Gas furnace spark ignition controls

[@mikesousa5298]

I was scrolling through you tube for over an hour looking for info on these things. Thanks!

[@grayfurnaceman]

Welcome GFM

[@jimsergi]

thank you, i found the problem on no heat you are the best on the net I have 30+ units and you are saving me some $$$

[@grayfurnaceman]

+Jim Sergi Merry Christmas GFM

[@slewcharles926]

+grayfurnaceman .

[@hvacforanyone8594]

Thanks very much. 02-28-2020 in north jersey temperature 28F. My boiler when off , checking videos after i check all my sensor i find you. my flame sensor was bad , not having any replacement at 11:30pm , my idea was clean the sensor with a dollar bill and a work. All family finally can get sleep. Thanks again Im ready member if you videos. Best Rachel Hvac Mechanical

[@grayfurnaceman]

Glad you got it going. GFM

[@grayfurnaceman]

Is it possible the polarity is reversed? Or possibly poor ground? The spark coming seems to be against these problems. If it is electronic pilot ignition, and the pilot valve is not getting power, the board is the problem. If it is direct fire ignition, of course there is no pilot but the gas valve is only open for 4 to 7 seconds. Hope some of this helps. GFM

[@carlosnieves980]

What is the difference between capable control 261008 and 210008 if I can use it

[@grayfurnaceman]

I have seen reversed polarity from electrical work done on the panel. You might try using your clamp meter to see if amperage is going thru to energize the gas valve. Also, make sure gas is available. Hope it helps. GFM

[@achristian7015]

See that blue ignitor, I think it is a JC G776 RGD-14 series unit in my old 1996 Lennox furnace. Well I fixed it for under $5. The PV would start up and then drop out. Why? Because the relay in the unit had failed due to increased resistance of the relay contacts as they heated up due to current. As the voltage at the PV which started at 23V and then dropped to 11V, the voltages across the relay contacts would increase from 0V to 12V. That unit is now 24 years old with each set of relays (PV & MV) lasting about 12 years.

[@polishtheturdmickelson5473]

I remember those JC G60's on older Trane and Aaon units. On older Lennox residential furnaces they were somehow built into the gas valve. JC, the other one. Has been nicknamed the blue box of death in the industry. Very high failure rate on package units on those in my experience.

[@kneedragnr1]

I'm in the process of making a commercial size smoker. The first one I made was all electric. This particular one is LP fired. It uses Honeywell and Barber-Coleman PIDs to monitor and control compartment and meat temps. I've also incorporated a small PLC to control everything else, like solenoid valves for shower unit, convection fans, and alarms. Originally I had used a Honeywell board and gas valve off of a furnace, which used a hot surface ignition. This ended up being a bad choice as I never could get a consistent flame due to the combustion air blower I'm using. I've now went back to the drawing board and am planning to use a Honeywell S8670K direct spark ignition control and a White Rodgers 36H32-423 direct spark or intermittent pilot valve that I've purchased off Ebay. My question to you is (of course, I will be using a flame proving device), can I eliminate the pilot by plugging it @ valve and go directly to main and, if so, do I just simply not wire anything to both the valve and control pilot terminals?

[@grayfurnaceman]

The valve must have both the pilot and main valve energized to work. Yes you can plug the pilot port. Hope this helps. GFM

[@kneedragnr1]

I'm gonna give it a shot. Thanx!

[@kneedragnr1]

Couple more questions... 1) If I wire up all PV terminals according to manufacturer but plug the pilot port on valve, will the main open when calling for heat? Just curious where it gets it's gas from. 2) I was operating under the assumption that this ignition module would give continuous spark even after flame proven. From manufacturer's literature, it looks like that is not the case. With combustion air flow, it certainly looks as if I'll need continuous spark, otherwise it blows flame out.

[@grayfurnaceman]

The main and pilot valve are in series. So you can only get gas flow if both are energized. It will not spark continuously. It sparks until flame is proved. If it loses flame, the gas flow is stopped usually within 1/2 second. GFM

[@kneedragnr1]

Yeah, that's what I suspected. I'm leaning towards getting a ignition transformer for continuous spark. Thoughts?

[@pelletman65]

HI GFM. Thanks in advance for your help! I have a Weil McLain Boiler with a Wayne HSG200 gas conversion burner in it. It has been giving me nuisance lockouts for a few months now, but it always started when I reset it with the main switch. I talked to Wayne, they said most common thing was a dirty flame rod, I replaced it with a new one. It ran for 2 to 3 days without problem, then it started to lockout again. It has gotten to the point where it doesn't start anymore. I can hear spark after it blows for a bit. I think it is the ignition control not sending 24V to the gas valve. I measure across the gas valve and and only see at most 12V. I measured at the control MV1 to MV2 while it was firing and only see 10V there. I see 27V at the 24V terminal on the controller (Fenwal 05-31). All I could find today (Saturday) was the Honeywell universal and I am looking for the one it calls for in the manual, Honeywell S89F., or the updated Fenwal 35-65. I am wondering if it sounds like my diagnosis is correct and would like to know if you would use one of the two valves I am listing or something else. Wayne also has their own control now it looks like. Pictures at the following link: photos.app.goo.gl/toTCLbrb6YgFGhdj7

