Climbing the Grand Wall (5.11a A0) in Squamish. The Sword Pitch. To see the full video check out • Climbing the Grand Wal...
Пікірлер: 352
@transientdreams10 жыл бұрын
I have an 8 foot ladder. Anything out of my reach with that stays just as it is.
@aspire2inspire410 жыл бұрын
ROFL dude
@JohnSmith-wo1hu10 жыл бұрын
My feet were tingling while I was watching this. I don't see the appeal.
@transientdreams10 жыл бұрын
Nicholas Gregoire You are fortunate. When I watch the MOST extreme freestyle climbing, my feet feel like they being beaten by thick, bamboo sticks. I kid you not!
@reddeadjuju2 жыл бұрын
🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣👏✊
@11Bulletstopper8 жыл бұрын
Daaamn bro, you must have been gripped out of your mind not even being able to hang on the anchor...and fuck the people talking crap about grabbing the chains...if you can reach'em after a heinous layback, fair game.
@LeadBeIIy9 жыл бұрын
Ha, my first lead of the sword almost ended exactly like this. I got my whole arm through the chains but I was so drained from that last layback and the chains were so slick that I just barely managed to get my personal anchor onto the chains before my arm gave way. I think they're perma-oily because everyone ends up grabbing them with sweaty hands.
@isaacmartin69842 жыл бұрын
Chains have to be oiled or they'll rust
@gdog90102 жыл бұрын
Or just get a stainless steel chain...
@anthonymendoza13272 жыл бұрын
My memory of the belay was clicking into the bolts (no chains 40 years ago) and getting settled into my belay seat. Then I looked around. Oh my God! What a view. I had been so focused on climbing for the last 300 feet that I had no idea where I was. It was incredible. I still get shivers from the thought.
@bshandro11 жыл бұрын
haha climb this pitch then comment on grabbing the chains
@user-fs5bg1xj8t2 жыл бұрын
People that just sport climb Don't understand what comes into play when you are trad climbing a multi pitch like that... you can't risk as much, ethics can go f*** themselves
@BonnChnd2 жыл бұрын
I thought you did great!
@tallasianguy422 жыл бұрын
Chains are meant to be grabbed. And yes, I have done this pitch.
@Nuttyirishman852 жыл бұрын
@@tallasianguy42 footy or it didn’t happen.
@tallasianguy422 жыл бұрын
@@Nuttyirishman85 it's funny, we were about to bring our film crew and stylists out and post some sick vids to the 'Gram but then we realized it was 2004.
@TheCanadianBubba2 жыл бұрын
Lived in Squamish many years, only ever took the trails. The last time descending I fell and started leaking all over the place. Cannot imagine climbing the faces, you that can and do are in incredible condition. Thank you for sharing this !
@seanieizcool2 жыл бұрын
Leaking? Shit?
@TheCanadianBubba2 жыл бұрын
@@seanieizcool Yes, shit, red shit all over the fucking place.
@seanieizcool2 жыл бұрын
@@TheCanadianBubba oh you were bleeding. My bad lol.
@MotherAlgorithm2 жыл бұрын
Don't let the jam out
@evanbarnes99843 жыл бұрын
Damn dude, that put me right in the headspace I occupy when leading trad. There's nothing quite like the thrill of pumped out exhaustion with a background of mild terror!
@4thlinerferlife11 жыл бұрын
The sword pitch is so slick from all the years of acents I am glad I got the Split Pillar pitch on my lead. Thanks for the vid. Been a few years since I have been on this climb.
@kentonanderson30896 жыл бұрын
lol "i think someone oiled them", has to suck to fall holding the chains xD glad to see you were fine
@Kragatar8 жыл бұрын
1:44 That's what she said.
@tommym8757 жыл бұрын
The haters coming out hard in the comments section! I know the feeling of being to pumped to hang on to anything and knowing you're going for a ride!! Awesome work!!! Great video!!
@dereks70612 жыл бұрын
My thinking - hmmm, he’s not far from the anchor… must not be too bad of a whipper. With each step up… my hands started sweating myself and seeing how far the set places trad anchor was… you got balls of steel and climb like a boss. Great job, and surprisingly smooth fall lol hope you’re having a great year (in 2022!)
