Mercedes Sprinter Camper Van - Solar Panels

[@GregVirgoe]

If you would like to buy these panels or any other equipment shown in this video I have put links in the video description to the solar panels that I'm using as well as the brackets and the solar cable and charge controller too. They are extremely good value for this duty and UK based company in Kent.

[@simonrutherford5738]

Hi Greg, I’m just revisiting the mounting of my panels currently on roof bars. Do you have a link for the aluminium angle and what size is it please? Also what length bolts did you use and where did you source the square plate washers? I followed your link for the unistrut the longest length was 1.5 meters was that what you used? I’m working on solutions to make the panels lift. I’m looking at possibly using an inflatable bag the sort used in air suspension systems along with bed lift hinges that I have already. The idea needs more thought at the moment. Glad to see you enjoying the van.

[@pbudd45]

Hey mate. Not sure if you've built your frame for tilting them yet but have a lightweight idea for it for you. Let me know and we can chat further. Cheers

[@ferenciss]

Brilliant! How do you find so far this 480w? Isnt to much?:) I mean better as this then less, just dont want to overspend. Thanks!

[@johnhayesuk]

Greg Virgoe hi Greg didn’t find the link for your supplier thanks again John

[@tomchapman8427]

i would suggest oil filled struts similar to ones open boot on car but stronger for angling your panels

[@simonsackett]

You've shared so many solutions to the problems that most van builders will inevitably encounter, and in such a succinct and interesting way. You should be very proud of this series of videos, Greg.

[@Namdor2012]

Greg, you might not check these old ones..But a thought, just take around 4 or 5 of those aluminium straps, join them using aluminum rivet nuts as to make one thick light strap ,that has the threads as well to adjust height....Make up a few thick straps, two birds with one stone, strap and adjustment points....Even some of that bonding sikaflex as well to layer the straps, for even more strength with the riv nuts.....

[@MrGenedancingmachine]

4:01 finally found a flaw in one of your videos greg, some nuts fall out of the bag...YES!! I TOTALLY GOT YOU!! OWNED!!

[@GregVirgoe]

😆 lol that’s so funny. Made me laugh. Cheers

[@PastorManningPhD]

Got him!!!! He is human!

[@darrenparker8359]

I've watched this build start to almost finish. It's the only blooper I've noticed too. Now your living in it, is there anything you'd have done different? (Ps) are all your tins of beans the right way round. Brilliant viewing thank you. Enjoy

[@GregVirgoe]

Darren Parker, I would like to add more 12v USB charging points, charging off the inverter powered sockets is ok but not very energy efficient.

[@Pugwash.]

As I'm building my second van this is exactly what I found from the first one. I've doubled the number of sockets and made sure one is next to the bed and one next to the kitchen surface, as well as both ends of the sofa.

[@TempleGuitars]

I absolutely love these videos! I know how much hard work goes into making them, and I appreciate how generous you are with your knowledge. This is such a clean van build- totally inspirational. And your presenting style is easygoing and easy to follow. I'm absolutely a fan.

[@mrtambourineman6107]

Finally someone without the ego and nonsense, who just clearly knows what he's doing 👌 👏

[@marksadventures3889]

Lovely Jubbly Greg. Excellent. I think the gas struts are a good idea.

[@seawench555]

Hey Greg love the hole in the thumb on your glove is that another of your brilliant ideas xx Karlene oh and really appreciate you attention to detail well done

[@mange2]

Fantastic idea with the channels Greg. I was gonna mount mine on roof bars, but I think I prefer your installation because it will be lower to the roof. Great job as always mate.

[@derekt7606]

Great job as always. If you research a tilt function take a look at the transom area on some boats they usually have hatches to engine compartments that are supported by various devices.

[@pradolover]

Just fantastic mate, we bought a 2000 Toyota Land Cruiser Prado yesterday as a weekender and adventure wagon, so your vids like this are great inspiration on how we can set it up.

[@mal6232]

Great video Greg. I think you will find the normal practice is not to solder the wire in crimped connections. The problem is that the solder stiffens the braided wire and causes work hardening just behind the solder and with vibration the wire eventually fractures - also normally the two wings on the crimp fold over the insulation to provide a firm grip on the cable - however, that would then need a crimping tool to compress the ferrule onto the bared wire strands also and it wasn't clear from your video if you had the tool. Maybe I am wrong in this case but that is normally what happens with generic crimp connectors. If you want to improve the electrical connection between the wire and the connector you should dip the wire strands in vaseline (other brands available), you might think that that is an insulator and would be counter productive but the thing is that when the wire is crimped most of the vaseline will be squeezed out of the connector so there will still be plenty of metal to metal contact but the voids will still be filled with the vaseline and without oxygen there can be no corrosion. 40 years ago we used to use vaseline filled crimps in the telecoms network. Keep up the good work.