[@grayfurnaceman]

Your unit is direct fire spark ignition. In a short, direct spark fire sucks. I am not sure Honeywell still stocks this unit. In this case, I would replace the entire burner. You could convert it to a hot surface ignitor, but it is complicated. GFM

[@pelletman65]

@@grayfurnaceman Thanks for your response! I can still get the Honeywell control. Is there a particular conversion burner you would recommend? I see Wayne, Beckett and Carlin out there. Do you have any preference? I appreciate the input and help

[@grayfurnaceman]

@@pelletman65 I don't have enough experience with the different brands to make a recommendation. GFM

[@pelletman65]

@@grayfurnaceman Thank you for your personal help and in general with the videos you provide!

[@pelletman65]

Just wanted to update in case anyone else has this problem. I tried to get the Wayne control but it was at least a week out, and with no heat that wasn't an option. I purchased the Honeywell S89F1098 on Amazon, wired it up, and the boiler now works fine.

[@UltraHydrophobiccoat]

Merry Christmas! I have a Honeywell S8610U spark ignitor control which is similar to the one 1:08. It burns the 24v transformer. I replaced the transformer, and I got 8 flash error code on this control, which means the low voltage input has problem. I checked the low voltage wire (to TH-W) and found it is grounded. When I pull off the burner ground wire (GND), the low voltage wire does not ground any more. Does this mean the ignitor control is bad? Thank you.

[@grayfurnaceman]

It probably means you have a short in the wiring to chassis of the unit. GFM

[@terryboquet420]

Hi GFM! I purchased a conversion kit for my Vermont Castings LHEC30 NG insert to replace bad honeywell valve. This kit inclucdes a Skytech RCT-MLT-IV remote receiver, not part of orig configuration. There are no instructions on Skytech install guide (no vids on KZbin) on how to connect the fan harness for the insert (phone call didn't resolve either). Fan plugs into receiver, but there are two leads that plugged into the back of old honeywell valve (two terminals marked "fan", not TH or TH/TP). Assume these leads control lo/med/hi fan speed. Receiver has two terminals marked "valve" and two marked "flame control". Can you how tell me how to connect these two leads to the receiver or valve?

[@travisvaneldik1475]

How do you test if your issue is the Module, the ignitor itself, or possibly the circuit board below? I have an spark Ignitor that at first would light flame up but then kick off after 3 seconds. Now it won't even ignite a spark. The fan runs but no flames or sparks. I have an ICP NTG3050FBA3 Furnace. Thanks in advance.

[@donwallace7354]

I've got the S8610U, and it will open the pilot gas valve and sense the pilot (and start main burner) if I ignite it manually, but I can't figure out what ignitor I need so that I don't have to ignite manually every time.

[@grayfurnaceman]

Does the spark come on? GFM

[@donwallace7354]

@@grayfurnaceman No spark anymore, which is why I light it manually. Once upon a time, it would generate a spark, and I would need to periodically clean the ignitor, but no spark for some time. Could it be as simple as replacing the ignitor? It appears to be a single piece, ignitor and flame sensor.

[@grayfurnaceman]

@@donwallace7354 Remove the high tension wire from the pilot and place it within 1/8" of the chassis, then start the system. If it sparks, the problem is in the pilot assembly. If not, the control has failed. GFM

[@analysispros]

Thanks for your video - very good! I have an old Lennox G12 Furnace with a G60QHL interment ignition - I get a spark from the controller but its only for 35 seconds. I think you mentioned it should go for 90 or so. After 35 Seconds I hear a click and I think the controller shuts the pilot gas. I do smell gas so I know there is flow to the pilot during that time. My first question is - do you think the G60 controller went bad (its the original I think from 1980). My second question is - can that controller be replaces with a more modern one - if so which one to get? Thanks in Advance!

[@grayfurnaceman]

If the spark is working at the pilot assembly, I would first clean the pilot assembly. If you have gas to the pilot and spark, it should light. GFM

[@Noobmaster-ts2df]

how about if the spark plug doesnt lite? whats wrong with it? i tried to measure the voltage in spark plug wire but im getting no voltage so i thought its the spark ignition control ,im just wondering if i should have used milivolts instead. i was using that blue one.

