G37 Instrument Cluster Backlight LED Rework

[@quintinbakker2550]

Hello, I used 475-LWTTSD-U2V2-JKPL-1-20-R18-ZCT-ND from DigiKey and they were nearly identical to the OEM LEDs. The 160-2044-1-ND have a Millicandela Rating of 1400mcd while the 475-LWTTSD-U2V2-JKPL-1-20-R18-ZCT-ND have 840mcd. Please pin this comment!

[@DansWay]

Thanks for the feedback! Glad you found something closer to the original. I'll add this part number to the description as well. 👍

[@RedVenom77]

I've got an 08 G35 with a partially dark cluster, and looks like I'll be enlisting some help from a friend to replace the LEDs. Thank you for this, Subscribed!

[@drrightwing4435]

I m curious to your academic and employment background cuz some of automotive work you do is beyond even some mechanics. Impressive

[@DansWay]

I'm actually an Electrical Engineer who likes to dabble in the real 'nuts and bolts' of automotive work as a great way to get off the computer or lab bench all day... Then again, video editing is sort of a hobby as well so that puts me back on the screen! ;-)

[@houston01xyz]

Thanks for the awesome video. After watching I changed my mind about trying to fix this. I can't believe Nissan made it so painful to fix.

[@kareemk3126]

Me too changed my mind

[@DansWay]

Sorry to hear that. I'd hoped this video would encourage people to think they could at least swap out the whole module for $150...

[@chrissmith2501]

Thanks dan you fixed my auto up windows!!! I didn't need to see the cluster but I watched it anyway because it was pretty cool! Then found the window reprogram saved me a headache!

[@DansWay]

Haha, wow, that was a lot of watching to get something truly helpful in the last 5 minutes... Thanks for watching!

[@sw0]

Great video Dan, very thorough and excellent. I don't even own a G37 and I watched your complete series. I really hope you keep up with your content and put out great stuff like this more frequently.

[@Bruiser7528]

Thank the lord someone finally did a video on this whole process, is there any way u can look into the backlighting for the clock as well? It would be greatly appreciated!!

[@jayjee7554]

Any idea how to upgrade backlighting display?

[@AlexSmith-qz3no]

the "trunk open" you refer to is actually for jdm or euro models, when the pedestrian safety bonnet airbags deploy

[@DansWay]

Thanks for the info Alex!

[@juansco3277]

Hi Alex, I have a JDM skyline 250GT and a friend of mine owns a 350GT. But on both cars there is no trunk open light. It just shows up on the LCD screen

[@AlexSmith-qz3no]

that's because it was only implemented in the newer models, 370gt onwards :)

[@stalone007]

Hello again Dan. Thank you very much for taking the time and providing that info.

[@Mrmephostophilis]

I have a question. If my fuel gauge shows 1/4 tank too low after reassembly (needles were not taken off). Do I simply adjust the needles while the cluster is off, or will I have to pop the needles off and put them back on the right way? Thanks

[@DansWay]

Strange... I'm not sure exactly. That would work, but I do'n't understand why it would have changed in the first place...

[@Mrmephostophilis]

Thanks for the quick response! I think I may have accidentally pushed the needle down a little before putting the cover back on (even though I could swear it was right on the E, but my tank was actually 3/4 full so maybe that's why)​@@DansWay

[@natem1074]

Great how to for removal and disassembly, but don't buy the 160-2044-1-ND LEDs, Edit: The 160-2044-1-ND LEDs do work, but you have to solder these 2pin LEDs in where the originals were 4 pin. I initially didn't think this would work but it does. I went back and used these for all 30ish LEDs. They are still brighter than stock, but I'm happy with them. If you are like me and not super confident with your soldering job, I would highly recommend plugging just the circuit board with the LEDs, the start button, and the connector on the instrument cluster surround in and turning the car to on (but not starting) to verify everything is working properly before re assembling everything.

[@DansWay]

Hey Nate, so sorry if that is a bad recommendation. Have you tried soldering the parts in anyway? The original LEDs are 4-terminal, but only two are used anyway, so you should be able to solder them down across the two smaller pads on each side and it should work fine. Please try it out and let us know.

[@natem1074]

@@DansWay I was thinking about that but I started messing around with a multimeter and a couple of AA batteries, and it looks to me like the original LED is actually 2 LED facing in opposite directions if that makes sense. The 2 leads on the end with the notch are connected together (the right 2 leads when facing the LEDs still on the cluster). The voltage appears to be applied across the 2 leads on the other (left) end of the LED. I could have tried soldering in the ones I got @ 90 degrees but that seemed like a messy solution because I would have had to add a piece of wire.

