We convert a Lada motor to air cooling

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If you every wondered why Porsche switched over to water cooling - it's becaus air cooling "is tooough".
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[@festungkurland9804]

air cooled often basically means oil cooled. so add a big oil cooler and more oil capacity.

[@lasskinn474]

well, you could just replace the cooling liquid with oil and drill a hole to combine the circuits or have the return back down through the radiator from the head

[@a.x.l.2.078]

Agree

[@volvo09]

My air cooled Honda motorcycle has a pretty large oil cooler in front of the engine. The 4 cylinder engine doesn't have big fins on the cylinders, so it's all done by the oil cooler.

[@TheRattyBiker]

Nah.... Air cooled often means a whopping great set of fins around the cylinder, great air flow and no seperate oil radiator.... There are plenty of classic examples that prove that... It didn't work out too great in higher compression and / or 4 stroke engines hence the advancement to air cooled oil radiators.... Which actually work quite well - simple example is Suzuki Bandit 600, popular, reliable, high compression 4 cylinder 4 stroke.....

[@CommeradeZhukov]

I did that to a 91 Chevy lumina in high school, I added a condenser from a window ac unit as an oil cooler, set the radiator fan to always run and cut some air vents into the hood for a sporty look 😆. Oh yeah and I also ran some dryer duct to where the water pump used to be towards the fan so air could circulate through the engine and come out where the radiator hoses used to be. The car ran like that until the chassis rusted through and had to be scrapped.

[@jerrywinsler6190]

As someone else mentioned air cooled engine aren't just air cooled they're also oil cooled. The VW beetle has a small radiator for the oil sticking up off the engine inside the air handler.

[@IDT69]

A Deutz is an example of an air cooled engine

[@NOONE-hp8bw]

My bike is just air cooled. 1992 xj600s diversion/seca II. I am going to be adding a oil cooler because it does get a bit toasty.

[@girlsdrinkfeck]

and Florida is hotter than 85 degrees lool

[@freakyfreerider]

All air cooled engines that have lubrication systems are "oil cooled". The flow of oil from the cylinder head back down displaces heat from the top end.

[@kylereese4822]

2 turbo charger compressors belt driven... 1 the water inlet sucking in air to keep head cool >> 1 on the outlet sucking the heat away from the block... ?

[@eliask6180]

did a conversion similar to this to a industrial diesel engine a few years back, because it had a hairline crack in the block and burned coolant. I used a big turbocharger, driven by exhaust like usual, but the compressor side was connected to the engines water jackets. Where possible also holes and slits were made in the block, to have the air circualte. That engine runs flawlessly to this day

[@brockallentaylor]

Using the turbo to force air into the water jackets is a pretty damn brilliant idea.

[@HA05GER]

now that is cool

[@Adam-nv9zo]

That is ingenuity at its finest. 👏 👏 👏

[@mrrooter601]

please try this

[@brockallentaylor]

If this is around and working still, you should make a video of it. It would definitely do well.

[@700TRX]

Surface area. You need cooling fins to dissipate the heat away from the cylinders and the head.

[@speedyme200]

I was saying the exact same thing need cooling fans just like air cooled engines

[@Eduardo_Espinoza]

How was the bowler fan connected?

[@emanh4keem_san420]

​@@speedyme200 tell them to fab fins around the engine

[@patrickbrady447]

Yes when I heard what they were doing I thought they would cut the block to the cylindres and add fins and to the head too and the add fins and close it all off the add a big fan at the front. Like a Deuts.

[@gabrielv.4358]

or insert a LOT AND I MEAn a LOT of coolef fans on that engine

[@jacobrzeszewski6527]

This actually worked way better than I was expecting. I was expecting Chernobyl with pistons melting into the elephant's foot within minutes of starting the engine.

[@RBMK1500]

you better press AZ-5 before that happens!

[@volvo09]

That lasted a LOT longer than I imagined. I say add a large oil cooler and try it again.

[@shaggy92279]

I’d also imagine combing the things people mentioned before, but also maybe a better fan? A blower motor probably isn’t putting out enough air? Great channel by the way! It’s too bad we can’t visit so easily. Common people don’t have problems being friends. It’s just our damn governments!

