Microwave Dead? 🔥 Blowing Fuses? Check the Door Switch!

[@ApacheRanch]

Here are the parts you may need on Amazon: * Slow Burn Fuse: amzn.to/3pWbV2l * Door Switches (pack of 4) - amzn.to/3pfs981 * Channellock Pick Set - amzn.to/3xILbr2 * Liquid Electrical Tape - amzn.to/3lqHhyg * Multimeter: amzn.to/3pR8HNA * Fast Burn Fuse: amzn.to/2JSdOha * Thermal Fuse: amzn.to/3bbngHG * Thermostat: amzn.to/2X9QNt4 * General Fuse Search: amzn.to/357MEKz Check out my other Microwave repair video with more detail about blown fuses! kzbin.info/www/bejne/mHy7YXx4ptuDa8U If it helps you out, please like and subscribe!

[@davidswingle]

Absolutely spot on. Cost me $17 and I’ll have parts to do it 3 more times. Cheesy design for such an expensive oven. Thanks!

[@ApacheRanch]

Agreed!!

[@wyeung168]

Thanks for the video! Almost threw away my $1500 microwave and saved me $2000 from almost buying a replacement! Wouldn't have known it would only cost $6 for the replacement fuse!

[@ApacheRanch]

Glad it helped!!

[@PolBoller]

Thanks for posting. My Bosch HMC80252UC also failed after only 5 years!!! The problem was on the Left side switch which fried and jammed. This happened because of the WEAK design of the plastic holder which holds down the switch with a thin "finger" that will eventually bend due to obvious torque (planned obsolescence?). It would have cost BOSCH nothing to design this properly so the switch would NEVER EVER move. My solution was to add a shim to ensure the replacement switch is SOLIDLY in place & will NEVER move! (even gluing it in would be better). NOTE that the left side switch is NC and the right is NO.

[@ApacheRanch]

Great points thanks for sharing!

[@sweetiepienumber1]

"Get off my lawn!" Do not go poking your finger in a microwave. When it's unplugged there is still a good size capacitor that is very hazardous unless you de-energize it (that's not just unplugging the unit). Find out where the large capacitors r and stay away. Don't be in a damp area with your feet. The question might be why is the fuse blowing? Yes, replacing a fuse may fix it, unless there are smaller capacitor problems, or the fan has problems, or your circuit isn't rated for as many as you are trying to pull, maybe there is a loose wire but in a junction box, or a faulty breaker, and yes maybe the door switch, etc. Do not run a microwave empty. Be careful and do your homework. Learn how to use a multimeter for continuity, etc. And use insulated tools and gloves if you dont have the proper experience. Videos without proper instruction mean that you must do more research by professional resources. Former contractor and inspector. Thanks for the video it is helpful, but please remember that there are people out here that need safety information.

[@ApacheRanch]

Great points!

[@macutan]

Thanks for all your points, extremely important. How would you de-energize the capacitor safely?

[@braxtonthomas6194]

@@sweetiepienumber1 safety first ALWAYS!!!!!

[@bernardbeaudry6284]

Thank you! A really good, inexpensive & easy fix. My microwave is a year or 2 newer but the repair was spot on… I Usedto believe Bosch was quality! Not worth the price or the service any more….

[@mhee2b]

Thanks!

[@ApacheRanch]

Welcome! I appreciate your generous gift!

[@RCheck185]

Exactly what I was looking for!!! Great video

[@ApacheRanch]

Glad it helped!!

[@sleepingwiththedog]

Ok, replaced my 3 micro switches in my whirlpool WMH53520CS-2 and must of interchanged them wrong because microwave blows main fuse. How do I ascertain which micro switch goes into each position now that they are installed wrong? Normally open or Normally closed, no way to know unless I can locate wiring schematics? Or locate the same unit somewhere else to check whether which one is open or closed in the door mechanism?

[@helifynoe9930]

My old stainless steel oven was manufactured way back in June 2004. Yesterday, after there was a momentary power failure in my area, I had to re-set the clock time, but only mere minutes later the oven blew a fuse when I used it to heat food. Fortunately my 18 year old oven is now back to working 100% after replacing the fuse. When I purchased the oven, I got it for just over $40, due to it being a display model, or so they said. In truth, only half of the control keys were working. I fixed that in just a few minutes by cleaning the contacts and the connector where the keyboard plugs into the main control board. Other than that, over the years I have replaced two door micro-switches, one thermal fuse, the main fuse, and I have repaired the turntable motor with a drop of glue. All replacement parts just mentioned were taken from a dead microwave oven that someone had tossed to the curb for disposal. Thus the total repair cost over those 18 years, was roughly a massive $0.00. Sadly though, I did just spend $1.47, to replace the main fuse today. LOL.

[@ApacheRanch]

Great story! Always good to have spare parts! Thanks for your comment!

