Garage Mods Episode 2: DDM High lift garage door conversion & Chamberlin RJO70 Install

Finally made some real progress on the garage with the DDM high lift garage door conversion and a Chamberlin RJO70 garage door opener! The lift prep is real and I can't wait to get it all wrapped up. Overall this was a super easy process and, after having done it twice, I can honestly say that it's super simple and highly recommended! What else do you think I should do in the garage?
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[@NicksGarageDoorService]

Nice work! I will say however, when you convert to a high lift system, you MUST change the opener out to a jackshaft/wall mount opener like you did here. If you add high lift and attempt to use a standard opener, there’s a good chance you can buckle the top section of the door. This is due to the fact that the opener pulls on the top section. On a standard lift door, the top rollers are immediately able to move back in the curve of the track, and the other sections follow. however on a high lift system the door needs to go up vertically first, and a standard opener basically just pulls straight horizontally. The jackshaft is a must because it works with the springs and lifts everything from the bottom of the door.

[@2JZAddict]

Great info! Thank you for sharing! 🍻👍

[@projectblack2462]

Hes absolutely correct. I am a professional door technician going on 12yrs. A jackshaft is your only option for an operator on a hilift. Most of my customers have a hard time understanding this. Also, I like to cut back my original vertical track about 6 to 8 inches. Then you install your kick out track at a slightly narrower angle. This helps provide enough clearance as the door passes the header, which is important if you have decorative handles on the outside of the door. Another thing i like to do is install commercial bumper stops to keep the door from going more than a few inches higher than the opening. When you calculate your total potential lift height, the top of your horizontal track must be set a minimum of 10 inches from your ceiling, 12 being optimal, which provides clearance for your end plates and drums. Basically, you install the end bearing plate, measure from the top of the track to the bottom of the inner race of that bearing, add .5in for a 1in tube, then measure the diameter of your hilift drums, divide the diameter in half, and you can get within an inch of your maximum lift height. Then you measure from your horizontal track bracket down to where the radius ends (either 12in radius or 15in radius) deduct that amount from the distance from the top of your vertical track to your horizontal track height, and you have your kick out track length, or you can mock it up really quick and just measure the gap between tracks you created. I like to leave the backhang brackets in place for the horizontal tracks instead of removing them so i can use them to support the tracks as i work with them. The weight of your door is crucial to selecting the correct spring, drum, and cable length combo. Also, building code on safety sensors is 4 to 6 inches from the floor. 12in is too high. if you sell your home, you will fail inspection. Not a hard fix, but better to do it correctly first. Your hilift conversion was extremely straightforward, trust me, that tends to be an exception, not the rule. Its worth it to hire a professional. You can get into expensive trouble pretty quick trying to diy it... but i understand the value in doing things for yourself.

[@trucarvelaserengraving8120]

totally agree, and the Jackshaft opener is so easy to install. it should really be the industry standard for garage door openers.

[@dguiley]

@@trucarvelaserengraving8120I have been doing garage door work work a little less than 2 years now. The guy who trained me told me to stay away from jackshaft openers because they can be tricky and spool the cables off the drums. I have had a few service calls because of that but I have also installed quite a few. They definitely have their place and solve some issues. I just completed a door job for a friend where I told him to buy a wall mount opener because there was no overhead clearance where the motor mounted. He didn’t because of the extra cost. I ended up “engineering” a solution where I hung a traditional unit upside down so the motor could sit above one rafter and the rail ran below the rest. Had way more time in it than if he’d have done what I wanted.

[@taquanunlimited]

Man, without this idk where I’d be. Thank you

[@trucarvelaserengraving8120]

I don't usually comment on social media, but I wanted to take a minute and thank you for this video. Really was a huge help in getting our DDM installed. You nailed it on identifying the mistakes that were easy pitfalls and would cause frustration. thanks for taking the time to film this.

[@2JZAddict]

Thanks! I’m glad you found it helpful! 🍻👍

[@sarblade]

I simple cut the 90° track curve about 6” above where it joins to the track next to the wall. I then installed 16” of straight track that I cut off the end of the horizontal track like you did. I supported the track higher on the wall above the cable drums. Next I took my opener, a 8 tooth chain sprocket one. Installed it on the right side of door below the Jack shaft, then using a 26 tooth #41 sprocket on the shaft, I connected it to the motor with a motorcycle chain. After adjusting up and down stops, and the force settings, the door works perfect. Total cost $30

[@greatdoorsandgates4991]

And your door is heavy and dangerous as F😂CK!!!!

[@sarblade]

@@greatdoorsandgates4991 all doors are dude

[@Engineerboy100]

Wow, you killed it, I have a little bit to think about deciding whether to do this myself or have it done. The main issue for me is time ... too many Honey-do's, I got tasks falling off my plate ...

