BMW K1200RS full service

[@robertholmes4326]

McEvoy, I really enjoyed the effort you put into your videos. Very clear & descriptive. Seriously looking at a 1999 k1200RS with 35k miles, under $3k. With your skillset I recommend videos on mass production items people are having trouble with. Your in a niche market with the traxxas and other vids. Your level of detail applied to top selling items with common troubles could explode your market. Your commentary is inspirational!

[@gmcevoy]

My goodness Robert, such kind words leave me speechless. I could not thank you enough. It is just what I needed to get the wind under my tail. Still trying to figure out how to integrate this video producing habit into my business, so I can keep on doing this. I enjoy it so much! :-) You won't be disappointed in your purchase, if you decide to go through with it. It is a wonderfully manufactured machine, with heaps of torque on top of decent power. Thanks again for your comment. It is the fuel that keeps this channel rolling, and comments like yours are highly valued.

[@nmccw3245]

As the owner of an ‘03 K12RS is good to see a neglected bike getting some attention. 👍🏻

[@gmcevoy]

The bike shows its appreciation by running smoothly and reliably, now. 🙂

[@dennisblack6042]

Love the video. Subbed. Narrative is fantastic

[@gmcevoy]

Many thanks for your highly appreciated feedback!

[@petehunter412]

great video, I've owned a k1200 rs for 14 years and its never let me down. The main issues I've had over the years have been black gunk in the braking system, which was the insides of the brake pipes breaking down and the main seal went on the end of the crank which spilled oil over the clutch. The clutch and main seal was a big job which needed a few special tools but was ok. I've also had the fuel pump seal leak and couldn't get a proper replacement so used a 6mm thick piece of Viton rubber and cut my own. I`m about ready to do the camchain and cam shims next. Thanks again for an excellent video.

[@gmcevoy]

Thank you for sharing your story! Good thinking on the Viton seal! The crank oil seal is a classic. Big job indeed, and expensive as well. One of those jobs ending up with "while I am at it,..." I must change the timing chain too real soon, and one or two cam shims are a just about out of tolerance. Another hefty bill coming up, right there. I seem to remember a single bucket shim costs around £30. Fingers crossed, not all 16 need changing! I am glad to be a professional, able to do the job myself, as it is also one of those time-consuming operations. Great fun, however... :-) Thanks again for your comment, it is highly appreciated!

[@breezy15101]

Learned so much from you. Thank you!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@BeauBeeTheDog]

Just bought a sparklingly clean 2002... thanks for doing this video. It will definitely help me keep my bike running running right.

[@gmcevoy]

Awesome! Welcome to the club! We should really get a club thing going. haha. Enjoy your marvellous piece of Bavarian technology. You are going to love it! I am happy to know that I have given you confidence to take care of it yourself. I will certainly post more about it as I go along with various interventions. I need to change the timing chains real soon, there is play in the swingarm and I might have to replace the clutch as well... These will come along in due course... In any case, have fun out there, and thank you for watching and your kind words! That's what I live for, right there. :-)

[@BeauBeeTheDog]

@@gmcevoy I have to admit, despite my 40 years of riding and fixing most of my own stuff, this bike is scary when it comes to fixing. The time will come when I have to do this stuff but, for the moment anyway, it came to me in absolute perfect working condition. I look forward to more of your videos.

[@gmcevoy]

@@BeauBeeTheDog I know how you feel. All that tech, hidden under that fairing... It's like every first time: you are tense until you unbutton that beautiful dress. You will then see that she's only a regular four pot, with a twin overhead cam setup and sixteen valves, laying on its side. A very familiar sight, when you have as much experience as you do. The only fright you will get is because of the pricey parts required to keep it up to scratch. A clutch system will set you back a full 600€ and some, while a 'bucket shim' required to set valve clearance is roughly 30€ a pop... and there are sixteen of them. Luckily, not all need adjusting, but as you have seen in my case, I will have to replace a few soon, as tolerances are sitting on the fence right now... I will combine that with timing chain replacement, as the camshafts have to come off anyway. Looking forward to having you stick around! Let me know if you are in distress in between now and the next upload. If I can give you the confidence you need, all you have to do is ask. :-)

[@boldyrefff]

Hello from Russia! from "sunny" Siberia)) Thanks for the quality video! It is immediately clear that you are a professional in your business! I also have a wonderful motorcycle BMW K 1200rs. Thanks again for the detailed instructions! Tomorrow I will replace the oil filter, engine oil, transmission and gearbox! Shoot another video, I'll be waiting!