[@DansWay]

Nate M I remember that the pad on one side of the LED footprint is not connected to anything, so there are really only two active connections on the circuit board. Shorting these two together by installing the LED wouldn’t cause a problem.

[@natem1074]

I'll have to plug it into the car and experiment with a multimeter, I thought that the instrument cluster was applying the voltage across pins 2 and 3 of the LED (pg 2 of linked datasheet), which wouldn't work, but if it's applying it to pins 1 or 4 it would. media.digikey.com/pdf/Data%20Sheets/Lite-On%20PDFs/LTW-E670DS_RevA_6-12-19.pdf

[@DansWay]

@@natem1074 Ok, so if that really is the pinout of the factory LED, then you do need a 4-pin LED for it to work. Have you been able to use a meter to verify that the factory parts have three pins shorted together like the datasheet says? Unfortunately I don't have the old LEDs sitting around anymore...

[@aslifehacks9702]

Question So i got 3528 leds that are single pins on each side, would it work if i solder the double side to each pin ?

[@DansWay]

You can solder directly across the pads on both sides. As I recall only one set of pads is electrically active anyway. You can confirm by looking for traces leading away from the extra set on each side.

[@ianohler-romines8104]

How do you know which direction the LED lights go? Could you explain more on the proper solder technique and the flux/ solder that you used?

[@DansWay]

The polarity is generally marked as a bar on one side the the LED. This is the negative or cathode side. On the PCB the power starts at the upper side of each group of three LEDs, connects each of the three is series like water flowing positive to negative, than down to ground at the bottom of the PCB. I use leaded solder with flux already inside. Nothing fancy. If this is new, you would be well suited to watching some ‘learn to solder’ videos on KZbin. I didn’t intend for this video to explain the soldering techniques, just show the process for those who already have some experience. Good luck!

[@ianohler-romines8104]

@@DansWay thanks so much

[@user-lx9jm1wo3h]

Why do your led's look like they have 2 tabs on the side but the link you provided shows a solid tab on both sides of the led?

[@DansWay]

Good observation. The factory part has 4 terminals, but only one terminal on each side is electrically connected inside the LED body. The alternate part with a single wide tab works perfectly fine (per others who have used the part). Just solder across the whole structure and your good to go!

[@user-lx9jm1wo3h]

@@DansWay thanks for the info. I have one of mine flickering so im trying to figure out how to go about this... I thought about buying a used cluster so i have no down time but im not sure how the whole mileage thing works. Do you know if the mileage updates or will it display whatever the donor car had?

[@DansWay]

@@user-lx9jm1wo3h the way I understand it, the mileage is stored on the display, so you need to get the donor reprogrammed. Some eBay sellers offer the reprogramming as part of the cost.

[@nameerfarhat6131]

Great video dan, but why your odometer reading rolled up?

[@DansWay]

Not sure what you mean? From start of video to end there was several months of time. Also, I recorded some failure videos months before I ever started fixing it.

[@eryenmairena6803]

Hey Dan , Here is a new subscriber, I wanted to ask if changing the LCD of an automatic donor car and installing it in a standard car clouster works or not? The miles are lost or they are deprogrammed, I have a problem that is something common it seems that the clouster LCD has stopped working half and I would like to replace it only the LCD of a G25 is compatible I think thank you for your time, great videos very educational and clean work🙏👍

[@DansWay]

Good question. I believe the memory is on the base-board while the center display is just a display. So depending on which piece you are changine, you will loose the mileage, and worst case show a higher mileage. There are guys on ebay claiming to sell modules that will program in the mileage you indicate. Let me know what you come up with!

[@eryenmairena6803]

@@DansWay With this new information, and with your videos of course you will, you have just removed a big doubt with the miles, now I only have the doubt that the central screen is only the screen and that it does not affect that it comes from a donor automatic transmission since my vehicle is manual transmission thank you very much Dans these videos will help me a lot and save me videos as much as learn more 👍👍

[@venskus2009]

T H A N K Y O U! will do some practice soldering then take a swing. prolly fuck up my cluster but gotta learn somehow.

[@DansWay]

Haha, good luck! Let me know how it turns out 👍🏼

[@sjames3354]

Thank you for this info. How many total LEDs do you need to replace to ensure all four gauges and needles illuminate properly?

[@DansWay]

About 36 LEDs total.

[@jamessbarker]

Would you happen to know how to wire a resistor into the car for the afs lights so it stops showing on my cluster?

[@DCMAN44]

Dan awesome video curious what gauge solder wire and solder gun tip works best for this ? And would you recommend magnifying glass or are they big enough to be able to see if they are set enough on the board ? Thanks In advance.

