Gun lube is a waste of your money.

[@605783]

40 years ago we used motor oil and a paint brush to keep our M60's running. High heat & moving parts... Thats what motor oil was made for.

[@DinoNucci]

You do not shoot a car. A gun is not a water cooled, dual filtered, internal combustion engine, and it doesn't matter that your cousin's uncle says it's great. Stop spreading misinformation within a community you should be seeking to help!

[@jjw5165]

Mobil 1 synthetic is newer than clp, rem oil hops ect proven crap.

[@DinoNucci]

@@jjw5165 I have a Daewoo and a case of New Coke to sell you. Rube.

[@Thes4LT]

@@DinoNucci How much is SafariLand paying you?

[@DinoNucci]

@@Thes4LT I'm rich

[@walatsway7092]

Your right on all counts ! Long time ago when these synthetics came out, I would at the dealer pick up all the so-called empty bottles of Mobil 1 I went home and drained all the bottles to make almost a full quart ! So it was all free! If it works on car engines it will work on all guns !Your great to bring this up 🇺🇸

[@redwhiteblue7831]

Great info... How many miles until each oil change???

[@mroneno]

RedWhite&Blue 78 amsoil look it up

[@Dominus4776]

Probably a few thousand rounds unless ur shooting in horrible conditions

[@gassannasser28]

RedWhite&Blue 78 😑😑

[@turtlegaming3829]

Bout 86 commies per application

[@jguerrero0311]

everytime you use them.

[@knighttrider]

If Mobil1 works in a car engine, in your gun thats light work

[@nicholaosskiadas9083]

No, it is very hard work in your gun! Contrarily to your car's engine, there is oxygen and humidity on every surfice of your gun.

[@AndToTheRepublic4WhichItStands]

​@@nicholaosskiadas9083And also acids from our finger prints that may not be neutralized by the engine oil the same way gun lubricants do.

[@lanajacknichols8397]

I don’t have a can of gun oil sit right in front of me or a quart of motor oil, but can somebody tell me what are the ingredients on the can versus the ingredients on the bottle what is in gun oil that is not in motor oil when you compare lists of ingredients?

[@mcpoogle9058]

@@nicholaosskiadas9083There’s the same amount of oxygen and humidity in an engine haha

[@harisinam4078]

​@@AndToTheRepublic4WhichItStands engine oil has detergents that wash very strong buffer systems. Chemistry class maybbe....😂😂😂

[@glencrosby6443]

Guns are machines. Think about that for a minute. All gun products are overpriced versions of existing lube and cleaning products. And if you just add "tactical" to the description, you'll get even more ripped off. I've been into guns for 60 yrs and have never used brand name cleaning or lubrication for my guns. Anything that will clean and lube machinery will clean and lube a gun. Lead and copper removal is another issue, but there is no reason to pay for the gun hype. I just make sure it is compatible with the polymer stuff out there.

[@Shorty_Lickens]

something I've slowly learned over the years since taking up shooting as a hobby, the vast majority of gun accessories are unnecessary and some are outright dangerous. Its just a free market trying to take advantage of consumer ignorance to make a buck. I dont mind that. You as the customer should try to inform yourself and make smarter purchases.

[@riskydabs3710]

I’m in a dry desert environment I switch to Castile Soap to remove Dust dirt and grease flawlessly from the gun , STP High Temp Bearing Grease or 10w-30 Mobil 1 or Valvoline oil

[@danielgrove7782]

Yep.. modern synthetics are made to emulate natural compounds..i have a great old book... Fortunes in formulas

[@danielgrove7782]

​@@riskydabs3710some grease is soap based

[@thelastminuteman7513]

Well the thing to bare in mind is firearms tend to have different finishes then a lot of other machines. Nitride, parkerized, anodized, bluing, cerakot. Certain automotive solvents penatrants and lubes are usually meant for unfished parts like drivetrain internals and can have a different effects or reactions on the finish of a gun. Just know what's in the product you are using.

[@DokterKnow]

My favorite lube is -- Rest-Your-Camera_Hand-On-A-Stationary-Surface.

[@DinoNucci]

Hahahaha +1

[@jdc8352]

Lololo

[@uncletio0428]

Lol...awesome!

[@jimbob3574]

LMAO

[@zmann324]

.

[@skyym3629]

You are smart for using Mobil 1 synthetic oil and the Lucas grease. The big gun companies don't want you to know the information that you just told everyone. God Bless bro.

[@legion2k988]

@@leglamps I think it's that you get it cheaper this way. Say another company buys that from the maker 'debranded' and they repackage it in smaller 'gun friendly sizes' and calls it something else.. They stand to lose money if you cut past them and get the original. Sometimes the chemistry is the same. It's just the branding.. Next time you're in the isle with all the pain meds at the store. Look at all the excedrin bottles.. One for back pain, one for migraines.. one regular.. If you look at the ingredients.. they are all the same. Exactly the same.. Just want to give you a label that speaks to what you want it to be. Take mobile 1 and put in in a another bottle, call it grandpa Legions gun magic and sell it for 3 times as much.

[@duMaurier15]

@@leglamps you are right! Other than Remington but I think they make shavers too.. but obviously the guy meant the "big gun cleaning and lubricant companies".

[@Backwoods_2A]

You're dumb and he's not right he's dumb

[@DinoNucci]

@@Backwoods_2A I'm clapping for you

[@DinoNucci]

Do NOT follow this. You do not shoot a car. A gun is not a water cooled, dual filtered, internal combustion engine, and it doesn't matter that your cousin's uncle says it's great. Stop spreading misinformation within a community you should be seeking to help!

[@gggromay]

I dont know why you are surprised, engines work at drastically more extreme loads and force then guns, if an oil works in an engine for an entire year or longer a gun is a piece of cake

[@hellsk100]

What extreme load are you talking about? A 9mm has 34000 PSI. An engine probably has no more than 2000.

[@offshoresavage6608]

@@hellsk100 34,000 psi in the chamber at ignition. That isn’t the pressure on load bearing surfaces.

[@darrengarcia4937]

@@offshoresavage6608 and motor oil is constantly filtered as is the air, fuel, and coolant that is kept in a sealed block. A gun isnt sealed is it.

[@offshoresavage6608]

@@darrengarcia4937 but we don’t have those extra variables in combustion ignition weapons. So the same could be said for any lubricant used in firearms.

[@peanutrbuckle9123]

@@darrengarcia4937 why do you think you have to clean your guns often if you’re using them? Dumbass

[@richardhodgkinson6908]

just use motor oil an save the money for ammo I've been doing it for decades

[@jasonmunguia3219]

Motor oil works just has good ? I guess it could sure .

[@dufus2273]

that's all we used to have in my younger years. a liberal coat of oil prevents rust.