[@ghislaincote8422]

Well I have a propane heating system Igniter Control Board Ignition Module sp745 no longer clicks click click to turn on the driver to operate the burner is what you need to reinitiate the thermostat. if so how do we do it to reset it

[@veronicapheasant3233]

hi there gfm, love your videos Ty so much. You helped me a few years ago when we replaced a Robertshaw con mod on a Lennox. PN# 18G 9101 model# sp735L. well, sounds like we need another module, it's doing the same thing. when it calls for heat there's no spark just a click & 1/2 kinda thing and we are blue in the face checking /cleaning everything else. My question is, should we replace the module again with another used one or just buy the replacement kit and would that be part# 30w33? the last used Robertshaw I bought was only$75 the used one I found now is $150. a new one with kit is about $110. I just didn't want to do the re wiring if I didn't have to. (and why does it keep going bad?) it's so nice to just do a swap out. Only thing we've done to it since the original swap out is put in a new inducer motor and it ran and sounded great. Thank you again. brrrr in Michigan.

[@Guyhakverdi]

Dear GFM today I was in troubleshooting for a goodman 3 ton roof top. It has spark igniter also has integrated control. The unit doesnt light up and has fault code but I couldt see that code on their list it's just constantly blinking(red) so I suspected that circuit board is bad because gas valve doesnt get 24 V but I can hear spark. I also check the gas valve it looks good. What do you think??

[@gibson7654]

Hello Mr. Greyfurnaceman. I have a S8600M ignition module and I suspect it is not producing a spark. Replaced the igniter but the issue is still there. I have to light the furnace with a lighter for it to work. How can I test if this module operates properly? I was able to check that it receives 26V.

[@grayfurnaceman]

Pull the high tension wire from the module. Use an insulated screwdriver to connect from the high tension terminal to 1/8" from the unit chassis. When calling for heat, you should get a strong spark across the gap. GFM

[@gibson7654]

@@grayfurnaceman you meant the ignitor wire that goes into the spark blade, correct?

[@grayfurnaceman]

@@gibson7654 Yes GFM

[@gibson7654]

@@grayfurnaceman I get no spark or one before the gas valve opens.

[@grayfurnaceman]

@@gibson7654 Sounds like a failed control. GFM

[@jieturner990]

My G60PAG-1 module doesn't spark anymore. The furnace repair company diagnosed that the module is bad. Shall I replace it with another G60PAG-1 or S8610U ? We actually tried with a new S8610U module and did wiring following the manual, but it didn't work. At first it sparked but wouldn't turn on the gas valve. Then it wouldn't even spark. We wonder that we got a bad unit.

[@grayfurnaceman]

I would stick with the G60. GFM

[@jieturner990]

Thanks! Do you know where I can buy G60? Does it have to be G60PAG-1 or any G60? So far I could only find one seller of G60PAG-1 on e-bay and it says “New without original packaging.”. I don't know how reliable it is.

[@grayfurnaceman]

Most of the G60s with the same wiring terminals should work. I have no sources for parts. GFM

[@jieturner990]

Thank you very much!

[@JeffZiegler76]

I have a Honeywell S8910U ignition to a VR8345M4302 24ac gas valve, gas valve is only getting 12v with loaded, S8910U is putting out 24v no load, is this normal?

[@grayfurnaceman]

Almost certainly, the the control has failed and you are reading a ghost voltage. GFM

[@mark.r8900]

hi, on the BLUE control box. does the control box sends out 24vac on the THS, then goes through a limit switch and coming BACK on the R1? is that the FLOW sequence? thank you.

[@grayfurnaceman]

The control is powered up by THS. R1 takes the the same side of line as THS thru the limits to start the sequence. Hope this helps. GFM

[@gpsperez5193]

Hello are you still there ? is me again with the same problem no spark on my older model ruud rheem main module or board 780-715 u there's 24 volts on that and i can hear the gas valve clicking and i can smell the gas of the furnace, blower motor in auto dosen't work but works on on position only, no heat al all . is there a blower motor relay or fuse on this type of furnace? thanks

[@grayfurnaceman]

I assume the unit lites the pilot then the main gas comes on, and there is 24 volts to the valve pilot solenoid. Do you have gas supply? This furnace probably still has a heat operated fan switch. If there is power coming out of the fan switch, you have a motor or relay problem. GFM

[@gpsperez5193]

Thank you for answering back! But i supposed to see and hear spark or the noise when spark's just like spark plug?because that is not happening, and i do have gas valve open, have 24v from gas valve to the relay or black square little box, all started with a lot of condensation thanks

[@gpsperez5193]

No spark no pilot

[@snoopdogie187]

Is there any brand of these controls that are more reliable than others? I just replaced an UT electronics controls with an older Honeywell that was sitting around, which was also used for a much longer time. These are for greenhouse heaters, so they need to take some vibration and moisture. I looked at the board of the UTE and you can see the case wore away the trace on the bottom edge. Its an easy fix, but without opening up the Honeywell, I don't know which is better suited for this job.

[@grayfurnaceman]

I have an affinity for the Honeywell S86 control. They seem to work and last the best. GFM

[@snoopdogie187]

@@grayfurnaceman Thank you

[@jessicalesage2305]

Recently found your page here. You've been quite helpful, Thanks for taking the time to make the videos. I have a follow up question with regards to ignition controllers. I currently have a Johnson Controls G600-LX1. The furnace does work, however the controller has an audible buzz most of the time. I've looked into replacements and have found a Honeywell Pilot Ignition Control Board. It is a complete different device, similar to the different controllers in this video. Is the Honeywell Board just a plug and play replacement? I notice the G600 is mounted on the gas valve, but the Honeywell must be mounted elsewhere?

