Candle Making: Scent: 15 secrets you will love. More Fragrance, Faster.

[@janeeshakorale2887]

Hi there, thank you for this very informative video! I just had a couple of clarifications if you have the time: 1) what is that item you used to make the plug? 2) if I understood correctly, in your process, you heated the soy wax, vybar, colour and 2% EO for the plug. once it was wicked, you poured in heated 6% of just EO? (or did this fill also include wax as well?). Thank you in advance!

[@GEOsustainable]

I am glad you like. I used a measuring cup, of about 1/2 cup, to mimic how large candle makers make a plug. What I attempted to show was making one pound of soy wax and adding 1 teaspoon of Vybar. To that I added 2% EO for the plug and 6% EO for the fill. Each batch was heated to only 130 F. A wax melt pool gets to only 140 F, so staying below that will ensure your customer is the first to smell the activated scent. Now you got 16 secrets.

[@janeeshakorale2887]

@@GEOsustainable Wow! thank you so much for that extra secret! Greatly appreciate it! also, will this work with Fragrance oils as well? and may I also ask the material of the measuring cup?

[@GEOsustainable]

@@janeeshakorale2887 Yes, it will work with FO just as easy. I used a plastic measuring cup, with smooth sides and bottom. I used something that will freeze out easy, as I put the plug in the freezer to get it out. Glass with smooth sides will also work the same way. Big candle makers use Aluminum molds for the plug, and freeze them out also. Now, you have 17 secrets. I may need to do another video as you got me thinking, lol.

[@janeeshakorale2887]

@@GEOsustainable keeps getting better, thank you so much! these are great, cant wait for more videos

[@92DarkFairy]

Hi Martin, thank you for your video! There's on thing I struggle with right now, maybe you find the time to answer me and give me your opinion on it. In fact it's about curing times. The "candle youtubers" are saying that you need to cure vegetable oil waxes, especially soy, for at least several days, best up to two weeks. The reasons for that is supposed to be a better hot throw and more importanly that those types of waxes need this time to really harden up. If you burn test them earlier, the chosen wick could be to small later one, when the wax has become harder. Because you've tested your candle after 48 hours, I would like to know what you're thinking about it and maybe if you know how long bigger companies let their natural candles cure before burn testing them. I would really appreciate if you would answer me. Thanks in advance and again, thank you for your videos.

[@GEOsustainable]

Great question. I should talk more about equilibration, as I do mention it a couple of times in my videos. Yes, let your candles cool a couple of days. Wax is like a thermal sink, it holds heat a long time. I have no idea if it improves scent throw, but after curing, the scent throw will be all is is going to be. I have never heard about the 2 weeks thing, but you can discover that if you think. I challenge anyone to give me evidence it is needed for that long. The big candle makers cure 2 days, and when sending to me for testing, I always let them sit in the lab for 2 days after being shipped. For me, it is all about equilibration of the candle, insuring a temperature stable candle throughout.

[@rsjyss]

Great information that would take many many years to figure out, thank you. Question, your last video and resource material states that the wick smoldering should only be 10 seconds after its huffed or its a fail. At 31:05 you huffed yours and at 31:26 visible smoke stopped. That being said, how would you fix this? Less burn time (smaller carbon build up)? Smaller wicks? Increased EO% to mimic a smaller wick? Thank you in advance for your answer.

[@GEOsustainable]

Yes, glad you caught that. The wick I used was one without treatment. My mistake, I grabbed the wrong one when I made the candle. However, in the 'dry burn' test, the wick I treated did extinguish in 4 secs. You will just have to believe me in this. The rigors of video production, yikes. And I need to say that I suppose in the description. To answer your question, if a wick does continue to smolder, it is because of 2 things. You are correct in reducing the carbon ball, as it is a stove for wax to continue to vapor. The second possible reason is the wick is too large for the container and is heating the wax enough to be near 'ignition point' at the wick, if that makes sense.

[@henriettamendes7307]

Great video thank you so much. Your looking great

[@GEOsustainable]

I am so glad you like. Thank you.