[@SUBZEROinfinity]

Use A small turbo and route the outlet to the motor. Even small turbo's have more air pressure then stock fan's. This should cool the motor to satisfaction. Also make the holes In the head A bit bigger. Awesome video.

[@1NIGHTMAREGAMER]

idea put a amr300-500 connected to a regular water radiator it blows through the rad then out into a inter-cooler then into engine comes out the other side of the engine water hole and back into the amr300-500 or any super charger i wonder if that would be enough air flow to keep it cool i just dont think that tiny fan was fast enough i think this would provide better cooling cause turbo requires the engine to be spinning past idle a roots supercharger moves are no matter what

[@xaominheotar616]

This video is the exact reason to wait and watch the whole your channel

[@soldierbk2268]

You have to strip the engine off the channels so expose outer cylinder sides and weld some kind of radiator fins onto them

[@desnick2316]

Put a fan that is powered by the crank for more flow, maybe to both sides of the engine. Add more holes for better ventilation, add an oil cooler.

[@sidgreen921]

That could work to cool it. Adding cooling fins could also work.

[@desnick2316]

@@sidgreen921 Yes, definitely. But it would be hard to add cooling fins on the engine since there is a cavity for the coolant around the cylinders.

[@sidgreen921]

@@desnick2316 You're right about that

[@zsombor_99]

Install a small "intercooler" for the oil to where the normal radiator used to be! 😉

[@1234567890CAB]

Definitely surface area, perhaps loosely stuffing the coolant passages with coarse copper wool/brillo/scouring pads. But I was also thinking what if you used a turbo instead of an electric blower motor. Hook up the hot side like normal with the exhaust, but then the compressed air from the other side is directed into the coolant passages instead. That way when the engine is under more load, there is more air being forced through the engine.

[@peterduxbury927]

Use the Radiator that you took out of the car, and reconnect this to contain lots and lots of Oil. Put a Temp Sensor into the top of the Radiator. Keep the Radiator Fan turning with the engine. Then utilise the water pump to circulate the oil, but not through the water Coolant Galleries. Q=mct. You will then increase the MASS of the oil - which will be cooled through the Huge Radiator itself. A simple Blower across the cylinder head (from the back of the engine to the front), should suffice to keep the rear cylinders cool, next to the Fire Wall, as these would normally be the first to heat-up without any water or coolant.You could also remove the Sump Filter Screen - for improved Oil Flow, and also remove the Oil Filter Element too! I am certain that the car would run much longer than it did.... Greetings from Australia.

[@thogevoll]

You guys really pull off some crazy stuff. It's fun to watch.

[@chinomedina88]

Maybe you could try installing a second fan with an oil radiator, kind of like VW aircooled engines

[@davewolf8869]

Garage 54, asking the REAL questions

[@meeeoooow]

Love this channel.😀 It always looks miserably cold there, though!🥶

[@jonathanryan2915]

Don't worry, they do have summer too

[@hughjass1835]

Summer is one week in August

[@thedarkknight1971]

Maybe next version... Carving off ALL the outer 'Water Jacket' housing, and welding on cooling fins (the radiator fan is already in place ready for it) and also adding a mid sized 'Oil cooler' radiator (kinda like an older motorbike engine design)... 🤔😏😉👍 😎🇬🇧

[@19jacobob93]

I would have added MoS2 (Molybdenum Disulphide/Liqui Moly anti-friction) as well. It was an old trick to add to VW air cooled units in warmer climates, so that there was still an anti-friction barrier when the oil got too hot and started to break down. It's great at lowering temps to begin with since it reduces friction so much, and I add it to all my engines anyway, both modern and old, and all water cooled.

[@Rrgr5]

Nice, what will be the next one? Boxer/flat Lada engines? Probably would be a difficult task, but... Considering what you guys do...

[@thedarkknight1971]

THAT'S a GOOD idea! They've lined 2, 3 and 4 full motors up together (making, effectively an inline 8, 12 and 16), so, a Lada boxer '8' could be a cool thing to try. Hahaha put it against a 'Scooby' flat 4/6 🤔😉🤣🤣👍 😎🇬🇧

[@willierule3744]

If you had an external oil cooler and you added that to a nice size one and then put a fan on it and it continued to use air to keep it cool I think you guys would do much better. Very good show thank you.

