Golden Ticket or Fools Gold? Decoding Small Block Chevy Casting Numbers for Budget Power

Today Cousin Mike ‪@landoncustomclassics‬ dropped off a Mystery Small Block Chevy that he's had for a while. We don't know a lot about it, but one things for sure..... this thing is going to live again in something around here.
GM and Chevrolet have a different casting number system, and the numbers that you find...... might not be what you think they are.
But it matters little, when the price is right, because all of them have the potential to make power, and this little small block chevy will make for something fun this winter.

[@terrygrover6440]

I just went through this numbers game with a sbc and we thought we had a 302 z 28 engine to find out that blocks been around in the trucks for years like you said , good video thanks for sharing bare 👍

[@BareRoseGarage]

Thanks Terry, and GREAT to see ya man! Yeah.... GM has their own little quirks when it comes to "the numbers game".... for sure...... lol.

[@stevenbelue5496]

The 010 blocks were in high production, I don't understand why folks say they're rare, chances are if you have a 70's 350 it's got an 010 block. I know a while back some guys disproved the nickel content with testing. I would still like some 3rd party testing to put it to rest. I liked the idea of the 010 020 alloy content and would prefer some more proof either way.

[@ChrisMcCutcheon-wj2pp]

The 010 I was told that was amount of tin in casting, nickel was weeded out in late 60s for machining purpose, great motors with good cam boss centering tho

[@edsmachine93]

Good job Kim. Good information here. Nice you're sharing your knowledge with people. Remember this, even the non performance can be turned into the performance versions with some machine work. Take care, Ed.

[@BareRoseGarage]

200% Correct Ed and dang good to see ya man! (good to hear you are feeling better as well).

[@musclecarmitch908]

Awesome! I always look at the date code vin number and suffix code to see what vehicle they came out of too!👍

[@BareRoseGarage]

Usually I do as well, but most of the time all I get is the engine..... lol. Good to see ya Mitch, and thanks man!

[@Midnightautorepair]

Its one of the first things i check...block casting and head casting!

[@BareRoseGarage]

Yep. It's the absolute best place to start! Thanks for stopping in Midnight, great to see ya man!

[@colehara]

Mine is a 2 bolt 010 block. I built it back in 83. Stuck it in a 3200 lb car and beat on it spring, summer and fall for 21 years with no issues. Took it out and rebuilt it again. This time with ARP studs instead of main bolts and put it in a 2500 lb car. Been beating on it now for 5 years and it's fine. Sure, I'd rather have a 4 bolt but I work with what I have. 👍

[@BareRoseGarage]

Boy I hear ya man. Those 2 bolts are NO JOKE and hold up just fine. The best thing about them..... people practically give them away because they think they are super weak and will come apart on you.

[@frankross5576]

2 bolts are better than the 4 bolts dont let people tell you any different. The cap design is what sbc lacks. But those extra two holes on the 4 bolts take away metal inside the block makeing it thin there. You will find more r bolts with crack crank houses than you will 2 bolts thats for sure.

[@nocturnusbostok2636]

The stamped numbers on the pad in front of the pass side head will tell you what the engine is and what it came from. There are also date codes cast into the heads, block, and intake that can help narrow things down.

[@BareRoseGarage]

They didn't start those "stamped in" casting numbers on the heads until the TBI, TPI, and Vortec heads (1986 & up). Same with the Blocks. From 1955-1985 the only thing you can really go off of (numbers wise) is that one in the rear, for the heads its under the valve cover..... and they are Casting Numbers not Year of Manufacture meaning it's the date the mold was made & used (like Ford does with their casting numbers as well). In 1986 they changed that numbering system a bit to add in the dates and what not by adding that flat spot on the head & block where it's Stamped into it after the casting process was done.

[@BareRoseGarage]

Generally speaking... if it's those 80's early 90's "date stamped" heads (none Vortec), I don't use them. I replace them with these older casting heads because those are the low flow "smogger heads" that don't flow. But the Blocks are still really good, and most all of them are a 4 bolt main. The dip stick is just on the other side is all.

