GoPro : Dusty Payne - Honolua Bay 01.18.16 - Surf

[@vantheman3857]

Have to say i got one of my biggest cleanest best barrels of my life out there. It was about three to four feet about an hour before dark the swell was supposed to hit the next day but it came a little early I'd been surfing mid late day in slightly choppy conditions having a great time cuz it kept the crowd down a little bit watching everybody else hike back up the cliff calling it a day I decided to stay out for a somewhat solo sunset mission then it happened the swelled jacked the tide changed and the evening glass presented itself within 30 minutes I was surfing a different animal six to eight foot Hawaiian Style barrels. I nailed "the one" outside with a mellow take off then it rolled into the cave and set up pretty much like this wave. Funny thing is life happens when you least expect it as well as surfing I remember at the condo trying to talk somebody into go surf with me but everybody was burned like it's blown out swells coming tomorrow and over it and I was like okay solo mission. I'm just going to go wet. Usually when I come in from a session I'm drinking water having a snack making a phone call turning some music on. Nope not this time I did not say a word to anybody or myself and drove back to the condo in pure silence for 15 minutes straight wondering what the hell just happened ? When I walked in the door everybody asked me how it was I guess by the look on my face I did not need to say a word to rub it in they just knew. Also cuz it was cranking at the little fun break outside the condo at dark. No footage to prove it only me, the kids inside the Kee kee bowl and a big beer belly local on a bright yellow longboard know what really went down that magical uncrowded Sunset session. So I guess this comment that turned into a story..and the moral of the story is just go get wet you never know what might happen.

[@5TA1KR]

I read it. Thanks for sharing your experience

[@elb2018]

Meanwhile, van the man is still fast asleep, rolled over to change hands without missing a stroke

[@kuppdaballsstrokedastaff429]

Facts. Some of my best sessions came from forcing myself to go out in shitty conditions

[@vantheman3857]

@@elb2018 ok dude, must suck to live somewhere where you've never experienced drastic swell, tide change and conditions. I respect your jealousy LOL

[@juufro8952]

Amazing. I hope to score there one day

[@deanlapointe7017]

Simply amazing. Such a cool spot

[@JohnnyAloha69]

What a great ride! Honolua bay is a great spot but not for newbies, lots of dangerous reefs and rocks.

[@fuhrfhrei3441]

Yessir just cut my foot the other day it hurt lol. It was cause someone snaked me

[@josivaldocruz8119]

os vídeos são muito bacanas!!!!! valeu brother

[@williamhr9919]

Perfect wave

[@WaterBucket]

everyone needs to gtfo out his way

[@jimtaylor2836]

Awesome footage...thx!! How long is the paddle out?

[@ptolemyhoran6833]

0:57

[@xli2117]

So good!

[@keithdaris6537]

so sick.

[@braedenlogue7626]

That’s like deep deep Honolua

[@scottiheadsa1709]

That was so sick. Full speed hahaha Mac, do it again

[@jaysonfranswa3818]

Epic vid. what a wave :)

[@ThePerpetualStudent]

So deep.

[@jorgec.3698]

Damn. you can spot the rocks underneath, some of them pop up. Always wondered how the riders, skilled in this case, avoid the other surfers on their way.

[@justtowatch111]

Very small weight transfers from heel to toe and front foot to back foot turn the board. Once you get good at surfing you don't even think about it, you decide where you want to go and go there. The only variable is the wave itself, if it does something unusual then you can be in trouble.

[@miller1theone]

Anyone else spot the Shark!! At 1.00 Min mark - you can even see its tail thrust to get through the wave

[@vantheman3857]

No shark dude. Those are boils created by the shallow reef in that section.

[@kuppdaballsstrokedastaff429]

This didn’t age well