[@digitalchaos1980]

This is gonna be awesome! 😎

[@danbergthold3481]

You guys always have have the best ideas. This idea in particular is sheer genius. In tropical Siberia where you really have no use for a heater in your car or in your homes for that matter, air-cooling makes perfect sense. With only 8 or 9 months of very mild winters, a heater is just one more superfluous system that is destined to fail, leading to downtime and needless expense. Why have it? Maybe you guys could glue some plastic fins on the engine so it LOOKS like it's air-cooled. Then install some big air scoops on both fenders - kinda like the back of a Zaporozhets. These simple mods should make all the difference! By the way, that test car is absolutely gorgeous!

[@gabrielv.4358]

Really, I am ALWAYS amazed at what you guys create, lol!

[@brotang2953]

Maybe use a turbocharger as a blower? Rear mount it and run long alloy tubing back up to the front to an intercooler then into the block via a manifold that directs air to each cylinder.

[@MadScientist267]

Air isn't efficient enough to do without additional surface area for it to interact with. This is what the fins on an air cooled engine are about. Order of magnitude more surface area (at least!)

[@brotang2953]

@@MadScientist267 volume of air makes a difference, if you have have a thousand cubic foot of air blasting past a cylinder a minute your still going to get more cooling than 100 cubic foot a min🤷🏻‍♂️. Everyone knows what works, it's about trying the unknown and seeing how effective it is😉.

[@brotang2953]

@@MadScientist267 the cylinders actually don't need that much cooling, it's the head that takes on most of the heat as well.

[@MadScientist267]

@@brotang2953 You can't squeeze enough air by it without the fins present to make it work. I like this channel but some of the ideas are derpy. There was nothing anyone was going to do to that engine that was going to make it survive this experiment. I knew that ahead of time, and as such have never (and wouldn't) bothered trying this "conversion". When common sense clearly indicates something, there's no point in going thru the motions unless you're just showing how wrong it will go. Even Vlad there knew the deal, but because KZbin creators have to sell out to stay relevant, this shit pops up. Not all the ideas are bad (the engine braking valve was an intriguing idea)... But this? This is just "yet another way to blow a 4 banger"... Not very "great" on any level 🤷‍♂️

[@brotang2953]

@@MadScientist267 I think it's a bit less serious than all that, they essentially try out ideas people come up with and see how effective they are or aren't. Experimenting for the sake of experimenting basically. As a welder I know what your saying but I kinda disagree to some extent. You can actually greatly cool down hot metal with nothing but air😅, example being if I weld a piece of metal and and then leave it in open air it could be several minutes before it's cool enough to pickup, if I hit it directly with the air gun it cuts that time down quite considerably, of course to almost instantly cool it ya throw it in a bucket of water lol but if you feed enough air past a flat piece of steel it does actually take quite a bit of heat out. I agree my idea will overheat as well but I think you'd get at least a few times the runtime before it did. If you water cooled just the head and blast cooled the cylinders it might be enough to keep it running for quite a decent time.

[@White_Fang2102]

Thank you for research , it's the Best Research

[@shrapnut7612]

MORE FAN! Great viddy, thank you, sir's.

[@AlienLivesMatter]

Please do this testing again in the summer. That FrankenLada is epic. Maybe use an industrial blower centrifugal air pump

[@Gres-iu2iw]

it goes without saying but garage 54 is awesome and BMI Russian is a legend for his contribution as well

[@PhaQ2]

Aside from running an oil cooler, try adding some aluminum fins. Maybe some old computer CPU coolers bonded to the head and block?

[@atlascallisto1461]

More Phonk work montages! These are so cool!

[@tangowhiskeytrailertranspo6662]

I think you should not have drilled any holes in the block. The fan was merely blowing the air out of the holes nearest it. You should have just removed the thermostat, the radiator and lower radiator hose, then connected a shop-vac to the thermostat housing to draw air through the water passageways. I believe this would have provided the most air circulation and cooling.

[@ILOVEBACONBOY2018]

Absolutley love this channel.

[@Krashnikov]

garage 54's ultimate creation will be an air cooled diesel powered 4WD lada xD

[@TundeEszlari]

You are a very good KZbinr. ❤

[@72polara]

A Lada is a tough little car! I would love to see the engine taken down and see the damage.