[@nocturnusbostok2636]

There will be stamped numbers on that pad on the block in front of the head I guarantee. They started that when they started building the small blocks back in 55. There will be 2 sets of numbers, the smaller ones are the sequence number of the vin of the original vehicle. The larger one is the assembly date followed by the suffix code. The suffix code will give HP rating, original body type used in, CID, manual or auto. Clean that pad off and look. It's not just a TBI thing.

[@charlesfankhauser5499]

That tab under the passenger side head. The suffix code is the best for finding out what's what.

[@hubiesgarage]

The bread and butter 010 block...score! Yes, the metal in '69/'70, when they changed foundries and went to a higher nickel content was better. We have a '69 010 and a '71 010. In the timing chain valley is a 010 stamp (not related to the 3970010 Chevrolet part #). The 010 is the foundry stamp. The 010 is that newer foundry. We know our '71 010 is a 4 bolt because it came out of a Longhorn Truck and the trucks were 4 bolt. The '69 was from an SS350 Camaro and thinking it was probably a 4 bolt too. We have yet to drop the pans on both. Good engine you got there and a great building foundation! Cousin Mike is a great guy!

[@BareRoseGarage]

Man, you need to do a deep dive video on that Longhorn, and all the goodies that it actually had. Not much information out there on that uncommonly rare Chevy.... and just because I LOVE those trucks.... lol. Spot on man, and thanks a mill for that. I was holding off on that hidden foundry number until I got it all washed and completely tore down (to also find the cam numbers) but I'll definitely shout you out when I get to that point! And if you beat me to it in a video, I'll link it for you when I get to that point to try and throw some more views to you.

[@hubiesgarage]

@@BareRoseGarage OK, after a bit more research, time for me to eat some crow. I always surround myself with the old timers out there who know. When these guys are gone, it's like the library burns down. I talked with one of them and the nickel/tin (010/020 timing cover area stamp as an example) identifiers are a myth. The front timing cover number is nothing more than a foundry pattern # that is used for the mold in each particular block. I left my original post up instead of editing it.

[@BareRoseGarage]

@@hubiesgarage No Crow needed at all Jeff, and you are 200% correct man. The reason I look for these blocks is because the old school guys that BEAT THE SNOT out of these things looked for them. That Higher Nickle Story..... I live a couple states away from you and have never met you face to face (yet), but that is word for word the story and explanation I've got on it as well. Is it true? I don't know...... all I know is that the 00010 Block is very strong. And when you get right down to it.... really all of them are good..... lol.

[@nognomesgarage]

SBC forever! Mine is a two bolt main block, and I hammer on it hard and she just takes it. I have no idea what my horsepower is but it’s not a lot.

[@BareRoseGarage]

hey there No Gnome, GREAT to see ya man! Yeah I hear ya man. The 4 bolt is "better", but just because it's a 2 bolt doesn't mean it's garbage.... for sure. And if people don't believe that, oh well. It's those people that give them away because they are "junk"..... lol.

[@nicksnarski5973]

The pad on the rh front head area will tell what vehicle it came from.My experience is passenger car will be 2 bolt main C or K trucks 4 bolt main.Liked the vid.186s are 1969 1970 issued.

[@BareRoseGarage]

Thanks for stopping in Nick! yeah, from everything I'm gathering in this as well, this is a (like a lot of them from this era) pieced together to make whatever it was they were looking to gain. The cool thing is, with Chevy these things will work together, but now I have to put on the detective cap to see what it was they were looking to end up with.... lol.

[@Joe-xj2tb]

Where can i find info for the stamped #'s?

[@timwindsor03]

Awesome video brother. Thanks for sharing. Keep the content coming. Hope you have an incredible day. Much love and RESPECT brother . Stay warm

[@BareRoseGarage]

Thanks a Mill for that Tim and right back at ya man!