[@gmcevoy]

Excellent, Johny. Thank you for your comment! Have fun with that tomorrow, and please let me know how it goes! :-) I have to replace timing chain soon, and also adjust valves. Thank you for watching!

[@enricotortellini]

I learned a lot from you. Thanks! I’ve ridden an ‘04 K12RS since 2007 with 65K miles now. Btw, I believe the reason for the spring between the valve cover and engine block is to provide electrical grounding, preventing a shock should your body contact the cover.

[@gmcevoy]

I am truly happy to know that you got something out of this video. I also thought the spring to be for grounding, as he bolts are insulated by the rubber grommets. They truly think of everything, at BMW. :-) Or at least, they used to. Don't know what it's like now, except that it is surely much more complicated. Thank you for your comment!

[@robertpshaw]

Very nice. Authentic, showing warts and all (meaning fuel gauge sender). I wish there was this quality of video detail for my airhead r65, with casual gripes and cautions. Entertaining as well. Thanks.

[@gmcevoy]

Much obliged Bob! I did do a tune-up video of an R69S not long ago. You might find it interesting as well. Take care, and thank you for your kind words!

[@CiaranCooney]

More K1200RS videos please!! I’m buying one this week so want to have as many of these types of videos as I can get

[@gmcevoy]

Nice! Please consider subscribing then, and maybe even become a patron! Every little bit helps in producing these videos, and you might well be entitled to exclusive tech support too! :-) I will be changing the timing chain soon, which involves adjusting valves and a few other things. I also have to address swing arm bearings and bushes, as they are worn and gives a rather worrying feeling to the bike. The clutch is also starting to slip upon hard acceleration, but I think I will leave that until next year. So many more videos still to come! Right now I am doing my best to keep as constant as possible with releases, but I am having a hard time keeping my main business afloat, and I have many other entertaining projects in the pipeline, which I hope you will enjoy as much as this one. Producing these tech videos takes a huge amount of time, and I can only make them during my spare time which is scarce. In any case, thank you for watching, and for your encouragements! You will love your K, and hopefully I will be able to help you keep it in tip-top shape. All the best Ciarán!

[@rod8823]

Many thanks 😃 I have one of these that is due a service - I will have my laptop with your vid beside my ramp 😶

[@gmcevoy]

Awesome! Have fun, Rod!

[@chrishapp4742]

Your Morgan Carbtune II should have come with small orifices that go into each vacuum line to the gauges. It takes out that pulsing from the intakes.

[@gmcevoy]

I suppose they might have revised the design since I bought this one.

[@andrewthompson9733]

Grey/yellowish fluid (emulsification) - crank case breather (oil mist) venting into airbox mixes with condensation from the inlet air supply, especially seen on boxes sited above a hot engines. Go for a blast then park up in the garage with a cooking engine. Noticed a lot of heavy fluttering on the vacuums, see this a lot people forget/don't fit the restrictors on the tubes, best placed close to the gauge set about a couple of inches down - hey presto rock steady.

[@gmcevoy]

Thanks for the tip about the gauge! Yes, that crank case breather tends to get gunked up quicker on short runs. Thankfully, I wring the throttle on long rides, haven't checked again but I am pretty sure it's okay now. :-) Thanks again Andrew, much appreciated.

[@eddyhoughton6542]

Nice one for the info Andrew. I was wondering where that gooey deposit came from. I'm always worried when fixing the symptoms of a problem without ascertaining the cause.

[@helgimagnusarson6118]

I do like your positiv attitude, energy, knowledge, and tone in all your videoes 🥰

[@gmcevoy]

Thank you for saying so! It is much appreciated. 🙂

[@jaygrosse8365]

Thanks for posting this, it looks like you know what you’re doing. I have a K1200RS and it is the most enjoyable BMW motorcycle I’ve ever ridden, and also looks fabulous. Wonderful engine! Personally, I’m not a fan of the K&N air filters. They increase performance by allowing more airflow per second but also more dirt per second, so the trade-off is not worth it to me. I’ve seen this confirmed with independent testing, but the most convincing proof I’ve seen is from Project Farm on KZbin. However, as you suggest, there’s some controversy about this, and your preference may vary.

[@gmcevoy]

Thank you Jay! I do know my way around a proper toolbox, as I am a professional mechanic. :-) I must say that I sincerely prefer this bike over the K100 I used to own. Regarding the K&N filter, I would be inclined to agree with you. The main difference is that I am a true Summer Sunday biker, as in I ride in nothing less than full sunshine, when the road is nice and hot and my tyres get tacky. This being a road bike, it will only see asphalt, so I strongly believe that the K&N is an improvement. Where it a dirt bike, I would obviously not have gone down that road, but as I am 100% certain that I will only ride in clear conditions on paved roads, it won't be seeing much dirt or grit. And the filter gets washed and oiled yearly henceforth, regardless of what little mileage it sees. I will take a look at the Project Farm that you mention, thanks for the tip! Thanks again for watching, and enjoy your K1200RS, bro! Stay safe out there! :-)

[@mumblety96]

K1200RS has to be the most beautiful, overlooked bike.

