Gettin' All Fired Up: Cabin's Wood Stove 1st Test

After the storm video, it was time to go back to a more low-key topic, the cabin. In the 13th installment of my Cabin Fixer Upper Series, I make preparations to fire up the old wood stove for the first time after making a heat shield for the wall behind it. The results were not quite as expected.
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[@raymurphyii]

Slim, you need a bigger fire in the firebox as another commenter pointed out. These old stoves used a lot of wood fuel to get going, but were designed to keep that fire, once lit well, going for many, many hours. Like LatteLover PT said below, get it going by opening everything up and then start it cooling down by closing the venting down bit by bit until you have a steady heat. They take BUNCH of wood to get going, but very little thereafter. Do your fire building by layering the kindling and small wood and then counter stack bigger logs on top until the stove is full, then light it. You'll be boiling water in no time!

[@edavery2998]

My advice exactly. You did well, Slim, in starting light and low burn, but fill the box and let it rip and you'll be opening windows...

[@williamdevore8861]

We use to heat with a wood burning stove. Load it up as stated, open it up, get the fire roaring, then throttle it back. It will run you out of that cabin. At night right before bed, load it to the max and throttle it down, it will burn all night long. Best to never let the coals go completely out, but keep it stoked.

[@philjy1683]

@@edavery2998 I agree. That whole bundle of wood needed to go in all at once. Get it real hot fast and then adjust in intake for a long burn. It would help to have a temperature gauge on the stove.

[@ShandeleReynolds]

Yep

[@deborahchesser7375]

@@williamdevore8861 back when people heated with wood stoves they often never went out for months,my granny had a coal stove that used stoker size coal and a conveyor system to steadily feed it. They’d put 2-3 tons in the basement and burn that for months. Not the cleanest way to heat but pretty damn consistent for the time.

[@SlimPotatohead]

Note from Slim: To reduce repeat comments, here's a few responses: 1. I need to use more wood at first fire-up. Thanks, noted 2. I need a hearth (platform) underneath. Yes, in time, but this is only a test. I need to establish the footprint of the final stove before I make a hearth 3. MISTAKE: It was a Carbon Monoxide Alarm (CO) and NOT a Carbon Dioxide (CO2) alarm. I goofed! 4. Fan circulation will happen later when electrical is finished. 5. Yes I know, heat rises, that's why I built the loft! It wasn't that warm up there however. 6. Hardwoods are more efficient. Yes, but I will only be using pine, poplar and birch, as I must insist on harvesting only local deadfall. Remember, this was a FIRST TEST ONLY, many improvements to follow. Thanks for so many great responses. It all helps. Thanks! SP

[@WilliamAndrewPhilipBodie]

Thanks for so many great videos. Moin from North Germany 😀

[@mikeg6185]

After seeing the video 1. That stove is huge. You need alot of wood to get some heat off it. 2. You should enclose the stove with the sheet metal. That might keep the heat in too. Always look forward to your latest post.

[@timmunro3679]

Add your little thermocouple fan from the camper for a little air movement while you wait on the electrics.

[@innescoull7061]

You film it we will watch it slim

[@cooperpabis4642]

We have a 100+ ben franklin type stove. Stoves all are different & you are new to this one, you will learn it & all the comment section tips are good. I think insulating everywhere is going to be better/more efficient , especially the loft & ceiling. You are still just in the first parts of the project. It is coming along so good.

[@jtsterry]

Hi Slim: I am mid 70's and have burned wood all my life in many different types of wood stoves. Just by looking at your stove I can tell you ,it will not be an issue heating your cabin. Get a good bed of coals and load up the stove. When it gets going good close the damper. Since that stove is not air tight, (like mine) I would completely close the air intake and gradually open slightly until you get the desired air flow with damper closed At night I completely shut the air off and damper closed. I still have heat and fire next morning. It's just a learning process . You will love the stove ! AND you will enjoy cooking on it as well !

[@wanjockey]

Absolutely, build up the fire and close the damper down. letting in the cold air pushes the heat out the chimney instead of allowing it to heat the stove.

[@Kittycat822]

By adding some stone or tile under the stove it will be added safety and radiate heat. Modern stoves have fire bricks in them and more efficiently radiate the heat and burn the wood. Try adding some fire brick to the bottom and a bit up the side inside the stove.

[@gspd750]

Correct. A combustible floor must be protected by a non-combustible material (like tile, concrete board, or certified to UL-1618 or as defined by local codes)

[@SarahGraymatter]

A brick base is geometrically consistent to build on a cement board base, and bricks are easily scroungable for free. Make sure the exit point of the metallic chimney is also protected from heat.

[@ThoxSpuddy]

I agree. You have to have protection underneath the pipe elbow as creosote if it catches fire will drop down to that and burn right through it to the floor.

[@charlesr479]

Thanks for the idea Kit. I'm going to try lining my old Majestic with firebricks to see if that helps.

[@krisg3984]

Slim, you’re getting there.

[@davidjones8680]

I am sitting here in front of my woodstove typing this in my tee shirt and shorts. Outside its 36f, and windy as heck. But my thermometer in here is sitting at a sready 77f. Life is sure good with wood! Many thanks. David in Welsh Wales.

[@LatteLover]

Slim, once the fire gets going, just fill it with a good deal of firewood. Damper and intake fully open, and as you approach temperature, start closing them half way to maintain the temperature. Dryer wood will give out more heat.