[@ghislaincote8422]

hello I bought a new 780/745 module I installed it and I started the heating and the light just flash

[@josephflees4973]

I have a Johnson control G67Ag-3 igniter on a Dayton overhead heater and don't know how to put the wires back on its been a while and I thought id remember Help please

[@polishtheturdmickelson5473]

LOL

[@icidro1]

What if you use an s86 continuous but you’re not getting a spark? Could it be a bad s86?

[@grayfurnaceman]

Unless you have a short in the high voltage circuit, or there is no power to the control, no spark means bad control. Power in, no power out=bad control. GFM

[@Guyhakverdi]

How is it possible the polarity will be reversed by itself? According to customer Roof top was working fine for years... I changed the board didnt work, I checked the ground on the transformer very tight... I did even changed the spark igniter.. I checked the centrifugal end switch looks fine.. What causes the board not to send 24 V to Gas valve. I just couldnt figure that out there is ghost voltage coming for GV when it tries for igntion but 24 V.

[@ilovenythismuchilovenewyor5801]

hey a tech here but been out the loop due to work injury. now gotta s8610u honey well. it blinks 8 times says low voltage you can see the normal sequence w ind. fan press switch spark and gas valve etc it will light up but then cycle on and off and go into lock out for 5 mins then do same maybe after 2 lock outs it finally turns on and runs like normal w the green and orange light saying normal operation. but once it shuts off it does same thing all over. its a Utica boiler... any ideas of what else i can try. I tested for voltage pretty much every where

[@grayfurnaceman]

I assume there was no drop in voltage when the gas valve energizes. Have you cleaned the flame rod? I know this does not follow the error code, but I would try that first. GFM

[@ilovenythismuchilovenewyor5801]

@@grayfurnaceman the main bracket that is supposed to hold up spark and pilot assembly is missing and the actual pilot tube going into the pilot head is loose so I have to try to find the original assembly mount for it this is an old unit and tech support is closed. and no I didn't test to see if there was a volt drop once the gas valve is on

[@ilovenythismuchilovenewyor5801]

@@grayfurnaceman i did use sand paper to clean the rod. but still same scenario didn't want to sand it too hard but it lookt better then before

[@rocafirme1000]

Hello mr gfm. In a rooftop unit the trouble shooting say: you can see the light/spark working many times. But you can't see the flame on burners. There's gas on the pipe but after the main gas valve doesn't go gas through the burners? Do you think the problem is on the main gas valve?

[@grayfurnaceman]

rocafirme1000 I am assuming there is a pilot light that is being lit, but main gas is not coming on. I would look for power output to the gas valve after the pilot lights. Power available, gas valve has failed. No power, ignition control problem. Hope this helps. GFM

[@Noobmaster-ts2df]

depends, it might be the sensor is dirty and needs cleaning or the valve, if the sensor is alright and if there is voltage coming through the valve and it isnt doing anything, it might be the valve itself.

[@EurekaRecycler]

mine was sparking and held the pilot but would not fire up, so I cleaned the sensor and reinstalled it, Now nothing happens, no spark. I has 24 volt output from the new transformer, all the roll outs are good and the door switch was engaged. Now what? Thank you

[@grayfurnaceman]

This is almost certainly a wiring problem. Check all connections. GFM

[@EurekaRecycler]

@@grayfurnaceman I cleaned everything and put an extra ground wire from the sensor to the spark module and lite the pilot manually. Than i jumped 24v from the spark module to the valve and it fired up but will only fire up if i jump the valve. after 20 mins or so I watched it cycle and seemed fine but again the main valve wouldnt open ( so I jumped it again and than again fired etc etc. ) Do you think it is the spark module? Thank you

[@grayfurnaceman]

@@EurekaRecycler It appears you have eliminated everything except the module. GFM

[@3sotericCompassionist1976]

I've got a honeywell s87j.....my problem is when I turn on the thermostat the fan kicks on but no spark, I'm just wondering if the direct spark unit is bad or could it be something else?

[@grayfurnaceman]

You will need to find out if there is power to the ignition control. GFM

[@frankbruno9083]

thanks for your video. I have a Peerless DE-06-SPRK-WPC Gas furnace with a Honeywell S86 (1997 model never had an issue till now) and for the last few weeks experiencing issues with the boiler starting. Once I power down the entire system it will restart. I'm thinking of replacing the S86. What makes this a bit odd is it will go for days without an issue . Any advice? Thanks!!!