[@rups22]

Was thinking of drilling a hole and feeding cables through with just a bit of sealant. Thanks for showing us the proper way to do it with the nice tidy cable entry

[@ivecamperbuild_thomas4084]

So glad I seen this video again the you unknowingly have give me a idea with this channel for a double bed to go to the ceiling at the front of my Iveco daily , with the help of two 12 volt trailer winches wired to one remote I have tried it out in the shed but the bed was moving about too much but the channel with rollers fitted will work , I have ordered four shout lengths and will knock it up and let you know if it works ok . I have made the bed already because I would like to take my grandchildren with us , it will be next year now . As I have only just started I will be cutting out two windows and fitting them over the weekend weather permitting then it’s start stippling the Van out .you know what comes next but I’m really looking forward to it I have not got the balls to do any live feeds with me doing the talking but I may do a few of my progress as I go on many thanks for your videos they have helped convince the wife we will be quite comfortable on two single beds as we are too old to be climbing over each other if one of us need a wee .thanks again Greg

[@BEANEXTRACT]

Thank you Greg. I’m adding two more 100 watt panels to my roof, this video really helped. I hope you are well.🙏❤️

[@GregVirgoe]

Fantastic!

[@parapilot09]

Fantastic Greg and quality workmanship as always. I have some panels fitted about 3 weeks ago by a guy who was recommended by many in one of the UK motorhome campervan groups. He sikaflexing was horrendous. I think I could have done neater beads wearing welding goggles in the dark. He also used a pair of latter's again the van which left some light dings in my panels. I didn't realise til the next day after I had driven from Wisbech home to Warks and I saw the shambolic pigs ear of a job. Not happy. He did actually fit the same make of mon panels, 2 x 160w and I supplied a Victron Mppt Bluetooth controller.

[@chriscook1987]

you should spray the sawn end of the unistrut with galvefroid ,,,it will go rusty in no time at all.... great series of videos

[@gadgetfellow]

once I get to the UK, within the next 6 months, I will be following in your footsteps. Great videos full of important info and plenty of detail. thanks for the care time and effort you put into these videos.

[@des2610]

A couple of remote control linear actuators and some brackets would do for lifting your panels.

[@CampervanMan]

Have you seen anyone actually doing this? It's the route I want to go down but I can't get my head round the idea. I'd also want to be able to angle them either way...

[@simonrutherford5738]

I think to angle them either way I’m looking at having a central pivot. I have made a frame out of 25mm aluminium square section to mount the panels on. It’s not too bulky but if it needs to swivel then I need to raise it up before swivelling the panel. I’m thinking on the idea of each side outside edge being the swivel point as an alternative. It needs more thought but I’ll get their.

[@CampervanMan]

@@simonrutherford5738 post a link when you get there!

[@CampervanMan]

@Anto Palmer Yup. Just fitted the switches so it's all wired up and ready to be bolted down to the roof

[@bespokedfurniture]

I'm sure i must of watched your entire build series numerous times by now! Hopefully I will get my sprinter started at somepoint 🤣 your wood working vids are well worth the watch too, im a carpenter/cabinet maker myself. Matt

[@GregVirgoe]

Bespoked Handmade Furniture thank you 😊 from someone in the trade I really appreciate the nice comment 👍🏼

[@wjlacey]

Just want you to know, how brilliant it has been to be able to view quality videos such as yours, youre extremely thorough and put your research to good use and makes it much easier for us! Thank you mate.

[@stubostar]

Your videos are among the best van build vids I've seen on youtube and I've seen a lot. Many thanks, your vids are really helping with my own build and I always come back here before doing anything major. :)

[@GregVirgoe]

Thats really nice to hear, glad they are helping you.

[@Odysseus10001]

Good evening Greg, I am not sure if you have solved the problem with elevating your solar panels as you posted the video last year. We live in the UK and have a Mercedes-Benz UNIMOG U1300L Expedition Camper. It is called Noggin the Mog. The Chap who we purchased the vehicle from had fitted 2 x 110W solar panels to the roof of the accommodation box in a similar manor to what you were proposing with the M8 knobs and aluminium strips to prop the panels up at about a 45 degree angle. However, they were permanently raised and although the UNIMOG is not the most mpg friendly, having a pair of air-brakes on the roof did not help the figures much. So, we kept the frames and used an 12v electrical linear actuator on each of the panels to raise the panels and lowering them flat whilst in transit. However, we up-rated the solar system by fitting 2 x 275w panels (designed for a narrow boat) and a MPPT charge controller. The panels lie flat on the roof and we have had no problems in getting max charge out of the panels, thanks to the MPPT controller. The other advantage is you do not have to worry about orientating the vehicle to point the panels towards the sun. In fact 18 months ago, we did just over 5,300 miles circumnavigating Scandinavia. Being up in the Arctic Circle you would need to raise the panels even more to be perpendicular to the sun, again we did not have any snags with the panels flat on the roof. We have also completed trips to the Outer Hebrides, Orkney and the Shetland Islands and notice it isn’t overly sunny, but there is no shortage of wind. So we have augmented the solar system with a Rutland 914i Wind Charger which now gives us all the electrical power we need and totally off grid. Hope that helps. Luvin’ the videos.

