GMC Jimmy 52" spring crossover steering

Hidden costs as well as work involved in the 52" front spring swap that is so popular on these old Chevy's. It is not a cheap 4-5" lift. It is rather expensive. This is an ongoing project that is still a ways from being completed. In this video I haven't even mentioned the fact that you cannot run the sway bar in the factory location. It can be made to work and it should. There is a noticeable difference without it. It should be fabricated to work especially for a daily driver.

[@diy4x220]

Good video. A couple times during the course of the video you state that the 52's move your axle forward. Just for clarification, they do not. If you used 52's with the factory hangers you'd actually move the axle rearward. The b52 kit corrects that with the options of moving the axle forward if you choose to. Moving the axle forward is what has caused your steering linkage interference. A simple solution based on your equipment I see in the video, you have an offset bent draglink. It doesn't have to be straight up and down. Roll the offset bend forward an you'll get the clearance you need between the two. I understand you moved the axle forward to gain tire clearance at the firewall. Pretty common, but, it does come with compromises elsewhere. Always something to keep in mind. Most changes effect something else so all should be considered prior. Happy wheeling!

[@juanfo7307]

If he moves the spring into one of the other holes, then the rear of the spring will hit the frame.

[@bradywilliams2666]

@@juanfo7307 I would say if you keep the factory shackle location then the spring will not hit the frame. Then you could move the spring back a couple holes and not have the tierod to draglink interference. For me I don't see the advantage in these springs. Just put a quality lift spring on.

[@jeffreyturner4534]

a tip: you can watch movies on flixzone. Me and my gf have been using it for watching a lot of movies these days.

[@roycegerardo9708]

@Jeffrey Turner Yup, been watching on Flixzone for months myself :)

[@joshuaatkins5197]

Ah yes, they good old snowball effect. I feel your pain. My project rig has sat in my driveway for 5 years now. At times I just want to throw the junk together so I can go play. But I've spent so much time engineering custom parts and mods that I've got to finish it right. Friends with hacked up rigs give me lots of grief. Then I'm fixing their junk moments later. SMH

[@rat_crispy1013]

I feel that I owe you a beer for this video! Definitely saved me a bunch of headache! Thank you.

[@vinskeeter]

I appreciate the honest assessment. I'm trying to figure out a plan for my 77 K10. I have a front 60 rear a 14 bolt and new 37" Bahas.

[@waynepickhardt4975]

Great video and explanations! That's a lot of expensive knuckle busting. You're right, lifts aren't as simple as advertised. I considered high steering on my 84 M1008/K30, but heard the same problems you're encountering so I stayed with the factory tie rod location.

[@foolsizecustoms6783]

I am still getting my rig built but I have a couple experiences to add from my 52/56 swap. This is all on a 77 K5 Blazer. Front Axle (Dana 60) 6 leaf plus overload 52" spring pack minus overload w/ DIY4X ez-inch for 1.5" forward axle movement and 6 degree shims to correct caster. DIY4X a-bomb bumper with built in b52 hangers, spring eye in forward most hole. DIY4X FUSH kit in stock location w/ 6" shackles. WFO Concepts double ended high steer arms for tie-rod behind the axle. Ballistic Fab 1" high steer arm spacers (necessary since tie rod was sitting on spring pack due to thickness of pack w/ ez-inch & shims). DIY4X spring plates that I had to extend slots on to run the 1.5" forward position on the ez-inch w/ shims. New, custom axle-side shock tabs w/ F250 towers for frame-side mount. This was kind of tricky because clearance is very tight with the tie rod behind the axle and the tall spring pack. Just got my steering box tapped for hydro assist and rebuilt so next step is seeing what kind of pitman arm I need to run (drop & throw). Overall, this setup resulted in moving the axle forward 2.5" with around 7" lift and 6-7" usable up-travel. Rear Axle (14 Bolt FF) 8 leaf plus overload 56" spring pack minus overload, flipped around so long side is towards front of truck (4" rearward axle movement). Ruff Stuff 3 position spring perches with springs in 1" forward position. DIY4X shackle flip, reversing brackets to other side of truck to run 56s w/ 6" shackles. Shocks moved to top of DIY4X spring plates with top of shocks mounted inside cab of truck behind rear seat. Ruff Stuff anti-wrap kit with laid-back style axle mount. Overall, this setup resulted in moving the rear axle rearward 3" with around 7" lift and 6-7" usable up-travel. As you can see, this is VERY involved and not for beginners. Also, not light on the wallet. Lots of fabrication, cutting, welding, etc despite main components being "bolt-in". Worth it? Absolutely, IF you know what you are doing and are committed to doing it right! Even with all the extras I am still under the cost of a new, off the shelf lift kit and my setup will have 15" travel front and rear. Can't beat that for the price.

