Vertical Garage Roof Bracing and Storage Problems

www.homebuildin... Click on this link to learn more about building and garage roof construction. This video will provide you with more information about vertical garage roof bracing and some of the problems you could end up with if you use your garage attic for storage. Don't forget to visit our websites for more information about construction, home repairs and building design.

[@royenri01]

Wow. This video really cleared up a lot. My home was built in 1956 with a detached 2 car garage. I really thought these overlapped 2x4 were really unsafe looking not knowing that's how they did it back then.

[@gregvancom]

Awesome and glad it cleared everything up.

[@YsBigfoot]

Thank you for posting this. I have a 1928 home with a garage and it's like you were reading my mind. Exactly the information I needed!!

[@Pablo453]

Same here. 1915 house and no ridge beam in the garage. Single top plates and only 2 rafter ties. Hope your project went well.

[@codyramos3200]

Hey man , Thanks for making these videos you give a explanation that's easily interpreted with the graphic model. The overhead storage in my garage made a issue with the ceiling sagging to a concerning amount . Needed the info provided by this video to correct the situation.

[@gregvancom]

Glad to help!

[@mikeelliott857]

Thank you very much/ This was exactly the info I needed to repair/reinforce a friends old 20 x 20 with only 3 rafter ties holding the walls in and none of that other cool bracing.

[@gregvancom]

You're Welcome.

[@docx5366]

Great Video - no don’t stop!! Have a house w engineered trusses and want to reinforce for storage only- How do I reinforce the engineered trusses for medium weight storage floor only ( normal weight - perhaps light weight shelving- not crates of lead:)

[@odavis1364]

Mine have 2x6s. Bailed to them where the storage is. Storage is about 8 foot wide

[@josephwhite671]

Your videos are very informative. I have a reverse gable attached garage 10x20 with 2x6 rafter ties running the 20 foot length at 16” on center. I plan on installing a pull down ladder and securing a plywood floor on top of the rafter ties to use for storage above. I am concerned that there is no vertical support for the rafter ties. Do you think I need it?

[@dane6k6]

This is very informative. My garage has support 2x4's spaced about every 18" I think they are the ceiling joist. I need to make an opening in the center of the garage for attic access and to be able to bring items up for storage. I want it to be extra wide so I don't have to twist, bend and grease my storage containers to get them through the opening. My question is when cutting out the opening do I need to support those 2x4's ceiling joist? If so where? Thanks

[@gregvancom]

It wouldn't be a bad idea to support them, because they could move. Keep in mind that the 2 x 4 ceiling joists you are referring to, probably won't support much weight, so keep that in mind when storing things.

[@dane6k6]

Thanks for the advice. After searching around I think my best bet is to support them from above going perpendicular to the boards. After I box in the opening using double headers do you think I can remove the added bracing?

[@gregvancom]

I can't advise you on that, because I don't know what you're building looks like. Feel free to send me some pictures and you can get our email address at the website.

[@guybarnett131]

Thanks for the videos they both are very helpful. My garage is all open, so you see all the studs. I'm going to sheetrock all of it after I beef it up, like your telling. Only doing this because all my tools and equipment are getting weathered due to being open. My question is how do you feel about foam spraying in between the rafters under the roof to keep the heat and cold reduced.

[@gregvancom]

Installation contractors usually do what you're suggesting. However they don't usually create big blobs, just use it to fill all of the gaps and cracks that could let air inside.

[@guybarnett131]

@@gregvancom ok thanks for the info. I would like take the brick off and redo the vapor barrier its falling apart so bad, but that's a lots money and will have to wait. But thanks again and keep those videos coming.

[@gregvancom]

@@guybarnett131 You're welcome and the problem you're encountering is probably the biggest nightmare for people in your situation, dealing with brick exteriors.

[@jakedrews]

This looks exactly like my 1960's garage. I really want to to put a ceiling up, do you have any videos on how I might tackle that?

[@gregvancom]

You can check out our website in the garage and ceiling remodeling sections.

[@p.pardus8424]

Would using bolts be superior to nails as far as the shear forces and "ripping out" are concerned?

[@MVDreports]

Hello, what an amazing video, thank you. My garage was built in 1970 and is near identical to yours hear. One thing I am curious about, would sistering 2x4x20 assist with the sag assuming you jack back up the sag, sister and create a pair of 2x6 vertical ties? Seems like that sister and tie would really beef up the rafter joist for more weight, but not sure I have that correct.

[@gregvancom]

Sistering a 20 foot 2x4 might not do anything. I would use a larger piece of lumber and maybe try installing one to see if works, before installing any more.

[@MVDreports]

@@gregvancom thank you for responding. I just did 2x6 and put up about 8 of them at a half way point in my garage since I have a pitch on the front off. Was able to pick up the sag, but I wonder if the 2x6 is gonna sag itself in a number of years

[@RJTracing]

hello, first off, awesome video! second, you talked a bit about a garage w/trusses which is what I'm delighted with. when I had my garage build I told the construction Co. that I wanted to put a sub floor in the attic for storing light stuff. after watching your videos I'm not so sure they build what I asked for... would you please tell me what you think, here are my specs: (I) 30'x40' w/12' ceilings, (II) 4" 3,000psi w/FG slab on 12" footer all around, (III) standard engineer roof trusses (W design) the chords are splice in the middle, (IV) everything is 2"x6" lumber, (V) walls are 16"ish on center & trusses are 23.5" on center. I'm about to add a ceiling (7/16 OSB), add insulation, then put OSB on the middle for storage, I have about 8ft in the middle of the "W" to walk around. THANKS FOR YOUR INPUT ON THIS!

