Get your M35 in gear (without grinding)!😄

[@StumpyVanLife]

Good video with good information. Another option when coming to a stop to get back in to 1st is called rolling into gear. Figure out the exact speed 1st gear is at an idle or crawl. Probably around 2 mph. When coming to a stop be in neutral with clutch engaged (pedal up) then as you get down to 2mph quickly clutch and shift into 1st gear. Should fall right into 1st , you can even do this without using the clutch. If you get the speed just right it will fall right in, then push in the clutch and stop.

[@makerwright]

Actually, a much better way to stop the input and counter shaft is to just "nudge" the synchro as if you're going down into 3rd gear. No need to go past the synchro detent and fully into 3rd gear, you just have to pull the shifter toward 3rd gear enough for the brake cone on the synchro to make solid contact with the shoulder on 3rd gear. That'll stop the internals from spinning. After that little bump of the synchro you can go right into 1st/R with no grinding. Gotta remember, just as we saw in your vid @ 3:28, many Spicer 3053A's are reluctant to go into 2nd even with a little forward momentum as it is, let alone at a dead stop.

[@tacticalrepair]

Yeah I usually don't have that issue with it. It shifts very smooth even when really getting on it. I chocked it up to the "only happens when you're filming it" curse.😄

[@MP-io7yj]

That's how I do mine to some times it's easier to throw it in 3rd then do the 1 and reverse. I use my truck to pull cattle trailer . Goose neck flat bed trailer and even my fifth wheel camper to the lake.makes for a good conversation peace at the lake. I enjoy talking to all the veterans that stop and talk.

[@nickslistm246]

I shift all my 5 tons that same way, makes a big difference on the older more worn transmissions.

[@Level_No_Curve]

Wow i had these same problems until i figured all this out from a little trial and error. Everything in this video is great info

[@Blitzomenz]

That looks like a ford 1100 tractor. I have the exact same tractor with a 930A mower deck. It mows so much on such a small amount of diesel.

[@tacticalrepair]

1220, yes sir!

[@johndowe7003]

Yeah it's a good tractor super reliable

[@majmikecalnan]

Hi Garrett: I hope this post finds you well. I know you've had a rough go for the past while. Keep posting your wisdom for all of us!! I have a clutch/tranny question for you. My transmission has recently started making an odd noise. In fifth, if I lift my foot off the accelerator, I get a rapid tapping noise. When I add a little power it goes away, If I push in the clutch the noise also goes away. This noise doesn't happen in any other gear. I changed the synchronisers last summer. Cheers! Mike in the Great White North!🥶🥶🍁🍁👍

[@tacticalrepair]

Hard to say what that is for sure. My best guess would be throwout bearing failing or maybe one of the springs in the clutch disk broke. Almost certainly something in the clutch area though. Thanks for the kind words!

[@majmikecalnan]

@@tacticalrepair Thanks for the wisdom! I'll start narrowing it down. Odd that it only happens in 5th gear when I take the load off. I thought it was a bolt on one of the 'U' joints backing out but they are all tight. Time for the bore scope!😁👍

[@tacticalrepair]

@@majmikecalnan like I said, hard to say what it is. Could indeed be something inside the transmission, like a broken tooth on one of the gears or a bearing failing, but without hearing it in person I can't help you much.

[@adavis6894]

Hey Garrett ,what I have alway's done is use shell spirax tran oil that's yellow metal safe and when I start my 71 m35a2 I pull the throttle out to 900 rpm and put the transfer case in neutral and usually put it in 3rd gear that pulls all the oil up and gets everything lubed up while it's warming up ,I don't have any problems with gear grind or shifting issues in any gear ,I let mine warm up for about 30 min ,thanks for the video

[@makerwright]

So... with the truck running, standing still, clutch engaged to flywheel, shifter in neutral, the input, countershaft, and countershaft 1st gear are spinning at several hundred RPM. Meanwhile, 1st gear, which is splined directly to the mainshaft, is sitting dead still. No gear oil, Spirax or not, is going to magically yank that heavy dead weight first gear up to speed, making those straight-cut, non-synchronized gears align, and mesh without the tips bobbling (grinding). In that instance, the only thing that makes those gears match speed so they can mesh without grinding is slowing/stopping the countershaft via ~ 5 seconds with the clutch mashed in, and/or synchro braking. IF... you bring your truck into 1st while you're coming to a stop, put your transfer in neutral, and use the transfer to engage the drive line when it's time to go, then you won't have any grinding because the 1st gears are already meshed.

[@adavis6894]

@@makerwright this is what I have done for several years and it works great ,just make sure the transfer case is in neutral and put it in any gear even 5th it will pull the oil up and distribute it and then when it warms up take the transfer case out of neutral and engage in either high or low and go you try it and see if it doesn't go into ALL gears without grinding

[@Joseywales414]

Thanks so much, wished I had been doing this sooner. Truck running o.k. But don’t know how much damage I could have done over time? But tried to never force the gears to bad though.

[@jamesswanson1139]

Thanks I have been trying to find out what I was doing wrong. Where are you close to?

[@tacticalrepair]

When I'm in the states I'm near Ft. Polk. Currently I'm in Korea.

[@dieselwrench3621]

Beautiful m35 👍 that doesn’t sound like an old multi fuel engine sounds like a Cummins

[@tacticalrepair]

It is.

[@HisWayHomestead]

that's a great tip!!

