Grinding Oil Return Channels

[@elvetost]

...and wins by a miniscus!!!! You are a LEGEND mate....

[@brianbvachek3219]

You have got to let us in on your sprayable mineral spirits set up! Unless its in a separate video that i havent found yet. I paint cars for a living, and i love thinner for all of its uses! However ive never seen someone spray thinner with an air gun!! I would love to see or hear how you made that work! My girlfriend is picking up her 1992 6 bolt today from the machine shop. I have referenced your videos countless times during this build, and plan to reference them throughout the rest of the build. You are a hero for everyone in the dsm community!

[@Jafromobile]

Look up "DIY Parts Washer"

[@danielbesingi7698]

Your vivid explanations of all and why you do what you do catches my undivided attention. Your great man. Keep up the good work.

[@tehzimmy]

As always, I'm impressed with your patience and am grateful for the inspiration you provide for pushing my build to the limits. Strong work

[@thejoshasmr2286]

Hey man. I'm kinda stuck and I think you may be able to help me. I watched your 2.0 fsi oil pump video on youtube and was wondering if you new the part number for the bolt that holds the gear on the left side of the pump. Mine broke and I can't seem to get a number to order one. Thanks man. Josh [e-mail]

[@Nikzilla33]

Man you just fucking looooooove grinding. Every single goddamn video is hours of footage of you grinding down blocks or heads. You are the grinder man.

[@Jafromobile]

It's not so much the grinding that I love... it's more about loving the results. I'd better get to like painting real quick... because there's a lot of that happening in my near future. Oh those pesky results...

[@s0nnyburnett]

I've never heard so much about oil in such a short time.

[@240sxmetal4]

I crave your videos. When I saw this come up on my feed, I got more excited I thought I could get on the internet...

[@Ronke01]

I accidently stumbled upon one of your videos. I like your style Jafro, great and helpfull series of videos. Even though I do not own a a DSM... I subscribed to your channel and watched every video you posted, it gave me quite some sleepless nights last week... I even posted some of your videos up on some forums I frequently visit, because I found them so interesting and well made... You truly inspired me man and I'm having a go at making my own instructional videos on a rebuild I am performing at the moment. It's quite hard to film yourself and give comments at the same time, feels awckward... And I am doing them in english as well, though it's not my native language, which even makes it more weird, as I'm talking to myself in my garage :) Again, great videos, can't wait for the next ones, please hurry up ;)

[@jahir1204]

Great video and diligent work! This small things are what make a build special. I'd do this just for the learning opportunity and the peace of mind.

[@magna59]

Am very impressed, great piece of work. Had a conversation in UK with one of the operators of Volvo based National coach ( Greyhound like bus network ) who said that some of their units were on their first engine with 2 million miles on them, 'cos effectively they ran long and hard enough to boil / cook the condensation out of the oil & serviced them often .

[@Jafromobile]

If my engine rusted from just light condensation from not running long enough, I'd take it out back and shoot it. I hope I'm not scaring people by posting this... lol... this engine was horribly abused. It is true that light and infrequent use is harder on machinery than continuous operation. Surprisingly, the same thing applies to hard drives as well, not just cars. Drives that never spin down rarely fail.

[@RotaryTurbo]

***** Yes, the hard drive thing is very true. I've owned many PCs and I run them all the time. Haven't had a hard drive failure in any of my machines so far (knock on that wood). I keep everything backed up, but it's just not something I've seen in anything except secondary machines that I was toying with. Even those gave fair warning instead of just stopping. You can hear the read/write head crash and pick back up and hear the disk spin down a bit then back up when they're about to fail. KA-tinnnng.

[@bbqBaconNinja]

Wins by a meniscus.....lmfao. Great video as always. I'm sure you know how much we appreciate your videos other wise you wouldn't keep doing them but non the less........We really appreciate you taking the time to do these videos as we know it takes extra time to not only edit and upload but the pain in the ass it as to set up the camera and work around it. Thanks again, you saved many of us countless hours ( that are now spent cleaning and grinding lol) and probably saved a few 4G's in the process.

[@tonkatoytruck]

Thanks Jafro for sharing. I love to watch you work. It makes my load seem easier.