[@SlimPotatohead]

Great advice. Thanks! SP

[@cliffwendy3765]

@@SlimPotatohead yes, damper fully open.

[@todddunn945]

I agree you need to put more wood into the stove. Also switching to a denser wood like oak or maple will make a big difference. We have been heating largely with wood in New Brunswick and Maine since 1986. Good dry hardwood is much better firewood than birch, spruce or pine. We dry our wood for two years before we burn it. One other thing, don't you need cement board under the stove too. My Jotul stove here in Maine sits on an inch of cement board with marble tiles over that. My stove has in integral heat shield on the back and sides to I don't need a heat shield on the wall. When I lived in Fredericton I had a plate stove built in Quebec that would easily heat my 2,000 sq. ft. house even when it was -20C outside. That stove was on a brick hearth I built over the cement slab my house was built on.

[@lory2622]

@@SlimPotatohead a damped fire throws off more heat.

[@stevelewis9677]

Yep fill her up and let it breath then once it’s going you can cut the intake back

[@marycoburn1829]

That stove would look very nice with a coat of stove blacking. I also agree that it needs more and larger wood. Load it up and damp it down halfway and I bet it will drive you out of that cabin. Cast iron takes time to heat up, just like your frying pan, but when it gets warm, it's stays warm for a while. Stay warm and keep us in videos and we'll be as happy as you are!

[@raktoda707]

I don't know,you took a totally unheated place that's been rained upon,blown in a hurricane upon,seen some cold winters 🥶 alone on the hill so the whole house body,the earth below,the new parts all have to warm up together,dry out together,then they'll be ready for hold heat like no tomorrow! Yours is a most refreshing and unique home I just love it.Take care Please know you are amazing ! When things get cozy you'll see,Home Sweet Home !

[@theresevh]

I just want to say, there are so many helpful and encouraging comments here! What a treat to read such comments, honestly! Slim, you bring out the best in people, and that is a very fine thing. Thank you, and thank you to all your commenters!

[@yooperwsdm]

Slim, We had a similar problem with our old stove. We lined the inside of the firebox with fire bricks on the bottom and sides, then add a grate to lift the logs off the bottom to increase airflow. We also got one of the thermal fans on top to blow the heat around the camp.. Grab some stove- black to treat the rust and refinish the cast-iron sides. Love the video's, enjoy the crack-lin fire with a cold one.

[@ve2vfd]

That's a pretty large stove for the size of your cabin, it should be more than enough to turn it into a sauna. To retain heat you'll want to insulate the attic/roof, you're probably losing a lot of heat up there. EDIT: Remember heat rises and escapes at the high points.

[@FeedScrn]

Thanks for the video | "It is a new thing. A learning experience"... Yes.. for you, for me, and probably a lot of others as well.

[@michellegarry1872]

The “face” on your stove door is absolutely charming. (I never used that word before.) The expression of misery is unmistakable. 😂

[@daveboise_2222]

No advice from me except to keep making cabin videos. Really enjoyed it.

[@sugarsnap1578]

Slim you are a tonic for all that’s going on around the world you give me a bit of escapism thankyou 😊

[@johnclark6571]

I agree SS.

[@axolp]

Slim, you are the best!

[@TillTheCollapse]

Man I wish I had an uncle like SP! Would be so cool to sit by the stove and listen to the good ol' travel stories during the long winter nights :))

[@dottie2884]

Don't forget and have a Cold BEER too

[@francvig1570]

Hello Slim. Thanks for your video. Like some people said... you need to crank your stove with good quality wood. First only use dry wood. Damp wood do not give heat at all. It burn but do not give heat. If you want to go throught the night use hard dry wood. The fire will last longer wil you sleep. During the day you can burn soft wood but you will have to reload more often. Used hard or soft wood will give you heat as long as it is dry. Wish you to anjoye these moments wil sitting close to your stove. This source of heat is so fondamental during the cold winters night. The comming days i will put wood in my stove thinking about you and wishing that you are warm and in peace. I wish to all of us to find peace sitting by our stove during the comming winters day/night. A warm stove is a warm sole.

[@stanwingfield2027]

To add circulating heat in your cabin: put one of those circulating heat fans, powered only by the heat from one's free standing wood stove top. Also keep your kettle of hot water on your wood stove top so that you can add humidity to the air, if needed since in Nova Scotia there may be enough humidity.

[@maureenblute2555]

He had a fan on his wood stove in the little camper

[@FarrellMcGovern]

Yes, those Peltier powered fans are a good idea.

[@ventilate4267]

@@maureenblute2555 i was about to say "didn't he have one of those?"

[@mr.different7494]

Good idea. Free circulation!

[@gurueddy]

Yep, wood stove fans divert the rising hot air into the room. Work well.

[@kathyadair7367]

Grew up in a wood frame farmhouse with little to no insulation, cheap single paned windows, 6 large rooms. Heated it with a Ben Franklin wood stove from Montgomery Wards purchased in the early 70s. Stove was in the first room with rest behind it, with solid walls, only regimar door openings, no venting, no blowers etc. And there was a small propane heater in last room only used on very cold mornings. Build your fire, damper fully open, load it up w wood once it's going. Then start damping down until you have a temperature you are comfortable with. Ours would turn red it got so hot at times. We had paneling behind it, no protection. Very surprised it never caught fire. Your stove will heat that cabin, and you can cook on top. I'd use stove black and shine that thing up. Love your cabin series 😀

[@lifehunter6426]

As others have stated, when starting a wood stove you have to load it all the way up and open the draft and the damper all the way. Get it going like an inferno then start adjusting the draft and damper slowly. Once you have a few hot coals in there you're golden. Also, it takes a while to heat up the area when the walls and everything is cold. The wood, tables, chairs, walls and everything in the cabin will keep giving off cold air until it soaks up that heat. I used to build and sell wood stoves, some with grates in them for grilling in the house. I heated with nothing but wood for many years. Don't be disappointed. Once you learn it you'll love it. The most comfortable heat there is.

