Gaskets to Seal Faraday Cage

[@tom_olofsson]

Thank you for making this clear for the non-scientists, like me.

[@disasterprepper]

You're welcome.

[@brianroberts5740]

That's exactly what I did. I covered corrugated cardboard with 2 layers of HD Aluminum foil. Lined the lid, sides and bottom. Then, covered the entire inside with 1/4" foam board.. Then I wrapped every device in aluminum foil. Then put each wrapped device into a Zip Lock baggie. Then wrapped it again in foil. Installed rubber feet ( glued) to the bottom. NOTHING gets through as far as our tests went. We used cell phones, AM/FM /WEATHER Solar Crank radios. My solar charge continues, inverters, battery charges, multi meters, and TV/DVD Players, and 2'way radios are all inside.

[@jasonblack6142]

Daaaamn,oook

[@stephensmith7262]

I bought some Faraday Fabric. My wife sews. I'm going to make a fabric cover with elastic edges so it fits over the top of the can like a hair net. Then, I'll put the lid over that. No way there will be any gaps. Just my thoughts. Thanks a million for your videos!!!

[@kenta3148]

I bought the gaskets recently. I have two smaller cans and two large. It took less than two strips to do the large can and one strip plus the extra left over from the large can to do the small cans. Still had about 20 inches after doing the four cans with a total of six strips. I added aluminum tape across where the caskets meet. I found it necessary to clean the lids with alcohol for all tapes to stick well. The caskets had a thin adhesive strip in the center, so I am hoping they stay put over time. Thank you for doing the testing to boost my confidence.

[@SteveSnowman]

Very good quantitative data. I worked for HP/Agilent Technologies (communications test & measurement division) for like 30 years and it all makes sense. Thanks.

[@askthebuilder]

In 1988 I built a detached garage for the owner of the tailoring company in Cincinnati, OH. At the time, the factory was on McMillan Street just 200 feet west of I-71. The wife of the tailor, Sandy Heiman, was the personal assistant to the billionaire founder of United Dairy Farmers, Mr. Carl Lindner.

[@RichNSmoothified]

with over 20 years of MIL461 EMI design/fabrication/testing of Aerospace & Defense systems at NASA's MSFC, DoD RSA, and NTS (aka Wyle Labs)... I'm hear to tell ya that the EMPDOCTOR is spot on !!!

[@AC_metro]

Thank you! Loved the info you gave on Canadian Prepper.

[@disasterprepper]

Glad it was helpful!

[@clarkeugene5727]

I am 99% sold on this method. It was very informative and straightforward for us lay folks. Then I notice your "Ammo Can Faraday Cage" ready to pop up next to view. I will wait to see the results on it because I do not require such a large cage as the trash can. Thanks.

[@disasterprepper]

For small Faraday cages, ammo cans do a really good job, especially with a conductive gasket. Even easier is to use "EMP" bags. I have a video or two on them as well.

[@clarkeugene5727]

Actually after viewing your ammo can video I am going to do both. One for small objects and the trash can for larger items. I am a bit concerned regarding the handle area on the trash can. I purchased a 31 gallon that appears to be the same size as yours. Mine has small punched out holes near the handle hinges. Would it be beneficial to apply some conductive tape thereabouts? Thanks.

[@hermittao]

Until I can purchase a gasket, would several sheet of foil placed over the opening before the lid is attached work? The foil should fill the gap to some extent. If there is an EMP or CME, you will never know how many lives you may have saved because of the instructions you gave us in your videos. THANK YOU, one of those lives may be mine.

[@disasterprepper]

Yes, that would probably work.

[@Genesis.1-1]

I wish this was my science class/teacher in high school. Love the room he is in. Thanks for the video, very informative and useful. Bill Nye take a seat, the teacher is in the house! Just subscribed. I had a question about the seams around the handles and where the bottom of the can meets the edges; how well are they sealed and should they also be sealed?

[@mobiusx8117]

You can use aluminum foil tape to better seal these seams. This is a form of "duct tape", typically used in HVAC applications.

[@JayBenedictBrown]

Thank you so much for being the lone truly scientific presenter of emp protection anywhere on YT or the web! (My degree Computer Engineering) One comment...not all (any?) of the aluminum tapes at big box stores have conductive adhesive. Cut a strip to span a pair of pennies and see if the multimeter reads 0 ohms. I struck out twice and finally ordered some copper tape on Amazon that provided conductive adhesive. I used that to seal the seems on the galvanized trash can (after I ground off the handle clips to get simple holes to cover. Also, the bottom seam was spot welded and leaked water, let alone EMI. I taped it too.) I’ll be ordered gaskets from you. Could you run your same tests to where you could show 100 dB of protection? It seems like a nuclear generated emp could produce much greater signal levels than your current configuration. Thanks again!