[@alcyr5655]

Thanks for the very informative video. Bought a crossover steering kit off Ebay. Not exactly as pictured. Actually not even close. The part that upsets me the most is that between the exchange rate and shipping we are paying double the stated price, up in Canada. Oh well one step closer to getting 1 ton axles under the 80 Powerwagon

[@WeekendPursuitOutdoors]

DIY makes 1" blocks that allow you to move your axle mounting point up to 1.5" forward or aft, depending on which way you install them.

[@k5hoss]

Hey bud, I feel your frustration. I know it’s an older vid but I’m just now going through the stresses of a lower cost spring kit kinda vs 4 link lol. I did go with longer springs front and rear but Expensive springs to top it off. I’m running into so much stuff to do & im not a welder FAB guy so its blocking my good friends driveway to top it off. Stress is not supposed to be part of having a good time building our tucks in my opinion lol. Hope your trucks been fun after the bugs were worked out.

[@PaezEddie]

Awesome video. Thank you very much!

[@gearhead9943]

I love your videos. Very informative. I’m pretty new to carbs and would love to see someone who knows what they’re doing show me how they start their carbed engines. On this Jimmy and your Styleline - I’d love to see your full procedure from inside. What you do with the gas pedal, choke, etc. it would be crazy helpful. Subscribed!!

[@digitalventuremovement7680]

Usually if it's really cold outside pump the pedal 2 or 3 times pull the choke about a quarter to half way shit and start the truck. Then you let it run with the choke closed for awhile until the engine warms up a little bit and then you push it In. Very simple... No wires or computers to deal with! Lol

[@Dicks4x4Garage]

Nice video, thanks for the info!

[@flik02]

Very useful video for me personally as I just picked up a 79 Jimmy and was looking into basically the exact setup you presented. I have some fab skills, I'm very mechanically inclined and I have friends around to fill in the gaps. However, this has shown me how much of a non-weekend project this could turn into. Obviously I would account for having all the parts and tools laid out before I started, but little things like drive shaft lengths, axle movements, dropping the gas tank, pieces not lining up just right, are not things I would want to have to try and deal with on a daily driver over the weekend. This also helps because I currently live and work in Saudi Arabia so getting that one (or few) "little parts" needed to correct an issue that popped up, isn't exactly as easy as going down the street to find it. I still feel like this is one of the better "bang for you buck" setups and plan on looking into it further. This video is pretty much exactly what I was needing to see at this stage. Thank you for the video!

[@ericsscout]

I'm glad this has helped. That was the intent of this video and some others I have in the works. I would not attemp this on a daily driver over the weekend. Life happens amd puts projects on hold, sometimes longer than we want.

[@hudsonhawk0016]

I'm subscribed! I was considering the high steer on my lifted 84 K30 but hear nothing but complaints about the drag link and the tie rod making contact. I got rid of the 37's also because they were killing the king pins.

[@AlmostBlind]

Great Video enjoyed the information

[@redlinegarage4010]

take your rear leafs and 180 them will move your axle back4 inches then the 2inch you lose you game 2 inches

[@rickwygle374]

Great video. So many other do not go over the issues. I am still trying to figure out my steering and my draglink is only 1.5 inches above my spring.

[@VileMisanthropy]

Your tie rod is in backwards. You've got your spindle and pitman arm joints mixed up.

[@wacey2002]

The reason your shackle is so close is because Kurt does not recomend using the frame mount relocation like you did with the 52" springs. That is for He talks about that in a video he done called B52 q and a here on KZbin.

[@B450R]

OMG If you are worried about mounting your swaybar, don't worry about longer springs. You'll never use the travel. If you want to use the travel, you will want to pick up some 12+ lift height brakelines. Also, don't drive that thing with the T-case crossmember spaced down like that. You need more surface touching the frame instead of just some nuts. 1.5" square tubing the length of the crossmember would be better, distribute the load better. I hope you have the right pinion angle for a regular driveshaft, otherwise you need a CV joint at the case side. I know this is an old video but just figured I would add to it. Yeah, stuff adds up real quick. Personally I wouldn't have done any of the things you did to something that is a tow truck/ play toy. What you did is for those that want flex and don't care too much about road manners.