[@duMaurier15]

@Robert Johnson since Nazi Germany..

[@JustMe-999a]

A $15 bottle of gun lube should last years. You're not saving much. I shoot over 25,000 rounds a year and a bottle easily lasts a year.

[@assfacetheclown29]

JustMe9 I shoot over 10million rounds a year and a $5 quart of oil works fine

[@gavingaming123]

👍totally agree. I’ve been using Lucas Red n Tacky for break action shotguns, semiautomatic shotguns and bolt lugs on my rifles for about ten years. We have gun shops selling tiny jars of “hinge pin jelly” for the equivalent of $10 !! My tube of Lucas grease cost £8 and I’ve filled many old camera film containers and given them to fellow shooters and still have half a tube left. There’s a lot of marketing BS, good on you for highlighting excellent alternatives. All the best from Scotland 🏴󠁧󠁢󠁳󠁣󠁴󠁿. GD

[@madewithscraps]

Red n Tacky in cold weather is super stiff!

[@stevetrevino5346]

The guy that did my gun licensing class recommended motoroil, also. He swore by it and encouraged it. He was a 30 plus year retired police officer so I took the suggestion to heart. Good to hear you follow up his advice. Good video, good info.

[@thefoodcan]

The old he was a officer let's blindly trust what he says

[@murkyturkey5238]

@@thefoodcan who has 30yrs of experience, you’d be dumb not to at least listen

[@thefoodcan]

@@murkyturkey5238 Just because you do something for 30 years does mean its the right way. I meet alot of older people who spout bull shit when it comes to cars. Age does not mean there always right.....

[@steverussell6642]

He's a cop so he knows everything rite.

[@germanshepherd13]

Related to many cops, trust me they are not all gun experts nor gun enthusiasts.

[@stubeast4031]

I save the skin from KFC chicken to rub on gun parts. Only problem is that I get hungry every time I go to the range. There is a scent of fried chicken in the air once I've run about a hundred rounds through my rifle.

[@CoasterCoat]

Lmao

[@Mikey-ym6ok]

Lol i used my leatherman with greasy hands from fried chicken, next day it was allll dickered up. Guess it was the salt.

[@marthafisk4504]

Omg! That's fucking funny😂😂

[@youtube.commentator]

You just don't get that same spicy scent as you do when you apply popeyes

[@sethc758]

I use my swamp ass sweat... they way if anyone gives me any shit my gun is already accustom to it, resulting in myself having the full advantage.

[@1Stonerock]

I'm with you 100%. Exact same experience with the Mobile One. When I saw Toyota putting Mobile One into the $475,000 V10 Lexus LFA, the thing is revving at insane RPM's.... Just think it through, yes, an AR is a controlled explosion, but so is an internal (combustion) engine, and it definitely takes more abuse over a couple hundred THOUSAND miles.

[@jesseburton655]

I use high temp red grease in the summer for AK platforms, and graphite in the winter. For AR platform's I use non detergent 5-w30 motor oil.

[@dirtmcgirt7125]

I'm using a mixture of bearing grease (the red stuff) and synthetic mobil 1 (5w30), more oil than grease, for my AR15 .

[@losi8ightyew]

*laughs in 17,000 RPM redline sportbike* but you are correct lol.

[@MrJbedo]

​@@dirtmcgirt7125yup same I do about 14oz of grease to 1qt of oil usually 5w30 because I already got it for my car.

[@terrywaters6186]

You have to drink a shot every time he says 'things of that nature'.

[@dtb-bm8kx]

andddddddd im gone 3 minutes into the video.

[@BSB.521]

Drink a shot of motor oil? I wonder if that'll help my joints? 🤔

[@Armygroupb]

🤣🤣

[@TheSixthChakraDocta]

@@BSB.521 I thought he was gone say that lol

[@michaelbattistamusic]

😂

[@Al-Fiallos]

I think you are spot on with your analysis. Logically, a modern engine is a precision mechanical device. So is a pistol. The only circumstance where I would not use a petroleum product on a pistol would be on a black powder firearm simply because black powder and petroleum interact badly with each other. I really liked your presentation and I, for one, will not be purchasing anymore "speciality" firearm lubricants and cleaners. Thanks.

[@bongobrandy6297]

So long as you don't use these on food prep tools, automotive lubricants work . I used a marine grade grease on my bicycle cables for years. My sister couldn't grasp that white lithium spray grease was good for her expensive house exterior door hinges. She didn't see door hinges on the list of applications on the lable. Weirdos are among us. Beware!

[@rebeccamarcus6631]

I just recently switched back to Ballistol from using high temp wheel bearing grease and motor oil. I ran it for years, stuff works great on guns, cannot go wrong with automotive products, but I just love the smell of Ballistol in the morning and love how easy it is to keep clean. It just runs cleaner and is more simple, less toxic, and sticks in the metal like glue. Plus I never stopped using Ballistol on my household things.

[@YT-User1013]

I tried Mobile 1 high heat grease and it jacked up the functioning of my AK. Switching back to MIL-SPEC Break-Free CLP. Best CLP? Hoppe’s 9 vs Break Free CLP, Slip 2000, Ballistol, Frog Lube, Extreme Force, Clenzoil. Project Farm kzbin.info/www/bejne/nJrFg5itodOXgsk

[@sweetdrahthaar7951]

@@YT-User1013 I enjoy the project farm channel and I did watch that video on lubes the other day. Shocking to see how much wear occurred with some of the most popular products.

[@williamphillip9749]

@@sweetdrahthaar7951 project farm never actually tested any real weapons and all the CLP’s his test was stupid AF

[@nunya1328]

​@williamphillip9749 someone is triggered by the facts 😂

[@penedrador]

You could even eat ballistol oil. While you should not, it's not toxic. They even have a special version for lubing food production stuff

[@rangerup1804]

I agree with you on this subject. I was in the ARMY as well and they used to give us the CLP all the time. In my personal Colt AR15 I was having sticky bolt issues till I used the full synthetic motor oil and the red grease on my bolt and receiver lugs. Works fine and it lasts a long time and is so much cheaper in the long run.

[@WBatte1]

This video reminds me of the Fire Clean gun oil controversy . Fire Clean came on the market and many rapidly developed a sizable following . It wasn't cheap , it sold for about $7 per fl.oz. Then it was discovered to be 99% canola oil . Basically just Wesson oil with scent agents added to give it a gun oil smell . This caused a lot of consumer outrage about their marketing veggie oil for these prices after all you could buy a 2 quart bottle Wesson oil for less than $4 . But for all the complaints of price gouging nobody ever claimed that the product didn't work . It still worked as well as it did when everyone believed it to be the greatest thing since sliced bread . People were pissed that they got taken in by marketing hype . 99% of the time oil is oil and it doesn't matter what oil you use . It should be pointed out however that some oil traps dirt more than others . This is why regular cleaning is important .