[@disasterprepper]

Hi Jay, I doubt I could show 100 dB of protection because of the dynamic range limitations of the equipment. Perhaps I could get 70-80 dB across frequency, but to be honest, it's unnecessary. Keep in mind that we're not trying to block the EMP, we're trying to survive it. 100 dB of shielding would reduce a 50 kV/m electric field down to 0.5 V/m. That's less than ambient. Most EMI tests can't even be run below about 5 V/m. 50 dB of protection reduces the field to about 158 V/m, which nearly any electronics would survive. That's why I recommend that minimum level for sensitive electronics, and also why I typically limit my tests to showing that level.

[@orangejuice4332]

@@disasterprepper Do the cans need to be grounded?

[@frankt7521]

I notice you trash can is not lined with cardboard as shown in another of your videos. Is lining the can necessary?

[@chrispicritters4710]

Your a great teacher, and explain so we’ll that we understand the data imparted. Thank you.

[@readyok-]

If you & Scottie from Scotties Tech aren't friends or collaborating on anything you should be. Your both amazing minds

[@gusgustoferson276]

Wouldn’t the adhesive prevent the connection/insulation of the lid to the can? It seems the aluminum side of the gasket would work but the adhesive side would not have a strong bond electrically speaking.

[@chrismcrae4652]

My concern as well. On many stick on products

[@johnjacobjingleheimerschmidt]

Like a behrens 4, 6 or 10 gallon ash can inside a 20 gallon inside a 30+ gallon can all with either cardboard and or towels for insulation. Redundancy is always better. Of course separate the batteries from the devices just incase. And remember to seal it for an airtight seal and put conductive tape at handle where its attached and along the seam of can. Both points can weaken or allow pulse to enter and violate the seal. The idea of the conducive tape is brilliant!! It's always a good idea to have a few of these triple cages housing electronics and batteries and seal em once and dont reopen - make a list of what's inside even take a few pics and put on outside so your not tempted to break the seal. In general alkaline batteries last 10 years but I'd replace every 8 to be safe. If your not sure what's inside - When in doubt make another. The cost to make one is less than $50 for the triple can makeshift faraday unit - buy American go with Behrans galvanized cans.

[@MisterDivineAdVenture]

55 gallon drums are probably a better choice and will seal liquid-tight. They come with a clamp ring overlapping seal. You can also pick these up for scrap prices though I can't verify the prices. Be careful of what was in them. Ideal would require just a rinse. Waterproofing - that kind of thing - rinse easily.

[@caroleemoreno8086]

Question. Is there any danger associated with storing these batteries and things that use lithium ion batteries all in this trash can? Any chance of them exploding due to lack of air circulation inside the can? Not plugged in of course. Still concerned about having these batteries and radios in a can in my basement.

[@ItsEverythingElse]

No, just don't store in a hot place (it's not good for the battery, though not dangerous).

[@PreparedOverlander]

Due to the recent unpleasantness occurring around the globe, I decided to make a faraday cage with a trashcan, similar to the one you have here. I want to use that gasket you are referring for the top. My idea is to go a few steps further to insolate the items inside by nesting things in a plastic garbage can inside the metal one. My plan is to buy a smaller plastic can, add spray foam around the smaller can to form a insulated barrier between the two cans and keep the smaller can from moving around. Place the lid on the plastic can, then place the lid on the metal can with the gasket around it. I was wondering if you think nesting the plastic can inside will help much for protection against EMP/solar flare? Love the videos.

[@nightrunner1456]

E-----M-----P-----20------24---------Aug.

[@nightrunner1456]

No elections in 20--24 for the 48 states, O-B, WHIFE BECOME the NEW LEADER. Millions don't survive the weeks that follow. NO MEDIA COVERAGE.

[@PreparedOverlander]

@Mr. M.O.G.O.M. The govt does have hardened shelters, they also have a standard for building structures that will survive one of these events. I would suggest maybe you watch a few more videos and learn some things before going around looking foolish.

[@libbylandscape3560]

It’s possible the smaller plastic can might conduct static, maybe you could find a smaller aluminum can.

[@PreparedOverlander]

@@libbylandscape3560 I have since found it hard to find cans that will nest inside each other and be used like I want to . The plastic cans are usually bigger, the ones that are smaller than aluminum will be too small for what I want to put in them. Probably going to build a box out of wood and layer with fabric.

[@JDGrayman]

Very cool video. I have a Behren's 6 gallon metal bucket (like yours, just smaller), with a 3.5 gallon painter's bucket with gamma seal lid inside. I use aluminized tape at the moment, but will definitely check these out. Thanks for this!

[@disasterprepper]

Glad I could help.