[@davidpiper3652]

I was going to buy a roof rack, but have now changed my mind! Thanks. Good video.

[@Professionalmoochers]

I don’t know what it is but, I completely trust you 😂 There’s a lot of instructional videos where you can tell the author doesn’t really know what they’re talking about… great job Greg. We’re planning a van build this year if we can sell our Campervan so I’ll be watching them all 👍🏼

[@GregVirgoe]

Thank you 🙏🏼 I’ve spent a lot of time making sure the information I’m giving out is correct so it’s sound advice. Thanks for watching

[@Professionalmoochers]

@@GregVirgoe in return, I’ll be spending a lot of time watching 😁

[@stephenmorgan5100]

Cracking job and great way to fit the panels. I wanted to put surf boards on my roof and used brackets which lifted my panels off the roof by 8 inches so the boards fitted underneath the panels. Also the panels i chose through Bimble do collect a little extra power from under the panel from the reflection off the roof. Only down side is you can see them from the ground and I guess they create drag. I have 600 watts of power and they produce great power even in UK. It will be interesting to see if you actually really need to elevate your panels to get the power you need. Great install. Stephen

[@steveallen8987]

Nice setup. I would tape the cables to the underside of the panels rather than just cable tie as on the move the wind will make them flap around. I had an idea that you might find useful. Instead of angling the cells for better power production how about a removable reflector? You can get Mylar reflective material, fastened to three or four rods like a banner it could be mounted easily on either side. Being material it would not be damaged by any wind. A vertical reflector about 3 feet high should add a lot to the light hitting the panels. A bit like the round collapsible reflectors that they use for photography. You could have the rods slot into sockets on either side depending on which way the van is to the sun. When travelling it would just roll up. Fabric is available on Ebay and some carbon fibre rods and away you go. Very cheap Let me know what you think.

[@simonrutherford5738]

steve allen hi Steve I am a professional photographer. The reflector you mentioned is a Lastolite reflector. They are very flexible and any wind makes them act like a sail. They also do tend to ‘focus’ the light into a central spot which is not good for solar applications. I get what your trying to do. I worked in the NHS as a medical photograph and made a system to film in tiny babies mouths while they had cleft palate surgery. I used mirrors to get a reflected image to photograph. I had wondered about a version of this but abandoned it as it’s too bulky. Hope this helps? 😉

[@Mark_Dee]

Hi Greg, nice installation. Please concider, that you should have several angles to tilt the panels if you would (need) to make the most out of the sun irradiation. By the way I would have installed the cable inlet pointing to the rear of your car. The way it is installed now the inlets have to fight against the wind from driving. kind regards Mark

[@donwhitehead4587]

Excellent engineering followed by sound construction. Thanks Mr V for sharing👍🏻

[@songhaihong]

Best work for van job on KZbin

[@stephenvallance9692]

What a truly incredible resource you are. Just bought my van so will have these videos by my side in the weeks to come!

[@kutlut]

Mr. Greg ,I did not ever seen like that details video.You are the best I can say ......xxxxx

[@DavidSmith-dv7ih]

You look like a Italian mafia boss but with a extremely friendly voice .

[@passenger3]

Haha...so true 😆

[@poppies5095]

Careful there, it might only take half an hour....😂

[@spazda_mx5]

The unistrut's a good idea, might see if I can use that on my Transit - I hate the roof racks that mount on the rain rail.

[@DavidSmith-dv7ih]

I think you do the most informative videos on KZbin top marks and hats off to you for the amazing work you did .

[@BigVanSmallWorld]

that was so good Greg I watched it twice

[@GregVirgoe]

Mel’s World, really appreciate it buddy, thanks 😊

[@johnmandy]

Nice setup Greg, I’ve seen Ash Pollard has his panels angled to the sun and uses a prop and a ratchet strap to then keep everything tight. Sometimes the simple solutions work best. Over the past 9 months I’ve taken gadgets galore in the van, drones, cameras, laptop, tablets and more! My panel is 150w and I have 2 x 130ah batteries. Only once did we run out of power after not moving for 3 days and using the inverter for 6 hours running a slow cooker, seemed like a great idea at the time 🤦🏼‍♂️ If you’re travelling every day or two then I would say you’ll be fine. My panel is fixed and I get over 110w from it in summer and 50 to 80w in winter. I’ve moved over to everything I can possibly run from 12v and use the inverter for very rare emergency laptop or drone rapid charge. I’ve also got the ability to pull and push power via the starter battery, which saved us after the slow cooker incident. You’ll figure everything out really quickly, make tweaks & changes and end up with near perfection 👌🏻 Take care & have fun 🚐❤️