[@metalmulishasmith]

After you did your crossover steering was it hard to turn from a dead stop (or at idle)? I have a 74 k5 lifted 8 inches and i just finished doing my crossover. It seems hard to turn at dead stop (or at idle). Not sure if the box still has air in it or not.

[@KentuckyBackyardMechanics]

Don't know if anyone else pointed it out or not but your shackle angle in the front wouldn't have turned out so harsh if you would have left the shackle eye hanger in the original position

[@jeffn5549]

straight drag link will fix the hitting

[@andrewdewolfe2692]

Did you have to do any mods to your friend and while installing the Dana 60

[@physcooutlaw]

good write up

[@cobbstickers]

In your other video, you mounted the b52 bracket all the way forward and the spring in full front hole... Isn't this what caused the 2" forward movement that made steering bind?

[@johnhamilton6205]

Doing a 52” does that take away any towing factor with your blazer?

[@rockinbass01]

I plan on doing basically the same swap I might do a 2.5" shackle flip instead and short lift spring haven't decided. Will the 52s move the front axle at all If you leave the rear spring hanger in the stock position

[@ericsscout]

The front axle will stay in the same place as long as you use a bracket like the DIY's with multiple positions for the front of the spring.

[@loganshotrod4x464]

Those H1 wheels are pure evil, much better than those BS aluminum show truck wheels that have flooded the market. I stripped an 82 K30 for my Willys Wagon so I'm contending with many of the same issues that you are. I'm running a GM Dana 60 Front & I'd like to employ a steering system that doesn't tie off of the 4 upper king pin bolts. It's not a rare occurrence to see an OEM knuckle fail because of the stress on the upper king pin area, especially in cross-over/high-steer applications. Excellent build & video, thanks for posting!

[@ericsscout]

Go hydro assist or full hydro. Many people think full hydro is not legal but check your states laws. There's nothing illegal about it here. With just the high steer and 52's the drag link is angled forward instead of being straight across which I believe is contributing to the heavy steering. Full hydro is in my future. Oh and the H-1 with no balancing run down the road at 75 with only a litle vibration which is nice.

[@loganshotrod4x464]

Eric's Projects I definitely plan on running PSC Hydro-Assist in the future. My gut says the best fix for your steering & interference issues between the tie rod & the drag link might be to relocate the steering box a little further forward; just my hunch for what it's worth.I've been trying to find some H1 24 bolt bead locks in my local area, but I can't find anything. I basically want to run the exact same wheel & tire combo you have & I'm willing to go to Tahoe to get it. Did you need to have the back spacing changed, or are they essentially stock H1? Did you get all of your wheel & tire gear from Trail Worthy, or do you have a local hook up?

[@ericsscout]

I found the wheels on Craigslist locally. A lady had a set new in the box that I bought for $25 ea. I got a steal. The wheels are completely stock with the exception of the rock rings. The steering box should be moved forward as I believe that would help. When summer winds down it will be getting a full hydro steering and hopefully all issues will be solved and steering will be easier.

[@ericsscout]

The axles are a full with dually front and a standard 14 bolt rear with 3.5" spacers. If you didn't want to do spacers get a dana 70 dually rear and put on the single wheel 14 bolt hubs and you're good.

[@rickwygle374]

@@ericsscout what does putting the 14bff hubs on the HD 70 do? I run the 70 with no issues

[@porshabrewer8727]

In the rear you prob should of went with 56 inch springs and some easy inch degree shims

[@jacobellis8135]

if you did do it again, would you suggest blocking the rear instead of the shackle flip?

[@ericsscout]

No, I would still do the shackle flip. There is no axle wrap with the shackle flip like there is with a lift block.

[@lelandjewell1420]

I was told that you use the stock springs in front suburban springs in rear

[@jacobellis8135]

i cant get over how much your voice sounds like Merrick from "Merricks Garage"

[@ericsscout]

Thanks. I'll have to check out his channel.

[@fourny55]

With the shakle flip remember your pinyon angle changes also and need to shim or put new spring perches on. A problem I had.

[@ericsscout]

Absolutely right. I had to weld on new spring perches anyway since this axle I had in my 79 Scout before this. Being I was welding on new ones I did set the pinion angle.

[@fourny55]

I'm going to get the perches from diy4x.com for my 77 k20. Really bad vibrations

[@troyprince5521]

Why would you not leave shackle side in stock loc and move front side back to accommodate?