[@denitabass9596]

Hi can you tell me how long are you letting the plug sit in the 4-ounce measuring cup before you put it in the freezer to remove it? Does it need to sit for 48 hrs. also to equilibrate like you said you allowed the other wax you mentioned in the video? How long do you leave it in the freezer before removing also? In the video, you mentioned that a rapid cool-down helps the scent. Can you explain when and how the rapid cool down was taking place in the video? Thank You very much.

[@GEOsustainable]

You can put the plug in the freezer as soon as you want. BUT ONLY ONE. Putting too many will overwhelm your freezer and nothing will freeze. It only takes an hour to freeze the plug so it pops out. The less you heat the wax, the faster it cools. I pass along a lot of information beyond the scope of the project at hand. Rapid cooling down must take place within 3 steps of the pour to the freezer, or half the red lights in the world will turn green. Just do what comes easy and fun. These are tips and tricks. The details are yours to discover and use. I have a series on candles that may answer more of your questions. Thanks for watching.

[@denitabass9596]

@@GEOsustainable Thank You for replying. I have thoroughly watched all ur candle videos but sometimes things are not always clear into the videos. Thanks for sharing the information and ur expertise that you have shared in the past.

[@laurenk1082]

Hello, thank you for sharing this information! The science behind candles is fascinating and the way you explain it all helps connect the dots for us layman. A few questions - are you using a Libby 8.5oz (fill volume) vessel? If so, what wick did you use or would you recommend? I’ve been using these and find them incredible difficult to properly wick. Have been Double wicking, but run in to problems with container temperature every time. In the video, I noted the carbon ball size and length of ember glow time. I understand that testing for safety was not the point of this particular video, I’m just curious if you would have failed the candle from a safety perspective because of that behavior? As a new candle maker I’m trying to train my mind to identify those safety qualities in every video I watch. Appreciate any additional insight you have and am looking forward to more of these types of videos!

[@GEOsustainable]

Thank you for your comments, and observations. I am not sure what size it is, yes, it is Libbey, the only glass I use. I am not sure what wick size I used, likely about an 18 ply. I would have failed the candle for ember glow time. I treat my own wick, and I am not sure why this one embered. Perhaps, I grabbed the un-treated ones. This is why proper mordant is so important. Once it has proper mordant, the wick will not ember so long. Stay tuned for more, as I am working on a new studio for video production.

[@laurenk1082]

@@GEOsustainable Thank you!!

[@GEOsustainable]

Not sure I answered your question. Keep your wicks small and move them closer together away from the edge. That is about all I can say without seeing the candle.

[@babyg2cc2]

I had given up on Golden Brands 444; however, after finding you. I want to give it another shot. If I heat soy wax to 135 and put the FO right after, do I have to stir for two minutes before pouring into glass? What method do you think would work best for this wax? 😊

[@GEOsustainable]

Yes, just as you laid out. Perfect.

[@babyg2cc2]

@@GEOsustainable would this method also work for coconut apricot wax? I do have vybar 260. At what temperature should I add it. Thank you so much for the quick response.

[@babyg2cc2]

I used the double boiler method to heat Coconut Apricot wax just until it melted. I added 7% FO, some vybar 260, then I poured. The next day the it was execively sweating. What could have caused this? I had also made another candle where I heated to 200 and added FO right away, but that one has zero sweating 😓

[@MiMi-gm1js]

Whoah. Watching this now while commenting. I've heard from others that they add 10% coconut oil for a better hot throw, is this true? Thank you.

[@GEOsustainable]

Depending on the scent I would think. Coconut wax smells like...the scent has to sit on it. A good way to test it to make a coconut oil candle, and does the flame improve over wax? A thin oil added to wax will of course soften it, yielding a strong cold throw. Lighting it volitalizes it and adds to this. So, maybe yes. I am not a scent guy other than to say I like a very minute, barely noticeable, light scent for any candle. And you give me another candle video idea.

[@MiMi-gm1js]

@@GEOsustainable thank you for this explanation. Looking forward to all your videos

[@gerickking1020]

What happens to the Vybar if added at high temperatures?

[@GEOsustainable]

A big red L suddenly appears on your forehead, and you burn the polymer Vibar, lower the energy content of the wax, volatilize your scent, and overheat your jar. Other than that, not really anything. Thanks for watching. A great question. Stay tuned for more on scent.

[@angelartistic3056]

LOL@@GEOsustainable