[@WilbertRamos777]

Man i enjoy every video you make that's awesome the way you explain everything that's cool i wish u live closer i would give u all my cars to work on with out a doubt keep making them videos that's awesome be bless

[@Jafromobile]

Thanks man! I've just spent the entire day writing, recording and synchronizing 21 minutes of audio to cover less than half of the next video. I'm glad that people appreciate how much work is involved with making that happen. lol.

[@WilbertRamos777]

Lol..thanks to you im watching ur videos for the past hr honestly that's cool keep up the good work wow it sure takes alot of time i knw you love doing it cus other wise u wouldn't be making them i love the way you work and really im learning alot from you.. you make it look so simple and easy that I've done some work on my car i never thought i was capable of thanks alot. ..

[@Vekurus]

Old school hot-rodding is healthy for ANY engine.

[@nonyadamnbusiness9887]

This looks like a good way to crack a block in a high power application.

[@Jeffball610]

I love these little details. But it's kind of scary that the inside of an oily block would have rust. Yet another reason I love the desert that I live in.

[@Jafromobile]

Watch the diagnosis video. This thing was filled with water for years. :P Kinda why I said "your equipment should never go through what this block went through". But yeah, I envy your car-preserving desert!

[@juanyboo12345]

THANK YOU JAFRO !!!

[@frankenfocus]

Man awesome information in your videos!!! I plan on using alot of this information on my build. Ford focus 2.3 na build.

[@ace66067]

Wow really liked your video can you please do more about this oil flow

[@Urran1]

Just out of curiosity. If rust is a big enemy, and is killing viscosity of oil, then why not remove it fully? Where I come from, most of the year road is covered with salt. So basically everything rusts in time if you dont protect them from it. And what we have learned through years is that wire-brushed (even by angle grinder or dremel) metal is not free of rust, it has to be threated with acid prior to painting it (even with acid prep paint) to get rid of the rust in the pours of metal, or else it WILL come back. Even if a surface is threated with a lamel sanding disk with and angle grinder, when threated with phosphoric acid it has been seen clearly (it "marks" rust black) that there can be seen rust spots on the pours of the metal. Of course it necessarily doesn't come back the next month, if it has been covered with oil or alkyd paint, but it will be back if not fully removed. BTW love your passion for these things! Keep up the good work!

[@Jafromobile]

You are correct. Wire brushed surfaces even tend to rust faster than the original casting, however; the deeply-embedded rust is far less of a problem with oil contamination than loose flaky surface rust. Will it come back quickly? Yes if it goes through what it previously endured. If I have any say in this thing's future, it will never sit under a collapsed pole barn with the head off getting rained full of water. Now that the surface rust is removed, if this thing gets put back together quickly, the deeply-embedded rust won't stand much of a chance at returning because everything will get heavily-coated with oil. All of this rust formed because this block was basically an aquarium for more than 2 years. If I were using some type of crankcase coating, I'd consider using a rust converter... but I'll just be relying on oil as the surface sealant. I guess my passion is stronger for the GSX than it is for the Hyundai. :P Thank you!

[@CPLtwinkie]

love your videos!! start building that beast!

[@Jafromobile]

Already started! :P I'm not camping on the Hyundai. I want it back on the road yesterday. It would be there already if it didn't require a few videos. 'can't let a catastrophic failure go to waste. I'm going to document why this thing can get away with high compression at 20 PSI using cast pistons, and then assemble it. I've got my game plan set. Thanks for following the progress!

[@TPGDSM]

I'd love to know the hours on that air dremel! Great vid as always 👍

[@stevehammel2939]

Instead of making channels in the crank and block why not add an aerospace type oil shedder coating? The oil return holes can probably be enlarged too. the main bearing oil holes that go to the oil gallery are not always the same size so I will check them with a reamer.

[@MortifiedU]

Grr, so I have everything out of the discovery except the small block.. the conrod is rusty after one blown piston. I wasn't going to remove it, but now want to after seeing this video and the oil galley mod..