@fatalfrizzl10 жыл бұрын
Got to love them master cams
@Mrdevs9610 жыл бұрын
fuck dude this looks nuts. Props for filming in BC, some of the best spots in the world! the views are always incredible
@bretb87996 жыл бұрын
Did some beginner climbing with Boy Scouts this year. It was the hardest thing I've ever done. Anyone who climbs anything anyway is a stud in my book.
@Lucuskane11 жыл бұрын
Awesome climb, good fall. Beautiful rock quality.Thanks
@michijimc97538 ай бұрын
Stood at the base of el Cap and watched tiny little colored specs climbing waaaay up on the wall. Anyone who climbs rock walls has my absolute respect. Watching this completely reaffirmed my lifelong rule to live by. If I get over 8 feet off the ground it will be only in something made by Boeing or Douglas Aircraft, period.
@mikebarter38712 жыл бұрын
did that pitch 25 years ago just relived the adventure
@lifeisgood0708 жыл бұрын
wow.... the gear held. Epic gear placements :p :)
@torreyintahoe3 жыл бұрын
epic? perfect cams.
@ronlawrence50216 жыл бұрын
I love watching these rock climbers using their gear. They find a crack that is separating a 1000 ton slab of rock. And what do they do? Trust their lives in a little tool that essentially acts as a wedge between the two slabs!
@masonicmachine5 жыл бұрын
Not one but 8!
@josiahdood11 жыл бұрын
Weeee! Let's see it in regular motion too!
@chipper4422 жыл бұрын
All set. I’ve climbed a few times and was scared the entire time. I totally enjoyed climbing up the “side” anchoring in and repelling, but for some reason, trying to climb the face made my knees knock every time.
@SethDRiddle10 жыл бұрын
Heart stopping. Glad you're okay!
@raymondnavarro97982 жыл бұрын
Balls of steel... skill and courage man.....I can have all the chains in the hardware store and still won't be able to do what you guys do...kudos to you....
@DemolitionPaintball10 жыл бұрын
wish it wasnt slow mode
@bshandro10 жыл бұрын
well DemolitionPaintball you are in luck... go to 27:00 in this --> Climbing the Grand Wall (5.11a) in Squamish, BC (GoPro helmet cam)
@dancer13 жыл бұрын
28:00
@dreads95363 жыл бұрын
@@dancer1 Yet still ruined it with captions.
@dancer13 жыл бұрын
@@dreads9536 yeah like wtf he doesn’t know how to make a vid
@FCBayernFan8511 жыл бұрын
I have some serious respect for rock climbers. You hands and callouses are comparable to the points on my ice tools! haha
@jogonabandeja614510 жыл бұрын
I think i shit myself watching this
@levermanna11 жыл бұрын
Man I wish I had the means to get out and do this! Looks like indoor is my only option lol nice climb Bret
@Madmindman11 жыл бұрын
The caption makes this so much better.
@bshandro11 жыл бұрын
thats rad, in contrast we read every comment on MP and sewed the climb up with flexible cams... and at the end of the day feel adventurous
@mountainssea96422 жыл бұрын
Holy cow. So intense.
@BushCampingTools2 жыл бұрын
MAN! What happened when u grabbed the belay chain, were u just so pumped? or something else? Fantastic video felt like i was there!
@partykrew6663 жыл бұрын
Dude that layback looks heinous. If I'm forced to layback something, I'm definitely not having a good time 🤣
@jonathansummerfield83903 жыл бұрын
Wow that Granit is beautiful!!
@JohnDoe-xu2vx Жыл бұрын
Wonder how often climbers wish they were safely on the ground....terrifying
@blacksun3211 жыл бұрын
Chain oilers are out to get chain grabbers, beware!
@williemash10 жыл бұрын
What is going on with the extra carabiner you have on the pro at 1:48? It looks like a double length sling over a horn left of the arete, which makes sense. Did you have both of them racked on the double-length, then decided to leave the extra when you looped the horn as a natural anchor? Thanks, just curious.
@bshandro10 жыл бұрын
W Mashburn It is a 60 cm sling over a horn. Yes two biners on the sling when racked to double as a draw when needed, which usually just stay on the sling after being used on a horn unless a shortage of biners is anticipated.
