The Worst Thing You Can Do For Your AR

[@GBGuns]

Problem solved! A reduced-power buffer spring did the trick and I was able to then reduce gas a little with the gas block. We suspect the gas port is too small on this barrel as we KNOW the block is properly aligned. See the second video here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qpupg59sqLSSfbs See the article to learn about the myths perpetuated in the comments of this video: www.ballisticmag.com/impossible-ar-build-myths/

[@charlesbirchett7059]

Graham Baates that’s what I was gonna suggest. Glad you fixed it! (Pew pew)

[@ghostshadow9046]

My 300 blackout pistol was shortstroking, a tubbs flat wire spring cured it.

[@skepticalskeksis221]

So the rifle runs reliably now is what you’re saying?

[@joesashiify]

👍👍

[@dalecarroll5622]

A tip I was given before I built my first upper. Seal the gas block to the barrel with blue loctite. Helps with any minor machining imperfections. Glad you got it running! Nice build!

[@jimboslice6300]

I really thought this video was going to be about why it’s a bad idea to skeletonize your rifle

[@keithridlen7122]

"Skeletonizing" a battle rifle or hunting rifle is a terrible idea... That being said... This is a toy - a fancy build that shoots once in a blue moon to flex on your buddies at the range... I've got no beef with it.

[@callsignblaze4388]

@@keithridlen7122 yes to all of this comment. Some guns are for fun and some guns are for work.

[@dylanpaul1212]

Like wise… I think it’s ugly as hell.. would never do this to my rifles. But then again mine are set up for SHTF

[@GBGuns]

We've got plenty of those. This is neither my first, nor only rifle. As said, it was an experiment.

[@tripleseven8328]

Same

[@MrDannyd9]

I don’t know much about guns, but I am an engineer that knows materials and physics... By reducing the mass of the components, you are reducing the inertia (i.e. heavy trucks are hard to stop). The spring has a lb/in rating, and I suspect that your components don’t have enough momentum and inertia to overcome the spring. In theory, if you reduce the force (mass x acceleration) going backward, then you should reduce the force going forward (the spring).

[@MrJag1269]

I’m not an engineer and I’ve only built cheap guns but my first thought is that light weight buffer is the problem, I would try replacing with a normal weight buffer and give it a shot

[@TheBigThoughts]

@@MrJag1269 Yeah, as soon as the gas can escape, the light-weight buffer snaps back before it can cycle. It needs more mass for it to have the momentum to fully cycle. The lighter weight he goes, the worse the problem will be. Obviously, if it's too heavy, it won't cycle at all, but too light, and it'll be at the mercy of the spring. There's a sweet spot he'll need to find.

[@Spaceman-on9cg]

I agree with this post, after the gas block gets the bolt moving, thats it. The gun uses inertia to eject the round without breaking the gun. you might want to try some lighter springs. Also try moving the gas block closer to the breach/longer barrel. Can also try a heavy block to increase inertia(Turn your gas block back down if you any of this!). Maybe drill and ream the gas port on the barrel slightly. Keep trying different stuff, it'll work I know it! The reciprocating action of a firearm is like a see-saw; It can't work without a balance of forces. Your weapon is weighted too far in the return action to cycle the weapon. I'd start with lighter return springs! All in all, this is a sweet gun but you need a better pin setup. Those auto-escape detents are no good. (only thing I actually saw wrong with the gun.)

[@varloch9477]

I'm no engineer however I agree. You're spring seems to be far to strong for the gas you are working with

[@HappyFeetBoxing]

I’m not an engineer, therefore I cannot give my opinion on this matter.

[@billymaze4733]

Everything about this build triggers me. That thick af spring looks like a cars coil overs lmao.

[@chevyguyy454]

Lmfao 😂 the 370z of ar-15s

[@fungdark8270]

Why would you want to cycle anything but shit-hot reloads?

[@leokadyatrotter1043]

LOL, I was thinking that was heavier than what I have on my '66 Ford Bronco and my springs are 33% heavier than stock...

[@charlespayne1909]

Just took a ibuprofen after watching this Aint no way

[@GBGuns]

It was a simple fix and proved a lot of keyboard gunsmiths wrong.

[@michaelgamber135]

6:00 got all these light weight parts but that spring came off 1ton truck

[@Gokraut]

Buffer spring is ridiculous

[@jessedirazonian9742]

For real all I’m thinking watching this

[@55Magnetic]

Got a spare buffer retainer spring and detent laying around (7:01)? Might be in orbit with the takedown pin spring and detent 🤔

[@GBGuns]

The detention in this lowered is threaded and requires a tiny Allen key that I don't want to mess with, especially with the potential need to adjust the buffer.

[@walterdalton7484]

I built one for my daughter that was short stroking. I changed the buffer spring to a Damage Industry spring and four years later still no issues.

[@edbrenner6930]

Yeper that’s what I was thinking 😎

[@bobsunkees3392]

@@edbrenner6930 great idea before you spend your money check out your gas tube could be pinched ie restrictions, springs are cheap enough by the four pack multiple# . best wishes

[@Kycirion]

I love the Damage Industries Enhanced springs. Have them in all my ARs.

[@matyd7945]

@WalterDalton does the lighter spring increase felt recoil?

[@seangriffith9469]

With all that light weight stuff, my brain immediately went to the buffer spring. Lighter parts don't have the momentum to cycle on a mil-spec buffer spring. Glad you got it figured out!

[@MaelVampire99]

That spring made a HORRENDOUS noise then the charging handle was cycled. When I heard "carbine length buffer system", then saw how stiff the spring was, then a rifle length gas system, I knew you had too much non-matching stuff going on there. I thought a mid-length gas system might do it with an 18" barrel, but then the comments zeroed in on the spring. Glad it worked out that easily!

[@micahschaefer8211]

As soon as he said it cycled by hand but was stiff i knew it was the spring

[@Cpt_RB]

@@micahschaefer8211 my first thought was he probably needs a heavier buffer to carry the momentum all the way through to cycle

[@countrymorgan2942]

@@micahschaefer8211 could have been gas block alignment or undersized porting

[@rapidsqualor5367]

That's got to be it. My AR is very soft shooting, cycles like a 10/22 and weighs less than 3 lbs. I use a flat-wound spring from davidtubb.com made for carbine length .300BLK and a Taccom buffer. Whiskey bolt carrier w/ adjustable gas key, Ti pins and 9310 bolt. Dwell time might play a part also. I use a 16" mid length gas from Faxon.

[@nushinebob]

I had this happen to me on a build. Drove me crazy. Grabbed parts from every rifle and pistol I owned, to have "Light Weight" everything, for cycling issue. In the end, it was the buffer spring. I put in an old very used and relaxed spring.... runs like an old singer. Go figure

[@bassmangotdbluz3547]

Singer made 1911s during WWII.

[@TheJettLag]

The buffer was actually what i was going to say I’ve seen a few videos where changing the buffer solved the problem

[@GBGuns]

But it wasn't the buffer

[@nushinebob]

@@GBGuns yeah mine either. It was the spring. Once I added the weak spring I could put everything back that I changed out chasing down the problem. And it ran. Great.