[@grayfurnaceman]

From what you say, the S86 has probably failed. GFM

[@scruff3988]

Hello GFM, we have a Fenwal 05-162426-003 igniter in our furnace. For years now the furnace makes a rather high pitched whistling sound when it runs. The sound is associated with the burners igniting NOT the fan kicking in. As soon as the burners go off, the sound disappears but the fan continues to run for a few minutes. I'm pretty sure that the sound is coming from the Fenwal igniter module. We have the house up for sale now and we're concerned that the sound may scare some people off. We're in Michigan so the furnace runs frequently this time of year. Do you have any suggestions on how to eliminate the sound? Thanks much. Good, informative videos by the way.

[@polishtheturdmickelson5473]

Install a new furnace.

[@danamennerich3282]

i have a s86 controller and system is short cycling. if i tap on controller box the system will stay running but after 10 to 15 mins it starts short cycling again. I cleaned the probe and disconnected the flue sensor and replaced the flame roll out sensor. i tried replacing the s86 box with the new one which looked almost the same and the system did nothing, no flame at all so i returned it thinking it was bad. before i replaced the flame rollout sensor i moved it away a few inches and furnace ran fine so i thought it was the sensor but system is still short cycling again. should i replace s86 and gas supply valve? system is 25 yrs old and hasn't been used much in the last 10 yrs because i use a wood boiler but need a back up. thanks for your help

[@grayfurnaceman]

Something does not make sense here. Rollout sensors are manual reset. If the sensor caused the shutdown, it would not restart on its own. Are you sure the replacement was good? Was it new? GFM

[@benjamincharley1320]

But why would that spark ignitor stay on continuously, if furnace calling for heat or not...

[@grayfurnaceman]

They do not. GFM

[@benjamincharley1320]

Well this was replaced and now it's sparking continously.. not stopping at all. So does that mean module might be defective?

[@grayfurnaceman]

@@benjamincharley1320 It appears to be. GFM

[@benjamincharley1320]

@@grayfurnaceman thanks.. have a great year

[@micah_paul_creative]

Hello, I have a Honeywell s8610u unit. When I turn on the furnace nothing happens, no gas, electric, or any sounds. Could the unit or the transformer be bad? Thank you for any help.

[@grayfurnaceman]

There could be almost anything wrong. Is the power switch on? Breaker on? If the unit has an operating fan switch does the fan come on when the fan is turned to the on position? GFM

[@micah_paul_creative]

@@grayfurnaceman Breaker is good, tested the thermostat, input voltage at transformer is 120, output is around 27. I dont get any voltage readings on the wires going into the honeywell s8610u

[@grayfurnaceman]

@@micah_paul_creative I would be looking at safety controls. Limit switch, pressure switch. GFM

[@foxriverat]

Thx for your informative videos. Just replaced B1401003S ignitor. It would spark, light pilot and then keep sparking with pilot lit and furnace would not fire up.Did no fix problem. Going to replace module next. It is united technologies B13707-23a which I can only find used. Can the united technologies B1370724 or any other one be used in its place. Thanks

[@grayfurnaceman]

I don't know about the UT unit, but you can look up crossover charts at either Honeywell or White Rodgers. GFM

[@foxriverat]

@@grayfurnaceman thank you

[@gpsperez5193]

Hello there question my furnace doesn't have a spark at all there gas can lit manually but it shuts down in about 5 10 seconds what can possibly be thanks ✌🏻

[@grayfurnaceman]

Are you sure your furnace uses a spark ignitor or does it use a hot surface ignitor? GFM

[@gpsperez5193]

Is an old ruud furnace ignitor looks like spark plug is exactly what you have on this video thanks

[@grayfurnaceman]

@@gpsperez5193 Could you send a pic to [e-mail] GFM

[@gpsperez5193]

@@grayfurnaceman spark ignitor

[@ericm5393]

I replaced my S8610U , after that no flame or anything , I pulled the damper jumper out and Whoosh ! flame sensing then burners came on . I plugged the damper jumper back in and everything shut off again . So I pulled the jumper once again and left it out . Question, that wont hurt anything will it ?

[@grayfurnaceman]

The damper has probably failed. You will need to jam the damper open. It will be unsafe if not jammed open. GFM

[@ericm5393]

@@grayfurnaceman thats just it , theres no damper on it

[@grayfurnaceman]

@@ericm5393 In that case, I would not use the control. GFM

[@ericm5393]

@@grayfurnaceman Thx Gary

[@fredyhernandez5202]

Hello GFM... I have a question for you. Im troubleshooting a goodman furnace. With a spark igniter module. I call for heat and the induced draft motor comes on.. and a second later the blower motor comes on. I hear and see no spark at all and nothing happens. could you possibly give me a sequence of operation. Is the circuit board suppose to sense a spark before it allows gas to flow. I want to say that its the igniter module.. simply because i looked behind the board and theres a little burned dots on the 24v side. I applied 24v directly to see if I could at least hear a spark and I didnt. Thank you for your time and knowledge.

[@polishtheturdmickelson5473]

No it is the thermostat. Did you replace that yet?