[@DansWay]

A low-power soldering iron is all that is needed with the smallest wedge type tip you can get. I use 0.3mm or 0.4mm solder. If you have good eyes you won't likely need anything, but some form of magnifier that you don't have to hold is best. I use a stereo microscope but that is not realistic for most.

[@khaledafg1]

Did you fix fuel gauge issue? its showing more and bytime its goes at his place

[@piotrpiotr1454]

Do you know where can I find a speaker for blinkers and seatbelt warning? Right now it's working from time to time and I wish to replace it but dont know where to look for.

[@DansWay]

Honestly I don’t know where that would be. Anyone else have this all opened up and can comment?

[@tonykarter8830]

Piotr Piotr I have the same problem with the speaker/buzzer. Have you found any more info?

[@juansco3277]

Thanks for this vid Dan. Ive been searching for months. Does the dimming function also work after the replacement of the LEDs?

[@DansWay]

Juan Sco it works just like before. The only issue is that the new LEDs are so much more efficient that I wish I had changed the resistors as well to reduce the current through the LED strings. Each string has three LEDs, then a ballast resistor going to ground. Increasing the value of the resistor by 25% would likely do the trick.

[@juansco3277]

thanks. ill keep that in mind. Im planning to swap the leds around the end of august when i have more time at hands. thanks again for the time and effort you put into the production of this video. you've got yourself a new subscriber.

[@DansWay]

@@juansco3277 did you have a chance to do the rework yet?

[@carloscastillo10001]

Waooo excelent video 100 x 100

[@DansWay]

Thanks for the compliment! Are you having this problem with your car too?

[@Danimal-sd5ez]

Hey Dan I have really been looking to replace the instrument cluster for my g37 and this video looks great. As I see in one comment you said that you can buy the whole module for $250? would you have a link in mind I have searched through online and all I can find for my 2009 infiniti g37x is used instrument clusters which I imagine could just have the same issue

[@DansWay]

What I was mentioning was a used cluster... Not sure if there are any new options out there any more. And yes, the same issue could come up unfortunately!

[@meelash1]

How'd you know what LED to buy to replace them?

[@geopin7672]

Excellent

[@Actrs3.7]

Hey dan, im trying to take out the odometer because its showing 200k miles when mine only has 100k how do i go about switching it out

[@DansWay]

Not sure how you could have an improper value there. So, if your not committing fraud here... Remove the cluster and replace it with one that has been programmed to match your VIN and mileage. What's the rest of the story?

[@Actrs3.7]

@@DansWay guy i got it from swapped the engine with a good one that only had 105k miles, he gave me the IPC that goes with the new engine, i replaced the ipc myself but then the car wouldnt start but the panel lit up it showed the brake pedal and push button to start the car but when i push the button nothing so i took the push to start button from the old ipc and put it on the new one and it worked, no need to take the odometer out now its all good

[@Actrs3.7]

@@DansWay long story short i figured the whole thing didnt work and thought the guy gave me a broken ipc but really it was just a bad button

[@J0SEPH1216]

This is a long shot. But I’m planning to do this to my 2004 Infiniti G35 Sedan. With a lot of research the LED is a “ 0805 SMD.” I’ve used your source to find the LEDs for a similar spec and came up with “160-165-1-ND(Blue), 160-1427-1-ND(RED), 160-1423-1-ND(Green).” Which all say are 0805. But I don’t know much about LED SMD. If you have any knowledge about the LEDs in my vehicle if you can inform me, if not to see if the specs of LED SMD are good enough. Thank you in advance.

[@DansWay]

Joseph, Are you trying to make a multi-colored background using green/red/blue LEDs, or are you just not finding a White LED that will work in the 0805 form-factor (Size). 0805 is a very common size and should be fairly easy to rework. If you want white, it looks like the brightest part in an 0805 package that they offer is the 516-3993-1-ND. Let us know how it works out for sure!

[@GerbilGuy9MC]

Does anyone know if there is a way to get rid of the blue color around the gauges, other than just carefully scraping it off?

[@DansWay]

Do you want it simply dark? If so, you could paint over the back side to prevent light from going through the blue material. I doubt you could scrape off all the blue effectively IMO...

[@GerbilGuy9MC]

@@DansWay preferably i would like it another color but painting over it could achieve a similar effect

[@mikhailvizcarra9057]

Hi do you think this would work on an 06 g35 gauge cluster? I would assume it would be the same process but not sure if the LED’s are the same

[@DansWay]

I would assume it would be very similar, but don’t know for sure. Anyone else tried this on an 06?

[@adamcope2600]

what leds are they please

[@DansWay]

Check the description for the LEDs I used and options...