[@2JZAddict]

Thanks! The high lift conversion and direct drive opener were a must for the lift install. There’s no way I’d have been able to stack cars otherwise. 🍻👍

[@andrebrown8792]

Great job, thanks for posting.

[@ericfraser7543]

Another option you could go with is ordering a high lift kit from your Door Mfr, usually there is a serial number on your door you can give them. I just ordered mine from Clopay it cost me $620 to order it from home depot, that included all new tracks, 36"extensions, springs, cables, and new drums. No cutting just bolts right up in place of your old track. Clopay recommends installing "spring bumpers" for high lift doors, where if manually opening someone could push it too far and cause the cables to come off the track. I have read that spring bumpers are good for side mount garage doors to prevent the cable from coming of the drum. I suppose they would serve the same function of the cab;e tension monitor 31:00. Will see how my install goes, still not sure about the spring bumper?

[@jimanddiana4103]

A very helpful video. I learned a lot. I want to do the exact same thing.

[@2JZAddict]

Glad you enjoyed it! 🍻👍

[@808cuda]

Awesome! Thanks for sharing the in depth install. I’m struggling to find a local installer willing to do this install. They all want to sell me a new garage door 🤦🏻‍♂️

[@ericfraser7543]

You would think a side mount garage door opener would be cheaper than an overhead opener with a track, in the end timewise and less mounting hardware it is likely cheaper.

[@grizzlyinvesting]

I really enjoyed this content I just installed this opener with a insulated door on my channel but I not want the high lift track !

[@rodneyhickman598]

You are a Jack of all trades just as I but I am a master of none🤣🤣, thank you very much I really enjoy your content.

[@2JZAddict]

Thanks man! Glad you like it. I’m certainly not a master of any either. Lol Half the time I feel like I know just enough not to mess things up really bad. Haha

[@rodneyhickman598]

@@2JZAddict puhaha I feel ya, I have been subscribed to you for a while and it has been a while. I wish you the best of luck with each endeavor.

[@rogerkingip9399]

This is the best video I have ever watched for handling those control wiring in the machine. If I can put on some tie straps to bundle up the wires, it !would be pe…per fact.

[@zacksgaragedoorserviceandr1208]

Really good install even with the opener you did the emergency release rope and handle correctly I do not see a lot of homeowners do that correctly the only thing I recommend is normally the safety sensors are supposed to be mounted no more than 6 inches above the garage floor and on the ends of the safety sensors and the lock you’re supposed to have pigtails on the end to prevent the wire from being pulled out of the safety sensor if you want to know how to make a pigtail you would wrap the wire around a screwdriver but I do not know if you can put pigtails on them now because do you have everything cut

[@projectblack2462]

I used the end of my winding bar and wrap it around about 10 times. This provides a very pretty pigtail with a TON of strain relief. Plus, my work looks unique so i can tell at a glance if i did the install. Which can come in handy. There are certain things i have always done to sign my work. If someone attempts to say that i did something that is not on my records and theyve lost their original invoice, i can tell immediately if its my work or not. Unfortunately, this can be necessary. I have had customers call me back 5 years later insisting that i installed their opener when all i did was a spring job or the door itself. Ive even had customers tell me i deliberately edited my job notes to omit work that i supposedly did. If you find a way to mark your work, it can erase any confusion. Even if you just grab a permanent marker you can sign and date your repair. This helps cover yourself against being held accountable for another persons work.

[@scottfiresign953]

Great video. So curious why you need different springs if the old springs lifted the door why won't they work with a high lift setup? Looking to add a lift to my garage down the road and will definitely be doing this mod too. Cheers

[@kbright26]

I'm looking to do this modification to my door. And DDM is backed up really far. What was the part number of the spring that was put in your door. My door only weighs 157lbs and it looks as though yours is probably the same. I see the 234 on the spring but need the length of the spring with the cone to order the right one. Thank you for this video.

[@mwreyf1]

FYI...You installed the cable tension sensor upside down. For right side of garage installs you needed to pull the pin on the handle that lays against the cable and move it to the right side of the sensor. Not sure if over time it could cause a safety issue.

[@2JZAddict]

I did, you’re right. Flipping it would have certainly made for a cleaner install. Lol 🤣🤦🏻‍♂️ Thank you for pointing that out. That might need to be a weekend project for my own sanity. It won’t cause a safety issue. It’s just simple contact switch.

[@haeremaru]

Very helpful. How close to the ceiling can you put the horizontal track?