[@Tool-Trek-Tech]

the wire that needs replaced is Dixie wire brand 18 awg with a heat rating of 150 degrees celcius.... are you sure a regular primary wire will be okay?

[@grayfurnaceman]

+Matt b You can check your wire and see if it has the 150 rating I would use 150 wire. GFM

[@tonywells4351]

Hey GFM, I'm looking to remote state a fire pit from a switch. Could I use any of these and build some thing that can spark and ignite a pilot, then the Thermocouple open the gas valve and light the fire pit.

[@grayfurnaceman]

Yes. You would need an S-86 honeywell or equivalent. GFM

[@dwaynemuszik7771]

Hello GFM I have a 26 year old gas furnace with a spark ignition/sense in 1 line. The problem I am having is that the pilot lights, the main burners light, but it goes out after about 30 seconds to 1 minute and then immediately begins ignition sequence again and does this nonstop. I'm not sure what to check. The pressure switch has voltage in and out and it's constant so I don't believe that's the problem. I did notice the spark wire had a crack in the rubber around the part that connects near the pilot and was a little loose so i pushed it on really tight and it was fine for 2 weeks. But I just got a call and it's acting up again. Any thoughts?

[@grayfurnaceman]

Dwayne Muszik The rod the spark wire goes to is also the flame sense rod. You might try cleaning the rod with sandpaper. Hope this helps. GFM

[@hernilsoriano4873]

A have a question I'm working with the fenwall 35 series.sometimes the gas valve open at delay time after the ignitor lit up then it opens.eventually the the ignition module will lock out,I've replace the flame sensor and ignitor,gas pressure at the manifold are ok,air proofing switch close but what causes the delay?any idea,I've change the module still does the same thanks

[@grayfurnaceman]

Hernil Soriano If you can make a video of the problem it would help me to understand what is happening. GFM

[@hernilsoriano4873]

Ok I will when they call be again..it's from a rack oven thanks

[@shaunsteward9092]

Hi Mr. "grayfurnaceman", I find your videos very informative. I am not a HVAC Tech, but I am pretty handy, however I am having issues troubleshooting my Carrier Weathermaker SX, model #58SXA060-GG Series 100. About 60% of the time when my thermostat calls for heat I don't get a spark to my pilot. When it does NOT light, my inducer motor will start and run, I hear a click that comes from my ignitor/lockout control, then I loose my 24v to my pressure switch and it will eventually shut everything off. I have checked both of my intake and exhaust pipes for debris, they are clean. I have checked all of the drain tubing and cleaned out the drain trap, it is clean. While the inducer motor is running, I can ohm the pressure switch to make sure it is closing and it does. It stays closed, even after I hear the click from the ILO, it is still closed. So far what I know, is that when my thermostat calls for heat, I have 24v coming from "W" to my ILO going into pin 5, then when my pilot does NOT light i hear a click and loose 24v at pin 1 of my ILO. I am guessing I am hearing my 5-minute lockout timer open when that is happening. I believe that my ILO is failing, but because I am not a HVAC tech, I would love a second opinion on this matter, and have someone tell me if there is something down stream, maybe a faulty ground or connection some place else that could be causing my ILO to open and not produce a spark. I also know that if I jump 24v to the c terminal of the pressure switch, my pilot will light, my main gas valve will open and my main burner will light, at that point I can take my jumper wire off of the "C" terminal of the pressure switch and the furnace will run until my desired temp. Any information on this would be much appreciated.

[@samsneeze]

my furnace blower does not come on, pg&e came out and couldn't figure it out. He said if he had to guess, he would replace the ignition control unit. Wouldn't the blower still come on even with a bad ignition control module? I don't see a circuit board, so i'm assuming it's a non integrated system. Just to check, I tried a new blower, still does not come on. Also new thermostat. No power at blower motor. Any help?

[@grayfurnaceman]

If the burner does not come on, and the furnace uses a heat operated fan switch, the fan will not come on. Hope this helps. GFM

[@samsneeze]

Is there a way to tell which type of switch it has. Thank you so much for your time, it is helpful.

[@grayfurnaceman]

sam sneeze Take a look at this video for some different types of heat operated switches. kzbin.info/www/bejne/bn7FnHathN-HatU GFM

[@c21secco]

possible "limit switch" The cycle problems. check "fan relays" older units Integrated boards have fan relays not so sure with limit switch. Since I have an older unit and mine does work to cool down by temperature. Maybe this limit switch could jam break and not letting power back to your fan for use with relay. Possible seen this talked in other videos. Check both quotations in search bar youtube.

[@samsneeze]

It was actually the power supply unit that was fried.