[@rancfouce424]

I had same issue, it was my spring. Got a lesser weight rated spring and UT fixed the issue

[@ifreedoms6823]

The worst thing you can do to your AR is have it “skeletonized”

[@XtremeConditions]

Eh I think it's cool for a range toy, but I wouldn't trust it on a gun for home defense or SHTF or whatever.

[@erikwilson7622]

First thing I thought was how much "gunk" is going to end up in the upper. Might look cool, but, I prefer Bang every time I squeeze.

[@dalea1691]

Only in combat. Recreational shooting should not get sand in it. Unless you drop it

[@wendellsawyer4386]

@@dalea1691 You don't think dust and sand doesn't get blown around outside of combat?

[@dalea1691]

Not in here. East coast florida. But yeah, I didn't think out west

[@mikeperry2561]

I love the gun community. So many responses with constructive comments to help a fellow gun lover out of a bind. All of you are awesome!

[@EdwardOrnelas]

@@michaelb2906 pretty sure it’s sarcasm🤷‍♂️

[@Cpt_RB]

@@michaelb2906 everybody is an expert

[@GBGuns]

That was kind of the point of the video: to help show the kinds of advice that is out there. Some of it excellent, other misguided, and then there are those who just want to find a way to criticize and not provide any real help.

[@Cpt_RB]

@@GBGuns it’s a cool build even if I’d never do it, I’m glad you got it figured out man hoping to see more from ya

[@GBGuns]

There have been dozens of videos since this one. We've got nearly 1,000 in all.

[@ed0c]

90% sure its spring, (edit) yeah when i saw how far spring came out of tube and how thick the spring was i am now like 98% sure its spring.

[@thomasspicher6260]

Yeah? My buffer tube is all the way into my stock.. it doesn’t come out into the upper receiver like his

[@KBBF3]

That seemed normal to me, but Its worth trying. I use JP silent captured spring and I removed my buffer tube detent to make it easier to get out (mayb this dumb lower is trying to be cool and not have one at all). Mine runs fine tho it means whenever I take it down, spring will just spill out.

[@markvanful]

I agree with thomas there should be a stopper that doesn't allow the buffer to come out I bet 100% that's the issue the way it sits now it's getting jammed making it only allow to go half way

[@GBGuns]

@mark you should read the article

[@Everything2A]

@@GBGuns I think it’s either dwell time and/or the buffer spring. If you have a suppressor, try putting that on the rifle. A suppressor should extend the dwell time by letting less pressure escape so quickly. Another thing could be your gas port may not be lined up 100% correctly where it is being under gassed even if the port is fully open. Try this buffer spring www.righttobear.com/RTB-AR15-M4-REDUCED-POWER-Carbine-Buffer-Spring-p/877-rp-y.htm

[@tomfrazer2463]

I’ve found low mass bolt carries to short stroke. Increase spring tension/ heavier bolt carrier/ or even H2/3 buffer. Low mass allows the bolt to cycle to soon. Not building up enough pressure in your gas key to send a full cycle.. but just my 2 cents

[@vietnamtactical]

Yup causes too much bolt bounce, i guess in his defense its an 18in barrel w a rifle length gas tube so id expect you dont need much weight in the buffer but than again the dwell time is pretty short.

[@bradd8383]

Yes! that's definitely a experienced perspective! I'd agree

[@christianb4053]

Forget the gas bud. You have an adjustable block so you can find tune from there. Focus on the buffer 1st. I'd get an adjustable buffer and a couple of different springs .....just my opinion. Best of luck bro

[@christianb4053]

No extra friction...it's not enough pressure bc of such low mass. Go the other way with the buffer, go heavier!... again, just MY opinion.

[@ajnoblitt322]

That buffer spring is THICC

[@Ol_Durty_Badger]

As soon as he pulled it from the buffer tube i thought the same thing. Damn thing looks like a coilover spring!

[@NSteigs]

I was right in my guess that it was the spring! Hype to have my limited AR knowledge validated by the comments. Glad it's fixed!

[@MrLex87]

When I saw that spring, I was like holy shit is that a strut spring? 🤣🤣

[@paulscott1091]

i know looks like ar 10

[@brandoncano5027]

It came off my car’s coil overs 😅

[@stickymon1]

It was a coil over.

[@Travis-vm1vr]

The buffer tube isn't threaded in all the way. Needs to go a few more turns

[@philbrady702]

3:21 in and here is my question to you... You said you have a carbine buffer system but are running a rifle length gas tube, tells me that the buffer spring is way too stiff to cycle on it's own. Give that a try. Haven't looked in the other comments to see if it has been said, that is just my two cents... And where is your buffer keeper?

[@Deathbomb9]

A rifle buffer syste and a carbine buffer system have the same base resistance and same stroke length. If anything his buffer spring was possibly designed for a AR pistol back before they had pig tails and shorter barrels. As he said in the pinned comment it was the buffer spring, and possibly the gas port. But it's unlikely the gas port is the issue. With a short dwell and the lightweight everything moving, its possible the bolt was beginning to move before operating pressure was reached, causing gasses to escape and causing short stroking. It also looks like there's a lot of carbon on and around that gas block, could be a gas leak. Many people don't install the buffer detent for ease of field stripping, or they simply don't desire to have one. It's not your rifle.

[@sevensickstrings]

Beat me to it. Had the same problem with a buddy's mid length tube and a pistol buffer. Dropped my cap'd buffer in, and it ran like a thoroughbred.

[@mitchellmoon6083]

with the coin shortage we can no longer give our two cents worth.

[@DailyDriverGarage]

YOU WERE RIGHT

[@samuel_towle]

Boing constant too high. Reduce boing constant to increase plink ratio. :-)

[@kingfobbit399]

Ahh, you speak Grunt....

[@jester4348]

I’m here for the crayons

[@kingfobbit399]

Jester , don’t forget the Elmer’s glue to wash them down.

[@jester4348]

Negative ghost rider, a teaspoon of CLP a day keeps Docs silver BulletDrop away.

[@kingfobbit399]

Jester , never underestimate good PMCS.

[@nathannarciso6912]

Some barrels have gas port holes undersized. I had the short stroke issue and drilled the port out a little bigger. Works fine now.

[@redneck4453]

Definitely the issue.

[@jluvs2ride]

Check the port size.

[@anthonyrichard461]

Those are my exact thoughts, bravo!

[@CornpopOG]

I had to do that to my friends factory Anderson

[@CM-nq3so]

My thoughts as well

[@jamesozment1]

Also make sure your buffer spring is correct size. Looks like you have a rifle length spring in a carbine buffer tube.

[@bobbybridges424]

There should be a little pin that holds the buffer spring in the tube. It shouldnt always have tension on the bolt.

[@elwayb.602]

Exactly and this idiot turned the comments off no wonder it doesn’t work

[@GBGuns]

I don't think you turned the comments off, but you might be accurate on your self assessment.