[@2JZAddict]

Thanks! I’m glad you found it helpful! That would be a great question for the guys at DDM. I definitely could have gone higher but didn’t really need to. It would have just been a longer vertical extension. Right now the top of the horizontal is about a 10” drop from the ceiling.

[@projectblack2462]

Short answer rule of thumb is minimum 10inches optimally 12in from the top of your horizontal track to the ceiling... This can be calculated by installing your end bearing plate on your horizontal track, measure the distance between the top of the track bracket you installed the end bearing onto to the bottom of the end bearing inner race, add .5in to fing the center point of your 1in bearing, then take your NEW drum, measure its total diameter, divide that in half, and add to the first measurement of your end bearing. The result is USUALLY around 10inches, 12 being considered optimal. I tell my customers to expect a 12 inch gap between the top of the track and ceiling. That way when i get it tighter they are pleased rather than disappointed. Also, the top of the door sits a few inches above the track. Making it further impossible to kiss the ceiling with the track as most customers envision when seeking this modification. If you are REALLY hurting for vertical space, you can do a low headeoom conversion where your cables and drums sit outside the track which requires special bottom brackets and reversed torsion system. Thatll buy you an extra 4 to 5 inches, but i dont recommend it.

[@25buschlights32]

Did you do this without taking garage doors off? I never saw them off. I just bought brand new doors with all the new hardware but I want to practice on the old doors first before I start cutting up brand new track. Thanks for this video. Best one I've seen on this kind of project

[@2JZAddict]

Yep - the doors stayed on. Make sure you pin the top door section to the cross beam so it doesn’t flop over when you remove the upper section of track.

[@25buschlights32]

Thanks

[@2JZAddict]

You’re welcome! Good luck with the conversion! 🍻👍

[@projectblack2462]

I usually take 2 3in nails with a wide head (like a roofing nail) and pin the top corners of the door with these. Technically you could let your top panel hang on its hinges with a light door but that can get in your way when you work...

[@mervinm7979]

If you wanted to, would the old opener work?? Want to do this but don’t want to spend on two new openers. Saw another video where he reused his openers but he only raised the rails about 1.5 feet.... don’t know if it makes a difference how high you raise to need a side mount opener.

[@2JZAddict]

I’m honestly not sure. Maybe? You’d need to run an extension on the pull arm but as long as the springs are tensioned properly then theoretically it should be alright. Make sure to confirm that with your own research. I needed a side mount opener for this because I was trying to stack cars. That wouldn’t have been possible if tried to reuse the old one. I’m not convinced my old one would have been up to the task anyway. It was pretty old. Lol With a wall mount though I can stack cars, no problem.

[@alexly627]

When the entire bar that holds the torsion spring is removed, do you have to unwind it first ?

[@2JZAddict]

Yes.

[@aarondeems5575]

DDM is backed up over a month to put this kit together. Could you possibly provide the part numbers from the kit so I can order the individual parts from them? I have a 16'x8' door weighing 414lbs. Looks about the same as yours. thanks

[@2JZAddict]

I can get you the PNs but your door is a lot heavier than mine. That means the spring set would be undersized for your application.

[@gregp1538]

Nice mod!! What kind of insulation are you using?

[@2JZAddict]

Thanks! I used whatever they were selling at Lowes. Lol it comes in 4’ “sheets” that for snug in standard stud widths. They install in no time at all. Used the same stuff for the ceiling too.

[@gregp1538]

@@2JZAddict thanks dude.

[@NRV44]

Do you know what could be a problem if a garger door open by it self? How do you troubleshoot and fix issue? thx

[@2JZAddict]

Is your opener connected when the door opens or does it pop up when you disconnect the opener?

[@NRV44]

@@2JZAddict It closes propery but then it randomly opens up every 30min or 1 hr. Then close by it self.

[@Dragoncito323232]

Theoretically couldn’t you just move all the rails up and add the extra vertical two rails to the bottom?

[@2JZAddict]

Nope - if you just move the extension straight up without the angle, the door will hit the crossbeam.

[@SteveP-vm1uc]

JUST A TIP: Around the 10:15 mark, you show the use of a protractor, but really the track has a rounded edge where you need it flat. So here's the tip: between the track and the protractor add a piece of square tubing, wood, paint stick or anything else you may have that would make sure you are parallel from the track to the protractor. Sounds kind of snotty, but if you are doing the best job you can, this will certainly make it better!!

[@jgoody7467]

It's plus on one side and minus on the other ding dong

[@AW-yv9sq]

How much was the kit?

[@2JZAddict]

When I ordered it a couple years ago it was $340. Not sure what price increases they may have had since then.

[@DDMGarageDoors]

The kits typically range from $400 to $600, depending on what your door needs.

[@Jpanime13]

1ST