[@kimhensley2785]

Gary, I have a 1,000,000 btu boiler (car wash). The pilot lights the main burner lights then it immediately shuts down and starts again.. pilot-main burner-shut down. honeywell S86, the boiler is approx 15 years old. Any advise. Thanks

[@grayfurnaceman]

+MrNicks24 This is from Grayfurnaceman. The pilot assembly may be dirty or the flame rod needs to be cleaned. Depending on the pilot, there may be a separate flame sensing rod I would use sandpaper to clean any parts that are in the assembly. Hope this helps. GFM

[@kimhensley2785]

+MrNicks24 Yes i did. The furnace copper vanes needed cleaning. When the burners fired the flame had no where to go but back down and blow out the pilot. Cleaned all vanes. Perfect operation.

[@polishtheturdmickelson5473]

Call a HVAC professional to diagnose and repair it.

[@northstarcycle496]

awesome videos! many thanks for all the info...I have an older magic chef furnace that usually works great in my shop, I regularly clean and maintain the unit. This year however I fired her up and my fan center relay burned up...This was the original Honeywell unit, I purchased a new white Rodgers 90-113 replacement and I believed I wired it in correctly (not 100% sure though)...when I tried to fire it up first off the blower came on right away, I then noticed my led on the ign mod (S8610U) was flashing 6 and 7....purchased a new ign mod, re-wired the relay I think the right way this time. Held the two T-Stat wires together and had perfect ignition, main burners came on, etc...BUT as soon as the blower tried to go on the whole furnace shut down...now the new ign mod is flashing 6 and 7 too.....any ideas sir?

[@polishtheturdmickelson5473]

Call a pro. Or keep throwing parts at it.

[@normabarnett6958]

I have a gas furnace its a train twin its an older model it will ignite but not stay light to kick the furnace on had this problem before changed the limit switch 2 months ago now furnace is acting up again and wont run past first igniting

[@grayfurnaceman]

+Norma Barnett Have you cleaned the flame rod? GFM

[@eddiec7765]

Can you clean a spark ignitor, As a trouble shooting technique?

[@grayfurnaceman]

Eddie C Sorry about the wait. Yes. Sandpaper or steel wool. Be sure no wool is left on the ignitor. Hope this helps. GFM

[@Tool-Trek-Tech]

what if my furnace works perfect for a while then will go to the retry mode.... it isnt sparking when in the retry mode and obviously because of that no flame... but then i can turn it off and back on unplug one of the leads on the pressure switch and it will kick on and cycle normally for around 8 hours and do the same... do you think its my pilot ignition control? had a company over twice and they have told me could be the exhaust fan motor not sucking hard enought or faulty pressure switch as well... but then second guy came out and said my ignition control.

[@grayfurnaceman]

+Matt b My thought here is if the unit starts its cycle when you remove the wire from the pressure switch, that the pressure switch is sticking closed. The does not cover all of the issues you tell of but its a start. Could you give me a make and model#? GFM

[@Tool-Trek-Tech]

+grayfurnaceman the model is g23q3/4-100-2 lennox

[@grayfurnaceman]

+Matt b I doubt it is the ignition control. This one sounds like a vacuum problem. GFM

[@Tool-Trek-Tech]

+grayfurnaceman found out some more info... when I turn off the switch to the furnace and turn it back on it tries to cycle the furnace flame on sometimes it does but most times it doesnt. after playing with it when it doesn't lite u noticed a yellow wire on the ignition module that when u push it towards the furnace will pop the flame on.. it labeled ground. I inspected the wire and the wire itself looks fine... could it just need a new wire or is it possible the connector on the module is going bad?

[@grayfurnaceman]

+Matt b You probably have a loose connection in the plug. GFM

[@ghislaincote8422]

me I have a modine with a module sp745 and when I start heating the impulses are not to start the furnace

[@grayfurnaceman]

You must be more clear on what happens when there is a call for heat. GFM

[@Rgregorio1805]

Excelente Video

[@grayfurnaceman]

Thanks for the support. GFM

[@cantire1234]

Really enjoy your videos. I do property management and it is good to know what is going on when the HVAC guys are doing service on the units. Curious, contractor just replaced one of these ignition modules because of no spark (and also the ignitor rod thing at the end of the cable). 2 weeks later, the new module isn't sparking. One thing I am curious about is the Ground to burner connection (like the one on the honeywell you showed in this video). Is it supposed to be connected to the "C" marking on the gas valve? Does the "C" stand for common? I see a "p" on the valve (guessing for Pilot) and a "M" (guessing for main valve) but wasn't sure what the C was for and why it connects to Ground Burner connection on the ignition module.