[@ralphcarkhuff7876]

L.E. Batte i

[@AshGreen359]

Canola oil is just rapeseed oil chemically altered to be "edible". Rapeseed oil has been used in machines for ages.

[@emerald640]

I've used 90 wt gear oil for sizing and auto transmission fluid for gun for forty years.

[@narcissistinjurygiver2932]

cheap brake cleaner cleans the best. cheap eng oil really works well. then consider vacuum bag sealing your guns. like with a food vac. no air. no rust.

[@0megamanX]

I'm so confused. Picked up my first handgun from my local FFL, an old timer who has been gunsmithing for many years and when I asked him about using synthetic motor oil as lubricant he just looked at me and dismissively said "Don't do that." I felt kind of stupid for asking. (Keep in mind he does not sell gun oil, so it's not like he was just saying that to sell me something.)

[@Name-ps9fx]

E Some people learn things quickly...other people it takes a lifetime. Just because he’s an “old timer” doesn’t guarantee that his opinion is good, just like being young doesn’t guarantee a foolish opinion.

[@DinoNucci]

@@Name-ps9fx correct!

[@DinoNucci]

Do NOT follow this. You do not shoot a car. A gun is not a water cooled, dual filtered, internal combustion engine, and it doesn't matter that your cousin's uncle says it's great. Make the small investment on a gun grease and oil and you'll be good for decades.

[@thewerepyreking]

@@DinoNucci are gun oils better for high temperature or what? An oil filter isn't necessary on a light coat that will be cleaned away manually, so I don't see the problem with synthetic oils

[@robertthomas5906]

Do you know what the army manual says for M1 rifle? Use grease. Axle grease will do. If you're in really cold weather you'll need a light grease or it'll freeze. You want grease because it'll stick to the area. Oil will run away. That's what it does, it flows. A little dab will do ya. Anything that I see a wear pattern on I grease. Tacky red, synthetic black stuff, or 70 year old axle grease. It all works. I have some 70+ year old cup grease. You'll need to clean it out and re-grease it because it will dry out over time and get hard. You don't want it to let you down when you need it. The 70 year old stuff seems to stay soft.

[@vevenaneathna]

been using vegitable oil lol. not a good idea but it still works as long as you dont use one that has lanolic acid in it which varnishes over time (linseed oil is like 70%, oilive oil is like 10%). dumb story but it goes to show its not too important with frequent use and cleaning. switched to what glock does, copper based anti seize where the most movement is like the channel the rails move in under a slide, and regular mobile 1 for the rest. i think high mileage has more surfactants in it, which is good if you have blow-by in a worn engine and a big oil pan and filter system for them to flocculate and get taken out of suspension in, but in a firearm there is really none such thing so I think the regular mobile 1 with a more sane amount of surfactant is better. there will be significantly more carbon build up from a firearm compared to an engine, and too much surfactant can actually be a bad thing. interestingly the carbon buildup acts as a catalyst to polymerize/varnish the lanolic acids in cooking oil. synthetic oils have less variation in the oil chain lengths of their continuants so they usually hold up to heat better but i would expect them to have more thinning out under heat. thats what the antiseize is for. if you wanted to go all out you could use powdered teflon (ptfe), which i believe was part of the secret ingreadent in the og glock tenifer finish. someone correct me if im wrong

[@craigroberts6439]

I’ve switched to Mobil 1 myself….works way better than any gun lube I’ve used. I’ve done some experimenting and noticed that actual gun oils seem to evaporate in about a week or so. Mobil 1 does not evaporate. I’m using 5W-30. Initial cleaning after the range is Shooter Lube solvent then the Mobil 1.

[@92Gomes]

hello. Do you still use synthetic oil? Have you had any problems with polymer weapons? thanks.

[@danielgrove7782]

@@craigroberts6439 we used mobil 1 on blow mold that used florine gas to make a boundary layer in plastic bottles m1 gelled less than other oils so yeah it has to be reasonable to use on guns

[@danielgrove7782]

@@92Gomes one reason i like steel. I dont know what happens with long term contact

[@marcush4741]

I use motor oil. BUT it's worth noting, most motor oils don't have anti-rust features. They still absorb oxygen. In a vehicle that's being turned on every couple days and running at temperature, there's no need. Snowmobile motor oil, however, almost always has anto rust additives. I use amsoil 0w40 snowmobile oil. It lets me run it all through an adirondack winter without freezing, stays lubricated during the summer, AND keeps rust away.

[@marcush4741]

I didn't do this for cost. I did it because it's hit -30 multiple years in a row in the mountains just outside my home town. -20f during the day isn't unheard of here. Virtually every firearms lubricant on the market freezes or becomes abrasive at those temperatures. 0w stays pumpable down to -40, and is good for cold cranking at -31. Both of these Temps are below anything my home town has ever been recorded at. w40 allows me to have something slightly thicker, needing applications during storage less frequently. And with the rust prevention additives, it lets me safely store it long term without fear my rifle will rust out (humidity ranges here A LOT. We HAVE to have dehumidifying features in our safes, or store our rifles as though the humidity is 100%. I do both. With amsoil 0w40 snowmobile oil, I can store my rifle without worry, and take it out on any day or night of the year and know it will operate. Vs something like froglube... where if it's a -20 day, my rifle is GOING to freeze up if I don't take the time to decrease it and run it dry.

[@joetentpeg8530]

50/50 kerosene and transmission fluid to clean, 100% trans fluid to preserve/lube. Cheap, effective. From a nationally famous gunsmith from the '40s through the '70s.

[@sicilientwarkan7109]

I believe it , but Kerosene stinks really and is not good to breathe ..

[@mark198081]

joe tentpeg what transmission oil should I use to lubricate my AR

[@brianb1998]

@@mark198081 walmart brand atf

[@sidviscous5959]

@@sicilientwarkan7109 But have you smelled Hoppe's? That stuff is reeky . . .

[@steverussell6642]

Ed's red

[@EnsoLLC]

Yea I used oil before on my AR, it works great. However the smell it makes stinks more than the gunpowder and create smokes when the gun heats up. Thats why I use frog lube now for the minty fresh smell, especially on the glock.

[@MrIkesimba]

Best advise ever. You're not going to find a harsher, more demanding environment for a lubricant than a wheel bearing or the combustion chamber of an engine. No AR will ever require more lubrication than motor oil/high temp bearing grease can provide.