[@JorgeHernandez-oq5eu]

Awesome video! In total, how many LED's is it you replaced? Like gas, temp gauge, tach, and speed? Thanks 🙌🏽

[@DansWay]

Jorge Hernandez all of them... more than 30 ;-)

[@HondaAholic]

So I'm trying to figure out the led size/type, is it PLCC2 or PLCC4? Or neither?

[@DansWay]

I’m not sure by those names, but if you go to Digi-Key and look at the part numbers in the description you should be able to see the mechanical dimensions of the LED. It doesn’t matter if they are two or four legged as one side only is needed.

[@HondaAholic]

​​@@DansWay I'm pretty late to responding but to answer my question, they're 3V 4PLCC SMD leds. LTW-E670DS is for white. If you lookup E670 you can find different colors.

[@BrownStain_Silver]

First off, thanks for making this video. I just bought a 2011 G37 Sedan and the coolant temperature gauge needle (only the needle) doesn't light up. Do you know if the needles have a built in LED or if they are lit by LED's on the circuit board? Did you replace the LED's that light the needles in your 2009 G37?

[@DansWay]

The needle is back-lit by the LEDs on the PCB. You can see two LEDs right next to the shaft which light up the plastic core of the needle. I replaced every single LED on the board as they continued to randomly fail over time...

[@BrownStain_Silver]

Thank you. Looks like i'll be doing the same thing.

[@turbointerceptor86]

АCan I change the computer board separately?

[@DansWay]

You can purchase a replacement instrument cluster on eBay for sure.

[@turbointerceptor86]

@@DansWay I understand that. I'm interested in is it possible to remove the central screen?

[@DansWay]

Sure, it can be unscrewed and moved as I recall. My recollection is that the memory EEPROM for the odometer is located on the main board, but I’m not certain.

[@RzVids]

Even if you turned down the brightness on the console, the LED’s are still that bright? And when you’re soldering, are you using the sodder to glue to LED on the circuit board? Is it Leaded sodder?

[@isidrogarcia9722]

Looks expensive to get this done!!

[@RS-VQ35Racing]

Lol I remember when I did some mods to my 240sx I purposely put my fuel gauge to empty when in reality it was at 1/4 tank....

[@benjabriseno3819]

Hey dan i did everything you did on the video and it went great i tested out the cluster and all the lights where good so i started to assemble everything back when i noticed as soon as i plugged the cluster the turn signals and high beam lights comes on but thats it hopefully you can help me thanks

[@DansWay]

Ah man, that is really strange. So you plugged it in after replacing the LEDs and it worked, but after fully replacing the board in the cluster housing and plugging it in things don’t work now?? I’d check the connector to be sure there isn’t a pin bent or something like that. Let us know what you find.

[@deadmoon7959]

Hey Dan, quick question. I redid the LEDs on my 2005 G35 Coupe and for some reason, theirs a portion of LEDs that don't turn on. Any idea as to why? I know the connections are linked to pairs on the board. Even after re-do'ing those specific LEDs, they still didn't light up.. Trying to figure out the issue

[@DansWay]

The driver chip could be the problem. The LEDs are connected directly to 12V input, so the first in the series of two or three gets 12V, then each LED connects Anode to Cathode. The last LED in the string connects to an IC that 'sinks' the current to ground through a resistor. Any of those parts could be the problem.

[@deadmoon7959]

@@DansWay Thanks Dan, I appreciate the response. Im gonna try testing that out. Hopefully I can get them all working again.

[@deadmoon7959]

Its weird.. If i press down on the LEDs on the board, some of them come on til i let go. So i thought maybe they werent soldered on properly. But re did them again and still the same. Its been frustrating. Lol

[@tonykarter8830]

Good morning Dan. If I may ask, did you do anything with the red leds around the base of the needle? Do those not fail? Are they different to the rest of them or are they white with a red tint? Planning in doing this job with my 08.

[@DansWay]

If you look at the video at 12:05 you can see the clusters of red LEDs around each needle. I didn’t replace those myself.

[@tonykarter8830]

@@DansWay Thanks for the quick response. My father and I are going to try this over my spring break, I'll try to update you on results.

[@bradelphick7258]

Apprentice mechanic here trying to fix my fuel gauge issue I run out fuel at 1/4 tank. I have tested fuel level sensor and pump sensor both read properly on ohm scale I can't remember the specs. This video is by far the best I've seen on the odometer issues. If I hook up a resistor to push it past the 80 ohms I can get the fuel gauge to go below the 1/4 mark. I'm not sure if I have an issue with the odometer or maybe the a/c amp. Or maybe the needle wasn't set correctly from previous owner. Just looking for an opinion an what you think might be the problem. Thankyou

[@DansWay]

Brad Elphick quick fix is to reset the needle manually by just rotating it so empty is accurate.