@sonnydean31877 жыл бұрын
Cool video. Those who partake in this sport must maintain there wits about them. I personally could not do it. My fear of falling would overtake me. :-)
@g.e.b.81592 жыл бұрын
It's not a sport. A real sport won't put your life in jeopardy.
@rainbowGZUS72 жыл бұрын
@@g.e.b.8159 Football isn't a sport then cause one wrong fall and your braindead
@Dexter_Morgan.2 жыл бұрын
@@g.e.b.8159 if it's in the Olympics it's a sport (and even if it isn't in the Olympics that doesn't mean it's not a sport) also have you never heard of football boxing mma hockey skiing or snowboarding all of which are sports and all of which can cause serious injuries or death
@mellifont96 Жыл бұрын
@@g.e.b.8159 ever heard of extreme sports? There’s a shit ton of them at this point. Google it.
@1over1372 жыл бұрын
When I watch these climbing videos I always find it difficult to work out what angle the rock is at. I get it that photographers are always wanting to exaggerate the steepness. This video is obviously someone with an action camera so can't be that. However if you watch something like "Free Solo", there are hardly any camera angles showing the horizon. Every shot is tilted to show the section of wall he is on as vertical. It took me a while to realise it's not vertical, it is terrifyingly steep with many vertical sections and the slope probably just makes the fall more painful. If you look at shots from the bottom of El Cap, it looks like the first section is vertical and the upper wall is over hung by 20*. When in reality the bottom section is laid back 30* and the top cliffs laid back 10*... with many vertical and overhung parts. Sometimes it takes you watch the ropes and how they hang, or watch how the climber uses their shoulder and hips against the wall, suggesting there is some gravity holding them against the wall.
@1over1372 жыл бұрын
I suppoose the question is, what difference does it make? You are still going to die if you miss place your step and don't have a rope and to avoid falling off, you really will have to get down against the rock and climb up it as if it was vertical. It's just that anything i have climbed where I know I can take a foot hold and lean into the rock, lie against it and take my hands off is much more comfortable than to literally be hanging like a boulder problem. The slope is steep enough, if you even slide one foot, you won't stop. But it still gives you a little gravity on your side to keep you on the wall. Or am I miss reading this? Highest thing I climbed was a slate cliff of 70ft when I was 15. No ropes, no gear. Stupid, risky, especially as it was vertical and the upper slate holds where actually full of wet grass and mud which I didn't expect and could have cost my life. So I'm no expert.
@whimseyOFC2 жыл бұрын
I have a great challenge for you Paul. If you have a refridgerator or a smal moveable closet in your house, or something other you know is vertical, place it in the middle of a room, and use your phone to film it. Start holding the phone at floor level, and film straight towards the legs of the closet. Now start moving towards the closet while keeping the camera level with the floor, and filming the closet legs. Onc you are 9ft or so away stop moving. Now tilt your camera upwards so you can film the top edge of the closet. I am willing to bet you money that it is not going to look vertical as vertical, but more sloped, like some of the close photos of el capitan does. I think to truly appreciate how steep and vertical el cap mostly is, you need to go there and see for your self. When it comes to the filming of Free Solo, of course they are going to use dramatic camera angles and some trickery here and there for even more dramatic effect. But from my understanding, you seem to try to discredit, or gaslight, which I find a bit odd, and kind of disrespectful. If you want to try to gaslight someone, you best be sure you have outmanned the person in question with a greater feat. If not, it's just pointless and makes no sense. I say that because most pictures of any wall or near vertical hill, will not look vertical at all. If you watch cross country skiers skiing up an alpine slope, you will get what I am saying. On camera it looks like you could run up that hill. In real life it looks near vertical, and nere impossible to get up at all On a final note, you bring up boulder problems. El capitans boulder problem is probably on of the scariest ones out there, seeing as you have to either dynojump or literally fall off the wall controlled to hit the proper set up with your ninjakick.
