4g63 Block Cleanup & Oil System Mods

With no data other than another person's testimony and from observing the condition of failed rod bearings I was able to determine this engine suffered problems from high oil pressure. There are 3 modifications that wanted to perform to its oil system, and 2 parts I chose to replace. All of the videos that go into greater detail about these modifications and parts are linked from this video. Though I've covered these topics, this is a video of the work being done to the Hyundai because it's part of its mod list.
Also in the process I've stripped and removed all gaskets in preparation for parts washing. All of these tasks can be completed without an air compressor by taking your time with a razor blade or using electric grinding tools. If you're doing this kind of work, I strongly suggest for time's sake that you use an air compressor. If you have access to an air compressor and any of these [cheap] tools, then you can do these kinds of modifications for less than $20. NAPA sells everything but the spudger (below) individually so there's no need to buy these consumable supplies in bulk.
3m bristle discs:
lmgtfy.com/?q=3...
I used this cleaning up the oil pan. It's a spudger. An electronics tool.
lmgtfy.com/?q=s...
I also used 3m Scotch Brite wheels to clean the oil pan's gasket surface.
lmgtfy.com/?q=r...

[@TurboMitsubishi]

Wish I lived closer to someone like you.

[@DatBlueHusky]

there is people like him but usually live in the dark, i found a guy just like jafro when i bought a car off of him.

[@freeshavacado7378]

Ran into your vids and I gotta say they are one of the more detailed I've seen. I'm a Honda person myself but the techniques can be applied to any engine. Oh yeah I just wanted to say you introduced me to the biggest life hack when it comes to disassembling an engine, using ice cube trays. Mind blown here for not thinking about that.

[@JonoSann]

I use a piece of emery cloth over an old plate glass table to clean up most gasket flanges. Also after a couple of strokes you can tell whether a part is flat or not. It works so well for flattening surfaces that I have run without a turbine inlet gasket for 50,000km+ with no leak whatsoever.

[@wingman358]

i too use plate glass... but just wonderin, have you ever checked how flat it actually is?

[@michaelyeo6192]

+Jafromobile I see what you are saying, a very good point no one else has ever put out there. Thank you very much for taking the time out to reply. I will be running them now. Oil pump going on the engine has done 500miles so there should be no problems with that in regards to worn out gears. A careful inspection and clean of the squirters especially will be done before installation for piece of mind. Thanks again :)

[@tsifreak]

Glad to see you removed the gasket material correctly for all to see. I recommend doing it the exact same way.

[@markvillafranco]

This is better then going to red box awesome entertainment!!!! Thanks again jafro.

[@molsenice]

I stayed at work to watch this vid since I caught it as it was posted - I was view 39 or something... Your channel is basically the only thing I go online to check anymore - e-mail, and Jafro. Oh - keep the snow, it has been below zero up here in NY so you get very little sympathy for snow. Your tougher than snow - can't wait to see and hear the first start.

[@Matty-Z]

Awesome...another great video! Keep it up Jafro, we love you!

[@zx8401ztv]

Old gaskets and rtv, now im sure your trying to give me nightmares lol :-)) But when its all clean and ready to assemble its no longer a task, just slowly putting it together with the knowledge its spot on, and worth the work :-))

[@jetjazz05]

You're so thorough and knowledge filled for a non-professional it's frightening, and the fact you experience motor failure from time to time do to various internal strains makes me think there's no way I could ever take on a project like this. I'm afraid at the very least I just don't have the eye for detail like you do. It's not that I don't want it, it's just that meticulously cleaning for hours on end makes me pull out chunks of my own hair... lol

[@Jafromobile]

Never forget this... there's no engineering problem that time and money can't solve. You can do everything you see me do in these videos. You can do it successfully. The eye for detail part isn't an issue if you take the time to get familiar with how everything fits together. The only limiting factor for any individual (and mileage varies from one to the next) is the level of patience they have achieved. Doing things right means not rushing. As long as you resolve to fix it correctly no matter what it takes, then the engineering problems will never stand a chance. If you didn't believe that deep down inside... you wouldn't be watching my videos. ;) I'm glad that you do.