[@gregvancom]

If it's possible, contact the manufacturer of the roof trusses or another roof truss manufacturer to answer your question. One of the biggest problems with storage is how much weight you're actually going to place on the roof truss system and most engineers and trust manufacturers hate to even put it on building plans, because they could be liable if the truss system fails in the future.

[@TheWhatsitgonnabe]

@@gregvancom Hidden information that makes me automatically doubt some people (manufacturers) - and that drive me crazy! :(

[@eric44707]

I have a similar Garage that I would to put a ceiling in and insulate. Also store some stuff. It’s about 21 ft wide with 2x6 joist spaced about 4 ft apart. I would need 22ft 2x6s to fit up there. If it’s even possible. Do they sell 2x6s at that length or is my only option to lap them? If so, by how much should I lap them? I was even thinking about using those metal hurricane ties or the metal joist connectors they use on decks

[@gregvancom]

You would need to check with a lumber yard in your area, I have a lumber yard near me that provides lumber up to 30 foot long. My guess is that you would need at least 2 x 12, 12 inches on center for that span also

[@allenfreemen3873]

Converting a garage like this into a second floor studio. Would this be expensive? Can I reuse most of the material? Can I use the same frame of the garage and add onto it?

[@gregvancom]

Yes, it can be expensive and you might be able to reuse materials. I don't know if you could use the same frame or foundation, that is a question for an engineer.

[@SidebandSamurai]

Thank you for this video. I have a garage built almost exactly like this. I have not done measurements yet, but It appears that the rafters are 24" centers, Rafter Ties are also 24" centers and span the entire width of my two car garage. The Rafter ties are 2x4 approximately 20' in length. In the center of the rafter tie is a vertical 2x4 going from the Rafter tie all the way to the Roof Ridge. it is attached to the roof ridge rafter tie by what I believe is a truss mending plate for 2x4. Half way between the garage wall and the center vertical support is a smaller vertical support attached to the rafter tie and the rafter with the same truss mending plate . These smaller vertical supports are on either side of the center support. The mending plates are on both sides of each vertical support. I want to put a floor in the garage ceiling to store holiday decorations. I wanted to sister the rafter ties with another 2x4. Should I bolt them together or use another method of fastening. Also should I strengthen these supports by bolting metal plates where the truss mending plate is? I would not replace the mending plates but install metal plates over the truss mending plate. How thick should the flooring be. I was thinking 5/8" OSB maybe 3/4" OSB.

[@gregvancom]

I cannot provide you with engineering advice, but I can tell that the vertical two by fours that connect the ridge to the rafter ties are usually only meant to prevent the rafter tie from sagging from its own weight. I don't see any problem using some type of a mending plate, as long as it had the same capabilities to structurally support the roof framing components.

[@DeadphishyEP3]

Great video thanks. I have a garage with a span of 21 feet. It had 4 foot on center rafter ties (2x6)) with a vertical brace about 4 feet off each wall. I added ties to achieve 16 on center and now I am wondering if I should add a few vertical braces at the peak? With only having braces 4 feet off the wall any load on the rafter ties will pull down from the center of the rafter casing a potental sag in the rood. Any advice?

[@gregvancom]

I don't know if what you did was necessary, unless somehow you're going to use it for storage, but the vertical braces are used to hold up the rafter ties most of the time and usually do not provide any structural support for the roof rafters or ridge. Let me know if this makes sense or if I didn't answer your question. Don't forget to visit the website and check out our information on garages, also if you haven't.

[@rrtii]

Great videos man, very helpful. I've got a gable roof that's too wide for 1 piece rafter ties. Do you prefer that the two pieces of lumber be nailed side by side to make the ties like shown in this video, or for them to be butted end to end with additional material on both sides? Thanks

[@gregvancom]

The illustrations I used in the video was an accepted building practice years ago and I would imagine they still work today. I wish I could provide you with more information, but most of the roofs I've seen today use engineered trusses and it's been over 20 years since I've nailed 2 - 2x4's together to create a rafter tie.

[@always_antifascist]

can I add a rafter tie right on top of the existing 2x4 rafter tie, then remove the old one, to raise the ceiling height? Not sure when the garage was built, but there is no double top plate. I will be re-framing the exterior load-bearing walls to include a double top plate and header for an 8' wide garage door.

[@gregvancom]

You probably can, but part of the job of a rafter tie is connecting the top or upper wall framing plates from one side of the building to the other side of the building.

[@danieldcc]

Can I cut the strongback?

[@gregvancom]

As long as it isn't structurally supporting anything. I've done it before, but relocated the strong back or moved it a few feet to support ceiling.

[@rp9674]

If the verticals were attached to the other perpendicular member they wouldn't have to angle

[@rp9674]

If the verticals were attached to the other perpendicular member they wouldn't have to angle