[@dafuq2165]

Me: how many ladas do you have Garage54: yes

[@volkswagenation]

Fins...lots and lots of fins like an air-cooled motorcycle engine. I had a Honda CB 750 inline 4 DOHC that was air-cooled. It was basically a small car engine. The bulk of engine size was due to the cooling fins. It sure radiated off the heat. I could warm my hands while riding on a cold day but it wasn't happy to not to sit still and idle. Another idea for the air-cooled idea is to pull air through the water cooling system from one end with a turbo intercooler on the intake side using the in and out from where the radiator would connect. This would allow air to be slightly cooled by the intercooler before being drawn around the water jacket then ejecting the heated air from the engine.

[@coastalcleaningandmaintena2884]

Hey that just shows how tough those dam ol ladas were. In Canada i got one when i was 13 and thought id break it in 15 mins and im fairly certain the car still running somewhere in Canada that was 1992

[@rocknraptor3195]

Need to add a oil cooler!👍 Blower fan was a good idea .

[@markchapman2585]

Great video guys. Keep up the great content

[@raytork5674]

amazing lada engines

[@paulog8813]

Would like to see the same experiment but with the addition of an oil radiator for cooling the oil.

[@gabrielv.4358]

What a great torture test!

[@lordmawjr]

cut as much of the outer motor case away as you can and copper clad the walls then use a spot rod welder (like ones used to weld rods on to body panels to pull out dents ) to weld 12 gauge copper rods about 3 to 4 inches long onto the copper clad walls. then use multiple electric blowers to blast the whole engine surface with airflow .

[@anatolklops]

The biggest thing here is that there isn't enough surface area for the engine to dissipate heat. So what if the engine has a large air flow as the cylinders are cooled by their smooth surface. This is why air-cooled motors are finned. It will be hard to do without a new engine casting specially made for this purpose. Certainly, an oil cooler and an increased capacity of the oil pan (not the oil level, more oil with the same level in relation to the engine shaft) would help a lot here, and you could make an additional pump that would pump cold oil and pour it in the head in large quantities so that it spills in it and flows back into the bowl. All this, however, without the correct ribbing of the cylinders will probably only prolong the agony of the engine, instead of allowing it to work theoretically indefinitely.

[@uooello13]

king of 3plan at the beginning

[@emersonpierotti9547]

Creio que faltaram no projeto um radiador de óleo com ventilação forçada, um outro ventilador entrando na parte dianteira do bloco, uma segunda junta para reduzir a taxa de compressão e aumentar um os gaps dos aneis dos pistões. Adoro seus experimentos, vocês desafiam a engenharia. Então de parabéns.

[@me3333]

A lot of people have mentioned running an oil cooler and I think that would help but the coldest oil in the world wont stop the head gaskets from blowing. With the lack of cooling fins and gap between the cylinders and the block, I bet you would have to fill the coolant passages with Aluminum or something to transfer the heat better.

[@remskolney4040]

Put the radiator back in only connect it to an electric oil pump, plus one giant turbo from a truck instead of that tiny electric fan to force air into the block.

[@danielross1033]

There are ways that this may be able to be improved on a oil cooler and a fan shroud with ducting so the airflows faster as the engine rpm goes up and possibly more/bigger holes for ventilation may even be able to use a old turbo but using the fan on the engine or one from a zaz engine might also work pretty good

[@adamgray2070]

I think more air flow will help keep it cooler longer. Maybe even another fan (bigger fan) on top, or on other side of engine. Probably just more fans.

[@MrAmrmnabil]

Install an oil inter-cooler, and attach the largest fan u can find to it.

[@alex_stanley]

You need a LOT more oil and a radiator to cool it off. The 1982 Porsche 911SC I owned in the late '80s had a 12 quart oil capacity.

[@m4d_mark_xtr3me79]

2 things air cooled engines have that this currently does not... 1. Cooling fins to cool down the block and cylinder head. (Big heat sinks) 2. Oil cooler to keep the engine temps down and possibly even a dry sump system to stop the heat build up.