[@phillipg9345]

Some people don't run with a pin capturing the buffer. The guy forgot his name on InRange doesn't fearing it will break off and jam something up

[@aahhronismyname8068]

The pin is just to hold the buffer and spring in the tube when you disassemble the rifle. Put the upper and lower together slowly (with the pivot pin already in) you'll notice the bcg will touch the buffer. It should always be pressed against each other, otherwise it'll impact the buffer everytime and damage it. Imagine putting your fist against the wall (touching it) then push. Vs having your fist 1 cm away then push/ punch then push. Which will hurt more? Cause more damage?

[@briancunningham5011]

yessir this fella here has the "right" answer. springs, buffers and bcg being of light weights are only an issue if/when the firearm is ovr gassed and the action becomes to violent and fast for reliable operation. if not for the missing spring detent I would suggest filing a form 1 or form 4 and attach an even cooler *break* then you could rest assured knowing that super sexy gucci break you graciously mailed me will forever be takin care of in good hands and going on some amazing adventures 😂

[@Redaniel64]

I had the same issue with my Triarc 13.9” barrel. I couldn’t cycle any .223. 5.56 I could but not .223. The gas port size was .065. It was too small to cycle and so I end up using Sprinco yellow spring (20% weaker) and it will cycle anything now. Give your buffer spring a try.

[@Master-ls2op]

yif you want to use 223 ammo you need a 223 gas block or tube.

[@miguelrojas5792]

Master80059 the gas block has nothing to do with it. Your port size is what matter

[@mobilesolutionsfl]

@@miguelrojas5792 Absolutely, agree 100%. The gas port should be around .075 (I said AROUND)

[@Scaliad]

That buffer spring looks pretty tightly wound...

[@austinhodges1994]

Try a lighter spring weight

[@Wolfstanus]

@Jussie Crowder Yes, they are spelled the same. Welcome to the English language, now get out.

[@troydavidson5661]

I agree Spring is too stiff and missing the buffer retainer

[@DOUBLEDEFENSE]

@@troydavidson5661 Yeah I was like why is there no retainer strange video

[@matthewhenderson5286]

No retainer and lighter spring?

[@caseybobbitt9272]

I think your having problems with the gas hole on the barrel. It may be out of alignment or maybe drilled out too small. I dealt with these same exact problems. Anytime your adjustable gas block is all the way open you should investigate why

[@rkoellner63]

I agree with most of the comments. I've built several PSA 18" rifle length uppers & ran into the same problem. My solution was drilling the gas port a couple of thousands over and using the adjustable gas block to regulate the gas.

[@jmiller7895]

try a swapping the lower and upper with a gun you know that runs see which one fails then go from there

[@katana258]

yep that's the way to 1/2 the possible ..

[@stevec5000]

Yep, too many unknowns! Start with working parts then swap in your questionable parts one at a time to check which ones work and which ones don't.

[@jakespeed9419]

How would that change the under gas issue...?

[@sweet65mustang]

I suspect you are right about the port size. Put the original spring back in and throw a can in it. And don't ever worry about 18" barrel with rifle length gas system. I have a 16"barrel with a rifle gas system. Don't tell me I'm mistaken because I'm not. It worked just fine with a non adjustable block but the point is to suppress it and turn the gas down and not get so much gas in your face.

[@aftnotmydog306]

@Josh Weaver the spring doesn't go into the receiver while the BCG is in place. When in battery, it's still keeping the buffer and spring in the buffer tube and out of the receiver. If you don't know how guns even work, you shouldn't try to diagnose their problems.

[@ThisPageIntentionallyLeftBlank]

This is literally a video about the most over engineered AR ever. Heavier BCG or lighter spring. Follow the path of resistance...

[@familiarspider6400]

😂

[@Shawn_the_Protogen]

Holy skeletonized batman, god what happened to that poor rifle

[@RJWaynerium]

The gas block being exposed like that was by far the worst thing about this

[@GBGuns]

You've never seen an M16 or M4 eh?

[@RJWaynerium]

@@GBGuns ehhhhh no, but still.

[@GBGuns]

Well, military rifles going all the way back to the AR 601 have their gas block exposed. Check out the article

[@Owwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww]

@@GBGuns i dont mean to trigger you, your comments seem a tad defensive but is it atleast dimpled? I clearly dont see pins and thats what keeps the m4 fs from getting knocked off center. I bought one of the 5 set screw m4 style ones and (back when they were "ok" fed fed boys) ran a few mags with my bumpstock. No issue sat it done relatively hard and the table at my range and slid over pretty far. I dont think youd have to much of an issue since its clearly a bench gun.

[@TheWoodsman1983]

You need a carbine buffer spring. The rifle springs have 41 to 43 coils, and the carbine springs have 37 to 39 coils. The brand-new length of the springs is approximately 12.75″ for the rifle and 10.5″ for the carbine springs.

[@craigbragg3920]

In car racing we call it coil bind… first thing i thought of when he said carbine length tube

[@GRHmedia]

You need a lighter buffer spring. It's the primary force that determines the speed the bolt carrier travels at. Bolt weight would be second to that and so on. Friction should be rather small in comparison if everything is sized right and no parts are in the wrong area.

[@jeremiad86]

Drill the barrel gas port. Worked for my 20'' 350 legend build.

[@eatyourcereal9138]

Yes, I believe he should do this. It would be quite the light show

[@jeremiad86]

@Buttbanging Trannyliberal Just used a 5/64 drill bit. should put you around .078 to .081

[@3sotErik]

Are you 100% sure that the gas port lines up with the gas block? Cheap way to tell is to use a piece of wire or toothpick that's sanded down to barely fit in the hole for the gas port. Put it in & trim flush with the top of the barrel. Cut a shear line part of the way through. Install the gas block & when you turn the barrel upside down, the wire/toothpick should freely move back & forth. Use a cleaning rod to snap it in half & make sure you recover both halves. If it does, and you still have this problem, you need to drill the hole bigger. If it doesn't, then the gas block isn't lined up. Loosen the block & wiggle it upside down, untill it drops. Then re-tighten the block. Make sure it still moves freely before using the cleaning rod to remove it.

[@deimosian]

Yep, adjustable block doesn't do shit without a wide open gas port. A normal gas port is not large enough.

[@TDAdair]

Gas block indexing and brand name gas blocks can save going to extremes. Testing bcg for leaks, and a dozen other possibilities should be done before jacking with drilling a gas port. Simply because it takes longer to polish the bore afterward than to check parts and indexing. Doubly, since DIY tubers can’t afford the drill bit to properly do a gas port. Because it does take a very expensive and hard to find bit.

[@Drew32706]

Gas block is not aligned or drilled for your barrel. If the wholes don’t align it will choke your gun. Put a none adjustable gas tube that is matched for your barrel. You don’t need an adjustable gas block unless you’re going suppressed and if you are going suppressed you should get a matched set barrel and adjustable gas block. Not all barrels are interchangeable!!!

