you

[@tydwill2009]

I thought it 49 degrees was cold. I am amazed how you can work in the snow. If it snowed in Sacramento none of us would go out of the house, and all roads would be shut down.

[@fupabox]

I hate it too... grew up in the Mojave desert. Takes a few weeks every winter to get used to the cold

[@MuchachoMilitaria]

dear god that pop riveting instruction was brutal to watch...i may have PTSD now lol

[@fupabox]

lol.. yeah .. my apologies

[@MuchachoMilitaria]

just giving you a hard time, good video

[@Ravenola]

Front regulators on W163 with such malfunctions are repairable, just need welding, no need to buy used ones, they also fail some day if not to weld.

[@patrickthchai]

Great video! I am in the process of doing this myself but at the 18:40 mark, you mentioned that you would be "rotating" the regulator so that the two pins would fit into the holes. My problem is there is no room to rotate, it's either the front pin is in place or the back pin. It also appears that you bent the front pin, is that the trick to getting more room to rotate? Thanks!

[@fupabox]

I actually didn't bend the pin, although it is entirely possible that it bent a bit when I removed it at the wrecking yard, and that was possibly why it was easier for me... There is no reason you couldn't bend it a bit then tap it flush once installed

[@waynegomillion4976]

Any idea? Drivers side window came off the track the regulator goes up and down but the window isn't attached.

[@cpjsf119]

Very detailed video helped me tremendously. Only improvement would of been someone else holding the recording device while work was done camera moved off focus of work too often. otherwise best vid to do the job. !!!!

[@fupabox]

Thanks..Yes my camera work leaves a lot of room for improvement . I try to use the tripod when possible , but I get lazy . :(

[@kaoskross9983]

The part I can get is the window back into the slider. I have cleaned the chanel & rubber gasket but it will not slide down into the channel. I have tried everything!! Please help

[@frankangermann6460]

Had the same problem, but welded it back together. With the new regulator there is the same crappy spot-weld-connection that will fail again..

[@gordonfirth7254]

Always push your rivet gun tight to your door and make sure the rivet is in the hole on the inside piece and there is no space between the two pieces . if not most likely the rivet will be attached to the door piece and pulled right through the hole on the adjuster.

[@herrbela84]

Do you have a W116 to repair? I just love your detailed videos.

[@MrAndrewkheinrich]

Great video as always.......do you know how to remove the outside backdoor handle on a 2003 C320? Changed a damaged door and I want to put the chrome handle on the new door.....

[@fupabox]

I do , but the explanation would be very long... let me find a link for you ...www.pelicanparts.com/techarticles/Mercedes-W203/70-BODY-Removing_Your_Rear_Door_Handles/70-BODY-Removing_Your_Rear_Door_Handles.htm

[@MrAndrewkheinrich]

that's excellent....thanks for the help

[@lanesterger7425]

The foam rubber thing held on by urethane is for sound dampening mainly, and weather seal secondary.

[@fupabox]

yes.. they used to use thick plastic sheet , like a thick garbage bag.. the newer foam sheet is both sound deadening and waterproofing..it's a bit of a cheaper solution from the thick insulation on the old Benz door panels

[@solstice666]

You stated to use stainless pop-rivets, but you used Aluminum. Which ones should one actually use or did Mercedes use originally?

[@fupabox]

You know ..it's amazing I can feed myself anymore. I grabbed those from the same hook the stainless ones were on. Crap. I never noticed that they were not stainless. I'm so glad you noticed. But I'm going to have to drill those out and put actual stainless in. Unreal. How did I not freaking notice ?

[@eachampandmabel]

Thank you both.

[@garyhgaryh]

fupabox would the aluminum ones work? That’s all I have anyways.

[@wernerdanler2742]

I am trying to replace my front regulator but cannot break that torx bolt loose. I sprayed it with pb blaster several times but it just does not want to turn loose. What to do?

[@bigdaddychud]

Use an impact driver, that is what I had to do, could not do it by hand.

[@wernerdanler2742]

@@bigdaddychud I actually tried that. Didn't work. I did finally get it out but now it's been long enough I think I got it by hand or just managed to slide it out of the back end. I did kinda screw up the rivet holes by using cheap drill bits which would not drill out the center of the rivets so went sideways and ovaled the holes a lot on a few of them. I saw a video on doing this and the guy punched the centers out with a punch first. Oh well! Its back together and works fine. Just need to replace the switches now. Thanks!

[@kylerowins1667]

I have a 99 ML430. I need to remove the door actuator on the rear driver's side door. In order to do so, I need to remove the window divider, and in order to do that, I must remove the window. Does anyone know if removal of the window regulator is necessary to remove the window?