[@bradelphick7258]

@@DansWay would that turn on the gas light when I'm empty?

[@DansWay]

@@bradelphick7258, no it wouldn't change that at all... Not sure what else you can do but get the needle closer.

[@bradelphick7258]

@@DansWay thanks

[@bencheng1000]

Thank you so much for showing us this. Please let us know if you may recommend or even guide the modding process for upgrading digital instrument cluster for G37s coupe ?

[@DansWay]

Are you asking for instructions on the soldering process itself?

[@bencheng1000]

@@DansWay Yes, please lecture me how to connect the cluster’s logic board for outputting the video signal that can also be decoded by app such as RealDash or any other app from the tablets without sacrificing features on the steering wheel’s control module functions

[@bencheng1000]

Highly appreciate for your support and information

[@juskash7918]

Can I use a heat gun to loosen the glue?

[@DansWay]

The glue on the overlay? That might make it easier but I would be very careful how much heat you add. You don’t want to deform the plastic or you could end up with wrinkles.

[@OGYELLOW]

Bravo sir

[@r7blue]

do u live in cali? id do all the labor and pay u to help with the led install

[@sadfscdagvzdfgb2632]

Great video, thank you.

[@gabrielbrown2791]

How long does it take to change cluster

[@DansWay]

If you follow these instructions, you could have it completely done in 2-3 hours tops.

[@gabrielbrown2791]

I think I reached out on another post but my dash illumination lights are out and doesn’t read rmp or mph acts as if car is completely off but everything works noo

[@jsearight1]

Hey Dan Holt attempted this project and now the temp and gas gauges are not working is this just a zeroing issue no wiring was ripped out during this repair. All connectors unplugged no issue or maybe could the needles be on the wrong gauges.

[@DansWay]

Jevon Searight I would check the needles in relation to their mechanical zero points. You need to manually move them to zero before putting the needles back on. If you did that already, the movement of the needles feels normal. Look again at the video at 13:25 and be sure you did this. Beyond that I have no ideas why they both wouldn’t be working.

[@ianohler-romines8104]

Thank you for the video I was able to do everything successfully but I’ve ran into a issue, the gas gauge will not stay in the correct position and instead falls all the way down to the lowest point, any suggestions

[@DansWay]

Oh man! Not sure why that would be. Are they flopping around, or being driven to that point?

[@ianohler-romines8104]

@@DansWay I ended up having to keep the lens off and adjust them to zero with the car on. But now I have a fun new issue once I put everything back together the RPM gauge is now stuck because the needle slightly bent on the stepper motor 😢 gonna have to tear it all open again and replace the stepper motor

[@DansWay]

Oh no! Man, what a bummer…. You will be an expert after all this!

[@ianohler-romines8104]

@@DansWay appreciate your video a lot, I’ve never seen one so well done before and I never could of tackled it without it

[@prywatnekonto8304]

Hi! Awsome video, do you think calibration of the needles would be the same in 370z as in G37? In 350z you can put cluster in calibration mode, I'm not sure about 370z because cluster looks different

[@DansWay]

I am not aware of a calibration mode for the needles on the G37, so I'm sorry to say I don't know any better.

[@prywatnekonto8304]

@@DansWay thank you!

[@jessecoggan221]

Hey Dan, how many LEDs are there total? I want to order them but dont know how many to get.

[@jneese3729]

Hi Dan, great informative video. Do you have a current source for those LED's? The eBay link is non-op. I'd like to try to find LED's that are as close to the OE type brightness. Thanks!

[@quintinbakker2550]

LW TTSD-U2V2-JKPL-1-20-R18-Z

[@skyvwest]

Great video!!! What LED's would you recommend to maintain factory brightness without changing resistors?

[@DansWay]

I would try the Digikey part #160-2044-1-ND as those are lower brightness.

[@stalone007]

Hello Dan. My G37 is a daily driver. If I do all the work shown and send the cluster for someone to do the work, would I be able to continue driving the car.

[@DansWay]

Great question... Wish I knew... I never tried to start the car without the cluster installed. Anyone out there have an answer for this? Searching for this I did find a guy with a G35 who said the following which 'might' apply to the G37: I took it out today to see if the car would run without it. Everything seemed to work fine, except the nav, so I packed up the cluster and headed to the post office to send it out. I got a few miles down the road and the car quit! Without any warning the motor stopped running. I pulled off to the side to try to restart it, but the starter would not respond at all. I unboxed and plugged in the cluster, and the car started right up. So looks like I'm going to have to wait until Tuesday to send it off while I'm out of town.