[@GBGuns]

See pinned comment

[@Hanitcal69]

I was hoping you’d say spend and absurd amount of money to make sure every bit of dust and grit gets in the important stuff

[@stephensniff]

Typically F1 builds don’t have issues running because although they have big holes in the upper which allows dirt in, the holes also make it easy for dirt to get out.

[@WehrmachtBunny]

When I first saw that upper, I was thinking, "You just spent probably over 3,000 for something so unreliable because of them holes on the upper receiver." My one $300 AR probably outshoots this pos.

[@Hanitcal69]

@@stephensniff lol if that were true wouldn’t high speed sf guys want skeletonized stuff? Yeah it saves weight but to keep a gun running smoothly you want to keep as much grit out as possible. That’s why ar-15s have a dust cover in the first place. Not to mention getting any gear you have caught in all those holes could be a huge problem

[@Owwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwwww]

@m seriously man i hate gun video window shoppers that have to validate there 300 gun they save up for. "See you jam just as much as me." 🤣

[@crazyivandfw]

Your buffer spring is too stiff. I had the same issue.

[@jonathanclark6652]

Try a flat wire buffer spring. $20 option that may allow it to fully cycle. And where is your buffer detent? Your buffer tube isn't screwed in far enough. It should stop the detent from coming out

[@twistinprops604]

You dont need the buffer detent. Doest have anything to do with funtion.

[@gerryetheridge7480]

@@twistinprops604 Not capturing the buffer allows excess force on the rear of the bolt. Could be enough to cause a short stroke. But I'm just an old soldier , not an expert like you.

[@ringingsteel8729]

@@gerryetheridge7480 plenty of 2 and 3 gun shooters running guns without buffer detents and springs.

[@michaelsarkisian1047]

Two things I can think of, 1: the buffer spring is too strong, 2: enlarge the diameter of the the gas port on the barrel and gas block so more gas can vent to the BCG.

[@McOuroborosBurger]

That's what I was thinking as well. I'm leaning more towards too small of a gas port or gas block. Despite the adjustable block it will be limited if the gas port on the barrel is too small.

[@casualjoe1538]

gas port should be fine as is. As its purpose is to unlock the bolt, more or less. Given that he mentions that the bolt pushes back a little, it should be unlocking just fine. I agree on the spring being a possible problem, however i also suspect the munition not being heavy enough. if everything is "as light as possible" he might need to use ammo with more pressure and weight to get it to cycle properly. that and make sure everything is lubed properly as well.

[@GenScinmore]

Yep, only thing he can do

[@stoleurmoney]

Well good thing you fixed it, but if it ever fails again, you could always just use that brake on the front as a bayonet.

[@Bagheera2]

I know I'm late to the party, but short strokes are almost always spring related

[@TheDarthSoldier]

I was about to say the same thing... too heavy of a spring

[@jimmythecacodemon2397]

That's what I thought, it sounded like it was the only explanation

[@adrianbravo3454]

I was going to say it could be too stiff of a spring and maybe not a good enough seal somewhere around the gas tube

[@eric512flyer]

If you’re losing gas that could also cause your bolt to not function properly, right

[@CptCloseCall]

I was gonna say spring as well, bht can get the same-ish result with an adjustable mid‐link gas chamber.

[@selfreliance2481]

Sometimes going with all of these “upgrades” actually downgrades your rifle.

[@GBGuns]

Until you see this thing run. As stated, this build combination is uncommon, and most manufacturers avoid it because it sits on the fringe of what consumers are willing to understand and work with, but man-o-man is it a smooth shooter! (see pinned comment or video description)

[@Doonit_hard_way_since_65]

Many upgrades are like that. If the bear is tearing through the front door, I would reach for the old SP-1 that I knew was going to work every time, over the goofey-gun full of holes, and temperamental parts. Guns like that are really cool toys, but they are never going to be a practical tool. It all depends on what you want. Well, at least you got a dust-cover delete upper. I know a guy that built a skeletonized with the dust cover still there. Really have to question that logic.

[@whatmakesittick8362]

I was thinking the same thing. I had issues more with upgraded parts than standard milspec stuff on my build. I do love peoples builds like this one that just go all out for the fun of it! for most of us though, a plain-jane AR will be more gun than we have skills to handle them! Speaking of upgrading, I've also found that some expensive parts for pistols can have terrible side effects and fitment issues. Gives me quite the respect for real, skilled gunsmiths! Anyone can throw together parts, but it's the minor tuning and stoning required that most of us are unaware of or unskilled at performing!

[@justinbayola]

when you make everything lightweight the mass required to push your recoil spring back all the way isn't there. try putting a normal weight buffer and a lighter recoil spring

[@saintrexhardt8950]

My reaction to seeing the muzzle break - 'What is this, I don't even, who am I supposed to give money so that I can have one too?'

[@brandongarcia2149]

“Fix bayonets!!” Was the first thing that came to my mind😂

[@GBGuns]

It's pointy!

[@jonathanlawrence5000]

Check out Doublestar AR15 Caymen Flash Hider It is very pointy and bada$$

[@shukfahid]

youre also missing the pin that keeps the buffer where it should be.

[@Mackahroney]

thats what i was thinking, thinking maybe the buffer is keeping constant tension on the bolt carrier and the bolt isnt blowing back far enough for the round to be cycled.

[@jimlow9645]

Yes

[@jimlow9645]

Get rid of that extention piece have the buffer sit in the tube and maybe a lighter spring becausr the gas tube is 3.5 miles long.

[@MaxHavoc69]

Try a Sprinco Yellow Reduced power spring. Also where is your buffer retainer and spring (that could be the problem)? You can also take off the gas block and see how large the gas port is in the barrel, you might need to make it just a little bit larger.

[@twistinprops604]

You dont need the buffer detent. Doest have anything to do with funtion.

[@keres993]

I appreciate your brutally honest review/analysis of your own handiwork. I'll give your build a solid A- in the aesthetics department ❤ Thank you for all this good information.

[@GBGuns]

Thank you. This video was actually a bit of a social experiment and the comments used for a couple of articles.

[@NA-NB-Miata]

I’m not a professional by any means but have built close to a 50 custom AR’s. Rifle length gas tube rifle length buffer tube an spring. I ran into a very similar problem in the past . The rifle length buffer spring is a lot softer spring than the carbine spring also the rifle length buffer tube is longer it should an will also be a soft shooter. Or change your barrel to a carbine length barrel probably going to be a lot harder to adjust it way down the handguard but could be a fix for you . But I’m not a professional i just have a lot of time invested in AR’s builds good luck I hope you get it running looks like a sweet AR

[@everydaygear3730]

Jeff R. Did you get your guidance? Builder here...

[@jonblachley1911]

Take two coils off the spring. If it improves, take off two more then add weight to the buffer to smooth out the recoil. With the short barrel ( and therefore gas tube ) there will be a relatively narrow range of loads with which it will cycle.

[@alromero9561]

I was thinking the exact same thing! Custom guns require custom modification! If the gas system is dead nuts only thing a guy can try is a complete new bcg or a new adjustable gas block or start cutting the spring

[@titter3648]

You want dirt and sand to clog up your AR action? Easy: just cut a lot of holes in the upper receiver...

