GG, that soft seal with high oil pressure is a no go. Those traditional seals were used for more than 70 years! Go with proven every time you can! Great intervention video! Congrats on the fix!
@nothalfassgarage3 ай бұрын
Gaskets or rtv, rarely both. In 1987 built a 440 bored 30 over, 2 piece rear main seal with side seals no rtv and still good today. Oil pan gaskets with windage tray and 7 quart oil pan, and no rtv.
@richardsmith-qy6vl2 ай бұрын
Im glad you got it i watch nicks garage and he is the mopar man he always uses factory style rear main seals and he freaks out when people use rtv with gaskets and seals.
@elwoodsummersjr5963 ай бұрын
Great job, engine sounds really healthy, I'm a Chevy man, but when i was younger lots of my friends had big block mopars, oil leaks never seemed to be an issue with factory seals . Love watching your channel ❤❤❤
@duathlete8273 ай бұрын
It's great that you've showed your work from beginning to end in the last two vids and not have broken the process down into multiple teaser vids as some do. Glad you figured it out and solved it with the two piece seal. Really a wise idea to have run the engine on the stand to find issues prior to installation. I had a 68' Charger in my youth but sadly, it only had a 318. It looked good though with being red, black interior and and a black vinyl top.
@1tojoАй бұрын
Enjoy watching your figure out your problems. I was never a Mopar person I love SBC but I had friends who would trade their first born for a good 440 block. Keep up the good work
@keithmacdonald58483 ай бұрын
double up your header gaskets, they never leak, been on my big block for ten years, just check your header bolts every spring,, good luck, the crazy canuck, winnipeg canada
@lonestarcj81323 ай бұрын
What a relief! I was so worried about that leak. I have full confidence in you make this Mopar something great!
@mikeanderson99222 ай бұрын
Always had good luck with the 2 piece seals been a mopar guy for over 30 yrs and always used the mopar seals
@markbrown62363 ай бұрын
I said old school when you were trying to decide which way to go with the rear main seal. Glad we were both right, good job.
@phillipcortel63303 ай бұрын
Put the old school seal in,no silicone. Nick's Garage did a whole video rear main seal on a big block rear main seal. Good for you folks! Happy you got the leak taken care of!
@zcam19693 ай бұрын
Nick put a piece of rope in a leaky seal 426
@TheFutura19643 ай бұрын
use the old-style seal, they work. Sounds great, it's hard to sleep when you have a lot of money into something and its not working right, feels great to get those problems fixed.
@stevehamilton94183 ай бұрын
Old school, the best way! Before throwing gaskets and sealants at the header flange, check the flange at each tube and make sure they’re truly flat…I’ve found many are not right out the box! There’s a chunk of flange between the outer tubes and the inner set of tubes that can be removed, gives more flexibility for sealing. Good luck!
@greggsvintageworkshop89743 ай бұрын
Great Job with the leak guys! She sounds awesome! Love the lumpy cam.
@matzrat50063 ай бұрын
Condensation from the engine not being run for very long. Sounds fantastic , happy engine tunes.
@Cstoreri3 ай бұрын
Nice job Danny I can really appreciate your patience!
@kimdearrington2583 ай бұрын
I have been working on a 383 with a friend of mine who is an excellent mechanic, and rebuilt many racing engines and other things, and we are restomoding a 1970 Dodge Challenger that has been a total pain in the ass and dealing with problem after problem with it. I hate Chrysler and Dodge products for a reason even though I know they made some really strong cars, I'm just a GM man by heart! We also had a rear seal leak, but the seal plate was broken and was the cause. We replaced that bad part and installed a two piece seal staggering the seal just a little bit on each side of the seem, and used RTV on it, and have not had any more problems with that yet.
@PatandDoopypoopy3 ай бұрын
I've had great luck using copper exhaust gaskets along with 'ultra-copper' silicone. I also separate/cut header flange so header can tighten up to ports individually. Lastly, I use studs instead of bolts whenever possible(many times a combo of both studs and bolts). Studs are great to hang/align header flanges.
@jessesager94603 ай бұрын
My gosh that big block sounds good!!
@chidrole3 ай бұрын
Old School always rules! 👍🇨🇦
@CJColvin3 ай бұрын
Amen brother
@HansenSpeedShop3 ай бұрын
great job guys! just watched all the engine videos!