[@vickiegroome3220]

Slim this is so much better than the hurricane experience .

[@mikesmith1550]

About your heat shield on the wall: There needs to be an air space at the bottom above the floor level, so it acts like a chimney and will draw cold air in at the bottom as air is heated inside the space between the shield and the wall. You could put your bare hand on the floor right in front of the shield to verify that there really is no heat to mention down there. Just raise the shield and backing up about 4 inches. During the coldest weather I also stack some concrete blocks from my garden in between the shield and the stove to retain heat rather than let it go up the chimney. I always have a bucket of drinking water on the stove as well. Washing your hands and face or dishes in warmer water is a winter luxury for me. Have fun playing with your stove! Good video.

[@Scott_From_Maine]

Only needs to be one inch above the floor, which it is.

[@TXH1138]

if you look very close, there is a gap at the bottom.

[@SarahGraymatter]

Good point

[@tpseeker3367]

@@TXH1138 sides as well

[@chadriglin9217]

Hi Slim, I have a stove tip to share for Emergencies! In the event of a chimney fire or the necessity to extinguish the fire in your wood stove, completely soak one or two large rolls of paper towel and place them in the wood stove and close the door! The rising steam will give you the best chance to extinguish the fire! I learned this CIRCA 1985 from my grandfather at the summer cottage, I was 11yrs old. Great decor by the way! Thanks for all your efforts Slim, the videos are relaxing and fun to watch. Chad in Saskatchewan.

[@thebossisback10002]

That flat bar near the stove is used to replace individual shingles, you slide it up behind the shingle hook the nail then remove the nail by banging on the handle with a hammer. Remove the nails slide the shingle out and slide in a replacement. As always great video

[@SlimPotatohead]

A second confirmation

[@mikekemsley1531]

@@SlimPotatohead Third conformation. We used one of those to pull nails on slates when we used to work on slate roofs years ago.

[@devonwharton9244]

Your on the right track, start with crumpled paper, then a criss cross pattern of kindling and light, as soon as kindling is going well, add three or four small logs, keep bottom air intake open and keep door cracked open and flu open. The air intake with door just a half inch ajar will get those logs going very well! Once a good amount of coals have formed under the logs, close the door then you must close down the flu by around 80 percent and do the same on the air intake. Leaving both mostly open allows the majority of your heat to just go right up and out. By closing down the intake and flu, your fire will drop to a slow smoldering, hot coal fire, the wood last alot longer and the heat value increases. I heat our log cabin almost entirely by an old wood stove. What you have will work very well, you just need to adjust how you do things a bit. Good luck sir...

[@andrewnichols7410]

Afternoon Slim! There certainly is a learning curve with those old stoves. But, once you get the hang of them, loading them up, keeping a steady burn and drying the cabin out, you will have no problem with heat. We have had one from the 40's in our hunting cabin for decades. It takes about the better part of a day to get the cabin warm, it's a bit large for a hunting cabin. But once it's fired up and the stove is hot, keeping it hot isn't a problem. We don't have alot of insulation in the walls or roof. Even still... there are times you will want to sleep with the windows open! It's all about finding how the cabin and stove perform best. Once you get that dialed in, you'll be set for winter. Stay warm!

[@HP3.14]

I remember when I had a cottage. Winter time, it took two days before the cabin was really warm. That stove has a lot of flat surfaces, it can't heat the air that fast or store the heat. You could turn the stove a quarter of a turn and wall it up with natural stone around it. Then you avoid the heat shield. The wall stores the heat while you sleep and you can wall in heat channels around the stove to heat up the house faster. (Better heat convection)

[@rhysredin3030]

One thing you have to keep in mind is that you aren't just heating air. You are heating everything in the inside of the space to a higher temperature. The more mass, the slower the heating. However, the more mass, the longer it holds the heat once you do get it warmed.

[@rumrun11]

You know your Canadian when you take off your Plaid jacket only to reveal ANOTHER Plaid jacket 😊 Love ya Slim

[@peacefulwife5199]

Hello Slim. ☕️ Coffee? It's a beautiful afternoon now. Thanks for the warm fire....🔥 Thank you for your kindness and dedication to give us these lovely videos. 😊

[@SlimPotatohead]

Thanks, but I'm a morning coffee person!

[@TraceUK]

I just knew someone would have the right advice to solve the stove issue and I wasn’t wrong! You have some great, knowledgeable viewers, Slim! I’ve visited Canada many times and absolutely LOVE it. I’d do anything to live there, it’s the most beautiful country on earth. You’re incredibly blessed to live there 🙏 Sending warm wishes from the UK.

[@valspannbauer3334]

Enjoy all your videos!!! My husband & I live in Virginia, but I'm Canadian. Was born in Toronto once upon a time!! Thank you for sharing your videos with us, with a good mix of humor & information. Looking forward to the next one as always!!!

