Grivel Master Pro Belay Devise Review

[@michaelbutler1557]

You are a born climber Ryan. Your videos are important. Keep up the good work and keep our sport alive.

[@mitchholm8642]

I believe the "dinosaur nose" is easier to sling and release the plate in alpine and ice climbing applications than a small hole full of ice, and i doubt it was designed to increase friction on rappel. I find Grivel products to be well thought out and uniquley innovated for their intended applications.

[@ryantilley9063]

That's great that you feel that way and everyone has their own opinions, but when I was talking about the dinosaur nose adding friction I was just going off of Grivel's video that shows how to use the devise here's the link: kzbin.info/www/bejne/sGqolWaBrLaVY9k You do make a good point about the nose being easier to sling than a tiny hole too, thanks for adding that! I'd also like to add that I don't think everything Grivel makes is super gimmicky, things like their crampons, ice axe's, and ice screws are all really good things that they make. It's just every now and again they seem to release a new piece of equipment that has some gimmicky twist on it, and it's usually a quickdraw or a carabiner that seems to be different just for the sake of being different, and they advertise the new gadget around that one modification they made.

[@parharn]

I think if you are using your right to brake, if you use the left side of the device to put the rope in, then the rope will not pop out when kinking the rope behind dyno nose! Have you tried it?

[@kcwliew]

Probably to get around the patents that the other companies have?

[@michaelbutler1557]

Hi. Your videos are great but I disagree with you about the Grivel products. I am an Australian mountaineer and alpinist with 51 years experience. I find Grivel products to be of very high quality and well thought out. I have stopped buying Black Diamond products here because of supply chain problems snd other issues. Keep up the good work. You have a very good channel snd your videos are very detailed.

[@michaelbutler1557]

P.S. The ‘nose’ is an additional friction braking mechanism, particularly usual with double (twin ropes).

[@xmnemonic]

Grivel master pro is rated for ropes 7.3-11 mm. This is a huge range, the ATC only goes down to 8.9 mm for single rope strands. These days people are regularly climbing with sub-9 mm alpine ropes so having one belay device that can do it all is appealing. Otherwise you'd have to get an alpine ATC or microjul for smaller ropes.

[@ryantilley9063]

I would be very hesitant to use this device with a rope that small, there would not be a whole lot of friction. Before the BD ATC guide came out we used the usual ATC for our twin and half ropes. I would still recommend using a different device that's made for smaller ropes.

[@xmnemonic]

@@ryantilley9063 that's the point of the nose / whale tail, to add more friction. have you tested this? that's the intended purpose of the device.

[@ryantilley9063]

The rope pops out of the whale tail all the time, and I would argue that because of how far the nose is from the device it was made with more thicker ropes (8.5 and up) in mind. If you have a skinny half rope you need a tighter bend to add friction, and if the rope has a chance of posing out of the nose you would lose all your extra friction anyway. That's why I would still go to a smaller device. You could add extra friction by adding a second locker too, that would be the better way to rappelling thinner ropes with the wider slots of the device.

[@michaelbutler1557]

I believe that the Grivel Scream is best suited for smaller diameter ropes. Check them out. Cheers.

[@yonickyg9719]

great device, have been using since it was introduced. perfect for ice climbing i called it a T, btw. and those holes also help shed ice/snow/mud etc... and help it cool off a bit 100% inovation. 0% blah blah... Grivel

[@michaelbutler1557]

I agree. Great device.

[@paulmitchell5349]

I prefer this Grivel device to a Grigri for single rope belaying a bolted pitch, where the leader may be hanging off bolts a lot. With a single rope it is easy to put a twist loop in the rope and wrap it around the prongs . Then you can take your hands off the rope for a rest. I am a little surprised that you hadn't noticed this possibility.

[@michaelbutler1557]

I agree.

[@GizmosBushEscapes]

Interesting as always. cheers Ryan 👍

[@sdriza]

Horns

[@paulmitchell5349]

.....or PRONGS.