[@poboyzauto1466]

Awesome thanks

[@AMANIIX]

Thanks for the video. Please can you tell me what the illuminated gauge is at the top?

[@tacticalrepair]

That's my exhaust gas temperature. Important to know so you don't melt pistons.

[@michaelsluder-jc2xy]

Any suggestions on the m151 Jeep? If I don't shift real slow mine wants to grind in third and fourth when shifting up, but not downshifting

[@tacticalrepair]

Look for a replacement transmission. Your synchronizers are worn out. A lot of these transmissions are still floating around for real cheap prices.

[@gregvogel165]

What is your opinion on the different tires and options . Brands , size , wheels , ect . I'm so torn on which direction to take. Maybe a video on this . I can't find any others

[@tacticalrepair]

I like 11.00r20 Goodyear G177s myself. I think tires larger than 12.00r20 or 365r20 are too big for the trucks. Puts a lot of strain on everything. Breaks brake parts, transfer cases, wheel bearings, transmissions.

[@hummerguy]

What do you think about starting in low 2nd? I always start in first but I heard a lot of guys start in low 2nd

[@tacticalrepair]

It's a great way to shear the woodruff key that keeps 2nd from spinning on the mainshaft. Ends up destroying both the gear and the shaft.

[@hummerguy]

@@tacticalrepair Yea, I thought that couldn't be good. Btw, do you know anyone that makes overdrive currently?

[@tacticalrepair]

Nope. Nobody is making the overdrive kits right now.

[@snowwhite7677]

Is there any other transmissions you can use on the Multifuel & M35?

[@tacticalrepair]

Yes but nothing that is a simple bolt in swap without modifications.

[@BertMackFilm]

Clutch? I threw that pedal out and just start it on low first each time.

[@cliffschannel8036]

What re your thoughts on starting in second rather than first

[@tacticalrepair]

Don't do it unless you want to repair or replace your transmission.

[@richardjclmearls8148]

What’s you thoughts about double clutching through the gears? I tend to do this with mine and it shift smooth every time.

[@tacticalrepair]

If it works for you it's fine. I've never needed to. I either shift them normally or float the gears.

[@makerwright]

You may not have to double clutch and put your throw-out bearing and pressure plate through all that extra work... Instead of double-clutching, just for grins, try slowing down your shifts a bit by letting the shifter dwell in neutral for 1/2 second more between shifts. This will give the internals a bit more time to slow down, allowing the synchros to easily overcome the inertia, so the gears will be well in sync when you make the shift. Given the quirks of the 3053A, you may still have to double-clutch to make smooth shifts from 1-2, especially if you've rapped up the RPM in 1st gear a little too much (Sounds really slow, but 1200 RPM in 1st gear is plenty. Any more and you're likely to struggle a bit getting it into 2nd).

[@richardjclmearls8148]

@@makerwright good to know! Thanks

[@makerwright]

@@richardjclmearls8148 You're welcome... Double-clutching, whether it's needed or not, means you obviously care about the transmission, and that's awesome. I've seen many folks new to the deuce, and those supposedly expereinced, who expect the 3053A to respond like a slick, short-throw car transmission because that's what they've driven and known. As a result, you'll see alot of white-knuckle yankin, grindin, and gear jammin. Many old truck transmissions tend to shift much, much smoother if we're calm, unrushed and light-handed. As a result, you're likely to pick up road speed just as fast, if not faster, and with far less wear to the truck.

[@cliffschannel8036]

New Deuce owner, going to change trans oil.......need help on transfer case....do I need to change the transfer case also? If so how do I do that’s? Best oil to use in transfer case?

[@tacticalrepair]

80w90. Drain plug is on the bottom driver side, fill plug is on passenger side.

[@deme7063]

Diesel Creek got me over here

[@tacticalrepair]

Love that guy!

[@jeffreybalcita7846]

Sir i need steering wheel for m35..do you have any extra thank you

[@tacticalrepair]

Www.bigmikesmotorpool.com has them brand new.

[@phinex60]

Do you have a video on replacement and bleeding the injectors?

[@tacticalrepair]

Not specifically. It's very simple though. Two 9/16" hold down bolts, the injection line, and the return lines. No complicated secrets to it.

[@phinex60]

@@tacticalrepair I've heard you don't tighten the injectors fully down. You have someone in the cab and turn over the motor to bleed them then tighten. Is that the way to bleed the injectors or is there an easier safer way?

[@tacticalrepair]

@@phinex60 There is absolutely no need to bleed injectors on these engines. They are a bypass type injector, and all the air goes right out through the injector return lines. You can literally install a new hydraulic head, all new injection lines, and all new injectors, then turn your master power switch on, open the bleed screw on your fuel filter assembly until all your air is out of the filters, close the bleed screw, let the electric pump run for two more minutes, and then fire it up with just a few turns of the engine. In no case have I ever, ever needed to bleed injectors on a multifuel engine.

[@aburawadaljuaid3472]

Hi, I would like to ask if can I use 366 gasoline engine with M35 truck? Can the Axles stand the high number of Rpm?

[@aburawadaljuaid3472]

I would like to use 366 engine with its gear too.

[@tacticalrepair]

Yes you can. No problem.

[@aburawadaljuaid3472]

Thanks 🌹

[@joesamojla5319]

Got your name from Diesel creek

[@tacticalrepair]

Appreciate the sub! I was watching his video and was surprised myself!