[@marklloyd4153]

I would look into a solid window covering like shutters . They will block more heat from going out and cold from getting in. U can also control the light better in the day . Maybe adding a winter window cover inside made of plexiglass glass ??? Also a good storm door on the front door .

[@j.patrickmoore9137]

My stepdad bought a house that was almost completed at the Oregon Coast; had an additional space added with a wood stove. It was a two story house, and the contractor put in a duct pipe, about 18 inches, with a thermostat up top that would turn on when it hit 68 degrees near the peak of the room, a fan that pulled the warm air down to about a foot off the floor. It was a great system for heating the house. Some brick around the stove will help because it becomes a thermal mass that absorbs heat and then stays warm for a couple of days; it will help to even out the heating by absorbing when it's cold and releasing the heat once it's warmed up. I've watched the homebuilders in western Oregon; they build the house, and once it's sealed up, they crank up the furnace for a few days and dry it all out. Likely you were in that kind of process, only you didn't have rain coming in while framing and putting on the roof; but the concept is the same, once you dry it out, it will be easier to keep comfortable. As a number of commenters said, installing an outside air intake will help make things more efficient, as you won't be drawing cold air into the house itself, but only into the stove.

[@bobpetrovski8677]

Greetings. We live in a coast environment in SW WA and heat primarily with our woodstove and wood from our property. Primarily alder, spruce, and hemlock. You need to let the stove do its work. Once you have a good roaring base, load the stove up, close the door, adjust the dampner for a good sustainable blaze, and sit back. Don't keep opening and closing the door and feeding it a stick at a time. Just a suggestion. Good luck. Winter well. Happy trails!

[@karisather1832]

My uncle always had 2 years of firewood ready for Grandma’s cook stove. There is a learning curve for heating with a wood stove and your cabin is larger than your trailer. Some excellent suggestions from your viewers. I enjoy your videos.

[@IyamJimmyJames]

Hey there Slim, I would suggest a chimney pipe thermometer. I have 2 stoves I heat with and they are very helpful to get your burn temperatures where you want. It keeps me from running the fire too hot and also too cool. Great info to have. Keep up the good work!

[@genekied]

A little grate that raises the logs off the bottom will add circulation under the fire to help with combustion and should raise the achieved temps. Also, if your budget can handle it, a heat exchanger on the exhaust pipe will work wonders for capturing and moving heat around the room.

[@cherriemckinstry131]

Are they called wood stove heat exchangers? I want to look them up.

[@randallporter4835]

Yea Canadian Tire or any Hardware store should sell those pretty cheap.

[@heathjacob6841]

So awesome me n grandma get together watch your videos n have on speaker have snacks, I live with my grandma til I get into college, times are tough today, we can't wait til you're cabin is finished.

[@Scott_From_Maine]

If you're building the fire on the metal bottom of the stove, assuming there are no grates inside, you should have a couple inches of ashes or preferably sand on the bottom. Better for the stove and less heat out the bottom. A fireproof pad under the stove and extending in front of the stove is also a necessity.

[@happytoo10]

Good morning Slim, from Australia, where I live here can get extremely cold and we use a wood heater in our main house, that is of a modern version (20 yrs old) and works extremely well at heating a large house, we have another house that I inherited up in an alpine region and is very old and we have been restoring it for a couple of years now,one of the things it came with was a wood heater out of the 1930’s, long story short,poor heat,loved wood, changed it out for a newer slow combustion heater with triple burn technology with the result been more dry heat,less wood required and we can put a cast iron casserole on top of it to make casseroles throughout the day( absolutely delicious), I purchased it at one of the big hardware chains at reasonable cost.

[@marianfrances4959]

Awesome stove, awesome heat shield. 👍😎🇨🇦🔥 LOL on the running shoes remark.

[@TownDeputy]

Hi, Slim. Love your work… To make the floor much warmer. May I suggest: A low power fan sucking cold air from foot level on the 1st floor up though an air duct to the peak of the loft. If you're still reading... IMHO blowing cold air up results in better heat exchange, less drafts, and having cold air being continuously pulled away from foot level gets right to the problem. Suggest 6-8 inches diameter ducting given low power fan. Blowing hot air down means major drafts and doesn't remove the cold air at foot level. Perhaps the heat powered fan would suffice or one or two computer fans. Possibly the distance between the part in contact with the stove and the fan motor/blade could be increased. Regrettably, I don't know how to make it to look nice! Enjoying your progress, Jim and Margaret Colorado Springs

[@AlaskaRog]

Hi Slim. The “implement of destruction” you showed briefly in your newest video about your stove, is a tool that is made to reach up under shingles and allows one to pull the nails out that are holding the shingle to the wall. I live not far from you in Maine and a retired carpenter friend just gave me his tool like that so I can replace some damaged shingles on my house. We enjoy your videos! Cheers, AlaskaRog

[@psfphotography]

You've probably heard a bunch of comments about the stove... but I have heard people say it is a good idea to either put an inch or two of sand in the bottom of the stove to keep the bottom of the the fire box from burning out, and or to add a steel grate to keep the fire directly off the bottom for easier cleaning & longer life of the bottom. They also make a heat activate fan that you can put on top of the stove - the blades start to turn when it reaches a certain temp to help circulate the heat better. Thanks for the videos! I look forward to them.

[@davesanders9203]

My suggestion is - oh, wait - you already have 200+ "suggestions"!!!!! I'll just sit here and enjoy the video - and stay warm.

[@Twelvestonestacking]

Sockets as spacers very inventive!