[@RodriguesMedeiros]

I`m Gilson from Brasil. First time I saw your videos and I loved it! Congratulations!!

[@gmcevoy]

Thank you Gilson! Your appreciation means a lot to me!

[@leofelix5015]

Woow felled into 2 BMW bikes n this is AWSOME work THANK YOU

[@gmcevoy]

You are most welcome. Thank YOU for watching, and for showing your appreciation!

[@pviljams]

Oof, if only you had released this two years ago when I bough my K1200RS. I went through a lot of manuals, forums and youtube videos but managed it, this would have made it a lot easier. Keep up the good work!

[@gmcevoy]

Awesome! Thanks for the kind words, and sorry I arrived too late. :-) Feel free to share with your communities, if you think this video could be of value to other people in the same case as you. Thanks again! Much appreciated.

[@colinharris-cross9712]

I have a problem with my 199 K1200RS that I purchased during Covid in 2020. The previous owner (only owner prior to me) had a work accident in the year 2000 & only clocked up 12.5K on the bike & has been unable to ride it since the accident! I purchased it & had it freighted to me & it was a great bike to ride. Unfortunately, I now live on a farm in NSW (OZ) & due to the huge amount of rain & the 8 klm's of dirt road, I have only put a thousand klm's on it. the weather has changed & we have had the road repaired, so I stripped the fuel tank & all associated parts down, replaced those parts needing it & after putting it back together, I have 1 electrical connection that doesn't seem to go anywhere! I didn't take photos because I thought I was so smart & now I don't know where it should go!!!! I have the manual, but its photos are pretty basic & are no help! Can you help out with any info on the electrical connections surrounding the throttle body, Injectors etc.?

[@gmcevoy]

Hi there, and congrats on finding a rare low-mileage, one owner bike! That's definitely one to keep! It could be a connector for cruise control or something like that. Feel free to send a pic or two to [e-mail]. It might help to see what it looks like. I look forward to hearing from you!

[@colinharris-cross9712]

@@gmcevoy Thanks James for your input. I’m not sure how to upload photos on KZbin. I have about 5 photos that I would like to share with you! Can you help me out please? Cheers Col

[@gmcevoy]

Hi @@colinharris-cross9712. I received your photos, and answered your email. Maybe check your spam folder, just in case it got skimmed out of your inbox. And also, it's Geoffrey, not James. 🙂

[@gmcevoy]

@@colinharris-cross9712 Hi Col, Did you get my reply by email?

[@colinharris-cross9712]

@@gmcevoyI’ve checked all my spam etc. but can’t find it! Cheers Col

[@michaelpullen6812]

Excellent video! In the market for one of these, so I am trying to learn everything possible about them….thank you!

[@gmcevoy]

It is a truly fantastic bike to own. Totally underrated for now, and definitely the time to grab one before prices go up. Thank you for showing your appreciation, and enjoy the hunt! 🙂You will love ownership once you find the right one for you.

[@BadenBadenSwitzerBaden]

Quick note about changing the in-tank fuel filter. The fuel vent access cap lower on the right side of the tank had a poorly designed 'L-profile' gasket system (seen at 12:18) that was upgrade in later '98 models. There are two different OEM numbers for this gasket (Nr. 16117654903 prior to early 98' and 16117686297 for later models). If you have the early version you will absolutely want to change this gasket at least once to ensure the factory gasket has been swapped out.

[@gmcevoy]

Good point! Duly noted.

[@Mr_Dia-Tribe]

Great bike so it's a car engine laying on it's side scary stuff. Wonder what that clay like substance was it definatly needed some love and expertly done i must say and that beer at the end was well earned good to see you back and will see you on the next one

[@gmcevoy]

That sums it up quite well indeed. The engineers at BMW developed this engine in the late 70's early 80's. It was first applied to the BMW K100, and this is the evolution. Also, it was the first water-cooled unit they used, and in-line 4 cylinder as well. Miles away from the good old air-cooled boxer engine. This has massive torque all across the rev range. They also broke the self-imposed 100bhp limit, and managed to squeeze 130 horses into this one. This is not the last time you will see this engine. :-) See you soon, Darren!

