How to Strengthen Garage Ceiling for Storage - Home Remodeling

www.homebuildingandrepairs.com... Click on this link for more information about garage construction and roof framing. This video will provide you with a way to strengthen your garage ceiling for storage, but doesn't make any guarantees that it will work in every situation. By adding more rafter ties or ceiling joists you can strengthen your ceiling, but it might not provide you with enough structural support. In other words, use this information at your own risk.

[@billygraham5589]

Though the half notched 2 x 12 would be weakened, it would still be stronger and more rigid than a 2x10 in the same application.

[@MrMac5150]

Good tip

[@bossbitchlaura4440]

Thanks

[@dancuson4367]

Firstly, thanks for all the great videos. Question for you. I have a 2x4 ceiling in my garage similar to your video. I have some things stored up there, and worried about long term use. Nothing extremely heavy, but a fair amount and I'd like the ability to store more. I don't know the exact span, haven't measured, but it's a typical two car garage. In the video, you suggest using the same size stud as what's there already. I'm considering using the biggest board I can fit above the wall header without cutting and scabbing/sistering onto the existing 2x4 joists. So, if I can fit a 2x6 or 2x8, attach them to existing 2x4 spanning the entire length. The theory is that would carry a lot more weight than just doubling the 2x4. Do you see any negatives to this plan?

[@gregvancom]

The 2 x 4 joist can be removed with larger joist and you're definitely on the right path. In most cases it will be better to use larger lumber and you can attach them to the existing 2 x 4 rafter ties.

[@VideoNOLA]

I've got 2x6 ceiling joists spanning 13' rooms below. In a 1920's bungalow, it's unclear to me (without going to inspect) whether these would have been installed as true rafter ties, or simply attached to the top plate (I want to assume *both*). But I do know that if I intended to make the attic inhabitable, I'd better beef up according to the suggestions in your video, either with more 2x6's or going to 2x8's.

[@gregvancom]

Here's a link to your website that might be helpful. www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/framing/roofs/index.html

[@johnmcook1]

Just add a ledger on the inside of the walls to carry the joists of couse you should add cripples also .

[@rp9674]

I think there are multiple concerns here, strength, rigidity, access % $. I'd like to see an exploration of laminating 1 in lumber, and use of plywood, which is already laminated wood and it's more rigid than equivalent timbers. There can also be issues of access to replacing a beam, laminating in place from shorter boards might be a good option.

[@hockeyplayaz18]

Hey @gregvancom I have a similar problem. Late 1960s garage, hip roof, 22x24 ft garage. Four 2x6 rafters at roughly 58" from center,. They spanning the whole 22 ft. Two of them sag between 1.5 and 2 inches. Initially I wanted to put in 2/8 or bigger but, due to the lack of room before hitting the roof, the roof angle does not allow, it's impossible. My goal is to fix the sag, install additional rafters, can lights, and then drywall. I understand the current distance between each of the existing 2x6s will not work. Do you have any advice as to how I could sister to the existing 2x6s using multiple shorter boards to fix the sag, as well as add additional sistered 2x6s? I'd assume two sets of sistered 2x6s in between each of the current 58in from center would that be able to support drywall and the lights? I've gone through a lot of your videos and have not seen anything specific to this issue for hip roofs. Please let me know if there is any additional information I can provide. Thanks!

[@masterofnone9651]

I'm in the process of remodeling my garage and looking to utilize the attic space for storage. It's a small 1 car garage attached to the house. However, when I opened the ceiling the ceiling joists are running perpendicular to the roof rafters which was not at all what I was expecting. The garage is about 10x20 (house was built in 1940). The gabled roof rafters run the length with the side attached to the house. There looks to be a support beam about half way down the rafters which looks to support the garage door opening along with the header for the garage door framing itself. However my 2x4 ceiling joists run perpendicular to the rafters. They are attached to the wood lapping on the side of the house and sit on top of the opposite outer wall. They are 16" on center. And there is a single tie down the middle of the length of the garage. I'm looking to beef up the joists and create and opening for a 22.5" attic ladder which as you know is typically for 24" on center joists. I'd also like the ceiling to be sturdy enough to carry my weight when walking around up there storage items. Storage will be mostly holiday decorations and camping gears. Things that are used seasonally. I was thinking of sistering the current joists (if we can call them that) with 2x6 across the 10' span. Then for my attic ladder just cut out the rough opening and brace with 2x6 cross cuts doubled up. Putting 3/4 plywood down on top nailed to the joists and tie that into the adjacent walls. Or run two ties instead of one the length of the garage. Seems overkill but I don't want my garage collapsing. Welcome any thoughts.