[@GregVirgoe]

You are so right John it’s not till you live in one that you realise how you could have made it better and simpler. 12v usb sockets would have been so much better than charging phones via my inverter. I’m charging stuff during the day and turning the inverter off after sunset. I don’t think I would have bothered with the Skyroam or the pc as our phones have 4G and unlimited data that only costs £25 a month upfront no contract with giffgaff. I am getting a new laptop when I get back too. 😀👍🏼

[@johnmandy]

It’s all part of the fun for me, like Apollo 13 trying to figure out what to switch on & in what order, which bits do you use most in the van and how can you get more from less. If you can see if you can get a laptop with a recent core intel 8th edition, they use much less power. Then get a 12v to 19v step up transformer to charge the laptop. That should save you loads of battery power, also get an AC power bank & charge that during the day, when you’ve got sun or are driving, then use the power bank at night for a laptop boost or even to charge phones/tablets. Just check gift gaff allow tethering off your iPhone. If they do then go for it, or checkout my recent video about mobile data in the van, you could use a giffgaff sim in that too.

[@pa_maj.MARTINI-van-MAN]

@@GregVirgoe Are you using virgin mobile Greg? Unlimited tethering. That's what I ended up with as I have their home package which you need. One could piggyback off a third party ( family member with virgin home fibre ) as long as one pays up front for the virgin mobile of-course. Maybe better Greg to put some spring locking washers on those bolted fittings to prevent vibrational loosening or a small drop of loctite if you haven't already. Did you choose to connect in series to keep the wire gauge down? Good job Greg, it looks well ❗

[@FamilyYoung-OneLifeLiveITxx]

mate loving your vids,just bought a lwb high roof here in ozz & your workmanship & ideas are awsome, well done & thank you + Keep safe

[@GregVirgoe]

Andrew Young thank you for your support and hope your own build is awesome. 😁

[@vmanns]

Thank you Greg - a job well done. I am really looking forward to your ideas for the repositioning of the panels in your future video(s). Keep it up - you're the original Gyro Gearloose, not just inventing but putting things into practice. Best regards from Germany, Volker

[@MrB2bb]

Really like your setup Greg, but I can see a problem in closing the ends of the unistruts with plastic caps. You might end up with them being filled with water during rain. Better to have them drain out on the front and end

[@hollybrigham]

It’s full of slots at the bottom of the channel!

[@FirstSuiGeneris]

*_This what I came up with and using for the tilt up. Two 12v Linear actuators to push up my panels and 30amp switch polarity reverse DC motor control. It works for me just fine._*

[@makaveli7771]

Do you have a video/pictures of the setup?

[@stephengoodier6464]

Hi Greg, just found your channel. Very impressed. Please keep the level of detail going. I'll be using you as a mentor to help me on my first build.

[@brennynewman7753]

Fantastically well informed videos. Really helpful

[@GregVirgoe]

Thank you very much 😃

[@hasanozturk1266]

I’m so happy I’m watching all night .wonderful job

[@michaelp998]

Great videos. Thanks for the tutorials I would be inclined to use all stainless unistrut / angle/ rivnuts & bolts. As the mix of metals can cause a galvanic reaction to dis similar metals. And in such an exposure to the elements the rust from cut ends etc will run down the paint work etc etc? Just a thought.

[@miwei7898]

fantastic video as always. I can see you engineering an remote controlled set of arms that will lift the panels in increments to catch the sun and a timer to insure that it will always top off your battery pack. or designing a flat panel or two that you can set out to boost the permanent ones on the roof.

[@davehubbard109]

I really like how you set this up inexpensive extremely durable and with as few of Parts as possible

[@burglarnoone]

Thanks for the video Greg, excellent as always, hope the travels are going well for you.

[@linz_in_NZ]

Gas struts - best option might be a scrap yard for some off the back of an SUV with a big tailgate - should be plenty strong enough and maybe designed to be semi outdoor a bit more? Would they only be good if you wanted the panels to go up at the same angle all the time though?? You may need to vary it the further North you go?? I'm thinking a combination of the hinges that @Travel with Jazz has and the PVC pipe and sucker feet @RV with Tito used for his window awnings might be a good option.

[@GregVirgoe]

Linzi Douglas, I will have to rematch those videos. There is a formula to work out the required force for a gas strut which I used and purchase two struts that I now have. Two issues - 1. They require a lot of force to close and will put a lot of strain on the panels when shut, I do not want to break them. 2. They will only open to one position and as you rightly point out at different times of year and location they will need to be at different angles. The search continues 🤓

[@simonsimpson4695]

Good tip about the rivnuts. Unless it's being glued, which I personally don't like the idea of, there aren't any simple ways to stop the interior nut from rotating.