[@disasterprepper]

Sounds like you've got it covered.

[@mrr2041Rags]

I installed on my 25 KW Generator a BROWN out kit it monters voltage on line if voltage drops below 95 volt or go's over 240 volts it will drop out in come power & start Generator i believe this will work on EMP 🤔

[@LobanzTheGreat]

I was able to duplicate this experiment and get almost the same numbers, but I didn't have a shielded room, or a fancy signal generator or a portable spectrum analyzer. I did the experiment in reverse. I used a Baofeng radio as the transmitter. Put a rubber band around the PTT button and put the radio in the trash can. Then I used a SDR receiver (SDRplay) that can measure signal strength to +/- 1 db and measured the signal strength (open air vs in cage). I got about 18db shielding effectiveness on the unsealed can and on the sealed can the signal disappeared completely off my spectrum scope just like you saw. I calculated at least 70 db of shielding effectiveness. My noise floor was a bit higher (-100db) but the 8W Baofeng was probably putting out more power than your transmitter (bout -30db on scope). I did this experiment because I could still talk to a radio inside the cage. My RF seal was in the wrong place. Putting it on the sidewall of the lid is crucial. I had it in the corner. Putting it on the sidewall is what raised the shielding from 18db to 70db. BUT I could still talk to my Baofeng inside the properly sealed trash can. I'm guessing that the Baofeng receiver is more sensitive than the SDR receiver. However, I kinda think that a nuclear EMP will generate way more energy at 435 Mhz than my $33 8W Baofeng radio. So, I still don't trust the trash can faraday cage. Also, I can totally block the 8W Baofeng signal with only two layers of tin foil separated by a plastic bag. Seems that 2 layers of tin foil does a MUCH better job than the trash can faraday cage itself. And tin foil is also way better than mylar bags -- even the fancy EMP bags. I tested Faraday Defense mylar and Dri Shield 3400 mylar bags against the tin foil, and the tin foil won easily. So my sensitive items are in multiple layers of tin foil and mylar inside the sealed trash can. Interesting experiment. Glad I got about the the same numbers. Repeatability is a thing. QUESTION: Where does the 50db minimum shielding effectiveness threshold come from?

[@disasterprepper]

That's great. I always like to hear when people come up with clever methods of doing RF testing.

[@groniga]

I like the way you think. I have a question for you. Would grounding the trash can make much difference. Right now I am thinking of using Faraday cloth over a trash can....perhaps cheaper than using the RF seal around the lid. Any thoughts?

[@LobanzTheGreat]

@@groniga i dont think the grounding really matters because of how the farafay cages work. Dont really know if it would help or hurt. But the rf gaskets (available for less than half the price at digikey) just look like emp cloth wrapped around a foam core with some peel and stick conductive adhesive. I would think if you draped some emp cloth across an open trashcan and the put the lid on (sandwiching the cloth in between the can and the lid) that would be an excellent seal amd probably more durable than the gaskets - they tend to want to get scraped off. Maybe even a better seal than the RF gaskets. Great idea. I want to try it.

[@bojangles2492]

What type of Mylar did you use? There is two types, metal vapour deposition on plastic is one type. The other is aluminium foil laminated between sheets of plastic.

[@LobanzTheGreat]

@@bojangles2492 Several types, but cant confirm the construction. Pretty sure they were the tin foil between plastic type. The DriShield stuff has a slightly different feel to it tho.

[@Vanguard1232]

Really appreciate the professional evaluation of this technique. I have a question about grounding. Would it be prudent to ground the can? Would that help? One other thing would it help to wrap your products in bubble wrap to help insulate them from the can?

[@dudleyemer7011]

An EMP pulse has a much higher frequency span than the 100 MHz you tested at and extends well into the Ghz range. Can you repeat that test to see if its effective at Ghz frequencies.

[@disasterprepper]

I only show the test for 100 MHz as a sample frequency. EMP shielding tests are usually tested up to 1 GHz, which is what I do for all my shielding experiments. The gaskets do equally well at that frequency, and the next time I get in the lab, I'll capture that on video too. I could have done a video showing a number of frequencies, but I picked 100 MHz as a sample point for the video.

[@Lily-has-wings]

Holy cow! I just went to the gasket web site to purchase and........nope! Can't afford those prices. Starting at $70 and up to $260. Really?? I will make my own. Thank you very much.

[@donaldsmith3048]

This is very good information! Thank you! I also like the thing someone said about putting a small plastic can inside that. But if you put some tin foil around the electronic it may give just a little more shelding inside the plastic can. I have some radio equipment that I want to work after what ever happens is done.the tin foil would be a pain in the bottom to put on each time. But there are some things that are not used much that could be just put in there for use mostly after something happens. Kind of thinking as I type. Not all good ideas but something to think about.