[@megastick9324]

Oil IN the combustion chamber of an engine means the rings or valve guide seals are shot OR it’s a two stroke or diesel. Oil lubricates outside the combustion chamber. That pretty blue smoke and fouled plugs is the result of oil IN the combustion chamber…

[@davidjaybrooks6616]

Great video! Thank you! I've been felling like some kind of idiot for years because I can never seem to remember to buy commercial gun lube. I've been using a high heat axel grease and syntech 10/40 engine oil for years with no problems to ANY of my weapons. I like to clean them all, grease them up and put them in the safe. When I take them out; there is never any bleeding what-so-ever!!! Thanks again for validating my silliness!!! =D

[@concernedpatriot.2221]

Another trick. When cleaning your gun use disc brake cleaning from auto parts store. It works better then gun scrubber at half the price. You just have to apply lube again after cleaning.

[@charlesguelcher2520]

I like to mix them all together and make my own mystery oil, then I marvel at it... haha

[@aaron.from.winchester6744]

I really do that! Lol. Just put them all on there and hope one of them works.

[@roddecker1900]

Original marvel mystery oil?

[@terrywalters1766]

Kinda playing with a mix myself. Mobil 1 mostly, a little atf, little Lucas oil stabilizer and Honda Chain Moly.

[@TheSixthChakraDocta]

@@aaron.from.winchester6744 LMAOOOOO

[@-NOGOODRACING-]

I use brake clean to clean my firearms. I use Mobil 1 or Costco Kirkland or Amazon oil to lube them, and engine oil don’t burn off while my AR500 steel plate target puncher gets hot. Awesome firearm information video.

[@92Gomes]

hello. Do you still use synthetic oil? Have you had any problems with polymer weapons? thanks.

[@srspammenot]

Starting fluid cleaned up an OLD WELL USED 10-22 IN ABOUT 60 SECONDS it had NEVER been cleaned. One or two squirts. A wipe. And one rinse spray to shake out the corners inside the receiver. Lucas red and tacky does ANYTHING except tigger pins etc but molybdenum disulfide grease is my favorite instant trigger sear improvement. It bonds to the metal.

[@m.loughlin1915]

Starter fluid? Essentially 120 octane Gasoline with a sizeable percentage of benzene, xylene and other sweet smelling poisons. I have aspired to be many things in my life, but a human torch with liver cancer ain't one of them!! I'll just stick with Diesel for cleaning, and 30w Penzoil for lube!!

[@antouab221]

This is the ultimate tip when it comes to lubes, lol, cheaper than dirt itself and yet more functional and effective than most of the specialty lubes, already tested it on most of my firearms, mobil is awesome for AR 10 and the grease is awesome for all my pistols (except 1911s which prefer mobile synthetic 10w-30 ) This guy sure knows whats he talking about. Liked and subscribed with pleasure

[@bamasux253]

Walmart's own brand of synthetic motor oil and synthetic light grease are all the lubes one needs, and then one just needs an inexpensive bore cleaner like Hoppe's, and an inexpensive general purpose cleaner/degreaser that is non-toxic and bio-degradeable. These four products will cover every single gun you own!

[@brandondunnegan3890]

Motor oil works great. But I use the graphite or Teflon based lubes. Oil attracts dirt. So if your in a desert or dusty field your weapon is gonna get dirty quick

[@shadowfoxcorp]

I been using the same 1 quart of, penzoil 10 w 40 I bought from a gas station in Nevada back in 2005.

[@JefesYoutube]

I switched to Mobil 1 10 years ago and haven't looked back. No issues. All my guns run w/o issue but I also buy quality equipment. Usually. I've even experimented using it on the stock of two Rossi lever actions, my exceptions to "quality equipment" statement. Just to see if what 'oil' is needed to keep a wood stock from drying out and I liked the deep maple color. So far so good. In my initial hypothesis on the wood stock and 'motor' oil I referenced the use of creosote on railroad ties. They last forever under extreme heavy duty use and weather exposure. KISS.

[@92Gomes]

hello. Do you still use synthetic oil? Have you had any problems with polymer weapons? thanks.

[@JefesYoutube]

Yes, still using Mobile 1 synthetics and no issues w/ polymer. I use it on my CCW Hellcat. I have thousands of rounds through the Hellcat w/ zero function issues. @@92Gomes

[@ElCalin]

Great video, I'll never clean my rifle again from now on I'll take it to Jiffy lube for oil change😄

[@Outdoors-ty8hp]

There’s a lot of engineers, gunsmiths, and mechanics in the comment section. And I’m an astronaut

[@LightTackleEthusiast]

Dempsey Miller Im a Warlock

[@dickblackbeard5752]

I’m a cocksman

[@jasonantonation4395]

Mud N Beer finish wizard from outer space, right here meow 🐱

[@brodywankenobi66]

I am the walrus

[@bigredone1030]

Yes because we all know universities are a myth and it is impossible to go there.

[@unitcharles689]

Been using it for a while. Friends freak out when I recommend motor oil. I do use ballistol on the exterior of my rifle. It tends to stick longer. I use synthetic grease on hight fiction zones with a q-tip or toothpick, such as rails. But i generally give the bolt a wipe down with motor oil. But ballistol does break down carbon as a cleaner. So grease ballistol and motor oil is what I use.

[@larrymedina9737]

I literally use red n tacky on every gun I have, never had a problem

[@MIgunnut]

I have had an ak go full auto in the winter with grease.

[@BroJKen]

I've been using 0W-20 synthetic on my (very cheap) AR for about 3 years now, about 1200 rounds during that time, and maybe 2500 total, not a single failure to fire or extraction error. It's my favorite tip to tell owners, saves a whole lot of money if you clean your weapon PROPERLY and REGULARLY!

[@92Gomes]

hello. Do you still use synthetic oil? Have you had any problems with polymer weapons? thanks.

[@BroJKen]

@@92Gomes My Glock and my FN509 both have a polymer frame and haven't had an issue yet, I don't think it will be a problem with the molecules having a chemical reaction with other plastics, however everything I run is either 9mm or 5.56, so maybe the oil is too viscous to be used on smaller rounds; I just haven't tested it yet

[@92Gomes]

@@BroJKen Thank you very much for your information. Here in Brazil it is difficult to obtain reliable information on this subject and it is also VERY expensive to test weapons. We pay an absurd amount for weapons and ammunition (more than 70% tax on the price). Therefore, it is important to seek reliable and cheaper information. Corrosion X is often used here. Big hug!

[@heaththompson3834]

How many rounds in between oil changes?

[@Alex_Mitchell]

Every 6 months or 6,000 rounds.

[@alexpaic2984]

Lmao

[@ratagris21]

Full synthetic is 10k rounds or 1x a year.

[@silverhorder1969]

Full synthetic prevents dry starts too!

[@Muzzleblast-1911]

I agree with you 100%. People think because it's out of the norm or it doesn't say it's for guns that it's not as good or its wrong.

[@davids11131113]

I’ve been using Mobil 1 as fun lube for years and even get it for free my friend is a mechanic and I get ‘empty’ bottles and drain them upside down and put it in a bottle with an extending tube with a red cap.