[@Pugwash.]

I was going to suggest unistrut, but now I've come back to watch again I think it was here I first saw the idea! I fitted mine on with unistrut. I used unistrut clamps too, made to hold solar panels, rather than drilling into the panels.

[@MrEksatmisis]

Hi, did you use the existing holes on the roof or did you drill new ones?

[@psycholocke4090]

dear Greag. awesome explanation and neat idea using the rail (haven't had that idea myself). to build the lifting mechanism. i first would use the free room underneath the panels in between the rails to build a support frame (rectangular with an x to strengthen it. like a door frame). as fixture points on the rail. i would try to find some quick release snap in things (like for the legs on these party benches). to secure them in the upper position i would construct 2 legs, attached to each upper corner with can be prolonged and fixed to the opposite fixing point (like a diagonal strut). or you add multiple fixing points and don't care about the telescopic mechanism. i hope you get the idea and that it will be of any help. looking forward to your solution. all the best.

[@Memyselfandvan]

Thanks Greg, surprised you went in series though, I will be wiring mine in parallel

[@GregVirgoe]

Hello Michael, There are a couple of reasons why I chose series over parallel. 1. Your batteries need just over 14volts before they start charging, so in very low light I can still get some charge by adding the three voltages 2. Keeping the amps low and the voltage high means smaller cable sizes and less chance of overheating, main electric grids send electric at high voltages 33kv and 11kv so they can keep cable sizes down. 3. The MPPT charge controller will constant,y find the peak power available and give me a charge most of the day even in cloudy conditions. Hope that helps

[@Memyselfandvan]

@@GregVirgoe Makes sense Greg, I have x 3 150W panels, each being 150 watts, so 450w total. I have the 60AMP solar controller, and 2 x 220v 12 volt batteries

[@Memyselfandvan]

@@GregVirgoe Foirgot to ask, where did you find those aluminium rivnuts? Liking that idea. I also spotted you have extra rivnuts fitted, what are those provisions for? I will be doing the same as I have spot lights to go up on the roof, sides, and rear, a light bar on the front, and then x 4 wireless camera's, which will connect to a screen in my living area so I can see around me at any given time. The only windows I will have are snap narrow sliding vent windows which will be fitted in my two flares on the rear panels.

[@alanmay1945]

Yes, another great video, thanks Greg! I like it all, and altho it's a lot of power it's far better than finding later that there is'nt enough. And the extra benefit with this huge amount of power, I think, is that it will provide plenty even without any tilting, so leaving them fixed as they are, which is a really nice installation, is what may be best, only do tilting/elevating mechanisms if these prove to be needed, likely not be, as all may work very well as is. Thanks for another top video! Alan, Norfolk.

[@peterschreiber6716]

Excellent job Greg!! Enjoy your road trip!!

[@md51236]

Great video!! I am curious as to why you used self drilling roofing bolts. Didn't your sprinter have existing holes (specifically for rails) that were capped by Mercedes?

[@277kne]

Hi Greg, Hopefully you will read this. I'm re watching in 2022. Thank you for responding to my other questions. I don't have the finances for a new camper van or a new Sprinter. Have been gathering information on building a camper van. Recently I have watched KZbin videos on new class B and the electrical systems are discussed. I understand the general RV electrical systems. Was trying to determine what would work for my situation. Have you thought about a high output alternator or a second one. My concern is not getting a good balance in battery size and system. Was wondering if a larger output alternator or a separate one would be enough without solar. I would be interested it the auto start features. Charging while driving too. I understand it depends on the use. How long can the last before charging. I wouldn't be an off grid person for a lengthy time.

[@GregVirgoe]

Why are you not going with solar?

[@277kne]

@@GregVirgoe Not sure about the sun. What about the output? What size solar would be needed? I'm guessing the cost has come down. The alternator seems quicker to charge. Wouldn't hurt to have a back up? I would like an automatic charging system. These newer lithium systems in the new RV'S in America can be expensive. Was wondering how to be cost efficient without having an overkill system. 12v AC's are efficient now. Appliances would be used 1 or 2 hours a day. That's the second most draw after the ac. I think you are on Holiday. Maybe a future video on different electrical systems. You make good presentations like a professor. I like James from the FitRv.

[@277kne]

@@GregVirgoe Thought I'd let you know it's July 6,2022 when I'm re watching the video. I did go back and found your video on your electrical system. You talked about how much you can get out of a lead acid battery and how much net you get out of solar. You didn't seem too enthusiastic about that. I was interested in knowing more about the newer lithium systems. It's not good to idle a Sprinter. I figuring my needs to be close to yours and add an extra 10%. Shore power is a nessary.