[@SalsamichaelA]

Most be very valuable if you have a K1200RS, I saw it anyway! Great video

[@gmcevoy]

I am not entirely sure what you mean by this comment, but I am grateful that you have watched the whole episode. If you are referring to the market value of the bike, these usually change owners for around 2k€. I was given this opportunity as a part exchange for a service that I provided, so I am extremely thankful for that. I would not have been able to afford such a bike otherwise.

[@SalsamichaelA]

@@gmcevoy Ah, sorry, what I meant was that your video must be very helpfull to a K1200RS owner. Unfortunately, here in Denmark bikes are very expensive due to 3X taxes, buy one bike, pay three..

[@gmcevoy]

@@SalsamichaelA My goodness, that sounds terribly frustrating. It appears that more and more governments want people to stop having fun and being happy... Sad to hear that, Michael. Thanks again for watching my video. I hope to at least share my bike in some way by making videos about it. :-)

[@Gaby83]

Thank you very much for the video, just bought one, last week, let's just say some people shouldn't own bikes....anyway, same gunk in the coolant, same oil in the breather tube, I "fixed" mine , because in the UK it is 60£ a new one and let's just say I have bought a lot of parts for this bike already ...wife very unhappy 😁, but I really want to make the bike work properly for myself. PS: mine has a rough noise from the engine ? But when I pull the clutch it goes away ...I think some clutch issues as well ... Thank you again for the video, it helped me a lot !!! 👍🙂

[@gmcevoy]

Hi Gaby! Congrats on your purchase, and hooray for saving such a great bike! The noise you hear (like rocks in a box, pretty much) is the clutch actuation rod going from the slave cylinder to the clutch. It lives in a tube that goes through the gearbox, and a little felt bush is supposed to centre it. After the years, that felt bush just disintegrates, leaving the clutch actuation rod to rattle in its tube... Nothing more than a pain to the ears, really, but something than can be addressed during the next clutch replacement. I have to do mine soon, as it slips when I open the throttle nice and wide... So watch this space! More maintenance videos still to come! I also have play in the swingarm, and a whole bunch of other small things to take care of. Otherwise, I am perfectly happy with hit. In fact, I might take it out for a spin this afternoon. :-) Have fun with your K Gaby, and speak soon I hope. All the best, Geoffrey

[@d2nt3]

This is an amazing video.

[@gmcevoy]

Thank you so much for saying so! I put a lot of effort in producing it, so your recognition goes a long way. Thanks!

[@alfiorusso3898]

Thank you Geoffrey for video

[@gmcevoy]

You are welcome, Alfio.

[@nickwells55]

Great video, got to change the crankshaft breather on my k12 i think it's split as well

[@gmcevoy]

Thank you for saying so, Nick! Much appreciated! If your bike is running rough it quite likely is. The temporary fix I carried out seems to be holding up well so far, however. Thanks again, stay safe, and enjoy your K!

[@MrKapmoxa]

Спасибо, брат, это очень полезное видео. Теперь мне не страшно самому обслужить мотоцикл.

[@gmcevoy]

Идеально! Я рада, что вы чувствуете себя уверенно, делая это самостоятельно. Спасибо за просмотр.

[@mumblety96]

Way above my skill level unless SHTF, but great reference. Thanks.

[@gmcevoy]

Never say never, glad you find this interesting nevertheless! Thank you!

[@SsgtHolland]

Great video, thanks Geoffrey!

[@gmcevoy]

Thank you!

[@bruceharris5330]

Great video. I have a 2003 K1200RS and have a problem with my test suspension having a 'clunk' type sound on hard bumps or ruts. It does not feel broken or loose, but feels like it needs lube or some type of grease. All my bikes from Honda to Ducati have a way to grease the swingarm bolts and rear suspension. I cannot find any place on this BMW to lube the rear suspension! Any advice on this problem? Thanks

[@gmcevoy]

From what I recall, it is all mounted on rubber bushes. If something clunks, then a bush must have disintegrated. There is no lubrication needed anywhere else than on the swingarm bearings. This bike is solidly built 🙂. With the bike on the centre stand, try to push and pull the rear wheel from side to side, left and right. See if there is any play in the swingarm bearings.

[@bruceharris5330]

Thanks for the prompt reply. There is no play at all. It is just a feeling of metal on metal with harder bumps. From what you are saying, I'm thinking that the rubber bushings may have just gone like older men.... Softer over time! 😂😂 Thank you for your thoughts

[@terryanderson8354]

Superbly interesting and educational!

[@gmcevoy]

Thank you Terry! I put a lot of effort into this one, it is nice to have your recognition. All the best!

[@MotorScotti]

Excellent video, thank you!