[@gregvancom]

It sounds like you have figured everything out. You might even be able to get away with doubling up the two by fours, but a 2 x 6 will definitely be stronger. I think this was the most detailed information I ever received in the comment area, good job.

[@masterofnone9651]

gregvancom Thanks for the reply and confirming my thoughts. I'm an accountant by trade but love a good DIY. Your video was very helpful and informative.

[@michaelmolter8828]

Not sure how much of a concern notching the 2x12 at the bearing points would be. The limit here is mid-span deflection, that’s what drives up the size of the beam. I doubt you’d need any real shear capacity near the walls. If you have a 20’ span, loaded to 30 psf with 2x12s 16” OC, that’s only 400 lb of shear load at the walls. The shear strength of SPF before any bonuses/corrections is ~90 psi. You’d need roughly 1.5x3” of shear area to cover that load.

[@bossbitchlaura4440]

I have a two stall garages and it got a little crispy after a fire.how should i replace the Beams one by one

[@gregvancom]

+Honda Moto516 Yes

[@jiujitsuforall8627]

I'm a novice when it comes to this kind of stuff, but I'm NOT afraid to tackle it. My question is: How do I shore up SAGGING/warped joists(?) in the garage? I think that's what they're called, the long, flat 2 x 4's that one would attach the drywall ceiling to? Over the years, because we've stored stuff across those 2 x 4's, they've kinda bowed downward and I want to add suspended storage shelves along the walls.

[@gregvancom]

Here's a link to our website it might be helpful. www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/remodeling/garage/index.html Now for the bad news, most of the time if the joist you're referring to that are often called Rafter ties are sagging, then the roof is also sagging and if this is the case, then the roof might need additional structural supports or to be rebuilt. This seems to be more common when people use 2 x 4 roof rafters.

[@2Truth4Liberty]

What do you think of sister-ing the 2x4's with flat bar steel? Maybe add 3/16" x 2" and screws it at top and bottom every other inch (top screws off set from bottom row of screws) Cost = about $30 per joist for 20'

[@dcsann]

my garage is very similar to this one. I only have 3 2x4s joist running the width of the garage. I am going to remove and add 2x6 at 16 on center. I have made the first one but there is no way to get the length of the board to sit on top of the wall plate. I have placed it diagonal within the 16" spacing of the rafter but i cannot manage to get it to go in and sit on top of both wall plates ( i am trying to get it to seat with 2" bearing for each side. Are there any tricks or advise to actually get the full length joist to sit up there?

[@gregvancom]

The only way I know would be to remove any blocking that could be removed and replaced or removing the roofing materials and sheathing and of course replacing it.

[@jdpinedo]

how would you beef it up in a completed garage? my garage is 19' wide all open no drywall. I currently have 3 2*6 joist the width of the garage and want to create some storage space. I was considering sistering since squeezing a 2*6*19 is going to be impossible.

[@gregvancom]

Visit our website www.homebuildingandrepairs.com/garages/index.html and see if you can find any information if not feel free to send me some pictures and I'll see if I can give you some ideas. Don't forget to check out our framing repair and engineering section also.

[@aclaudio1969ify]

I am building a gable roof over my porch 16' wide by 7' depth. I only want to use two corner post rather than 3 post which makes one in the middle, what size beam do you reccomend i use, 2x6.....2x8....or 2x10 so that i wont have it sag in the middledown the road?

[@gregvancom]

I can provide any engineering advice, but I imagine if you looked at the buildings around your neighborhood you could probably get all the information you needed.

[@letslearn7899]

Hello I wanted to know how can lower my ceiling. Right now it is 12feet I would like to make it 8feet So that I can fully use the upstairs of attic hope to hear from you soon

[@gregvancom]

You might want to check out our website, because I know I have a couple of videos in the garage section on building aloft. Let me know if you can't find what you're looking for.