[@enlilstyxx1011]

yup, when I build and engine I de burr ALL casting flash and polish nearly EVERYTHING inside the block,crankcase and Especially the valley and Open up the oil returns

[@gpt5002]

Lmfao.. cold oil race. Just what I was waiting my whole life to see

[@thatoriginalguy]

May I ask what's the benefit of using Mineral Spirits/Paint Thinner when at the end of this particular project? Is it to help clean? Does it act as a sealant? Lastly, is there an alternative to this particular product? Many thanks in advance for your help on this. Andrew

[@audiogamer]

why cant there be an amazing youtuber like jafro... that has a b13, i guess jafro just sets the bar so high no one wants to attempt it, tomsturbogarage is awesome and etcg, but no nissan guys, anyone have a suggestion? maybe im missing somthing... as always jafro thank you for your time, keep up the great work!

[@Pull_It_Apart_Paul_Ham_CB]

I look forward to your videos, pitty your not doing an AMC rambler 360 there are non on the net

[@Jafromobile]

I had a 1953 Rambler Wagon once. Once.

[@Daylan_Chapman]

raising windshield wipers off the windshield so they don't freeze to it.....why didn't I think of that?

[@d-serieshuck2317]

MORE, MORE MORE!!!!!!! Great Vid as usual bro!!!!!!

[@puppynosee]

you could probably get that plug out by welding a bolt to it. it looks like is big enough for that to be an option. the heat from the welder would probably help to loosen the bolt as well.

[@Jafromobile]

If it weren't the Hyundai, then that's exactly what I'd do. But it's the Hyundai. :\

[@SadamFlu]

You know your videos look like chocolate in my subscription feed.

[@Jafromobile]

Your comments in my chocolate video are like the creme filling!

[@maldo72]

Kerp these tech vids coming nice work On a side note u need a bigger garage ....so u can do more then one car at a time :) ever thought about using a couple of truck containers to make a cool garage this can be a low buck solution

[@Jafromobile]

Indeed I do. But money spent on a garage right now prevents projects from being done. If I could just put all the parts from all my broken DSMs back in the cars, I'd have tons of room!

[@jetjazz05]

The grinding is pretty cool, but you should check out a video by user "Stop the Rust", if you search for molasses rust removal it'll come up as one of the first few videos on KZbin. I bet if you did what you did here and then did the molasses thing you'd be able to guarantee 100% removal of all rust. Only issue is coating the block after it's soaked with an anti-rust measure as it's 100% pure oxidation candy once it's been rinsed off.

[@Jafromobile]

You are right about oxidation candy. It really doesn't take long. If you can keep the parts at a consistent temperature and out of humidity, it buys you time, but they REALLY need to be soaked in clean oil afterwards. Thanks for the tip about molasses rust removal!

[@DJDevon3]

Are you satisfied with using mineral spirits and compressed air? No hot tank or parts wash? Just seems like there is still going to be particulate junk in there no matter how well you do it with that method.

[@apworksearch]

Could your objective of polishing the inside of the block and adding channels so that oil flows better to the oil pan. which is the only direction gravity will take it. Could this work so well that the crank will now spin surrounded or immersed in more oil than normal/before causing some resistance? ThAnks for the videos I love them.

[@Jafromobile]

Nah, The FULL oil level of the engine on the dipstick is based off of how far that level in the pan RISES when all of the oil is in the pan (car off). The oil level drops at startup because of what it takes to fill the pressurized side, but it doesn't stay consistent after that. It's probably about a quart and a half to 2 quarts to fill up the main oil gallery, oil cooler, crank, rods, head and hydraulic valvetrain . Maybe more? How much oil is draining down the crankcase at any given time varies based off of how you're driving, and the oil temperature. On the low pressure side of things, returning it to the sump is the best thing you can do with it. There's no benefit to having it drain back slowly. It will safely be out of the way of the crank because of how much oil capacity has been pumped out of the pan into the pressurized oil system. We're probably talking about a drainage benefit of a half-cup's worth of oil level in the pan at a hot idle, max. Even if it yielded 2 cups more capacity, it won't put a big dent in the oil level at idle. Not even a quarter inch because the pan is so wide at that section. But the pan narrows significantly as it gets closer to the pickup. It's shaped like | __/ L•/ the • is the pickup. At wide open throttle when you're dumping the contents of your pan into the cylinder head and all over the crankcase at 8500 RPMS... that's when the oil level drops to its lowest level. That's when you want it back in the pan as quickly as possible. That's when this modification makes the biggest difference. The point of this modification is to keep the oil above the sump submerged and deep enough that it can't create vortexes and suck air into the oil pump. Kinduv like the little tornado things circling your drain when you drain your bathtub. We take them for granted whenever we can't see them when the car's all bolted back together. Fluids still do that kind of stuff even when we're not looking. This is just cheap insurance to help prevent it. Drainage channels. I didn't invent it, but the topic was worth a video. ;) I wanted to take time to answer your question fully because it was a very good on-topic question. You gave me 10 minutes of your time, and I thank you.