[@Bavenbushcraft]

Excellent video thanks so much. So very well filmed, edited and narrated! I'm about to buy a 98 K1200rs with 40k miles on it. Good to learn some wrenching skills! As I understand it, the older models are more reliable, non servo brakes and a simpler ABS system?

[@gmcevoy]

Many thanks for showing your appreciation. It goes a long way. There is no servo system, but it does have ABS. Mine does anyway. I am not sure if it was an optional extra, but at any rate it is handy. I was sceptical at first because the system does add a lot of weight to the bike, but it already saved me a couple of times in hairy situations where I would have otherwise locked a wheel... Have fun with your K! They are truly fantastic bikes. I took mine out last weekend, what a rush. :-) I need to replace swing arm bearings and a few other things like the timing chain, so stick around if you are interested in learning some more. :-) Take care out there!

[@mrmattlakin]

informative and genuinely funny

[@gmcevoy]

Thank you, Matt!

[@altecada]

Great Vid man. I hope to put some time aside to do this. What tool was that you used on the butterfly adjustment. Bike sounded amazing after you did it and got it all synced up. Awesome!

[@gmcevoy]

Hi! Thanks for the encouraging comment! It is much appreciated. The tool I use is "Carb Tune Pro 4". Absolutely indispensable to get the job done. Not only does it sound better, but it idles and runs as it should, too. :-) I definitely have to replace the breather pipe at the rear of the TB.

[@ctjanney]

Just picked up a K1200RS that has sat for a few years. Perfect video for this project. What fluid are you using in the ultrasonic cleaner?

[@gmcevoy]

Fantastic winter project! You will love it, come Spring. I use Sonixlab Tek34. Works superbly well with carburetters and alloy parts, generally speaking.

[@waltercornell972]

Geoffrey, Do you have the part# for the Breather tube? I am having problems finding it. Thanks

[@gmcevoy]

Hi Walter. There are a couple of variants I believe, one of them being part number 11151465009. You might want to double-check with a BMW dealer.

[@ilisten2musik]

Thanks, man

[@williamfisk4841]

Can you don a video on a K1200S...Thanks

[@gmcevoy]

Hi William. Sadly, I do not own a K1200S. If such a bike rolls into the workshop, I will definitely be making a video about it. In the meantime, thank you for stopping by!

[@TheCrszx777]

Obrigado Saudações São Paulo - Brasil

[@gmcevoy]

Você é muito bem-vindo

[@bennydhondt4691]

I'm looking for a video on changing the clutch. Because my k1200rs has now got 156000 km on it an its ratteling more than a bit, some say to me its a very big job and not easy at all, any comments?? I can do general maintenance and so butt not been working much on this type of engines, mostly like cb750, kawa z1000, suzuki 650,, this engine intriges me tho,haha. Bought the bike like 2,5y ago with a good 100000km on it so been driving it daily, maybe i will look to do a steering mod like the sls something like that,butt find it expensive to buy. Maybe look to get it done and made by a frend butt will need different lines for the brake and clutch i thingk. Any vids on that maybe?? Thx in advance BennyBike (Belguim) thx for this one helped me,out allot!!!

[@gmcevoy]

Thank you for stopping by, Benny! I don't have a video about changing the clutch yet, sadly. It is a big job indeed. I would like to do it on mine anyway, because I have to change swing arm bearings and most of the parts that need to come off for a clutch replacement will have to come off while changing the bearings. I don't mind going the extra mile and doing the clutch as well. Hopefully I will manage to do that before this coming Spring. The handling of my bike was getting weird, so I did not ride much in 2021. I didn't even go through a full tank of petrol. Anyway, thank you for stopping by and letting me know that my video has been useful to you. Maybe we will be able to meet and go for a ride together some day, I am in Belgium as well! Take care!

[@bennydhondt4691]

@@gmcevoy haha really. Maybe we do the 2 bikes together

[@vladimir4093]

Hello, could you please help me on that "butterfly" TB adjusting? I didnt find that on the service manual. And I am thinking if I will be able to adjust it with only two connectors, like I used to do synchronising 4cyl. Carburettors? Thank You in advance. A great vid, would be easier for me if I would've found this vid earlier. But now I already changed the clutch by myself in the garage laying on the ground:D

[@gmcevoy]

