Giandel 600W Pure Sine Inverter Teardown

[@davebruessow6842]

Nice review and breakdown. Helping me decide between Victron and Giandel for a small inverter. Thank you for sharing...

[@dboots133]

thank you, i am considering this inverter for my boat, having watched your review, ive now placed an order, thanks again. Dave uk

[@MrBobWareham]

Yes I wish you had your scope as well and a test run under load but thanks for the video

[@jimm2442]

I really appreciate the fact that you checked the current draw switched on and off. An actual test of output would have been nice. Thank you.

[@roysummers9714]

Just watched the video - thank you. Did you check the polarity? I noticed it looks like the load and neutral are either mislabeled or wired backwards.

[@John-gm8ty]

nice walkthrough

[@aonomus]

Thanks!

[@Ian-pe9rj]

That is a push pull DC-DC converter, the battery positive goes to the center tap on the primary, then the other 2 taps are alternately switched to ground to create the AC needed for the transformer to boost the voltage.

[@jackt6112]

Exactly!

[@AndrewMetcalfe]

Am I correct that the AC is wired backwards here, ACN on the mainboard goes to ACL on the connectors and vice-versa?

[@andrewemileski8004]

Calling it 'class D' was a brilliant observation. I hadn't considered this common topology as that before, but it is obviously 100% spot-on. To another comment suggesting it was push-pull center-tapped, another common topology, note the 4x MOSFETs on the low-voltage side and not two; it is a full H-bridge (more efficient since it uses full windings, not half). The high-voltage side is likely 4x IGBT H-bridge. Overall looks to be good quality, with some attention to small details. I only wished they paid that level of attention to the outlet orientation (hostile to wall-warts), grounding post (also blocks outlet - DC side a better location), and DC input (needs a barrier between posts).

[@aonomus]

Good point on the wall wart incompatibility. Having the usb port built in might have been part of their answer to that though. At least personally I don't want tech that cannot take a standard 5.5x2.1mm or usb micro/c cable so I'm not hugely put off by that?

[@andrewemileski8004]

For what it is worth, there are portable ways to get around the wall-wart issue: * 1 foot 'dog bone' extension (search: NEMA 5-15P 5-15R 1ft, make sure to get 16 AWG, handles 13 Amps). I have tons of these about for use with crowded power-strips and UPS outlets; I literally buy them in bulk (Monoprice sells a 10-pack for $16 USD, UL certified). * 'AC line splitter'. Inexpensive, and they have a 'window(s)' for inserting a clamp-style ammeter, typically for 1x or 10x current measurements, or even both. Very handy to have around! * A power cube or 3-outlet adapter. Very small and convenient, and widely available. * The obvious: a small powerbar or short extension cable. Not as portable, but also widely available. Also, I did purchase a Giandel 600W pure sine inverter. Thanks for your 'inside-look' review!

[@aonomus]

@@andrewemileski8004 I haven't finished editing the build log, and I'm in the middle of changing around how I make my videos so you haven't seen it yet, but I already have this in place for the inverter inside the box.

[@fokcuk]

Can it be added to the negatively bonded switchboard?

[@ifell3]

Was thinking similar

[@budmartin3344]

Are you going to do actual load test to see how well it works? Good video.

[@aonomus]

I did off screen load tests just to verify it worked, but the quality of the setup was below what I'd consider publishing on the channel. Eventually I'll get to editing the LTO battery bank finale video and summarize it all there.

[@derekwindle8047]

Is there a way to remove/disable/abandon the remote control + the case mounted long-press type switch & replace with a single pole single throw type switch, or maybe modify/remove the 6 core ribbon cable. (Giandel didn't offer a solution)

[@dan32one44]

Why they connected the fuses in parallel ain’t dangerous ? Thanks

[@aonomus]

The paralleled fuses should be fine for 2 reasons: 1. Manufacturing specs on ATC/ATO style fuses should be close enough that the two fuses share current equally for all intents and purposes to the end user, even between manufacturing batches. As soon as you exceed the rating on either fuse and it blows, the second fuse (already overloaded) instantly doubles in load and blows as well. Presumably this would protect against fail-dangerous faults of the inverter circuitry. 2. Before the inverter load ever reaches overload levels for the fuses, the inverter itself has overcurrent protection and thermal cutouts already built in. Only an outright failure of the H-bridge (fail-short MOSFETs for example) would ever create the need for fuses to blow if the inverter is designed properly. Speaking empircally I have definitely attempted to overload this inverter off-camera in the years since I filmed this video. 1500W puts it into overcurrent protect mode, and the output shuts off.