[@practicalguy973]

I'm guessing the metal tape is still more effective at higher frequencies if it's taped perfectly with no gaps. Looking at metal trash cans they have a lot of warps and small dents so if you end up with the gasket not sealing perfectly for a few inches I guess most people would not know unless they test their set up with phone signal strength. If you can stop wifi at 2.4ghz then you know its going to be really effective at 500mhz or lower.

[@fqa1824]

Could you put copper tape inside the lid edge as well as wrap around the lip all the way around?

[@disasterprepper]

Sure, you could do that. It's sort of like creating a gasket.

[@victorhupman8744]

Great explanation I like it how you measured it open closed closed with a seal excellent

[@bcarss1970]

Hi Dr Bradley. Don't know if you will see this over a year later. The adhesive on the gasket does not compromise its effectiveness? Thanks

[@disasterprepper]

The adhesive doesn't actually take up the entire back of the gasket, so there remains metal-to-metal contact when you apply it to exposed metal. Also, it's worth noting that when I measured the effect of adhesives on larger metallic tape (copper and aluminum), I found that it in no way compromised the metal-to-metal connection. My assumption from the tests is that the adhesives are just too thin, and the metal presses through to make contact.

[@edwardwatt9420]

Have you considered fine mesh screen held in place with bungy cord ?

[@jslevenson101]

Some regular aluminum foil with lots of layers to put over the can with a couple inches aluminum foil and strips, thick, put the lid on over the can under the lid for a tight seal with aluminum foil. Possible if you make a tight enough seal under the lid, to help shielding at least.

[@Ryan-sl2oe]

Have you considered repeating the test with side handles and lid handle sealed? My can has holes where the handles are mounted.

[@reprosser]

It was not quite clear to me where the gasket is stuck to the lid. It is in the corner, but is the glue side on the vertical side of the lid, or the (mostly) horizontal underside surface when the lid is on the can. I think it would be on the horizontal side, since if it is on the vertical side, it would be dragging each time the lid is removed and replaced. If on the horizontal surface it would just meet the top lip and compress when installed?

[@disasterprepper]

The gasket's glue side is stuck to the inside sidewall of the lid (not the underside). It is so thin that it doesn't really drag against the lid. I've had mine for years, and it hasn't come loose.

[@snapdragon8610]

On the diasterprepared website the gasket measurements are 0.23″ (W) x 39.37″ (L) x 0.079″ (T). To me L means length and W means width. Are the gaskets actually 39.37"

[@nancyb4221]

Please give the brand name of power bank that appeared to have a separate smaller removable battery pack in one of your other videos. You said you loved, but I could not catch the name. Thank you.

[@brianroberts5740]

I've always read/heard/seen that trash can Faraday cages should not have a gasket. You're talking about 'conductive' gaskets though. I've never heard of them before this video. The term is almost a contradiction in itself. gasket-seal.....hmmm You are spot on I think Using the generator was better than an AM/FM radio test.

[@tonymcdaniel200]

I've tested it and grow tents with mylar lining and metal h vac duct work tape over zippers works great for generators batteries ect lots of room. If you have a grow tent just a heads up plus mylar blankets wrapped around most will protect generators battery back ups. Just a alternative if your money is low like mine at the moment

[@kakwabushcraft4809]

Good day Arthur, I am wondering if an insulated metal clad building work as a faraday cage? Also would it possibly protect my inverter and electrical solar system in my off grid cabin with the panels being mounted on the metal roof in the case of an EMP attack?

[@chrlsraines]

Would like to see same tests and application on a .50 caliber ammo can for the use of shielding small electronics. Small hand held devices I.e., cell phones, hand held radios, gps devices, etc.

[@brianh.conrad6118]

Does the inside of the galvanized metal can need to be lined with a non-conducting material like foam?

[@jcarpy75]

Thank you Dr. Bradley, very helpful will be ordering some for my cans. Also, I am finishing up book #12 of the Survivalist series books, really enjoying them. Will there be a #13?

[@disasterprepper]

Thanks. Book 12 finishes up the series, but I may come back and write other books later.

[@matthewsresilientways]

I really appreciate your efforts! I can't wrap my brain around the idea of "the lid acts as an antenna." Can you give me a quick explanation of this, or do you have a video describing how?

[@adriantyler1820]

Matthew Walz, I agree metal lid making good contact with a metal container would logically complete the shield. Unless the seal only makes limited circumference contact? Would a metal safe with debated door work better? Thank you for your excellent work

[@PrimeTime345]

Perhaps he means the lid itself is very resonant, like a satellite dish transmitter. By taping the edges or using gaskets, this resonance is dampened resulting in a reduction in decibels of electromagnetic energy.