Hello Vladimir, To properly adjust the TB's, you need to first adjust the throttle cables properly (making sure they operate freely as they should of course). Then screw the first TB balancing screw fully in (on cylinder 1), then back it out one and a half turn. Don't touch that one any more, as it is the reference for the three others. You will definitely need a four tube or gauge balancing tool, as the method used here is different to that of most Japanese bikes, where carbs are synced in pairs With the tool hooked up, start the engine and let it warm up to normal operating temperature. I usually wait until the cooling fans kick in. When the fans turn off, start adjusting balancing screw on cyl 2, using cyl 1 as your reference. When you have synced that one, readjust idle speed to the indicated speed in the manual. Fine-tune sync in between 2 and 1, re-adjust idle. Blip the throttle once or twice, and re-check. Then sync cyl 3 to 1 and 2, re-adjust idle speed etc..., and lastly sync cyl 4, and make a final idle speed adjustment to what it is supposed to be. Blip the throttle once or twice, check that they are all within spec, and hey presto, you have just synced TB's. At least, that is how I did it, and it worked great. Do make sure there are no air intakes in the breather system, otherwise you will be wasting your time. I hope this helps! Have fun! 🙂

[@vladimir4093]

@@gmcevoy thanks a lot. Did you find it on the manual somewhere?) Tb balancing are those bolts for flat screwdriver copper colour?

[@gmcevoy]

​@@vladimir4093 The copper coloured ones, yes. Don't mess around with the other ones, as they are set at the factory, and any attempt to adjust those will render the TB ramp useless. I honestly cannot remember from whom I got the info, but it worked well.

[@MartinRodriguez-ew3cp]

Excelente video muy detallado y un servicio muy a fondo y profesional que le diste a la motocicleta Yo tengo una BMW K1200 Rs modelo 2002 Y tengo algunos problemas con ella Saludos desde México

[@gmcevoy]

Hola Martin! Muchas gracias por tu comentario! Estoy agradecido por sus amables palabras. Espero que encuentre el origen de sus problemas. Si no, puede que pueda ayudar. Tengo un nivel interesante en Patreon, donde me convierto en su asistente personal. ¿Quizás te interesaría probarlo? Saludos cordiales.

[@MartinRodriguez-ew3cp]

Hola Geoffrey Y como es eso del asistente personal por parte de Parteon?

[@MartinRodriguez-ew3cp]

Perdón...por el Patreon?

[@gmcevoy]

Hola Martín, Para mí es una forma de ayudar a las personas que lo necesitan, poniendo mis conocimientos a su servicio. Ayudo a otros a resolver sus problemas mecánicos para vivir. Soy un mecánico profesional y esta página de Patreon me permite ayudar a personas de cualquier parte del mundo. También ayudo a otros a entender la mecánica dándoles lecciones. Puedes encontrar más información aquí: www.patreon.com/mcevoy

[@agustinusrachmiyono1721]

dear sir mc evoy, I want to remove the electric power to the integral brake system compressor on my 2001 k1200rs motorbike. because there are frequent errors and I want to just make a manual brake system. I am in Indonesia .

[@gmcevoy]

Hello there. I you sure that is a good idea? It is a useful system. What's wrong with it?

[@DownSouthable]

I hate to say it but it looks like you may have a partially blown head gasket. Coolant and oil makes that grey goop

[@gmcevoy]

I thought that as well, and have kept a close eye on the situation. After 1500 kms, fresh coolant is still nice and clean. I think this sludge is simply a result of neglect. Well, I surely hope so at any rate, otherwise I will have to produce a video about changing the head gasket! Haha.

[@RNcooley]

at 2:31 you mention buying anew part a bots something? what is that part exactly?

[@gmcevoy]

Yes, the breather tube number 11151465009. I should have bought one instead of fixing this one, as it is quite a pain to get access to. So far it has held well, but I know that it will need replacing in the future. Thank you for watching, I hope you enjoy your K!

[@AustinSkyeWellness]

What was the modification to the oil filter tool? You referenced it, but not what it was

[@gmcevoy]

Indeed. If you look closely at around 11:17 you can see that I welded a length of 22 mm cold rolled steel square bar to it. This to have better leverage on filters which are often found too tight to remove otherwise. The 3/8" square drive had rounded off after just a few uses.

[@mariuszmarkiewicz9100]

Thx for video

[@kprus5096]

Dear Geoffrey, Thank you for the amazingly detailed video, for such an awesome motorcycle that I absolutely love. I have two issues with my K1200RS that I would like to ask your expert opinion on. (Sorry if the question is basic, I am not a mechanic) First, I recently had my clutch and driveshaft replaced, and since then after the engine gets warm, getting into neutral is very difficult, I have to tap on the clutch pedal just the right way to do it. Immediately when I turn off my engine, the clutch smoothly goes into neutral. What could be the issue? Second, I have had a perpetual oil leak on the side of what I think is the intermediate housing, I think. Right side of the bike, the exposed metal part, which is what I think has the clutch inside. The leak looks barely like a mist, and when I wipe it, takes a couple weeks to return to anything noticeable. Should I be concerned? Thanks again, and sorry if the questions are basic.