[@grzegorzlecki3139]

Slim, i have not watched your videos for a few months and I did not realize how much I missed! great progress and it is great to see you again.

[@clarkleakins879]

Looks like everyone has good advice regarding the stove operation, and your heat shield. Just one additional, start the fire in the rear, at the flue, use fast burning material, damper full open, air intake full open. The hot flue will immediately start the air draw, avoiding interior smoke. That door sounds like it has no seal. Suggest you consider adding a seal. Did you measure attic ceiling temperature? Not insulated ceiling, the roof snow may slough off sooner. Snow can be excellent insulation. Suggest interior ceiling insulation. FILL THAT FIRE BOX and go to bed. It should keep you toasty all night, with the best/proper damper and intake settings.

[@MrAlvinDude]

I once lived in an apartment - in an old brick house - that was built around the time of the 1st world war. So double brick walls, but no insulation. Also bricks had been used to bind the two walls. Metal was not available for "primitive" house building wall-binders, as metal was very much in demand at the war. The apartments had since been updated with efficient and modern central heating, but a day-time and night-time energy-saving-scheme was used. So the rooms never ever got heated properly. At one point I broke in to the boiler room, and removed the energy savings scheme. So the heat was now at full blast, all the time. Even so, it took about 72 hours before the rooms felt warm and nice. It simply took that long to drive the moisture out of the inner walls. And until they were properly dry, no amount of heat would bring the temperature above a certain point. The limiting point was about 16-18*C, as this is where it was warm enough to start driving the moisture out of the walls. --- I wonder if your wood cabin will need a thorough heating, before it too dries up, from the humidity/moisture that is naturally "stored" in the planks and boards. And after such a drying-out event, then the air temperature might be be able to get above 16-18*C?

[@chriscarshunting]

Hi. Well first comment on your channel. As others have said. Insulate Everything first. The hole on the left of the door is for a missing handle. What you use as a handle in the center is an intake to fine tune the air. Get a flue thermometer. place it above the damper just before the elbow. Follow what it shows for burn/flue temperatures. Dry wood. it will all burn. some make more heat. But dry wood. Bringing a whole building up to temperature takes a long time and a lot of wood. Easy to maintain after that. Eco fans are great. But need to be on the stove. Not the grate. Same as the water. Dry wood. Thermometer. practice. Dry wood. In that order. LOL. you will get used to running a stove. Cheers.

[@audiotechlabs4650]

Like everyone has said this a big stove. It requires 6-8” of coals, that requires a lot of small fuel, then after it has enough coals you have to fill it up! It’s designed to handle 24” long pieces and 10-14” around pieces. Once you get it up and running it should hold a warm fire all night. I had a front loading circulator and with deep a amount of coals and green oak or hardwood, turn the damper almost off it will smolder all night. After you learn how the stove will work, a fan of some sort will greatly increase the warm air in the cabin. I thought that stove was way too big for that size of a cabin. If it it gets too hot, open a window or door. You are always coming up with brilliant, inexpensive ways of doing things so you will figure it out. You take us on your adventures,to places I’ll never get to see in person, so I hope these tips help! I do know about stoves.❤🏠🌨️from NW Colorado . Thanxz

[@TOM-LARSON]

Looks great Slim. I would suggest a tray. Maybe cookie sheet like in front of your lower air intake. I had stone under mine but sparks WILL pop out of those small openings. Cabin is looking great. Thanks for sharing. Peace from Michigan

[@SlimPotatohead]

Great idea. Thanks! SP

[@stevemac5117]

Great video Slim. I like your safety measure,. A fire extinguisher and running shoes. LOL. Nice idea using the sockets as spacers. Thanks for sharing.

[@bryanwilson4386]

Two things: First, for anyone who wants a similar backer behind their wood burner, you can use common aluminum foil as a deflector. Second, I notice that Slim, who claims to like saving money and keeping things simple, actually splurges on cereal with TWO scoops of raisins! 😄 Glad it works Slim, that will make for a pleasant evening. I've got an old cast iron pot belly from a caboose set up in my workshop that always works great and makes a mean pot of coffee, or eggs and bacon. Heavy though...

[@davebenson1504]

😂

[@maureenblute2555]

Never compromise 2 scoops... just like coffee ☕. Just don't do it lol

[@Scott_From_Maine]

It's not even store brand!

[@pattiwhite9575]

LOL Two Scoops

[@williamabaker12]

I can't wait to see this thing roaring in wintertime when you really get used to it and load it up! It'll heat that cabin nicely!

[@OB17358]

Slim, fire bricks to line the old stove is a way to extend the stoves life, and will help retain heat long after the fire is out. Some kind of hearth to set the stove on will add to peace of mind/saftey. I am amazed at the cabins transformation. Thanks for sharing your journeys.

[@cathtf7957]

Wonderful to have free heat. I Love my wood stove and forage for all free wood. Stay warm!

[@Biwi1947]

You probably know burning pine creates soot & creosote that builds up & can cause a chimney fire. We had plenty available in the South growing up but Daddy always told us not to use pine. That stove is awesome. Keep it.