[@chachi1970]

since watching this video a couple of years ago, I have been using a 50/50 mixture of marvel and synthetic motor oil on all "50 plus" firearms in my collection. I buy a quart of each and mix them together. my friends have tried it and love it. very slick, doesn't burn off, stays put and smells good. lasts a loooong time and cheap.

[@yaxelcastaneda5993]

Only reason gun oil exists is because there are people who will buy it because someone said its formulated for the gun but in reality is a spin of of motor oil with some other dilutants and such and a label stuck to the bottle but at the end it all works

[@rkba4923]

Then make yourself up some Ed's Red Bore Solvent, equal parts of Dexron II/III/Mercon ATF, Odorless Mineral Spirits and Heater Kerosene (not out of ground tank!). Add an equal part of Acetone if you need to clean plastic residue out of shotguns, etc. Costs about 1/10th of the least expensive commercial bore cleaner. Also try Hi Temp Wheel Bearing grease for AR/AKs, semi-auto handguns: if it slides, grease it; if it rolls, oil it. You do NOT need the High Mileage formula unless your gun has seals and gaskets and stuff. Rem Oil is great for Bolt Actions, revolvers and trigger/spring assemblies etc. You can't beat motor oil for lube on most semi-auto firearms. FWIW. (Soak you BCG overnight in the Ed's Red and I bet after you clean it, you'll switch to Ed's Red as your primary solvent/cleaner!)

[@wyattchinn1123]

You will spend LOTS more on hospital bills when using toxic concoctions such as the ones you describe. ACETONE???? You HAVE to be kidding; I hope you don't have any small children.

[@MegaBait1616]

" SCRUBBING BUBBLES " for a cleaner, nothing beats it. spray your BCG and see what happens to the carbon. then lube with what ever you want.

[@nojustno1216]

Wyatt Chinn You must be a liberal and a bad parent as well. Ever heard of keeping chemicals out of the reach of children???? 🤔

[@rkba4923]

@ Thomas Chaperone I've never used solely ATF so can't comment. I can say, however, that I've never had a problem with any of my semi auto pistols, rifles including AR15s (nor M16s when in military) using it in the formula provided. fwiw

[@rkba4923]

@ Wyatt This "concoction" was formulated by a chemist and adopted by the U.S. Army and meets all their specifications for CLP*. It is also sold commercially by Brownells. Learn to do research B4 spouting off nonsense. Thank you. * It's listed as: Frankford Arsenal Nitro Solvent #18 in Hatcher’s Notebook (Julian Hatcher was the Chief of the Small Arms Division in the Ordnance Department and the Assistant Commandant of the Ordnance School for the US ARMY).

[@Andrew_NJ]

High Mileage oil though is unnecessary since it includes an additive pack for engine seals to help prevent them from shrinking and becoming brittle that would not have any use on a firearm.

[@updownandallaround]

He's right. I have been using olive oil for a while now and it works like magic on your knives and guns. Same holds true for canola oil. I've heard great things about Mobile 1 full synthetic as well. All are readily available and cheap. I may have to try the Lucas red grease... thanks for the video.

[@TerminalM193]

Grease is the way to go

[@michaelhennegan9637]

Olive and canola oil will go rancid on a stored gun.

[@johndonovan5521]

I've used a 50/50 mix of synthetic ATF and motor oil for 20yrs or more in my 1911, Glocks, shotgun and AK's.

[@flyingbeaver57]

In the Canadian arctic, I've found that 0-W-20 Synthetic (Shell sell it; probably other brands also) is far better than "gun oil" of any kind. It still pours at -50, where 10-W-30 or 15-W-40 don't. For grease, I learned early on from old-timers that Snowmobile grease works really well. It doesn't stiffen up, and a thin smear goes a long way. Moly grease is also good. Both of these greases, and the 0-20 oil are a couple of dollars more than "regular" stuff, but well worth it since they don't seize up in the cold.

[@Boxxthepaperchaser1]

I use synthetic also, and for gun cleaner good ol brake or carb cleaner. Same thing. It gets the carbon out it cleans, dry it then oil it.. can't go wrong and cheap. I'm not paying for those fancy products when the cheaper ones do the same and you have it longer.. save a buck why not!

[@heliace]

I own a Cadillac CTS and do my own oil changes. Before I became a family man, I owned a Corvette and did my own oil changes. Guess what I used to lube and protect my fire arms? Mobil 1. The dregs that were left in the cans got dumped in to my gun lube can. It has been been working great on all of my guns.

[@germanshepherd13]

Its not like any of these gun lube products will put one in the poor house. People spend hundreds, thousands on guns and then you have people saying stop wasting money on gun specific products. I am on my same can of breakfree from 2002 ,little goes a long way.

[@igonzalez7814]

I use the drippings from my empty bottles of Mobil 1 from my oil changes. I haven't bought gun lube in years. Stuff works great.

[@thelastminuteman7513]

One other thing I wouldn't use "High Mileage" engine oils personally. High Mileage has additives thay are meant to soak into an engines seals amd swell them up to prevent leaks. It may also seep into any rubberized, polymer or even wood components.

[@lanajacknichols8397]

Wood and rubber both benefit from oil to preserve them and protect them from extreme temperature weather conditions that’s why you put oil on wood furniture and rubber seals and bushings if you don’t use all wood, it will dry out swell and split If you don’t put oil on rubber seals, they will dry rot and become brittle That way to prevent things from happening to rubber and wood

[@careykirk5352]

And after I just bought a $10 can of CLR! This vid makes perfect sense. Looks like you have a convert.

[@delmarrey9077]

I use a machinery oil called “Way Oil”. It lubricants forever and a moisture repellant (water based coolants). Been using way oil on the slides of lathes & mills in machine shops for 50 years and it works for guns just as well. It stands up to the heat of hot metal chips too. You just can’t buy it in small amounts. A 5 gallon bucket is common place. If you know someone in a machine shop then you can acquire a quart or so. I also use the way oil on my reloading equipment. The ram of the shell sizer is 30 YO and still tight. Just wipe it down often and reapply with an oil gun often.

[@joemitchem5707]

Way oil is very similar to chain saw bar oil.