[@nandiito]

I tried this in an older cars, 1992 Nissan Maxima and 2003 Nissan Maxima. The answer in those was Yes. Not sure on the newer models like this but I'm sure most likely it would drive just fine.

[@dgold9421]

Does the face bezel need to be reglued at each of the needle openings on reassembly? If so, what did you use? Thanks.

[@DansWay]

d gold I didn’t add any additional glue to it. It seemed to have a lot of stick left. Have fun!

[@xx-vo4zr]

hey i have the same problem with my 2008 infiniti g35 i was wondering if u can help me find the right leds for my cluster i would need white ones n blue ones thank you!

[@alexcodreanu2985]

Did u ever figure it out I’m having the same issue?

[@moosepilot3145]

Where did you buy the lights at ?

[@DansWay]

Hey, Check the description in the video for the details.

[@bryanbellaco9329]

Keep it up man

[@tazam21]

I'm not an engineer or electronics expert but I want to restore my honda accord cluster. Can you please confirm if the leds are polar or non polar. Can I just solder them in any direction?

[@DansWay]

Shahzad Tazam Shaikh LEDs are always polarized in that they have a plus and minus (anode and cathode). If you look really close at the metal inside the plastic you will see a larger metal piece and a smaller wire-like one. The big piece is the negative (cathode), and the thin wire is the positive (snide) side.

[@khaledafg1]

the fuel gauge where exactly we have to put it after removing it

[@duztman7460]

HOW MUCH DOES A JOB LIKE THAT COST ?

[@DansWay]

I have no idea. Took me hours for sure!

[@gonzo4891]

Great video Dan!!! I most definitely appreciate this vid and your time spent creating this! My girlfriend's G37 is experiencing the entire left side going out while driving! do you happen to live in FL by chance?

[@DansWay]

Glad this was helpful. Sorry, I’m in SoCal...

[@LuisGonzalez-ns1mc]

@@DansWay no worries, I used to live in San Diego myself years back. By chance, if someone was willing to go through the tedious process of removing their gauge cluster in the video as you have, do you think you’d be willing to charge for service, in fixing troubled gauges, even possibly custom gauge colors and what not? Something to think about seriously as I am certain there are MANY people out there that would be willing to pay for such services... That is, if you’re time allotted you that convenience? I’ll link a video response below for asking such a question... seems from the look of it, there’s a market for it, yet not easily known of or out there.

[@mariahpizzano1915]

Hi, Dan. Did the LEDs on the cluster hold up since when you made the video in May? I’m going to attempt to do the same repair and want to make sure that the flickering issue did not come back in your car. Also, what LEDs did you use? Could you provide part # or a link to purchase them? Thank you

[@DansWay]

Thanks for the comment. I still enjoy the really bright backlight and have had no problems with it after I replaced all of them. I put the part number and some comments in the pinned comment and description on this video so look there for the details you asked for about part number.

[@MrGeeky84]

hi there. is it the same procedure with 370z ?? i have maybe 2 to 3 lights off on the top rpm gauge from 4000rpm to 7000 rpm. ?? could you help me plz??

[@DansWay]

I honestly don't know about the 370z. I would assume the overall process is roughly similar. Here is a video where another KZbinr has this documented: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hJKlhamuiJycY9E

[@MrGeeky84]

@@DansWay thank you for answering i appreciate it. :p

[@245artist]

Do you know how I can fix the LCD? it's missing some pixels on the main center display.

[@DansWay]

The center module seems to be removable, so if you can get one from a donor car you could potentially swap it out. You could just replace the whole cluster as well from those on ebay who are selling them... Fixing just one pixel is likely to be very difficult unless it is just the connector or something intermittent like that.

[@jessemoore3348]

hey Dan, if I got the instrument panel out do you repair them for a price? Great info in video, I just think I would butcher it.

[@DansWay]

jesse Moore I could consider that but I couldn’t guarantee it works because I won’t be able to power it up to test it... Based on time and materials it would cost more than $100 for sure.

[@jessemoore3348]

ok. let me see about getting the panel out. I would be interested. Roughly were would I be sending it?

[@DansWay]

@@jessemoore3348 if you type 'G37 instrument cluster' in ebay you fill find you can get a full unit for less than $100... Some offer mileage update service as well so it matches, but I'm not the expert on that...

[@laclongson9990]

Thanks Dan for an excellent video. Would you let me know if changing the LCD display (between the RPM and Odometer) is possible? If so, do you know the part number?Thank you.

[@DansWay]

I have not done this myself, but I have read that others have either swapped the unit, or changed the overlay/backlights to change from Red to White (or vice versa).