[@DANIELO6509]

you are the number one i like your job you my master tanks for the videos

[@PHUSII]

tight race.

[@dms20dms20]

Hello from New Zealand, love your videos, so fun and informative. I changed my transmission to a manual using your clutch vids and some info from a dsm forum, thanks for that. Can't wait for your next video. If I win Lotto you are invited to come on a working holiday to help me fix my evo bus, it's a Chariot 7 seater 4G63T AWD needs your touch.

[@2004dsgmach1]

So "jafro" I understand the rod bearing failed because of the high oil pressure it experienced. But I'm having a hard time figuring out why it was making that particular rattle from original video. Was that just the rod bearing making noise from being Beaton and just created excessive clearance?

[@derrickquintal]

Hey Jafro! Quick question. Now admittedly I'm new to your videos, and maybe you've already answered this question, but, while polishing the inner crankcase does allow the oil to drain faster back to the pan for recirculation, doesn't it also reduce surface area that aids in cooling?

[@Jafromobile]

Yes, but the primary job of the crankcase isn't cooling. If there are overheating problems that develop from doing something like this, then there's already something else that's horribly wrong. You have an oil cooler and a coolant system that should be more than efficient enough not to need the block's help at doing their jobs. This engine previously didn't have an oil cooler, and I'm adding one. :) Good question!

[@derrickquintal]

Ah yes, very good and thank you for the quick reply! Looking forward to watching many more of your videos.

[@dharmakissoon]

nice mod on the crank shaft, i'll do that when i'm balancing it , from the looks of your crankshaft its balanced, do the motor shakes?

[@alexcockerill]

i was hoping for a 40 minutes video lol still great

[@Jafromobile]

I wish I had a 40 minute topic! :D There's plenty more in the works...

[@alexcockerill]

I'm sure! i have a old 80s 750 nighthawk that i will put in my golf cart soon!

[@Jafromobile]

I think that should be a 3 season mini-series!

[@MadWeiner]

Would these procedures be a waste of time on a 2008 Suzuki sx4 2.0 engine?

[@Bobbit323]

I was just wondering, if you were to go to this much prep work.. same as the glyptol video.. couldn't you just use engine enamel paint on the inside of the block? I have a 4G54 out of a pajero/montero and the inside of the block was coated with some kind of treatment.. actually both of my 4G54 motors have some kind of black coating on the interior, i wonder why Mitsubishi decided not to do it on their 4G63s?

[@Jafromobile]

That coating is not likely going to be a standard enamel paint. There is a black crankcase coating available, but I don't know what it's called? Many paints will have adhesion problems in a hot oily crankcase, and if it's not the right formulation, or if the prep work was done wrong prior to application, it can actually kill your engine. I'd love to see a ceramic coating baked onto factory parts, but nobody selling cars wants them to last forever, so it's unusual to find something like that on factory parts. I'm not aware of any cars that come with a crankcase coating?

[@DatBlueHusky]

I WAS going to sleep but....

[@nezerac]

Story of my life -_-.

[@BriskAxe]

Is that similar to a port and polish? I've heard friends throw the phrase around and never knew exactly.

[@Jafromobile]

Not quite the same thing. It's a polish job alright... But a port and polish job usually is a smoothing and contouring of air passageways in the head, and sometimes a polishing of the combustion chamber on the dome sides of the head. The crankcase doesn't participate in much of any airflow. It has a breather system, but it doesn't benefit from this.

[@dharmakissoon]

what did you really did with the crankshaft , cut it? do a video about modding crankshaft please.

[@CodeMasterRapture]

With doing this, would adding a few more ounces or more of oil help with the aeration you were speaking of? If so, how would you tell if you do have an aeration problem?