[@teardowndan5364]

Fill the coolant passages with liquid tin, machine the engine as flat as oil passages and accessories attachments will allow, then bolt on a bunch of CPU coolers. Engines waste about 30% of their combustion heat through the cooling system, which means you'd need about 20kW of cooling capacity which is somewhere between 100 and 200 PC heatsinks depending on the model. Doubt you can fit 100 under the hood though. Also, PC heat pipes are designed to operate at 30-70C on the cold side, probably won't work too well with a combustion engine designed to run at about 100C.

[@Remingtonrestoration]

to get more air, take the turbo from a semi, install it on the exhaust & take the air from the intake side & run it into the engine after it goes thru the inter cooler

[@user-wd8gk8dl1g]

I have a few ideas you guys propably already thought about.😂😂😂 Maybe you guys can carefully mill away the outer cooling jacket of the engine block, weld strips of iron or aluminum on to the engine block and cylinder head with a small gap between each strip. (depending on what type of material the engine block and cylinder head is made of) This will increase the surface area of the cylinder head and cylinders; therefore, promote overall cooling efficiency. In addition, if you look at motorcycles, chainsaws, post- war VW Beatle, etc, most of these machines utilize air handling ducts that channel air through the cooling fins with the use of a mechanical fan. As for oil cooling, looking back on the VW Beatle they utilized an oil cooler to wick away heat. In that case, cannibalize a large oil cooler from a heavy-duty pickup truck or semi tractor (or whatever you can get you hands on) and retrofit the cooler to the oil system. This will increase your oil capacity and further promoter engine cooling. Keep in mind that I'm not an automotive engineer nor a engine disigner, these are just some ideas. I hope you guys find them helpfull. I'm sure you'll figure something out. I can't wait for a new video to come out about this topic. Keep up the good work. God bless you and your team.

[@seldomseen7835]

A turbocharger feeding into the radiator hose fitting as well as a forced induction funnel doing the same. My first thought was do the drill holes area equal the induction area so more holes. Either aerodynamic suction or an exhaust gas ejector suction. Ho and also an oil cooler but you must have thought of that. Wobbels the mad Aussie

[@boshaznip]

Need more surface area on the block to dissipate the heat. All air cooled motors are covered in fins to increase the surface area, same with radiators how they have lots of small folded fins, all about maximising the surface area. Air has a much worse heat capacity than water, which is why you need a much bigger area to carry enough heat away. I suggest adding a small radiator for the oil, such as a transmission cooler etc, and then cut away the outer water jacket on the block, keeping enough to maintain structural integrity. Then weld in lots of thin horizontal plates as cooling fins, as many as you can fit, and make sure they touch the inner cylinder housings within the block as this is where the heat is generated.

[@ninjajunpei1984]

Add an oil cooler to the oiling system to aid the keeping the temperatures down and add a stronger blower to the side of the block. Then,make the holes that were drilled into the cylinder head larger. That should keep the temperatures down.

[@StinaCole]

More surface area, like the fins on a radiator or a heatsink, would help the engine exchange more heat with the incoming air.

[@atlasgunther8947]

water transfers temp and cools immediately, whilst air cooling is just the surface cooling but not transferring the cooler mass of the air behind the surface warming up and thus very weak cooling affect

[@tonydiesel3444]

Y'all need to get a team together of the best engine builders in the area and build a diesel engine specifically designed to run off waste oil permanently for long long periods of time with no issues and no damage to the engine this will help a lot of people

[@chemsoldier83]

That old soviet motor is definitely more durable than anything made today.

[@GiveAcademy]

Stuff the water jackets with coarse steel or copper wool., to increase cooling surface area. Then blow high pressure air through it.

[@MHLivestreams]

Weld fins on the cylinder head, and turn the radiator fan blade the opposite way to force cool air in, and add an oil cooler.

[@gageburns2263]

You guys should add some cooling fins on both sides of the head for better cooling too like an old motor bike. Surely it would be a big help rather than just the bare head with holes drilled in it. But still wicked video ✌️

[@salmansiddiq4521]

Adding an oil cooler and a leaf blower for cooling the block should help it by a large extent.