[@GregVirgoe]

@@277kne we have been on just solar 100% of the time for 4 yrs full time now and the same AGM batteries too. It works brilliant 🤩

[@277kne]

@@GregVirgoe Thnk You.Thatxs wonderful to know. I'll have to look into solar. You also have your Sprinter battery charging the house batteries as you drive. I was thinking about AGM. Can always add a battery.

[@01walef]

Brilliant video with solid technical information, helps get more ideas to do own projects.

[@nosaltiesandrooshere7488]

👍 Danke fürs Hochladen! 👍 Thanks for uploading! 👍 Very good and beautiful, thank you! 👍 Sehr gut und schön, danke!

[@mrjones6501]

Great video I used this rail I sprayed them with bed liner so they never rust.

[@GregVirgoe]

Mr Jones they are galvanised so should be fine unless you cut them. Just spray the cut ends.

[@sim6699]

Perhaps linear actuators run from stepper motors along with suitably strong frame for your solar panel tilting with a remote tilt sensor

[@davidclark2286]

Hinging solar panels, thinking about it I have wondered about mc/camper rising roof hinges . Reimo used to have.a depot in the uk where they sold such things to members of the public.

[@malcolmrowe5031]

Hose channel nuts, they usually have springs underneath to hold them in position, in the Electrical trade we call them Zeb's after Zebedee from magic roundabout!

[@griffinjar]

We have a bed with that loft system. Your solar panels might not be heavy enough to hold it down! They are mighty powerful bits of kit!! Presumably you can get ones set to the power you need?

[@GregVirgoe]

You are right, I got two spare gas struts which were rated for 50kg each, but they are so strong I can't close them 😆

[@normahalliburton2908]

Hi Greg, great saying hello at the Overland Show on Saturday, wasn't it a scorcher, worth travelling from Newcastle to meet you guys. I ordered 3 x 3 metre lengths of unistrut but when it came it is super heavy. I ordered it through your link, just wondered if I had the right stuff. My husband thinks it is too heavy to put on the roof, you literally had to drag the package along the floor. I really wanted to use this method but I don't know what to do now. Anyway love your videos, I keep watching them over and over. Take care xx

[@davidoliviasophiemargaretw6154]

Greg....you are an absolute legend. Your videos are the most educating I ever found on KZbin. I am dreaming about building a campervan for me and my 3 girls however I wouldn't have the skills you have. I have to say you are an absolute hero. It's a pleasure to watch how you building your travel vehicle. One day I'll build my own van like yours. Your van has everything I wish to see in my van. If you ever decide to sell your sprinter please let me know. Now few questions. 1. Where did u learn all this? 2 . What is the total weight of your van inc baggage, gas, etc? Are u still within permitted weight? Merry Christmas Kind regards Dave

[@GregVirgoe]

Hello Dave, thanks for the lovely comment. This is within anyone’s capability I’ve never done a manual job before. I’m a mechanical services design engineer. So I may know how things work but never done any carpentry just practiced and a lot of trial and error. The van was underweight but very close and you do have to be careful not to carry to much water etc

[@davidoliviasophiemargaretw6154]

@@GregVirgoe Thanks Greg. Merry Christmas to you and your family. I've watched your videos until 4am last night. 🤦‍♂️😂

[@photonicuniverse]

Looking good Greg! Anything else you need, let us know

[@GregVirgoe]

photonicuniverse the solar setup has been working really well. We are in week 4 now and been off grid the whole time. The new controller and remote are working a treat. 😀

[@ianf8005]

If your batteries are hooked up to the alternator then angling towards the sun while driving isn't necessary. It would be helpful though, when you're parked for multiple days, but then the support system doesn't need to be very strong.

[@GregVirgoe]

I agree, a Battery to Battery charger in my case would help when driving to charge the leisure batteries. Angling the panels towards the sun really does make a big difference in the winter when the sun hours are less and the sun is lower in the sky. I do not recommend you have them elevated while driving, that is not a good idea.

[@jonnytacooutdoors]

Another great video! You think my 300 watts of panels with 200 AH of battery will do me good for camping for extended periods. Also be installing a dc to dc charger. 😮🙏🏼

[@GregVirgoe]

The additional charger will help top the battery up when driving making up any possible shortfall in solar power 👍🏼😃

[@jonnytacooutdoors]

@@GregVirgoe I’m excited 💪🏼 thanks for putting out the best information and making it comprehendible. Some guys I stop watching after I minute cuz they make it so complicated sounding😄

[@GregVirgoe]

@@jonnytacooutdoors thank you 🙏🏼 that’s nice to know. Hope all goes well with your build 😃

[@tommajor6247]

Have you looked at linear actuators to adjust the pitch of the solar panels? It might be of help to look at how hospital beds are adjusted.