[@xman870096]

I agree. This build was a 'fail' when he chose that ridiculous 'cut out' upper receiver........

[@Spectre302011]

I don't think that this is one of those "Zombie Apocalypse" type builds. I suppose this was more of an art project that will sling bullets down a range for fun. I can only imagine the amount of oil/carbon this thing will slog all over the place during an extended session though. lol

[@javiergarcia---]

I agree, and could looks more ridicule if they put the dust cover

[@AngryB4ker]

@@_felx1100 Because it's his money (and property) and he can do whatever he wants with it.

[@ericgruben312]

I have nearly all Skeletonized uppers and lowers, no dust covers, ever. most are all slick sides. Hell, you can fire these pretty much covered n mud. And very easy to clean. heck I would even have to say these uppers and lowers that have the loads of "holes" perform better over all. Much of the standard gas debris has the chance to get to atmosphere and does not get trapped in the gun, or down the upper or into the buffer. The few ARs that I have that are MilSpec uppers. I have to clean the buffer tube out just as often as the rest of the gun. With my Skeletonized uppers and even in the lowers that I have Skeletonized. I am seeing much mush less "Blow Back" crap. Which really is the main "dirt" problems you find with any malfunction. I guess its a different story if you are in the military, crawling in mud, dirt and sand, every day and firing a few hundred rounds out of that dirty gun. But I would suspect it would be an issue of premature wear then malfunction. Any how, the spring would be the first item to easily change out, but I do suspect that there is an inclusion in the gas port of the barrel or gas tube restricting gas flow. But thats not so bad if its just a spring change. if you start to get stronger recoils and buffer smack, the thing interrupting the gas flow, just might had been blown out. change the spring back. lol. I have two of the f1 Uppers, love them. I would like to get the Upper and Lower set. but little more then I like to spend. I am a machinist by education and Sales Engineer by trade. So I do have a few mills and lathes to make my tooling modifications. I do a good deal of lightening on my own equipment. So, for Cutting holes in ARs I say great idea.... My three gun AR, full 16" barrel, and Full Auto BCG (I used the auto version for the greater mass in the BCG, I feel it helps speed, cycle and on target) but other wise everything has been lightened up. Just a few Oz over 6lbs. Compare that with a 9 or 10lbs. If I were in compositions against you, all day. Im gonna put money on me. lol, I have never been in combat, but I think i would still take my gun over a milspec AR any day. that 3 or 4 lbs really adds up at the end of the day. And me, I dont really care how big you are (im 6'1" 240lbs, so not a little guy). keeping my 6lbs gun on target for extended time. thats the way to go....

[@hairydogstail]

If your gas port was the correct size, then your gas block could have been cocked. If not, then your carrier is probably the problem. Loose gas key, gas key I.D. not in speck, gas tube button not in spec, or the two bores for the gas ring and bolt tail were out of spec and not gas efficient. A tight chamber could also be the problem, which you would need a function gauge to check..

[@sandiasurfers3174]

That AR looks absolutely ridiculous.

[@oasisgaming4246]

Why do you say that

[@Succulent_Lmaos]

@@oasisgaming4246 skeleton cut parts are ridiculous, screams "I play too much modern warfare".

[@hecku]

@@Succulent_Lmaos It's kinda nifty, I love a standard looking AR but a cool build like this is pretty neat given you're willing to drop the money to set it all up.

[@GBGuns]

@willie N or is it the guys who act like their operators who are the gamers. I've been to two wars and three different training schools as a civilian I know what rifle I'd use if I had to. To assume this is my only firearm is absurd.

[@authorraeallen]

haters going to hate cool AR

[@defiantmopar]

I'd drop that upper on a mil-spec lower and vise versa. Try to narrow down the possibilities

[@edwardsomers5037]

Without a video of the action, my first thought is the 'stiffness' of the slide action. It 'sounds' awfully tight. Is it tight enough that the drag results in a timing problem (as you noted). Also, you stated it was a carbine buffer/spring combination. That may be too stiff as well, and the cumulative result of drag and stiff spring slows the bolt down enough that the gas bleeds off before full cycling. I would film that in slo-mo before I touched any hard modifications.

[@jeffhudson2346]

Loosen up your upper to lower fit. If it's too tight it might bind the bolt carrier, especially with the cuts in the recievers, the cuts can take away stiffness.

[@Gunshotglory]

Your question @6:00 Try checking your alignment of your gas tube and block. I made one that was ever so slightly misaligned and had the same problem. You should be shooting fine or overgasing with all that lightweight stuff

[@The50Americans]

Yeah I just read the pinned comment, the mass of the bolt carrier and buffer are important to compress the heavy weight spring. If you lighten those you need a lighter spring. Is might sound counter intuitive but it has to do with inertia. More mass moving backwards creates more force. Bad ass build though! Glad you got it fixed!

[@GBGuns]

Check out the results! kzbin.info/www/bejne/qpupg59sqLSSfbs

[@jackblack2087]

I'm new to AR's and M&P's but, this is the first thing that crossed my mind. Especially, after he noted that he went with the lightest weight buffer and considering he noted it cycled a little stiff and experienced short strokes. Glad you figured it out. Nice build!

[@eriklorentzen6510]

I'm glad you figured it out faster than I did. I had the exact same issue. I did a budget build using a CDNN parts kit, 18" barrel, rifle length gas system, and proceeded to put in an adjustable gas block, lightweight BCG from Trojan Firearms (cannot recommend it highly enough), and then built my own 1oz spring powered deadblow buffer. effectively reducing my reciprocating mass by 1/2. had the same issue, showed it to the gun smith at the shop i worked at, he couldnt figure it out either. I even checked my gas port size, if memory serves it was 0.094in, which i think is the largest AR-15 port size, so I knew it wasnt the problem. I did some reading online, and discovered reduced power buffer springs, and got me a 25% reduced power buffer spring. trip to the range to dial in the gas block adjustment, and she runs like a sewing machine. seems that the issue with dwell time that you recognized, combines with a lack of momentum from the lightweight assembly, and there isnt enough inertia to fully compress the standard buffer spring, which causes the short stroking issue. its counter intuitive until you solve it, then it makes sense.

[@whiskey1mantis357]

When I went to light weapons school the instructor said a buffer spring needs to do two things: Strip a round off the magazine. Completely lock the bolt. A well tuned Stoner design will have a nice neat 12 inch pile of ejected brass at your 1 or 2 or 3

[@noluckpureskill9985]

1 o clock brass ejection would be over gassed as hell wouldn't it?

[@extreemairsoft]

@@noluckpureskill9985 yep

[@richardmattix5322]

Not having that retainer might just be enough to keep it from firing twice. If the spring is riding against the carrier it is reducing the ability of the to travel all the way back.

[@iammelon7803]

I’m relatively new to customizing AR platform rifles but I what came into my mind was the buffer spring. I’m glad you got it figured out.