[@KennethStringer1985]

Question: I live in a one story, with 2x4 ceiling rafters, it was built back in the 70's and has succumb to a lot of termite damage over the years. I was in attic recently and noticed the previous owner had someone sister many of the damaged joist by simply nailing sections of 2x4 together. I would like to sister a few more 2x4's to strengthen a few more areas that were missed. The question I'm wondering, if nailing the 2x4's together is sufficient, or should they be bolted together? And should the 2x4 span the distance between the load bearing walls? As I notice some of the previous sistering was only done in 3 or 4 foot sections, as a 12 foot 2x4 would span the distance I need between load bearing walls. Thanks for any advice.

[@gregvancom]

I cannot provide you with the perfect answer, but can tell you that sistered joist can run the full length from bearing points and can also be placed somewhere in between using shorter lengths of lumber. They can also be fastened with nails or bolts, but most of the time cannot be fastened with screws that aren't designed to be used for specifically for these types of engineering repairs.

[@KennethStringer1985]

@@gregvancom Thanks for your reply, your videos have been helpful. I ended up shooting nails since it was a much cheaper and easier option, I also went full length to span the distance between bearing walls.

[@ReynosoJD]

I have 2x4 in ceiling for garage span for 3 car garage(not sure how many feet) and want to install attic ladder for access to attic (not storage) will it hold a 250 pound person going up on top? Contractor thinks its okay but curious what you think.

[@jamezbrian4135]

your professional contractor says it is ok, but you want folks off the net to give you advice. Well here Ill go. A ladder can be vertical so as long as it is flat on the floor and screwed to wall studs it should be ok. do you have a solid floor up there. if not very risky to walk on studs. Not very stable for walking.

[@dennis3271]

i have a garage attic rafter setup. 24 x 26 with 2x6, 16 on center floor. the 2x6 floor is running the 24 foot length. can i put a support in the middle [12 foot]. will this support a plywood floor.

[@gregvancom]

Yes if you put a support beam underneath your floor joist, it will strengthen the floor as long as it is properly supported by posts if needed and a concrete footing or footings.

[@dennis3271]

Thank you for the reply, You have a lot of good information.I am thinking of building and setting the support myself, any suggestions.

[@gregvancom]

I've already made quite a few videos on floor framing repairs and suggest going to your website and then clicking on the repairs tab and then framing link. This will take you to our framing repairs webpage instead of or house framing webpage that would be located under the home building tab.

[@elyh777]

Is it common for builders to install the joists over the garage in 2 pieces? I went into my attic to see if I could lay some ply to create more storage but found that the joist are in 2 pieces and just butted up to each other. It looks like the load is more or less hanging from the roof joists via the bracing. Any ideas on what is going on in my attic and what what I can do to make it a storage location? Thanks!

[@gregvancom]

That doesn't sound common for new home construction. Feel free to send me some pictures of your project and I will see if I can provide you with more information. Our email address can be found on any page of our website at the bottom.

[@elyh777]

gregvancom ok cool will do. Thanks!

[@xxvodanhxx]

What is used to install the extra beams between the rafter ties ( which are not rafter ties themselves since they don't attach to rafters)?

[@gregvancom]

+Huy Tran You can use different sized lumber, for example 2 x 6, 2 x 8, 2 x 10 or even 2 x 12. The size of the lumber would depend upon the width of the garage. Try to type in lumber spans sizes into your favorite search engine for more information.

[@xxvodanhxx]

+gregvancom I plan to use the same size as the current crafter ties, 2x4. I'm wondering what to use to attach them since they're in between rather ties so I'm not nailing to the rafter. I assume some type of bracket is used instead.

[@gregvancom]

You can go to your local home improvement center or lumberyard for more information. I don't see a problem nailing your new ceiling joist to the existing roof rafters, but if you do then I understand.

[@justinberrington1426]

What is the best method to attach the rafter ties to the top plate if your ties are between the rafters?

[@gregvancom]

+Justin Berrington If you aren't having any problems with the building currently, then I would leave it alone, but they could always be moved over so they could be securely fastened to the rafter or new ones installed and then you could remove the existing ones.