[@alva1370]

0010, yay I have a short video on crankshaft identification for SBC. The flex plate/clutch end of the crank has a pattern.

[@BareRoseGarage]

Spot On Brother! and I shared that video with my Community Page just now for you!

[@2HacksGarage]

Watching now, love these type of videos 🏁

[@BareRoseGarage]

Thanks man! I remember asking my dad about casting number and what not.... and he'd just roll his eyes and shrug. Why? Because they don't really mean as much as people think they do. Especially when it comes to these "Lego Engines" that you can bolt damn near anything on anything.

[@VinoRatRodbuilds]

Awesome very cool. 👍

[@BareRoseGarage]

Thanks Vino!

[@one62projects]

o man o man ...I'm looking forward to learning from you on this one....washing it off in 0 degree ....that stinks ....thanks for the videos

[@BareRoseGarage]

Hey there One 62, thanks for stopping in man!...... yeah I'm not looking forward to that part..... for sure.... lol

[@EverythingHorsepower]

That looks like a good piece I’d have been curious to see the rear crank flange they have a different shape depending on stroke I could tell you what cubic inch it is by looking at it

[@BareRoseGarage]

Hey there Everything, good to see ya man! Yeah I was saving that for Part 2, but after seeing all these comments I desided to go ahead and pop the oil pan off and get right into it... lol.

[@EverythingHorsepower]

@@BareRoseGarage I just watched the second part did you happen to get number off the crank

[@BareRoseGarage]

@@EverythingHorsepower I did (sorry it was written on my redneck palm pilot and I washed my hands) and when I looked it up that night it came out as the 327 casting as well. I'll be pulling it completely apart very very soon though in the following videos and explaining from that, my direction to either use it, or one of these 350 cranks to hit the torque & hp numbers I'm looking for in this build.... and how it factors into everything down to the overall curb weight of the car.

[@BubbaAyers1969]

Great video 👍

[@BareRoseGarage]

Thanks Bubba, and thanks a mill for stopping in man!

[@BuckDOESIT]

Nice score!!

[@BareRoseGarage]

Thanks Buck!

[@phillipthethird42]

Good morning, my name is Phillip. I am searching youtube for this cast number and your video is the first one to pop up. ( good video by the way) The reason I am searching this block number is because, I too, have come across a barn find Chevy small block that has this cast number and I'm trying to find out as much as I can. I will shoot some video on it and post it to my KZbin page as well. If you see it, please comment. I'd love to hear your opinion. P.S. I have subscribed to your channel to watch later. Perhaps I can learn something new.

[@BareRoseGarage]

Well hello there Phillip and thanks a million for stopping by man, I sure appreciate it. I did you one better and left the comment over on your video and shared it out for you on my Community Page to try and get others to comment as well! As for Casting Numbers.... with Chevy Barn Finds that gets a little tricky because you don't know what other people have done to it. Take this one for instance, it turns out to be a 350ci, 4 bolt main by the numbers, but someone has de-stroked it to a 327ci, a common & cheap Hot Rod trick back in the day for higher RPM power. Not good for a 4x4 pickup, but really good for a lightweight car. You see all that in the follow-up video to this one. Hope it helps and again, I sure to appreciate it man.

[@phillipthethird42]

@@BareRoseGarage Thanks again. I'll be in touch. Let talk more about this. I'll enjoy it and I think I've just made a new friend.

[@johnking9840]

I have a 1010 DZl 302 Chevy out of I believe 1969 Z28.

[@BareRoseGarage]

Sweet

[@codger8]

Good video👍 , I don't no about gold but you might strike oil on the garage floor with that a 350.

[@BareRoseGarage]

lololololololol

[@markgoulette5056]

The "high nickel" deal is a myth.....those blocks are no different than any other small block...

[@DaveMcLain]

On the Chevrolet engine there are almost always 2 castings numbers that are identical. 010,014 350 blocks, 186, 041 heads, 441, 993 heads, 062, 906 heads. Two different casting numbers, same part. There are no blocks that are "high nickel" ever! Are the 4 bolt main caps that are marked with an "N", nodular iron?