[@rarelibra]

those "lightning cuts" on the upper receiver are the stupidest things I've ever seen ... talk about a quick way to introduce dust and dirt...

[@kawikajones9436]

yea, 100% agree!

[@jsf11fra]

Yes but no. On this gun not at all. It is a case queen and will never be a hunting rifle or prepper gun. This is like a lambo car. Hardly ever take it out and shoot it but is really cool when you do. I’m sure this isn’t his only gun....

[@GBGuns]

Nope, just take a look at the channel, I have a few

[@rarelibra]

@@jsf11fra yeah that makes sense to own something and not use it ... SMH ...

[@rarelibra]

@@GBGuns no one ever questioned whether it was the ONLY one ... it is a STUPID one, for sure... case queen or not.

[@richardhardick3633]

i noticed two things one is the buffer, when you took the gun apart the buffer was up against the trigger, therecshould be a detent that the buffer sits behind, the other thing i noticed the piece behind the fi imprint is in backwards,

[@blue03r6]

doesn't need that pin. a lot of us remove it. it's just so when you open it up it holds the buffer tube in place.

[@GBGuns]

Thousands of comments and you are the only one that knew that

[@AdversaryOne]

@@blue03r6 Why remove it? Is there a benefit to the pin not being there?

[@GBGuns]

No benefit for most users as take down becomes a little more involved (tiny amount). For me and this build it was so I could have easy access to the adjustable buffer. In this receiver the pin is threaded on with a tiny (and frail) Allen key. I didn't want to need that tool and have to use a tool just to get to my buffer.

[@blue03r6]

@@AdversaryOne it's a military designed weapon. It's designed to be used by ...no offence to our military men and women ..by idiots lol. It's to make the gun easier to field strip. If you forget it's not there the spring and buffer can fly out when you open the upper from the lower. When the gun is assembled the buffer rests against the bolt carrier not the pin.

[@jdanderson1105]

Does your buffer have too much friction in the tube? Check fit and lube tube.

[@xnorcal831x]

I would check the barrel port. If it is too small. No matter how light you go it won't cycle before leaving the barrel. I would swap the barrel out.

[@pjm204]

Why not just enlarge the gas port if that ends up being the issue?

[@pabloruiz4037]

I would check the bolt ring gaps make sure they are staggerd and not lined up a friend of mine had the same problem and I checked it out for him and that was the problem hope this helps

[@roygrisham7663]

I don’t see the pin that holds back the buffer???

[@jayzenitram9621]

First thing I said was "why is that buffer hanging out there like that?"

[@deimosian]

A lot of people never install those, they are known for the tip breaking off and getting stuck in the fire control group and they are not really necessary. Karl has talked about it a few times on InRangeTV. The only time you actually need one is when you have a folding buffer adapter.

[@user-pk8pf8nh6s]

@@deimosian That never happens. I don't care what Karl says. I worked as a gunsmith, and never heard or saw this. I built 100s of guns and FA guns too and this never happened. From not putting it in. It could cause the buffer to follow the carrier out. Could tilt and hit the buffer tube lip on the way back in, and cause malfunctions. Who knows giving so many different parts these days. All I know is I would never leave that part out. The customer can make those type of mods themselves. As they are responsible for making the gun malfunction and void the warranty. When they leave our shop they are tested and given a warranty on parts. As I'm sure any manufacturer would do.

[@SubTexe1]

@@deimosian Only time I've had issues with any of my ARs like in the video is with that pin not installed (issues like mentioned below)

[@dandexinventor]

@@user-pk8pf8nh6s Not that it's any issue, but I like to build my AR's up myself, so I can see him messin with things and learning. I have wondered about leaving the buffer spring retaining pin out, but never tried it, so good advice I think on your part. These AR's are as fun to build as shoot, maybe more so. I don't think I'll ever buy one complete, or even completed upper or lower. Only my first after the Marines was complete, an AR-10T I really liked as is when I saw it in ODG. It shot 1MOA out to 1100 yards with a U.S. Optics scope. I hated to lose that thing when a huge theft at my place occurred.

[@therealdestructicus]

I dunno, milling holes all the way through your upper is pretty dumb to begin with.

[@UrsineArms]

Haha sand dust and dirt go brrrrrrrr in your moving parts

[@Doonit_hard_way_since_65]

I don't get the novelty of it either. You would think people would have gotten over that idea after the sho-sho magazines back in WW1, but nope, we need to relearn the lesson. Too much light weight extreme in this build. He has removed all the moving mass he can, and the result is no function. Not the first one to do it, and not the last. The AR design needs that mass to operate properly, and reliably.

[@GBGuns]

See the article, I think it'll be eye opening

[@Doonit_hard_way_since_65]

@@GBGuns Very nice looking rifle. sure a long way form that used first gen SP-1 that caught my eye when I was 18.

[@jasonwhite9211]

My rifle did that when I first got it together, change your spring in Buffer

[@divereviews6752]

Cut about an inch off of the spring coils. And keep cutting or find a softer spring.

[@travisholland1021]

Might have to do that on a build myself. I have plenty of spare springs.

[@looseballs1966]

@@travisholland1021 springs are cheap start cutting.

[@matthewfox3760]

The fact that coated the upper & lower may have something to do with the fitment of the pins between the upper and lower- you have added material

[@joeevans8531]

Looks like the detent and spring that keeps your buffer and spring locked in place is missing or was never installed

[@kingnormac1252]

I noticed that myself

[@GBGuns]

Yup, it's in the box

[@madkow2001]

Misconception that you need them. They break so often the many guys just stopped using them. One less part to worry about. You do not need them!

[@jasonbackey]

Maybe go with 16 inch barrel as well

[@GBGuns]

See video description or our latest video

[@hsharma3933]

I could tell just by hearing you cycle your action. It’s your buffer spring. I think you chose a rifle length buffer spring. Is it hard to lock the bolt back?

[@extremebreedscatlife]

I think it looked and sounded extremely dry as well as the spring.

[@therealgaragegirls]

That was my initial thought as well. Dry! And that recoil spring is way too strong for the lightweight bolt carrier and buffer.

[@youngcowboy6594]

Probably because you tried to lighten every single thing except the buffer spring. There's a reason why the mil spec parts are a certain weight, so it can work in unison with 5.56 and .223. It's a mathematical equation and it should equate to 0, but the buffer spring is not changed therefore will not equate to 0. Not to mention there could be issues when firing, since these are technically out of spec. What I would do is either change the buffer spring or both the buffer and bolt carrier group to regular specifications. Without it is just an expensive paperweight like you said. The difference between this and others' factory AR builds is the constant calculating and also physical testing.

[@G2niverse]

Springgggggg! Just cut rungs off one at a time until it cycles. Then when you realize it's the spring, buy a low power buffer storing

[@p47rr]

I all ways go to a tubbs flat spring buffer spring when I have cycling problems with a gas gun. Fixed my problems every time. A gentleman with Larue told me that 95% of the time the tubbs spring fixes cycling problems.