[@siajnesdunk]

Just a thought. If you use gas struts, I guess they will risk to be taking a lot of force when the wind is blowing. Maybe you could enforce the lift by placing two gas struts crossing each other on the side opposite to where the hinge is? That way the hinge takes most force, and the wind forces on the gas struts will probably mostly go in the direction of where the struts are pointing. (Did that make sense?). Cheers!

[@GregVirgoe]

So they make a cross brace and support each other, not a bad idea and worth exploring. 👍🏼

[@lurcho101]

Look at sgs engineering as they can make custom gas struts for not much money.

[@markpeers5198]

Good idea for the ottaman hinges. I have have been thinking of Tv wall mounts on a rotating base Mark

[@StevenLucasMarketing]

If you do use the gas struts, they actually rely on the weight of the matress to slow the lift down. You'll need some sort of latch to stop them springing open at inopportune moments. Those struts are strong!

[@Carlitos807]

Hi Greg, first thank you so much for all these videos, your care to details, job well done & well explained to all of us is exemplary & a pleasure to follow. I bought a 2009 Sprinter MWB with the nice 3L V6 diesel engine to convert and watch religiously all of your tutorials from Belgium. I just collected 2 Unistrut rails & channel nuts for the solar panel installation and was wondering why you seemed to have drilled new holes into the roof with self tapping screws to fix these rather than using regular bolts & nuts through the factory holes in the roof (covered with plastic plugs & mastic) like I understood you explain in the intro of the video? Thanks again for everything. Charles

[@GregVirgoe]

Charles Daenens only because I left the fixing till late in my build and did not have access to the inside of the roof otherwise I would have probably used the existing holes. I would also recommend using a strip of mastic sealing strip along the gutter to help with water sealing

[@Carlitos807]

@@GregVirgoe Thanks

[@willparry6547]

Hi Greg - at 09:58 hole for cabling to enter van. Which corner of the van is this? I’m assuming rear, but nearside or offside? TIA

[@NRGFRELIFE]

Consider using 80/20 to build anything with in or on top. Solar panel frame and elevation

[@GregVirgoe]

nathan evans aluminium extrusions are very expensive here. Unistrut is a lot cheaper. 👍🏼

[@dirkschafer3707]

Is there a reason why you didn't use the manufacturer's mounting points for the rails? They are hidden under these rubber caps on the roof. So you probably would not have had to drill additional holes into the van. (On 8:37 one of those rubber caps can briefly be seen right above your rail.)

[@ASmith-lh7ex]

Good observation!! I was wondering the same thing?

[@PastorManningPhD]

Brilliant and inspirational as always. Can’t wait to do this

[@GregVirgoe]

Watch TGSNT & Hellstorm thank you very much

[@rustybits5342]

thx for these vids i'm learning so much, its all a bit scary seeing all the wiring on these vans

[@collectorsinfo]

Hi, thanks for the video. Given me some good idea's. Have you had any problems with any wind noise or feel when traveling at 50mph the panels are all safe. Maybe a wind deflector on the front edge. Couple of things to think about, some spring washers or thread lock on the 8mm knobs. They would do some damage if came loose & hit another vehicle.

[@milestehmad117]

I would use 2020 Ali extrusion you can bolt things to them and its strong enough

[@Sammo-w2y]

I was thinking about the heavy-duty gas struts, if you used them and a ratchet strap to adjust the angle - that would work. After all that's the solution used on a lot of pop up roofs

[@martink9785]

Unistrut is great stuff! Great instructions yet again, clear, concise and easy to follow. Cheers :)

[@SteveMorton]

Great video Greg, I’m pleased you got your internet working to be able to upload this video 😀 Looking forward to some more videos of your trip.

[@michellelittle133]

Hello Greg thank you for yet another helpful video. If possible I would like to ask for your advice please. We have purchased 2,175w solar panels for our relay roof and we have also purchased the plastic mounting brackets however we are unsure if these will be good enough to hold the panels without bolts in the roof and what adhesive we should use. We have tried searching online and there are so many opinions any help would be great. Thank you

[@GregVirgoe]

You need to use sikaflex 512 to stick them to the roof. Make sure the roof is extremely clean and dry and use a sika primer on the plastic parts to remove any mould releasing agents and to key the parts for sika. Use a generous amount and don’t squeeze it all out when you place them on the roof. Once fully cured they should be very strong. Best to do in a warm day as cold temp with affect curing times. Hope that helps.

[@michellelittle133]

Thank you Greg for your help.😀

[@FlatEarthReset3]

I seen a van conversion video that had a frame that allowed it to tilt the panels.