[@ericsscout]

+Troy Prince By moving the spring forward it accommodates for the larger tires by moving them forward so they do not hit the firewall. If I left the rear spring hanger in stock location the axle would be in the stock location allowing the 37's to hit the firewall alot. If you were to run a smaller tire it would not be as much as an issue.

[@4lowprince]

Good point. Like high steer but wanted my axle forward so I just did crossover.

[@REDXIII1331]

I have k10 that is already 6" in lift running 38" tires But I'm looking into adjusting the rear suspension and off blocks. Would the shackle flip be all I need ?? For stock rear leaf 52" ?

[@ericsscout]

The shackle flip itself won't give you enough to make up for 6 inches. You will still need a block but it will only be about 1-1.5" which is better than 6". You can get an extended shackle but the farther you push the back of the spring down, the farther the pinion will go up. Don't forget a flip will also move your rear axle forward a bit.

[@bradleybruss6224]

You can also Fab a new front mount, dropped of course, to adjust the height and eliminate that block completely. Use minimum of 1/4" plate steel to make the front hanger. Fairly simple design too with easy welding.

[@4-WHEEL-DRIVE]

OK HERE IS WHAT I THINK . YOU GOT TO BE HONEST HOW MANY TIMES OR HOW OFTEN YOU GO OFFROADING AND THINK ABOUT IT IF YOU REALLY NEED TO DO ALL THIS . IF YOU ARE NOT PLANNING TO DO SOME SERIOUS OFFROAD DON'T NEED TO GET YOUR SELF IN TO A HIGH STEERING .

[@Matthew-wn8oq]

Do you still have this rig?

[@turneynicholas]

or run a straight drag link

[@JustinKaufman-gy8py]

Why in the hell would you drill new holes for the frame for the front leaf rear hangers no wonder your axle is so fare forward just like I'ma guess curt from diy4x said with that kit and then leafs that axle could sit like factory but you went crazy drilling holes

[@ericsscout]

It is hard to steer from a dead stop even with the drag link in the forward most hole on the steering. I moved my tie rod to the factory location to accomplish the drag link location. I have a full hydro setup but it is not on. I think it will have to be put on to regain smooth steering. Hydro assist would help also.

[@metalmulishasmith]

Thanks for the reply, I plan on hydro assist sometime soon.

[@BIGTRUCK7.3]

since you did a shackle flip in the rear yeah it does move your rear axle forward to in but if it were me I would move the rear axle back to inches so it's centered in the wheel wells and doesn't look like your tires are hitting the fenders to me not moving the axle back just looks stupid

[@stanleykendziorski7964]

Shackle angles are way off, definitely should have went with 56" springs in the rear

[@ottisgoodluck2840]

What year an what kind of truck did u get your springs off of?

[@ericsscout]

Ottis Goodluck front springs are from the rear of an 80's suburban or could be any full size chevy of the era. The rear springs I used were from a 2000 Tahoe.

[@ottisgoodluck2840]

Eric's Projects are they gonna be exactly 52”? Is your truck driving better? After all this? I’m doing this B -52” co version to my 79 gmc truck.

[@ericsscout]

They are exactly 52's. You could do longer but other mods need to be made. It did drive better with the longer springs.

[@ottisgoodluck2840]

Eric's Projects I’m going for the flex. I got some off a 1/3 ton suburban. But, apparently they weren’t the right ones. Don’t k is if they are 56” or 52”

[@BrentBoere]

@@ottisgoodluck2840 many suburbans came factory with 56" rear springs, 1/2 ton or not. So, you need to be 100% sure that they aren't the 56" springs. To measure a leaf spring properly, you can measure from one eye to the center pin and then measure the other side and add them, or measure them along the spring from one eye to the other. Do not measure eye to eye at the highest point, you must follow the curve of the spring. It is very easy to measure a spring wrong and, when the difference is only 4", you can't be certain unless you measure.

[@donovanrobins6323]

lake Tahoe!

[@dreadenrodney3155]

Put tie rod on bottom of springs.

[@melissajenkinsmjhilligoss7849]

pitman arm is on backwards... pitman arm should be facing towards front bumper....then you wouldnt be have issues with the high steer

[@KentuckyBackyardMechanics]

Lmao that's actually kinda funny. It would be a pain in the butt to drive. You would have to turn left to go right

[@fullforce581]

Lol your worried about safety but u You have a nylon strap holding your gas tank lmao not hating just staring the obvious

[@ryanstout2027]

What junk