[@JRobert111111]

I've got a 67 Impala SS with the 327 4V and THM-400. It's got the camel hump heads (no accessory) and that's all I know. My grandfather bought the car brand new so it is very original. I had replaced valve cover gaskets in the past, but have never gone on a numbers mission to know more about it. Heck, there really wasn't even really any internet (early 90s) when I changed the valve cover gaskets last. All I really know is that it starts up fine and runs very well along with the transmission.

[@BareRoseGarage]

Very nice!

[@ate71622]

Its good that you touched on the 010/ 020 myth. I'M sure Bill Jenkins or Smokey Yunick would of made a point of selecting these blocks back in the day.

[@BareRoseGarage]

Yeah it never meant a whole lot to me, but it's odd that I can sell an 010 core block easier than I can sell a running 2 bolt main. And most of those guys that are buying them up, would be totally happy with even a 305. But everyone wants those numbers lololol.

[@kellyh4035]

I've heard the high nickel talk for over twenty years. A tip for if you are salvaging a 350 for a build, most 3/4 ton and up pickup trucks have them. 4 bolt mains that is.

[@BareRoseGarage]

Yeah that whole high nickel talk for me is neither here nor there for me really, but I do know that the 0010 blocks are thicker and stronger than a lot of them. As for the 2 bolt 4 bolt debate? I've heard that a 2 bolt will handle up to 5-600 hp with no problems and that's really pushing the limits on my wallet, so a 4 bolt main is more of a "bonus" when I look at these lolololol. Oh... and another cool thing about those 3/4-1 ton trucks, most of them have the hydro-boost master cylinders that are ultra easy to retro fit into these old cars and trucks, and it's a but space saver! That and everyone wants a 1/2 ton short box, so you can generally pick them up on the cheap!

[@kellyh4035]

@@BareRoseGarage after '82 in a 3/4 hydroboost is harder to find. 1 ton Vans and r.v's is your best chance to find that. Also camper or trailer special models usually had them in c/k20. All 6.2 garbage diesels ran hydroboost because of the low vacuum.

[@Not_Built_For_This_World]

I've always heard too that 2 bolt will handle a ton of power and the only thing a motor with more than 2 mains really helps with is durabilty if you're running high rpm muscle, or high torque towing applications. The old "AMC straight 6" had 7 bolt mains😳 and were also balanced from the factory. Those are the 2 main reasons most people speculate they were so bulletproof. *_Very little_* vibration.

[@BareRoseGarage]

Exactly right and there is debate on all sides about the 4 bolt as well as to it actually being weaker because of the additional holes in the same sized main caps. Bottom line though, the average person just looking for a good running and durable V8 will never reach the power limits of the 2 bolt let alone what the 4 bolt is claimed to hold. The biggest thing with these SBC (not the 400 though) is that they are internal balanced so they don't suffer from crank walk at high rpm. That is why the Ford counterpart (5.0l) has the reputation of splitting down the center under extreme HP and RPM. Internal Balanced Engines are striving for that Inline perfect balance that keeps them alive and strong. Thanks for stopping in man, sorry for the late reply it's been a rather busy few months here.

[@Not_Built_For_This_World]

@@BareRoseGarage Yeah, I can see how that would be a valid argument. Since the mating surfaces are the same for both, more potential failure points would logically mean there is more chance for failure, at a certain point.

[@rickemerick362]

Hi sir just seen your video 1 yrs later sorry sir 010 means 10 percent nickel so lucky nub is always higher so the 030 is your best sir 😊😊😊

[@UnfinishedProjectDartSport]

🌹

[@BareRoseGarage]

☝

[@DynoPete]

all 010 blocks are a 4" bore ,

[@philthelawnman]

I know this is ayear old. However if any one fids a 010 and the number is upside down that's 90% that it's a 4 bolt.