[@jackradzelovage6961]

make a shroud for the stock cooling fan to direct it into the block. that way cooling will be bigger across the board, AND it will be rpm dependent

[@jamesmcmasters9392]

The mad Max Lada

[@pockets5921]

The exit vents for the hot air or right over the top of the intake of the air fan cooling it if the event was away from the air intake there might be a better also I agree with the comment that that a good oil cooler line would be helpful

[@REDLINERUNNER]

Old "Air cooled" tractors used to have a big turbine fan and big oil cooler.

[@carlfrizell2849]

I think that if you pipe the intake of the carburettor to the top of the engine where the thermostat is but take out the thermostat that would get the air moving through the cooling part of the engine, it would do away with needing an electric fan aswell, also you need a big oil cooler.

[@jameshedrick605]

Try putting another fan in to see of that would help

[@errantry4]

Welding many large but thin fins to the block and head will probably really help.

[@slowcarshop]

more lada science!

[@3dartstudio007]

A beetle belt drive squirrel cage fan perhaps? The "crazy" idea I can think of would be using a whole bunch of heat sink putty like they use on computer CPU's to get the heat from the inside the block to aluminum cooling fins on the outside of the block. Or pour the whole block full of heat sink compound so the inside cylinder walls can transfer heat to the outside of the engine block?

[@DaCheapChimp]

Increase surface area like adding fins or larger Chambers and blowers fans. But ideally you need air going across the engine while running. You really can't idle for too long without the proper airflow. Go on a trip and take a trailer if the engine blows. 👍👍

[@hughjass1835]

You need fins around the cylinders, a shroud around the whole thing,a fan that moves 3 times as much air and an oil cooler

[@conorkar2492]

i suggest to cut the outer wall of the block with a grinder so that air comes straight to the metal that contacts oil. maybe then you can weld cooling wings to the block and cylinder head and add a big belt driven fan in front of the engine(electric fans are good enough to cool down a radiator with low effort because of aluminium heat properties and the coolant flow But a metal wall with holes...i think not) maybe you can check out some deutz aircooled tractors to get an idea!!

[@evertsaayman6505]

Like your channel. I got a sugestion. Try to make a 4 stroke engine run backwards.

[@2103i]

Need an oilcooler with a vent! Huge one!

[@grandpaseed]

yea i'm on the oil cooling group put a 10 lt. alum. tank on the roof an put the rad back in filled with oil routed through an oil bypass filter thingy. slice the water jacket into fins

[@lucasmonks5767]

Use turbo direted to engine block in place of the little electric fan. and the radiator as a big oil cooler

[@russbilzing5348]

You would need an aluminum head and steel sleeved block if you were going to effect a better heat transfer. Henry Ford used a finned copper alloy head for his attempt to make the Model T into an air cooled engine.

[@ericcaves7530]

I'm just wondering: would a draw-through, engine driven setup and small windows cut into the cylinder head be more effective?

[@antionedavid]

crazy man

[@thedarkknight1971]

The engine may also be noticeably louder as the 'Water jacket' has been 'Removed'. Us bikers know as 'Air/oil' cooled motorbike engines are more noisier than liquid cooled bikes. 😏 😎🇬🇧

[@donamulka1407]

I would say to fill the block with cast aluminum where the water goes, although I think that would work well in an aluminum block and not so much in a cast iron one

[@off-gridoutbackaustralia]

Maybe some heatsinks with heat tubes going from inside the head , and a large oil cooler

[@snakehead3650]

In other words y'all would be basically rebuilding the whole top half of the engine block

[@mtn.lion_bait]

Dry sump oil system with more oil and a big cooler maybe?

[@sadrhogollsodia9505]

What the hell? A two minute ad I couldn't skip?

[@fryncyaryorvjink2140]

You should make a car that has essentially a giant impact wrench in place of the transmission

[@mikeglenn3333]

Take a spare head and build it into an air cooled head. Take the water cooled bits out of the head an weld cooling fins around it. Then get a racing oil cooler and a fan to cool the engine down

[@Petrolhead99999]

What about a turbo with the compressor side routed into the water jackets? Provides more cooling proportional to engine load, much more volume than a blower fan, and high enough static pressure to overcome restrictions and flow through all the passages.

[@Chappomusic]

Runs Like New !

[@nuttyDesignAndFab]

bigger holes for more flow. You want at least the same open area as the fan inlet.