[@jacekkapanowski5815]

Hello Greg, I've been following your van build series from the start and I enjoyed it very much, thist episode is no exception. I like the way you fixed the panels to the roof. I was wondering if after a few weeks on the road you were still thinking of adding panel tilting mechanism. In my small camper van I have 2x150 W panels fixed to the roof and they are sufficient even in cloudy weather, although I don't use as much power as you probably do (e.g. no computer work, no TV). I'm looking forward to your comments on this after following weeks and months of your travel. Greetings from Poland :-)

[@GregVirgoe]

Jacek Kapanowski, after a couple of weeks we have used nothing else but solar and always had power so the need to elevate them may not be necessary, I have got nearly half a kilowatt though and have benn getting between 100-150w on cloudy days

[@More-Space-In-Ear]

Brilliant Greg. Now, I’m not an electrician so please go easy....I would of connected positive to positive to positive then to the roof and the same for the negatives......is this not a ring main/daisy change setting??🤔 I’ve an idea for the movement to follow the sun, stick the panels on a lazy Suzan and tailgate struts to higher/lower, that way you can park up any direction and just spin the panels to suit. 👍🏼😊

[@caskwith]

Neat and well executed, as expected from you of course. Any reason you didn't run Unistrut along the full length of the roof? Could have been a useful place to fix extras onto the roof in the future?

[@GregVirgoe]

I wasn't planning to put anything else up there so am happy to just cover the length of the panels. What would you put up there? 😃

[@caskwith]

@@GregVirgoe Extra solar panels maybe if you found you were lacking, maybe a storage box if space got tight in the van. Great place for vehicle spares like extra wheel etc. Sports equipment too if you were into that kind of thing.

[@alexrhodes2750]

greg what thickness angle alloy did you use????? i can only source 1.5 mm is this thick enough????

[@eme1one]

I noticed that you cut the solar panel cables quite short, which could potentially leave the connectors (MC4?), in between the panel frames, where water could drip down. You mentioned losses in unnecessarily long cables, as a driver for that decision. I highly recommend leaving enough slack in the cables (i.e. 10-20cm), and fixing the connectors, snug into the frame, away from the elements. Although, they are all IP68, there's much less risk for corrosion, water damage, etc., when you utilize the aluminium frame of the panel.

[@GregVirgoe]

You said it yourself they are waterproof and designed to be installed outside 😃

[@nmartin5551]

Hey Greg! I’m sure it would only take a half an hour to figure out how to tweak your system! Fabulous video!

[@banntheman7925]

THANK YOU AGAIN GREAT VID HOPE YOU HAVING A GREAT TIME IN THE EC

[@stevedon4257]

hi greg thanks for another great video. when would I run the cabling from the solar panels into the van. would it be when I first wired up the van or later on. does it matter how far the charge controller s away from the panels? thanks in advance

[@GregVirgoe]

If you wire the panels in series the amps will be low and voltage high so that means the cable size is small and you can run longer cables to the charger. Off the charger to the batteries the amps is higher so the cable size is larger so keep those shorter. I put my cables to the roof in at the start to hide them. You can buy solar cables separately or just fit your panels early on.

[@stevedon4257]

@@GregVirgoe thanks very much i have a habit of going at 300 miles an hour. i reread your script and fould the 4mm cable link. ok cool ill run the cables on first fix. thanks again

[@edhass6774]

Hi, Don't suppose you can remember the gap between the two vents can you mate. I have 86 inches, hoping it will be enough, if I use the uni slotted rail.

[@alanmay1945]

Hi Greg, I was wondering if you had chosen rigid glass panels because you thought flexible panels are to be avoided. I had intended to glue flexible panels directly to roof, but I would very much appreciate your opinions on doing this, as I reckon you're the 'go to guru' on every aspect of a perfect van build. Thanks, Alan, UK.

[@GregVirgoe]

Hello Alan, there are a couple of point that put me off was the efficiency and lifespan, both are less than a rigid panel.

[@peterstreet4430]

Hi Greg hope you guys are well was just thinking could you use some 20mm metal box section instead of those strips?

[@normanmazlin6741]

That's a great job Greg, interesting you connect in series. I read your comments below and understand the reasoning - hope it works out. Might the cut ends of the gal U channels cause a messy bit of corrosion? Did you treat the ends? About adjustable panels, I often think as I am driving down the freeway at 120kph in my van about the wind shear pressures on the under surfaces of the panels and I am happy to have my panels securely fixed to the roof with NO chance of flapping free like a great wing. However, here in Aus often the problem is too much sun. Hope you are having a safe and wonderful trip thru Europe and we get to see some travel vids soon.

[@forrestdavis961]

Nice job Greg, as usual!

[@Raul689]

Thank you for the video

[@GregVirgoe]

You’re welcome 😇

[@ruinunes8251]

An easier solution for your soldering station, is buying a 18V Ryobi soldering tool ( I noticed you have some Ryobi tools, so you have the batteries) it is worth every penny as you don’t need to be dragging cables behind you.