[@SlimPotatohead]

All wood creates creosote, including hardwoods. Dry pine burns faster but still gives off heat. I will use it as it is on the land. SP

[@jamiejack764]

You got me through lockdown with my mental health thank you

[@MrClipper500]

Hi Slim. Had a friend that I helped renovate a hotel that encountered a similar issue to yours. The problem is the open ceiling going to your loft. Any room fills with heat from the top to the bottom. Most of your heat is flying up the stairs to your loft. With the stove running your loft must be noticeably warmer. With no insulation up there your heat is leaving the building. When warm air leaves, it is replaced with cold air from any crack in the building. Even if you insulated the ceiling of the loft area you are heating too many square feet. You need a sealed door going to your loft and the ceiling above the living room area should be insulated with batt fiberglass. What you currently have is a house with 14 foot ceilings with that loft area open. It takes a lot of BTU`s to heat a hotel lobby with 14 foot ceilings. My friend sealed off his loft area and insulated the loft floor with R-19 insulation and the heat stayed downstairs. Canada has some cold winters. When it gets below zero you need to seal up your building envelope. Great channel. You put a lot of work in that cabin. Keep the vids coming.

[@jjbinderr]

I loved this video. Thank you for sharing. I have to agree with Ray Murphy because those old stoves are better than the heating systems we have today. Usually they require two tending‘s and that’s it for an entire day. Definitely fill your wood box and open all the flus. In order to avoid creosote buildup, you want to run that bugger hot first thing and then back it down. I guarantee you will be opening doors and windows within two hours. That is a fine stove.

[@UberStarFkr]

Since you started out with a clean box, keep the ash from this burn in place and try to keep about an inch of ash in the box floor. It acts as an insulation and actually helps the fire get hotter. I remember many winters growing up where the wood burning stove was the only source of heat we had. Each of us took turns throughout the night to check on the fire and make sure it was always burning.

[@SlimPotatohead]

Sounds like a great idea. Thanks! SP

[@UberStarFkr]

@@SlimPotatohead any time 😃, enjoying the content!

[@teripittman]

We used to put some sand in the bottom of the firebox too.

[@jaylegere]

Hi Slim. I love that stove. It's beautiful. Having the draft open all the way when starting the fire is a good idea. Maybe even having the door open a crack is a good idea when trying to get a hot stove. You definitely want to get things hot nice and fast. Another tip, slowly Crack the door and let the stove breath a little before opening it all the way. When I open my stoves too fast I get a back draft. Especially when the fire is young. That stove has a huge box. If you can get a really nice hot bed of coals, it should roar when placing nice cuts of wood on it. I feel like there's hope for that stove. I've had so many struggles with stoves, but in the end I've realized that each one takes a bit of time to learn. They are all different and that one is a character for sure. Don't give up on it yet. I have a feeling the people who lived there before would have gotten rid of it if it didn't keep them warm. Good luck Slim, and good video!

[@stephen.mcguire]

I'm certain you've gotten a lot of suggestions and advice, so I won't add. However, as you said there's a learning curve and stoves can be quite unique. In elementary school we used wood heat for our house and my job in the afternoon was to stock and light the living room stove. (At age 10! matches! fire!) Within a short time I knew exactly how to load/light/adjust that stove to get it rocking on a cold winter day. I'm positive you will find what works for your stove and cabin. Looking forward to your continued adventures, thanks for sharing.

[@ScubaSteveCanada]

Brings back memories of our old cottage that used an old wood stove and convection heat to warm up the place. My Dad sold it back in the late '70s. I'm down by Ajo at the moment.

[@davidfawcett632]

Great videos sir. I am also living in a cabin in N.B. Wood stoves are dear to my heart as my family built wood stoves for 300 years in Sackville N.B. !! But in case you want to upgrade check out the NB power offer for a heat pump. 🇨🇦

[@spinningflieschasingtrout4783]

Hey Slim, if you can get your hands on a WoodChief that would be optimal. You have to get the chimney heated up to create draw. It also could be that you need to add a few feet to the part above the roofline. I did notice there are no brick in the old Monarch. Like many have already said you gotta fill any stove to maximize your heat. We have a WoodChief at the camp and it takes a few hours to warm everything up and then the camp itself will heat up. I wish you well Slim! We live just outside Moncton, NB. Keep up the videos, great down to earth content.

[@pampasspmw]

Very Canadian of you to use Robertson screws! I once watch a whole documentary on its history. Super neat.

[@sonnyboywannabe]

Thanks Slim--it looks like you need to close the flue. Once the fire is going good and hot, shut that flue down (nearly closed) and that will trap more heat inside the cabin and stove.

[@ftkinsella]

Looking good Slim. Stuff that box, sit back and relax. It has to be a warm thought that you have come this far. Lots wouldn't even give it a go. Cheers brother!

[@marilynrenaud1892]

Best of luck with that old wood stove... I read a lot of the other comments so I don't need to repeat them. I have a soapstone wood stove and it heats my house amazingly well. To get it warm quickly I pack it with a lot of wood and set that thing blazing. My only concern about your wood stove is that I am surprised it is not on a hearth to protect the floor. In the town where I live, wood stoves have to be installed by a professional with a fire marshal watching to make sure it is installed correctly before you can use it. We have a hearth underneath the wood stove and a heat shield attached to the back of it. We've had this wood stove for 20 years and I love it. I use it quite a bit. We only burn hard wood because soft woods create creosote in the chimney pipe and could cause a chimney fire. Only our kindling is pine. The hotter you burn, the less your chances of creosote build up.

[@SlimPotatohead]

Hi Marilyn. There is no hearth because this is only a test. If I change stoves I may change the footprint. Thanks! SP

[@cherriemckinstry131]

I like how the sheet metal turned out. Many buildings are now using rusty "shabby sheek" panels to panel the walls and side of counter...you do it so it's comforting to look at and functional. I'm in a similar scenario between budget, looks and what's acceptable.