[@rbrtck]

I get it--guns normally don't require any specialized lubricants--and generally I agree. However, this doesn't mean that all oils are the same. People are saying to use synthetic oils for a reason, and fortunately there are ones that, being intended for automobiles, are affordable--you don't have to use these, as petroleum/mineral oils are adequate for firearms, but synthetics are better if you don't mind paying a bit more for them. Having said that, personally I do use a gun lube, Weapon Shield, but the thing is that I use it for everything around the house that involves metal-to-metal contact, not just guns. For one thing, it is, by far, the best lube for door hinges that stubbornly insist on squeaking. I had to reapply other oils (including some fancy ones I wasted my money on) every six months or so, but with a single application of Weapon Shield these hinges have all stopped squeaking for the past 8 years! Weapon Shield is different because in addition to a synthetic base oil it contains chlorinated paraffins that fill in and smooth the surface of the metal during use. This effect is well known and proven in the industry, but in the past has come at the cost of corrosion from the generation of hydrochloric acid, which is why chlorinated paraffins have only been used for special applications that require them. The innovation here is that Weapon Shield contains other additives that suppress and/or neutralize these negative effects chemically, offering the tangible benefits of chlorination without the traditional drawbacks. I don't look at it as a gun lube specifically, just as a particularly effective lube for metal-to-metal contact. It's expensive, to be sure, but I use so little of it for any purpose that I can ignore the extra cost (which isn't outrageous--it's priced much like other specialty lubes that don't seem to offer anything more for their cost). For guns specifically, one advantage is that they keep working in a well-lubricated manner for a long time even if, under heavy use, the oil burns off, and in dusty/sandy environments they can be run practically dry, which attracts far less crud. While I don't really NEED anything that good for any of my purposes, I do prefer to use the best when I can. For guns, just about any lube that reasonably stays put will work, and motor oils (even regular petroleum oils) tend to work great for guns, but like I said there are differences and some lubes are better than others. My favorite is Weapon Shield, not because it's supposedly specialized for guns, but because it has given me tangible benefits in certain applications, and I choose to also use it in my guns because I don't need a lot of it. That said, and I repeat, under typical conditions, pretty much any oil is adequate for lubing firearms, and motor oils are cheap and work better than many specialized lubes. I'm not trying to sell anything you don't need (I have no financial interest in it anyway), I'm just trying to describe some differences between products from my own experience.

[@kenherbst9460]

One thing a lot of people forget to do is remove all the grease from their handguns before winter. Especially if you keep a handgun inside a safe in your vehicle. If you don't, the grease can seize the action of your gun - especially revolvers. Simply replace it with a coat of very light gun oil. You might be able to get away with grease in the South during the winter, but you won't in most other places.

[@genedotson1576]

Synthetic oil is made to lube at high temps like you get from rapid firing a semi auto. Also I use Brake Clean non-chlornated engine and brake cleaner. Same thing as gun scrubber but cheaper.

[@jonathanm1854]

Yup! Supertech brake cleaner to spray my pistols and ar's down. supertech 10w30 full syn. to lube them up. Guns require very little lube anyways. Look up glock's man. on lubing. like 3 drops lol

[@dw7094]

In my day we used LSA, and when we ran out of it we used HDO-30 which is the Army version of SAE 30 motor oil. Both lubricants enabled the carbon to wipe off.

[@dw1773]

I've been using Mobil 1 0w-40 and Lucas Red and Tacky as my gun lube for many years now. A thin coat of Red and Tacky goes a long way. I shoot year round and only outdoors. Day time temps range from 5F-110F in my area.

[@williamanderson7294]

D W ha ha ha awesome

[@blackrifle3742]

an primers aren't toxic?

[@grimdavis58]

Red and tacky for the rails.

[@TheNightFather666]

So would you say you feel confident with it in cold weather then. Just curious. I live in Canada and it can get cold and I don’t want failures. Thanks

[@tikkidaddy]

Red n Tacky wont freeze. I apply a light coat on the heavy friction surfaces. A little goes a long way and it doesn't affect EEZOX performance. You shoot, clean with EEZOX, a tiny amount of RNT, done. I used to use Slick 50 one grease. I put that stuff in a freezer on a chunk of paper towel for a week, no freeze. The EEZOX takes care of the rest, and you use it SPARINGLY, so a quart will last years. If the gun is stupid dirty, strip it all out with BC GUNSCRUBBER and start over.

[@bamahi7142]

My trans oil identifies as motor oil, so I'm good with it.

[@captnunchuk1444]

It's doing what it was designed to do...protect metal surfaces from wear and tear associated with friction. Bravo.

[@alecpitts6843]

Current oil change expectation is 7500 - 10000 miles 55mph is the avg speed limit in the US for highways So we can assume, you're running the vehicle at about 55mph for those 7500-10000 miles The avg car runs about 2000-3000 rpm at around 60mph, so we'll just go with 2000rpm for 55mph. To be clear that's revolutions per minute and miles per hour. So with some quick math 7500 miles at 55mph is 136 hours of driving (plus some change) 136hrs x 60 gives 8160 minutes 8160 minutes x 2000rpm = 16,300,000 Typically you get one cylinder fire for every two revolutions. So 16,300,000 revolutions in one oil change is equal to 8,150,000 cylinder fires, per cylinder. At the current cost of 9mm you're spending $1,874,500 before a vehicle manufacturer would suggest oiling your gun again. At the rate a typical firearm owner cleans and oils, Motor oil is absolutely the most cost effective and potentially the most effective lube, period.

[@siciliancapeverde4646]

Great video brotha. I use high temperature wheel bearing grease, And I always have a quart or two of Mobil 1 full synthetic to use as well, and my guns run great. If these lubrications are good enough to withstand the heat from vehicles, and still protect the moving components, then they will do the same for guns easily. I’m a firearms instructor, so my guns get a lot of use, and with just these two with me, I don’t have issues.

[@92Gomes]

hello. Do you still use synthetic oil? Have you had any problems with polymer weapons? thanks.

[@jimcastillo8950]

I have read that our soldiers in WWII would use motor oil or axle grease from jeeps or trucks that were broken down or blown up on the side of the road.

[@BigChiefTomTom53]

High temp wheel bearing grease from WalMart! It's like $4, but it works amazing...

[@deasttn]

For lubrication or for cleaning?

[@lennywallace540]

Yes!!! GREASE!!! I use Amsoil synthetic red grease on all my pistols and bolt action deer rifle... operation soooo smooth, and like you said it STAYS PUT. I used to race snocross, the pivot points in the suspension take a horrific beating, you'd have to see the top pros up close to realize the beating they actually take. And all those suspension points use GREASE. I just use cheap remoil on the outside of my guns too, that's all. Great vid 👍🏻👍🏻

[@Lehmann108]

No lubricant "treats" metal. A lubricant forms a temporary film on the metal. It doesn't bond to or change the surface of the metal.

[@chrishenning8829]

With 1 exception Molybdenum disulfide. Its usually in the form of a thick oil or grease. It actually bonds to the surface of the metal, but is messy and is slightly toxic.

[@Joe_Friday]

@@chrishenning8829 Speaking of... I've tried a handful of oils and greases over the years. My favorites so far are from Slip 2000. Their EWL, EWL 30 weight and their EWG grease. I also recently ordered some tungsten disulfide powders that I'm going to mix into the Slip 2000 EWL 30. I also recently ordered some oil from Archoil called AR4400 that already has tungsten disulfide infused in it.