[@justinberrington1426]

Thanks. I don't think I worded my question properly. I am replacing the current 2x4's with 2x8's. My rafters extend past the garage wall on one side and are also the roof for the overhang above my walkway on the front porch. (20' wide garage with additional 10' of rafter for the porch totaling 30' span) The wall that the rafters extend over has vertical supports and a beam to support that part of the roof. The vertical supports are not inline with the rafters. The current 2x4 spans extend past the wall and connect to the rafters on the far side of the overhang. I want to cut the current rafter ties so that I can still attach the 2x4's on the overhang side to top plate and put in new 2x8's and attach those to the top plate as well. Since the vertical supports don't line up I am wondering if I should use Teko clips or something to that effect? Thank you

[@gregvancom]

Send me a picture, but if you don't, I think you could use some type of straps to make the connection between the garage and the porch. You can always go to my website and then click on the design tab at the top, then engineering for more information also.

[@kim6261]

all these videos show all the boards being long enough to span the width of the garage but I would need 24" long boards. how do you connect the boards that are running side to side?

[@gregvancom]

Where I'm from you can get lumber up to 30 foot long in Southern California. I don't really know what you mean when you say, how do you connect the boards of the running side to side. If you want, send me a picture of your project or simply provide me with a little more clarity and I will see if I can help.

[@Acemulder]

I think he has the same issue I have. The ceiling in the garage is drywalled so there is no way to get a 24 foot 2x4 up there. So I would need to connect two smaller pieces (2x14?) overlapped or perhaps there is some connecting pieces to use?

[@gregvancom]

You might need to remove the drywall, to build a floor or beef up the existing roof ceiling for storage. This video might help kzbin.info/www/bejne/sHPMaYOPhZalfrM

[@jakewwwjake]

This is very similar to my garage construction. But my garage door is in the wall where one side of the joists would rest. Do you think this wall with the door would provide adequate support?

[@gregvancom]

As long as the garage door header and wall was engineered to support the joist them everything should be okay. I'm not suggesting that you can't install the joist on top of the wall with a garage beam, but it might require a larger one if it does. Instead of a 4 x 12 you might need a 4 x 16.

[@jakewwwjake]

Ok, I doubt it was designed to support joists all the way across. There's just 5 ties running across right now. It seems like a lot of weight to rest just on the two corners, due to the door taking about the vast majority of that wall. Thank you!

[@gregvancom]

Feel free to send me a picture of your project for another opinion.

[@mikejohnson9118]

Why not put another joist on the other side of the rafter. Then put blocking in between the joists.

[@gregvancom]

I like it.

[@trumpisaconfirmedcuck5840]

What do you call the section going over the middle perpendicular to the joists?

[@gregvancom]

They are support braces to equally space the trusses and prevent them from moving.

[@trumpisaconfirmedcuck5840]

@@gregvancom If I wanted to upgrade my joists to a bigger size what would I do with them? Is it dangerous to remove them to raise the floor up then reinstall them?

[@ben8090]

I have no idea what you are talking about. Pity you didn't use a pointing device

[@gregvancom]

I have just solved my problem with the pointer and wish I solved it years ago, but just couldn't figure out how to do it, sorry. If you want to check out more of our videos about garages, go to the website and under the remodeling section you should find a link to the garage videos.

[@dougiequick1]

over the top BS thinking.....this would be for dead weight storage NOT a dance floor! So what if it is not exactly legal....WHO CARES? Or if it sags a little....i mean DUHH don't store bags of quickcrete lol....I would just add some lumber and maybe tie to ridge board ....this is NOT "a floor" it is a ceiling....some you are going to abuse with storage....sell the house just don't advertise as storage space.....sheesh some stick up the butt logic and advice

[@gregvancom]

I usually remove comments like yours, because they often confuse others, but you do have a valid point. If you're only going to store a few things in your attic and you don't mind if any of the framing lumber like rafters, joist or ties sag over time, then why not listen to this individual with non-BS thinking.

[@georiv2834]

Right

[@greghill985]

Yeah I got it cause you repeat everything 3 times

[@gregvancom]

Awesome, even though you might not have meant it in a kind way.