[@helifynoe9930]

@@ApacheRanch Thanks. I tried to link to a photo of my 18 year old oven, but YT gets picky with photos. Anyhow, you could have seen my oven sitting on top of my home made silencer. Beforehand, the wooden counter top, and the section below it, had become somewhat of a noisy speaker box that amplified the humming noise of the oven. But now, it is so quite that all you hear is the oven fan.

[@helifynoe6956]

@@ApacheRanch Just for a laugh, in one of my other YT channels, that's this channel, I posted pictures of my 18 year old oven in the banner section. LOL Anyhow, the oven sits on top of a sheet of glass which has nicely rounded edges, and underneath the glass there are 4 orange kitchen sponges on the right hand side where all the weight is, and two pieces of thin soft black rubber on the left-hand side. And so this is what prevents any noise from the oven from passing on down to the wooden counter.

[@blueneon8911]

Hello, my microwave oven is not working. I checked and found that the switch on the right side has slipped off. I want to try this method to fix it. Is there a connection for the switch I should buy? (My English is not very good, I don't know how to search for this switch) Looking forward to your reply. Thank you very much

[@ILoveDartmouth]

My microwave is almost identical but doesn't have that glass fuse. I replaced the white fuse and got a 20 amp outlet installed. I plugged it in and it worked for my electrician and then I came home from work and the unit was off. The white fuse seems fine and I replaced that and that doesn't seem to be the issue. Things work in the outlet, so it's not the new outlet. Should I replace the door clicky things even if they are not showing any signs of brownness/burntness on the wiring caps/enclosures on either side. Maybe this is the issue but it hasn't been bad so far?

[@ApacheRanch]

Not sure. If you can identify that the door opening is the cause then yes I would swap out those switches. I would try to recreate the failure with door opening. I was able to do this but just opening/closing the door. It would blow the fuse quickly. Are you able to test fuses using a multimeter? You may want to do that for the white fuses in your unit to see which one is blown. I have another video on this same microwave that shows you how to test the fuses. I wish you the best!

[@ILoveDartmouth]

@@ApacheRanch Thank you very much! :) I'll have to check out the other video. It's currently not working at all. Last time your video helped me fix it as I just needed to change that white fuse but now hat isn't working. Thanks again for your help! And your videos! 😊

[@mulesmarinair]

Did you have to check if both switches were aligned (as in, both set to “off” so new one isn’t accidentally out of sync with old one in other side)? Or is it nature or microswitch that it defaults to a particular setting and is only activated when pressed. Hope this question comes across ok. Thank you.

[@ApacheRanch]

You don’t have check. They are spring loaded switches and only activate if pressed upon. So they are in synch no matter what - based on the arms from each door pressing on them. Thanks for your question.

[@kqxx]

Could this apply to kitchen aid

[@ApacheRanch]

Absolutely. They all the same mechanisms.

[@SeidelRanch]

Good catch. That looks like an expensive microwave which probably equals expensive to have someone work on it.

[@ApacheRanch]

Yes - and such an easy fix really. Worth opening anything up like this and take a casual look for "hot spots" or anything slightly burnt. Many of the parts used are common and easy to buy/replace yourself. Thanks for your comment.

[@robtrelford9182]

Thanks for info 😊

[@TheMinnow101]

Are both those thermal fuses you show in the video the slo burn type? I see you’ve got both slo and fast burn fuses in your parts list.

[@ApacheRanch]

Both of those depicted in this video are slow burn. Thanks for your comment.

[@Ruckusism]

Could a faulty switch cause microwave to not power on ?

[@ApacheRanch]

@@Ruckusism yes, absolutely

[@Ruckusism]

​@@ApacheRanchokay thanks guess I'll be replacing the switches. The door switch has been acting up occasionally for some time now. It Flipped the breaker the other night but didn't blow the fuse.

[@ApacheRanch]

@Ruckusism I’ve seen most all issues with dead microwaves are related to those door switches. There are multiple on the door so look close.

[@Ruckusism]

@@ApacheRanch one of the top switches failed so I just replaced the set. I Just finished putting everything back together and it's running fine now. I suggest wearing gloves because that sheet metal is sharp and cut side of my tumb.

[@ApacheRanch]

Glad you figured it out!!

[@Dave-ch6qp]

I replaced the door switch, but my microwave is not heating the food, and turntable is not rotating. Could it be the diode might be bad?

[@ApacheRanch]

I'm not sure what the diode does or where it is located! Sorry I could not be of more help. If the device has power, but not functional, I would check the circuit boards for any blown capacitors or burn marks and go from there. Thanks for your comment.

[@Dave-ch6qp]

@@ApacheRanch I fixed it. I did replace the control board, but the problem was with wiring connection. It was a wrong connection (reversed)

[@ApacheRanch]

Glad you figured it out!!!

[@edgee3805]

you forgot to tell people that there open or closed switches

[@sleepingwiththedog]

Thats exactly my issue or problem, installed 3 and didn't even take picture or even check for which switch was normally open or closed, just installed them willy nilly, now main fuse blows, so one or more is not correct for its position.