[@andrewevanoff1192]

I'm far from being an expert but will try to answer: I believe he was referring to gaps between the lid and the trash can. The circumferences of the trash can lip and the lid are not perfect. It's very hard to achieve continuous contact between the two. A relatively long and thin gap may act as a slot antenna. This greatly reduces overall attenuation (reduction of RF energy). This is more pronounced in the higher frequency range, like he was experimenting with. It's believed that EMP (man made) energy would be mostly concentrated in VHF/UHF range.

[@disasterprepper]

I think you nailed it Andrew.

[@disasterprepper]

Andrew did a great job of explaining this below. Narrow gaps formed by the lid and the can act as a slot antenna. If that gap is appreciable in length to the signal wavelength, it can efficiently receive the energy. Not all cans are equal, and it's not possible to really tell by visually checking them to know which are "well sealed" and which have thin gaps. The gasket simply fills the gap with a conductive material. We add conductive gaskets all the time with electronic enclosures at NASA to reduce EMI, both coming into boxes and going out.

[@SWPG]

I appreciate your interview Doctor was a great show ! #swpg

[@andrewvautour1795]

Hi, thank you for this, very informative! I want to order the EMP Gasket for my 20 gallon garbage can. Your site has the 0.23 x 39.37 x 0.08 and states it fits a garbage can but does not state the size of the garbage can. Can you confirm it will fit a 20 gallon can? I know this is an older video so not expecting and answer from you Dr., but I am hoping someone here can answer this.

[@Garryokee100]

Great work, but why didnt you show the results using the lid sealed with just alluminium tape, especially if you only intend breaking the seal and opening after an EMP? Those gaskets look to be expensive?

[@brandonjarvis9821]

Received my gasket from you and it’s not sticking very well at all. What can I do if the adhesive isn’t enough? The gasket is very thin and i think that’s why the adhesive area is not enough

[@MI_Prepper]

I make what I call "Faraday Joints" for this. I roll up steel wool inside of aluminum foil like a big marijuana "joint," usually three is enough for the lid circumference, and put around the lid overlapping each othe and let the lid pinch them down. Works great, is dirt cheap, and easily reusable. How important is running a ground wire to the faraday cage?

[@sallysmoot7841]

QUESTION: on another channel they said the trash can had to be magnetic is that true?

[@brucewayne-cave]

Outstanding Gasket Doc, looks bullet-proof... I wish I had known about this before my rig was built. I suppose items would not need Dry-Shield bags inside with that level of reduction? So is my math close for my rig: 17dB x (2) untapped cans + 48dB Bag = 82dB of attenuation? I am using a medium can, nested inside a large (normal) size can. Then each electronic item is in a 3M Dry-Shield 2000 bag. This configuration allows for instant access to my goodies. I love your EMP Book !!!

[@thehazelnutspread]

Here is what I don't understand. Sure I can put all my stuff in a sealed off box or room but how will I be able to use my computer or solar panels if they are being 'protected'? I can't have them in sealed containers all the time leaving them open to damage while I'm using them. What am I missing? I also don't think that I'd be able to use the internet with my computer and phone if I'm inside a faraday room, will I?

[@Gundog55]

Would a plastic Rubbermaid bin provide any protection from an EMP?

[@DouggieDinosaur]

Wont the adhesive prevent the metal lid from making contact with the metal can - that's bad, right?

[@robertcain4491]

Cant i make a gasket out of the aluminum tape?

[@RedBearded-RyobiMan]

That’s what I was wondering. Why not use the tape as a gasket??? Be great for a follow up!!!

[@Cetok01]

Much appreciated in this confusing and sometimes contradictory field. I am concerned with reports of a potential coming solar micronova, which may create an intense induced current into the Earth itself, destroying electronic and (it is said) possibly most metal objects. Would this protection be effective against such induced heating? If not this, then what?

[@ItsEverythingElse]

@empdoctor The military gold standard for reduction is 80dB. Can that be achieved with a gasketed metal can plus EMP bags inside?

[@buddysWorld2972]

[QUESTION] So we are working on a can, I was wondering about custom seals. Currently I am using a window seal (Looks Like: .O_O. with two adhesive strips under the rings) that's been wrapped around the lip of the can so that the rings point up and out. We were going to drape a metal fabric around that and adhere it to the side of the can. I was going to use gorilla tape to keep the fabric on the can, but I've been told to use glue instead. I feel like using glue would get in the way and make the connection worse. My questions are this: -Will glue get in the way of a connection between the can and the fabric? -Will gorilla tape last?

[@ginoquest]

Would multipurpose foil tape (brand is Reflectix) work to seal seams of garbage can? I also bought 3M HVAC tape, both from Home Depot. They look metallic but don't know if they would work. What should I look for from their Home Depot website?