[@dragonkothant]

Can you plz give me advice , I got 2011 g37 sedan , cluster reset by itself , dealer want me to change a cluster . I want to know where can I check for my cluster ?

[@DansWay]

Ko Thant when you say it reset, what does that mean? Doesn’t work, or what?

[@dragonkothant]

Dan Holt it is working but when engine shut it off and turn it back on , everything back to zero . Sometime it happen when on driving too

[@DansWay]

Wow, I’m not sure what to think about that one. You could try re-connecting the big header in the back, but that is a long shot. I would get a used unit off eBay and get it programmed with your mileage.

[@gmoney-fq6ey]

Hi dan....do you have a link for the replacement leds?

[@DansWay]

I would try the Digikey part #160-2044-1-ND as those are lower brightness. They have a different looking pinout, but you can just solder them down across both pads on each side no problem.

[@mikecastro2158]

Hey bro is the lcd info screen solder to the board ? Mines went out and swapping it out with a new one would lose count of my current mileage

[@DansWay]

The mileage is located on a EEPROM soldered to the main board, not the screen (as far as I can tell). If you purchase a different cluster from EBAY, there are sellers who will program the mileage to whatever you tell them from what I can see...

[@mikecastro2158]

Is there any way to see how it looks and the location of it

[@gemargordon6885]

If I wanted to replace my leds to rgb leds what size would you recommend?

[@DansWay]

Are you wanting to remotely control the color of the display and change it over time, or just want a single color? A single color is much more feasible. For that you would change to the same basic footprint part and likely need to change the forward current to get a brightness that would be appropriate to match the other lighting in the interior (could be way to bright or dim). If you want multi-color, then that will require a lot more work as the pads on the PCB are not designed for that. If you REALLY want to hack it, you could take off all the LEDs then wire in each LED on a blob of epoxy and power/control the LEDs outside the instrument cluster with a standard 12V controller. That would be one heck of a hack job because you have a LOT of LEDs to replace. Now if you wanted to just change out the RPM backlight to change colors that would be a bit easier, but not at all trivial. Even cooler if you make the backlight change color with RPM or acceleration. That would be totally sic! Redline would change to Red... ;-)

[@gemargordon6885]

Dan Holt yes I’m wanting to change all rpm and speedo to remote rgb. I’ll keep all the srs and cel the same. My issue is I have the 05 g35 and all mine are hideous orange. So your saying desolder all the leds and solder in like an rgb strip connected to a wireless controller.

[@DansWay]

@@gemargordon6885 Something like that, but LED strip doesn't bend around corners, like the shape of the tach, so it will be a challenge to get it to sit flat. if it were me, I'd make a thin PCB with the correct shape to hold bare LEDs over the same spot on the display. Crazy amount of work to accomplish, but it would look really cool for sure. How much would you pay for that?

[@AJMoore4444]

@@DansWay I would pay good money even for a simple color change with good quality lens that won't burn out as quick

[@rollinthunder815]

Great video Dan... do you do this as a business? I have a cluster that needs your help. I’m located in NY

[@DansWay]

Hey Gary, sorry to say I don't do this as a business as my free time is limited... I'd suggest getting the cluster removed and finding an engineer friend who has the equipment to remove and replace the LEDs. Otherwise check out ebay for people selling used clusters: ebay.us/hJA4rt

[@peytonhanson3335]

Hey Dan ik it's been a while since you posted this video but I'm currently soldering on new leds and after plugging in the board and testing them out only some of my Leds are lighting up. But when I do a continuity test on them every single led passes, any idea?

[@DansWay]

I'll assume you have all of the LEDs oriented properly. They should be turning on in groups of 3 (or 2?) right? Are you noticing that each group of 2/3 are off, or are you getting individual LEDs not turning on? You can follow the traces from the upper LED down through two or three of them, down to a resistor and IC closer to the bottom of the PCB. You could send me a couple good photos to dtdw 'at' danholt.net if you like.

[@DansWay]

Looking again, I talk about the arrangement of LEDs in pairs at 11:10. If you see just one of the two LEDs turn on, then you either have a bad part or a part in backwards. You can apply a current directly to the LEDs using a current-controlled power supply. Set the current to 10mA, and place the positive and negative leads directly across the LEDs to confirm they are working. Forward voltage should be

[@peytonhanson3335]

@@DansWay whoops yeah I figured it out, I had some of them flipped 180°. Appreciate the really quick response though!

[@DansWay]

@@peytonhanson3335 no worries! Glad this was helpful to you. The G37 is a fun car for sure. Never got old feeling that acceleration!