[@bernadettebockis4120]

What a beautiful place you made!

[@jeffreymacqueen]

had almost same stove at camp up here in fredericton ,loved the look,but never was happy with performance. was not csa approved ,so had insurance issues.changed out to second hand air tight stove. also found we needed floor protection because of sparks out of damper. we used chuncks of copper pipe for spacers. chunk of steel almost looks like lawnmower blade.

[@claymiller1893]

Slim, I'm from Texas and i dream about canada most of the time! I do envy you living in such a cool enviornment. Keep it up buddy I love your content!

[@carolyntolliver1146]

Mica sheets! In 1955 our family camped from New York to California and back. Some miners gave me a piece of mica about 5" in diameter. Dad later used that piece to do exactly what you did. He replaced the tiny window in our furnace with it. Your mention of its use is the first I have heard of using natural mica for a heat window since then. Wow.

[@jameslarson6555]

Best advice I could give is to use your excess metal roofing to build a slope roofed wood shed. I make mine using pallets as the base and metal roofing to keep off the moisture. Standup a pallet on either end to brace your stacks, you can make it as long as you want or need, and open air on all sides for best circulation. That allows two parallel stacks with an air gap in between. Stack your wood under cover as soon as it is split and wait for the checking on the ends (you can also feel the lightness or hear a sharp sound when hit together) or get a moisture meter to let you know when it is ready to be stove fuel. Burning improperly seasoned wood is a big waste of your time and energy, resulting in smoky fires generating little heat.

[@ladikmk]

Hi Slim! That old stove has a certain charm and definitely looks like it fits well in the cabin. Wonder if perhaps the fact that the humidity level was high from the cabin not being heated at all and that also affects the humidity level of the solid materials in the cabin, that this could have had an impact on the air temperature the stove could achieve the first time. One thing’s for sure - you’ll figure it out; you always do. Thanks for sharing & stay well.

[@dakotatenhoeve8880]

Awesome first fire up of the stove Slim, can’t wait to see it ripping in another video.

[@HoneyandMe]

It's a beautiful stove and worth trying to make it work. You might want to add a damper to the chimney which will hold the heat in the stove rather than it going up the chimney. We heat with wood at our 'home base' house as well as at our Yukon cabin where we spend part of the winter. At the cabin we don't have a CSA approved stove like we need to have at the house. The one at the cabin is a home built barrel stove and we love it! We get the stove kits from the US and use an old oil type barrel for the stove. The kit has the door, legs and the chimney hole included. Because the barrel is long, we cut longer pieces of firewood than most stoves will take. The fire lasts all night and keeps us toasty in the log cabin, even at -40C! We hammer out the top to flatten the barrel a bit so we can put pots on top. Works great to keep the kettle ready for tea!

[@karensimcik2240]

My husband says your stove pipe will draw better if you make it higher it is too close to the roof ridge. We enjoy your videos it’s refreshing to watch someone who shares their adventures without always trying to sell us something!!

[@kenshores9900]

Slim: You always produce good and thoughtful videos that are entertaining. We are all just a bunch of side line DIYers that don’t mind telling you how and what you could do better. Remember hard woods burn hotter and longer, and you want to try to keep excess air (oxygen) but you have not way of knowing that other than the color of the flame. The suggestions of fire brick are good also to protect the metal housing of your stove from thermal cycling. Keep up the good work. Waiting for your next adventure.

[@veevee111]

Great dress rehearsal, Slim. It was probably warmer in the loft since heat rises. At least that's what I've been told all my life. Thanks for sharing 👍🏼

[@C0NDEMN8TION]

The other tool you have by the tongs is a Slaters Ripper. It’s a tool to remove the nails holding roof slates in place. Love your video’s Slim!

[@SlimPotatohead]

Mystery solved. Thanks! SP

[@AlaskaRog]

Oops. Me too but I didn’t see the above comment before posting my own message.

[@aprilmoon1509]

I have a big old wood stove. To get mine going quickly I leave the door ajar until the fire gets going fairly hot then fill it up with bigger pieces. You should have something under the stove similar to what you put behind it. If your wood is even a little green it won't get hot enough to burn right away. You have a beautiful stove - it will burn for hours at night to keep you warm - just have to get to know it better.

[@CarrieMtn]

In my old log home- I was always surprised by the time it took to get it heated after being away for a while. I forgot about the thermal mass within the walls themselves. It takes a while to get the walls/floor and ceiling up to temp. Also I bet it was T-shirt weather in the loft. I have Always found a ceiling fan to be an essential part of a cabin. I bet with practice that stove will be super productive and a life saver in the winter. Patience and practice.

[@CarrieMtn]

Also get a magnetic thermometer to determine the temp of the stove pipe itself. You don’t want it to get extremely hot and it is an easy way to monitor that.

[@polymath5119]

Aaay Slim. My choice would be for attic insulation that will help in both winter and summer. I agree with others about a big fire in a big firebox and then damp it back as needed. Other than that, a smaller highly efficient but expensive Quadrafire stove is a good option for smaller fires and softwoods.

[@mrv6968]

Insulation in the loft and window coverings are definitely 2 areas that are a must. Heat rises and your ability to heat that much larger area depends on the roof on down. In cold climates we have low ceilings and in the tropics we have high ceilings to compensate for the heat.