[@Joe-xj2tb]

Preciate the info - what about the one on the pass side fronti cant find any info

[@BareRoseGarage]

This one doesn't have the stamped numbers below the head.

[@Turningwrenches85]

Learn something new everyday on the decoding

[@BareRoseGarage]

Thanks Turning!

[@dpierson489]

All you guys think that you know it all! The 010 came 2 bolt that came in the Corvette and the 010 came in most of the 3/4 ton early trucks and the DZ302 the same goes for the 880 86 up came the same way.

[@drdab_]

041 heads are same as double humps but with accessorie holes

[@trope5105]

ive seen way mroe 4 bolts blown up than 2 bolts

[@JasonsGarargeandrvrepair]

them 010 could be anything.......

[@BareRoseGarage]

Boy I hear ya man..... lol. How many times have you come across someone that has said, "I know it's a 4 bolt 350, because of this" lolololol.

[@dannydurham5716]

You should try a PMI test

[@delcole8321]

I have 2 one 4 bolt main and one 2 bolt main the 4 bolt is bored 40 over the 2 bolt is 30 over the 2 bolt is in my 67 rs Camaro

[@jacquelinechellis4036]

Four bolt mains can crack thru outer bolt and two bolt will not cause there's more meat in the block. The crank can flex more without failing the block but main bearings could wear faster in high out put engine. I gotta main stud girdle and I think it's overkill but it would stiffen up either 2 or 4 bolt. Also a 2 bolt can become a splayed four bolt the angle of the outer bolt is better for the block.

[@bobwilson758]

Bunk - just a sand cast number , unfortunately no more , no less . Disappointing but fact .

[@gardnercolvin7409]

It's a 350 four bolt main

[@BareRoseGarage]

That's what it started as, but it's had a few fingers in it for sure.

[@phillipthethird42]

It's official. I'm the proud parent of a bouncing baby four bolt main. I am soo happy. Have a cigar on me. Lol. I'm am letting you know before I post the video.

[@BareRoseGarage]

Sweet! Looking forward to it man!

[@jasonbrewington4054]

Why didn't you bypass all the farting around, and just very simply read those suffix numbers off the front of the block right in front of the passenger side head.? That tells you what the engine was in, whether it was a two or four barrel originally, what the horsepower rating was, and what transmission was behind it. So there's really no mystery when it comes to identifying Chevy engines. Everyone is just looking at the wrong numbers.

[@rsmith3033]

i have a 1955 poss.56 sbc with canister oil flr. i have no clue ist value would u have any idea $

[@BareRoseGarage]

Yep that's an original 1955, 265 SBC where it all started. As for how much it's worth..... to someone that's doing a Resto, you might get a bit of change out of it. But most people Hot Rod a Tri-Five Chevy so it's a limited market. Pretty cool though

[@deanstevenson6527]

🥝✔️

[@BareRoseGarage]

👍

[@10-9USMC]

I’m looking for a 327 for a 1968 Camaro.

[@BareRoseGarage]

Sweet!

[@michaelangelo8001]

"chevy" doesn't manufacture engines.

[@BareRoseGarage]

True in the long run of things.

[@jasoncardoza6375]

The better blocks are the single piece rear main mid to late 90s blocks from trucks and other hd vehicles and use vortec heads. 010 LT is the best from the 010s but harder to come by. Unless you’re building a vintage era correct hot rod engine, you’re wasting your money. I make serious money selling that stuff but in the real world newer roller blocks make more power cheaper and easier. Vortecs flow more air stock than 202 fuelie heads with $1000 put into them. That’s just a fact. You’re messing with old technology which is ok, but wasting money

[@BareRoseGarage]

I hear ya man, and now that everyone is LS swapping everything the price of the Vortec Blocks has REALLY come down from where it was making it even easier to get ahold of now.

[@YourMom-mq4zc]

I would think z28 302 with high horse power would have angle plug 202 heads. Yes?