[@toddlane4086]

Lol, I thought I was the only one that ever used automotive oil on guns. When Slick 50 first came out, ( the original) I used some in a vehicle. Stood the bottle upside down and caught the rest in a sample bottle I had. Used it on an MAK 90 (post ban AK). I put 3000 plus rounds thru it with little to no visual wear. Shit worked great. Used on hunting rifles until it was gone. Mobil 1 was the alternate after.

[@matthewbeaver5026]

Motor oil has detergents that are not necessary for a weapon, just use mineral spirits to clean and mineral oil to lubricate even cheaper than oil....check out gunblue40

[@timthepoolman3313]

Those detergents make it super easy to wipe the carbon off without solvent

[@purpledc1]

You are 100% correct. Im actually surprised someone would say that you shouldn't use engine oil because an engine has an oil filter. Yeah that is totally accurate but that is because unlike a firearm you aren't going to field strip your engine and clean the crud out of it in between drives. But the fact that mobil1 has been proven to be one of if not thee best engine oil in a engine that is subjected to even greater stresses than a firearm I would say its pretty safe to assume it could be superior. People forget that many of the super high tech lubes out there for rifles are just repurposed lubricants from other industries. Lucas oil is a good example of a company with primarily automotive experience that bled into firearms. And many of the big names in special lubricants simply saw the performance advantages in one industry and said, well lets try it in a gun. And its actually genius. Because nothing probably puts a smile on a guys face like taking a $20 gallon of engine additive and dividing it up among 500-1000 1 oz. bottles and charging almost as much for it as they did for the gallon. All because the majority of gun owners actually want to believe that guns are more mystical than they really are.

[@movementz1478]

I remember reading in a Suzuki servive manual for a 150hp+ liter bike that the only recomended lube for the chain was motor oil. That speaks volumes. Thanks for the great video. Continue to help people see throught the marketing and to consider materials. Some people cant see the woods because of to many trees. The effects of marketing.

[@thebusterdog6358]

I've got a 50+ year old can of Sears Gun oil that I've used for years. It works fine and I don't have any rust or corrosion problems. The can looks just like a typical 3 and 1 oil can. I wipe down the exterior with Hoppe's lubricating gun wipes. The key to gun storage is to never store guns in the original plastic cases they came in or rifles in padded zip up cases. Guns need air circulation.

[@terrywaters6186]

Anything will lube adequately, more important for most of us is rust prevention. I'm not sure motor oil is the best product to protect a firearm long term.

[@macdaddy8483]

Motor oil has about 100 times better rust prevention than gun lube. Most gun oil is watered down shit. Never saw the inside of an engine rust, at least engines with oil in it.

[@terrywaters6186]

@@macdaddy8483 Leave that engine off for long enough and see what happens. Somewhere on KZbin someone did a test of gun oils anti rust abilities and I think he included Mobil One motor oil. There was a big difference among those tested and two gun oils Exocet and Militech stood out if I recall. Is motor oil good enough for most our needs? Probably.

[@terrywaters6186]

@@macdaddy8483 kzbin.info/www/bejne/q4ClZph5h8p0h7s

[@macdaddy8483]

@@terrywaters6186 kzbin.info/www/bejne/eqa3kqKwbLdrgdE

[@terrywaters6186]

@@macdaddy8483 Yeah, I watched that last night actually. I'm convinced. I live on the ocean so I think I'll do my own test just for fun. I wish more testers had included motor oil in their tests. WD-40 does quite well too. Ballistol and Rem Oil did very bad.

[@thelastminuteman7513]

I've used a mix of both firearms products and automotive for years. I'll say this I prefer the firearms specific stuff because the smell tends to not be as strong. I was using Schaffers bearing grease on my M1A and Mini-14 but hated that my rifle smells like my work place so I went with Slip2000 EWG just because it's lighter and doesn't smell like a blown out axle bearing when I shoot. I do recommend White Lithium frease for AR buffers. Quiets the spring down and runs slick and doesn't need to be cleaned and reapplied that often depending on how much you shoot. Also for air and CO2 guns I use the Cummins Biolube 22 that comes with DEF filter kits. A full tube comes with each filter yet has enough lube to do 4 or 5 filter seals and my company does all DEF filters in the fleet annually at the same time every year so I end up wit 10-15 tubes of the stuff. It's meant for rubber seals and o-rings which is why I use it for BB, airsoft and paintball guns.

What the hell does "treats the metal" really mean? All those products on your gun dealers shelf designed to clean and lube your gun are there because of MARKETING! Unless you take those products to a specialized laboratory that has the equipment and expertise to test lubricants you're purchase is just a shot in the dark. That old saying of believing half of what your see and none of what your hear applies to just about everything you buy.

[@jrh5811]

Horace Hogsnort designed to clean your wallet.

[@haroldschrader3198]

The light bulb just went on over my head It all makes sense we switched over to full synthetic in both my car and my truck and after watching your video I'll get a quart for my firearms it ALL just make's sense thank you for opening this ol' mans eyes

[@Thin447Line]

I use motor oil and automotive wheel bearing grease for heavier applications on my guns. They run great and never have a problem. Think about it. Driving your car for 30 minutes is more wear and tear than a lifetime of shooting. Your car is a machine and so is your gun. CLP and "gun oil" are adequate, but ounce-for-ounce cost? Do the math! It's a no-brainer.

[@rhiannoncarder7780]

Tony Reusse

[@sandozman6085]

In winter i cut my bearing grease with a bit of oil. Summer bearing grease straight. It sticks to where up put it. Even at -4 f straight bearing grease worked when I tested an ar. Ar sat for eight hrs in the cold.

[@toddk9044]

I like Lucas oil additive. it's thick but lighter than grease and it's simple petroleum. It's less harmful to our health but everything now days to the state of Commifornia causes cancer and other reproductive harm! :)

[@lesliekendall9902]

If mobil1 is good enough for NASCAR then it's good enough for AR.

[@hacksskillsmods8916]

I've been using full synthetic motor oil for several years and it is great! Unlike petroleum motor oil it is actually slick. I did use petroleum motor oil for a while, it falls short in two areas: It''s heat rang is not high enough for guns that are being ran hard and when it gets hot it smells like a car burning oil. Full synthetic has never gotten hot enough to have a smell at all no matte how hard I run them. I ran a 75 round drum through an AK-47 as fast as I could pull the trigger lubed only with synthetic motor oil. No problems, no smell. I have recently started using white lithium grease on some parts like slide rails (recommended by Jim Fuller). Again, no problems.