[@vader7306]

It looked like you were missing the buffer pin holding the weight into the tube. That might be putting pressure on the bolt before it’s even fired causing it to short. Since there is force against the back of the bolt. Or it’s just unbalanced like others were saying

[@mrcrawlingstv]

That was the first thing I thought. Try that and then try a lighter spring

[@gbjivs]

Yrs i agree

[@animalmother9753]

Sorry for being late to the party but I just saw this video in my recommended. Hey Vader7, I had to do a double take when I saw that myself. I figured I missed him taking the buffer detent out but upon rewinding the video....no, the buffer and spring was already out. I was having similar problems with my AR-10 .308 Win and AR-15 .300 Ham’r rifles. I would crank the adjustable block fully open and every third empty mag, the bolt wouldn’t catch in the open position. When I took it apart I noticed the hole to the gas block was twice the size of the barrel and drilled a bigger opening for the gas to escape. Took it to a gunsmith for a second look and he was able to adjust the gas block perfectly and it would catch the bolt open everytime. Only problem he said there was, the bolt would return very sluggish. I told him I replaced the .308 buffer spring with a lighter .458 SOCOM spring to compensate but I’d slap the right spring in the rifle to fix the sluggish return issue. I’m guessing the buffer detent would help the issue but I’m thinking because it’s a rifle length gas tube, the barrel gas hole will need to be drilled out to match the block hole aswell. Does anybody know if he fixed the issue yet?

[@GBGuns]

Yes "he" has. Check the video description or for a spoiler read the article: www.ballisticmag.com/impossible-ar-build-myths/

[@animalmother9753]

@@GBGuns Thanks a lot for the article link, it was a fun read. I too hate building the same ole same crap everybody else builds. But sometimes you run into a road block and trying to get a gunsmith to understand the issue is almost impossible. Did you ever figure out what the original buffer spring was for? I remember bringing in a left handed .50 Beowulf AR-15 for fitment issues to my gunsmith and at the same time another customer brought in a completely built .50 Beowulf AR from Alexander arms I’m guessing. He was having different issues, apparently the guy putting the rifle together decided to slap a buffer and buffer spring from a 5.56 rifle in his and it created all kinds of over-gassing and recoil problems. It’s amazing something so simple can cause a big headache.

[@samboheena]

This reminds me of problems you get when trying to soup up things beyond practicality.

[@s0nnyburnett]

Break the working formula and have to develop a totally new one.

[@dw7094]

Yep, all of a sudden everyone is smarter than Eugene Stoner.

[@ghjytffjkk]

Yes this is what happens when you I have absolutely no idea what you’re doing... This is like walking through a junkyard and taking pieces off random cars because they look cool and then trying to make a race car out of it

[@ghjytffjkk]

@@s0nnyburnett absolutely take a product that engineers worked on for decades to perfect and then replace all of those products all of those components because they don’t look like you want them to... I don’t necessarily believe in background checks for firearms but I believe there should at least be an IQ test

[@GBGuns]

You should probably not watch the follow up videos, they'll leave you feeling embarrassed

[@CaveWyatt]

This is funny in that it demonstrates a rule of my life: the more “upper end” parts I get the less chance the aggregate has of working properly. I have both an AR pistol and a rifle that I threw together out of spare parts and some very cheap parts (the pistol has an Anderson lower). They will shoot any ammo, any time. A couple of rifles that I thought, “I’m making a really nice one here” turned out to be delicate and finicky in the extreme. Note, this has proven to be true in other areas, e.g. Airsoft guns (no, I’m not saying I built them.), audio equipment, just generally stuff that I love and wanted to be great, wasn’t. Not that a lot of cheap stuff doesn’t disappoint, but I’ve had way too much trouble with “upper end” stuff. Weird.

[@samshide611]

mid range is wonderful because if something doesn't work it's not a huge loss but if it does then it usually exceeds expectations

[@gsyoung54]

Friens of mine who fixed heating boilers, commercial and home, said the same thing. Short of a water jacket cracking, most home problems were simple... worn electrodes, clogged old dirty nozzle, photocell covered with soot... etc. People always throw too much money at guns, cars and boilers to fix simple problems. My old Bushmasters and DPMS's with their crummy triggers and phosphate bolt carriers always work.

[@blrenx]

I had the same problem . First look at the mag release . If it's not tighten properly it will fail to feed. . also make sure the gas block holes are perfectly aligned . Pull out the screws then look through the hole ,then you can line it up using a small punch

[@mich685]

Lube and grease the HELL out of the BCG. AR/15 M/16 platform rifles were meant to be run wet. The BCG is dry @ 2:52 when you pulled the charging handle that metal on dry metal noise made me cringe. PLEASE lube your rifle.

[@dbelex]

Kind of messy with that stupid upper.

[@matthewbeaver5026]

Much of that sound is from no spring detent being installed There is constant pressure on the rear of the bcg.

[@mattford4056]

My family has owned a bar for years. I used to call the patrons “my panel of experts”. They had something to say about EVERYTHING! Lol

[@herberthuff1172]

Change the gas block

[@herberthuff1172]

Change the gas block

[@TheInfamousGammer]

I don't have the slightest idea what's going on but I will act like I do

[@mpleonatti]

me too!

[@DeltaEchoGolf]

I have no idea either. But with all the lightweight parts involved something was bound to go wrong. The next question is, now that he solved the problem. Is that with such tight tolerances, what about the rifle's durability?

[@darnellsmith363]

@Henry "My man" 🤜🤛 I served 5 1/2 and I was lost in some areas bcuz either ppl know uppers or lowers at "most" times

[@roberttempler4555]

Your a stormtrooper! We know you don't know anything about guns or hitting a target! lol...

[@swiftaccuratemaintenanceof171]

Honestly, these videos of ‘mistakes’ are very useful! I don’t know much about much but I appreciate the knowledge!!

[@kotaboy32]

DS Arms and yes it is made of aluminum

[@GBGuns]

Thanks @kotaboy32 Tactical. It had been so long since I bought it I couldn't remember. Check out the second video to see how this thing runs.

[@GBGuns]

Shoot me a text

[@GBGuns]

@твоя мама It is fixed. See the video description. Changing the gas system was not needed.

[@jasonb4350]

First you don’t have a buffer retainer, and you have the wrong buffer and bolt carrier and no real need for the adjustable gas block unless you plan to use a suppressor. Try a carbine buffer and a regular bolt carrier because I don’t believe your short stroking I believe the carrier is moving way to fast to pick up the next round.

[@GBGuns]

Incorrect. See video description

[@joejohnston1776]

Spring. Once you get it running sell it. Head over to the folks at BCM......and you’re welcome

[@stevenj9251]

I was also going to recomend BCM lol

[@joejohnston1776]

Steven J Agreed BCM those guys know how to build a rifle. Doesn’t need those ridiculous hipster cuts for that tacticool feel and appearance

[@siegemoo6014]

joe johnston love BCM to death but mannnnn does anyone else have a bit of an issue with the gas from their upper? I run my BCM on an identical build where I also run a Gieselle upper where I don’t have as much of a gas issue.