@whimseyOFC2 жыл бұрын
Also, lense must be wide angle for it to have the most dramatic effect when filming the closet
@1over1372 жыл бұрын
@@whimseyOFC I wasn't "gaslighting". I just realised most footage delibrately makes it look more vertical than it is. As you point out, camera lens do odd things, both promoting and hiding the true angle. Even looking at the topography of el cap there is a significant, non 90* gradient. But I've stood above a 30* scree slope in the mountains and choose to back-track a mile to avoid going down it. I understand that anything laid back less than 45* is equivalent to vertical. I also understand there are a "lot" of unavoidable vertical parts and overhung parts. I'm not belittling the achievement. I'd make it up the initial 10 foot of 30* laid back and freeze. I know my limits. I lost the "balls" from my teenage years after I matured. The other thing that strikes me watching these videos and why I can't do it, is my feet tingle and twitch. I've felt it with heights before, the feeling you can't trust you limbs, but it's literally like they aren't under my control. They fiss and burn with nerves and crumple. While I would like to feel I could train myself to overcome the fear, I wonder if my hippocampus would agree at 47. That said. I suffer depression. Watching these videos challenges me. It challenges tweaking my anxiety forcing me to control it while my feet crawl and twitch. It also has given a "sport" option that I can do, in a gym setting. I can also include my 5 yo daughter and make it a bonding exercise. I'm going to take her to the local climbing gym, make it about her to start with, she badly needs confidence training and the ability to pause, relax and think things through. Surely a kids climbing bolder wall with a huge big mat like jumping on a bed is a perfect thing?. But I can have a go too. ;) Maybe I can use the descenders and "fall practice" to stop my feet buzzing. So apologies I sounded like I was belittling things or gaslighting.
@1over1372 жыл бұрын
@@whimseyOFC When I was about 16, as the tree climber I was I choose to ascend a "conker", horse chestnut tree in autumn. Jump on a main limb to shake dozens of conkers loose for my friends below to race around and collect. The main limb was about 30ft up and about 6 inches thick. The upper limb I had my hand around was 1 inch thick. The lower 6 inch limb broke away and fell. That left me hanging in free air 30ft up from a 1 inch thing branch which was bending excessively. I immediately shuffled to the root of that branch and started calling for help. The main tree trunk was 6 or 7 feet from me I couldn't reach it. I looked down and as this tree was on a building site, my landing zone turned out to be a broken pile of concrete blocks and bricks. I noticed in response to my calling "Help!", my "friends" had all got on their bikes and fled. At first I paniced, cried out for help, felt like wetting myself. But it quickly became apparent, nobody could help me, my grip would not hold long enough. I looked at the main trunk, a sinking feeling as I'd never tried anything like it before, but if I could swing to it, I could catch it with my legs, I'd be practically upside down, but, ... it was my only choice. I made that swing. I grabbed the trunk between my legs, wrapped it tight, moved my hands and slowly, inch by inch rotated around it to be above it. You can imagine the sigh of relief. Dropped back down out of the tree was easy. I thought it was only in emergencies I would understand that level of thought, decision and commitment to implementation, but I took up paragliding and feel I've saved my life repeatedly many times now :) I hope I continue to do so. Live, love, hope or heal.
@tomwolfe198311 жыл бұрын
Cool, you got to do it all over again. Mike Barter you're full of it. There was so a guidebook, a yellow covered paperback with sweet hand drawn topos. I don't remember chains but I do remember the two pitches of old fuzzy marine rope used to hand over hand it past the rivet ladder -- I imagined this as the cord that dangled the Sword of Damocles, ready to break at any moment.
@sushiman121212122 жыл бұрын
Hola
@thewhistler977511 жыл бұрын
Haha, you did the same thing I did. You put your camera on the top of your helmet instead of the side, so it bangs against the rocks when you climb too. Still I like that angle better then on the side.
@calebmallory459510 жыл бұрын
Kept thinking this was a "ground fall" which is unsurvivable at that height...
@bshandro10 жыл бұрын
There are survivals of skydiving accidents when the parachutes doesn't open... I would say that it is highly unlikely instead of unsurvivable.
@calebmallory459510 жыл бұрын
Bret Shandro Ah yes very true, pardon my choice of words.
@ryanketler57429 жыл бұрын
Bret Shandro in the cases of skydivers surviving huge falls, the parachute opens enough to slow the fall. In this case the climber would die 100 %. It is a straight free fall of a couple hundred feet.
@kvltizt6 жыл бұрын
A woman survived a free fall from a disibtegrating passenger jet at 33000 feet, so yeah, you can survive falls that are considered 100 percent lethal. However, the chances are so slim that you still call it a 100 percent fatal fall.