[@tonynguyen7138]

Why is it so fun to see you clean parts? LOL

[@markphilpot4981]

Well now, and the hits just keep on comin’! Scrapping crap off of surfaces is getting to be a habit. You bagged the crap out of the grooves and opened up the oil slots to get that oil flowing better. Filter with cooler and oil pressure fitting, things a looking up! Then came a great white whiz from the sky! Zippedee doodah!🤣🙃😊🙄

[@TurboTyler]

OO the time with a razor blade vs factory pressed on gaskets last summer in the sweltering garage doesn't seem so bad compared to the boring winter.

[@jtmagicman25]

a cup wire wheel on a drill will not damage aluminum, unless you spin it too fast and press too hard. I have done this for 12 years and never had an issue.

[@jtmagicman25]

and... if the razor catches it takes chunks out!

[@andregross7420]

It will actually damage aluminum in the long run. Steel or stainless steel bristles will "gall" aluminum. Although it wont hurt a thing, especially of you use liquid gaskets or composite gaskets.

[@jtmagicman25]

Andre Gross OH, I forgot that it has to be a soft wire wheel, the stiff one's will do damage. My fault. I've tried both ways and razors always did more damage and took 12x longer. 30 secs -1 min with wire wheel vs 15 min with a razor and cleaner, no real mechanic would waste that much time, they are paid in flat rate.

[@andregross7420]

Yeah, brass wouldn't hurt aluminum nearly as fast as S or SS.

[@351cleavland]

Actually, its okay to use the clear bathroom silicone sealant. You must be VERY careful that you do not get any toliet paper stuck in the oil galleys. That where you draw the line!

[@Jafromobile]

I laughed at this for a solid minute. I did not see the TP coming...

[@TurboTyler]

Haa my friend said "Do you want me to put the oil pan on"? I said sure, later on I went to flip the motor back over and found the oil pickup on the table. Nothing better than scraping a very good rtv job and cork gasket off just to buy another and do it all again.

[@DJDevon3]

Come on scotch brite for air tools cleaning the oil pan gasket... that's almost like cheating it was too easy! With the amount of work you're doing I'm seeing you pick up some new techniques. Is it weird that I get excited when you improve your skills in cleaning oil galleys? Too bad for the snow... should we expect to see a box of doughnuts for this build?

[@Jafromobile]

How'd you like that latest skill I picked up? When I pick them up, I keep handing them to you... :D You're going to love it.

[@pauljanssen2624]

Are used to do a lot of heads on Fiats and I had a gentleman do the head work for me any clean the heads and carburetor cleaner which was an awesome way to get everything clean oil galley everything

[@g6qwerty]

Oh man cleaning rtv off of sealing surfaces, I remember that well a time consuming way to go.

[@Pull_It_Apart_Paul_Ham_CB]

Another great video thank you. When is the next one?

[@aguia473]

friend I am from Portugal do these Mitsubishi engines give you a lot of problems?

[@ericmeza629]

I first want to say great videos n such attention to detail!! I love what u do!! Keep making videos n we will keep continuing to watch them... On another note I wish to ask you a question see what's your thoughts or expertise ... 1994 mighty max (4G64 SOHC) 2.4l ... Wanting to swap out the head with a 1G 4G63 turbo DOHC... I know it can be done but don't know my way around JDM/DSM... Any input would greatly be appreciate it!... Again thanks for the videos keep them coming!!

[@g.posselt]

hey i just love your videos and i love to see someone else loving engines as much as i do (not saying why will u cleaning it? it will get dirty in fisrt start.... (here in Brazil we chance the oil 250miles after build a engine to drain out the dirty thats why we dont have so much great engines around here) but anyway i wanna to add something, This is the second time that i saw u place your crankshaft in banch in horizontal. OK in the school they ever toldme to never do this cuz the wheigt of it doesnt get a necessary "straight" i dont know if u understand. anyway they always toldme to place it in vertical to all the weight get perfectly distribuated and this way doesnt damage the crank. Tnks for my favorite hobbie bye

[@seth93lx]

Hey jafromo for starters I want to thank you for your videos. I followed your videos and did my very first rebuild and it was a success this winter:). Now for my question so I got 4g63 NA block with a 7bolt g61 head with mystery Pistons and crank. ( picked up the motor mid build from a fellow Dsmer who passed away) iv got the balance shafts removed and about to start block prep. I was wondering that running a NA black without any holes for oil squirters and a 1990 Ofh if my oil pressure is just going to skyrocket With this block / head combo. I don't know yet if the prior owner machined the bolt holes either or just torqued down used head bolts and called it a day if that's even possible to due? Any input would be great and thanks again for the help.