[@disasterprepper]

The metal HVAC tape works great, but it can really slice up the fingers getting it on and off (I say that as someone who repeatedly learns this lesson). I haven't tried multipurpose foil tape, so I can't say for sure how well it would work. The reason I like the gasket over tape is that it makes it easy to get in and out of the can without having to remove and reapply tape.

[@Michael-rg7mx]

Does a hole in the floor work? Does the pulse go through soil?

[@hermittao]

Would individual, unconnected solar panels withstand an EMP? Your help is greatly appreciated.

[@kimberleyfrazier1014]

so are you saying we don't have to use foil tape to seal all of the seams and cardboard inside also? Just use the can and seal the lid with the gasket?

[@rodneyhunt]

Unfortunate that the gasket I received was very thin and would not stick . Not sure if it had been sitting for a while but could not get it to stick long enough to even get it completely installed. Maybe if it was a little wider the sticky side would have more area to help with that. Has anyone else had this problem?

[@marv50208]

You might want to give this a try - kzbin.info/www/bejne/rZfEZ5psrtF0bNE

[@brandonjarvis9821]

I’m having the exact same issue. Were you able to figure out a way to get it to stick? The gasket wasn’t cheap so I’d hate to give up on it

[@TylerWMueller52]

Hi Doc, Should a cell phone ring if placed inside? I double nested this same 31 gallon steel bin, inside a 20 gallon steel bin (both lined with cardboard and lids secured with HVAC metal tape) and my phone still rang inside when I called it. I do live right next to a cell tower if that matters (0.5 miles away)

[@disasterprepper]

This level of protection is good for EMP protection, but not for the larger task of signal blocking. For that, you would want a Faraday bag, which we do have at disasterpreparer.com.

[@TylerWMueller52]

@@disasterprepper Thanks, I bought some bags, how sealed do they need to be? For example - do I need to have a perfect seal with scotch tape, or as long as it's folded over a bit is that enough?

[@danielguy1891]

Is testing a faraday cage with a cell phone or radio good enough?

[@Michael-rg7mx]

Can someone answer this. I have a metal shop. What do I need to do to use this building?

[@toml.8210]

Will copper or brass containers work as well, or does it need to be galvanized steel?

[@artcold1]

I luv your videos. QUESTION: You talk about sealing every nook and cranny .... however isn't an EMP like a pulse event which pretty much happens in like 1/10 of second?????!!!! I've seen very porous Faraday cages with like people inside of them as Tesla Coils are going off all around them. As long as the latice is rather consistent .... wouldn't electricity take the path of least resistance??? Cause I'm thinking isn't EMP just a super duper high voltage .... but in the end isn't it just electricity?! Or is it that when dealing with millions of volts .... electricity just acts differently??? 🤔🤔🤔 Cause even the Pentagon with their Tempest Shielding .... isn't that just a lattice and NOT a fulling enveloping metal shield with no holes in it?! And even if we had multiple EMP incidents .... wouldn't we just need to protect stuff 1/10 of a second at a time??!! And a friend of mine brought up that this cage must be grounded?! I didn't think they had to be grounded. To me it would seem like another avenue for EMP to saturate the metal envelope of the stuff you are trying to protect. 🤨 Thanks in advance. 😊😊

[@elio9207]

Hi sir. What material is best for EMP. Metall aluminium. Is it ok to use 1mm thickness?

[@tammyk6708]

How about those tiny holes that are visible by the handles?

[@jameswest3890]

If an EMP wave is coming from above or at a hi angle would the shape of the lid offer protection? Just wondering if you raised your pulse generator above the trash can to simulate a EMP coming from above.

[@disasterprepper]

Yes, I would think the shape of the lid might offer more protection than when directed from the side (the way I do during testing). That said, waves have a way of bouncing around, so it's hard to accurately predict how it would impinge on the can.

[@mcpocketsgarage2832]

Thanks, Doc!

[@jasonblack6142]

What do you think about me making one at home with granite or marble

[@Writerdust]

Have you taken a look at the handle in these for these galvanized cages? Where the handle intersects to lid- there are tiny holes. I would think that an EMP could go through those holes. Turn off the lights and take a flashlight and shine it to either side of the lid you’ll see the holes at each end of the handle.

[@disasterprepper]

Fortunately, small holes do not appreciably degrade shielding from an EMP. It's an interesting experiment to take a "perfect" Faraday cage, and then drill a 1/8" hole in the side. The shielding level remains unchanged (or nearly so). Rather, it is the long narrow seams that compromise the shielding because the seam can act as an efficient slot antenna.