@NinjaBenification11 жыл бұрын
so you had to climb it again, but with an oiled hand? sick vid buddy, iv never had a pop at anythin that high, the view looked epic!
@scherenschnitt63336 жыл бұрын
Wow. Thats so exposed. Good placing of the Friends
@Buchstabensuppe7511 жыл бұрын
wow cool video. i´m new into clean climbing and i couldnt believe that a small cam like that could take a fall of this size :)
@bman60655 жыл бұрын
It's not that small
@subjax111 жыл бұрын
The next pitch (that starts at those chains) is a mandatory A0 bolt ladder. Most people link the two pitches into one, so by any reasonable definition it's an A0 pitch anyway... but more importantly, who gives a shit?
@jefffski12 жыл бұрын
i remember the epic battle with that corner. You did great.
@mitchellsurtees760110 жыл бұрын
snap man what went wrong? did your hand slipp off of the chain?
@bshandro12 жыл бұрын
Mike, where there chains there 25 years ago?
@tested1232 жыл бұрын
ya i drove by there a few times
@johnbrown57872 жыл бұрын
how do u get down
@ludmilascoles11952 жыл бұрын
Gee I think I put in some of the piton on scars on that one back in 84
@2katzrool2 жыл бұрын
amazing! i’ve always admired climbers
@MrKankuamo11 жыл бұрын
The slow motion protected my from shitting my pants :)
@Fogmeister Жыл бұрын
OK that was weird. When the video first started I thought that was an almost horizontal ledge that you were traversing. Only when you started climbing did I realise it was actually a vertical crack. Haha :D
@doransshield91763 жыл бұрын
damn I drive by this all the time, need to get into this
@whiskeybeardoutdoors65683 жыл бұрын
Much respect. That shit is super hard.
@richlukl11 жыл бұрын
where is this looks like a awaome bit of rock
@nandakanda320002 жыл бұрын
He believes that wall doesn't peel off at all? Or he may think "It's also my fate."...
@oldschoolhawking81917 жыл бұрын
How bout a explanation for the dummy over here. What happened when the climber grabbed the chain? What caused the fall? From behind the steering wheel of my big rig, everything looked great. :--(
@adsssdfcv7 жыл бұрын
old school hawking chain was greasy
@nater5676 жыл бұрын
he was climbing using layback technique...pushimg with feet and pulling with hands to keep from falling, but when he got to the top and grabbed the chain, his left hand was just too tired and he couldmt hold on any longer and he fell. but at least his safety pro was there and the rope caught him like its supposed to
@telestix66065 жыл бұрын
Essentially his feet slipped and the one arm on the chains wasn't strong enough to hold him.
@JohnWick-lu9mk3 жыл бұрын
It's all about endurance because his breathing so hard
@bshandro11 жыл бұрын
gloves for a finger crack?
@RockClimberAlex2 жыл бұрын
I hate that laying back stuff. You tend to push too hard with the feet, making your fingers more tired than you would otherwise be.
@mhenhawke50932 жыл бұрын
Does that not scare the shit out of you when it first lets go? What happens when you fall and say hurt your arm, its not broken but hurts really bad, and your hanging up side down. What do you do? Do you have a phone? is someone on the ground watching and if so how would they know if your hurt seriously? Great video, but scary . You would never catch me up there, no way!.
@bobbypatton49038 жыл бұрын
lay backing freaking burns! What a struggle!
@alan23nala10 жыл бұрын
Rock climbing fall climbing in Cape Town 6c+
@Sovietllama96510 жыл бұрын
damn, nice whipper. also nice sportivas
@fleaflicker14512 жыл бұрын
Your breathing had me nervous AF then you slipoed - NOOOOOOOO!
@gratchgratch79197 жыл бұрын
Fuck that shit I'm to scared climbing into my bed is as far as I go
@josetejada3202 жыл бұрын
All mountains are petrified giant wood stumps all minerals xome from these tree stumps you can confirm these, by watching hangman videos and also biblical trees on you tube
@davidevans90002 жыл бұрын
Bro… That was close!
@davidevans90002 жыл бұрын
You were definitely going for it!