[@spencermillsful]

Jafro, would it be a bad idea to use the roloc bristle discs on the mating surfaces with the routing assembly still installed? I have my motor broken down to a shortblock with the rotating assembly still installed, and I don't really want to take it out if I don't have to.

[@benh020]

Hey Jafromobile, i would love to see you cover an f20c out of an s2000. its my belief that these motors have poor oil flow to the cams and in particular tend to seize up the intake cam for some reason. what kind of mods could i do to get better oil to the cams and girdles?

[@briankee10]

Hello master , I need your help , please!. Let's see , when I turn on my car ( Mitsubishi RVR sports gear x3, engine 4g63) the oil pressure is 80 psi for 800 RPM (for 65°F). but when the engine starts to heat, the oil pressure drops to 0 psi (200°F). What do you think ???? Note: my Metales are new.

[@treyblue5549]

are you gonna use this 6bolt head or just using it because the clean up is already done on the 2g head?

[@tyronenatewa803]

Would a balance shaft chain cause a 2004 Chevy Malibu ecotec not to start

[@Jafromobile]

It would if that chain is wrapped up in the crank sprocket. It would cause it to not even crank. A simple balance shaft belt failure typically destroys one of these 4g63 engines like the one in this video because it wraps on the crank, jumps time and bends all the valves. I've never taken an EcoTec engine apart to look at it, but it's a decade newer and it may have safeguards to prevent stuff like this from happening?

[@marglar1982]

Hey Jaffro, I've been watching your channel and presentations on your view of the auto mechanic industry and time as u put it. after watching this I do have a question have you ever torn down a Subaru EJ255? if not would you ever consider doing one as a side project from a junkyard?.

[@Jafromobile]

+marglar1982 Don't they use that engine in bush planes? I've done timing belts on a few Legacys, and one SVX. None of them were difficult, if not one of the easiest engines to time. So much room to work. But I'd totally not install one back in a Subaru. I'd bolt it into a Volkswagen Rabbit pickup with leaf springs and a narrowed Ford Explorer rear end. Don't get me started...

[@jonathancano2580]

Hey my name is Jonathan I'm 17 and would love to rebuild my 2000 Mitsubishi Eclipse GS he has a 4g64 2.4 16 valve engine and would like to know where I can a rebuild kit for half the price or if I'm getting the right one.. please help..

[@raypinyoko6601]

What is the size of the mata porting

[@BoostedByV]

Great video , keep them coming

[@michaelyeo6192]

What is your thoughts on the oil squirters on the 2g 7bolt like in my lancer evo 2 gsr ? Im about to rebuild my engine so would like to know whether to modify/delete them before I make a start. Im sure you have heard of the possibility of the squirters causing crankwalk. I'll be running Wiseco forged Pistons so squirters may not be necessary for my build ? I'm hoping for around 500bhp so the more oil I can get to cool those Pistons the better. Thanks for any input :)

[@Jafromobile]

Michael Yeo I don't believe the oil squirters have ever caused a definitive, prove-able case of crankwalk. But opinions are opinions, just like everyone who's ever claimed that they had a case of crankwalk caused by their oil squirters. Proof is in the evidence, and what factors were considered or omitted. I believe that oil squirters could possibly fail if they ever got trash in them. But ask yourself where that trash came from to begin with... and whether or not oil squirters (which always squirt on an engine with a working oil system) could negatively affect the engine's designed oil pressure if they're stuck open? Since they _always_ squirt when the engine is turning, of course not. They could only cause a failure if the oil pump gears were so badly worn that the oil pump can't deliver 10 PSI of oil pressure at idle. Again, not the oil squirters' fault if that's how that engine's oil system is working. They're only worth removing if you have low oil pressure, and if you have low oil pressure, you already have a problem other than the oil squirters.

[@PHUSII]

great job!

[@frankl54]

He what's your thought on soda blasting for cleaning engine parts?