[@larryjackson4632]

Hey Fupa quick question bud: My daughter had the 99' ML320 not start up yesterday. She was listening to the radio {with Bose amp and subwoofer fully cranked up} for about 15-20 minutes with the engine off and when she went to start it back up it wouldn't even crank at all. I mean it BARELY even makes any clicking sound either. So i had the battery tested and it was dead, and I put a brand new battery in it, but it's still doing the exact same thing. Do you think it's possibly the starter? Just seems like too big of a coincidence that it was starting fine until she jammed the radio and amp for 20 minutes with the car off, which she knows better than to do but did anyways, why I have no clue. Should have been the battery with any logic at all, but this is a Benz so throw logic right into the river lol. Also if that little red anti-theft light right by the radio blinks red does that mean the key did not get fried when she tried to initially jump start it off another vehicle {that did not work nor did a power booster get it started either}. It's not that crankshaft position sensor coming loose is it because it would at least crank over if that was loose right? I will be taking the wheel-well cover off tomorrow and checking the starter connection and maybe even hit it with a hammer too to see if that will start it. Thanks brother much appreciated any answer you give me sir.

[@fupabox]

Darn kids never listen .. lol Mine are the same " I don't need to check the oil..I checked it 2 weeks ago " ugh :) If the other power stuff is working , headlights etc. The relay under the hood for the starter is K8 on mine (2001) check the map under the fuse box..it should click when you turn the key, you may need someone to turn the key while you feel the relay for the click. it could be the starter may be getting toasty and dried out. Or the main power cable to the starter could be bad ..runs from the positive battery to the starter motor.. Also check that the engine ground strap is good.. easy way to test that is to take a set of jumper cables and hook the one black end to the negative battery terminal, and the other black end to a solid metal part of the engine (red ones not needed ) then try starting .. if it starts , then the ground strap is bad. It's the bare braided wire that goes from the chassis to the Engine. If I'm not mistaken it runs from the top of thefirewall on the left side of the throttle cable then down to the engine.The engine is isolated from the body by the rubber mounts, so the ground strap is used as a flexible connection to the engine from the chassis ground. If all that seems ok then the starter is next to check.Turn the headlights on and then try to start the car .. if the lights dim when you try to start then power is going to the starter, but not flowing through. Likely the solenoid.. you can tap on it lightly and see if that works , but it will need to be pulled out eventually to grease it. Not a tough job. take the negative battery cable off the battery and unbolt the starter and the main .. actually this is the document AR15.30-P-7100GH copy and paste that into google and you will find the downloadable pdf from the factory manual for starter removal.. once the starter is out you can clean and grease the spring loaded bendix and gear on the end . Then test the starter out of the car with a battery and jumper cables to ensure it works.. They jump like a bastard when you power them on the ground so be careful. I doubt the key is fried. Hope some of that messy explanation helps.

[@jimmytate7587]

those rivets are stainless steel and harder than heck to drill out.

[@fupabox]

Yeah , a few drill bits get sacrificed getting them out for sure .

[@szidoniakonczei595]

Thank you werry mutsch ,i have now the same Problem.

[@SantiagoTF]

Thank you.

[@kevinwright7065]

Good helpful video thanks bet you froze your butt off !

[@kchilz32]

do I have to disconnect the battery due to the air bag? Thanks.

[@fupabox]

there is no real danger of activating the airbag, but you could disconnect the negative battery terminal if you feel unsure...

[@kchilz32]

fupabox Thanks! I looked into what is going on, on my ML. You can see the big gear looking thing move but the window and the arms holding the window are not moving. Just the big gear looking thing. Don't know what it can be. Should I just buy a new regulator? Also would a $30.00 dollars aftermarket regulator work good? Thanks my friend.

[@fupabox]

sorry for the late reply... the aftermarket regulators have been ok from what I have read. I would replace the regulator, something must be buggered up to keep it from moving, maybe the main pivot

[@kchilz32]

fupabox Better late then never lol... Thanks. I finally ordered a replacement and also a pump wedge should be here on Monday. The stainless steel rivets where too expensive online but found them at tractor supply for 5 bucks for 15 of them. I do need some new clips those are costly as well. Can't wait to get it fixed, I need my window working again lol. Thanks

[@garyhgaryh]

kchilz32 that’s what’s happening to mine. Big gear moves but nothing else. What was the issue? I will just order a regulator.

[@KingStivan]

nice batman pj`s :P learn few stuff today how rivets works and how to adjust the corner of the window :> thanks ^^

[@fupabox]

Lol... I should have worn them to the wrecking yard :)

[@KingStivan]

in my mind you did :p

[@jimmytate7587]

i had to use cheater handles to pop those rivets. i didn't have enough strength to pop them.

[@fupabox]

They are definitely not easy .

[@Due2Win]

You said to use steel pop rivet's or stainless steel to be exact but show 3/16 aluminum pop rivet's !!!

[@fupabox]

Yup .. someone caught that when I first posted . I had gotten the rivets from the stainless steel rivet section at the hardware store and honestly didn't notice until after they were all done . I hate to admit that even as I was filming the pack of aluminum rivets, my brain was still telling me they were steel because that was the shelf I got them from. I should have realized they were easier to squeeze than steel would have been . Ended up going back to replace all of them because aluminum won't hold for long.

[@soxlime]

you have snow in your seats and in your car :)

[@fupabox]

:)

[@jorgeluishernandezrodrigue7177]

Thanks

[@jargalsaikhantselmeg2247]

Very thank you