[@gmcevoy]

Hi there! Thank you for your kind words, they are truly appreciated. There are no basic questions, just questions, which I am always happy to answer if I can. First thing you will want to check regarding your shifting issue is that the oil level (and oil viscosity of course) in the gearbox is correct. If not, it could well be the source of your problem. Also, what mileage does your bike have? The oil leak that you have would likely come from the rear crankshaft oil seal or gearbox input shaft seal, which should have been changed during the clutch replacement operation. It is one of those "while you are at it" jobs which only add half an hour labor at most and a couple of inexpensive parts. Have these oil seals been changed while the gearbox was out? I think my clutch has started to slip, so I would like to change it this Winter, along with the timing chains which are due. I also have to replace the fork oil seals on my Triumph Bonneville, and some body work to do on my Pinzgauer. So many projects, so little time! :-) Stay tuned for more, and feel free to reach out whenever you have questions. :-) Take care.

[@kprus5096]

@@gmcevoy Thank you for the quick reply Geoffrey! My bike has great millage, only 28,000. (23,000 when I bought it). I can ask the shop about whether the seal was changed, I think it was. The oil changed help a little, but neutral still is tough to get to. Any other ideas? Also, just the day before doing my oil change, I left my bike out in a heavy rain (hasn't been an issue before), and when I started it up in the morning, both the ABS lights were intermittently blinking, left then right. I checked the bread fluid and it was low, so I added some more. I thought that would solve the issue, but the lights are still blinking back and forth. I read that flushing the break fluid might solve this. Any idea? (I also do not know where to start a flush like that). Last, would you recommend putting 3M injector cleaner in the fuel to help clean out the system? I use it on my car with good success. Thank you again for the help. My nearest dealership is two hours away, so your advice is greatly appreciated.

[@jackywu956]

It's really a great video. It took a great effort on filming. Thank you so much! I like to do some maintenance myself. Will you be able to support me if any difficulty I may have? Thanks and cheers!

[@gmcevoy]

Thank you Jacky, I highly appreciate your feedback! I will of course assist you in any way that I can, for any simple questions that you may have. Just let me know! If you prefer to have unlimited support, then you can become one of my Co-Directors on Patreon, www.patreon.com/mcevoy That grants you access to pretty much anything you want, mechanically related. Like having your personal mechanic by your side at all times. :-) Get your questions answered, and learn new skills! I am highly looking forward to seeing you there! Speak soon, in any case. Kindest regards, Geoffrey McEvoy

[@robon121]

Hello, can I pour CASTROL Syntrax Limited Slip 75W140 into the gearbox ???

[@gmcevoy]

Hello! I would not personally recommend using that oil in this gearbox. SAE90 hypoid gear oil or equivalent is the one that you need. I use Castrol Classic EP90, and it seems to be fine. You could also use Castrol Axle EPX90, I suppose, although I have not tried that one specifically. Syntrax LS 75W140 has been homologated for use in the LSD final drives of BMW M cars, and Mercedes-Benz AMG's. The viscosity does not correspond to your K's requirements. I hope this helps! Thank you for watching!

[@d2nt3]

That milky stuff is probably because the bike wasnt ridden long and hard enough. Oil condensation.

[@gmcevoy]

Most likely indeed. I did put it through its paces last Summer, after I had finished this mega-service intervention. :-) I'll check on it before Spring, and replace that breather tube with a new one.

[@agustinusrachmiyono1721]

I hope you can help show me the power socket that goes to the brake compressor. thank you very much, greetings from me, agustinus rachmiyono.

[@gmcevoy]

I think it is under the tank, but I am not sure. I would have to check.

[@fabzrustrider9838]

Great informative video thank you.💯

[@gmcevoy]

Many thanks for your positive feedback!

[@robon121]

You poured motorcycle or car oil ??

[@gmcevoy]

Castrol Classic EP90 is a hypoid gear oil. It is used in cars, and meets the requirements for this gearbox. So far, it works great. Here is a link to the exact product. www.louis.eu/artikel/castrol-transmission-oil-ep90-classic-1-litre/10038154

[@conordawson2649]

Thank you man!! How much would a service exactly like this cost? Just curious. Trying to gauge

[@gmcevoy]

Hi Conor. Difficult to say. I would expect to pay anywhere upwards of 400€. It depends which parts actually need replacing or not, and the hourly rate of the mechanic (and of course his level of skill). For example, if some shims are required to adjust valve clearance, you are looking at roughly 30€ a piece. There are 16 of them...