@funnlivinit3 ай бұрын
DON’T USE RTV ON A REAR MAIN SEAL!! That’s your problem. The RTV in the groove behind the seal has no way to get out and distorts the seal. Plus, that tiny bit at the butt joint makes it impossible to seal. You must pull the crank (it can be done without pulling pistons and heads) and clean every bit of sealant from behind the seal. Clean all surfaces with acetone. Install the new seal dry! Use a SMALL dab of Gasgasinch on the butt ends. I’ve been building engines since the’70s. Before RTV. In my opinion it’s a scourge on the automotive industry. Gasgacinch is great for oil pans and valve covers too.
@funnlivinit3 ай бұрын
If you have trouble with the rubber sliding into position, use Isopropyl Alcohol as a lubricant. A tip from a windshield installer from way back.
@olddirtybastardgarage3 ай бұрын
Hylomar is real nice on the halves as well
@Mr95013 ай бұрын
Wow!....you guys use more RTV on one engine than I use in a whole year. Pitch the fancy aftermarket stuff and put the factory one back in...
@terryeustice53993 ай бұрын
Congratulations Danny and Olivia on the seal. Thanks for sharing! 💯👍👊
@bryandemore74863 ай бұрын
I've had best luck using a 2 piece viton seal kit with a thin film of silicone on the cap surface, a dot in the corners, and thin film on the side seals to help seat the cap. Also, some aftermarket billet retainers have had the seal groove machined too deep. I would use an OEM seal retainer.
@darrenbealeofficial3 ай бұрын
We found that some aftermarket rear-main seals had been off because of the age of the manufacturers tooling; also we also mandatory swipe pattern test on rear main seals and can add shimming under the outside perimeter of seal to to improve wipe the pattern/contact.
@jeffmckc20813 ай бұрын
I been meaning to say I have never seen a run in stand with the engine pointed that way, the brace you have the bell housing bolted to is used for a radiator support and the back end braces the Bell housing to the bottom, I guess if i works LOL. You're getting stuff done!
@larrysalomon16323 ай бұрын
Nice job. Sounds great
@pauldorchak11683 ай бұрын
Awesome Video! I've lost sleep over coming up with a solution 😮
@thatdudeinorange52692 ай бұрын
Seeing you stretch that seal so much and it didnt let go made me wonder if it could have stayed in one piece and streched over the crankshaft? But as so many already said, if the old way have worked for such long time there's no need going modern 🙂
@WildAzzRacing3 ай бұрын
Old school seal has been working for 60+ years!
@davidowen8883 ай бұрын
Excellent ! The Mope sounds Awesome 👌
@TheSaxon253 ай бұрын
Perfect wrap up Danny! Happy you don't have to tear that engine apart 🍻🤙
@romeoalphafoxtrot95173 ай бұрын
Outstanding! Onward and upward! That carb appears to be working great!
@BillyJoeJimBob283 ай бұрын
If you use that seal again (you have to cut it to put it on the crank right?) I would put a drop of Super Glue on the cut ends & glue them together on the crank 1st. It works surprisingly well. No oil on it of course. Then the rtv. 😉 Edit: nev mind. Danny.. "Sometimes ya just gotta go old school." 😎👍
@lisadaniels59963 ай бұрын
Great Job you two!!
@TheHord2 ай бұрын
Happy to hear the 2 piece worked out. 🍻
@68ratwagon3 ай бұрын
Awesome sounding engine 🤘
@davidreed60703 ай бұрын
You are going to have to loosen the mains to put the new seal in anyway.
@davevaughn73992 ай бұрын
That thing sounds good man it sure does
@billbeilman61573 ай бұрын
Factory style 2 piece. I raced big block mopars for years and the rear main seal was never a problem.
@OneManGarage3 ай бұрын
Good deal on fix and new shiny stuff isn't always the best
@rustybritches67472 ай бұрын
When you cut those split seals you can trim them to get the proper gap, kind of how you would gap rings. so if it was pushing up then it needed to be trimmed. Measure the crank journal seal diameter mating surface then measure the cap and block journal seal surface diameter without the crank installed but with the seal instead and cap torqued, measure the inside surface/lip of the seal so its a couple thousands looser, trim the end of the seal to get the desired ID, apply RTV and install.