[@tomashton7208]

10 pounds oil oil pressure per 1000 rpm is fine, at idle it should be around 40-60

[@Jafromobile]

Cold, yeah. Sure, I agree. Cold. Maybe even 75 PSI isn't totally out-of-hand if it's cold enough. But a 4g63 turbo car with 60 PSI oil pressure at *warm idle* has some serious problems. It's "uptight" to say the least. Spec on a 4g63 turbo is 11.4 PSI+ at curb idle speed when oil temperature is 167° to 194°F. I like how they just put the + on there (in some non-factory literature it says 11-23 PSI). Most people prefer to run them around 20 pounds at idle, but performance builds tend to run better when their oil clearances are set up a little on the looser side. Oil pressure in the 40-60 PSI warm idle realm would make me want to suggest running 5W20 oil to deal with those tight oil clearances and create a more stable oil film layer. I'm trying to be helpful, not critical. You can float main and rod bearings if your oil pressure is too high. If you have a 40-60 PSI warm idle, make sure you're not peaking above 90 PSI at red line. Most 4g63s with idle pressures that high normally do.

[@spencermillsful]

Jafromobile, do you have a similar method to prep the mating surface on the head for a composite gasket? I'd rather not take anything to a machine shop right now.

[@Jafromobile]

+spencermillsful Yes. The razor blade scraping method I've demonstrated in several other videos. If the head is in spec and you're using a composite gasket, then you can get by without machine work. I don't know which specific video it is, but it's early in the blueprint series, and I also did it in the "blueprint everything" video for the Hyundai.

[@spencermillsful]

+Jafromobile awesome, thanks for the reply. Looking forward to more content!

[@kbcustomz]

the block is non turbo no oil squirters, will oil port mod #1 and #2 and the cooled O.F.H be enough to bring oil pressure back down to a normal level?

[@Jafromobile]

I HOPE SO! We're going to find out pretty soon...

[@kbcustomz]

yea i thought after it will be a trial and error period, at the least it will help though

[@JoeWrenches]

Good, informative video! Nice job!

[@willmaddox1986]

Wooh keep them coming

[@mrworm1]

Jafro what air compressor do you have? I remember you saying you have a 33 gallon tank. But, doesn't that not leave enough CFM for some of the "tool cfm requirements"?

[@Jafromobile]

Jonathan Campbell It's a 45 gallon. It's a raging pile of crap, though. I went for the cheapest air compressor with the highest possible recovery CFM available. It's a twin-piston oiled compressor that has a 14.8 CFM recovery rate. It's the loudest, most obnoxious electric compressor I've ever heard, and I'm ready for something different. I have to give it credit... it lasted 6 years, polished engines, compressor housings, ported a cylinder head, 2 turbos, 3 manifolds and supported me through every project I've ever done on this channel, but it's now toast. One cylinder has failed. It's cheap $350 chinese crap, and I'm hunting for its replacement. Likely going for Ingersoll-Rand in the 60-80 gallon range.

[@mrworm1]

If I had about $500 to spend on an air compressor what would you recommend?

[@Jafromobile]

When it comes to quality, if you want a lifetime investment for the $500... go to your local welder's supply shop and find out what air compressor rebuild kits they carry. They'll have popular kits for compressors that businesses use because they're reliable workhorses. They get used more, so the kits in stock are the ones you're going to find in your area. Step 2. Hit craigslist and search for the model numbers of the compressors they have rebuild kits for. My harbor freight compressor is broken, and I can't buy gasket or rebuild kits because they constantly change their compressor lineup, and finding a chinese rebuild kit is an impossibility. So I would say, used 90's era Ingersoll-Rand 250 gallon is the best-case scenario. Craftsman makes good compressors, and they'd be good long-term investments as long as Sears manages to at least maintain an online presence after our economy destroys the brick and mortar store fronts. At least you can count on both of those being made in the USA and having service parts available.

[@mrworm1]

I hadn't even thought about rebuilding it. That's a good point. I've had to rebuild so many compressors I'm ashamed I didn't think of it before. The Ingersoll-Rand brand name (even used) has a premium price tag that is a bit too high for my range. But, husky or craftsman were what I was looking at. I think a good craftsman is probably my best bet. Thanks again for the advice. =)

[@DJDevon3]

***** Local businesses aren't likely to use a $500 compressor. Good advice but sounds a bit unrealistic. Most businesses I've seen use professional grade 60-80 gallon tanks with high HP motors.