[@dakotaslim]

I love the motor oil idea. I've been using alternative lube on my AK for years (Royal Purple & Lucas White Grease). Works great and the price per application is difficult to ascertain because it's so absurdly low. I've spent (probably) thousands of dollars over the years on a couple of ounces of gun specific magic oil only to come to the conclusion that it is no better than many other bulk lubes at 1/10 the price. If things go sideways you're going to benefit from simplification. Buy uncomplicated weapons that have easily available spare parts, easily obtainable ammo and maintain them with common lubes and cleaners. If it gets bad and you can't get your wine and cheese gun potions you're going to be using 30W and ATF anyway. And if everything stays copacetic you'll be able to afford a lot more ammo. :)

[@randallshulsen69]

Lol the good old AK requires only a bit of lube anyway, any machine oil works fine.

[@MrPigeonnn]

The thing about the filters is that the oil is contained inside the engine and isn't going anywhere. It's being reused and small pieces of metal break off. A gun however, isn't containing the oil so it can burn off. And engines aren't cleaned a the same frequency as guns are. This is also all marketing - it says its for one thing so people assume its for this one thing _only_. So they end up buying 5 different products for 5 different tools when the product does the same thing. The only difference is their label. Lastly, that red and white container says "multi purpose."

[@motoman7445]

Handguns need very little lubrication. Most people over lube their guns.

[@christopherfinn5425]

Very true. I've seen it first hand when you saturate your bolt and the firing pin gets covered in CLP and your rifle or pistol won't fire.

[@TheRandomname951]

Learn that when using my glock.

[@mackenziegray2090]

No such thing as "over lubricant". You don't run your car low on oil. Your gun has small fast moving parts.

[@motoman7445]

@@mackenziegray2090 Agree to disagree. You can absolutely over lube a gun.

[@sidneyeaston6927]

Motor oil is better than any gun lube product. Down side is that it contains its own detergent elements that will eventually break down the oil allowing it to emulsify with water, no problem if you re apply every few months when storing guns that are not in use. In dry dusty areas use lighter oil as it will not trap larger particles of grit. sewing machine oil is good for dry dusty conditions but has to be removed and re applied at shorter intervals.

[@asleepinthealley]

Been using ATF for years. It's thin enough to get everywhere I want it and not gel up in the colder months.

[@TruthlessHero86]

asleepinthealley I don’t want the ATF anywhere near my guns.

[@Joe_Friday]

@@TruthlessHero86 why not?

[@jamescrowe7892]

A very cogent and to the point presentation. Metal on metal moving parts need lubrication. Nobody questions that. Hell, if bacon fat or lard works for you, use it. I have, however, taken to using a 3 parts Mobil 1 full synthetic 10W 30 motor oil to 1 part Mobil full synthetic transmission fluid as a bore cleaner. If you mix it the easy way, as I did, 3 +1 quarts, it will last damn near forever. By volume motor oil is cheaper than many of the gun lube products on the market today. Maybe we are getting snookered like one of the other commenters said.

[@AGENT-tq1nm]

I once used motor oil on my thighs while jogging just to test the mileage... I saw improvement ..

[@tarheelrealist8935]

High temperature lithium ball bearing grease works extremely well too...I use it on my Glocks, AKs, M1As and SCAR H. The can (about the size of a can of peanuts) will last years because it takes ti-ti amounts. I too have been a long-time user of Mobil 1 Synthetic Oil...this type of bonds to the metal at a molecular level. What people don't realize is most motor oils have '''anti-carbon'' detergents that helps fight carbon build up. Does motor oil prevent carbon build-up? No...but it makes it easier to remove carbon build-up.

[@diversify210]

Hoppes #9 and what ever oil I have left from changing the oil on my cars. Anything that lubricates metal on metal parts and doesn't contain water will work. No need for all those expensive dedicated gun cleaning and lube products.

[@craigdoriety9798]

I like bacon grease. Smells great when hot and everyone knows bacon makes everything awsome.

[@Joe_Friday]

I've got an unopened bottle of Fireclean that's been sitting on my shelf for years. Isn't that the same thing?

[@1EVILZ06]

Cover your ears. Because you not gonna want to hear this. I use 3in1 oil on my firearms. 😂

[@AK-47ISTHEWAY]

I did, too, but then I switched over to grease as I found it works better and stays put. It doesn't run off like oil, and it doesn't evaporate.

[@DJImfamuos1408]

I'm going to start using mobile one and that Lucius lub. Makes so much sense!!!!

[@southernplinker9380]

Guys motor oil will gum up with time. Try gun grease, specifically Cherry Balmz Black Rifle. It works exceptionally well.

[@Joe_Friday]

I read reviews on them last week. I've tried a handful of oils and greases over the years. My favorites so far are from Slip 2000. Their EWL, EWL 30 weight and their EWG grease. I also recently ordered some tungsten disulfide powders that I'm going to mix into the Slip 2000 EWL 30. I also recently ordered some oil from Archoil called AR4400 that already has tungsten disulfide infused in it.

[@tulemike6627]

used powdered grafite for years.does not atract dust.

[@Castor586]

I've heard stories of middle eastern fighters cleaning their old Soviet AK's with used motor oil before wiping them down really good. Lubricant is lubricant whether you like it or not, in my opinion. The only area I get picky is if the lubricant adversely affects plastics or polymers. Petroleum based oils will dry out and cause cracking in most plastics, so a poly-safe lubricant like silicon (if required) is highly desirable.

[@2shay337]

My Grand-dad was 3nd generation of hand making his hunting rifles/shotguns. I can't recall him having cans of gun cleaning oils in his shop. I did see many cans of motor oil, like Penzoil, Quaker etc. but then again, they had several motors they had to use it for: tractor, cherry picker, Jeep, 2 cars, and fishing boat. And I know he also maintained the motors for lathe, and tools in the shop for working/repairing all engines and motors on the farm. So in the early-mid 1800's-1900's what did soldiers, hunters ...use to clean and preserve their guns? By most accounts, sperm oil (from the head cavity of a sperm whale) was the best gun lubricant, if and when available. Second choice was other whale oil, although an 1878 U.S. Army manual warned that whale oil could become “gummy and hard on exposure to the air.” Neat’s-foot oil (boiled from the shinbones and feet of cattle) was also recommended, for oiling both guns and gun leather. An 1862 Pennsylvania scientific journal noted that “armor oil [mineral oil]…is intended especially for gun-locks.” Even a temporary dab of olive oil, castor oil, lard, tallow, other animal fat or wagon wheel grease was better than no lubricant at all. I can't say definitively that he never ever bought commercial gun cleaners/oils but I don't think they were during my great and great, great Grand-dads eras. And I used linseed oil/mineral oil (sometimes) to finish off the rifle stocks he made for his rifles/pistol grips. The linseed oil was for wood not metal gun parts, so I think they used motor oil later on in the 1900's.