[@conordawson2649]

@@gmcevoy intersecting. Good point though. I wish I had a professional BMW mechanic friend 😅😅 I love videos like this but the only downside is I can’t ask you questions along the way. I can pause, rewind, google search things. But nothing like learning hands on. Thanks for making these videos man!

[@gmcevoy]

@@conordawson2649 Well, in a way, you can. I try to answer to as many comments as I can, so feel free to write your questions down, make a list, and I will definitely help if I can. Thanks for sticking around, in any case. I will have to replace the clutch soon, and timing chains as well. Two big interventions that I have been putting off long enough now...

[@conordawson2649]

@@gmcevoy well I definitely really truly appreciate that man. The previous owner removed the ABS system from my k1200rs. The front brake works normally and has fluid in the reservoir near the handlebars. But for some reason the rear reservoir under the seat is empty. But the rear brake is working. I’m wondering if somehow they redirected the fluid so that it doesn’t have to pass through the reservoir? Or maybe it needs filling and it just mechanically braking with no fluid? I wish I could send you pictures on here to show you. Do you think I should just try and fill the reservoir and see what happens? They did a bunch of other stupid stuff like grind off part the of the rear sub-frame that holds the tail light unit, snip a bunch of wires, etc. alll of this to use it on the track like 2 times. Needless damage to a beautiful bike in my opinion, but I got it for free. So I ordered a new rear sun-frame, and a complete wiring harness off eBay. I think I can manage to figure that out in time. But the rear reservoir thing is what’s confusing me. Any help on that would be appreciated ! Sorry for the enormous message!!

[@gmcevoy]

@@conordawson2649 Ah, shame it suffered like that. Good to know it is in your caring hands now. If the brake fluid level is low, the first thing you want to do is check the wear of the brake pads. It is a closed system, so as the pads wear, the brake caliper piston comes out a little more to compensate for the loss of pad thickness. So the brake fluid in the reservoir goes down. If your pads are fine, then there might be a fluid loss somewhere, which is abnormal and should be tracked down asap. Strange idea to get rid of the ABS. It saved my ass more than once, I can tell you that. It is a heavy bike after all... So, take a look at your brake pads first, and take it from there.

[@The73Reaper]

Where?

[@orion000]

Superb!

[@robon121]

Hello, is there any screw to adjust the idle speed on the carburetor ??

[@gmcevoy]

Hi Robon! This bike is fuel injected, and doesn't have carburetters. It does have balancing screws on the throttle bodies however. They are those brass screws, positioned on each throttle body. The procedure is showed near the end of the video, near the 18:25 mark. You do need a proper balancing tool to get it right. The idle speed itself is regulated by an electronic stepper motor. Have fun! :-)

[@Roberta_Esposito]

😹😹😹😹

[@marianpazdzioch7300]

Nice video. Hello from Poland

[@gmcevoy]

Thank you Marian!

[@chrishapp4742]

"A performance air filter." - Because the BMW air filter is $85.

[@gmcevoy]

Hahaha. Actually, a Mahle replacement is roughly 30€. I can't remember what I paid for the K&N, but I am pretty sure it came with in the 60€ mark. Thing is, I won't be buying a new filter ever again after this one, so it pays for itself after the second due filter change.

[@SinnerSince1962]

Sorry, but this bike has been very poorly maintained over it's life. I would bet that was the original oil filter on that bike, especially since the o-ring stuck and pulled off the filter. This reminds me that one must be VERY careful when purchasing one of these K bikes. If the seller doesn't have answers, expect that it hasn't been done. And that coolant reservoir?? Well, enough said.

[@gmcevoy]

Absolutely. One of the main reasons this one was so cheap. In fact, it was given to me in part exchange for a job I did. I would suspect that it was serviced in a BMW dealership at least during the warranty period. After that, nobody knows. :-) So it fell into the right hands, I'd say. :-)

[@SinnerSince1962]

@@gmcevoy Nice Geoffrey! The price was right and with your training and experience, it will have many, many more miles ahead of it. Hope you still have it.

[@gmcevoy]

@@SinnerSince1962 I certainly do. I haven't had a decent opportunity to ride it this Summer, sadly. I would like to recondition the swingarm bearings, and especially change the timing chain this Winter. It's a brilliant bike, I really like it. Definitely worth the trouble, and apparently it has a decent following as well. Do you own one too?

[@T.S.-eo7my]

+1 When the contents of the coolant recovery tank looks like that, the insides of the radiator end tanks are even worse. 💡