[@nissy92]

Is there any way you could help me out with my 4G63 front case? I purchased doesn't look quite right to me when it's on the case. If you want I can email or text you a picture

[@5084204]

What is the name of this polishing disc? "embr...." 0:07

[@Jafromobile]

It's a 3M Bristle Disc. Once you search it, all of your recommended ads in your web pages will be that 3M Bristle Disc... FOREVER. Try it. It's amusing.

[@adamkryd5668]

Thanks I liked the work

[@taksuyama]

I hope it's ok to post a question like this here, but I'm working on balance shaft elimination (partly because the silence shaft drive gear has caused some troubles since the last rebuild). When I took the front cover off, I came across this hole in the oil gallery (shown with a red arrow); www.dropbox.com/s/x18a0xlt884tzw2/IMG_20140203_153516.jpg Is this hole normal or abnormal? if abnormal, can I fix it with JB weld? Thanks! This is a 4G64 block

[@AutomotiveAnonymous]

Nothing unusual there... No need to clean it up. That's a dead gallery. Not an actual oil passage. Part of the crankcase and unless something's loose and capable of falling off of it, poses no risk to your oil system. If anything, you could make that hole bigger, and it still wouldn't make a difference. Mitsubishi engines are full of flash and strange casting anomalies. There were no humans involved with de-burring the rough cast. Only robots. Apparently, the only quality controlled part of them are the machined portions. Those are fantastic. But no two head or block castings I've run across were the same.

[@taksuyama]

AutomotiveAnonymous Thank you. That sounds reassuring :)

[@Jafromobile]

Tak Suyama What he said... ^^ :)

[@michaeldaniel8736]

When hot tanking what do you use

[@Jafromobile]

A lot of people use Varsol or the equivalent. I don't actually know what my machine shop uses? I think its an environmentally friendly version of Varsol if that's even possible? When I clean an engine at home, I do it the "DIY Parts Washer" video way. In that case, it's Mineral Spirits.

[@XSTAYUPX]

Always Good Work +++

[@terryramsingh472]

Jafro How do you clean the turbo of contamination after a bearing failure?

[@Jafromobile]

I've used mineral spirits with a siphon feed blow gun, and then penetrating oil to re-lubricate it until it's put back to use. It's pretty much the wrong way to do it... but the last turbo that went through that mess is still performing fantastically on my Elantra right now. Years later. There's no way to KNOW for sure that all the chunks are gone without breaking it down and cleaning everything, but I suppose like in my case there's always luck...

[@terryramsingh472]

Think that might be a good video to add. I've seen you clean everything on that 4G63. Keep up the wonderful work. I tune in to your channel every day!!!!

[@Jafromobile]

I just tried to find it for you, I swear I remember shooting it, but can't find it in any of these videos. I thought it was Hyundai Assembly 6... but the turbos are already clean. There's a video somewhere with a turbo pile, that's when I did it. The NEXT video chronologically is actually the siphon feed blow gun parts washer video. lol. You're almost there for the setup I described. You'll never hear me speak. The video does all the talking.

[@Liamv4696]

Are those valve cover gaskets $77 in the US, they are here in Australia, no matter who you buy them from :( I had to buy one yesterday lol

[@Jafromobile]

Yes. The price I find is $71. It's crazy. I think the FelPro equivalent is around $50.

[@Liamv4696]

I'm not sure why theyre so expensive, makes no sense. Another story, I rang SuperCheap Auto and AutoPro (car accessories shops here in Australia) and they wanted 40$ for the exhaust manifold gasket, and 70$ for the intake manifold gasket. Got them for $11 each from a local Head repair shop bahahaha

[@chiefwhampahoe6567]

***** maybe the gaskets are cheaply made but at rockauto.com there like 10 bucks depending on what company you get it from.

[@laserspeeddemon]

YOU'RE IN VIRGINIA!!!!!

[@estrelladelnorte1308]

nice vid!

[@ED37097]

Shit i dont know enough to pull my engine out and do that. :,(

[@tonkatoytruck]

I think some wrench turners love the smell of RTV a little TOO much!!!!

[@Jafromobile]

That was a LOT of RTV. 4 different colors of it. Layers upon layers of repairs with it. It was nice to see it go.

[@EvlEgle]

But proto lysandre has mechanical bees