[@dan32one44]

@@aonomus Awesome 👏 Thank you for reply I’m using it my camper van to charge my BLUETTI little worry that’s all…👍

[@gerardogutiguti4156]

Hello greetings! I am about to buy this same 600w inverter for a small isolated system, could you make the inverter work with lifepo4 batteries?

[@aonomus]

It should be fine if the battery has it's own BMS with low voltage cutoff

[@voltworksofficial]

It can work with Lifepo4 batteries

[@scotthelmann5156]

NIce Job! I was wondering why the stand by (power on) current was lower on my 4000 watt Giandel inverter than all the other large inverters I have measured and done tests on. The 4000 watt version apparently has 8 smaller 500 watt units (like the one you are tearing down) working together. I am guessing the lower standby current draw is because of the design- as a lot of current isn’t be wasted in the standby magnetic fields of an output transformer. The only downside is that the inverter really doesnt have any surge capacity (which is normally a function of the magnetic fields of the output transformer if I understand correctly). Thanks for your teardown video!

[@aonomus]

The surge capacity is likely limited by the ferrite core transformer saturating at too strong a magnetic field at it's particular switching frequency. It's a cost benefit ratio because they wouldn't want to waste money on an oversized ferrite only for it to be mostly unused. Probably secondary to that is the current on the FET/IGBTs.

[@Mishnplant]

Mine can only handle 530v max.. there are no peakpower ..dont you want to test it?

[@KrisGibbins]

Any chance you could explain how the remote switch is wired? I'd like to add an extra switch. (RJ11, 4 wires).

[@aonomus]

2 LEDs and one Button should mean it is either +V or GND common, and 3 lines for the button and LEDs. I believe there were series resistors for the LEDs inside the button box? I have it mounted so it's a bit too late to examine further, but if you have your switch box you should be able to see which 2 wires correspond to the momentary switch.

[@KrisGibbins]

@@aonomus Thanks for the reply, that's great. I think I had a very quick look before and couldn't quite suss it out but I think that makes sense to me. I will have another look. Hopefully should be simple enough to make another identical switch box and add a RJ11 Y splitter.

[@jackt6112]

- It wouldn't be unusual to find it taking some current with it off. I know the Bustek's do, but their USB ports are live too with the switch off. I like it that it takes no power, or at least unmeasurable. I'm guessing the ports are not active with the power off? I'd like that too. There are plenty of other places in a vehicle, like the cigar lighter, where you can get always-on USB if you want it. The Giandel 300W Pure Sine It takes about 1/4th the idle current, .22A, than the BUSTEK, plus it has a replaceable fuse. The Giandel 300W also has a smart controller for the USBs so they can actually do quick charge so it's probably the same here. - If you take apart the Giandel 300w it is just like that with 1/2 of the same components in some areas, which is probably why you see parallel components. The 300w uses one 30A fuse, but I believe that ATC fuses max out at 40A so they would need to so something else, or add a another one in parallel like they did here. PS: Quiescent should be pronounced with a long "I" as its root word quiet.

[@byungogotv8004]

How much ?

[@marsdelapp7708]

600 Watt

[@talusranch990]

Real board evaluation does not utilize sharp metal tool

[@ajw6715]

That inverter is to small for much.

[@Cashpots]

“Are these fuses in series or in parallel”. That honestly sums up the nonsense one can get on You Tube! Never use this as a learning aid.

[@aonomus]

Ok boomer

[@HDXFH]

Giandel is chinese not aussie

[@AlanLow]

Nope, Aussie company made in China. www.giandel.com.au/about-giandel-australia/

[@aonomus]

Yeah, there are certainly some disadvantages to offshore manufacturing, but with the right contracts, audits, and proper product design there's nothing inherently 'bad' about manufacturing in a lower cost country. Depending on the factories though (and this is why you audit) there may be questionable human rights practices, poor quality, side-dealing, or other deal-breaker issues. Capitalism will always optimize for cost, so until China costs (all costs, not just per unit price) as much as domestic manufacture then they will continue to be a viable option...

[@vanmasterflash7153]

junk