[@grayfurnaceman]

+cantire1234 C is common. You are correct on the P and the M. GFM

[@c21secco]

Very nice explanation of pilot gas lid sensing and intermetting control sending secondary valve side, power to main valve(MV) for gas release. On a two valve safety for furnace units. This helped me troubleshoot gas pilot not ((LID)) of my gas first valve powered at start up in (electronic intermetting control gas valve units)= furnace type units today. It means no gas in the pilot, do to no gas release of the gas valve, therefore no main gas release at no sense given for second side to release ((mv)) valve. so my gas valve could be ok. Got a do some cleaning and troubleshooting at gas valve. Question: Is there any adjustments for the pilot gas release after powered shown ((PV)) pilot valve. I got power in my first side valve ((pv)) shows power and partial bitty flame. Is there a screw that adjust flame or is set to flow at valve control only? Will check for clogging there at pilot flame. Great video in helping understanding flame sensing at pilot within spark cable. Thanks

[@grayfurnaceman]

I would guess you have a dirty pilot orifice. There is an adjustment on the gas valve. Look for "pilot adj" next to a screw. Its underneath that. GFM

[@c21secco]

grayfurnaceman will check. So far is been on and off turning on will follow post with result. Thanks

[@gigi9467]

i just replced my ignition module for a bewer black colored version of that honeywell s86 u have there. but i get not spark? any ideas?

[@grayfurnaceman]

Be sure you have volt power to the control. GFM

[@gigi9467]

does that mean to put my meter on the 24volst pin and ground turn it on and see if i get a reading?

[@polishtheturdmickelson5473]

Probably wired it wrong or their is a safety switch open. You sound in over your head Jesus. Stick to landscaping work.

[@cooldog60]

Are spark ignitors better than hot surface ignitors ?

[@grayfurnaceman]

+cooldog60 There are pros and cons to both. I like the direct spark ignition. Mostly because no hot surface ignitor to fail. GFM

[@roqueherrera2692]

Huge fan GARY!!!!!!

[@xiaojie895]

why not use the spark to light the burner directly but light the pilot first?

[@grayfurnaceman]

+XIAO JIE There are direct fire spark ignitors, but they are not commonly used. Lighting the pilot then the burner is common because it works well on retrofit applications. GFM

[@glasser2819]

why because it's tge pilot job to keep the main burning at all time. It provides a secondary flame that spreads readily to the main burner, no smart sending needed on hot burner. Pilot sensing is better than main ramps sensing.

[@geojor]

good info, thanks...

[@elran123]

Hello, I'm a fan of your channel, you're a great teacher. I have a question for you no one can give me an answer for. Ill use Honeywell S8610U Intermittent Pilot Gas Ignition Module as an example. Let's say for example I have my vent motor going, My pressure switch makes, and I hear my gas valve click, but I don't have a spark, How can I test to see if the problem is the module or the igniter? Thanks, Al

[@grayfurnaceman]

Pull the high tension wire off the module and short to ground to check for spark. If it sparks then and not at the pilot, there is a short between the wire and spark gap at the pilot. No spark at the control, bad control. Hope this helps. GFM

[@hernilsoriano4873]

Ok thank you

[@abdoaezah9804]

Thanks Nice video

[@grayfurnaceman]

Merry Christmas GFM

[@ianspooner2250]

24 volts coming out of transformer but no volts going to ignition control.

[@grayfurnaceman]

Look for an open switch. Thermostat, limit switch, etc. GFM

[@ChrisStevensonPointblank009]

My heater recently went off. I called the local heating and cooling service and when the guy got here I asked him up front if he was going to charge for looking. He said yeah they charge $97 right off the bat. I told him I didn't have that, and we just paid $120 for getting my furnace cleaned in January and maybe it was related to that. He asked to look at it. I took him down to the basement and he took the cover off and took out the S8610U sparkbox. He asked if my thermostat was on and I said no, so he told me to turn it up. I did, and when I went back down he had it started. He said my furnace wasn't controlled by normal pilot, but by the S8610U and I will need to buy a new one because he didn't know how long the one I have will last. In fact he siad it could go back out in 2 hours. He didn't charge me but said a new one could cost $400 alone unless I order one online. I am trying to figure out how to get my S86 to reignite my furnace until Friday.

[@polishtheturdmickelson5473]

LOL

[@kimhensley2785]

Gary, I have a 1,000,000 btu boiler (car wash). The pilot lights the main burner lights then it immediately shuts down and starts again.. pilot-main burner-shut down. honeywell S86, the boiler is approx 15 years old. Any advise. Thanks

[@grayfurnaceman]

+Kim Hensley When the main burner lights, does it pull the flame off the pilot burner? If so, this could be burner problems. As it is a car wash, the burners could be rusting. Hope this helps. GFM

[@kimhensley2785]

+grayfurnaceman Can't thank you enough for the reply! I had not thought of that, when the burners do ignite they seem to ignite with more "boom" than I recall. I was going to replace the the S8610 but will pull the top and side off the unit and inspect the burners tomorrow. Thanks again.

[@kimhensley2785]

+Kim Hensley Gary, I think you are correct, however where do i turn to now. I have replaced the S8610U, the pilot/spark assembly, and pulled the burner manifold out and worked all the burner tubes with a wire brush. Same result, the pilot lights perfectly and when the burners kick on they blow the pilot flame out. It's like there is too much gas pressure and the initial burner combustion is too robust.

[@grayfurnaceman]

+Kim Hensley Now you get to try all the shields and the like to protect the pilot. A small sheet metal shield, placed correctly, may stop it. Hope this helps. GFM