@russabrams39823 ай бұрын
Glad to see the windage tray, I missed that when you built the engine .
@dgmiller123 ай бұрын
Put the old school seal in this time. Tried and true for 50+ years..
@joepimental6938Ай бұрын
Dropping the center of the crank journal onto the seal seam was an unlikely potshot.
@marctorigiani45583 ай бұрын
I would use the two-piece seal just put some silicone where the seals meet each other.
@matzrat50063 ай бұрын
maybe you shouldn't of put the RTV on the seal., looks like it leaked around the RTV.
@Livetowrench3 ай бұрын
Remflex hedder gaskets are great
@giuseppe8413 ай бұрын
This is not fuel injection Pump that carburetor, and then started. it idles and sounds so GOOD. You guys make a good team
@Gvelly3 ай бұрын
The only way to learn new things is by trial and error!! Things could always be worse.. youll figure it out! 🤟🏻
@barryk2533 ай бұрын
Olivia knows that a two piece is better than a one piece 👙🩱😂
@mzaccagnini71792 ай бұрын
I Agree with you totally!😊
@gilbertwashburn70953 ай бұрын
Happy to see it's working at Nick's garage he had one big block Mopar he had to replace it a times it was because of a line horn issue when they honed lying horned the man's have a great day thanks to the
@darwinfoster74203 ай бұрын
It was a bad crankshaft not the linebore .
@tonymorse71782 ай бұрын
I have loosened up all the mains -didn't remove- any but the last one (Chevy) but the seal was a 2 peice. Good luck
@gearheadted92102 ай бұрын
old is gold,never had a prob with a 2 piece seal
@mynameis633 ай бұрын
Good work man.
@GodisgoodLeoIneke3 ай бұрын
Looks like it sounds better 💪🙏✌️awesome♥️
@BelowAmbient3 ай бұрын
TOO MUCH RTV!!!
@gspot45363 ай бұрын
Forgot the WAY
@hooligangeneral3002 ай бұрын
Two piece and clock it.
@marshallbravestar19723 ай бұрын
I really really hope, that the block Mopar doin’ it very very well, and good for the Charger💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽💪🏽
@mansonmydog3 ай бұрын
Great job, POS 1 piece seal
@ws678ta3 ай бұрын
Right. Don't mess with success.
@happyinfidel13 ай бұрын
sounds really good.
@jasonbrommelkamp71963 ай бұрын
Nicks garage just had similar issue. Several remain seals tried. Believe he ended up using old rope seal to fix problems.
@robroten64463 ай бұрын
Gloves !!!! If it eats solvent you surely don't want to spray it on your skin so it is absorbed into the bloodstream. "Be kind to the old man you will one day be." - My grandfather
@jamesthetford25163 ай бұрын
I feel so much better about that I know y'all were highly upset with it and I don't blame you a bit hit sounds real awesome
@Anthony777393 ай бұрын
Watch Nick's Garage for advice.
@timothyhays18173 ай бұрын
Nick fought and fought a rear main seal. He finally fixed it.
@darwinfoster74203 ай бұрын
The crank was junk once crank was replaced it had no more leaks @@timothyhays1817
@olddirtybastardgarage3 ай бұрын
Definitely don't watch Nicks for advice..
@garywilson123 ай бұрын
i hade my fingers crossed so tightly hoping for no leaks, YAAAA!!!!
@frankc14303 ай бұрын
I would go back to the old school two-piece.
@idaho2ndgens2403 ай бұрын
Had trouble on my last build, a 261 cu.in solid lifter dual carb six banger in a 53 chev truck. Oil pressure and then oil leaks with the new one piece seal. So I tore it all back apart, changed the pump, went back to the old school seal. Been running it now for three years, problems solved. So stuff happens as they say, I would go old school and tear the whole thing down and re-do.
@rickhunt86033 ай бұрын
New carb......Excellant !
@douglasbuckland82803 ай бұрын
That old school stuff worked for many years! That new seal just had too many 'vectors for failure', in my opinion.
@frankc14303 ай бұрын
Rust on the cylinder is probably from lack of lubricating it when being rebuilt.