[@Jafromobile]

The big concern is not over-filling the crankcase. If the oil level is too high at low RPM (when less oil hasn't flowed to other areas of the engine) then it's possible for the oil level and the crankshaft to begin slapping into each other. Trust me, you'll feel/hear that one happen. One way aeration can be observed by frothy oil on the dipstick when you check it. Air bubbles in the oil kinda thing. Air bubbles are bad, m'kay? M'kay. Good question! It made me stop and scratch my head for a second.

[@PiezPiedPy]

do you know about removing casting lines and sharp edges to improve strength? you might as well do them too

[@Jafromobile]

Yes! I'm far from ever reaching the strength limits on this block. I've done it on another one that's up next for assembly. I can't wait.

[@PiezPiedPy]

sweet, you know your shit, i'll be watchn

[@Jafromobile]

What's really amazing is how you mentioned WD40 and a toothbrush. Once I realized I haven't flipped that video live yet, I stopped laughing and the room fell silent realizing you just predicted something that's in the movie I have yet to flip live. I actually did that in the video nobody's seen yet. I might know a thing or two... but YOU sir... You are psychic! Edit: I used it as a pre-treatment for the parts washer. You'll see. I'm flipping it live any minute.

[@PiezPiedPy]

Probably all the LSD from my teenage years lol

[@Jafromobile]

There's less than a 1 in 7 Billion chance that someone on this planet could have that kind of timing. I hope you're not a one trick pony because I'd really like for you to pick my lotto numbers. It just went live. No foolin'.

[@mikewilson4286]

thanks broski

[@inspetorgambiarra]

Maravilhoso, parabéns!

[@mikewilson4286]

I need a oil catch can vid. for my dsm 6 bolt got most of it but how do u return the oil to the motor with out all the psi. whats the best set up venting crank and top end of the motor jafro ?????????????????????????????????????????????????????

[@Jafromobile]

You don't return the oil. That's what the can is for. The oil vapor leaving the engine with oxides, moisture and burnt hydrocarbons should be considered contaminated. The can's just a container to condense into. You need to empty it occasionally, but don't worry about the stuff it catches. You just need adequate ventilation to let it escape, and depending on your style of catch can, you might need a hose going from the catch can to the intake (pre-turbo) so that it pulls vacuum on the can. Some just have a breather filter rather than an intake hose, and I'm not a fan of those because the filter gets saturated and then they leak all over the engine bay. Some people disable their PCV system and use the standard valve cover breather along with the PCV port to allow more air to leave the engine un-restricted. I 2 welded -8AN (2 x 3/8" ID ports) bungs onto my valve cover and plugged both of those holes. There's a video called "Valve Cover Modification" in my videos that shows how I did it.

[@kicknhobo]

Thanks!

[@HighClassTaylor]

Crazy fuck no, patient extremely

[@Jafromobile]

Don't think about it, just start doing it. Before you realize it, you're almost finished. Patience is the dividing line between competent mechanics and hack-job mechanics. :P It takes patience to do any difficult thing correctly. So as long as you resolve yourself to do whatever it takes to do the job right, you are in control of that dividing line. ;)

[@maldo72]

Cool stuff here utubers we should band together for some fund rasing for a " expand garage project" This is true gear head guy bringing hotrodding to the next gen of people Hyundai. This the meaning of ("hot rodding") instead of spending money on all the top line flashy parts you show the true spirt of hotrodding.. taking stock style parts and making it fast oh yea spending hours polishing out the bottom side of the block for that extra ounce of power ... this is old time secerts to power and passing it foward to the next gen is cool .... (when your done ) i would love to see the wtf look when a unexpected pony car gets blasted by a Hyundai lol ... priceless. .. ;)

[@boakyeosborn3893]

my fiat 850 crankshaft seal the flywheel side liking and I need help

[@Jafromobile]

Might as well do a clutch job while you're in there. Same exact job but the flywheel's gotta come off, too. Many cars have an engine seal housing that can be removed and serviced. A 4g63 does anyway. I can't speak for your Fiat. The clutch job (if it's a manual) is cheap insurance to ensure you don't have to go back in there to later replace the clutch that is probably oil contaminated if that seal is leaking.

[@valleyhick03]

Did you just imbalance your crankshaft.. to show a vertical drop of oil... you know that thing spins on the inside?

[@Jafromobile]

No. That's a junk crankshaft. Used it just for the example... lol!

[@bigl4201]

i swear these videos belong in the Bible.