Getting DC Power from a DCC Controller

[@LittleWicketRailway]

In the video I used a mini560 buck converter, but I think the mini360 buck converters are probably better options for most applications. Affiliate links to both in the description.

[@huxleyjunction2133]

Thanks

[@NathanielKempson]

If you have incandecent light bulbs you dont need anything, just wire them right up to the track power. As long as the lamp voltage is HIGHER than the power output of your controller your ready for rock and roll.

[@LittleWicketRailway]

Hi Nathan, I'll give this a go 👍 Thanks for watching 🙂

[@IronHorseRailways]

Crikey Rob, you're a proper little wizard with the electrickery!! Very useful informative video mate 😊 Also.. butt converter LOL😂

[@LittleWicketRailway]

🤣 I'm just learning as I go along. Hope you're feeling better now.

[@IronHorseRailways]

@@LittleWicketRailway getting there actually mate thanks!❤️

[@paulsharpe3794]

Hi there thanks for the information I've been planning a wagon with an arduino on board but I was not sure how to power it this is the way I'll be going. Thanks again

[@LittleWicketRailway]

Thanks Paul. Worth noting IoTTs comment if you plan to use this with an Arduino. Don't power the board from the track and USB at the same time to avoid creating a ground loop.

[@paulsharpe3794]

@LittleWicketRailway Hi there I'm looking at making a trubelsum wagon for Thomas. A dcc decoder in the wagon and a arduino controlling a servo to engage, disconnect the motor. So that I don't have to mach it to eny locomotive

[@IoTT]

Hmmm, 60Hz rectifier for a 16kHz signal (not even considering the harmonics)? You should use a Schottky type rectifier for this application. You also should be aware that when rectifying a DCC signal, the negative pole is not the same as GND of the DCC system, due to the forward voltages of the diodes. If you use it to feed an Arduino which is connected to a USB port of a PC, you create a ground loop which in the worst case has negative effects on the health of your PC. Therefore, you should always use a USB isolator when powering an Arduino with DC generated from DCC (unless you are looking for a new computer).

[@LittleWicketRailway]

Great advice. Do you know of a Schottky type in a similar DIL package? I think the EDB10x range might be better as they're fast recovering, but looks like you can only buy them in quantities of 2500. Hadn't considered the grounds being different. I don't connect USB and external power at the same time, but I can see that some might.

[@mikeseba7817]

👍👍👍

[@RichardKuivila1947]

Nope - The DCC waveform can be considered "bipolar DC" which is just another term for alternating current (AC). (Square wave)) It switches between +V DC and -V DC volts Rectified it produces a constant DC Voltage.

[@ronaldlatek8103]

I think you have over complicated things. I have hooked just an led and resistor to Dcc track power and they work successfully. No need for a buck converter or bridge rectifier.

[@LittleWicketRailway]

Yeah, potentially over complicated for LEDs. What you've created is a half wave/bridge rectifier. The LED is only receiving current half the time. This probably isn't too much of an issue for lighting because the changes in signal are so fast, although I expect brightness is reduced. I started looking at this because I want to put wireless sensors in but don't want to run a DC bus. Think a full bridge rectifier is still the way to go for this.