[@kogyto2]

Thanks so much for this video and taking the time to educate others, I'm learning a lot from your channel. I do have a question about DIY faraday cages like this one made from a galvanized steel trash can. Does layering the conductive material inside of it help with protection? For example, lining the inside with a layer of brown paper bag, then aluminum foil, then cardboard (or some other variation of non conductive, conductive, non conductive layering). Would this additional layer add any extra protection? And if so, would it be enough to make it worth the effort? Thanks in advance!

[@disasterprepper]

The foil would add some extra protection, but you would need to be careful because normal foil can tear easily, losing the protection it was providing.

[@mikc3305]

How do you know when to put your electronics in? After an emp pulse happened?

[@sjord7]

That's the trick. Unfortunately, the items you want to protect would need to be in there all the time (or at the very least most of the time), since no one has any idea when something like this might happen. These would probably need to be spare items purchased just for this purpose.

[@cacobarruvias5247]

um... long strip of pool noodle sliced 1cm wide and wrapped in aluminum foil and glued into lid. would that work?

[@jamesmcgarity614]

So EMP won;t go trough rubber gasket?

[@carolrocky9803]

The tape AC duct is sealed with, will that help? Or can we use it?

[@disasterprepper]

Yes, aluminum duct tape works great (and it's cheap).

[@mobiusx8117]

@@disasterprepper Hi Doc - does the aluminum duct tape also need to have conductive adhesive?

[@richardsargent113]

Made myself a quiet generator box and wrapped it in aluminum. If I use a conductive gasket does the aluminum have to be bare or can I put the gasket on the paint?

[@disasterprepper]

I checked this and found that it wasn't necessary to have bare metal.

[@richardsargent113]

@@disasterprepper thank you!!

[@gregfuller9586]

Dr Bradley, thank you For you videos and books. A couple of questions. How would batteries fare? AGM? LifePO4? Also what about antennas and coax for communications gear? Should duplicate wire antennas and coax be shielded in a faraday cage? There is some thinking indicates shows solar panels would likely survive, can you verify this? I suspect charge controllers would be lost.

[@disasterprepper]

Batteries should be fine as long as they don't have charge control circuitry inside them. Antennas and cables would also be fine. So, no need to store either. Solar panels are not a sure thing. Some testing showed that one particular type of free-standing solar panels survived when it wasn't connected to anything, but was destroyed when it was connected. Definitely, the charge controller would be at risk.

[@iwishiknew7713]

This is all good and fine but wouldn't an EMP wave come without warning? So every time we use our electronics these items must be placed in this can and sealed with that special tape? What kind of warning can or will we have before this type of event happens?

[@disasterprepper]

The idea is that some critical items could be stored in a Faraday cage for safekeeping. Good examples might be a shortwave radio, spare medical devices, walkie-talkies, a multimeter, LED flashlight, etc.

[@GAdirtroad]

Dr Bradley, great video. I can’t help but notice the lever bar lock on the door behind you. Is it part of the door or can you buy separately and add to any door? Would like to have info on that locking mechanism.

[@disasterprepper]

The door is part of a shield room. They use knife-edge doors with heavy door door latches to seal them well from RF energy. I don't know if a normal door could be retrofitted with such a latch, but I suppose it's possible. I can tell you that when it's shut, it's definitely shut!

[@GAdirtroad]

@@disasterprepper Thanks for the reply.

[@66cobradave]

What about a couple of layers of aluminum foil?

[@webcompanion]

Great video, I loved seeing the data on the analyzer! One question, I'm concerned about my safe because it has an electronic lock instead of a traditional tumbler style. Is there a way to protect the circuitry of the safe's electronic combo lock? I was thinking about some sort of copper mesh or aluminum mini cage that could be magnetically placed over the lock. So then just remove that little cage when you need to type in the combination and access the safe. Any ideas on that?

[@cougartracks4442]

I have this same question also. Any idea's on the subject of electronic locks on gun safes? Does anyone have an answer????? Thanks for the video, it was great.

[@gunnersecuador7515]

@@cougartracks4442 Some electronic locks on safes also have a key. Just use the key.

[@pran7003]

I have a large empty deep freezer in my basement - would that work ?

[@Mrradio01-15]

Excellent, very straight forward and professional videos! One question will this trash bin withstand the high voltages of an EMP or will you need a good ground?

[@disasterprepper]

A ground isn't needed. It doesn't hurt, but if you calculate the temperature rise of something metal this size, it is very small.

[@Mrradio01-15]

disasterprepper ok thank you sir. I will be purchasing some of your books to help protect my ham radios against an emp. God bless!

[@mikeupham963]

If a 52 gallon barrel Is used does it have to be stripped of all paint?

[@disasterprepper]

No. Just make sure that the seal around the lid doesn't have a non-conductive gap.

[@RedFeatherGear]

Great explanation about homemade faraday cage. Does adding a gap (i.e. cardboard) improve the protectioN/shielding by keeping the device from contacting the the bare metal?