[@nandiito]

Awesome work! man I am great at working with my hands, I have skill I have taken complete dashboards apart but this will be a challenge! Not sure if I wanna take it lol might look around for one to just replace. Question though.. did you really put 10000 miles on your car from the previous video to this one? lol

[@DansWay]

LOL nandiito the shots you saw where from when I was observing the problem over time. This work happened within a week. Go for it if you can, or source one then use that as a backup plan if it doesn’t work out. That is what gave me the courage to take the needles off the first time. Knew where to get one as a backup.

[@mauriceprudhomme5296]

Thanks I’m about to tackle my odometer than suddenly went dark

[@amata42009]

Where do i get the replacement leds for the clustet

[@DansWay]

Antonio Rivera take a look at the video comment in the first video in the series. I’ll try to add the links in the video description as well.

[@williecastellanos6544]

Where did you get the replacement leds?

[@DansWay]

Hey Willie, please check the description for the Digikey.com part numbers

[@bloodsweatandtires]

What tool is that you used to pull of the led?

[@DansWay]

I used a hot-air gun designed for surface-mount rework. Like this one: amzn.to/2y73D2q

[@bloodsweatandtires]

@@DansWay I am very thankful for the quick response. I am replacing my g35 cluster with blue and white smd leds. After a ton of research last night I found the size I need for this job is plcc-4. Do you know anything about resetting the needles on a g35 coupe. I assume I follow the same steps. Do you know if resoldering the speedometer will make it work correctly or do you know anything about these cars? I know it's a loaded question thank you

[@DansWay]

@@bloodsweatandtires I'm not sure what you mean by resetting the needles. You can see in my video where I just moved the needles to the 'stop' to find where they should be at zero setting. I'm not aware of any particular difference in the G35 vs. G37 in this regard. I'm not sure what your speedometer issue is or if the solder is the real problem or not. Worth a shot if you have it all opened up.

[@thegarebear4878]

Hey Dan, really hope you see this, I’m trying to find where to buy these led’s from and the part numbers you put in the description are not valid through digikey anymore, could you please help me find a place to purchase them from?

[@DansWay]

the gare bear, I’ll look for an alternative. Thanks for pointing that out.

[@thegarebear4878]

Dan Holt wow thanks for the quick reply, I wish you luck on finding an alternative!

[@DansWay]

I would now suggest trying part #160-2044-1-ND as these are similar package, but lower brightness. At least one person said they used these and they liked the result. These LEDs only have a single terminal on each end (vs. two) but you can simply solder the single contact on the LED to the two contacts on the PCB with no problem.

[@thegarebear4878]

Dan Holt thanks a lot for helping me find the new part, I just ordered a bunch of them, one last question, how did you remove these leds? Looking at your video it looks like you used a heat gun or something similar to that?

[@thegarebear4878]

Dan Holt while I’m at it what size solder wire did you use? And what about your soldering iron itself? I don’t think the tools I have right now are small enough for this kind of work, and I’m still curious about that desoldering tool you used? Where did you also get that from? Thanks in advanced

[@kevinserrano1996]

Can you do g35 coupe 03?

[@DansWay]

Sorry to say I don't have access to that model year of car...

[@吴小蒙-u1x]

anyone in NZ can do this job？i have 250gt .got one led light flash

[@e7bk]

Your mileage is 109k actual? Or 190k miles

[@DansWay]

Ali Kurdy that is actual mileage.

[@TheXxXxX86]

I have an 07 G35 with the same lights issues, couple leds in the rpm and gas gage. I have have this issue for almost 3 Months and I notice today i have another issue with the trip button is not changing from trip A to B, this this related to the cluster lighting issue? My car has only 68,000 miles. It is pain the butt to fix the light issues🤢. Thank you very much for the videos 👍🏻

[@DansWay]

TheXxXxX86 I’m not sure why the A/B wouldn’t be working. It could be the switch itself I suppose. At least now you know how to get to it if you want to try.

[@TheXxXxX86]

Dan Holt Thanks for reply and thanks again for these videos 👍🏻

[@imty8774]

My airbag light doesn't flash, it stays on.

[@DansWay]

Imteyaz Yousuf in that case you might have an actual airbag problem. Be sure you reconnected the steering wheel airbag properly if the light wasn’t on before you started on this project.

[@RzVids]

You can’t just buy a new cluster huh? You have manually replace these lights wow

[@DansWay]

RzVids you can replace the cluster. They are sold on eBay for sure. I just wanted to continue on to replace the LEDs myself.

[@MrFBI78]

Looks very complicated

[@MrFBI78]

I would rather buy a new cluster

[@abeylove6302]

🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 start of at 20mph