[@noel8604]

@@michaelb2906 function over form any day. If you want to look cool, good on you. It isn't going to make you a better shooter.

[@N1K5M1TH]

Popcorn 🍿

[@sophiansophian]

The Worst Thing You Can Do For Your AR : Get A New Young Sleek AK To Make It Jealous.

[@bigfoot3866]

For half the price

[@goldienakamoto7894]

😁

[@Pattern51lover]

Worth it

[@mikeadams8293]

Check with school of the American rifle (SOTAR) KZbin channel. They have several videos on bolt/gas key dimensions that can contribute to that type of problem.

[@kevmoful]

I’m late, but pretty sure that’s a buffer spring issue.

[@crocholiday]

Yep. Mine had the same issue. Couldn't figure it out. Threw the upper on a buddy's lower, worked fine. Swapped out the buffer assembly with his just to see, worked fine. Finally replaced it and no issues ever now. Not totally sure why the buffer didn't work right but that was it. Just read comments below and looks like you found it lol.

[@Jeffbowhunter1]

A drop of oil would probably help too .

[@Yashiro-nene_dies]

@@crocholiday rifle length gas system need less spring pressure to move reward since there such little gas left during the dwell time. I have an 18" rifle length barrel with a rifle length buffer tube and spring and it runs like a top.

[@dylangraham9810]

I have a 18inch mpr. With a super light spring runs like a top. You need a new spring

[@jeremiah6462]

I guess on the plus side, resolving his issue was incredibly cheap and easy.

[@shelbyseelbach9568]

Seems like you've built yourself a really finicky, problematic rifle there. Those pins, those pins, those pins. Damn.

[@ap1s2k78]

Lmao truth

[@LavitosExodius]

Late to the party but honestly that spring looks like it's probably got way more muscle then you need.

[@molonlabe9602]

My inexpensive PSA build runs great and is accurate too. Glad to see you got it figured out. Happy shooting.

[@jeff-michelleshepherd1728]

The spring is what i was gonna say yeah runs like a champ now huh

[@tjleath9042]

Seeing a lot of the same in here my first thought is the buffer spring is to much especially for all the light weight parts around it

[@frankgon4]

What is your buffer spring weight? Sounds like your gas port is undersized. Looks like you have room to adjust if it does get overgasssed

[@Mischievousmiz]

I think your miss your buffer retainer, I didn't see it or hear you speak of it

[@GBGuns]

See the article in the video description

[@tompkib]

Where is the detent that holds your buffer?

[@New2Kendo]

Allot of us dont use them because they are known to break amd shut down your rifle, also I run thr JP Silent Captured system and not having the detent makes installing them much easier

[@twistinprops604]

You dont need the buffer detent. Doest have anything to do with funtion.

[@tobygonzales3114]

@@twistinprops604 true but do notice what part he edits out. I look at it like this if I need to swap bolt carrier group because say fire pin broke. I swap out to spare bcg but instead of being able to flip the upper reciever and slapping a pin in to back in the fight, now I must fight that damn spring and buffer in a already high stress situation. Just my train of thought 🤷🏽‍♂️

[@tobygonzales3114]

@@New2Kendo never know that to happen. Not even the beat to dog shit rifles we used in basic training had that issue.

[@D41Michigan]

@@tobygonzales3114 the guys breaking them likely are using bcgs that don't have the cut for the detent on the under side of the bcg. Ive never seen one break either during my active duty service

[@MoejoTheGreat]

That buffer spring looks pretty beefy.

[@johnparrish9215]

I'm going to have to go with several others here and say enlarge the gas port. Out of curiosity, have you ever tried it with a Suppressor??? That would also increase the gas, just to see if it helps.

[@Beastauce]

A carbine length gas system should fix it imho.

[@GBGuns]

Yes, but defeat the intent of the design. See our follow up videos for performance a carbine gas system can't do.

[@eugenejensen576]

Riffle length spring and drill out gas hole to .075 had to do this to my 300 aac and 6.5 Grendel you already have a adjustable gas block but before you go buy parts see if the shell case has damage to it and need to know where the shell casings are ejecting at as in position on the clock they should be at the 3 to 4 o’clock point for proper setting if it is not ejecting then check barrel, gas block hole diameter and barrel gas hole diameter and try a different BCG if it is ejecting it to the 1 to 3 position then it is over gassing it and turn gas block down

[@matyd7945]

So....my ar is what im expecting is a short stroke. Sometime either the spent casing doesn't come out and stove pipes also the ejection pattern is all over the place when it does spit them out. I put new bcg(anderson chrome lined) and have tried both of the buffers and springs I have. 16inch barrel. Carbine buffer tube. Im assuming carbine buffer and spring. Gun was built at a shop that is no longer in service. Im assuming its got to be buffer spring and buffer issues. Also...my buddy smashed my magpul ctr stock to pieces trying to do his marine trick of clearing a stove pipe. So I have a moe fixed carbine stock on for now until he replaces it. Ill tell you...with these new parts...it still stove pipes...but it kicks like a friggen mule! Just as bad if not worse than my m44 mosin!! Any thoughts?

[@matyd7945]

Just a touch more info....sometimes the ejection will be 1 to 3 o'clock. Sometimes it will piddle out of the chamber and land at my feet. Every now and then it will shoot 3 o'clock a few feet.

[@eugenejensen576]

Maty D sounds like ether over gassing so it’s trying to eject before the pressure in the barrel drops and causing the ejector to slip off the case because it is still swollen or you have a broken ejector or it needs the o-ring installed on it check the bolt out and the ejected cases for damage

[@matyd7945]

Will do...with the old unmarked bcg...it was stove piping but appeared to be ejecting normal other than that. With the new anderson chrome lined bcg(better quality presumably) the ejection pattern is extremely random and stove pipes are about the same. Over gassing can be solved by what exactly? Should I seek out professional help? Instead of throwing parts at it??

[@kevindgay101]

My first impression would have been, after seeing this for the first time and reading a few comments, would have been "A reduced-power buffer spring" perhaps might help as it looks like you covered almost everything else with the product choices of the build. Thinking the spring had too much pressure to keep the BCG and buffer from moving like it should to cycle. My background comes from many "captured silent spring buffers' I've installed into several AR-15 builds as well as a couple AR-308 .308 and 6.5mm Creedmoor builds and trying to hit it right on the head, first off, so I wouldn't have to troubleshoot too much on initial firing without many hiccups, or any...!!! And I have to say on my first personal 5 rifles and about 5 more customized .308, 5.56, .223, 300 bo, .458 SOCOM and a .50 cal beowulf, for buddies rifles, upgrades and mods, etc. I'm batting 100% w/o having to substitute major components, only minor adjustments, some minor parts swapping,since I had some around by now..;-p. I LOVE that when it happens..!!..:-) LOL...Just call me Lucky.....heh Regards.

[@nateriegelmayer7215]

Did you ask Eugene Stoner? I heard he engineered something similar...

[@TonySevilla-u1t]

The buffer ispring is not secured