@McBuggs.3 ай бұрын
It couldn't hurt to go with the old school 2 piece seal - they have better rigid support and never were a problem. I wonder if the cylinder rust formed after the engine was built, before it ran on the engine stand. Somehow moisture (high humidity) built up on the dry cylinder? (Yeah, that cam gives it great sound and giddy up.)
@troyrarehale25173 ай бұрын
Well done.
@pauljanssen75943 ай бұрын
You should make a jig out of some metal stock run the bolts to the seal some studs and just slowly move it out
@williamperry90063 ай бұрын
I understand. You have to do what is best for you. The chicken box is nice and you will definitely not have a problem finding a buyer.
@alkennedy11243 ай бұрын
One little bitty grain of sand in the RYV can cause this, lol thanks BigAl California
@NJCarCruisecom3 ай бұрын
DUDE ! ! ! ! ! setup a shop vac for water and suck all the coolant out of the lower hose. P E A C E !
@melvinrawlings14573 ай бұрын
The surface rust is just from the moisture in the air. U have no worries there
@kennnethrohm44483 ай бұрын
I'm very curious if you didn't have the wrong 12 O'clock when you installed the rear main seal, it might have been on the side of when you installed the oil pan side 😊
@rustyogden51862 ай бұрын
Pull the plug on that cylinder and scope down in there to just make sure the head gasket isnt leaking. If not. Run it lol
@gilbertwashburn70953 ай бұрын
From my experience too much sealer is probably the problem it distorted it that's my opinion I had that problem and used a minimum amount of sealer and work the second time have a better day
@danielromero-zf4jl3 ай бұрын
Two piece neoprene seal, didn’t see any silicone on bottom of seal cap?? Love following you both👍👍👍👍👍👍
@garyhuss87282 ай бұрын
There is no need for RTV anywhere on that engine, it will always end up in your pickup screen and will make future repairs more difficult. Good quality gaskets and proper torqueing procedures will work just fine
@user-ro9sw1cm5d3 ай бұрын
Have You Guys tried calling Steve Dulcich for his opinion? He's built a lot of BB Mopars, maybe he has a solution?👍👍👍
@Anthony12valve440RB3 ай бұрын
The rust is just surface because of no lubricant on the walls you gotta remember thats bare metal it rust easy just wipe it with a clean blue paper towel with brake cleaner and oil it down and next time you run it YOU MUST put it under a load those rings need to bite otherwise you will have oil burning and blow by.
@rodvaughan86283 ай бұрын
You did what I would have done but I would have put a thermostat just to check your temperature
@Trex12682 ай бұрын
That new-fangled stuff never works out. Go with the factory rope seal and the factory block and you'll be fine.
@tedzehnder9616 күн бұрын
Where you cut the seal and RTVed the cut, maybe you should waited for the RTV to dry before installing the crankshaft? That wasn`t in your video.If you pushed it down it could have pulled apart and the gap stayed a gap.
@knoxmotorsports3 ай бұрын
Did you have any crank case ventilation via valve cover breather
@darwinfoster74203 ай бұрын
Never had a leak with factory seal
@donreinholz81213 ай бұрын
I would try the stiffer two piece seal. I would also use less RTV. There shouldn't be rust in there. Is that a bad head gasket?
@jmendo25463 ай бұрын
Whoo hoo you's done did it. I think u have the right diagnosis on both issue's. Permetex looked to be in seal groove and outside permetex may have put more pressure in one area causing an egg shape. Thank's for trying the one piece seal, now we know not to use it. And the rust made me think it didn't get up to temputure, but like a house window with hot tempeture inside and cold outside causes condensation, same idea.
@toddclark3322 ай бұрын
Yes sir 👍
@matthew-lh3zx3 ай бұрын
❤ Nice..
@stevemayo11753 ай бұрын
Nice Job you 2 I think it just had 2 Much Silicone on the 1st seal and caused it to leak
@bigbearvenom61452 ай бұрын
2 piece hard shell soft lip felpro seals is the way to go I put mine in after dipped in oil I never use RTV on main seals and would never use the one piece soft seal.
@drifterengines2433 ай бұрын
Use a stock retainer and a good felpro seal the brown one
@19734063 ай бұрын
Remflex header gaskets will fix you up!!
@peterfeltham52443 ай бұрын
The rear main seal can it be put back together with vulcanising glue before assembly or can you stretch it over the crank