@e.solano39632 жыл бұрын
Surprised you didn't yell for rock - cause I would have shit down my pants, especially being Trad. Sort of respect you grabbing the chain as that was some odd looking holds and toes 🤣 and again, knowing it's Trad under you
@Khilalblax11 жыл бұрын
My hands are all sweaty now thanks -_-
@windworldone2 жыл бұрын
Nice video
@WithoutAtaste10 жыл бұрын
That Was scary.. I thought you made it... and then wow
@rodperkins41193 жыл бұрын
Hey Guys I Got News For You All It's 2021!
@ronaldperry52432 жыл бұрын
I would've been screaming like a little baby
@AaronMartinCOOLVIDEO10 жыл бұрын
Dam looks hard.
@carolannmarie12 жыл бұрын
Bomber placements
@mykam133711 жыл бұрын
you are one of these guys that have socks on in their climbing shoes, right?
@bman60655 жыл бұрын
I'm "one of those guys"
@Dexter_Morgan.2 жыл бұрын
@@bman6065 so am I
@David-cp6rl6 жыл бұрын
When I rock climb I bring bacon grease and a brush and smear it on the route after me so can't grip.
@dukeofnuke24466 жыл бұрын
I usually take a hammer with me and destroy all handholds
@ontheedge333718 жыл бұрын
yeh good work not to scream like death was coming ! calm of mind and balls of size !
@inkspec2.0223 жыл бұрын
This looks painful
@mccullough87893 жыл бұрын
Ive jumped off a few cliffs before but climbing that. Not for me cool vid tho.👍🏻
@juanavila32452 жыл бұрын
How the heck does Spider-Man make it look easy
@c.5186 жыл бұрын
Its raining brown stuff!
@westkootenaybouldering99603 жыл бұрын
Take it easy dude
@colorado8413 жыл бұрын
He didn't have to grab the chain! What a whimp! I know this because I climb all the time... In fact i never grab any chain when I change the lightbulbs in my house.
@TheOhfishes10 жыл бұрын
Props on the gear placement. That was a big fall.
@davidcross3011 жыл бұрын
Nice video man. So close eh!
@FCBayernFan8511 жыл бұрын
Don't ya just hate that!? Everyone's a critic on youtube. Make it anyway ya can I say!
@kevinrogers85482 жыл бұрын
No way I could ever be a climber.
@Wolfdings4 жыл бұрын
I totally get grabbing the chain and how your body just reliefs on doing that (which may also lead to a drop) but I have to say that it was very smart not sticking your hand into that crack. Man that could have gone real bad!
@jimhernandez77123 жыл бұрын
i could not have put in poorer protection than before i learned to wipe my own but. But luv as always if that's your thing.
@rbb24262 жыл бұрын
Much respect but I can't believe people do this. Views are great but damn
@samblumenshineable Жыл бұрын
Someone oiled them 😂
@rockclimbinghacks92225 жыл бұрын
Nice
@sgnt93376 жыл бұрын
OMG that was scary.
@veon1510 жыл бұрын
Did you just grab the chain?
@samuel196417 жыл бұрын
I have no intentions of doing that anymore....Use to be a climbing fool..
@MaGGo149889 жыл бұрын
only a single rope?? man thats dangerous
@JJ0n3z9 жыл бұрын
No. It's not.
@brazzy19779 жыл бұрын
Jake Jones Doesn't look like it is on that route, but ropes do ocasionally get cut by sharp edges and people do use twin or half ropes to mitigate that risk.
@bshandro9 жыл бұрын
Michael Borgwardt twin ropes are used by ice climbers in flourescent color soft shell/goretex and generally speaking french or a italian. half ropes are best used on face climbs or wandering trad climbs to minimize rope drag. Single rope is pretty standard for crack climbing.
@brazzy19779 жыл бұрын
Bret Shandro Sure, but twin ropes might also be a good idea if you have sharp edges around. I recently read an accident report where a guy was climbing sideways on his second piece of protection above a ledge. He fell, the second piece ripped and he took a swing across the ledge, cutting the rope. Twin ropes might have saved his life. As could have better route planning, but how far can you do that, taking into account which protection might and might not hold?
@JJ0n3z9 жыл бұрын
Michael Borgwardt So when you climb, you can tell from the ground whether or not there are sharp edges 20 or 30 meters up? Do you climb on doubles all the time, or do you bring 3 ropes with you so that you have a choice?