[@robertmoore2783]

Slim. That stove heated the cabin long before you added insulation etc. Fill that sucker and let ‘er buck. When that stove starts bouncing off the floor ,you have enough wood in it. Also you should have the stove turned so that both long edges are pushing the heat out toward the room as now the one side is pushing the heat against the wall. You’re doing a great job my friend and I enjoy your videos. Keep on keeping on. Cheers

[@SlimPotatohead]

Too awkward to get around if I turned it, and too close to sliding doors as well. Thanks, SP

[@donnalizer7211]

if you are not living in your cabin full time, it will take several hours to warm up when you come back to it because your wood stove is radiant heat and it is warming surfaces before it can keep the air warm. when you are away, your walls get cold. you can't maintain air heat until the walls are warmed up.

[@justacuppajoe]

Couple of comments for ya Slim... 1st up I applaud your effort to recycle what you have there...the Monarch 24, but this may be a situation where the importance of efficiency, economy and safety win over and you purchase either something used but far more modern or just get your self a new stove. I think you'll end up paying a grand for new and maybe a quarter of that for used. 2nd, remember that the heat that you do get in the cabin fills the high spaces first, I'm guessing you may have already determined this by having a lit fire and going up to your loft space. Should be a good 10 degrees warmer up there, the only problem is that if you have no insulation set up there to trap the heat, it's going to bleed out of the roof. As always sir, thank you for sharing, love your vids and truly appreciate living vicariously through you and your adventures. :)

[@judyrobinson9556]

Very nice old woodstove. Yes, a lot more wood in there will raise your room temp. I had a woodstove for 12 years. If you put a small fan on top of the stove, it will project heat into the cabin and warm it up. I also had a protective fireproof mat under my stove to protect the floor from too much heat. It's best to burn only wood in your stove. No paper or cardboard, as this will cause creosote buildup. Start your fires with kindling. I also added a small piece of burn brick to keep it going just at the beginning. If you haven't already, check the under side of the stove to see if there are any signs of damage or that it could be ready to burn a hole thru. Periodically check your chimney piping for creosote buildup. You can also buy special burn logs that will clean creosote out of the chimney pipe. Enjoy your stove. Wood burners are so nice to have.

[@duffy4996]

hi slim....nice to see that you have some heat for the winter. Just a suggestion but we had to put a barrier under our wood stove. We used some sheet of galvanized metal under some patio cement blocks. worked well and met the code. also the tool that you hung on the wall with the two hooks at the end is a tool that is used to slide under wooden shingles to hook the nails and then you hammer on the offset end to pull out the nails. In that way, you can remove a damaged shingle without damaging the ones around it. It is sometimes called a shingle snake. cheers.

[@robertmiller4796]

You need to put more wood in and open up the air inlet also open up the damper in the stack. You should be able to turn the the stack red hot. Try cracking the door open , if that works you need to open up the air inlet. Good lock and have fun!!

[@wafflesnfalafel1]

nice vid, thanks sir - my folks home growing up had a 70's Woodland wood stove we used for heat for a number of years. We put in a poured aggregate concrete floor and wall barrier that worked well. The neighbor up the road had a stack fire with their much less well installed unit - make sure you have a couple fire extinguishers. But woodstoves are cool - my mother cooked Thanksgiving turkeys on it a couple times when the power went completely out.

[@looptheloopish]

They sure make a house smell good. My uncle went through a lot of walnut and hickory trees on his farm.

[@acimbobby]

Very good first attempt. See how it goes but with vent open fully would help. But just more large logs to pack out and drive the stove harder at start up will get the heat radiating more quickly from the metal body. A grate under the logs will increase the airflow. Infra red will heat up through the metal. Your safety precautions are very good. Just put a disclaimer into your video saying this is only you way of doing it as you see it. Very very good Slim with clear dialogue as always, you make a great presenter.

[@originalsixx]

That's a very nice looking woodstove, Slim! We love having a woodstove. We frequently lose power in the winter so it comes in handy for keeping the house warm and we've even cooked on it. There's nothing like the dry heat of a woodstove. If you ever get chilled, sit in front of the stove and you will be toasty warm in no time! Thanks for sharing.

[@carycoombe3380]

That second "fireplace tool" you bought is actually a "Heavy Duty Shingle Ripper". It is for repairing/replacing individual shingles that have to be removed so that you can put another (wood or slate) shingle back in. You slide/hammer it under the broken shingle and use one of the hooks on the side to catch around the nail that has to be cut to release the shingle. Once you have felt around with the tool and hooked the nail, you use your hammer to pound back the leading edge of the handle to pull the tool back out and cut the nail in the process. You repeat the process with the other nails until the shingle can be slid out an a new shingle can be slid in. I believe I saw it demonstrated in an episode of "This Old House" many years ago.

[@dalepointer9414]

" CABIN FIRE" THE SMELL OF AN OLD STOVE WOOD BURNING BRIGHT COMFORT AND HEAT MORNING, NOON AND NIGHT BRINGS MEMORIES BACK CHOPPING WOOD AND MORE PUTTING IN ANOTHER LOG CAREFULLY CLOSING THE DOOR YES, IN THE DAYS OLD CHIMNEY SMOKE TWISTING IN THE SKY A RIBBON REACHING UPWARD AND A WARM HOME INSIDE (STAY WARM...MY FRIEND).

[@SlimPotatohead]

Wow Dale, you're creative AND fast!!! SP