[@disasterprepper]

Most electronics already have plastic housings, which create that electrical isolation. But it's not a bad idea to put cardboard or some other insulator on the interior of the cage to prevent antennas or charging ports from touching the metal.

[@neilv6754]

Can your electronics be touching the inside of the steel can or does there need to be a non conductive lining between say your laptop or converter and the steel? Sorry if I sound ignorant. Love your videos. Just trying to better understand.

[@disasterprepper]

You don't want the metal of exposed electronics, such as an antenna or charging port, touching the inside of the can. Most people line their cans when there's a risk of it.

[@Oilsausage]

I ordered this gasket and placed it the same way shown and still could not get a Bluetooth speaker to stop playing inside or even a radios signal. I used aluminum tape on all the seams of the can also. When I used body weight on the lid is only when I could get the signal to stop.

[@disasterprepper]

The fact that when you put weight on it, the speaker stopped receiving means you're not getting a good tight RF seal. I suspect you may have put the gasket in a place where it didn't seal up the lid to can. Did you put it on the sidewall as shown on the website? If you'll send me a few photos ([e-mail]), I can probably help.

[@jaytee6513]

Should the cans have a non conductive liner like cardboard to protect items inside?

[@disasterprepper]

They certainly can, but most of the time, it's not necessary. The reason is that most electronics are already housed in plastic, so there's nothing metallic to touch the wall of the can. With that said, it's fine to line the can with cardboard or something similar.

[@jcarpy75]

Dr. Bradley, If I put a Walkie Talkie in the faraday cage, seal it correctly, should I be able to hear the page I send to the radio, or am I talking apples to oranges? Thank you.

[@disasterprepper]

You would likely hear the walkie talkie. They usually take around 120 dB of shielding to block. That's way more than most Faraday cages, also much more than is needed to survive an EMP.

[@jcarpy75]

@@disasterprepper Thank you for the quick response and info.

[@DeeBee2013]

Does the thickness of the can make a difference? We have a can that's maybe 20+ years old and in great condition and it looks much thicker then what they sell today

[@disasterprepper]

Not really, no. Any reasonable can would be plenty thick. It is the seams that compromise the shielding.

[@Snailmailtrucker]

Where can I get a bigger trash can that I can park my little 52 mpg VW Jetta TDI Diesel in ?How do I protect my car ?

[@indyharleyguy]

Great video as always!! Just bought 2 of the gaskets. Wish you lived closer to Indy area. Would love to see your workshop and meet you sometime. One question. My wife uses Splenda a lot and their bags are pretty big. It has aluminum on the inside. I've used a static bag first then wrapped my ham radios in 3 of the Splenda bags. I'm in IT but don't have any of your testing equipment, but since it stops my Bluetooth & Cell signal I'm assuming it's shielding some? Have you ever tested anything like that?

[@cathy4735]

Why can't you buy the flex seal paint and paint the inside of the can and the lid, it's a rubber barrier that would seal all the seams and any tiny holes that might be in the handle and also keep all the components from touching the metal. Just a thought 🤔

[@auntieauntie5633]

Do you line the can with a nonconductive material such as cardboard? I saw that somewhere.

[@disasterprepper]

You certainly can, but many times it's not necessary if the items are already housed in plastic.

[@willspanish]

This might be a dumb question but how well would dirt be for emp protection? Let’s say you put this in a box in the ground, would that add to the dB protection?

[@disasterprepper]

Hi Will, I looked at this some time back. It ends up that the amount of shielding depends greatly on the type of soil (e.g., dry sand, moist agricultural dirt, flat countryside, etc.). But even in the best case of moist soil, you have to bury items about 10 feet to get appreciable levels of shielding. In dry sand, it might go up to around 100 feet.

[@jasonakrapf]

I'm confused on the numbers. I need the Layman's for dummies version. My question is this Doc, is the pulse from a emp a short pulse or a long pulse? Meaning is the pulse over quickly or will it last hours? Thanks for making the videos.

[@disasterprepper]

An EMP is generally described by three distinct elements (E1, E2, and E3). E1 is very rapid with rise times along the order of 1 nano second. It might last hundreds of nanoseconds. That is very brief, and this radiated energy would potentially couple into even very small scale electronics. Next would come E2, which might last into the tens of milliseconds. That's quite a bit slower, and would primarily couple onto long conductors (e.g., transmission lines, buried pipes, etc.). The resultant currents on those conductors could cause damage to anything connected to them. Finally, there would be a much slower E3 pulse that might last seconds or even tens of seconds. Again, this would only affect very long conductors and things connected to them.

[@jasonakrapf]

disasterprepper thanks for the reply and the information